TASTE of Contents

4 INTRODUCTION 68 NORTH BY NORTH-WEST A round-up of the best eating 5 WELCOME TO to be found in the tropical AUSTRALIA Top End and Broome.

6 THE DISHES THAT 72 TEN WONDERFUL DEFINE AUSTRALIAN WINERY CELLAR DINING NOW DOOR EXPERIENCES The dishes making waves around Australia’s cellar doors offer the country right now, from the something for every wine lover. fine-diner to the café and back again. Here’s a handful of the best.

26 THE FLAVOUR OF SYDNEY 80 COAST TO COAST  The Sydney restaurant scene has Australia offers some amazing never been more fertile. Here’s regional food experiences. Here a snapshot of the most notable are some of our favourites – from recent openings. vineyard to tropical beach.

36 CAFÉS FOR DAYS 88 RUNNING LATE  For straight up caffeination and Burn the midnight oil at Melbourne’s smashing sustenance, too, nowhere best late-night bars and diners. rivals the cafés of Australia’s capitals.

42 CLASS ACTS Our pick of the finest dining Australia has to offer.

64 THE SEAFOOD OF AUSTRALIA A quick guide to the tastiest of Australian marine life – and where to enjoy it.

COVER Attica’s whipped emu egg and sugarbag (page 21). Photography Colin Page Introduction Welcome to Australia

taking it too seriously (but taking as much Hello world. We hope you brought an Australia is a place that excels at many things and that includes pleasure in the moment as you can), and appetite because there’s lot to see and plenty food and wine. So it’s not surprising that the honour of hosting about sharing it with friends. And if it can of good stuff we’d like you to taste. The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2017 has been bestowed on be done outside, preferably near a body of Dining in Australia has never been more the country. It’s a testament to our people, produce and place that water (and, better yet, without shoes), then dynamic, and whether you’ve come from the together they create an exceptional food and wine scene not found all the better. other side of the world for your first visit, anywhere else in the world. What you’ll find in these pages is just or you’re just crossing town to get to know We’re lucky to live in a country where sunshine, clean air and a the beginning. Join us in this exploration a corner of your own neighbourhood in a bit vast landscape deliver a rich array of fresh produce that underpins of Australian flavour: we hope you’ll be back more detail, there’s never been a better time our world-class culinary offering. Not to mention a spectacular for seconds. to be a gourmet traveller on these shores. backdrop to match. It’s not hard to eat well in Australia today We’re fortunate to also have so many talented individuals in Happy dining, (and it’s even easier to find a good coffee or Australia, from farmers and fishermen to providores, artisans, cooks, chefs and winemakers something else interesting to who love our produce and nurture our industry. Pat Nourse drink), but there’s wisdom in the idea that And we’re spoilt to live in a country that brings together so many different cuisines, Managing Editor knowledge enhances pleasure, so in these shared by people of diverse nationalities who have chosen to make Australia their home. Australian Gourmet Traveller pages we’ve gathered together some of the Complementing the multicultural flavours are the bush ingredients that have long been most exciting and fun dining experiences used by Indigenous Australians but, in more recent times, have become incorporated the Gourmet Traveller team has enjoyed into contemporary dishes. around the country of late. These attributes are what we are encouraging others to experience for themselves as part What’s the taste of Australia exactly? It’s of our Restaurant Australia campaign, which we launched in 2014. It’s all about shining not always easy to pin down, yet you know an international light on Australia’s food and wine. it when you see it. It’s about making it look Inside this booklet you will get a taste of the very best Australia has to offer, and easy (especially when it’s not), about not I encourage you to explore beyond these pages and immerse yourself in the food and wine experiences we are so very proud of. Please join us in celebrating Australia’s oustanding food and wine culture. We look forward to welcoming you to Restaurant Australia.

John O’Sullivan Managing Director Tourism Australia

5 EIGHT-HOUR LAMB SHOULDER, CUMULUS INC It’s so simple: whole lamb shoulder The dishes that define cooked low and slow until it’s magicked into a crust of dark gold and the Australian dining now surrenders on favourable terms. Consider What are the flavours that will take Australia into the next half-century? it less of a dish, more of a patriotic duty. Here are the dishes making waves right now around the country, from Cumulus Inc, 45 Flinders La, Melbourne, the fine-diner to the café and back again, plus notes from GT wine editor Max Vic, (03) 9650 1445 AVOCADO WITH CITRUS, TOAST AND LOCAL KELP Allen on what we’re drinking on the side. , THE KETTLE BLACK There are now around 1.2 billion versions of avocado on toast across the globe, but this combination gets it right by playing it straight and simple. Half a perfectly ripe avocado (stone out, skin on) arrives with sourdough toast, a wedge of , and salt made with dehydrated kelp. It’s DIY made perfect with carefully sourced, top-notch ingredients. The Kettle Black, 50 Albert Rd, South Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9088 0721

WHAT WE’RE DRINKING Imagine stashing a case of booze in a time capsule that won’t be opened for another TOO MANY ITALIANS 50 years – a taster that tells a story of what AND ONLY ONE ASIAN, NORA STRACCIATELLA, we’re drinking right here, right now. What Sarin Rojanametin’s witty FERMENTED FENNEL, would you put in the box? On the following tribute to Carlton’s Italian food CHAMOMILE OIL, EMBLA culture might look like pesto Stracciatella – otherwise known pages are some of the drinks I’d choose.

PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA (EMBLA), MARCEL AUCAR (CUMULUS INC, (CUMULUS AUCAR JULIAN KINGMA (EMBLA), MARCEL PHOTOGRAPHY REFTEL (NORA) & MARTIN REFTEL EVANS JESSICA KETTLE BLACK), pasta, but the pasta is actually as the super-creamy heart of any green papaya, and the pesto self-respecting burrata – combines a mix of roasted cashew nuts, with fermented fennel and the PROSECCO Tasmanian sparkling might well sator beans and pieces of aromatic, herbaceous note of be the quality pinnacle of fizzy wine production school prawn tossed with chamomile oil for a light and in Australia (and a good late-disgorged example sorrel oil and fermented garlic powder. It’s a clever trick that delicate left-of-centre winner. really deserves to be in the line-up, too), but the bub- File it under “shouldn’t work, succeeds on the strength of but does”. Embla, 122 Russell St, bly we’re drinking the most at the moment balance and flavour. Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9654 5923 is prosecco, both locally made and imported. Nora, 156 Elgin St, Carlton, Vic, (03) 9041 8644> 7 Laham nayyeh, Gerard’s Bistro It’s lamb rather than beef that makes the cut in this clever textural twist on a classic Lebanese tartare. Bundles of hand-chopped lamb and pickled radish, spiced up with fiery harissa and fragrant with preserved lime, arrive dotted on a crisp saj flatbread. Swirls of creamy cured yolk with a scatter of balm bring the zing. Gerard’s Bistro, 14-15 James St, Fortitude Valley, Qld, (07) 3852 3822 FISH FINGERS WITH CHARRED TOAST, BODEGA On the menu since day one of service 10 years ago, Bodega’s signature dish sounds pretty straightforward on paper: fish, garlic, burnt toast. Veal sweetbread schnitty But it is truly more than sanga, Fleet the sum of its parts. Slices The perfect bar snack for a perfectly outré wine bar? It’d of kingfish on fingers have to involve something fried. It would want to be a of blackened toast with sandwich. There ought to be anchovies involved, possibly a confetti of cuttlefish ceviche, coriander, onion in a mayonnaise. And it’d need a clever twist. We give you and grated mojama come Fleet’s schnitzel sandwich: rounds of soft white bread together in a brilliantly enfolding hot, golden-crumbed veal sweetbreads and balanced mouthful a lick of anchovy mayo. Just add wine. Fleet, 2/16 The of flavour. Bodega, 216 Terrace, Brunswick Heads, NSW, (02) 6685 1363 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills, NSW, (02) 9212 7766 SPAGHETTI FRESCA WITH CLAMS AND SMOKED TOMATOES, TIPO 00 The world’s finest is magicked to a Platonic ideal with house-made spaghetti, clams, garlic and chilli. Then the Tipo kitchen takes it to a whole new level with the addition of smoked cherry tomatoes. Two words: pasta perfection. Tipo 00, 361 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9942 3946>

SINGLE-VINEYARD WINE In the old days, Australia’s most revered wines were multi-regional blends. Now terroir is king: fine-wine lovers care a lot about the precise patch of dirt where the grapes are grown, particularly if those grapes are of the pinot noir variety. PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA (TIPO WILLIAM MEPPEM (BODEGA), 00), PHOTOGRAPHY & WILLIAM MEPPEM (FLEET) BISTRO) AJ MOLLER (GERARD’S

8 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 9 PRETZEL AND WHIPPED BOTTARGA, 10 WILLIAM ST Brown rice bowl, Chef Dan Pepperell may have Tricycle Café jumped ship to Hubert, but The brown rice bowl changes daily DOUBLE-BOILED his pretzel with bottarga and is always delicious – the Sri WALLABY TAIL SOUP, remains a stalwart on the Lankan chicken curry is a standout FLOWER DRUM 10 William St menu. The – but it’s Adam James’s umami-rich, A taste of the Australian seeded pretzels arrive at often spicy fermented vegetables terroir in a hallowed the table hot, with a plate and that make this dish temple to high-end of feather-light dip made memorable. And, of course, there’s Cantonese food. zesty with bright salty roe. the rice. It’s biodynamic, rain-fed Anthony Lui takes Umami for days – it’s a bar brown rice with pepitas and Flinders Island wallaby snack to be reckoned with. sunflower seeds, kale, spring onion tail and painstakingly 10 William St, 10 William St, and chilli oil mixed through it. refines it into a rich, luscious broth powered Paddington, NSW, It might even be healthy. Tricycle (02) 9360 3310 by wolfberries and Café, 77 Salamanca Pl, Hobart, sweetened with yam. Tas, (03) 6223 7228 It’s both uniquely Australian and undeniably Canto – a multicultural masterpiece of harmony. Flower Drum, 17 Market La, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9662 3655

GARLIC BREAD, BURNT VANILLA, BROWN BUTTER, GAUGE Sticky fermented black garlic and treacle add to the sharp aesthetic, PANNA COTTA which is then neatly undone by a LAMINGTON, smooth quenelle of rich salty-sweet & STONE brown butter garnished with bitter Nadine Ingram takes burnt vanilla that also adds richness everything you love about and balance. It has become so this Australian classic and popular it now appears on Gauge’s turns it up. First, she soaks evening menu as dessert, too. the vanilla sponge squares Gauge, 77 Grey St, South Brisbane, with panna cotta. They’re Qld, (07) 3638 0431> then layered with berry compote, coated with dark chocolate, and finished with desiccated coconut CRAFT BEER Super-hoppy, sour, barrel-aged, in and coconut flakes. a can. Not since the glory days of the 19th century, Crunch, squish and cream when there was a brewery in every suburb and a pub – witness the evolution of on every corner, has there been such a diverse array an Australian icon. Flour & Stone, 53 Riley St, of beers on offer as there is today. And Australia’s Woolloomooloo, NSW, brewers have never been so adventurous. (02) 8068 8818 PHOTOGRAPHY MARCEL AUCAR (FLOWER DRUM), CHRIS CRERAR (TRICYCLE CAFÉ), CHRIS CRERAR (TRICYCLE DRUM), (FLOWER AUCAR MARCEL PHOTOGRAPHY WILLIAM ST) URIZAR (10 & JOHN PAUL AJ MOLLER (GAUGE) & STONE), (FLOUR MACUJA RODNEY

11 PRAWN, FIG-LEAF CREAM AND TURMERIC WAFER, ALØFT The extraordinary thing about this dish is the fig-leaf cream, which tastes like coconut. It’s haunting and addictive, weirdly taking you straight to South East Asia, which is exactly Glenn Byrnes’ plan. The flavour of coconut is wrought using Tasmanian ingredients. The YABBY JAFFLE, turmeric wafer and herb-spiked sambal are MONSTER exceptional, too. Aløft, Brooke Street Pier, Fun fact: Monster’s yabby Hobart, Tas, (03) 6223 1619 STRAWBERRY GUM AND jaffle started life as a snack SET BUTTERMILK, ORANA when Sean McConnell was This elegant palate-cleanser cooking at Močan & Green is built around the unlikely Grout. In his luxe version at foundation of eucalyptus. Hotel Hotel, poached yabby A quenelle of set buttermilk meat is stuffed into fluffy Macaroni, pig’s head and sits in a pool of strawberry white bread along with egg yolk, Acme juice and wildly fragrant green , crème fraîche Many of Acme’s brightest moments come when oil made from strawberry-gum and Gruyère, then it’s toasted leaves. This has been the skilfully made fresh pasta meets flavours it to a perfect shade of gold. finishing note on Orana menus It’s sharp, buttery, cheesy seldom encounters in Italy. And few are as bright since the restaurant opened, goodness. Club sandwich (or as satisfying) as one of the kitchen’s earliest and long may it continue. who? Monster, Hotel Hotel, hits. Mitch Orr takes the key elements of sisig, Orana, 285 Rundle St, the Filipino classic of pig’s head double-cooked, Adelaide, SA, (08) 8232 3444 25 Edinburgh Ave, Canberra, ACT, (02) 6287 6287 marinated in and served topped with a raw- or runny-yolked egg, and grafts them onto impeccable macaroni. Acme, 60 Bayswater Rd, Rushcutters Bay, NSW, (02) 8068 0932

ANCHOVY AND ITS BONES, PROVENANCE It’s the most spectral of SNACKS, IGNI snacks: a , dusky-pink Even the pre-dinner filleted Sicilian anchovy bites are stars at Igni. accessorised with – what House-made guanciale. else? – its skeleton, fried Swatches of chicken skin whole. A double-whammy topped with whipped cod of salty, brittle shatter and roe. Baby zucchini flowers raw, velvety give. Meta never tasted better. Provenance, harbouring just-cooked 86 Ford St, Beechworth, mussels. Umami-rich beef Vic, (03) 5728 1786 jerky. And as for the crisp saltbush leaves dusted ARTISAN SPIRIT Of course. It’s the hottest drinks trend. But which one? in vinegar powder, they Every week, it seems, so many new small-batch Australian gins pop ought to be packaged and onto the scene – not to mention paddock-to-bottle rums and single-cask sold in vending machines. whiskies – it’s hard to keep up. Not that we’re complaining. Igni, Ryan Pl, Geelong, Vic,

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CRERAR (ALØFT), BEN DEARNLEY (MONSTER), BEN HANSEN (ACME), BEN HANSEN (ACME), BEN DEARNLEY (MONSTER), CHRIS CRERAR (ALØFT), PHOTOGRAPHY (PROVENANCE) KOOLEN & JACQUIE (ORANA) KNOWLER JULIAN KINGMA (IGNI), JAMES (03) 5222 226>

12 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 13 Nahm prik nuum sandwich, Boon Café Half Thai, half Sydney café, and pure Boon, this spicy sanga takes a fiery relish traditionally served with crudités and remixes it with salted butter and Brickfields sourdough into an inspired and utterly devastating take on the salad sandwich. Thailand meets the tuckshop in the most interesting of ways. Boon Café, 425 Pitt St, Sydney, NSW, (02) 9281 2114 OYSTER ICE, BRAE It’s the oyster exponential: oyster MACKEREL brine combined DUMPLINGS, with sheep’s milk SHANDONG MAMA curd into a savoury It’s the ShanDong MaMa ice-cream, topped mystery: how can mackerel’s with a blitz assertiveness be tamed into of powdered cumulonimbus-light, aromatic freeze-dried dumplings that practically sherry vinegar and dehydrated levitate their way to your mouth? oyster and sea (Spoiler alert: the fish is turned lettuce. The pure into a fine mousse with ginger, taste of the sea – coriander and chives.) Either served on the shell, plain boiled or pan-fried, they’re naturally. Brae, the stuff of dumpling reverie. 4285 Cape Otway ShanDong MaMa, Shop 7, Rd, Birregurra, Vic, 200 Bourke St, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 5236 2226 (03) 9650 3818 CROISSANTS, LUNE CROISSANTERIE The definition of “artisan” may have been bastardised beyond meaning in an era of mass production, but Lune will brook no slights. Kate Reid has moved to bigger digs in Fitzroy, but her exacting iterations of French pâtisserie perfection remain truly artisanal – which explains why the queue forms before sunrise VERMOUTH Or one of the ever-growing number of aperitivi and digestifs and they sell out by mid-morning. and bitters being produced in Australia today. Many, like the artisan gins, Lune Croissanterie, 119 Rose St, Fitzroy, are being made using indigenous botanicals – inspiring mixologists to create Vic, (03) 9419 2320> local versions of classics like the Negroni and the Spritz. PHOTOGRAPHY MARCEL AUCAR ( LUNE, SHANDONG MAMA), ( LUNE, AUCAR MARCEL PHOTOGRAPHY URIZAR (BOON) JULIAN KINGMA (BRAE) & JOHN PAUL

14 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 15 BANJAAN BORANI, PARWANA BRAISED BONE MARROW, The easy harmony of eggplant LALLA ROOKH simmered in fresh tomato sauce Joel Valvasori-Pereza’s knack for reimagining produces the most seductive of robust Friulano cooking traditions made him one slippery vegetable dishes. The of the west’s most interesting dining prospects. secret is the texture – silky-soft BLOOD Few dishes exemplify his flavour-first thinking SANGA, ESTER without collapsing into mush Mat Lindsay’s inspired take on quite as boldly as this split beef bone, cooked osso – and its balanced accents of the classic backyard sausage buco-style, and served with fat fingers of charred garlic yoghurt and fresh mint. sandwich sees minced pork focaccia. It was a crowd favourite at Lalla Rookh, Parwana, 124B Henley Beach Rd, belly mixed with rice, pine nuts which he left in 2016; if you can’t catch it there, and a healthy dash of pig’s Torrensville, SA, (08) 8443 9001 blood. It’s steamed and then expect it to resurface on the menu at Valvasori- roasted in the wood-fired oven Pereza’s newest venture, Lulu La Delizia, before being placed on his a trattoria in Subiaco focusing on handmade canny replacement for spongy pasta. Lalla Rookh, lower ground floor, sliced-white: a steamed bread reminiscent of Chinese mantou 77 St Georges Tce, Perth, WA, (08) 9325 7077 buns. Sticking to tradition, it’s best folded in half and eaten with your hands. Ester, 46-52 Meagher St, Chippendale, NSW, (02) 8068 8279 BURRATA AND SHELLFISH OIL, AUTOMATA In a roundabout way we have Clayton Wells’s partner, Tania Fergusson, to thank for this unlikely flavour bomb. It was for Fergusson’s amusement at home that Wells had been recreating the shellfish oil he’d learnt to make at Tetsuya’s, and when he was looking for an interesting spin on the increasingly ubiquitous cheese, there it was. The only thing better than cutting into the creamy-centred cheese to FRIED CHICKEN, release the vibrant orange oil is tasting it. PECAN STICKY BUNS, ELEVEN BRIDGE Automata, 5 Kensington St, Chippendale, SWEET ENVY Think of it as the NSW, (02) 8277 8555 Master pâtissier Alistair Wise’s world’s fanciest croissant-based dough rolled with chicken nugget: frangipane spiked with orange and a round of amaretto is a unique homage to buns boned-out chicken he ate at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon. wing, deep-fried, CHINIZZA, LEE HO FOOK Before baking, the buns are doused skewered with a You’d have to be some kind of in dark salty caramel cooked just bone for ease of po-faced stick-in-the-mud not short of being burnt, which cuts the snacking, and then to get this “Chinese pizza”, sweetness, infusing everything – even bathed in kombu a glorious so-wrong-it’s-right the pecans. Sweet Envy, 341 Elizabeth butter and topped, arrangement of fried St, North Hobart, Tas, (03) 6234 8805 for good measure, base massed with thinly sliced with a healthy spring onions, shallots, chilli dollop of caviar. and brilliant buffalo A finger-lickin’- mozzarella. So salty, crunchy PALE, DRY ROSÉ After years and years of wine experts good union of the and soothing you’ll want to wondering why Australians don’t drink more pink, sales sublime and the order one for breakfast. Or at ridiculous. Eleven the end of a long night. Lee of the best wine for summer have finally taken off – with Bridge, 11 Bridge St, Ho Fook, 11-15 Duckboard Pl, a vengeance. So very now. Sydney, NSW, Melbourne, Vic,

