S~ Movement Pocket Watches Fashioruzble, High Quality Quartz Pocket Watches
From left to right the styles are:
Style 154 -Swiss made moonphase gold plated quartz pocket watch, sweep second hand with automatic date. Engraved case with knife, chain and box. 1 micron case. $125.00 Sug. Retail
Style 146QA - Quartz analog pocket watch, gold plated machine finish case. Shock resistant. Arabic nwnerals with sweep second hand, chain, knife and box. 1 micron case. $100.00 Sug. Retail Style 152 -Swiss made quartz pocket watch with day/date. Antique gold plating with sweep second hand, chain, knife and box. Shock resistant. 1 micron case. $100.00 Sug. Retail
NEW! 40-Piece Leather Strap Lizard Calf Straps Book in Ladies' or Men's Sizes
Jewde.rs Cost Total Retail $99.00 Value fo.r Ladies' o.r pe.r Book Men's Book A variety of colors is included in each $398.00 book - Cost for We offer a refills without the complete folder will be $2.50 selection of most each. popular colors Minimum reorder and sizes - all quantity is 3 pieces, prepriced at per color, per size. $9.95 retail.
#705-40 - 40 Pieces #733-40 - 40 Pieces Men's Lizard Calf Ladies' Lizard Calf *' Esslinger & Co. 1165 Medallion Drive, St. Paul, Minnesota 55120; P.O. Box 64561, St. Paul, Minnesota 55164 WATS: 800-328-0205; In MN: 800-392-0334; FAX: (612) 452-4298; Inquiries- Info: (612) 452-7180 VOLUME16,NUMBER12 DECEMBER 1992 A Musical HOROLOGICAL Clock From Holland 4
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute
Wes Door 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE
Henry B. Fried 4 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Dutch Floor Clock A Fine Joe Crooks 8 BENCH TIPS Removing Broken Stem Fragments Old Berthoud Fred S. Burckhardt 10 ROCK QUARRY Yuletide Tales 28 Archie B. Perkins 12 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration PartLXXXIV
Marshall F. Richmond 18 PICKLE BARREL Jewelry Crafting and Repair Diamond and Stone Setting, Part VI
Leo A. Jaroslaw 24 QUARTER STRIKER WITH REPEAT BY LUKAVElZKI, Part Ill
Robert D. Porter 28 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 1992 A Verge Fusee Watch By Berthoud Technical John Kurdzionak 35 THEABCs OF WATCH REPAIR Index Wes Door 36 SHOPTALK Christmas Selling 46 Wes Van Every 40 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Emily Griffith Opportunity School
Henry B. Fried 41 BOOK REVIEW DEPARTMENTS Comic Character Watches AskHuck/22 Material Search Network/37 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Readers Wrlte/38 Watchmakers lnstiMe, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for$40.00 peryear ($4.50 per copy Association News/39 in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Classified Ads/42 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/46 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on Advertisers' lndex/46 all natlonal holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hourrecording), FAX (513) 661-3131. * FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE
James H. Broughton Harold J. Herman George Danlels Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDffORIAL OFFICES Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson Josephine F. Hagans • Hamllton E. Pease AWi Central • Orvllle R. Hagans Mitton C. Stevens P.O. Box 11011 Ewell D. Hartman Marvin E. Whitney 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131
Milton C. Stevens: Editor President's Message Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Donna Baas: Production Director It is hard to believe that it is the last month of Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor another year. For those ofus who are in the jewelry business, it is the season to be especially jolly. The Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager reason for this is the fact that a major portion of our Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager income must come during the month of December, Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator especially the last week or so. If our customers are buying a gift for TECHNICAL EDITORS: Christmas they expect it to be ready by Christmas, not a day or two after. Of course, customers who Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee are leaving before Christmas must have their gift James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon items ready by an earlier date. Also, those who Fred S. Burckhardt John A. Nagle must mail their gift item must also have their items at an earlier date. David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins In addition to remembering all of this for each of our customers, we must Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter make allowances for those who have a change in conditions. Example: Our customer Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond just called and said their daughter Susan will not be coming home for Christmas, so Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney could we please finish this special job by an earlier date soitcan be mailed to her. Let's Henry B. Fried see, that's the special ring mounting that normally comes in yellow gold but our customer wants it in white gold. It is available only by special order and takes extra AW/ OFFICERS: time to cast it. So, we call our supplier and ask them to put a rush on this job for us. This not only includes finishing it as soon as possible, but also sending it by overnight Wes Door, CMW: President mail. After we receive it, we still need to have time to do our part and set the Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: First VICe President gemstones, etc. This is just one example of our rushed workload during this season. Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President I know you can relate to this example if you do your own work or work in a store that Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary does. Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI: Treasurer We need all of the working hours we can muster. If we work for others, this is called overtime. Ifwe work forourselves, it's just called working into the wee hours. AW/ DIRECTORS: Every hour we spend in needless conversation with our customer, like talking about William Biederman, CMW last year's vacation or your favorite fishing hole, only adds to the time we need to make Robert F. Bishop, CMEW up at night. However, we must be careful to not let our customers know we are trying Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW to give them the rush act. Remember, we need to keep them happy for the whole year. Charles Cleves We must remember that we are playing Santa Claus by selling gifts to our customers. Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI We need to keep this spirit in mind as we go through this rush period. Gerhard Hutter, CMW Also, during this period we must prepare for next year. The best New Year's Robert L. Macomber, CMC resolution is to renew our subscription to Horological Times. The way to do this is Benjamin Matz, CMW simple. We just pay our A WI dues and we automatically receive the magazine for John A. Nagle another year. Some of our older members have reached the age of retirement and are Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI tempted to drop their membership. We hope they will not; a retirement age does not Marshall F. Richmond, CMW necessarily dictate retirement. I know very few horologists who actually completely retire from the bench. So, we would like to encourage you to be among those who Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director continue to contribute to the welfare of our fine A WI organization. Continuing Tony Knorr: Research & Education Council Director membership in A WI gives us special price benefits and privileges as we attend Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: Immediate seminars and use A WI services. Past President We hope you have a very happy holiday season! Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary David LaFleche: General Manager James Lubic: Technical & Educational Services Manager Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director Reprinting and reproduc11on I• prohlbHed without wrHten pennlulon from th• American Watchmakers lns11tute. ON THE FRONT: Season's Greetings! Photo Copyright C1912 by the American Watchmakers lns11tute. by H. Abernathy/H. Armstrong Roberts. 2 Horological Times/December 1992 -----150th Anniversary Atmos Clock----- TIMELESS BEAUT\', RUNS ON AIR
Back about 1984, to mark their 150th anniversary, the Swiss company that makes the Atmos clock created a limited edition of individually numbered replicas of the origi nal Atmos.
Hand blown glass dome, every piece of brass is 24kt gold plated, jeweled bearings, and with the newest technical improve ments incorporated in its design. This beauty is a full 131/2 inches high and no photo graph could do it justice. Only 750 were set aside for North America.
A temperature change of only 1 degree Fahrenheit lets the Atmos store enough energy for forty-eight hours. Each revolu tion of the cylindrical torsion pendulum takes a full 60 seconds. This slow opera tion, fine precision construction, and smooth running bearings means that the energy ii takes lo light one 15 watt bulb would be enough to keep 60 million Atmos mecha nisms in motion.
In 1984 this 150th Anniversary Atmos sold for $2,950-while the standard model Atmos was only $1,100. Today the standard Atmos is worth about $1,600. If all things were equal ii should mean that the limited edi tion, if still available, should be worth at least $4,300-but, I understand that the company has been out of stock for several years.