(02) 9252 1888 (PARWANA), KNOWLER (LALLA ROOKH), JAMES D’ARCY (LEE HO FOOK), JODY AUCAR MARCEL PHOTOGRAPHY ELEVEN BRIDGE, ESTER) (AUTOMATA, SHAW LEVIS (SWEET ENVY) & ROB VANESSA (03) 9077 6261>

16 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 17 GRILLED PIPIS WITH LEMON MYRTLE, SMOKED ALMOND AND GARLIC, PAPER DAISY Australia’s surf clams have had their star turns (most notably with XO sauce and wodges of fried vermicelli at Sydney’s Cantonese landmark, Golden Century), but they’ve never been more Hollywood than against the glam backdrop of Paper Daisy at Halcyon House, the boutique hotel at Cabarita Beach on the north coast of New POTATOES WITH OYSTER AND South Wales. Here, chef Ben RAW MUSHROOM, SIXPENNY Devlin plays their briny bite Steak frites, bangers and mash, fish and off against the likes of chips – potatoes are perennial co-stars. But potatoes and peas, or lemon the spuds at Sixpenny get their moment myrtle, smoked almond and in the limelight in an ever-evolving course garlic. Paper Daisy, Halcyon on the dégustation: roasted baby potatoes House, 21 Cypress Cres, in house-made mustard, say, or poached Cabarita Beach, NSW, Dutch creams in a toasted rye butter (02) 6676 1444 topped with slices of raw button mushrooms and an oyster emulsion. The not-so-humble spud. Sixpenny, 83 Percival Rd, Stanmore, NSW, (02) 9572 6666

CARAWAY PASTRY WITH SMOKED TROUT MISO AND PINK AND CAVIAR, OAKRIDGE LADY SOFT-SERVE, This dish combines the firepower of chef Matt Stone SUPERNORMAL and his sous-chef/baker/partner, Jo Barrett, to Old-school dessert meets scintillating effect. Barrett’s superb escargot-shaped new-school ideas at pastry (made from croissant dough studded with Andrew McConnell’s caraway seeds) is the stage for local smoked trout, Japanese canteen. Take BAKED VACHERIN AND trout roe, sour cream and herbs. There’s a whiff of one soft-serve machine, POLISH SAUSAGE, the Nordic here, alongside a heap of Yarra Valley add the savoury element MARRON, YOUNG COCONUT, CONTINENTAL DELI flavour. Oakridge, 864 Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream, of miso and the tartness of KOJI BUTTER, MOMOFUKU SEIOBO If excess paves the road to Vic, (03) 9738 9900> apple and, hey presto, a Smoke and sweetness, the freshness of the sea, the wisdom, then Continental’s palate-refreshing Oz-Asian complexity of a gentle ferment, the richness of butter, baked cheese is brilliance in a box. Chef Jesse Warkentin mash-up that’s a little bit and the cascading textures of marron barbecued pops a deeply creamy cow’s kooky and totally unique. to order and slippery young coconut make this Supernormal, 180 Flinders milk washed-rind into the a standout among standouts on this menu. oven with white wine and La, Melbourne, Vic, Momofuku Seiobo, The Star, 80 Pyrmont St, (03) 9650 8688 herbs. If the threat of winey Pyrmont, NSW, (02) 9777 9000 molten cheese wasn’t enough, he teams it not with bread or crudités for NATURAL WINE A definitive 2017 mixed dozen has to include at least the dipping, but – wait for it – green olives and rounds one bottle of wine from the lo-fi camp: a preservative-free, biodynamically of smoked Polish sausage. grown grenache, perhaps, or a skin-fermented organic sauvignon blanc, Continental Deli, 210 or a no-additions amphora-matured riesling. Australia St, Newtown,

PHOTOGRAPHY MARCEL AUCAR (SUPERNORMAL), ANDREW FINLAYSON (SUPERNORMAL), ANDREW FINLAYSON AUCAR MARCEL PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA (OAKRIDGE), BEN HANSEN (CONTINENTAL), (MOMOFUKU), (SIXPENNY) SHAW & ROB DAISY) (PAPER KARA HAYNES NSW, (02) 8624 3131

18 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 19 RED-CLAW YABBIES, LEMON JAM, WOOD-ROASTED ABALONE, CULTURED CREAM AND FRANKLIN PIKELETS, Knowing how good it was when he’d BENNELONG cooked it beachside over coals, David Moyle Uniting that most Australian of crustaceans, decided abalone had to be on Franklin’s the yabby, with that most Australian of menu. It’s steamed whole for more than an after-school snacks, the pikelet, could, hour, cleaned, thinly sliced, then returned in the wrong hands, be a clunky piece of with seaweed to its shell and roasted in the stunt-casting. In the hands of wood-fired oven. Finished with house-made and Rob Cockerill at Bennelong, though, it’s oyster sauce spiked with black pepper and Australia on a plate, the yabbies poached lightened with eggwhite, it’s magnificent. and chilled, ready to be forked onto the Franklin, 30 Argyle St, Hobart, Tas, , warm and toasty in a fold of linen. (03) 6234 3375 Bennelong, Sydney Opera House, Bennelong Point, NSW, (02) 9240 8000

WHIPPED EMU EGG AND SUGARBAG, ATTICA Peri peri chicken, Take an emu egg. Africola Slice it open. Take out Chef Duncan Welgemoed the contents and whip transforms this Portuguese them with mead until staple with robust South African they reach a consistency something like a sabayon. vigour into a spectacular meal Pour it back into the for two. Roasted chicken from shell and serve it with the wood-fired oven is basted in sugarbag honey from “Mpumalanga fire” (Welgemoed’s stingless native bees, feisty take on caramelised peri pickled quandongs, peri sauce), accompanied by iron Daintree dark chocolate pots of chicken hearts and livers, and wattleseed ice-cream. cornmeal porridge topped with And there you have it: one of Australia’s most tomato gravy and leek ash, and interesting desserts. a side plate of banana curry. Attica, 74 Glen Eira Rd, Africola, 4 East Tce, Adelaide, Ripponlea, Vic,

PHOTOGRAPHY COLIN PAGE (ATTICA), CHRIS CRERAR (FRANKLIN), (ATTICA), PAGE COLIN PHOTOGRAPHY URIZAR (BENNELONG) & JOHN PAUL (AFRICOLA) KNOWLER JAMES SA, (08) 8223 3855 (03) 9530 0111>

20 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 21 CHICKEN FRICASSÉE, MASSAMAN TARTARE, RESTAURANT HUBERT RICK SHORES Go with a gang, order the Chopped to order, and chicken, and don’t leave without presented with an ochre- gnawing the feet. Chef Dan coloured salt-flecked yolk at Pepperell brines the Holmbrae its centre, this radical take on bird, steams it, then deep-fries diced raw beef is amped up it, chops it up and puts it back with a gutsy massaman paste, together – head, feet and all. white pepper, slivers of pickled The whole fricasséed chook is garlic and more. Rick Shores, served on confit button and 43 Goodwin Tce, Burleigh hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, Heads, Qld, (07) 5630 6611 and all the plate’s players come glistening with a glossy white wine and tarragon sauce. Unleash the Burgundy. RAW WAGYU SHOULDER WITH Restaurant Hubert, basement, GRILLED ENOKI, DUCK-EGG CREAM 15 Bligh St, Sydney, NSW, AND SEAWEED, THE BRIDGE ROOM (02) 9232 0881 Inspired by a memorable meal at a Kyoto restaurant that specialises in Kobe beef, Ross Lusted created this tartare, blending Japanese and Australian flavours. Translucent slices of well-marbled wagyu shoulder melt onto a bed of enoki mushrooms. They’re finished with a salted duck-egg cream SAGANAKI WITH and Olsson’s red gum-smoked salt. Lusted’s PEPPERED FIGS, decision to slice rather than chop the meat HELLENIC REPUBLIC means the dish is less of a tartare and more Sweet meets salt. of an ode to raw beef. The Bridge Room, A toasty wedge of 44 Bridge St, Sydney, NSW, (02) 9247 7000 golden-crusted, almost blistered kefalograviera cheese still sizzling in the RICE AND FLESH, cast-iron pan, capped with DINNER BY HESTON baby figs in a syrupy BLUMENTHAL Saltbush cakes, Billy Kwong sauce driven by honey, There’s an historical Is it a dumpling? Is it a doughnut? Kylie balsamic vinegar and backstory to the dish, Kwong’s savoury Canto-stralian saltbush plenty of black pepper. It’s of course, but all you cakes recall a number of things, but their all in the balance – and the really need to know about taste is pure outback. Crisp deep-fried speed with which it arrives Heston Blumenthal’s rice pastry is filled with leaves of the glossy at the table. Hellenic and flesh to enjoy it is native green, and house-made chilli Republic, 434 Lygon St, this: it’s a sunflower- and tamari sauces are on hand to Brunswick East, Vic, (03) yellow pond of tangy, complement the leaves’ bitterness. 9381 1222; 26 Cotham Rd, saffron-spiked risotto Billy Kwong, shop 1, 28 Macleay St, Kew, Vic, (03) 9207 7477> lapping at pieces of Potts Point, NSW, (02) 9332 3300 kangaroo tail subtly cooked in curried red wine sauce. Comfort food CRAFT CIDER If this mixed dozen were a truly accurate snapshot of circa 1390. Dinner by mainstream 2017 drinking, we’d put in an alcopoppy “cider” made from Heston Blumenthal, Crown Towers, level 3, 8 apple concentrate and water. Bugger that, though: let’s have a real cider, Whiteman St, Southbank, made from real apples. Vic, (03) 9292 5779 PHOTOGRAPHY MARCEL AUCAR (DINNER, HELLENIC REPUBLIC), WILLIAM MEPPEM (HUBERT), AUCAR MARCEL PHOTOGRAPHY URIZAR (BRIDGE ROOM) & JOHN PAUL KWONG) (BILLY SHAW AJ MOLLER (RICK SHORES), ROB

22 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 23 JUICY YOUNG RED We can’t get enough of the vibrant, smashable reds flooding our bottle shops and bars in 2017 – particularly those made from grapes such as nero d’Avola and touriga, or less mainstream French grapes like gamay, using techniques such as carbonic maceration and whole-bunch fermentation. MA PO TOFU, DAINTY SICHUAN “Pockmarked grandmother’s beancurd” – Kimchi and beef Team Dainty didn’t invent the name, but sandwich, Esquire their version of the dish has achieved Ryan Squires is famous for pushing international fame thanks to its take-no- the envelope, but this cracker prisoners onslaught of tofu and minced beef of a snack is more about filling it beautifully. A crisp wafer of with chilli and enough Sichuan pepper to house-fermented and dehydrated numb the mouth into next week. It ought kimchi arrives sandwiched between to come with a warning. In fact, it does: slivers of beef, one air-dried, the a two-chilli legend on the menu. Take it other raw, dialled up with powdered sesame seeds, dried ginger and seriously. Dainty Sichuan, 176 Toorak Rd, CRAB NOODLES, toasted nori in sesame oil. Consider South Yarra, Vic, (03) 9078 1686 LONG CHIM that umami goodness signed, sealed Long Chim branches opening and delivered. Esquire, 145 Eagle St, around the country is one Brisbane, Qld, (07) 3220 2123 instance of chain dining we can get behind, not least because Thai food authority David Thompson has developed a selection of dishes exclusive to each restaurant. In Perth, a dazzling riff on Chanthaburi’s regional signature, sen chan pad pu, a medium-hot noodle dish packing crisp crab, tomalley, fish sauce and tamarind. Long Chim, basement, State Buildings, cnr St Georges Tce & Barrack St, Perth, WA, (08) 6168 7775

TIRAMISÙ, ICEBERGS DINING ROOM & BAR This Icebergs dessert is a little bit of a treasure hunt, and a lot of tiramisù. When it first hits your table, the sizeable slab of mascarpone mousse looks relatively unassuming but underneath you’ll find cubes of coffee jelly, Marsala caramel sauce, coffee sorbet, meringue sticks and gold dust – and that’s just the first bite. Icebergs Dining Room & Bar, 1 Notts Ave, Bondi, NSW, (02) 9365 9000 PHOTOGRAPHY JODY D’ARCY (LONG CHIM), AJ MOLLER (ESQUIRE), (LONG D’ARCY JODY PHOTOGRAPHY (ICEBERGS) SHAW & ROB SICHUAN) REFTEL (DAINTY & MARTIN REFTEL EVANS JESSICA

24 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 25 EAT OUT The flavour of Sydney The Sydney restaurant scene has never been more fertile. Here’s a snapshot of the most notable recent openings from GT chief restaurant critic Pat Nourse.

It’s been a rollercoaster struggling to make an best-looking dining rooms 12 months in Sydney. But evening time-slot. Sydney has seen in years. the highs have significantly RUN OR WALK? Make haste. MINUS The name. Fred who? outweighed the lows. Despite the This place is a true standout. THE STRATEGY Don’t miss the closing or rebranding of some roast lamb – there’s none better big players (Marque, Rockpool, FRED’S in Sydney right now. Make the Guillaume) and the startlingly most of that excellent wine list. short lifespans of some 380 Oxford St, Paddington, RUN OR WALK? The tables here ballyhooed arrivals, the past (02) 9240 3000, merivale.com.au are in high demand. Go, go, go. year has seen a record number EAT The vibrant cooking from of openings of note. Among American-born chef Danielle BODEGA 1904 these are expansions from local Alvarez dazzles with the true restaurant groups (Merivale and savour of seasonal ingredients Harold Park Tramsheds, Solotel among them) or would- and traditional technique rather 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge, be groups, and many are part than kitchen tech and cheffy (02) 8624 3133, of large new dining precincts squiggles. Beetroot cooked in bodega1904.com (most notably Barangaroo and the coals with anchovy and EAT A reminder that before the Harold Park Tramsheds radicchio? Flaky rhubarb Porteño, Continental, Stanbuli in the city’s inner west), but galette? Just say yes. This is et al, chefs Ben Milgate and there’s also a sprinkling of Ester gone Eastern suburbs. Elvis Abrahanowicz made their owner-operators making waves PLUS This is one of the names with rock and roll tapas.> (hello, Saint Peter; hi there, Pino’s Vino e Cucina), plus a clutch of promising pop-ups. Here’s the best of the latest. SAINT PETER

362 Oxford St, Paddington, (02) 8937 2530, saintpeter.com.au EAT Come here for the best seafood cooking in town – it serves everything from fine fish ’n’ chips to John Dory liver and delicious parsley butter on toast. PLUS Saint Peter is perhaps the best showcase for the flavour of Australian fish in the whole of the country right now. TASTE MAKERS MINUS The dining room isn’t Rabbit casarecce, asparagus triangoli, and quite as superb as the food wood-fired squid, celery delivered by chef Josh Niland. and preserved lemon at THE STRATEGY Can’t get in for Fred’s. Opposite: Bodega dinner? Weekend lunches are 1904 at the Harold Park Tramsheds. 1904) (BODEGA NIKKI TO PHOTOGRAPHY the smart move, if you are 27 EAT OUT

PLUS The complexity and the other usual ingredients PLUS Smart eats that won’t scare PLATE CLASS Sydney’s Long Chim; breadth of Thai cuisine finds (onion, garlic, chilli, tomato, the horses: oysters, steak, fish, (inset) marron with a new local showcase. guanciale) offered in powder lamb, but plenty more besides. beach bananas at Cirrus. MINUS The extractor fans are form could be a travesty, but MINUS Noisy. The public bar not quite up to the complexity Matteo Zamboni’s focus on seems a missed opportunity, too. and breadth of Thai cuisine. flavour makes it all work. THE STRATEGY Team Aria’s THE STRATEGY The wine list PLUS Clever takes on reputation for excellent wine lists invites a leisurely investigation the Italian classics. hasn’t let them down – go hard. extra money for the wine list; of the menu over dinner, but MINUS Not the place if you like RUN OR WALK? An excellent it’s every bit up to any impulse don’t discount lunch – it’s a your classics done classically. offer for anyone who is not you may have to lash out. pacy service. THE STRATEGY Zamboni caters seduced by 10 William St, RUN OR WALK? Neil Perry has RUN OR WALK? Go early, and for guests who don’t eat gluten or Saint Peter or Fred’s.> reworked the formula of his go often. meat – a good option for coeliac, flagship roughly four times in vegan and vegetarian diners. the past 10 years, so sooner CHAT THAI RUN OR WALK? Worth a detour. might be better than later. GATEWAY PADDINGTON INN SUPER BOWLS NOUR Lvl 1, Gateway, 1 Macquarie Pl, Tom yum goong at tight on the likes of the silken Sydney, (02) 9247 3053, 338 Oxford St, Paddington, Chat Thai; (below) smoked ocean trout parfait Shop 3, 490 Crown St, Surry chatthai.com.au (02) 9380 5913, Matteo Zamboni of and the bass groper roasted Hills, (02) 9331 3413, EAT Chat Thai, the city’s paddingtoninn.com.au Zambo in Surry Hills. over coals in paperbark. noursydney.com best-liked Thai-owned Thai EAT Not to be confused with PLUS Bright flavours; Bentley’s EAT Flavours from Lebanon eatery, might’ve expanded The Paddington, which sits on signature polish and smarts and Israel plated with a modern at a rapid clip of late, but its the same block, this pub has front and back of house; plus hand – the “Old City mix” of newest branch might be its best been redone from scratch by a badass wine list. fried chicken offal on flatbread yet, with great new dishes such Aria chef , who MINUS The trek past three turns the Jerusalem favourite as Thai takes on prawn toast cut his teeth here in his early other restaurants to the toilets. into an elegant entrée without and Vietnam’s golden khanom pub-chef days. Big flavours THE STRATEGY Lunch is the sacrificing its earthiness. Oh, bueng pancakes. don’t disguise ex-Rockpooler best showcase for its light, and camel-milk panna cotta. PLUS Legendary sommelier Justin Schott’s careful cooking: brightness. Order the seafood PLUS A fresh take on some Charles Leong wrote the charry octopus with spicy This return to their roots is platter and go large on great much-loved flavours; and wine list, and the team from ’nduja or juicy roasted flathead the pick of the Tramsheds white wine. pleasant service. celebrated Oxford Street bar with beans and sesame. restaurants, not least for the RUN OR WALK? Run. The food, MINUS Room for improvement This Must be the Place grilled queso fresco with burnt wine, service are all in sync. on the wine list. consulted on the cocktails. leek and salted lime vinaigrette. THE STRATEGY Go with a MINUS That ventilation PLUS An improved wine ELEVEN BRIDGE group. There’s a particularly is awfully loud. offering that extends to lovely private dining room, too THE STRATEGY Don’t skip a small retail area. 11 Bridge St, Sydney, RUN OR WALK? Trot rapidly. dessert; it’s a feature here. MINUS Landing a seat here (02) 9252 1888, rockpool.com RUN OR WALK? Your new ain’t that easy. EAT This reboot of Rockpool, LONG CHIM pre-theatre lifesaver. THE STRATEGY Miss the spiced one of the city’s landmark blood cake at your peril. fine-diners, offers all the thrills Angel Pl, Sydney, (02) 9223 ZAMBO RUN OR WALK? Bop on down. and luxury of Phil Wood’s 7999, longchimsydney.com eclectic cooking with the EAT David Thompson has 4-5, 355, Crown St, Surry Hills, CIRRUS flexibility of an à la carte menu. opened a restaurant in his (02) 8937 3599, Take it outré with abalone hometown that proves, even zamborestaurant.com.au 23 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo, roasted in brown butter and via a chain restaurant focused EAT Italian food but not as you (02) 9220 0111, cirrusdining. XO sauce, or go comfort-plus on street food, that he is the know it. In lesser hands, tricks com.au with charcoal-roasted chicken pre-eminent ambassador for such as cross-breeding the EAT The team behind stuffed with pork and prawn. Thai cuisine. Taste the quality classic pizza and the Aussie celebrated CBD fine-diner (and PLUS Fine dining with all the as readily in the familiar (pad meat pie, or rethinking rigatoni wine Mecca) Bentley turns its trimmings. Thai) and the less expected all’Amatriciana as al dente pasta focus to seafood, loosening up MINUS We miss the bar menu. (the smoky stir-fry of cabbage, coated in parsley butter and a

the collar but keeping plating THE STRATEGY Pack some dried prawns and fish sauce). CHIM), BRETT (LONG NIKKI TO PHOTOGRAPHY THAI) & WILL HORNER (ZAMBONI) (CHAT STEVENS foam of Roman pecorino with