I have a limited number of these beauties, in their original factory sealed cartons, just as they were received from the Swiss fac tory in 1984. I think they should be worth + Limited Edition as least $6,000 each by now. But, at this lime you can be the proud owner of one of + Individually Numbered Below 375 these beautiful pieces of clock history for just fractions of its actual worth-its original • Original Factory Sealed Cartons 1984 price of only $2,950 each (ship ping included). AWi members J.D. Olson------.:o only 1011 Valley River Way • Eugene, Oregon 97 401 $2,200 Bank cards accepted. Phone: (503) 344-6359 All clocks shipped at once. Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC
DUTCH FLOOR CLOCK Gerrit Van der Hey Amsterdam -- 1 750
Enclosed are photos of a Q Dutch floor clock for which I need information. It is a musical clock with the name "G. Van der Hey, Amsterdam" on the hand- _ painted dial. A book at the local library indicates that a Gerrit Van der Hey made clocks in Amsterdam about 1750. It is in a beautiful burl walnut case almost 9 feet tall. It plays seven tunes on a set of 15 bells with automated figures on the dial. The dial has indications for day, date, month, and moon phase. Also, two of the bells in the set of 15 need repair or replace ment. One ofthem is broken in half and another is cracked. I've been told that they appear to be made of bronze with a high nickel content. Can you give me the name of some one that might be able to repair or make replacements? Walter J. Cline, Jr. Memphis, TN
I have examined your pho A tos ef the familiar clock. I own one similar, but with 12 melo dies (such as they are) and 22 bells. I also have seen many others like yours and mine. Asfor the bells, before you go .further, examine the other bells and note whether they are truly in his shop, was going crazy trying to be a d!fficult thing, although there tune. They have a questionable repu get a melody out of them, until I are bell founders in England who tation of sometimes not represent suggested whether he had a true may try for you. However, I would ing true musical notes on pitch. One scale of bells . . . He didn't. suggest before you do, why not try person in Canada, when I visited To obtain other bells would to repair the cracked bell by silver (Continued next page) 4 Horological Times/December 1992 Exceptional quality with exceptional pricing. Only $24.75, wholesale!
Are you ready for 11 Combat 11 ! "Combat" is a watchmaker's dream... Why it's a winner... built to extremely high standards for Jules Borel & Company, one of the • ETA 955.114 Seven Jewel Quartz nation's leading suppliers of watch movement, with Sweep Second and materials. quick-change date. • All stainless steel case, with screw And priced at only $24.75, wholesale. down crown and back. Water-resistant Allowing you to easily "out-value" to 50 meters (Only 30 meters for other your competition. Even the discount competitive watches). houses! Plus, there's no minimum order requirement! • Tritium luminous numbers and hands. Combat is a tough watch. Perfect for • Water-resistant strap with stainless people who prefer an active lifestyle! steel buckle and spring bars.
Don't forget to ask about our full range of watches! Jules Borel & Company, National Order Desk 1110 Grand Ave., Kansas City, MO 64106 1-800-776-6858
Borel & Frei, National Order Desk 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 1-800-654-9591 Otto Frei - Jules Borel, National Order Desk P.O. Box 796, Oakland. CA 94604 1-800-772-3456 soldering or welding? Do likewise er at ETA Industries about your ishing. How rough, or in what con with the one that ls broken. Then problem. He also agreed that some dition are these that have to be you can tune these yourself byfll people--older, and those who work finished? ing, honing, or loading with more at sedentary jobs-are not active Leo A. Jaroslaw sllver solder or brazing wire. It enough with the hand or wrist upon Acton, MA works sometimes. You can always which the watch ls worn to ad try to get new ones if you fall. equately store power in the watch. I have searched through my These are nice clocks with I had the same problem with my A many books and references tricky striking systems, but make AGS watch which creates electrical on French clockmakers withoutjlnd beautiful clocks when all is well. energy to charge up the capacitor ing any reference to a maker called Too bad the paintings, which ap which runs the quartz watch. I H&H. Tardy'sllstlngofFrenchmak pear to have been of good quality, solved that by transferring the ers includes two pages of trade are deteriorating. watch to my right wrist. marks, but none like you noted. Mr. Sabol at ETA suggested Perhaps had you included a rub that you tell your customer to wind bing ofthe trademark, it might have I'm having comebacks with the watch manually once in a while; helped more. Q a 25-jewel auto ETA 2783 it'll help. The 6-1 I 2 turns ls ad The rough clock movements that don't run through the night. equate tofully load the springfor 36 to which you refer were called The mainspring slips at 6-1 /2 hours. Else, tell the customer to do "roulants." Japy, among others, turns, and the autowind mecha as I do: wear the watch on the more wouldshfp these out, many to Paris, nism seems in good order. The active wrist. where they werefinished and cased owner of the watch is an office to thejlnisher's orders or tastes. worker and may not be active Japy also sold many such enough to keep the watch fully already finished, and some Pari wound. I have just overhauled a sian dealer or finisher could have Do you know of any guide Q crystal regulator which had put his own name on them. Most lines on how much activity is nec no signature on the dial. The back such movements have many essary to keep an autowind watch plate had "Made in France" and stampings and legends on them. fully wound? H&H stamped on it, yet I couldn't An inclusion of all would have Robert W. Waters find any reference to H&H in any of helped. Try to obtain the book 'The Owego, NY my books. Any ideas? French Marble Clock" by Thorpe In many books and articles which has much information on To satisfy my own (concur on French clocks there is mention these and their makers. A ring) thoughts about the ETA of rough movements or ebauches Henry B. Fried 2783, I called the head watchmak- sent to Paris clockmakers for fin- D A MESSAGE FROM The Fifth Land Harris clock collection housed in an equally HENRY B. FRIED famous mansion will be guided by Jonathan Bates, whose authoritative articles we have read. In the Prescott-Liverpool area, Mr. R. John For the 2oth Annual Tour which I have designed for horologically Griffiths, curator of the Prescott Museum, will guide us through that interested tourists and their friends, I have selected Great Britain, which institution as well as accompany us as our guide. The historic sites of for two centuries led the world in the art and science of horology. England and Scotland are all included, since so many of these are in the Arrangements have been completed with our organizational areas of our horological visits as well. counterparts in the British Isles for special receptions, privately guided Reading through the formal itinerary and brochure should tours through the museums, and their workshops by their curators. satisfy many of your past wishes for such a tour. Meetings with the members and officers of the British Horological While in the Chester/Manchester area, we will be the guests Institute and the Antiquarian Horological Society, the counterparts of of the Antiquarian Horological Society, Northern Section, where their our American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute and the NAWCC, members will have arranged an exhibition of English timepieces from have been arranged. Thus, we will meet many of the authors of whom their members' collections. we have read about. Mr. Nick Larescu, president of the company conducting this A visit to Upton Hall, headquarters of the British Horological tour, has been bitten by the horological bug, and is now a member of Institute, should be most rewarding. Its setting is in a comparatively the AWi and the NAWCC. With our help, he is refining the itinerary so rural part of England, with its museum, workshops, student and that there will be something of special interest for everyone. teaching facilities, and its vast library; all should prove memorable. As in the past, first come, first served will be booked on our A tour through the Greenwich Observatory with its historically limited membership tour. So sign up early and let's have another good famous timepieces will be escorted by its curator. Avisit to the Wallace time with the regulars (many of whom have already signed up!). Send collection and a special exclusive reception at the famed Southeby your inquiries to: Advantage Tours, 2017 Center Ave., Fort Lee, NJ Auction Galleries will be conducted there, with atalk by George Daniels, 07024. probably the world's most honored maker of complicated and beauti Horologically yours, 1 fully hand-crafted watches. Henry B. Fried
6 Horological Times/December 1992 •
For 15 years Barbara computerized drafting In the past, fellow BARBARA BLOODWORTH Bloodworth produced made it the wave of the employees have Draftsperson II precision drawings for future . Barbara success Eveready® Watch Battery "commissioned" her Quality and Specifications Eveready® the old fash fully made the switch. to decorate their Cleveland, Ohio ioned way. She drew them At home, Barbara is mom motorcycles. by hand. Then came com to Belinda and Horace, Jr. puters! The speed, versa She enjoys classic movies, tility and flexibility of painting and calligraphy.
Alook around Barbara plants. Jobs run the gamut Bloodworth's expertise, Bloodworth's workplace from battery housings and place speed, flexibility leaves little doubt that components to labels and and accuracy of design she has successfully left packaging. Often, rough among the "invisible" the drafting table behind. drafts and information benefits of each A glowing screen, keypad received from one plant Eveready® watch and "cross hair mouse" will be shared with others battery produced. / ./ are now the tools of in its finished form. Ven ./ her trade. dors receive exact draw Barbara's job is to create ings and specifications precise drawings and for labels and packaging specifications from pre materials. liminary drawings and Computer capability, information received from combined with Barbara
EVEREADY®WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, the result of a sophisticated manufacturing process, a high degree . EVEREAD'® of technical expertise and people dedicated to making the difference. © 1991 Eveready" Battery Company, Inc. I. r>enc.h Tip6
Joe Crooks
Removing Broken Stem Fragments
This tip is "borrowed" from the Horological Association of Hi, Chubby! I'd like to add to your tip to use nonmagnetic Virginia in their bimonthly news bulletin, "Loupes & Twee tweezers to hold the step motor, or regular tweezers would zers.• Chubby Wiggins of Roanoke, VA sent it in. be hard to demagnetize. I will still use my "super" magnetized needle that There are many methods of removing a broken stem will go in the clutch square to pull out them broken stems. fragment in a quartz watch, to include fine tweezers, We ran this tip back in the March '79 issue (page 10). Rodico, and Super Glue on the end of a piece of pegwooc:I. To "super" magnetize a needle, tape it to a strong Take a rotor from one of those "retired" quartz magnet with a squared tip sticking out from the magnet long movements, and by holding it in your tweezers atthe mouth enough to go in the clutch wheel to touch the broken square of the stem opening in the pillar plate, it will frequently pull part of the stem (see illustration below). that old stem right on out! 0
stem pilot needle Precision Crystal Cutting Co. ''For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" SAME DAY
SERVICE movement magnet tape SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK. Suppliers of Expert Crystal Cutter All Major Crystals With 10 Years Experience LOWEST Prices in the Country
SHIP TO: Reference & Precision Crystal Cutting Price List 23940 Eureka On Request Taylor, MI 48180
(313) 287-3480 FAX (313) 287-9210 (24 hrs.)
8 Horological Times/December 1992 Buy100 Maxell batteries and get a tape you don't have to return. Free GX-Silver VHS T-120 video tape from Maxell.
•' Now, when you buy 100 M Fred S. Burckhardt Yuletide Tales My favorite time of year is with us once again. For some Finding odds and ends on the bench brings back reason, whenever Christmas is mentioned, visions of a some fond memories. Like the pilot off a stem that was small country cottage covered with snow, a horse-drawn lodged in the pilot hole. What was thought to be a gravy sleigh loaded with laughing people and gaily wrapped job ended up taking about three hours to take the whole presents come to mind. Other thoughts include Christmas watch apart to get it out. And there's the date jumper carols being sung by a choir, and kids dressed up like spring that lodged in my forehead when it flew out. The Eskimos. This is what the season is all about. movement it belonged to is still around here someplace. I But let's be honest. How many of you have ever got angry and told the customer it couldn't be fixed. Half driven a horse-drawn sleigh into the country to visit your adaywentbylookingforthatbeauty.Ifounditwhenlwas mother or grandmother's cottage to spend a jolly Christ taking a bath the following Saturday night. Maybe I should mas day? bathe more often. (No wonder I kept having those head Up until the time I went into the service, the closest aches.) I ever came to any "country" was Penn Treaty Park in There were dozens of batteries and miscellaneous Philadelphia. This was where William Penn made a treaty parts, plus job envelopes, an old pair of jogging sneakers, with the Indians while sitting under a large oak tree. The three watch cases whose movements have disappeared, a park was the closest place where there were any trees and burned-out fluorescent tube, two trade magazines I never grass. Even back then, I don't recall seeing any horse- did read, and an assortment of roller jewels that fell off one drawn sleighs. · time and were just thrown back in the box. Funny, but This time of year, in the jewelry business, it's a little when you can actually see the top of the bench, it just different. The Yuletide meant long hours, irate customers, doesn't feel like it should. At least in a few days things mutiny among the employees, and lots of fights. Employ should be back to normal and things will feel more com ees who couldn't stand the sight of each other all year long fortable. suddenly changed on Christmas Eve, especially at closing Of course, we mustn't forget the presents. I never time. This is when those who haven't spoken to each other really want much at Christmastime, and that's what I for months would suddenly hug each other and wish each usually get. Just once I'd like something nice--not big, but other a Merry Christmas. The day after Christmas, though, nice--like a small Rolls Royce. One year I got an old tie that everything went back to the way it was. had been dry-cleaned. Maybe this year I'll get a new Christmas Eve in the shop was different. After battery for my watch. working like crazy getting everything that was promised Don't misunderstand, I appreciate any gift re out on time, things would slow down a little. It was a gardless if it's small--orvery small. In fact, if you have any custom for all the shop people to clean their benches. It's old gifts that you don't want, please send them to me. I'm surprising what you will find after a year's accumulation. getting tired of making tamales every year just so I have One year I came across a part that came in the year before, something to unwrap on Christmas Day. and I've been telling the woman that it was still on back Merry Christmas! order. Joe, the fellow sitting next to me, found a bologna D sandwich that he brought in for lunch back in March. Somehow it got covered up during a rush time. After all thattime, it actually didn 'tlook too bad; it was a little green with moss growing on it, but other than that, it was still edible. At least it solved the mystery of that strange, lingering odor. Here I thought that Joe just needed a bath. IO Horological Times/December 1992 VACUUM DUSTING SYSTEM AC POWERED ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT SOURCE The soft bristles of the vacuum brush loosen and vacuum up dust and debris without scratching the case. Vacuum brushes are typically used in watch factories around the world. The vacuum pump is quiet and the foot switch provides vacuum pressure when needed. For Cleaning Plastic & High Grade Swiss movements. Finally, a movement cleaning system that cleans both metal and plastic movements. "QUARTZ CLEAN & PLASTICLEAN" have revolutionized the work of hundreds of watchmakers. Movement cleaning no longer requires geartrain disassembly. The high pressure spray and microscopic cleaning action of these powerful solutions, penetrate tiny pivot holes, flushing away dry oils and contaminents. Don't waste valuable time cleaning quartz movements the old fashion way. Discover the "Quartz Clean" Systems and reduce cleaning time to seconds! Call Greg Zanoni at (609) 586- 5088 for more details. Technically © 1992 WATCHES Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author.) Antique Watch Restoration ©1992 Part LXXXIV Making a Verge Staff When there is a need to replace a verge staff, it most tion of the assembly. View A shows the balance often needs to be made by the watchmaker to fit the wheel. The balance wheel hub is shown in View B. particular watch. In the past, some verge staffs were The hairspring and its collet are shown at C, and the available with brass hubs without the pivots being verge staff is shown at D. When assembled, the hub turned. These could be fitted without much work. is riveted into the hole in the wheel. The hairspring Since these staffs do not seem to be available any collet frictions onto the wheel hub. The verge staff fits more except maybe in some old watch materials into the hole in the hub. There is usually a groove cut bought in old tool sets, one must make the staff into the bottom of the hub for the end of the upper completely. pallet to fit into. This keys the staff into a fixed position in the hub to prevent it from turning in the Construction of a Verge hub. Although some of these staffs are fitted friction Balance Wheel Assembly tight into the hub, many of them were sweated into Figure I shows an exploded view of a verge watch the hub with a small amount of soft solder. balance wheel assembly. The following is a descrip- Figure 2 shows a verge balance with the staff already assembled into the balance wheel. The bal Ftgure 1 ance wheel is in an upside-down position. The hair spring collet fits around the balance wheel hub as shown by the dotted lines. This places the hairspring underneath the balance wheel when the wheel is in the watch and viewed from the top of the balance cock. Ftgure 2 c- o- 12 Horological Times/December 1992 Taking Measurements From the Watch Sometimes the verge staff is broken and the lower part is missing. In this case, measurements must be taken from the watch in order to determine