28 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 29 EAT OUT

BEAUX ARTS Bistro Guillaume; 1821 (inset) char-grilled octopus at The 122 Pitt St, Sydney, Paddington Inn. (02) 8080 7070, universalhotels.com.au EAT David Tsirekas, a noted interpreter of Greek classics, returns to the CBD in a heavily decorated room that takes the Greek War of Independence (as per the name) as its theme. The only fight in the menu is choosing between the old-school moussaka and the pork-belly baklava, a Tsirekas signature from his days back at Perama in Petersham. BANKSII EAT This is Guillaume Brahimi’s PLUS Lobster spaghetti! third branch of Bistro Guillaume MINUS It’s $95! 33 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo, (following Melbourne and THE STRATEGY Make it a (02) 8072 7037, banksii.sydney Perth), but could it have the business lunch. Get them to pay. EAT It’s billed as a vermouth hometown advantage? The RUN OR WALK? Worth a detour. bar and bistro, but that doesn’t Barossa chicken roasted for Valley milk, Nonie’s gluten-free do justice to the eats from Bar two with tarragon and Paris bread, free-range eggs from FLOUR EGGS WATER H’s Hamish Ingham. If there’s mash argues the affirmative. Egg Lady Deliveries. a theme here, it’s freshness PLUS The counter selling MINUS No dinner. Yet. Harold Park Tramsheds, with contemporary restaurant of product and ideas: grilled pastries, sandwiches, cakes THE STRATEGY Borrow a picnic 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge, smarts and plenty of smoke prawns in curry-leaf butter with and bread from Iggy’s. rug and take breakfast or lunch (02) 9188 7438 and flame. Orange-scented pickled turmeric, for instance, MINUS The corporate lobby. to Hinsby Park. EAT Flour plus eggs plus water sausage paired or prosciutto with grilled peach THE STRATEGY It’s the only RUN OR WALK? Skip gaily. equals (among other things) with wood-roasted grapes? and glazed almonds. one in the group to serve pasta. In the hands of gun Yes, please. PLUS Ingham is all about the breakfast; make the most of it. UME BURGER A Tavola chef Eugenio Maiale it PLUS Friendly neighbourhood flavours of China and Japan at RUN OR WALK? Go bientôt. means pappardelle (with lamb service, and generous serves. Bar H, but his more European Wulugul Walk, Barangaroo, ragù) and fusilli (with crab and MINUS VERY, VERY LOUD. stuff (shot through with CORNERSMITH umeburger.com chilli) of notable quality. THE STRATEGY Don’t drink the a dash of the native) is ANNANDALE EAT Following the success of PLUS They sell the pasta to go. sand-roasted coffee if you want just as compelling. his burger pop-ups in Surry MINUS The pasta itself is to sleep in the next 36 hours. MINUS The name. Banksy? 33 Barangaroo A88 View St, Hills, chef Kerby Craig has good, but perhaps not RUN OR WALK? If you don’t Banksy-eye? Banks Two? Annandale, (02) 8084 8466, planted his flag at Barangaroo the greatest in town. mind the volume of the room THE STRATEGY Half the cornersmith.com.au with this Japanese-flavoured THE STRATEGY Book ahead. as full-bore as the flavours. restaurant is out on the terrace; EAT Everyone’s favourite smart-fast takeaway. They’re nowhere near as adept so late-lunching or early dining pro- café has branched PLUS The prawn burger at queue management as their BISTRO REMY are the go. out from its Marrickville finds a permanent home. fellow tramshed operators. RUN OR WALK? Make tracks; headquarters with a beautifully MINUS The Bolognese on RUN OR WALK? At your leisure. The Langham Sydney, 89-113 definitely one for outdoor fun. designed second, much larger the Ume burger. Kent St, Sydney, (02) 9256 2222, eat-in premises in Annandale, THE STRATEGY Bracket it with BARZAARI langhamhotels.com BISTRO GUILLAUME offering the fresh, garden- a hot chicken sandwich from EAT The Langham swaps its SAINT’S ALIVE driven likes of black bread with Belle’s and a doughnut from 65 Addison Rd, Marrickville, Kent Street Kitchen concept Above: The pared-back dining room at Saint 259 George St, Sydney, buttermilk ricotta and greens. Shortstop for an afternoon of (02) 9569 3161, barzaari.com.au for “upscale neighbourhood Peter; the kakiage (02) 8622 9555, PLUS Lots of stuff to go from happy excess. EAT The flavours of Cyprus, bistro” serving twice-cooked burger at Ume Burger.

bistroguillaumesydney.com.au local producers – Country RUN OR WALK? One for the fans. GUILLAUME) (BISTRO FIORA SACCO PHOTOGRAPHY PETER) (SAINT & ANDREW FINLAYSON Greece and Lebanon presented Gruyère soufflé, saddle of>

30 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 31 EAT OUT

kitchen so well as this Sydney in the form of an eatery BLANCA PINBONE WIZARDS newcomer. The wontons are that’s as much inner-west as it Below, from top: raw prawns with buttered and seaweed- top-notch, too, and they also is Middle East. 75-79 Hall St, Bondi Beach, dusted bread, grilled pork ribs do interesting soft drinks. PLUS The superb fit-out (02) 9365 2998, blanca.com.au with black bean and longan PLUS A Chongqing noodle and hyper-local beer list EAT Tomi Björck is something of sauce, and stir-fried potato, eatery where as much care has give it more eat-in appeal a star back in his hometown of bean sprouts and raw yolk; been taken with the setting as than the “takeaway” part of Helsinki, and now, in what Pinbone chefs Jemma the noodles themselves. the name hints. might be the world’s longest Whiteman and Mike Eggert. MINUS It’s really small. Could MINUS It’s possible that commute, he has extended his be even spicier, too. not everyone will appreciate restaurant empire with a new THE STRATEGY Don’t neglect the bass-heavy tracks from addition in Bondi. Rather than the sides; the peanut and chicken Ahmed Mekky, the Egyptian- being overtly Nordic, it’s a salad is definitely worthwhile. Algerian rapper, on the playlist mix-up of Asian and European RUN OR WALK? Like noodles? (their loss). flavours, lots of them Japanese: Like spice? Go without delay. THE STRATEGY Breakfast in yuzu and shiso accent grilled the courtyard out the back: squid along with yoghurt and OSAKA TRADING CO parsley omelette rolls! Fuul confit shallot, while miso, medamas! Breakfast ! eggplant grains, mushrooms, Harold Park Tramsheds, 1 RUN OR WALK? Entirely worth kombu, garlic and a sesame> Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge, (02) crossing the street for. 8880 0717, osakatrading.com.au EAT Moving on from the yakitori GOOD LUCK DISH OF THE DAY focus of their Surry Hills outpost, PINBONE Above: Chongqing the crew from Tokyo Bird open noodles at T-Noodle. their menu up to a broader 121 Anzac Pde, Kensington, izakaya brief: potato salad with pinbone.com.au. miso mayo, fried chicken et EAT Last seen cooking Italian cetera, plus creative cocktails at 10 William St, and modern Mediterranean, osso buco and and plenty of Japanese whisky. Australian on the Buzo site, farro appearing in vine leaves, PLUS A Japanese-style katsu the Billy Kwong-trained tahini binding silverbeet and sando (in this case the classic Pinbone team returns to its Flinders Island lamb with garlic chickpeas in a pleasing side. pork schnitzel number) to go. roots cooking fresh takes on and olive, and the like. PLUS A gleaming fit-out that MINUS But not to eat in? What? Chinese food in a very DIY PLUS The prices are lower, references the old lines of its THE STRATEGY Underorder pop-up space on Anzac Parade. with most main courses now Glebe-landmark Valhalla slightly when you’re seated, Say hello to raw prawns with priced under $40. cinema premises. then get the katsu sando for buttered and seaweed-dusted MINUS The room is still more MINUS The acoustics are brutal. the ride home. white bread and Sichuan oil, global hotel than local favourite. THE STRATEGY Leave your RUN OR WALK? To reach and killer pork ribs with black THE STRATEGY Chef Dave deafer friends and relatives at Osaka Trading Co you walk bean, ginger and longans. Whitting counts Bistro home, or bring the ear trumpet. past Bodega 1904 on one PLUS Low prices, high quality, Guillaume and Guillaume RUN OR WALK? Meander; side or Belle’s Hot Chicken no fuss, pleasant service. at Bennelong among his it’s a pleasant new local. on the other. Tough break. MINUS No bookings, no décor, previous kitchens; expect quite a lot of noise. gentle twists to the classics. T-NOODLE CAIRO TAKEAWAY THE STRATEGY It’s unlicensed, RUN OR WALK? If you’re in the so go hard on the BYO. The neighbourhood. Shop TG3, 8 Quay St, 81 Enmore Rd, Enmore, space is also quite dark at Haymarket, (02) 8385 9880 (02) 9517 2060, night, so if you like to Instagram TINELLO EAT Outlets specialising in cairotakeaway.com (or merely see) what you’re Chongqing-style noodles and EAT Charcoal chicken eating, go for lunch instead. 2/166 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe, Sichuan flavours are quietly rolls! Lentils, rice and fried RUN OR WALK? Run. It’s fun (02) 9518 4592, tinello.com.au taking over Chinatowns all over onion! Baked eggs with spicy and excellent value. The EAT The brief is Italian cooking the country, but none balance sausage! Egyptian cuisine gets building is due for demolition

with influences from the greater polish with smarts in the much-needed representation in PINBONE) LUCK (GOOD NIKKI TO PHOTOGRAPHY (T-NOODLE) SHAW & ROB in early 2018.

32 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 33 EAT OUT

SOTTO VOCE From left: Sotto Sopra’s Victor Moya, Alessandro Pavoni and Mattia Rossi; their prawns with lemon, paprika and garlic.

PINO’S VINO E CUCINA hummus provide the busy meet modern-Italian chic in this backdrop for poached chicken latest outing from Alessandro Pino’s Vino e Cucina, 199 PLUS A different perspective. Pavoni, owner of Sydney’s Lawrence St, Alexandria, MINUS Maybe a bit too much most ambitious Italian eatery, (02) 9550 2789 going on. Ormeggio. Wood-roasting is EAT With its saloon-like THE STRATEGY Groups are a theme, whether it’s porchetta, decor (all that’s missing is the welcomed with set menus of chicken done cacciatora-style swing doors and the pianola, five, seven and 10 courses. with green olives, sage and Westworld fans) and Italianate RUN OR WALK? A fun addition parsley, or whole flathead menu, wags have nicknamed to the neighbourhood rather with brown butter, capers Pino’s style spaghetti Western. than something you might and lemon. And yes, we are those wags. cross town for. PLUS Possibly the fanciest We like the pasta, but we love garlic bread in the state. the drinks offer. SOTTO SOPRA MINUS A pretty solid trek from PLUS Outstanding cocktails the CBD, let alone further south. MINUS Some odd moments The Palms, G04/316-324 THE STRATEGY A worthy with the food. Barrenjoey Road, (02) 9997 mission; roll it into a beach-day THE STRATEGY Approach LITTLE ITALY 7009, sottosopra.com.au for maximum value. it like a bar with good eats The saloon stylings of EAT Neighbourhood-restaurant RUN OR WALK? Get in before rather than a restaurant with Pino’s Vino e Cucina. .

charm and relaxed rusticity the weather turns. great drinks. SOPRA) & CHRIS CHEN (SOTTO (PINO’S) MACUJA RODNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

34 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 35 ACT George St, Sydney). Sample Coffee (118a Devonshire St, Surry Hills, 02 Coffee in the capital? The best is 9517 3963) and Room 10 (10 Llankelly found at Močan & Green Grout (1/19 Pl, Potts Point) do big things in tight Marcus Clarke St, New Acton, South), spaces, and 212 Blu (212 Australia St, Lonsdale Street Roasters (7 Newtown, 02 9516 0115) nails all-day Cafés for days Lonsdale St, Braddon, 02 6156 0975), breakfast. And when food is the Whether you take your caffeination Ona on The Lawns (4 Palmerston Ln, priority? Brunch is best at Three Blue straight up or you’re after smashing Manuka, 02 6295 0057), and its sister, Ducks (141-143 Macpherson St, Bronte, The Cupping Room (1/1-13 University 02 9389 0010) and Ruby’s Diner sustenance, too, nowhere rivals the café Ave, Canberra, 02 6257 6412). Barrio (Shop 1, 173-179 Bronte Rd, Waverley), culture found in Australia’s capitals. Collective Coffee (59/30 Lonsdale St, or opt for Thai sandwiches at Boon Braddon, 0423 100 814) also makes a Café (425 Pitt St, Sydney, 02 9281 2114), great brew and breakfast. Stand by Me or duck vermicelli at Glider KS (7/9 Lyons Pl, Lyons, 0458 962 716) (26 Kensington St, Chippendale). serves hearty snacks and fun tunes. Cornersmith (314 Illawarra Rd, Marrickville, 02 8065 0844) and West Juliett (30 Llewellyn St, Marrickville, SYDNEY 02 9519 0101) are inner-west gems, while the original branches of the The question with coffee in Sydney Insta-famous Black Star Pastry (277 today isn’t whether it’s good so Australia St, Newtown, 02 9557 8656), much as how many can you cram into ever-expanding Bourke Street a day. There’s the outstanding milk Bakery (633 Bourke St, Surry Hills,> work from Neighbourhood by Seán McManus (16 Buckingham St, Surry Hills, 0412 061 899), or a window seat and a batch brew at Artificer (547 Bourke St, Surry Hills). Skittle Lane (40 King St, Sydney, 0466 406 463), Edition Coffee Roasters (265 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst) and Cross Eatery (155 Clarence St, Sydney, 02 9279 4280) channel Scandi-cool fit-outs, with equal care given to what’s on the menu. The team behind Reuben Hills (61 Albion St, Surry Hills, 02 9211 5566) and Paramount Coffee Project (80 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills, 02 9211 1122) are behind the very likeable Hills Bros (5 Martin Pl, Sydney, 0432 269 006). Roasters- turned-cafés with a focus on terroir include Campos (193 Missenden Rd, Newtown, 02 9516 3361), Gypsy Espresso (6/81 Macleay St, Potts Point, 02 8356 9264), Mecca (26 Bourke Rd, Alexandria, 02 9698 8448), Single O (60-64 Reservoir St, Surry Hills, RISE AND SHINE The Kettle Black, 02 9211 0665), Central Roasters Melbourne. Opposite: (8/10 Central St, Sydney), Coffee the breakfast salad Alchemy (24 Addison Rd, Marrickville, from Ruby’s Diner 02 9516 1997), Micro (23 Barangaroo in Sydney. Ave, Barangaroo) and Gumption

PHOTOGRAPHY MARTIN REFTEL & JESSICA REFTEL EVANS REFTEL EVANS REFTEL & JESSICA MARTIN PHOTOGRAPHY URIZAR (RUBY’S) & JOHN PAUL (KETTLE BLACK) (Shop 11, 412-414 Strand Arcade, 37 blood pancake, leg ham and smoked New Farm, 07 3358 6336) sets a Paddy’s Lantern (219 Gilbert St, sabayon. Its sibling venue, Sourced benchmark for French pastries, while Adelaide, 0402 586 245) and La Moka Grocer (11 Florence St, Teneriffe, Lokal + Co (6 O’Connell St, West End, (16a Peel St, Adelaide, 0406 729 164). 07 3852 6734), is another innovator, 07 3844 1675) brings Nordic finesse to Try Jonny Pisanelli’s pastries at offering an airy warehouse vibe and the inner city. Did somebody say Abbots & Kinney (78 Pirie St, a locavore larder. In the CBD, laneway Scandinavian ? Adelaide, 0412 550 336), or French destination Felix for Goodness crêpes at Le Carpe Diem (230-232 (50 Burnett La, Brisbane, 07 3161 7966) Grenfell St, Adelaide, 08 8123 7488). rethinks local, mostly organic produce; ADELAIDE get a taste of the Moya Valley chicken wrap with spiced labne and peach. Market St (11 Market St, Adelaide, HOBART Coffee Anthology (126 Margaret St, 08 8231 5014) is a smart café with the Brisbane, 07 3210 1881) has won a lot: a bakery supplying pastries to At Alistair Wise and Teena Kearney- devoted following with beans sourced Dough in Adelaide Central Market, Wise’s Sweet Envy (341 Elizabeth St, countrywide. Are you all about the deli selections and superb cold-brew North Hobart, 03 6234 8805) savour coffee and nothing but the coffee? coffee. More treats are found inside croissants and pecan buns in the LOCAL FLAVOUR The hidden Strauss (189 Elizabeth St, the market at new eateries Comida morning, sandwiches with house-made Neighbourhood by Brisbane, 07 3236 5232) and bar-café Catering Co (Stall 11, 0421 833 375), bread at lunch, and cake (especially Seán McManus. John Mills Himself (40 Charlotte St, Lucia’s Traiteur (Shop 4, Opéra cake) and macarons any time. Right: Black Star Pastry’s strawberry Brisbane, 0434 064 349) are both Central Western Mall, 08 8231 2260) Tricycle Café & Bar (77 Salamanca Pl, watermelon cake. worth tracking down for their exacting and Poh Ling Yeow’s Jamface (Stall Hobart, 03 6223 7228) is especially approach to caffeine. Vieille Branche 28/29, 0433 815 137). Delicious worth a visit for its daily rice bowl (10 Fox St, Albion, 07 3862 1840) is breakfasts define Hey Jupiter (11 and occasional congee. The menu at a bohemian lair with Mariage Frères Ebenezer Pl, Adelaide, 0416 050 721) Pigeon Hole (93 Goulburn St, West teas, French farmhouse cuisine and and The Flinders Street Project (276 Hobart, 03 6236 9306) is built around Bear Bones coffee. King Arthur café Flinders St, Adelaide, 08 7230 1817). produce from its owner’s organic farm, (164c Arthur St, Fortitude Valley, For serious coffee, head to Exchange while Berta (323a Elizabeth St, North 07 3358 1670) has a firm hold on Specialty Coffee (12-18 Vardon Ave, Hobart, 03 6234 4844) serves eggs in crowd-pleasing fare. Sister venture Adelaide, 0415 966 225), Coffee Branch all manner of ways. For top-hole java, Merriweather café (27 Russell St, (32 Leigh St, Adelaide, 0451 661 980), head to Pilgrim Coffee (48 Argyle St, South Brisbane, 07 3844 3609), Hobart, 03 6234 1999) and its sibling, also serves seasonal dishes with Bright Eyes (Stall 21, Brooke St Pier, brio. Ben O’Donoghue now has two Franklin Wharf, Hobart), Yellow notable eateries to his name, Billykart Bernard (109 Collins St, Hobart, 02 9699 1011), the breakfast-friendly West End (2 Edmondstone St, South 03 6231 5207), Straight Up (202a Brickfields (206 Cleveland St, Brisbane, 07 3177 9477) and Billykart Liverpool St, Hobart, 03 6236 9237); Chippendale, 02 9698 7880) and Kitchen (1 Eric Cres, Annerley, and Shake a Leg Jr (85 Main Rd, sweet-toothed Flour and Stone 07 3392 9275). Down in the Valley, Moonah, 03 6228 2222). They know (53 Riley St, Woolloomooloo, Ltd Espresso & Brew Bar (362 their beans. 02 8068 8818) offer comfort in Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley, baked form. Further afield, Showbox 0417 638 070) and Reverends Fine Coffee Brewers (19 Whistler St, Coffee (372 Brunswick St, Fortitude MELBOURNE Manly, 02 9976 5000) and Excelsior Valley) answer the prayers of coffee Jones (139a Queen St, Ashfield, aficionados. Out in the suburbs, Wild The seriousness with which Melbourne 02 9799 3240) both shine bright. Canary (2371 Moggill Rd, Brookfield, approaches its caffeine intake can be 07 3378 2805) is a botanical bistro both admired and mocked, but the fact with a lush garden setting. Bare that it’s harder than ever to find a BRISBANE Bones Society (Shop 22, Jindalee dodgy coffee can only be a good Homemaker Centre, 34 Goggs Rd, thing. The most fanatical places, like Is Gauge (77 Grey St, South Brisbane, Jindalee, 07 3715 5571) has a simple, Market Lane (Shop 13, Prahran Market, MORNING 07 3638 0431) the model of the café- pared-back approach, while Sarmic GLORY 163 Commercial Rd, South Yarra, restaurant of the future? The beans Artisan Provisions & Café (4/7 Hey Jupiter’s 03 9804 7434; 176 Faraday St, Carlton; come from Marvell St Coffee Roasters, Apollo Rd, Bulimba, 0426 485 405) breakfasts 109-111 Therry St, Melbourne; Shop the oats are house-rolled and at is Bulimba’s most appealing place for are out of 73-76, Dairy Produce Hall, Queen this world.