the REPAIR dimensions for the new staff. Figure 3 shows an edge view of the verge escapement. The total length for the CIRCUT BOARDS new verge staff can be determined by measuring with AND COILS a micrometer from the outside of the balance cock to the bottom side of the potence as shown at A, Figure 3, then subtracting distance B plus distance C from measurement A. Distances Band C can be deter mined by measuring the depth of the pivot holes and subtracting these from the thickness of the balance cock and the section of the potence holding the pivot bushing. In Figure 3, the balance wheel, hairspring, and verge staff are shown in dotted lines. Note that teeth of the escape wheel run near the bottom of the opening in the potence. This means that the end of the lower pallet must be set close to the bottom of the opening of the potence; otherwise, the escape wheel teeth may miss the pallet. On the other hand, the end of the pallet must not rub on the potence. This condition leaves the lower end of the staff below the pallet shorter than the upper end of the staff above the upper pallet. All of this must be taken into consideration when making a new verge staff. Ftgure 3 8 Selecting the Material For a Verge Staff The material selected for making a verge staffmust be capable of being hardened. Usually sheet steel of the INTRODUCTORY correct thickness is used for this purpose. If the PRICE $10.95 proper high carbon water hardening steel cannot be 700 ORDER TODAY FROM: State WM. S. McCAW CO. Street 1722 MADISON AVE. ~::::@§-~ TOLEDO, OHIO 43624 Quincy IL Gem City College 62301 TEL 419-243-3720 Where Time Can Equal Money OHIO WATTS 800-472-0200 NA TL WATTS 800-537-0343 • Watchmaking •Jewelry (217) •Engraving • Jewelry Store 222- • Clock Repair Management 0391 December 1992/Horological Times 13 obtained, one can use a piece of clock mainspring of the staff. One may also chuck the staff as shown in adequate thickness. The steel should be slightly Figure 7. thicker than the diameter of the body of the verge staff Figure 7, View A shows the verge staff being being made. Figure 4 shows a piece of steel that has filed round. The end of the staff is supported with a been selected for a verge staff. The dotted lines show female taper center in the lathe tailstock. The center the general outline of the shape that the verge staff of the staff is supported on a wood peg in the hand will have and the location of the pallets in relation to rest. The wood peg must be made narrow enough to the escape wheel. Enough material should be al go between the pallets on the staff as shown. The first lowed at one end of the stock for going through the step in filing the staff round is to file off each of the balance hub and for the upper pivot. The lower end four sharp corners of the square staff. When this is of the verge staff is shorter than the upper end, but done, the lathe headstock is turned by hand. After one must allow enough material for the pivot below the sharp comers have been removed with the file, the lower pallet. the lathe headstock can be turned slowly with the The material for the verge staff should be in an motor for filing the staff round. NOTE: The square annealed state when forming the shape of the staff. staffmust be turning true in the lathe before attempt Then, after the staff has been formed, it is hardened, ing to file it round. The staff is left slightly over-sized tempered, and finished. for the hardening and tempering process, then it is brought down to size after this. Making the Verge Staff After the staff has been filed round, the back Figure 5, View A shows how the material for the verge staff is filed for shaping the staff. The material is held Ftgure 4 in a specially made chuck in the headstock of the lathe and supported in the groove on top of a wood peg which fits the hand rest of the lathe. The special chuck shown in View B, Figure 5 was made by the author. It has a small hole and wide slots. The hole is to accommodate the body of the verge staff while the stock fits in one of the slots of the chuck. In some cases, one may be able to use a standard wire chuck already in the chuck set, but in most cases, when one is found with the proper hole I size, the slots are too narrow for the verge material. I ' The wood peg supporting the verge material should ' 'I be made of hard wood such as maple. The groove in I the wood peg can be sawed or filed. For best results, I I I the groove should be sawed with a circle saw in the I milling attachment spindle while the plug is chucked ____ Jl in the headstock of the lathe. The purpose of the groove is to hold the verge material solid while the --- ...., excess material is filed away. . The file used to remove the excess material :' when forming the verge should have a Number 6 cut and be of a width which will fit between the two Figure 5 pallets on the verge staff. Usually a needle file or an escapement file is used for this purpose. The verge material should be filed until the section which will make up the body of the verge staff is square. Later, this square body is filed round. Filing the Verge Body Round After the verge staff has been filed out, it is rechucked so the ends of the body can be pointed with a graver as shown in Figure 6. This is done so the end of the staff can be supported with the tailstock spindle while the body of the verge is filed round. After the ends have been pointed, the staff may be chucked between centers in the lathe if desired. One would use a work carrier on the verge staff and a pin on the center chuck to go against the work carrier to turn 14 Horological Times/December 1992 edge of each pallet is filed round and even with the staff as shown in View B, Figure 7. Turning the Verge Body Round The shaft part of the verge staff may be turned round instead of filing it round. This is shown being done in Figures. The staffis chucked thesameaswhenitwas filed except the wood support peg is not used when turning the staff. A right-hand shouldering graver is used for part of the turning and a left-hand shoulder ing graver is used for the other part of the turning. A cutoff graver could also be used for turning the staff AC POWERED ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT round. The T-rest used to support the graver would SOURCE need to be narrow enough so it could be placed as Simply place the watch under the light and in 2 minutes the close to the work as possible. After the staff has been UV cement is cured! It's that simple!! Cures like an epoxy! turned round, the back of each pallet would need to 110 volt AC- NO BATI'ERIES NEEDEDlll be filed off rounded to be even with the turned section of the staff. Stock # 135.61 O Ftgure 6 ~~i $J9.ts •••••••••••••••••••••••••••• REPAIR ENVELOPES a,. Vlco.. Each numbered envelope has two numbered detachable stubs, one for the customer, the other for filing. Envelopes measure 5 3/4" X 3 1/8" and come packed 1,000 to a box. -¥-1& HU No. Serles Numbers -ti? - ..... 61.151 1to1,000 61.152 1,001 to 2,000 Triple === 61.153 2,001 to 3,000 Duty! ...... 61.154 3,001 to 4,000 61.155 4,001 to 5,000 61.156 5,001 to 6,000 oat,. 61.157 6,001 to 7,000 ~--- 61.158 7,001 to 8,000 $J4.ts 61.159 8,001 to 9,000 ~ 61.160 9,001to10,000 perboz •••••••••••••••••••••••••••• ANTI-STATIC WATCH DIAL fl GEM CLEANING BRUSH Static electricity attracts dust and lint to watch dials and gems. Black dials are especially Ftgure 7 vulnerable. This new Anti-Static brush removes the static charge and wipes away the dust and lint. The soft delicate bristles will not damage the dial or hands. A must for all watchmakers andjewelersl Stock #236.550 1292 $:19.ts Your Headquarters For Batteries, Watch Material, Tools, Findings, Bands, Jewelry Boxes, Casting Supplies, Watch Movements, and Much, Much More. Caml.ogs Available. ~ Phone Orders d' - ~J! -J c000) 476-211s ns .. :::.:;. Toll Free 24 Hour FAX Orders 1 leui : · .• - (800) 476-8016 -:('~ ...... , ... (" Tampa (813)229-2715 Local Fax (813)221-8016 December 1992/Horological Times 15 Ftgure 8 Ftgure 9 Twisting the Verge Staff After the verge staff has been filed or turned round, it must be twisted to obtain the correct angle between the two pallets. The proper angle is 100 degrees. Although the pallet can be twisted by hand with pliers or pin vises, a more accurate and controlled method is shown in Figure 9. View A, Figure 9 shows the verge staff being held on one end in a chuck in the lathe headstock. The other end of the staff is held in a chuck in the lathe tailstock. NOTE: If one does not have a lathe with a chuck holding tailstock, a chuck holder for the Figure 10 tailstock can be used in the tailstock spindle for holding the end of the verge staff. The tailstock spindle is locked solid and the headstock is turned 100 degrees clockwise when viewed from the chuck end. This spreads the pallets 100 degrees as shown in ViewB, Figure 9. The method used to measure this amount is to use a 360 notch index plate on the lathe headstock spindle and an index latch that fastens to the bed of the lathe to gauge the amount indexed. Since a complete circle has 360 degrees, each notch of a 360 index has a value of 1 degree; therefore, 100 notches equals 100 degrees. This is shown in View C, Figure 9. Shaping the Pallets Figure 10, View A shows how a pallet on an English verge staff is filed to shape it so it will operate with the escape wheel. The staff is chucked in the lathe headstock while the pallet being filed is supported on the flat top of the wood peg in the hand rest. The headstock is locked solid with the pallet flat on top of the wood peg for this operation. The verge staff can be supported further by two brass pins, one on each side of the staff, as shown at points "a" in View A, Figure 10. These pins are pressed into the wood peg and then cut off about flush with the pallet and staff. It is very important that the hand rest be a solid non-tip over type.. The file used to file the pallet should be a Number 6 cut escapement file. The face of the pallet is filed almost to the center of the arbor or staff. When finished, the face of the pallet should be on center. 16 Horological Times/December 1992 This applies to both pallets. This is to allow for proper ,~------, drop space on the pallet. Point "b," View A shows an **ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL** end view of the pallet after it has been filed. Note that FOR GREAT SERVICE the outside edge of the pallet has been beveled away from the front face for escape wheel tooth clearance. ON ALI, CROWNS, View B, Figure 10 shows how the pallets are SAPPIDRE & PLASTIC filed on a French verge staff. In this case, the filing is done across the staff instead of with the length of the CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, staff, as shown in View A. The end of the staff is MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. supported by a taper center in the tailstock spindle. The pins shown at "a" are pressed into the wood peg CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES to help support the center of the verge staff while TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 filing and finishing the pallet. The pallet is filed until its face is almost to the center of the staff. Enough is FAX: 1-800-423-4256 allowed for finishing the face of the pallet after the staffhas been hardened and tempered. The back side 'WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL" of each pallet is rounded as shown at point "b," View B. The finishing of the acting faces of the pallet can be done with grinding slips and fine grinding com pound. The polishing is done with a boxwood slip and EB[Z Linde A® or diamantine. The hardening, tempering, and finishing of WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT the verge staff will continue next month. SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY? 0 7 DAYS A WEEK! NJ: 1-908-469-7200 ~------J Vibrograf Introduces Two State-of-the-Art Watch Repair Instruments To Save You Time & Money. .. Advanced Watch Servicing Technology For The Professional Watchmaker. .. NEW UPG-2000 State-of-the-art watch rate recorder for all mechanical, quartz and tuning fork watches. Dot Matrix display with TIMODUL 2000 features not available in any other Newest quartz timer and quartz analyzing instrument. Computer print-out system. Quickly locates faulty parts. Color coded capability. Oscillogram of beat noise. push button controls and large window readouts make Easy to operate. it easy to operate. *Now is the time to trade-In your out-dated equipment/ *THREE PAYMENT PLAN WITH For more intormation~or VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. APPROVED CREDIT the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708 December 1992/Horological Times 17 PickJs~ Barrel Marshall F. Richmond, CMW JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR Diamond and Stone Setting Part VI In this article, flat settings using beads instead of prongs possibly do not do hand letter engraving. However, with will be discussed. These flat bead-type settings were used experience and practice, they have learned to master the extensively years ago; most diamonds were set in these use of engraving gravers, beading tools, millgrain tools, settings and open-prong settings. Back then, even most and other tools necessary to set diamonds ·and other prong settings were at least six-prong, until in more recent stones. years the four-prong settings became popular. This is , Stone setting in these larger shops is considered a because the four prongs hid very little of the diamond, completetrade.Manyofthesestonesettersdonothingbut making it appear more brilliant. Bead-type flat settings are set stones. Sometimes in small one- or two-person shops, the most difficult to set because hand engraving is in it's necessary for us to do anything from installing jump volved. This skill is diminishing because settings can be rings to the final finish--polishing and cleaning. We even purchased that are die-struck and the beads are already have to sweep the floor. formed. Thus, setting and finishing them is simple and quick, requiring little or no cutting with hand engravers. Tools Needed When learning hand engraving, usually instruc For making flat settings, the tools needed are: tions are required. Hand engraving is still taught in at least setting bur (1-A) one jewelry school; it requires many hours of instruction engraver's graver with handle (1-B) and practice, and involves letter engraving. However, flat bottom graver (1-C) when mastered, it is quite an asset in doing general jewelry round bottom graver (1-D) crafting, repair, and stone setting. Many diamond and beading tool with handle (1-E) stone setters that do nothing but set stones in larger shops beading tool in beading block (1-F & 1-G) where the jewelry craftsmen do all the preparatory work engraving graver before installing handle (1-H) millgrain tool (1-1) Setting burs are available insets graduated in size to fit diamonds or round stones from 1/200 carat to 2 carats. These can be purchased singly in even larger sizes. Notice the bottom is shaped about the same as the lower part of a diamond from the girdle to the culet, and is used to cut the seat for any round stone. I generally measure the diameter of the stone with vernier calipers, and find a bur F theclosestmeasurementtocuttheseat. Theseatcanbecut with the bur in the flex-shaft tool or even by chucking it in B E a hand vise and cutting it by hand. It is best to make the center hole in the setting 1I8 to 1I4 smaller than the diameter of the stone to be set by drilling, which leaves G much less metal to cut away with the setting bur for the seat. Poin t 1 Gravers needed will be flat-bottom and round bottom, and the size will be determined by the size of the c\::J stone to be set. You can see by the gravers in Figure 1 the approximate angle that the point should be sharpened. Figure 1 This sharpening is done by rubbing the graver over an abrasive stone (India stone combination, coarse on one 18 Horological Times/December 1992 side and fine on the other works well). When the edge is sharp it can be stuck in a piece of hardwood to remove any bur on the cutting edge. It can then have the belly polished by rubbing it on a piece of 4/0 buff paper glued to a glass plate. Figurel-Hshowsagraverwithoutahandle;point 1 shows a cut-away which reduces the amount of metal to be removed when sharpening. This can be removed on a coarse emery wheel, using care not to get it hot enough to1 draw any of the temper from the graver as these gravers are exceptionally hard. Polishing the bottom on the flat graver will cause the graver to make a brite cut which can be mirror brite. The round bottom graver is used to raise beads, and the flat for trimming and making the brite cuts. Beading tools are used to form beads from the burs raised with the round bottom graver over the edge of the stone, and also to tighten beads when stones work loose. These beading tools are available from the jewelers supply houses in sets varying in sizes and including a handle. The end is a half-round depression that will shape a bead when pressure is applied. A beading block is also necessary to keep the end of the tool in excellent condition. Figures 1-F and G show a beading block section with two beads (the tool is on one to show how the shape matches). When the beading tool end gets out of shape, it can be re-shaped by using the correct bead on the tool, applying wrist pressure, and twisting. The end can be reshaped by burnishing. The beading block has ten rows of beads: four are in a row of Extra Thin Stainless Steel Spring Bar Assortment Heavy Duty, Extra Strong, Corrosion Proof Will fit Seiko, Pulsar, I.oms and Citizen watches ~~w~~lld!H '~ ~-- - ~.,_/T,,.,~'- I~[ i 1 I ::~ ~ e~ee Peace 1 3 5 9S-P131-71 $19.75 ea $17.75 ea $15.95 ea ~ * 7o. ~ Peace * * Contains 20 pieces of each of 10 different sizes: * ~:;?"'llW ~* G 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7 /16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, 13/16 Refill sizes may be combiited for quantity rates S. 1LaRos~ Inc. 100 1000 5000+ Worftfwitfe '1Jistri6utors to Jioro[ogists Pkg by 100 $8.10 C -$7.29 C $6.50 C '~ss;\ I/ December 1992/Horological Times 19 almost the same size starting with the smallest at the the other two. Check with magnification the shape of the bottom, then getting larger with each row, with the largest beads and how well they are over the edge of the stone. on the top row. These beads are very hard and highly This beading procedure may have to be repeated polished, and are set in a slightly tapered depression so several times to get the desired beads and positioning of will shape the beading tool by burnishing as the beading them, as the beads can be burnished farther over the stone tools are not as hard as the beading block. or even slightly to one side or the otherby how the pressure The last tool shown in Figure 1 is 1-1, and is a is applied to the beading tool with the rocking motion. millgrain edge tool, which is a very hard wheel with a When the beads look like Figure 2-L, you are ready to cut series of half-round depressions in the outer edge that awayexcessmetalwithaflatbottomgraver. The metal can turns on an axle in the tool shank which is set in a wooden be cut away from the beads, but be careful not to cut them handle like the graver