breakfast the eggs might arrive with brunch. Chouquette (1/19 Barker St, (NEIGHBOURHOOD), YIANNI ASPRADAKIS PHOTOGRAPHY STAR) (BLACK (HEY JUPITER) & DIEU TAN SIMON BAJADA Victoria Market; 8 Collins St,>

38 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 39 Oxford St, Collingwood, 03 9417 2741), NORTHERN TERRITORY coffee and winning specials such Crabapple Kitchen (659 Glenferrie Rd, as The Roma’s Reuben sandwich. Hawthorn, 03 9078 5492), and Small Just because it’s hot doesn’t mean The café fun doesn’t end when Victories (617 Rathdowne St, Carlton you don’t want a nice hot drink. you leave the capital, either. In North, 03 9347 4064), where the In Darwin, exceptional coffee is on Katherine, for instance, The Finch pared-back aesthetic is a perfect match offer at The Foreshore Restaurant Café (10 Katherine Tce, Katherine, for a kitchen that churns its own butter & Café (255 Casuarina Dr, Nightcliff, 08 8972 1990), fashions the region’s and makes its own . For a 08 8948 4488), which serves three best coffee, cakes and brunch dishes. Japanese hit head to Cibi (45 Keele St, meals a day and is worth a visit for For daytime eats in Alice Springs, Collingwood, 03 9077 3941), where its picturesque seaside location meanwhile, visit Page 27 Café (3 Fan deliciously clean, light food makes alone. Nearby newcomer Lucky Arcade, Alice Springs, 08 8952 0191), eating seem virtuous, and you can shop Bat Café (3/7 Pavonia Pl, Nightcliff, or Watertank Café (16b Wilkinson St, for Japanese homewares. Find great 08 7099 1160) is a colourful spot Alice Springs, 0408 854 472), which is Middle Eastern flavours at Brunswick showcasing local art as well as notable (especially in a desert town) Foodstore (29 Weston St, Brunswick, sensational salads and eggy treats. for the fact it’s set in a nursery. 03 9388 8738) and modern Greek Meanwhile, landmarks such as tastes (and great coffee, wine and The Trader (T3, 60 Winnellie Rd, ouzo) at Demitri’s Feast (141 Swan St, Darwin, 0416 462 578) and The Richmond, 03 9428 8659). In the west, Roma Bar (9 Cavenagh St, Darwin, places like Rudimentary (16-20 Leeds 08 8981 6729) still offer reliable St, Footscray, 0497 058 173), a good- looking venue fashioned from three shipping containers, keep this area’s LOFTY STATION Left: Higher Ground. café-hotspot status on the boil. Below: The Kettle Black. Opposite: (from left) Ben Farrant and Alric PERTH Hansen of Small Victories. Melbourne), Brother Baba Budan (359 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, The ringleaders behind Perth’s coffee 03 9606 0449), Dukes Coffee order continue to blur the lines Roasters (247 Flinders La, Melbourne, between café and restaurant and 03 9417 5578), Traveller (2/14 Crossley Asian influences abound. Deluxe St, Melbourne, 03 9347 8664) and congee and kimchi toasties help to Patricia (cnr Little Bourke & Williams explain the permanent queues at sts, Melbourne 03 9642 2237), keep Tbsp (10 King William St, Bayswater, food to afterthought status at best, 08 9371 9334); nasi goreng hitam and the attention going to the beans and pork katsu are deftly deployed at brewing. But there’s plenty for those university café Grindhouse (Building in need of sustenance and caffeination. 3, Edith Cowan University, 2 Bradford The team behind Top Paddock (658 St, Mount Lawley, 08 9371 6886), while Church St, Richmond, 03 9429 4332) kaya-filled croissants and matcha and The Kettle Black (50 Albert Rd, pastries figure among the baked treats South Melbourne, 03 9088 0721), two at the cultish Chu Bakery (498 William of the city’s most innovative cafés in St, Highgate, 08 9328 4740). Mary terms of both food and design, also Street Bakery (507 Beaufort St, count Higher Ground among its stable 0499 509 300) continues to command (650 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, 03 a loyal following at its original 8899 6219), a 160-seater in a beautifully Highgate location, as well as at renovated former power station, that a spin-off (272 Railway Pde, West blurs the line between restaurant- and Leederville, 0498 880 012). Baristas café-food while keeping an eye on the at coffee haunts Sprolo (138 Canning coffee. Design and food are also given Hwy, South Perth, 0401 625 134) equal billing at the lovely and airy and Architects and Heroes (Shop 25, Mammoth (736 Malvern Rd, Armadale, 17-31 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco) are both

03 9824 5239), South of Johnston (46 geeky and gracious. REFTEL EVANS REFTEL & JESSICA MARTIN PHOTOGRAPHY (HIGHER GROUND) AUCAR & MARCEL & KETTLE BLACK) (SMALL VICTORIES

40 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 41 FINE DINING

BRAE

JERK-SPICED CHICKEN AND CITRUS AT MOMOFUKU SEIOBO

Class acts Australia has a feast of fine-diners, cutting edge to classic. Here’s our pick of the best-dressed tables in the country. PHOTOGRAPHY MARCEL AUCAR (BRAE) AUCAR MARCEL PHOTOGRAPHY (MOMOFUKU) & ANDREW FINALYSON

43 Momofuku Seiobo you’ve just eaten – perhaps a sublime Quay THE STAR, 80 PYRMONT ST, pie flavoured with Vegemite, Goolwa UPPER LEVEL, OVERSEAS PYRMONT, (02) 9777 9000 pipis shimmering with seaweed butter, PASSENGER TERMINAL, seiobo.momofuku.com sensational kangaroo meat teamed THE ROCKS with a bunya bunya cream, or diced (02) 9251 5600 The food of Barbados figures emu and red cabbage – is witty, quay.com.au minimally in the history of Australian dazzling and original. And that fine-dining. Or at least it did until the service and wine-matching is Share plates. No bookings. Bar dining. Paul Carmichael took the reins at approached with intelligence and None of these things trouble you at Seiobo and looked to his heritage for warmth, avoiding the longueurs. Quay, a restaurant that floats beyond a bold new direction. The glassed-in Add a low-key, dark-hued room with trends as serenely as its dining room fridges now hold pineapples, pork immaculate linen-dressed tables which floats above the harbour, affording and pumpkins; the Mud plates often reads as cosy and sophisticated, and perfect views of bridge and Opera come lined with banana leaf. But it’s little wonder securing a table here House both. Chef Peter Gilmore while Carmichael’s sunny ease seems is the only tricky part of the equation. creates his own culinary language a world away from the intensity of on the bespoke plates with rare Momofuku’s earlier days, the attention ingredients and even rarer emphasis QUAY’S SNOW EGG to detail and focus in the kitchen Brae on texture in tandem with flavour. haven’t wavered. Koji butter and 4285 CAPE OTWAY RD, Crisp feathers of seaweed and dried fronds of young coconut coax real BIRREGURRA scallop bring radical savoury richness magic from marron grilled with (03) 5236 2226 to a take on XO sauce that counters exquisite care, just as jerk-spiced crisp braerestaurant.com.au the powerful sweetness of marron, chicken skin adds interest to a bundle while the layering of tastes in a of chicken flecked with citrus. Wine Prepare to enter a picture of the composition of white walnuts, smoked and service are mannered but not countryside framed by note-perfect eel, fermented mushrooms and unpleasantly so. Things you may have Australiana but painted in bold, pancetta is both adroit and artful, found irksome about Seiobo – the elegant and unsentimental strokes. echoed later by a dessert playing volume of the music, the focus on Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter the same nuts against prunes soaked bar seating, the online quality of the celebrates his region with dishes that in Madeira and caramelised white reservations, the casino of its setting chocolate. It’s a big operation, and are formally daring (crunchy prawn SEPIA – remain, but they are transcended heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea service remains more rote than anew by a fresh vision. urchin and chicory bread pudding!), relaxed, but buffered by acres of yet rich in flavour and substance. ironed linen and a fine wine list, it The menu could benefit from an can’t obscure Quay’s essential lustre. translucent sheets of squid are spliced Attica edit, but the plates are tightly into ribbons, then rolled and peppered 74 GLEN EIRA RD, RIPPONLEA composed – and what could you with yuzu, while shiitake floss brings (03) 9530 0111 cut? Certainly not the limpid broth Sepia sweet-savoury crunch to a sushi-like attica.com.au bathing fronds of abalone and 201 SUSSEX ST, SYDNEY ball of rice. Whether you’re dining at a calamari, nor the clever arrangement (02) 9283 1990 low table in the bar or in the plush main One of Ben Shewry’s great strengths is of lobster played off against charred sepiarestaurant.com dining room, service is as seamless as his ability to transform the potentially waxy fingerlings under a swatch the décor. Sommelier Rodney Setter hokey into something genuine and of milk skin. The adventure is Surprise is the name of the very helps navigate the extensive wine list heartfelt. After the savoury courses, significantly the richer for the cool grown-up, very polished game at Sepia. with charm – quick to suggest a glass you retreat to the restaurant’s tiny gloss of the dining room, some of the The food is a lesson in texture, beauty of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, perhaps, or a backyard to have a cuppa and a most engaging service in the nation and ingenuity all at once. Chicken single-vineyard Victorian syrah poured kangaroo-shaped while chatting and wine pairings that roam with an skin and artichoke crisps shaped like from the magnum. He’s equally excited with a chef about the garden. That easy-going confidence. Maturing and autumn leaves shield cod from view, by tea, which has its own carte. Your could be twee, but instead it adds an relaxing without surrendering a drop while a toffee-like twig made of pockets will be lighter when you leave, attractive earthiness to the fine-dining of its ambition, Brae is more dehydrated mushroom sits atop wagyu. yes, but your heart will be fuller for the

experience. It helps that the food compelling than ever. EGG) JEREMY SIMONS (SNOW PHOTOGRAPHY Every spoonful brings surprise: ceremony of it all.>

44 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 45 BENNELONG’S CHERRY Vue de Monde JAM LAMINGTON LEVEL 55, RIALTO, 525 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE (03) 9691 3888 vuedemonde.com.au

Shannon Bennett’s flagship makes it look easy. The hefty, broad-ranging wine list, glamorous room, spectacular views, lofty price tag, designer cutlery same outing. Larger courses are Bentley and immaculate staff seem the natural typically built around beautifully 27 O’CONNELL ST, SYDNEY way of things when dining 55 floors cooked pieces of : grilled lamb (02) 8214 0505 above Melbourne. But, while it’s loin on walnut cream cut with pickled thebentley.com.au a high-end, well-oiled machine, Vue caper leaves, say, or a buttery fillet of de Monde doesn’t lack personality Murray cod, steamed just so, textured Even if Brent Savage were somehow or humour. Snacks that start the with surf clams and celtuce. Service is limited to a toaster oven, the plates dégustation might include a miniature not as finessed as might be expected coming from his kitchen would be far Chiko-like roll filled with fermented in so soigné a room served by so from predictable. At Bentley, where barley, while a marron “snag” is expensive a cellar, but even if the he has a few more gadgets to play barbecued over charcoal at the table atmosphere isn’t perfectly special, with, his dishes are some of the most and popped into a tiny brioche. It’s the food remains a knockout. forward-looking and accomplished not all gimmickry, though. Slivers of in town. Small bites are as intricate Blackmore beef are served raw, while as the main event: a pretzel puff with superbly cooked duck breast is teamed Bennelong chicken-skin purée, a scallop ceviche with leeks rolled around a truffle filling. SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE, that bursts with the freshness of sorrel Then Jerusalem artichoke doughnuts BENNELONG BENNELONG POINT, SYDNEY granita, or spot prawns bound with – fried, sugared and pumped full of (02) 9240 8000 a silky macadamia sauce. Pumpkin a hazelnut emulsion – arrive, keeping bennelong.com.au spaghetti with kombu oil and things from getting too serious. black-bean crumb is as thoughtful Special occasions are the default for Step into Bennelong and witness the a main course as any protein. For this kind of setting, but Vue’s moments power of architecture. The soaring dessert, violet ice-cream with Coco of whimsy and surprise push those space, refreshed with burnished brass, Pop-like honeycomb and musk sticks moments into the memorable. lustrous hues and molten-metal lights, is both artistic and tasty. The wave elicits awe. Peter Gilmore keeps things of creative energy flows through simple with two or three prix-fixe the vibrantly modern Pascale The Bridge Room courses and restraint on the plate. Gomes-McNabb interiors and the 44 BRIDGE ST, SYDNEY To upend the natural order, let’s talk well-oiled front-of-house, down to Nick (02) 9247 7000 dessert. Do. Not. Miss. Most popular Hildebrandt’s carefully curated wine thebridgeroom.com.au is the lamington, with coconut cake, list (Jura fans take note). A microcosm cherry jam ice-cream, glossy bitter of relentless perfectionism. The Bridge Room was until recently chocolate, all nestled in curls of coconut. one of the few restaurants in its class The courses before it are equally that continued to focus on service praiseworthy: delicately balanced Orana à la carte, which perhaps explains its white corn polenta crowned with sweet UPSTAIRS, 285 RUNDLE ST, popularity with the business crowd. spanner crab and slivers of palm heart, ADELAIDE On the plus side, the new tasting menu perhaps, or steamed Murray cod atop (08) 8232 3444 provides an opportunity to try both ginger-scented congee, with toasted restaurantorana.com the steamed scallop pudding (an airy, pepitas adding crunch. The wine list barely there quenelle packed with will impress, as will the sommelier who Quietly, up a set of stairs in a dimly lit flavour, contrasted with the textures deftly helps navigate it. In fact, the side-street, a revolution has been of abalone and biltong) and the entire floor crew is one of Sydney’s taking place. might be slow-roasted beets (currant grapes, finest. There’s an energy and ease that the savviest interpreter of indigenous sheep’s milk curd and radicchio butter feels modern (we love the unclothed ingredients working in fine dining.

making it a picture of autumn) in the (BENNELONG) SHAW ROB PHOTOGRAPHY tables) and, dare we say it, iconic. That this task has fallen to a Scot of>

46 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 47 Italian heritage may seem incongruous, Sixpenny Rascal tees as diamond necklaces and but to taste what’s on the plate is to be 83 PERCIVAL RD, STANMORE couture, the tarte Tatin will be the convinced, over the course of a great (02) 9572 6666 complement to a toasty slice of number of dishes (and quite a few sixpenny.com.au noir, and it’ll be a confit field mushroom hours) of the sincerity of his with the au poivre, not a steak. The commitment, the confidence of his Incongruity is one of Sixpenny’s chief really likeable thing about Hubert is craft and the importance of his charms. Step through the door of the that, from the food to the service to mission. There’s theatre in potato unassuming shopfront in suburban the superb wine list, it might be fun damper cooked on coals at the table, Stanmore and you’re rewarded with but it also really delivers. Welcome invention in puffy chips of kangaroo the calm charm of a small dining to your new favourite night out. tendon, and pure pleasure in sweet room elegantly appointed with marron scented with Geraldton wax unclothed tables, fine glassware and cut with watercress purée. The and crisp botanical prints. The music Penfolds Magill Estate backdrop is a hip (if inescapably poky) is quietly hip, the service quietly 78 PENFOLD RD, MAGILL room lined with wine fridges housing radical. Sommelier Dan Sharp’s cool (08) 8301 5551 the bottles that provide a brilliant, confidence with wine matches sees magillestaterestaurant.com largely local counterpoint in the glass. him boldly offer an all-white pairing To finish, a barely set buttermilk that segues smoothly through Views across vineyards over the infused with the unique perfume of a tasting menu from, say, a Loire city. A timeless Keith Cottier building the strawberry eucalypt is a revelation. muscadet that pops with a tartare of with an of-the-moment interior refit. kingfish and black garlic concealed A cellar offer that ties the site to its under rounds of umami-rich baby history as the place where Grange Rockpool Bar & Grill zucchini to a pink sliver of smoked was first made. Staff are highly drilled> 66 HUNTER ST, SYDNEY duck with salty roast turnip, a silken (02) 8078 1900 swede purée and a splash of plum rockpool.com sauce, effortlessly abetted by a spätlese riesling from the Mosel. Chef It’s the exceptional steakhouse that Daniel Puskas offers as compelling and lays claim to having some of the finest coherent a vision of modern Australian seafood in town. But, then, Rockpool food as anyone in the city, making Bar & Grill is the exception to most Sixpenny essential Sydney dining. rules. Somewhere with such a tight lock on the business-lunch crowd has no right being this glamorous, all Restaurant Hubert Deco of line and soaring of column. 15 BLIGH ST, SYDNEY Anywhere with a cellar so dazzling has (02) 9232 0881 no business having a superb cocktail restauranthubert.com bar. And how is it that a menu so sprawling, in the American grill Dripping candles. Bow-tied waiters. tradition, is executed with such Piaf and au poivre, tartare and Tatin. consistent clarity? Meaty, buttery Hubert could so easily have been yet slices of abalone done meunière-style another cookie-cutter bistro, one of might compete with the steaks those Madame Tussauds eateries anywhere else, but here, where the where the patter from the waiters is as ageing and wood-grilling of Australia’s waxy as the food. Instead it crackles best beef is raised to art, there’s no with life, not bound by the old-school chance. Service responds well to details but glorying in them. This challenges, and sharing is the way sprawling basement space is a to profit, so place your faith in your collaboration between the bar czars waiter and carve your way through behind The Baxter Inn and the chef the menu (with no skimping on the from 10 William St. That means the RESTAURANT HUBERT excellent sides), right through to couple in the next booth tapping their AND ITS CLAMS À LA the warm blackberry and almond feet to Sinatra are as likely to be NORMANDE pudding to close. decked out in neck tatts and Ramblin’ PHOTOGRAPHY SCOTT HAWKINS (HUBERT) & WILLIAM MEPPEM (CLAMS) (HUBERT) HAWKINS SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHY

48 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 49 rather than perfectly at ease, but Firedoor chef. While the price-point might beg there’s no mistaking their eagerness. 23-33 MARY ST, SURRY HILLS for a longer sitting, the prospect of Magill Estate could’ve been just the (02) 8204 0800 a glass of wine, meat and greens at most glam tasting room in the country, firedoor.com.au the bar should not be ignored – but chef Scott Huggins has taken it to especially if it’s delicately grilled cos the next level with a tasting menu that Lennox Hastie moves between with translucent sheets of guanciale is both progressive and comforting. Firedoor’s two wood-fired ovens and next to a big-hitting steak. A brilliant Sautéing corn in bone marrow makes the central grills, splitting live marron finale of sticky roasted peaches is it a rich complement to juicy hapuku, in half and cutting 210-day dry-aged sweetened all the more by Minnie while the minimalism of dry-aged steaks straight off the bone. He reads Riperton riffing overhead. Quietly wagyu served simply with black garlic the embers instinctively without confident, beautifully executed. and tomato leaves room for the other breaking a sweat. In line with the sharp guest at the table: superb selections service, the dishes are bright and from the Penfolds back catalogue for a unobtrusive. Coals are tossed below Minamishima luxe drinks pairing. First-class desserts, plump pipis and blown on gently until 4 LORD ST, RICHMOND such as mandarin ice and set honeyed the shells are just ready to pop. Marron (03) 9429 5180 Jersey milk and quince (and a splash turns a fiery hue before it’s plated with minamishima.com.au of ’75 Yquem), conclude an adventure grilled pomelo jewels and zesty coastal in the sublime. greens – just the kind of subtle cooking It’s the rice that gives it away. The you’d expect from a former Etxebarri restaurant itself, tucked behind a discreet façade down a suburban side Dinner by Heston street, is perfectly in keeping with the Blumenthal way things would be done in Tokyo, CROWN TOWERS, LEVEL 3, as is the crisp corporate-cool of the 8 WHITEMAN ST, SOUTHBANK fit-out, warmed gently by the quiet (03) 8582 2061 burble of jazz. But to take a finger of dinnerbyheston.com.au nigiri, the temperature just so, each grain of rice distinct, from Koichi It’s cashed-up, old-school hotel Minamishima is to know the finest glamour at Dinner, from the city-lights sushi in the state. He tops his rice with backdrop to the leather-upholstered beautifully cut swatches of fish from horseshoe booths. It’s also home near and far – fatty, almost crunchy to some of the city’s most refined meat from under the fin of a flounder; cocktails (the clear Bloody Mary is outrageously buttery Japanese a thing of wonder). Bare tables and tuna belly; fine local whiting; saline timber flooring make it a more relaxed Victorian salmon roe folded in a room than when it housed the Fat battleship of luxe nori. There are hot Duck and the food follows suit. Tricks dishes for those not sitting at the MINAMISHIMA. TOP, FROM and surprises have been replaced counter, but really it’s all about the LEFT: KOICHI MINAMISHIMA, with a new à la carte menu of precise sushi. Sommelier Randolph Cheung HAJIME HORIGUCHI AND modern interpretations of historic gives proceedings a gentle twist: rare RANDOLPH CHEUNG British dishes, among them the is the sushi-ya in Ginza that offers much-documented Meat Fruit (chicken wine pairings this en pointe alongside liver parfait in mandarin jelly), a garlic sake and beer options. Pure elegance. and parsley savoury porridge spiked hit the unclothed tables in no time flat, with abalone, the amazingly juicy, followed shortly by rock oysters, briny flavoursome chicken served with Cutler & Co and bright, and tiny fingers of toast grilled lettuces and the unmissable 55-57 GERTRUDE ST, FITZROY topped with fillets of Ortiz anchovy. Tipsy Cake, a boozy, creamy brioche (03) 9419 4888 From there it’s a choice of more small served with pineapple. It’s possible cutlerandco.com.au and delicate things (spanner crab to pop in, too, just for grilled steak sweet and wholesome in a golden with the famed Blumenthal fries. This is how Melbourne likes to party: chicken broth; flounder framed by Exceptional service and a hefty wine a quick sashay through a dining room browned butter sauce and pickled list are givens, as is the charm of MURRAY COD packed with up-for-it-punters, and cucumbers), or going big: a kilo of

this mature, sophisticated diner. AT FIREDOOR (MINAMISHIMA) FIREDOOR) AUCAR & MARCEL SHAW ROB PHOTOGRAPHY then great bread and even better wine dry-aged Angus rib-eye grilled on>

50 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 51 the bone, for instance, or a quarter and black, the polished service and of a suckling pig, roasted and served estimable wine list, and the cabinets Urbane with spiced cauliflower, baby cos of ageing meat at the entrance, which 181 MARY ST, BRISBANE and a sour-cream dressing. Some add the moody drama of a Dutch (07) 3229 2271 compositions border on busy, thrown master’s oil painting. This measured urbanerestaurant.com into contrast, perhaps, by the spare approach is evident on the plate, with elegance of the plates at Marion, the the finest dishes featuring the fewest Urbane (adjective): Refined, polished sister wine bar next door, but the ingredients. To start, there’s crab and courteous. See also the showpiece larger Cutler package – especially the linguine slick with spicy prawn oil restaurant of the Urbane Group, service – trumps it with big-night-out and a hint of kaffir lime, or wood-fired a suitably hushed, clean-cut dining sparkle nonetheless. octopus with hand-pounded pesto and room at the core of their Mary Street the salty thwack of olives. Perfectly fortress. Dining here calls for a little charred steaks are simply adorned perseverance (limited opening hours, Tetsuya’s with a wedge of lemon and mustard. dégustation-only, credit card details 529 KENT ST, SYDNEY There’s nowhere to hide with this style required to confirm a booking), but (02) 9267 2900 of cooking, but the top-notch produce Alejandro Cancino’s meticulous tetsuyas.com and the kitchen’s skill require no cooking ensures the effort is culinary crutches. Refined desserts handsomely rewarded. Although This shrine to refined gastronomy include vanilla slice with burnished the chef works wonders with flesh has been offering patrons its velvety pastry and tonka bean cream. Fine – perfectly tender wagyu beef, for signature confit ocean trout for dining like this comes at a price, but, instance – it’s his plant-based 18 years (26, if you count the original for the most part, it’s worth it. creations that impress the most. Pea Rozelle site) while they muse upon the and buckwheat grains bound as a thick Zen garden at the heart of Tetsuya’s “risotto” and enhanced with gherkin temple and pay homage – or celebrate Franklin powder, nasturtiums and green olives birthdays and corporate deals. 30 ARGYLE ST, HOBART taste as striking as they look. Roasted Tetsuya’s relaxed yet attentive service (03) 6234 3375 FRANKLIN’S DAVID MOYLE cauliflower dressed with a Thai-style team guides your journey as culinary franklinhobart.com.au (LEFT) AND BEN LINDELL coconut soup strikes a blow for cultures meld seamlessly over 10 or cosmopolitan thinking and cooking. so small courses: a succulent octopus A slab of blue-eye trevalla, a wedge Reverential service and well-chosen, shiso salad, perhaps; that famous trout of iceberg and some crunchy wakame. mostly European wines underscore and its unpasteurised roe; marinated How those three basic ingredients Urbane’s merited reputation. toothfish on fregola. The wine could be prepared so perfectly that compendium compels, too, mingling they replay in the mind for weeks the new and the classic, with several afterwards is a secret known only to Ormeggio notable bespoke Tetsuya’s bottlings. Franklin’s chef David Moyle, though D’ALBORA MARINAS, As the dégustation unfolds, you’ll that wood-fired Scotch oven in the THE SPIT, MOSMAN marvel at the consistency of this corner must tell some of the story. (02) 9969 4088 institution – on its sake selection, A very savoury fish congee studded ormeggio.com.au near-encyclopedic sommeliers, with juicy generous mussels makes contemporary art collection and just as much of an impression, as What does it take to be the nation’s swoon-worthy chocolate finale. It’s do heirloom tomatoes tucked into a top-ranked Italian restaurant? It takes not pacy, but then such nurturing fare featherbed of cicely, buckwheat and ambition, a good whack of creativity, is rare, and ought to be savoured. goat’s curd clouds – and the silky bay and more than a few dollars, if leaf and confit lemon ice-cream will Ormeggio is any guide. It doesn’t permeate your dreams. The menu in require a perfect setting. The view Rockpool Bar & Grill this cleverly converted car showroom from the modern dining room onto RIVERSIDE AT CROWN, changes every day, the wine is mostly Middle Harbour? Magical. The walk 8 WHITEMAN ST, SOUTHBANK organic and entirely brilliant, the through the marina’s boat-sales floor (03) 8648 1900 service is genial and the living is easy. to get there? Less so. But the team rockpool.com And with pricing very squarely on the conjures wizardry on the plate, not fair side you’d be mad not to eat least in the Trip Through Italy menu, Neil Perry’s steakhouse is an exercise here daily if proximity allowed. This which transports the happy diner to in restrained elegance. It’s there in the is truly one of the more remarkable ROAST PIGEON the wilds of Piedmont with a bosky

handsome colour palette of Burgundy restaurants in the country right now. (FRANKLIN) BURGESS LUKE PHOTOGRAPHY AT FRANKLIN mulch of hazelnut shavings, chestnut,>

52 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 53 PHOTOGRAPHY JULIAN KINGMA (ESTELLE BY SCOTT PICKETT) & ANDREW FINLAYSON (AUTOMATA) PICKETT) & ANDREW FINLAYSON SCOTT BY JULIAN KINGMA (ESTELLE PHOTOGRAPHY porcini and crisps of Jerusalem and the dining room is in full effect as Estelle by Scott Pickett artichoke, and reimagines risotto alla savvy waiters ferry plates of oysters 245 HIGH ST, NORTHCOTE FROM LEFT: JOSHUA PELHAM, Milanese as al dente carnaroli enriched and and tall glasses blushing (03) 9489 4609 JAMES DOSSAN, SCOTT by saffron and bone marrow, with slices with Campari to an appreciative estellebysp.com PICKETT & STUART NEIL OF of marron the luxe stand-in for osso dolled-up crowd. The Icebergs of now ESTELLE BY SCOTT PICKETT buco. Bottoni are the crowning glory: has evolved to incorporate the modern Scott Pickett’s seductive showpiece “buttons” of perfect pasta filled with a impulses of chef Monty Koludrovic takes northside dining to new heights. hot grilled-Parmesan broth and dusted (bone marrow making a winning Under a sculptural light fitting, deep with roasted malt. Courtly, earnest appearance with lush braised octopus leather chairs flank generous tables service is an asset, especially when it’s on cavatelli and seaweed teaming up and high-backed stools front an a conduit to the exceptional cellar. with fresh fusilli, broccoli, chilli and open kitchen. While Pickett takes anchovy) and a newer natural lean centrestage at the pass, he hasn’t to the wine list while communing resorted to theatrics. Instead, the Icebergs Dining anew with the things that made it dégustation melds native ingredients Room & Bar great in the first place. Namely simple, and contemporary technique. There 1 NOTTS AVE, BONDI expensive proteins such as superb might be snacks of smoky wallaby (02) 9365 9000 steaks and sparely plated seafood, tartare, or cured kingfish anchored by idrb.com handled with care in the kitchen and crunchy radish and cucumber. Perhaps delivered with a wink and a smile by a Cognac-hued kangaroo consommé It’s a bright Bondi afternoon. The sun a floor team as strong as this space with saltbush and salted egg, or a curl is bouncing off the breakers below this has seen in years. The riotous house of Moreton Bay bug draped in sweet most glamorous of beachside eateries, take on the tiramisù makes a perfectly jamón. It’s one high note after another, fitting finale. building in intensity like a crescendo to the duck with spiced cherries and foie gras. Pickett hedges his bets with ICEBERGS DINING desserts, offering first an ethereal ROOM & BAR lavender cream with basil sorbet and burnt fig, followed by crowd-pleasing chocolate mousse with strawberry sorbet and coconut sponge. It’s a polished, considered experience.

Est LEVEL 1, ESTABLISHMENT, 252 GEORGE ST, SYDNEY (02) 9240 3000 merivale.com.au

The theatre starts with the room. Elegant banquettes, soaring columns, pressed-metal ceiling and glorious arched windows set the scene for formal dining that most respected chefs, Peter Doyle, is becoming increasingly rare in and his head chef, Jacob Davey, Sydney. A Champagne trolley adds guarantees class and finesse. to the atmosphere and kicks off A beautiful Moreton Bay bug tail an experience where cloches are with yuzu curd, finger lime and gracefully pulled from plates in kombu butter is a study in balance, tandem and sauces are poured from the cocoa-crusted venison with copper pans by smartly dressed cherries, beetroot and boudin noir waitstaff. The dishes, too, are all rich and generous, and poached quality and tradition, and while rhubarb with cheesecake ice-cream there may be few surprises, the and strawberries is just as it sounds,

PHOTOGRAPHY ROB SHAW (ICEBERGS) & JULIAN KINGMA (ESTELLE) SHAW ROB PHOTOGRAPHY deft execution of one of Australia’s a safe finale from a revered stalwart.> 55 speak to an active kitchen imagination. that’s as dark, theatrical and strangely FROM LEFT: AUTOMATA CHEF CLAYTON Automata WELLS, SOMMELIER TIM WATKINS AND 5 KENSINGTON ST, Risk doesn’t always equal reward: moving as the Bill Henson photograph RESTAURANT MANAGER ABBY MEINKE CHIPPENDALE plum, macadamia milk and fenugreek on the wall, and continues with the (02) 8277 8555 oil tastes even less harmonious than dance of white-jacketed waiters of automata.com.au it sounds, while ill-considered wine long standing. The menu has always pairings jar. But then along comes expressed continuity with Italian If the name conjures images of a dazzling “strudel” comprising papery tradition rather than the ego of something chilly, the reality is anything apple flakes, thyme and hay-infused any chef. These are simple, good, but robotic. Sure, the decorative cream to remind you how great this familiar things, done exceedingly well. detailing, involving valves and steel renegade can be. Angelhair pasta with spanner crab flanges, has a touch of the Fritz Lang is a typical example, glossed with a about it, but the warmth and buzz of prawn bisque in place of olive oil for the place (projected in no small part Flower Drum a deep Italian umami effect. Classics by the impressive floor team) makes it 17 MARKET LA, MELBOURNE such as veal cotoletta and porchetta more of an engine room than assembly (03) 9662 3655 – the latter sweetened smartly by line. All the pistons are firing in the flowerdrum.melbourne a sage-topped baked apple – both open kitchen, certainly. The lumpen achieve the crisp surfaces one desires. plates are duff, but chef Clayton Courtly service and superior Millefoglie, with layers of light pastry, Wells’s compositions are perfectly Cantonese cooking are immediately vanilla cream and caramelised apple, tuned. He presents onions both apparent to even the greenest makes for an elegant ending. For the pickled and cooked to softness as a of horns, but it’s the details that finest Negroni south of the river, try foil for grilled bonito on kombu butter, the Drum’s regulars savour: the Bar Di Stasio next door. throws a toasty scatter of za’atar over untouched retro pleasures of the duck hearts and roasted lettuce for dining room, the acres between texture, and slips the surprise of tables. The menu is packed with Grossi Florentino capers into an inspired, texturally thrills, but devotees prefer the 80 BOURKE ST, MELBOURNE daring dessert of yoghurt sorbet, plum Socratic method: ask the staff (03) 9662 1811 and bee pollen. The set five courses fly what’s looking good and let them grossiflorentino.com fast and fun, but the bar menu is guide you in its preparation. The pick perfect for even shorter attention of today’s catch might be whiting; They don’t make restaurants like this spans, especially taken in conjunction have it delicately battered, they’ll any more. The royal-blue carpets. AUTOMATA’S PRAWN, with the feisty, foxy drinks offer. recommend, with a nest of enoki The wood panelling. Napier Waller’s ASPARAGUS AND mushrooms. How best to enjoy the 84-year-old murals. It’d be easy to BARLEY MISO jade tiger abalone? With slippery write Grossi Florentino off as Esquire swatches of mung bean noodle antiquated, but the more pertinent 145 EAGLE ST, BRISBANE to contrast the shellfish’s tender thing to do is surrender to Guy Grossi’s (07) 3220 2123 firmness. This all comes at a cost, vision of old-school elegance. Suited esquire.net.au but the quality is on the plate, in the waiters uphold fine-dining traditions, just-so crispness of green vegetables, from attentive service to the theatre of Esquire isn’t a restaurant for everyone. say, or the crystalline quality of the avvinare, the Italian ritual of rinsing a Control freaks, for instance, won’t like broth holding a dumpling bulging glass with the wine to be served. While letting the kitchen choose the set-list, with crab and scallop meat. Make the cooking can lean more modern just as the hard-of-hearing will it all up on the genteel mark-ups on than Italian – a painterly arrangement struggle with the acoustics of the stark the weightier end of that excellent of mussels, yabbies and almond sauce room. The disengaged service, too, wine list. A tour de force. is of the moment, as is an intricate seems at odds with the restaurant’s buttermilk panna cotta, milk sorbet reputation. Yet, despite all this, Ryan and milk crisp dessert – the kitchen Squires’ bold cooking continues to Café Di Stasio gratifies most when it does the least. lure eaters craving the cutting edge. 31 FITZROY ST, ST KILDA Bright rabbit agrodolce, egg-yolk Seafood is a strong point. An oversized (03) 9525 3999 ravioli and roast spatchcock stay true prawn is served with a fermented distasio.com.au to the room’s classic lines, as does the lettuce leaf filled with green garlic mighty cellar. White tablecloth dining and orange marmalade. Crumbed and Café Di Stasio represents the ideal of like this doesn’t come cheap, but frills char-grilled cuttlefish with finger lime dining as a particularly adult pleasure. like canapés and palate-cleansers help

and a slick of savoury mushroom sauce (SUTOMOTA) ANDREW FINALYSON PHOTOGRAPHY The experience starts entering a room put prices in perspective.> 57 Aria lines. A lush Champagne generosity in the bespoke duck breast, all crisp skin and 1 MACQUARIE ST, SYDNEY lobster entrée pairs with one of service and the meal itself rosy flesh alongside swirls (02) 9240 2255 its favourite bedfellows, a rich is taken over several courses of gingerbread cream and ariarestaurant.com kombu butter sauce. Roasted in a leisurely manner, but the crumble. Meticulously grilled breast of corn-fed duck sings crisply monochrome terrace Rangers Valley oyster blade If it’s sparkle you’re after, keep the precise tune you’d expect space is small, the wine list needs nothing more than a your senses trained on the when it sits with caramelised is tight and the plates tangle of watercress to shine, arresting harbour views that onions and figs, and with the themselves are composed but a glass of Si Vintners make up the fourth wall of exception of an unusual hit of with meticulous care. There’s Cachorro from one of the this lofty Sydney institution. mushroom in a caramel tart, nothing extraneous in a bowl state’s most-awarded cellars Its quietly moneyed clientele desserts play by the rules, too. of shiitakes and scallops, the certainly doesn’t hurt. To cap isn’t looking for flash or If it’s a special occasion or hot, rich broth of fermented off the meal, creamed rice with showmanship from the food there are big clients in town, mushrooms and black garlic honey cake, pomegranate and – happy instead to let the Aria can be relied upon to hold poured at the table poaching toasted rice sorbet merits a reliably luxurious menu, the line.uphold fine-dining the shellfish to a bare opacity, little belt loosening.> spectacular wine list and traditions, from attentive the merest scattering of skyscraper prices create a service to the theatre of. buckwheat bringing texture. sense of drama. That’s not Shavings of frozen foie gras, to say the food doesn’t live meanwhile, melt into cauliflower up to its promise; it does, Oscillate Wildly and crunchy fried grains of ARIA BRISBANE CHEF if you assume its promise is 275 AUSTRALIA ST, Job’s tears in a microcosm of BEN RUSSELL beautifully cooked dishes NEWTOWN carefully balanced flavours and that rarely colour outside the (02) 9517 4700 textures accented with maple oscillatewildly.com.au syrup. Desserts are no less inventive; miso and sesame Concision could be said to be a are the surprise trump cards theme at Oscillate Wildly. Sure, in a clever play on white the name (taken from a Smiths chocolate. A must for any song) is exuberant, there’s passionate diner.