handles. When this is rolled over a off or trim too close and weaken them. Depending on the sharp edge in jewelry metals it leaves a beaded edge. size of the stone and how much distance from the girdle to When setting the stone ina finger ring in which the theedgeoftheplate, thenumberofridgescanbeengraved plate for the setting is attached to the ring, the size of the to make an attractive and neat setting. If room permits, two stone should be considered, making sure that the setting is ridges around the edge and between the edge and the high enough that the culet of the stone does not protrude stone makes a very attractive setting. The finishing cuts below the inside circle of the ring after the stone is seated. with the flat bottom graver will make the brite cuts, leaving The size of the stone can determine the thickness and the the ridges with sharp edges which can then be finished outside measurements of the plate for the setting. Stones with the millgrain tool (Figure 2-G). This will·leave two up to 1 caratcan be setin white gold plate 1-1 /2mm thick. rows of fine millgrain beads around the edge of the setting The outside measurement can be determined by the size of (Figure lH). the mounting that the setting is installed on. Other flat settings like this (only in different Figure 2 shows a square setting and the steps to be shapes) are also used. Most of these are found in old taken in setting a round stone. First, draw two lines antique rings. Hexagonal with six beads and octagonal diagonally from comer to comer (Figure 2-A). Center with eight beads were at one time popular in old filagree punch where the lines intersect for drilling. Next, drill a mountings. Triangular settings are still used in lodge hole 2/3 to 3/ 4 the diameter of the stone to be set (Figure rings, with the triangular setting in the emblem as well as 2-B). Choose a setting bur as nearthe exact diameter of the being tube riveted in holes in onyx, ruby, and blue sap stone as possible, and with the flex-shaft tool cut the seat phire stones in men's rings. Rectangular and diamond so the top of the girdle is slightly below the surface of the shaped tube settings are also used in flat or cushion top plate (Figure 2-C). Now lay out the comers where the stones in men's and some ladies' rings. These are all set to beads are to be formed (Figure 2-D). With a round-bottom look like the flat hand-set and hand-engraved flat setting graver, starttomakethebead (Figures2-Eandl). With the that has been previously described in this article. Their use hand and wrist, bring the graver to a vertical position on is limited to small stones rarely over 1 I 5 carat, and as small the last of the four comers, and then go back to the first as a single point (1/100 carat). Most of these settings can three and do the same (Figures 2-G and K). be purchased as findings, even with the tube attached and At this point, the stone should have metal over the the plate being die-struck. The beads and the engraving are four comers and the stone should be snug and level. With alreadyformedsoallthatneedstobedoneistocuttheseat, the beading tool, position it on one comer (Figures2-G and set the stone, and with a beading tool push the beads over K). Apply pressure with the wrist and hand, rocking the the edge (girdle) of the stone. beading tool toward the center of the stone a few times, Another flat setting that can be made from flat then proceed to the one diagonally across from it, and then gold is a square shape. It can be cut from 1-1 /2mm gold Figure2 plate to any size needed to fit a mounting, then drilled and shaped to fit a given size stone. After the plate has been cut to size, it can be marked with a scribe from comer to comer, center-punched where the lines intersect, and then drilled with a hole 2/3 to 3/4 the size of the stone to be set. ~ [§J [DJ lDJ Probably the best time to gold-solder this to the mounting A B C D is immediately after the square is cut, because the mount ing is easier to hold while working than to try and work the setting unattached. With the hole drilled using a small half-round needle file, half-round grooves can be filed from side to side both ways to about half the depth of the mmE F mm G H metal plate setting. This leaves the comers high so the stone can be set low enough that these comers will protect the stone. At this time, the top of the setting should be ~ · - · · · ~··-- polished to a mirror finish before cutting the seat and - - --- setting the stone. The seat can be cut using a setting bur as 1 J K L ~ ~ nearly the size of the stone as possible, and deep enough 20 Horological Times/December 1992 for the beads to be formed below the surlace of the comers. In the half-round depressions, the girdle of the stone will show which leaves more light into the stone, thus enhanc ing the stone's brilliance. When this is finished, polishing and deaning will complete the job, with no hand-engrav ing involved. Cutting seats with setting burs is better under stood with practice and experience. When no setting bur is exactly the correct size to make a good, snug fit, use the 1 next size smaller and when the depth is reached using the flex-shaft tool, the diameter can be slightly enlarged by putting side pressure on the seat while the buris rotating. With a few tries putting the stone in place, it can be made a snug fit. If the next larger bur is used when the stone is set, and one bead is drawn too tight, it can slightly tilt the JAMES ADAMS stone; when all beads are drawn down, the stone may not 1930-1992 be level. When a stone is set in a loose seat also after the Former AWI Director, Vice President and Instructor, beads are tight and the ring is being worn, a sharp bump James Adams died suddenly at his store, can easily loosen the stone. Many times rings have been Collins Jewelers, Shelbyville, Indiana brought to me to have the beads tightened, and this on November 3, 1992. appears to be the cause of a loose diamond. Next month: Channel settings. LATHES•MIWNO MACHINES•SUPPUES 0 BlUEYfll. 00£. ~· ~~J>J~~~OR ~ / ~:~'::..-.--. CATALOG .~ s_.-= CONTAINING MACHINERY, (304) 562-3538 TOOLS, CATALOG $1.00 :~~~,AND P.O. Box 536-HT • Hurrlc.ne WV • 25526 TIME FOR ACCURACY WITSCHI ELECTRONICS USA, Ltd. P.O. Box 2, 34 E. Henry St. Palmyra, NJ 08065-0002 lli .. Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Fax: 1-609-829-2266 Q TEST 100 The complete state of the art test instrument For a quick test of a quartz for quartz watches. 6000 Pro has the watch . . option to reprogram EEPROM IC's.* .--- ."':P ... - For the Watchmaker of the 90's** WATCH EXPERT Q Comparable to the Wicometre High Q TEST PLATFORM Tech yet scaled down in price and An exceptional instrument for the testing An option for the Watch parameters: ie. maximum timing lengt_h of mechanical watches with optional Expert Q, which will give the (20 sec. vs 240 sec.) graph magnification Oscilloscope. rate, graph and sound of any (5 vs IO). Optional Test Platform instead quartz watch - up to one min. of the Oscilloscope. "gate time (inhibition)", LCD • All European EEPROM IC's - right now watch, or tuning fork watch. 3 programs can handle the IO European EEPROM IC's but the instrument has the NOTE: capacity of 10 programs and can be updated • Two year warranty (parts and labor) on all in the States. equipment I~ 1------WITEiCHI *" The Watdl Expert Q can be substituted for • Most repairs will be handled in the States...... _,,, the Wicometre High Tech in the Watch • Reasonable payment terms available. Maker of the 90's package. December 1992/Horological Times 21 By J.M. Huckabee CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI .9l.6out ... THECLOCKMAKERSTHROW AND ENGLISH TURNS and My recommendation is to study all the meth HEATING, SOLDERING, AND TORCHES ods used with our old-time tools. Determine how this can be used with whatever we have to work with, and be thankful for the older literature. Figuratively g. Several books on clockmaking show the speaking, it removes the necessity for each of us to use of an English turn, and recommend a clock "reinvent the wheel". makers throw. Are these currently recommended An English turn is used in one of the "Random tools to the apprentice clockmaker? Clock Talk" tapes as a fixture for vibrating a clock hairspring. Another tape uses the same turn as a A. These tools are the forefathers of our modern pivot polishing tool. lathe. It has been aptly stated that the modern back geared screw cutting lathe is the king of all power tools! The humble tools you cited is where "The King Q. What type of soldering torch is best for the Lathe" started. clockmaker? Is a blowpipe and alcohol lamp suit No, I don't recommend the tools because they able, or is a propane torch better? What do you are not widely available. Though I have and use use? several turns, I've never located an available throw. What can these old-timers do? Just about any job A. These are difficult questions with no absolute that can be done on a watchmakers lathe. Of course answer. What you expect to accomplish, your skills the setup is different, and in many cases removal of and available funds greatly influence the answer. large quantities of material is slower. However, our As a very young man I learned to use an modern "King Lathe" cannot excel in accuracy of alcohol burner and a blowpipe. My need was mostly work done in a turn. Dead center turning is the most silver soldering small pieces for construction or accurate form of machining, whether it be in a turn, repair of clocks. At the time this was believed to be throw, or a modern lathe. everything needed, and a good skill was developed. In One of the turns in this shop is fitted with a a move, the