Aria Brisbane OSCILLATE WILDLY EAGLE STREET PIER, (AND LEFT) 1 EAGLE ST, BRISBANE (07) 3233 2555 ariarestaurant.com

It took an abundance of timber, glass and Mercedes-Benz leather to construct the well-upholstered interior of this riverfront destination. Seven years after Aria’s début, all is in mint condition. There’s pomp and ceremony aplenty, which makes some of the service slips (such as the barely cursory wine service) all the more surprising. A precision-drilled kitchen sets things right. Grilled Moreton Bay bug is deftly paired with a subtle sea urchin-infused . Tartly sweet beetroot and rhubarb

PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER (OSCILLATE WILDLY) & AJ MOLLER (BEN RUSSELL) WILDLY) WILL HORNER (OSCILLATE PHOTOGRAPHY pickle offsets the richness of

58 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 59 a menu that teams saltbush are surprisingly welcome in LUMI’S “EVERGREEN” Pilu at Freshwater DESSERT END OF MOORE RD, lamb with sea succulents, supple chitarra with hanks of FRESHWATER and pear soufflé with salted Moreton Bay bug meat. The (02) 9938 3331 liquorice ice-cream, there’s a modern decorative touches pilu.com.au genuinely interesting balance might not please all comers, here between the traditional but engaged service and There are worse places to put and the modern. The wine carefully crafted wine matches a Sardinian restaurant than list favours classic French make LuMi shine. by the sea, and Pilu is close and Australian labels (the enough that the waves almost Champagne options are lap at its feet. The interior impressive), but the chefs are Co-op Dining might be more House & Garden unafraid to mix and match 2/11 REGAL PL, EAST PERTH than La Grande Bellezza, but influences – rock flathead, say, (08) 9221 0404 sprightly staff and impeccable served with puffed quinoa and co-opdining.com.au sourcing keep the focus on pickled cucumber, charred freshness. The restaurant is abalone with wasabi and ponzu If the two-bite wonders that justly famous for its wine list, – and manage an impressive kick off dinner here aren’t a kind of mash note to the strike rate. With the offer of Perth’s best snacks, they’re island that calls vermentino multi-course set menus in a certainly its most interesting. home. The sommelier steers room of linen-dressed tables, From dainty duck heart and through it ably, even lovingly, this dining is fine but free of blueberry toasts to beef and fine wines can be had any stiff formality the term tendon puffed into chicharrón- without dire fiscal consequences. might imply. style crackers, these opening> There are three menus on the weekend: a dégustation, a tradizionale and an innovativo. LuMi But supple octopus in a paprika 56 PIRRAMA RD, PYRMONT crust with a potato and parsley (02) 9571 1999 cake, and tagliolini with lumidining.com Moreton Bay bug, bottarga and cherry tomatoes manage to be A glass box on the end of both traditional and innovative a wharf, LuMi is a beacon of at the same time. Seafood life and vigour. At its heart is might seem the natural choice the open kitchen, where chef with the deep-blue view out the Federico Zanellato yokes the window, but the roast suckling fire of his imagination to the pig remains the island’s precision of his technique. (literally) golden exemplar. The result is dishes that brim with good ideas, but are coolly delineated by the bounds of Woodland House good taste and clarity of 78 WILLIAMS RD, PRAHRAN expression. The battery of (03) 9525 2178 snacks that kicks off the woodlandhouse.com.au tasting-style menu signals the chef’s interest in exploring the Dining archaeologists may meeting of Japan and Italy, spot vestiges of former owner most notably in a sublimely Jacques Reymond in this grand textured play on chawanmushi Victorian mansion, but the done as a satiny steamed French chef’s avid successors, parmesan custard. Tiny, Thomas Woods and Hayden perfect agnolotti burst gently McFarland, have made the under the tooth to reveal a restaurant their own. From the superbly savoury tomato and Nordic-influenced décor and caper dashi filling, while hints

relaxed but precise service to of lemon thyme and cumquat SHAW ROB PHOTOGRAPHY XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX PHOTOGRAPHY LUMI

60 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 61 dishes exemplify Co-op Dining’s more is sometimes more. Lûmé source-local, cook-global credo. That’s certainly been the 226 COVENTRY ST, “SEA CORN AND DAIRY It’s not all finger food and credo of the formidable SOUTH MELBOURNE COW” AT LÛMÉ animal offcuts, though. Rosy cellar, although the return (03) 9690 0185 duck breast with roasted oyster of sommelier and long-time restaurantlume.com mushrooms and glassy shards Neil Perry collaborator of fried cabbage is a picture of Matthew Bell brings Shaun Quade’s food at Lûmé earthy savour, while an oxheart welcome vim to the wine can get trippy. The baby corn tomato filled with house-made service. Unfussy desserts cradled in a taco and perched ricotta shows a lightness of like feathery doughnut balls on a corn husk-lined coconut touch. Genteel staff, while with apricot compote ensure shell is actually grilled camel knowledgeable about the food a sweet exit. hump. The honey served with and thoughtful beer and wine a burnt barley turns options, don’t always crackle out to be eel-flavoured, while with the same energy as the Botanic Gardens powdered liver shares a plate kitchen. We’d love to see Restaurant with smoky abalone. Mackerel Co-op Dining take that next PLANE TREE DR, ADELAIDE mascarpone, another edgy step, but, for now, parting (08) 8223 3526 concept, adds further dimension shots such as honey and botanicgardensrestaurant.com.au to sunflower and chestnut lavender ice-cream with porridge. A brilliant dessert miso caramel close the night Pretty as a picture, the neat, pairs sea urchin-infused frozen on a high. And the offer of white octagonal pavilion in meringue with “the last fruits of a freewheeling five-course the centre of Adelaide Botanic summer”. Drink pairings bounce vegetarian menu served on Garden is a dining room in from sake to beer to Madeira to Tuesdays? Very cool. tune with its surroundings. Hunter Valley sémillon; really, Chef Paul Baker emerged the only sensible thing to do in 2015 as a rising star, is to sit back and enjoy the Rockpool Bar & Grill harvesting daily from the show. Quade and company CROWN PERTH, GREAT garden to cleverly inform are committed to pushing the EASTERN HWY, BURSWOOD a vibrant seasonal menu. boat out on all fronts, from (08) 6252 1900 The operation has now how bookings are taken right rockpool.com ratcheted up a gear with new through to petits fours. It’s platoon of well-drilled waiters. refining touches: elegant stone an enjoyable ride, even when Most convincing is a kitchen A candle-lined walkway. A crockery, more-accomplished some dishes fall short of their that relishes competing with gilded room designed by Grant floor staff and international ambition. Smooth, informed the arresting views of the city Cheyne. Engaging, snappily bottles added to a South service helps, as does the sleek centre. Native ingredients dressed staff. These are some Australia-focused wine list. room, all timber, copper and anchor the menu, but the reasons why Rockpool remains Baker is daring with textural linen detailing. kitchen draws inspiration from the eater’s best bet at the combinations, yet works in all corners. Tender marron casino. As you’d expect from a gentle spectrum of clean, is paired with a rich beurre- a restaurant that’s dry-ageing bright flavours. The results Wildflower noisette mayonnaise, while six-figures’ worth of beef at are intricate and intriguing, 1 CATHEDRAL AVE, PERTH smoked kangaroo, blueberry- any given moment, protein as seen in charred asparagus (08) 6168 7855 spiked tapioca and thyme underscores Rockpool’s with cured egg yolk and a wildflowerperth.com make for a pretty arrangement. luxe steakhouse concept: salad of toasted quinoa and Muntries are an unexpected sweetbreads with almonds sprouted lentils, say, or sand This handsome house of glass accompaniment to juicy, and orange, perhaps, or gamy, whiting with caramelised and marble might just change dry-aged duck; the sommelier’s wood-roasted Wagin duck. octopus, warrigal greens and your attitude towards rooftop pick of a restrained Faber That said, Rockpool’s surf grilled baby leeks. Desserts restaurants for the better. It shiraz from the Swan Valley might outshine its turf. Juicy dodge intense sweetness doesn’t hurt that the rooftop in even more so. Desserts such charcoal-roasted rankin cod for savoury and astringent question is that of Como The as airy milk crisps with is a convincing masterclass in notes in a memorable Treasury, Australia’s flashest candied desert lime and simplicity, while tea-smoked whipped coconut with new hotel. Or that David Best, the restaurant’s own salmon and finger limes with flaxseed, lemon gels and former Rockpool general rooftop honey accentuate

coconut cream proves that lime chips on avocado. PETER TARASIUK PHOTOGRAPHY manager, oversees Wildflower’s the fine in fine dining.

62 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 63 OCEAN HARVEST The seafood of Australia Australia, being the world’s largest island, is surrounded by water. Its miles and miles of coastline, running from the tropical tip of Queensland to the icy southern reaches of Tasmania, and flanked by the Pacific and Indian oceans, make for both variety and abundance when it comes to seafood. It’s a staple of both cooking at home for Australians, and a focus of the nation’s best restaurants. Seafood is also at the top of the list for visitors to Australia who love to eat. So with that in mind, we 3 present a quick guide to the tastiest of Australian marine life – and where to enjoy it. MARRON Cherax tenuimanus, MUD CRAB Cherax cainii Scylla serrata Speaking of meaty crustaceans, visitors to Australia who like The king of Australian seafood, the to cook and eat are delighted when they discover the marron. 5SYDNEY ROCK mighty mud crab offers meat that’s It’s a type of freshwater crayfish that’s native to the rivers much sweeter than the name might and creeks of Western Australia and South Australia, and OYSTERS suggest. The best specimens are it has the most favourable ratio of meat to shell of any Saccostrea glomerata caught wild off the tropical coasts of crustacean in the world. It also has a remarkable pure Australian waters are 1 home to three types the Northern Territory, Queensland sweetness that’s captivating to chefs. of oyster: the Pacific and New South Wales. They commonly TRY IT: with young coconut and koji butter at Momofuku oyster, the flat angasi weigh around a kilogram and though Seiobo in Sydney, or in scrambled eggs at Saint Peter (the same species they’re available year round, peak in Sydney. as the belon oyster supply is from January to April in of ), and the Queensland and New South Wales, Sydney rock oyster. and May to August in the Northern The rock oyster has Territory. The richness of their meat a smooth, triangular shell, and a subtler stands up well to strong flavours. flavour than the TRY IT: stir-fried with XO sauce Pacific. Most rock at Spice Temple in Melbourne, oysters are produced or in congee with palm hearts in southern NSW, ROCK LOBSTER at Quay in Sydney. with other leases Palinuridae in Queensland and Unlike its Atlantic cousin, the Australian rock Western Australia. lobster has no claws, so all the prized meat is Part of the traditional in the carapace. In many southern states rock diet of Indigenous lobsters (also known as spiny lobsters) are MURRAY4 COD Australians, rock referred to as crayfish, which can be confusing Maccullochella peelii oysters have been because true crayfish are a freshwater catch; Not a true cod at all, Australia’s largest freshwater farmed in Australia rock lobsters live in seawater. At any rate, they fish nonetheless has a firm white flesh that is since the 1870s. have a firmly textured flesh, which is popular in deeply succulent. It’s named for the Murray, part TRY THEM: with Australia served sashimi-style, but also takes well of Australia’s largest river system, and is mostly sweet vinegar, shallot to grilling, poaching and baking. Tropical rock 2 found in New South Wales and Victoria. It’s and chives at Bacash lobsters are the best for sashimi, while southern no longer legal to sell wild-caught Murray cod, in Melbourne, or with rock lobsters are preferred for cooking. but farms have sprung up to meet demand. mignonette and TRY IT: in rock lobster rolls along with TRY IT: with shavings of abalone, snow peas, dark rye bread at mayonnaise and watercress at Supernormal black fungus and a ginger and spring onion The Boathouse on in Melbourne, or sautéed with garlic and e-fu vinaigrette at Est in Sydney, or within cooee of the Blackwattle Bay noodles at Me Wah in Hobart. ILLUSTRATIONS LAUREN HAIRE LAUREN ILLUSTRATIONS Murray itself at Stefano’s Restaurant in Mildura. in Sydney.>

64 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 65 OCEAN HARVEST

YABBIES Cherax destructor BARRAMUNDI A freshwater Lates calcarifer crustacean, the yabby Perhaps Australia’s most famous closely resembles fin-fish, the barramundi takes its name the crawfish popular from an Aboriginal word meaning “river in the southern US. fish with large scales”. They live in rivers The most common of the Australian and estuaries, predominantly in the CORAL8 TROUT crayfish, it’s found wild northern reaches of Western Australia, Plectropomus in waterholes, dams the Northern Territory and Queensland. leopardus and creeks throughout 6 At their largest, they can be 1.5 metres With its red skin and south-eastern Australia bright blue spots, the long and weigh 50 kilograms, but the and south-western coral trout (technically typical wild-caught fish is under six Queensland. Getting a rock cod) is nothing kilos, while the farmed specimens are at the meat is if not distinctive. A reef labour-intensive, frequently harvested at plate-size. The fish, it’s caught wild in but it’s flavoursome meat is pale, in medium-to-large flakes, the northern parts of enough to make contains only a few, large bones, and Australia, at its peak ABALONE 10 it worthwhile. is very well suited to barbecuing. from September to Haliotis rubra, stir-fried fried with surf clams, pickled November. It’s usually TRY THEM: TRY IT: with sticky pork, sea Haliotis laevigata available between squid, banana flower and tamarind parsley, samphire and Australian abalone is in such high 500 grams and at Nu Nu at Palm Cove, or sautéed sea blite at Billy Kwong, demand in the markets of Hong Kong four kilograms in with garlic chives at Flower Drum or with clotted cream, and Tokyo that it can be hard to find restaurants, but can in Melbourne. lemon jam and pikelets grow to more than in the restaurants of Australia. Of the at Bennelong in 20 kilos. It’s mildly 18 species of the valuable mollusc found Sydney. flavoured and has in Australia, the two most recognisable few bones. are greenlip and blacklip abalones. The TRY IT: steamed with blacklip is mostly caught wild in the potatoes at The Fish waters of Tasmania, typically harvested House on the Gold at around 350 grams, while the greenlip Coast, or with ginger is the species most often cultivated in and spring onions aquaculture, in South Australia, and is PIPIS at Red Emperor in Melbourne. frequently sold at a smaller size. To Donax7 deltoides make the most of abalone’s unique So popular is the classic pipis stir-fried in XO sauce and texture, the flesh is usually cooked vermicelli noodles at the famed Cantonese restaurant 9 either hot and fast, or very slowly for Golden Century, it might well be considered Sydney’s several hours. signature dish. Pipis are related to the cockle, a kind of clam TRY IT: sautéed and served with with a wedge-shaped shell typically around six centimetres maltagliati pasta at Rockpool Bar in diameter. They’re found in sandy surf beaches all around & Grill in Sydney, or roasted whole Australia, and contain firm, meaty flesh. in kelp at Franklin in Hobart. TRY THEM: stir-fried with XO sauce and vermicelli at Golden Century in Sydney, naturally.

66 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 67 THE BEST OF THE 08 8981 7092) is still buzzing, with NORTHERN TERRITORY its funky laneway vibe and Korean barbecue food. Lazy Susan’s Eating Top End dining is more enticing than House (9/21 Cavenagh St, Darwin, ever, starting with a slew of vibrant 08 8981 0735) serves wonderful duck new offerings in the casual daytime and other South East Asian dishes, North by north-west realm. Besser Kitchen & Brew Bar while The Pearl Darwin (Shop 9, (Shop 6, 116 Coonawarra Rd, 27 Smith St, Darwin, 0435 821 648) Tropical flavours abound in Australia’s Winnellie, 08 8984 3254) and its older is known for clever conceits such far reaches. Here’s a round-up of the best sibling, Laneway Specialty Coffee as lobster tortellini with scallops on to be found in the Top End and Broome. (4/1 Vickers St, Parap, 08 8941 4511), cauliflower purée. PM Eat & Drink both excel at breakfast and brunch (T1, 56 Smith St, Darwin, 08 8941 3925) fare – think kimchi and mozzarella is also worth investigating for tapas, jaffles at the former, coconut açai as is the fun, circus-themed Lola’s bowls at the latter – as well as Pergola (48 Marina Blvd, Larrakeyah, top-drawer coffee. Another welcome 08 8941 5711) for burgers and pizza, expansion occurred when the owners and Rorkes Beer Wine Food (22 Smith of Alley Cats Patisserie (14/69 St, Darwin, 08 8942 1000), an elegant Mitchell St, Darwin, 08 7978 8679) pub in a refurbished old bank. Wharf opened The Rabbithole (Shop 2, One Food & Wine (Building 3, 44 The Mall, Darwin, 08 8942 2692), 19 Kitchener Dr, Darwin Waterfront, serving satisfying salads and 08 8941 0033), meanwhile, specialises sandwiches, pies and pastries. in wood-fired , fish and offal. In terms of restaurants, Little There’s even a suckling pig feasting Miss Korea (Austin La, Darwin, menu for true sybarites.>

HOT PROPERTY Kings Canyon, Red Centre. Opposite: Darwin’s waterfront. AUSTRALIA TOURISM PHOTOGRAPHY & NICK RAINS (KINGS CANYON) ALLAN DIXON 69 LOCAL FLAVOUR Wildman Wilderness Lodge, Arnhem Land. Opposite: Cape Leveque, north of Broome.

superb tasting menu to in-house guests and a small number of fortunate outsiders. In Alice Springs, Hanuman (82 Barrett Dr, Alice Springs, 08 8953 7188) has reopened to serve the same reliably excellent Thai, Indian and Nonya food as its mothership venue in Darwin, while Epilogue Lounge (Shop 1, 58 Todd St, Alice Springs, 08 8953 4206) is winning fans with tapas and live music. For reliable Chinese food, try Confucius Palace Dumpling (10/63 Todd St, Alice Springs, 08 8952 3633).