blowpipe was lost, and I turned to handwheel and functions the same as a throw. I use another method--namely a small oxygen-acetylene it repivoting very small arbors. torch. This too was highly appreciated, but the A watchmakers lathe may likewise be oper smoke and stink was a problem. Then I tried natural ated as the throw. In fact, by fitting the headstock gas as a fuel; I liked this best of all. with a dead center and a motorized loose pulley it Along the way a small propane torch with a becomes one of the best of pivot working methods. disposable cylinder was purchased. Several sizes This technique takes away the problem of untrue ultimately came into the shop and all worked well. chucking and spindle bearing slack. It further gives Recently a self-lighting Bernz-0-Matic torch 'Yas the ability to remove work for measurement and purchased, in which I'm very delighted. Have I ar inspection without the problem of re-setup error. rived? No. The same problem still exists--the torch Don't discount the methods as outmoded; bring their does not fit the job. advantages into use in our modern tools. It would be very interesting to sit down to a To own every collet size made for a watchmak jewelers bench for a half day and try out the various ers lathe should be reserved for the very rich or the torches on pieces of brass and steel, working with very foolish workman. I learned that lesson too late! silver solder, bronze, and soft solder. We have such a wide range of methods for doing I'm afraid there is no universal "best torch", machine work that an alternate method is available just as there is no universal clock oil, screwdriver, in almost every job. pliers, etc. 22 Horological Times/December 1992 The little self-lighting propane torch can do The new QTM 901 is the most complete lots of jobs well. It will anneal small steel parts, blue diagnostic test meter on the market. others, silver solder small parts, soft solder certain pieces, case harden low carbon steel pieces, harden It is designed by a watchmaker, for a watch your gravers and other pieces of Wgh carbon steel, maker, and is watchmaker affordable. and do a multitude of other chores. The good news is The QTM 901 tests: that the little torch with one gas cylinder is in the 1) Magnetic pickup of coil. $20-$25 range (1990). Replacement gas cylinders 2) Battery and circuit output voltages. are in the $2-$3 range. 3) Current consumption. The little propane torch is not a fit-all, cure 4) Coil resistance. 5) Watch mechanically. all tool, but it has great utility in a clock shop. One It has a variable voltage power supply, is easy to use (one without the self-lighting feature is around $15. 7-position switch), and video tapes are available for Over the years I've used a water mix borax. demonstrations. Avallable from most materlal supply water paste with good success. However, my jeweler houses. friends seem to prefer an alcohol-borax paste. My THE BEST PART! experience with silver soldering has mostly been with All this for only $395.00! brass and steel in clockmaking and with steel in industry. I believe that for very limited work the little propane torch and borax flux will serve you well. For information, 0 call or write: FINN TIME If you have a question, please write: PRODUCTS, INC. "Ask Huck," c/o Horological Times, 200 Lake Avenue P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Suite 202 Lake Worth, FL 33460 (407) 533-1103 FOUNTAIN PENS WANTED I WISH TO PURCHASE PENS BY PARKER & WATERMAN WITH FILIGREE METAL OVERLAY & MOTHER OF PEARL INLAY MADE BETWEEN 1900-1930 ALONG WITH OTHER HIGH-GRADE UN USUAL OLDER PENS. PENS MUST BE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION FREE OF CRACKS & DENTS FOR THESE PRICES. DAMAGED PENS ALSO WANTED ALONG WITH PARTIAL PENS AT LOWER PRICES. t.i! .--±> PAYING $7,000 +UP FOR PARKER OR LE. WATERMAN SNAKE PEN PAYING $1,000 +UP FOR PARKER #31 OR #41 LARGE SIZE FILIGREE OVERLAY PEN CLEVES & LONNEMANN JEWELERS STORE: (606) 261-3636 Charles Cleves 319 FAIRFIELD AVE., BELLEVUE, KY 41073 HOME: (606) 491-0354 December 1992/Horological Times 23 Repeater, Quarter Striker, Petite/Grande Sonnerie, &Music Box Clocks Leo A. Jaroslaw @1992 All rights reserved by the author. QUARTER STRIKER WITH REPEAT BY LUKAVETZKI PART III CRITICAL ADJUSTMENTS & UNUSUAL COMPONENTS INTRODUCTION gap (Figure lG). Actuate the repeat lever while ob In the previous parts we discussed the clock itself, serving the hour strike rack hook (13). This initially the quarter and hour strike operation, and the repeat releases both the quarter rack and the hour strike and strike silent systems operation. rack hook lock lever (16). The counterclockwise action ofthe quarter rack against the strike rack hook CRITICAL ADJUSTMENTS tail (21) must lift the rack hook sufficiently to release The clock, as received in my shop, wouldn't operate the hour rack (Figure lH). If it does not release the properly. By trial and error I've determined the follow rack, the gap is too wide. Carefully bend the tail (21) ing critical adjustments. to close the gap and re-check. Note: Numbers in parentheses ( ) refer to the schematic (Figure lF) and Figures 2G and 2H. Please 2. Check the "at rest" position of the repeat refer to the October and November issues for these lever extension rod (30). The gap between the exten and other figures referred to in this article. sion rod and the lock lever lift pin (25) should approximate 1I4 inch (Figure 2H). 1. Check the space between the left side of To check, with both trains locked place a the quarter rack (6) and the strike hook tail (21 ). Make finger on the hour strike lock lever, holding it in the the check with both racks locked. There should be a locked position. Actuate the repeat lever while ob serving the quarter rack hook (2). If the quarter rack Figure 3A. Front plate.fixed barrels, male Geneva locks. Figure 3B. Rear plate.female Geneva locks. 24 Horological Times/December 1992 CLTCK MA IN/GREAT WHEEL UNUSUAL COMPONENTS SPRING BARREL ASSEMBLIES INCLUDING GENEVA STOP This assembly (Figure 2A) is radically different from modern clocks. Rather than going barrels, this clock has the barrels anchored to the front plate. The main gear (great wheel) is the barrel cover. A click is mounted on the inner side of the niain gear (Figure 2C). The click (ratchet) wheel is mounted on the barrel arbor. Both the click and the click wheel are inside the barrel when assembled. This design pre sents problems when letting down the spring. The winding end of the arbor extends through the front plate, followed by the hub with provisions Figure 3C. Spring barrel components. for attaching the spring. The click wheel is perma nently attached to the arbor at the hub. A polished surface is next provided for the great wheel to ride on. hook is lifted sufficiently to release the quarter rack, The great wheel is held on the arbor with a spring it is an indication that the gap is excessive. retainer on the principle of the count wheel retainer Carefully bend the extension rod to reduce on American clocks. Next a square bas been milled on the gap. Recheck. In operation, the hour strike lock the arbor to accept the male Geneva lock. lever must be lifted off the hour strike rack lock pin The female Geneva is mounted on the back (25) before the quarter rack hook releases the quarter plate. The strike females are designed to allow five rack. If this gap is incorrect, the REPEAT shut-off on turns of the arbor on both the hour and quarter strike the dial will not stop the repeat action when the barrels. The time barrel arbor is designed for four repeat dial is in REPETIRT NICHT position. turns (Figure 2B ). I assume this is purposely de- December 1992/Horological Times 25 Figure 3D. Spring arbor, slit hubfor spring. Figure 3E. Spring barrel, spring attachments. signed so that the time will always run down first so To let the time train down, lock the train with that the strike sequences are not disturbed. a thin screwdriver through the crown wheel. Remove Note: The position of the female Geneva locks the verge. Remove the screwdriver, controlling the in Figure 2B are shown as found. The movement was speed with slight but variable pressure on the crown partially assembled for photography. Before final wheel with a finger. Continue until there is insuffi assembly, based upon the assumption mentioned cient power left in the spring to drive the train. After above, I moved the time female Geneva lock to the the spring has completely run down, continue to center position. rotate the crown wheel in its normal direction manu ally. Continue until there is absolutely no assist from SPRING DESIGN the spring. Just a matter of feel - by guess! The spring design is very different from anything I CAUTION: Previously I had worked on a move have come across to date. Rather than a loop or hole ment with a similarly inaccessible click. THERE WAS end for attaching to the barrel, a square hook is A DISASTER! The above procedure was used; how attached to the outer end (Figure 3E). This hook (tab) ever, I had stopped when the spring had ended power fits into a square hole cut into the barrel. For the directly to the train. I didn't continue with the manual inner end of the spring, a slot is cut at an angle in the drive. There must have been some turns left on the hub rather than a hook as in later clocks. The inner spring. Upon disassembly, the great wheel spu,n, end of the spring is formed at an angle to fit the slot stripping several teeth and snapping a pivot on the (Figure 3D & 3E). second arbor. True, the movement had not been pre cleaned. There must have been enough drag, due to PROBLEM WITH SPRING BARREL DESIGN the old oils, to overcome the remaining