BEST OF BROOME

The Aarli (Shop 2, 6 Hamersley St, Broome, 08 9192 5529) isn’t just one of the dining options nearest to the During the dry season, from May airport, it’s one of Broome’s best to October, head for the Nightcliff places to eat. Expect modern Asian foreshore to visit pop-up restaurants flavours breakfast, lunch and dinner such as Cucina Sotto le Stelle from former Stokehouse owner Nick (Seabreeze Carpark, Chapman Rd, Wendland. Nearby at Azuki (Shop 1, Nightcliff, 0449 731 490) for simple 15 Napier Tce, Broome, 08 9193 7211), Italian or the Jetty & The Fish Scott Thorpe offers pleasing takes on (259 Casuarina Dr, Nightcliff, Japanese standards, while small bar 0424 494 057) on Thursdays, 18 Degrees (Shop 4, 63 Robinson St, Saturdays and Sundays for Broome, 08 9192 7915) sticks to the exemplary fish and chips. prevailing casual small-plates and For more polished dining options, good-drinks blueprint. Over at your best bets are Char Restaurant Cafe d’Amore (Jones Pl, Broome, (cnr The Esplanade & Knuckey St, 08 9192 7606), it’s all about pizze Darwin, 08 8981 4544), Pee Wee’s at and big Italian flavours alfresco. the Point (Lot 5775, Alec Fong Lim Dr, For something a little more polished, East Point Reserve, 08 8981 6868), set sail for Cable Beach Club (Cable and SkyCity Casino’s Evoo and Il Beach Rd, Cable Beach, 08 9192 0400). Piatto restaurants (Gilruth Ave, Mindil Masterly Italian remains the draw at the Beach, 08 8943 8940). hotel’s Club Restaurant (08 9192 0411), Outside Darwin, the pickings are while Zensai (08 9192 0471) and a little slimmer. Cicada Lodge (Gorge Rambutan (08 9192 0479) specialise Rd, Katherine, 1300 146 743), about in Japanese and South East Asian

three hours’ drive south, offers a hawker flavours respectively. FISHER & JAMES (LODGE) ADRIAN BROWN AUSTRALIA TOURISM PHOTOGRAPHY

70 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 71 XXXXXX Ten wonderful winery cellar door experiences GIANT STEPS Yarra Valley, Victoria The town of Healesville in the heart1 of the Yarra Valley east of Melbourne is wedged between vineyards and forest-covered mountains. This big, buzzy cellar door/restaurant/bar on the main street offers daily tastings of the fantastic Giant Steps wines (look for the distinctive single-vineyard chardonnays and pinot noirs) as well as comfy sofas, wood-fired pizze, great coffee and brilliant artisan bread. This cellar door is a popular hangout for the locals as well as the constant stream of visitors from the city and further afield. Very relaxed, very welcoming. giantstepswine.com.au

GIANT STEPS’ SEXTON VINEYARD

TAHBILK Nagambie Lakes, Victoria

TAHBILK A visit to Tahbilk is like walking into the past: down a narrow country lane lined with ancient mulberry trees, past gnarly shiraz vines that 2 date back to the 1860s, over a rickety bridge to the beautiful historic wooden winery buildings From the small and cosy to the grand and historic; from intimate and quiet underground cellars. The wines, fireside chats with artisan winemakers to afternoons spent too, are gloriously old-fashioned: long-lived, cellarworthy white marsanne, deeply earthy wandering through awe-inspiring museums and art galleries; from shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. Tahbilk also old wineries with dirt floors to new wineries with gleaming boasts an extensive rejuvenated natural restaurants – Australia’s cellar doors offer something for every wetlands area. Visitors can either walk or take wine lover. The 10 featured here are just a handful of the standout a cruise along the eco-trail, while appreciating cellar door experiences to be found out there in wine country – the tranquil billabongs and native forest of this quintessentially Australian landscape. personal favourites from more than two decades spent travelling tahbilk.com.au through this country’s regions. Think of these as your starting NEIL LARSON,

point – the first steps on your journey of discovery. DURRANT (TAHBILK) JAMIE PHOTOGRAPHY TAHBILK WINEMAKER

72 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 73 CULLEN WINES BELLWETHER Coonawarra, South Australia

Visiting Bellwether is like hanging out at a friend’s house – if your friend lived in a converted stone shearing shed built in the 1860s by Chinese labourers en route to the goldfields, that is. Winemaker Sue Bell offers personalised tastings of her Coonawarra cabernet and other excellent wines in front of a wood fire in what feels like her living room. Bell also holds popular events here every few months such as the BELLWETHER midwinter Sips in the Sticks lunch 4 hosted by Bell and a bunch of her winemaker mates from across the country; you can even camp on-site in a paddock behind the cellar door, under 400-year-old red gum trees. PENFOLDS MAGILL bellwether-wines.myshopify.com ESTATE Adelaide, South Australia

On the outskirts of Adelaide, Magill Estate is the birthplace MAGILL ESTATE – both literally and “spiritually” – of RESTAURANT 3 Australia’s most famous red wine, Penfolds Grange. There are so many great CULLEN WINES experiences to be enjoyed here: you can Margaret River, Western Australia visit Grange Cottage, the original The Cullen family was among a band of winemaking pioneers who 19th-century home of Dr Christopher and established the first vineyards in this far-flung region on the south-west Mary Penfold, founders of the estate; tour coast of Western Australia back in the 1960s, and present-day winemaker the cellars – still in use today – where Vanya Cullen has continued the tradition by converting the vineyards and extensive kitchen garden to the biodynamic system of organic farming. winemaker Max Schubert created Grange The results can be tasted in the cellar door and superb restaurant: Hermitage in the early 1950s; treat exquisitely elegant but intensely flavoured chardonnay and cabernet yourself to a private tutored tasting of (and much more) in the glass and stunningly fresh ingredients on Penfolds top wines; dine in the bistro, the plate. One of the best food and wine experiences in the country. Kitchen, or award-winning restaurant. cullenwines.com.au Both have sweeping views across the Magill vineyard and out towards the city. penfolds.com

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SAMUEL’S GORGE CELLAR DOOR MOORILLA Hobart, Tasmania

Take the private ferry from the wharf in the centre of Hobart up the Derwent River to MONA, one of the world’s most incredible new art galleries, and you’ll discover it’s been built underneath 6 one of Tasmania’s oldest and best vineyards and wineries, Moorilla. Once you’ve had your fill of old and new art in the gallery, taste through the range of adventurous wines in the sleek, modern cellar door, then stroll across to the fabulous restaurant, The Source, and plunder its staggeringly extensive wine list. You could spend days here and not get bored – in fact, you can spend days here, in the luxury MONA Pavilions overlooking the river. moorilla.com.au

SAMUEL’S GORGE McLaren Vale, South Australia

There are plenty of glamorous cellar doors lining the main roads of the rolling McLaren Vale region south of Adelaide, which makes finding this small, low-key, out-of-the-way winery in an old 1850s stone shed up on the hill such a rare, almost secret joy. Winemaker Justin McNamee loves nothing more than to sit down in his cellar door over a glass of one of his rich reds – an earthy grenache, perhaps, or a sumptuous tempranillo – and have a yarn with visitors. It sounds simple, and it is – refreshingly so: a down-to-earth, one-on-one experience that reminds you what’s really at the heart of wine culture. gorge.com.au

MOORILLA XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX PHOTOGRAPHY (MOORILLA) BRETT BOARDMAN PHOTOGRAPHY 76 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 7 XXXXXX

TYRRELL’S TYRRELL’S VINES IN THE Hunter Valley, New South Wales HUNTER VALLEY

You can’t visit the historic Hunter Valley, north of Sydney, and not visit Tyrrell’s – with 160 years of winemaking history, the place is an institution. Indeed, the slab hut built by Edward Tyrrell when he arrived here in 1858 still stands near the entrance to the big old cellar door. The Tyrrell’s wines available for tasting here are regarded as Hunter Valley benchmarks, particularly the long-lived Vat 1 sémillon, the rich Vat 47 chardonnay and the deeply earthy shiraz wines made from some of the region’s oldest vines. Tours of the old dirt-floor cellar give visitors a great insight into how it must have felt to make wine here a century ago. tyrrells.com.au

FOXEYS HANGOUT SEPPELTSFIELD Mornington Peninsula, Victoria Barossa Valley, South Australia The bucolic Mornington Peninsula, south10 of Melbourne, There are just so many good reasons to visit features vistas of plunging vine-covered hills and gum-tree- 9 this remarkable place it’s hard to know where fringed gullies. Drink in the scene at Foxey’s as you drink the to begin: perhaps the magnificently restored winery’s excellent pinot gris and pinot noir, lounging on the historic winery buildings (Seppeltsfield was wide deck overlooking the vineyard, and enjoying a laid-back established in 1851), some of which house lunch of excellent tapas-style dishes cooked up by owner- the renowned Jam Factory craft and design winemaker Tony Lee. This small, family-run winery also offers studios, or the fabulous on-site restaurant, the rare opportunity to get involved with a hands-on “make Fino, which offers some of the best food and your own sparkling wine” workshop. A very popular spot wine of any winery restaurant in Australia. with the locals, so bookings are strongly recommended. The highlight, though, has to be the daily foxeys-hangout.com.au tours through the priceless collection of FOXEYS HANGOUT barrels of ancient fortified wines dating WINERY back to the 19th century. Fancy trying SEPPELTSFIELD a wine made in 1912, the same year the WINEMAKER FIONA DONALD IN THE Titanic sank? Well, you can at Seppeltsfield. FOR MORE ON AUSTRALIA’S WINE EXPERIENCES CENTENNIAL CELLAR seppeltsfield.com.au SEE ULTIMATEWINERYEXPERIENCES.COM.AU.

78 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 79 OUT OF TOWN

NEW SOUTH WALES charred leek and a crisp potato-water Fleet wafer and the unexpected addition of 2/16 THE TERRACE (VIA FINGAL ST) pickled elder leaves. Desserts impress, BRUNSWICK HEADS not least the yoghurt soft-serve with (02) 6685 1363 Biota honey. There are good things COAST TO COAST fleet-restaurant.com.au here – the room, the warm and welcoming service and bold choices From Margaret River to Port Douglas and Bowral to the Adelaide Hills, Nimble by name, small and perfectly in the kitchen. One thing Biota is not Australia offers some amazing regional food experiences using the formed by nature, Fleet is concise in is run-of-the-mill. freshest local ingredients but drawing inspiration from around the everything from floor plan (a modern wine bar coolly fitted out with a wide planet. Here are some of our favourites – from vineyard to tropical beach. concrete counter and lush bespoke Paper Daisy plates) to wine list and menu, but HALCYON HOUSE, 21 CYPRESS CRES, entirely generous in spirit. Much of CABARITA BEACH that is communicated by the warmth (02) 6676 1444 of the welcome from co-owner Astrid halcyonhouse.com.au McCormack, and her passion for Fleet’s wine list, and the remarkable eats Is this the Northern Rivers or the conjured from the tiny kitchen by her Riviera? Pandanus-filtered ocean partner, chef Josh Lewis. Caper-like glimpses are a giveaway, but smartly pickled nasturtium buds and lightly attired and accented staff and the charred curls of guanciale are the blue-and-white designer décor fuel elegant foil for gently torched tuna, plenty of Côte d’Azur fantasies. Since while an anchovy-spiked mayo makes Paper Daisy’s opening, the menu has the sweetbread “schnitzel” on rounds morphed to a fixed format, encouraging of sliced white the most moreish bar DIY mini dégustations. Openers like sandwich on the eastern seaboard. the smoked raw beef with a feisty Clever ideas abound, many of them tartare, thinly sliced dried watermelon, upcycling lesser-loved produce into creamy egg yolk and radish exemplify delicacies, while the care with details, the sharp execution and inventive> right through to cheese and dessert, keeps things high-definition all the way. Destination dining. CHICKEN WING, OCTOPUS AND KOHLRABI AT FLEET. Biota Dining OPPOSITE: THREE BLUE 18 KANGALOON RD, BOWRAL DUCKS, BYRON BAY (02) 4862 2005 biotadining.com

Biota Dining sits low in the Bowral landscape, all Scandi-cool polished concrete, mid-century-inspired furniture, scrubbed timber and low light. Local, seasonal ingredients are the focus and several snacks are a happy introduction, whether with fine wine or the interesting soft options. Subsequent dishes are a mixed bag. Sweet spanner crab and slivers of white peach are beautifully delicate, albeit overpowered by the fermented cabbage beneath; beef cooked over

PHOTOGRAPHY WILLIAM MEPPEM PHOTOGRAPHY coals is textbook rare, paired with 81 OUT OF TOWN

Line-caught mackerel, skin Nu Nu The Fish House bronzed, flesh juicy, comes 1 VEIVERS RD, PALM COVE 50 GOODWIN TCE, with grilled asparagus and (07) 4059 1880 BURLEIGH HEADS hazelnut purée, zinged up nunu.com.au (07) 5535 7725 with preserved lemon and thefishhouse.com.au toasted rice. Clarence There are three must-visit places in River school prawns are Far North Queensland: the reef, the There’s an energy at play in The Fish loaded with red chilli and Daintree Rainforest and Nu Nu. House that speaks of a restaurant at lime, a spicy kimchi mayo Located in the prettiest pocket of the peak of its powers. You can see it at hand for dipping. The Palm Cove, this casual but upmarket in the dexterous floor service and in restaurant’s crowd-pleaser restaurant partly resembles those the kitchen’s confidence to treat the desserts display the same heritage-listed destinations in that star attraction – a daily varying haul nuanced care – salty it offers a true and magical sense of of the finest Australian seafood meringue and rum caramel place. The only difference is it’s on – simply, eschewing unnecessary elevate Eton mess. Adept a plate (and what good-looking plates flourishes. Raw scampi from Western staff seem so happy you they are). You could start and finish Australia arrives butterflied and PAPER DAISY may want to ditch your in the titbit section of the menu, with judiciously seasoned with yuzu and job and join the cult. dishes such as the crisp chilli salt cayenne; pristine King George whiting pork ribs, but then you’d miss the is char-grilled and, like all main massaman curry of pork belly with courses, arrives with generous shared dishes on offer. Lush bay lobster from QUEENSLAND palm heart and coconut salad. Here sides – crisp-edged roast spuds, nearby Chinderah is dialled up with Wasabi it’s more a paste than a curry, and dill-flecked lettuce and vibrant mixed curry leaf and paired with macadamia 2 QUAMBY PL, NOOSA rich and complex. Finish with a tropical greens. Every aspect is well considered cream, while local pipis star in a lemon (07) 5449 2443 full stop, such as the coconut snow and complements the remarkable myrtle-scented riff on semolina pasta wasabisb.com egg with black sticky rice, passionfruit beach vistas and the room’s airy, with native pepper. Desserts continue ice-cream and spiced pineapple. Staff unfussy interiors. A well-stocked, the precise but flavoursome approach Yes, this may sting a little, particularly may be unnecessarily hurried at times, glass-fronted cellar signals that fish with clean Nimbin Valley goat’s milk the credit card surcharge, but you’ll but don’t fret; just distract yourself isn’t the only thing venerated here, as ice-cream partnered with shards of reminisce about Wasabi’s serene with the extensive and thoroughly a treasure-studded drinks list affirms. parsnip, candied walnut and a sweet surrounds, the almost psychic waitstaff enjoyable wine list – there’s lots Toffee-aromatic tarte Tatin, apples pear paste. There’s plenty to toast in and regionally nuanced dishes long there to like. perfectly caramelised, provides a an upgraded drinks list, too, including after the bill fades. The tatami room predictably polished finale. a globetrotting by-the-glass offer. with sunken seating and rice-paper screens is a mood-enhancing spot to DARREN ROBERTSON navigate a top-notch drinks list replete (LEFT) AND MARK Rick Shores Three Blue Ducks with an impressive sake offer. Diners LaBROOY OF THREE 43 GOODWIN TCE, BURLEIGH HEADS, 11 EWINGSDALE RD, EWINGSDALE seeking shoe-on ease can nab a white BLUE DUCKS (07) 5630 6611 (02) 6684 7795 banquette in the prettily lit riverfront rickshores.com.au threeblueducks.com section, or pursue a little more privacy in a curtained booth. The omakase How does a kitchen compete with the Floaty dresses, tanned limbs, thongs menu is the wisest path, the brilliance finest ocean views on Australia’s east – Bronte’s Three Blue Ducks have of Jiro Numata’s sushi and sashimi coast? At Rick’s, the answer is with feathered themselves a rustic, fun and assured. The alternative, an $80 élan – and an impressive raft of appropriately stress-free nest in the three-course carte, provides ample inventive, meticulously finessed share stunning surrounds of The Farm choice – striking tempura-battered dishes. Interiors have a cool British outside Byron Bay. An on-trend wine enoki, perhaps, with king prawn, Raj-meets-Ralph Lauren sensibility, list is dotted with plenty of organic rock oyster and salmon, followed but you may be too preoccupied to and biodynamic options, and there’s by rosy venison and shiitake slices notice, instead focusing on your crab kombucha and craft beer on tap. Sure, over bunya nut purée. Desserts such miang, or hot and sour bug roll, the it’s a taste of the good life for townies, as sake-kasu, with sake-infused soft bun crammed with tempura- but the allegiance to sustainable and custard, lemon geranium jelly, battered Queensland bug meat and seasonal is dinky-di, with the diner peach sorbet and petals, are sriracha-spiked kaffir lime mayo. focus directed out to the paddocks also meticulously crafted for A cliché-free drinks list fields copious

rather than on the tin-shed décor. ultimate enjoyment. WILLIAM MEPPEM PHOTOGRAPHY riesling, Rhône and rosé inspiration,>

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plus some tidy Champagne and cocktail designed a dazzling array of dishes that inducement. Service is genial, if highlights the powerful flavours of local occasionally harried. Slow the pace ingredients. Their dégustation menu with egg-net salad, a rustic jumble of brings real dining excitement back to cuttlefish, pork belly, mint and green historic Leonards Mill, supported by mango, or beef tartare boosted with savvy service staff and a stellar wine massaman spicing. Mango, kaffir lime list. Within the whitewashed stone meringue and sticky rice ice-cream interior, or on the large outside timber chimes sweetly with the overall offer. deck, dishes consistently wow. A spectacular glass dome is filled with apple smoke that gently infuses SOUTH AUSTRALIA kingfish sashimi, char-grilled octopus, Hentley Farm dashi pearls, yuzu and shaved daikon. CNR GERALD ROBERTS & Black bream with jalapeño, lime, prawn JENKE RDS, SEPPELTSFIELD and prosciutto is a bold conceit, with (08) 8562 8427 intriguing sharp and sweet flavours, as hentleyfarm.com.au is the intensely earthy roasted beetroot with buffalo curd, rye and hibiscus. The addition of a large yet elegant Durr’s desserts, a deconstructed lemon glass-walled dining room signals meringue pie among them, offer the popularity of this ambitious luscious satisfaction. Barossa Valley winery and restaurant. It complements a renovated stone stable that houses the main restaurant The Lane Vineyard and kitchen, blending rugged colonial RAVENSWOOD LA, HAHNDORF materials with modern elements. Chef (08) 8388 1250 IGNI Lachlan Colwill achieves a similar mix thelane.com.au of rustic and urbane touches in tasting menus informed by produce from his There’s a buzz growing around the garden and local farms. Kingfish in Adelaide Hills wine region, and this verjuice with smoky mettwurst and celebrated winery restaurant has FROM LEFT: IGNI’S AARON TURNER, puffed wild rice is a clever twist on something to do with it. All the JO SMITH AND DREW HAMILTON ceviche, while rare tuna with chicken winning ingredients are in place: liver parfait and grilled kangaroo on a picture-perfect setting overlooking hummus with hazelnut shavings vines and paddocks, a bright, open demonstrate exciting textural play and room and deck to drink in the views, bold bursts of flavour. Hentley Farm seamless service, and elegant dishes wines are the exclusive choice, with to complement the estate’s wines. Rich older vintages showcased to winning chicken liver parfait with cornichons effect. Whimsical flourishes, such as and buttery brioche has sensational chocolate popsicles presented on a flavour, while a garlic-laced persillade rustic log, complete a surprising and provides colour and contrast in a impressive culinary journey. moreish pork torchon. The caramelised skin of snapper fillet is sweet against an earthy relish of roast beetroot, Leonards Mill horseradish and kalamata. Tender 7869 MAIN SOUTH RD, confit duck is rich, its cumin and tahini SECOND VALLEY working beautifully with rocket and (08) 8598 4184 roast fig. There’s a hint of smokiness leonardsmill.com.au in vanilla ice-cream to play against roast peaches, shards of honeycomb Addressing Fleurieu Peninsula produce and black pepper. It’s tempting to through fresh eyes, chef Brendan linger and work through the impressive Wessels and pastry chef Lindsay Durr, portfolio of cool-climate wines. Bravo

natives of South Africa both, have on all counts.> JULIAN KINGMA PHOTOGRAPHY XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX PHOTOGRAPHY

84 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 85 OUT OF TOWN

Provenance of their powers – organic tomatoes, former Public Bar (now Parker Street 86 FORD ST, BEECHWORTH perhaps with burrata, olive crumbs Project) and the flagship dining room. (03) 5278 1786 and basil, or berries and buttermilk Wickens’ plating remains artful, the theprovenance.com.au in the autumn-ramble dessert – form “casually scattered” look working the backbone of the menu, while a equally well with garlicky garden It’s easy to wax lyrical about the superb wine list is yet another reason snails teamed with toasted rice, and culinary talent of Michael Ryan, who to enjoy Lake House’s renowned with a gorgeous dessert of chocolate, turned a heritage-listed former bank accommodation. blackberries and nasturtium leaves and into one of the most sought-after flowers. Precisely cooked lamb is lifted restaurants in the state. Provenance’s further with dehydrated goat’s cheese soothing, dark-toned interior is an Ten Minutes by Tractor and a curiously satisfying blossom gel, ideal backdrop for Ryan’s exquisitely 1333 MORNINGTON-FLINDERS RD, snapper by an earthy chestnut custard. balanced Japanese-influenced dishes. MAIN RIDGE The slightly awkward dining space is as Harrietville trout is beautiful, its skin (03) 5989 6080 inviting as it’s ever been and the service lifted off and baked into a crisp top tenminutesbytractor.com.au rarely misses a beat. The legendary for the confit fillet, the orange of its wine list inspires many to make the flesh contrasted by a beetroot salad. Pray you’re not the designated driver three-hour drive from Melbourne, Snapper arrives with a crisp, tangy when visiting this cottage because but Wickens’ clever, regional cooking salad featuring prawns, pickled the wine list is as tempting as the exerts a magnetic pull all of its own. radishes, fermented cucumber and menu. You might start local with the a briny hit from sprigs of samphire, vineyard’s McCutcheon chardonnay, pig face and ice plant. Richer dishes a fine match for triangles of rare WESTERN AUSTRALIA LAKE HOUSE include braised goat with eggplant tuna with a deconstructed gazpacho, Vasse Felix infused with miso and sprinkled with then take a detour to Italy for a pinot CNR TOM CULLITY DR puffed grains, while desserts feature grigio with delicate rabbit terrine, & CAVES RD, COWARAMUP VICTORIA Japanese cheesecake, a lighter version and finish with Burgundy as a foil (08) 9756 5050 Igni of a classic, enriched by fresh figs, for lamb rack, boned and paired with vassefelix.com.au RYAN PL, GEELONG meringue shards and panna cotta. pumpkin and raisins. While this may (03) 5222 2266 Excellent service and a thrilling wine not be the peninsula’s most spectacular No longer just an add-on to the cellar restaurantigni.com list complete the experience. dining room, it compensates with door, Vasse Felix’s upstairs restaurant arguably the region’s most polished is now a bona-fide attraction in its It begins with a flurry of intriguing service, attention to detail and simple own right. The dining room’s makeover snacks – chicken skin slathered in Lake House elegance. There’s classicism, too, by gun Melbourne designers Hecker taramasalata, crisp saltbush sprinkled 4 KING ST, DAYLESFORD in the cooking, through to poached Guthrie suggested the pioneering with vinegar powder, zucchini flowers (03) 5348 3329 strawberries with lemon curd ice-cream, winery was stepping up its food stuffed with mussels, and big-flavoured lakehouse.com.au white chocolate foam and lemon offering: the introduction of a beef jerky – and then ups the ante chiboust. No surprise, then, that five-course, $95 tasting menu confirms further. Chef Aaron Turner’s return Much lauded and awarded, Lake House Stuart Bell, chef here since 2007, the hunch. While the mini dégustation to the style of food that earned him strides into its 33rd year without a came via Jacques Reymond and includes highlights from the carte – the 2013 Gourmet Traveller Regional shred of complacency. A new private Philippe Mouchel. A Tractor more the savoury thrills of cured emu in Restaurant of the Year award for Loam room and aperitivo deck – a must for refined than rustic. a macadamia and parsnip soup, for isn’t just the best thing to happen in pre-dinner drinks with its cushioned instance – its exclusives make the Geelong for a while, it’s manna for all furniture, lake views and Spritz list tasting menu a compelling package. fans of precise, inventive cooking that – underline the point, as does the Royal Mail Hotel Seared triangles of meaty kingfish doesn’t neglect the delicious. Or the well-upholstered dining room and crack 98 PARKER ST (GLENELG HWY), adorned with house wagyu pancetta fun. The multi-course menu delivers service team, which nails the sweet DUNKELD and shaved cured egg yolk has a different meal to every table, so spot between formality and country (03) 5577 2241 flavour to spare; weightless goat’s you might miss out on raw ribbons of hospitality. The formerly Eurocentric royalmail.com.au milk crisps atop passionfruit curd and calamari in a chicken and marron broth carte now skilfully embraces Asian and a cookie-crumb rubble polls well for but be thrilled by char-grilled squab Middle Eastern flavours. Pan-fried Robin Wickens’ gig at Dunkeld’s Royal technique and taste. This is polished, with wild plums or al dente potato barramundi is teamed with bug Mail means he’s more self-sufficient contemporary cooking and a perfect “noodles” tossed with garlic, butter and dumplings and kimchi, while Moroccan- than most chefs. Direct access to his accompaniment to the equally society garlic flowers. The constantly spiced goat arrives in brik pastry, own beef, lamb, orchards, olive groves, progressive handiwork of winemaker changing wine list proves almost as accompanied by yoghurt and preserved eggs and enormous vegetable plots is Virginia Willcock. Service is back to its tempting as the grill-focused fare. lemon. Local ingredients at the peak put to good use, both in the renovated relaxed yet refined best.

86 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 87 NIGHT MOVES RUNNING

AsLATE the shutters come down in other Australian capitals, Melbourne’s vibrant nightlife is just hitting its stride. Michael Harden burns the midnight oil at the city’s best late-night bars and diners. PHOTOGRAPHY JESSICA REFTEL EVANS & MARTIN REFTEL

PARTY PEOPLE Tattersalls Lane in the heart of Melbourne’s party hub. Previous page: (clockwise, from top left): Embla’s Christian McCabe and Dave Verheul; drinks at Bar Ampère; Embla’s wood- roasted broccoli with miso and sunflower seed dressing and soured cucumbers; and an outside table at Bar Ampère.

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CAPTION HEADER Caption copy place here. Example of more than two lines caption here.

BETTER LATE Left: Magic Mountain Saloon and (above) its chef Karen Batson and owner Camillo Ippoliti.

producers. Even non-believers will like this list, not least Melbourne has always been a Best for Seriously good food because of the similarly Night owls in Melbourne Magic Mountain Saloon. good city at night. Now it’s even with nightcaps. appealing service. Hospitality- Nhave never had it so “Chinatown has set the pace and later and better. Drink Bitch Diesel: industry types love the place and good. Renowned for the normalised the idea of dining Marlborough sauvignon blanc they can be a tricky crowd. small-bar culture that outside of ‘normal’ hours and MAGIC MOUNTAIN with lemonade and fresh lime. Embla’s obviously doing the now it seems that influence is SALOON Eat Chicken and white fungus right thing. blossomed in the 1990s, spreading. There’s more Magic Mountain Saloon belongs sausages with peanut and ginger Open Mon-Wed until midnight, the city has never been expectation from people that to a stable of restaurants (The coleslaw on the side. Thu-Fri until 1am, Sat until late. shy of a late night or they will be able to eat well Toff in Town, Colonel Tan’s at 62 Little Collins St, Melbourne, Best for Natural wine buffs and short of novel places for outside of the traditional Revolver Upstairs, Boney) with a (03) 9078 0078, the people who love them. a nightcap. More breakfast, lunch, dinner hours. proud history of serving magicmountainsaloon.com.au Drink Wine, of course, from an And there’s absolutely more Melburnians exuberantly ever-changing global list. recently, though, a late-night places around than flavoured Thai food late into the Eat Steamed and pickled local “24-hour city” state of ever catering to this demand.” night. It also continues the EMBLA mussels with rouille. mind has kicked in. Diversity is key. Those seeking group’s penchant for blurring With a central kitchen equipped 122 Russell St, Melbourne, (03) That kind of thinking – a quality burger and a decent boundaries between restaurant, with a wood grill and a sturdy 9654 5923, embla.com.au and support from beer at the bar at midnight are as bar and nightclub, with neon, wood-fired oven pumping authorities – has well catered for as those after a DJs and a mash-up of seating hearth-like light and heat into a linen-dressed table, a steak and a options from booth to barstool. darkly glamorous room, Embla BAR AMPÈRE promoted a flexibility glass of Burgundy, or a hot-and- It’s not about quiet achieves the rare feat of making Like the Futurist movement that and diversity in late- sour baby snapper with a contemplative wind-down, and cosy seem cool. The food inspired its design, night dining options quenching Spritz and the beats that’s the way the young cocktail emerging from that mood- Bar Ampère has its own that’s unprecedented. of a resident DJ. crowd likes it, but neither are the defining kitchen – charred heads manifesto. Its central premise, “It’s great that there’s this noise levels obnoxious. In fact, of broccoli dressed with lemon that “the time of sobriety and acknowledgement that a lot of they match the feisty food, be it a and miso, superb roast chicken false ceremony is past”, is MAGIC HOUR “It’s important to remember people don’t go to bed before traditional Thai green chicken with a sauce made from its embraced with civilised gusto at Clockwise from top left: Magic that late-night dining has been 1am,” says Michael Madrusan, curry or sour pork ribs. A clever bones – is even more appealing this laneway bar featuring a Mountain Saloon; the busy dining room around in Melbourne for a long owner of The Everleigh and Spritz list is ideal when the hour than the atmospherics. Modern semi-open front terrace plastered at Embla; Embla’s Charlie Snadden- time,” says Karen Batson, Heartbreaker. “And because of demands more liquid, less booze. wine-bar credentials are further in graffiti (and beloved of Wilson; dining at Embla’s bar; the green prawns with kingfish, bitter melon, executive chef of a stable of that acknowledgement things can Open Daily until 3am (kitchen: boosted by a list devoted to smokers) and not-so-secret back lemongrass and green chilli at Magic late-night pioneers including run smoother, and better late- open Sun-Thu until midnight; minimal-intervention (aka bar, the New Orleans-themed, Mountain Saloon.

The Toff in Town, Cookie and night businesses are able to open.” Fri-Sat until 1am). “natural”) wines from small Spanish moss-draped Swamp

90 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 91 NIGHT SHIFT Embla, with mural. Opposite: Belleville’s brined chicken glazed with miso butter, crab banh mi slider, Soon to Be Sour cocktail, lobster mac and cheese croquettes, sticky pork hock, mango and daikon slaw, char-grilled watermelon, and Trade Winds cocktail.

At Embla the food emerging from the mood-defining kitchen is even more appealing than the atmospherics.

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NIGHT WATCH Heartbreaker owner Michael Madrusan pours a bottled Manhattan; (right) Emmental omelette and steak tartare; (bottom) waiters at France-Soir; and (centre) a perfect Martini, from the bottle.

ABSINTHE FRIENDS Clockwise, from top left: playing pool at Heartbreaker; Milk the Cow at Carlton and the absinthe fountain at Bar Ampère.

A form of madness can take hold when confronted with Milk the Cow’s glass cabinet full of mollycoddled cheese. HEARTBREAKER Room, with an unmarked door A raucous contribution from the the cheesemongers are such French wine list is still one of leading to sister bar Gin Palace. team behind Fitzroy’s refined guns. The wine list is less of a Melbourne’s best late diners. Its The crowd arrives in waves after cocktail emporium The dilemma: straightforward, Ratpackish charms seem to movie, dinner, theatre, gig or Everleigh, Heartbreaker has all ordered by the slice. Sold. reasonably priced New and Old improve with age. club, and the demographic its good-time ducks in a row. Open Mon-Sat until 3am. World wines playing competent Though neon signage, flirtatious changes noticeably with each There’s the red neon sign Sun until 11pm. second fiddle to the main event. waiters and closely packed tables influx of new people. painting the room a slightly Best for Those looking to get Late-nighters not prone to filled with an expensively Cheery, efficient table service seedy shade of scarlet and a loose, but with good booze. cheese-fuelled dreams and enhanced crowd contribute to its meets the challenge even when jukebox stacked with tunes from Drink Bottled Martini, served in wanting to stay on theme can appeal, the secret weapon has there’s standing room only, and 1968 to 1980 (yes, it’s that a correct, chilled glass with an choose classic cocktails with a always been its reliability. the bar food – burgers, raclette, specific). This means you may olive or a twist. matching cheese garnish. For all its three decades, France- steak tartare – keeps coming all find yourself belting out Queen, Eat Pizza. Open Sun-Thu until late; Fri-Sat Soir has been open every night of night. Ampère’s cocktails are Fleetwood Mac, Hendrix 234a Russell St, Melbourne, until 1am. the week until midnight. So the deftly constructed and heftily or Blondie before the end of the (03) 9041 0856, Best for Cheese lovers. famished post-theatre crowd alcoholic, appropriate in a bar evening. There’s a heartbreakerbar.com.au Drink Dirty Dutchman, a take knows when they arrive at 11pm that worships absinthe, with pool table, shadowy booth on the Gibson, garnished with any night they’ll be washing fountains and other trappings. seating and a dangerously MILK THE COW Tête de Moine. down freshly shucked oysters Viva el manifesto. comfortable main bar edged in A form of madness can take hold Eat Fondue, Gruyère, with vintage Krug 10 minutes Open Daily until 3am. upholstered black vinyl for when confronted with Milk the Appenzeller, Comté, Emmental. later. Unbeatable. Best for Night cappers and leaning comfort. The dive drag is Cow’s glass cabinet full of 323 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) Open Daily until midnight. party starters. convincing but there’s nothing mollycoddled cheese. There’s the 9348 4771, and 157 Fitzroy St, Best for Retro glamour and Drink M-CBD: Luxardo low-rent about the booze. There real temptation to devour all 150 St Kilda, (03) 9537 2225, good Burgundy. Maraschino, Cognac, Bourbon are four bottled cocktails, a of them in their washed-rind, milkthecow.com.au Drink Domaine de l’Évêché and DOM Bénédictine. Boom. page-long whisky list and plenty stinky blue, smoked and Bourgogne. Eat Prawns, mayo, dill and cos of well-crafted draught beer. The matured glory. Better to stay FRANCE-SOIR Eat Steak frites. on a brioche roll. food is theme appropriate: New seated and peruse the This 30-year-old French bistro 11-13 Toorak Rd, South Yarra, 16 Russell Pl, Melbourne, (03) York-style pizza (think Ray’s Cheesemonger’s Choice section with the menu that never (03) 9866 8569, 9663 7557, barampere.com Famous) in two flavours, of the menu, particularly when changes and a remarkable france-soir.com.au

94 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 95 NIGHT MOVES

BELLEVILLE Belleville’s artful air of decayed grandeur – gracefully peeling walls, scuffed concrete floor, lofty ceilings – delivers a quintessentially inner- Melbourne vibe. That’s aided by the hidden doorway, down a laneway at the entrance to Chinatown, views of the surrounding cityscape, and an excellent sound system. DJs and live music might lend a workers, teamed with excellent club feel but Belleville defies such LE BON TON service that exerts a civilising labels. Sure, there’s dancing but Every civilised city needs influence as the night gets longer you might also settle in with a somewhere to drink Champagne and the crowd happier. Add beer with the signature rôtisserie with freshly shucked oysters at cracking draught beer and chicken, or drop in for a quick 4am in the morning. cocktail lists (Hurricanes on post-movie nightcap. The Or, at the very least, have quality tap!) and there’s plenty to cocktail list mixes well-crafted fried chicken and a finely late-night love. classics with originals. The constructed Sazerac at that time. Open Mon-Thu until 1am. crowd skews young but it’s a Le Bon Ton is Melbourne’s Fri-Sat until 6am, Sun until place that welcomes all comers. answer to that request, a midnight. Open Daily until 1am. sprawling New Orleans- Best for Good times that roll on Best for A distinctively channelling bar with American- and on. Melbourne kind of mood. born owners and chefs who hail Drink Sazeracs are offered, Drink Purple Haze: white rum, LATE NIGHT MOVES The decayed grandeur of the Belleville. from Alabama. They deliver the authentically, with rye, Cognac violet liqueur, apple and ginger. Previous page: (clockwise from top genuine Southern goods, or a blend of both. Eat Rôtisserie chicken with left): The bar at Le Bon Ton; whether it’s chilli cheese fries or Eat Oysters. poutine and coleslaw. its brisket sandwich, chilli cheese fries banana cream pie. The very late 51 Gipps St, Collingwood, Upstairs, Globe Alley, and Hurricane cocktail; and the weekend hours are catnip for (03) 9416 4341, Melbourne, (03) 9663 4041, landeway entrance to Belleville. # night owls and hospitality lebonton.com.au belleville-melbourne.com XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX PHOTOGRAPHY

96 GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU 97 Managing Editor Pat Nourse Western Australia Sales Editorial office Art Director Anna Vu Manager Chris Eyres GPO Box 4088, Sydney, Deputy Art Director (08) 9449 9908 NSW 2001, Australia, Brooke Donaldson Creative Studio Manager phone +61 2 9282 8758 Designer Emma Chu Rachel Gavin (02) 9282 8064 Email askgourmet@bauer- Chief Subeditor Toni Mason Title Controller Rachel Rae media.com.au Deputy Chief Subeditor (02) 8114 9451 Website Krishna Mathrubutham Advertising Production gourmettraveller.com.au Designer Carli Fainsinger Coordinator Dominic Roy Coordinator Samantha Teague (02) 9282 8691 Subscriptions Australian Gourmet Traveller, Reply Paid CONTRIBUTORS MARKETING, RESEARCH 5252, Sydney, NSW 2001, Max Allen, Fiona Donnelly, & CIRCULATION Australia, phone 136 116, email Sue Dyson and Roger Commercial Analyst [email protected] McShane, Michael Harden, Marisa Spasich Maggie Scardifield, David Sly, Marketing Manager Published by Bauer Media Pty Max Veenhuyzen Kimberly Omodei Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. Category Circulation Manager 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW ADVERTISING Thomas Dang 2000, (02) 9282 8000. Director of Brands & Research Analyst ©2017. All rights reserved. Categories Jane Serember Ania Falenciak Printed by PMP Print, 31-37 (02) 9282 8904 Syndication inquiries Heathcote Rd, Moorebank, Group Brand Manager, Homes syndication@bauer-media. NSW, 2170. Cover printed by Abby Cohen (02) 9282 8935 com.au Ego Print, 23 Lionel Rd, Mount Advertising Production Subscriptions Campaign Waverley, Vic, 3149. National Manager Kate Orsborn Manager Lauren Flinn distribution by Gordon and (02) 9282 8364 Gotch Australia Pty Ltd. Senior Events Manager BAUER MEDIA AUSTRALIA 1300 650 666. Cate Gazal (02) 8116 9342 Chief Executive Officer Brand Executive Emily Whelan Nick Chan (02) 8268 6293 Publisher – Specialist Division NSW Head of Direct Sales Cornelia Schulze Brigitte Guerin (02) 9282 8249 Director of Sales Director of Sales – Vic, SA, WA Fiorella Di Santo Jaclyn Clements (03) 9823 6341 Director of Media Solutions Victoria Head of Direct Sales Warwick Taylor Christine Lester New South Wales Sales (03) 9823 6382 Director Joanne Clasby Queensland Head of Sales Group Social Media Manager Judy Taylor (07) 3101 6636 Sean McLintock South Australia Sales Research Director Justin Stone Manager Jo Moroney (08) 8267 5032 PHOTOGRAPHY XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX PHOTOGRAPHY

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