spring power. As mentioned in the description of the barrel con The two strike trains were let down similarly struction above, there is no way to gain access to the to the time train. All I did was tie the rack hooks with click for letting the spring down. The following de a string so that the rack would not gather. These scription covers what I found to be the best method. trains could not run away, so there was no need to Maybe others have found another or better way. brake them with a finger. Once again, the gathering 26 Horological Times/December 1992 pallets were rotated manually until I felt no assist from the springs. Support The AWi-ELM TRUST PROBLEMS WITH THE GENEVA STOP DESIGN In most clocks having a Geneva stop to control SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM winding, the mechanism is accessible for setup. Not BY SENDING YOUR so in this movement. The male is on the arbor OLD WATCH BATTERIES :t0 TO THE between the plates. The female stop is screwed to the c- back plate. AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS Note: Normally a Geneva system is set up with CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE an equal number of turns left when the lock is 3700 Harrison Avenue stopped both in the wound and run down condition. Cincinnati, OH 45211 To do this, you count the number of turns to fully wind the spring. Let the spring down. Install the female Geneva in the unwound position. Wind again, counting the turns until the Geneva lock stops the wind. Subtract this number from the first number. ACCEPT Divide the result by two. The result of this division is NO SUBSTITUTE the number of turns to be set up on either side of the Geneva stop range. Because of the location of the Geneva stops QUALITY ROUND MINERAL CRYSTAL and the inability to easily let down the mainspring, WITH POLISHED EDGE normal setup of this system is difficult and time MADE TO FIT THE NEW LINE consuming. Instead, I opted for an alternative. I OF QUARTZ WATCHES. wound the springs fully. Then each was let down one 0.8 mm THICKNESS FOR LDs turn, counted by observing the male lock. The female and 1 mm GTs. locks were then installed in the fully wound lock position. Due to the location, the female lock mount ing shoulder screws were inaccessible with a straight screwdriver. I had to use an offset screwdriver. Even that was very difficult on the strike trains. This is the only movement I have ever worked on with the Geneva lock so situated. If this was the general design of the period, I can understand why A NAME YOU CAN TRUST many repairers did not replace the Geneva lock after AND A QUALITY a movement disassembly. However, I can't under YOU CAN COUNT ON. stand why clocks made in the last hundred years or so are also missing the spring lock components, even CALL though most are located on the front plate. I hope I have been able to help you if you get 1-800-536-7632 a similar clock to service. The next chapter in this series will be on a FOR YOUR Waterbury Westminster chime movement of un NEAREST DEALER usual design, patented 1915. O The choice Is yours ... to fit mineral watch crystals. Pro Grinder Contact your watch material supplier. American Perfit Crystal Corporation 653 Eleventh Avenue New York, NY 10036 December 1992/Horological Times 27 WATCHE~ Robert D. Porter, CMW A Verge Fusee Watch By Berthoud Paris, France Some folks climb mountains and en ment is out of the case in Figure 4. ter decathlons for fun. We watch The tiny bicycle type chain that makers restore aritique clocks and couples the mainspring barrel to the watches. conical fusee (a French word mean Restoring antiques is a very ing equal force) is visible on the bar challenging, labor intensive, some rel. A good view of the ornately en times frustrating, and always intel graved balance bridge, regulator pin lectuallyrewardingfacet ofthe watch ion cover, and other bridges is shown repair business. Much research and in Figure 5. The decorated dial plate practice is required to determine the and sculpted post is pictured in Fig Figure 3 best and least intrusive means of ure 6. repairing the artifacts of centuries past in a manner that (hopefully) would be acceptable to the artistic genius whose applied science, phys ics, mechanical engineering, and micro-machining ability created it. Horology has a heritage we modern day time machine mechanics can be proud of. The verge escapement is one of the first mechanical means of con verting the rotary motion of the gear Figure 4 train into oscillating pendulum or balance wheel motion, thereby pre cisely measuring the passage of time Figure 1 with each swing of the pendulum or balance wheel. Figures 1 and 2 illustrate a fine old verge fusee watch by Berthoud from Paris, France. It is key wound and set from the dial side of the movement in the manner pre ferred by continental watchmakers. Figure 5 There are six Berthouds listed in the 7th edition of Britten's Old Clocks and Watches and Their Makers who were active in Paris in the 17th and 18th centuries. It is not known which of these folks created this interesting timepiece. Figure 3 illustrates the pull ing of the tapered hinge pin holding Figure 2 the movement in the case. The move- Figure 6 28 Horological Times/December 1992 The hands were carefully train while the balance bridge and removed in the normal manner. One wheel are being removed. Once the of the tapered pins holding the dial is balance wheelis out of the watch, the being levered out with a screwdriver Rodico is removed to allow the train inFigure 7. to rundown. Figure 8 pictures the hour and minute wheels and other compo nents under the dial. The small ratchet wheel is attached to the main spring arbor. Its purpose is to take Figure 12 up slack in the fusee chain and as an adjustment to preload the mainspring slightly to a point that will help as sure a more uniform flow of power to the gearing, much like the stopworks in a more modern watch. Once the Figure 10 preload has been determined, the ratchet is locked in place by tighten ing the click screw. The ratchet does not rotate when the fusee is wound. Figures 9 through 14 illus trate the disassembly of the watch. Please notice (Figure 9) that a piece ofRodico® is being used to block the Figure 11 Figure 14 Figure 7 Our new case press from EURO TOOL is the best inexpensive case closer available! Features and bene fits include: • Nylon dies which will not scratch or mar crystals or bezels . • Assortment of dies to allow for any size watch . • Cast metal press to ensure strength . Figure 8 • Dies snap on and off quickly. • Face-down configuration so repair person sees the case back being closed. CRY-905.00 Only s3g_g5 TOLEDO 24 Hour Toll Free Ordering JEWELERS (800) 537·0260 245 Twenty Third Street Toledo, OH 43624 FAX (419) 241·4594 Figure 9 December 1992/Horological Times 29 The upper plate has been the angle to be between 90 and 115 carefully lifted off the movement, degrees. 90 degrees was chosen for giving us a look at the train of the the first verge. watch in Figure 15. Figure 16 is a good view of the mainspring barrel, conical fusee, and chain in the run down condition. The mainspringbar rel cover has been removed in Figure 17. The parts were placed in bas kets (Figure 18) and given a prelimi Figure 21A nary ultrasonic cleaning. Except for a broken verge (balance staff) [Fig Figure 17 ure 19], a badly worn cannon pinion, and some rust on several compo nents, this watch was found to be in fairly good condition for its age. The brass piece through which the verge fits (and on which the hairspring is mounted) is being removed from the balance wheel in Figure 20. Measurements were taken of the various components making Figure 22 up the balance assembly shown in Figures 21 and 21A. A new brass Figure 18 piece is being made in Figure 22. Figures 23, 24, and 25 illus trate the marking out and making of the verge from blued balance staff wire with a carbide graver. One of the most difficult measurements to determine is the included angle be tween the verge "pallets." Various authorities in the 1952 English trans lation of Saunier's Treatise on Mod Figure 23 ern Horology generally recommend Figure 19 Figure 24 Figure 15 Figure 20 Figure 25 Figure 16 Figure 21 30 Horological Times/December 1992 Figure 26 is a view of the index plate on the back of the lathe pulley. There are 60 holes in the plate with each 90 degrees marked with an extra hole as shown. A lead pencil was used to mark the refer ence holes. Figure 27 shows a Dremel® number 409 cut-off wheel, mounted on the slide rest milling attachment, being used to grind the Figure 26 Figure 28 pallet flats, and to remove excess material by slowly rotating the lathe spindle by hand. Figure 28 shows what can happen when the work is crowded a little too much. The pal lets are ground to the center line of the verge, and are polished later when supported on pithwood with oilstone and oil paste on pegwood, followed by a diamantine and alcohol mixture on pegwood. The 90-degree verge was tried in the watch without the bal Figure 27 ance wheel and would not escape properly, the angle being too small. An attempt to heat and twist the estimate the included angle between verge to open up the angle was not the pallets of the original verge by successful. A hand-held comparator, comparison with the five degree in Figures 29 and 30, was again used to crements of the comparator scale. Figure 29 SMEA The Experts on Crystal Cutting # ~Na~ou~T~ V and a Service You Can Count On We cut and fit flat mineral glass crystals for all watches, including brand name: SPRING BARS ASSORTMENTS 500 pcs double shoulder in a clear plastic box. All popular sizes dt::::I! I For Only $5 10-20 mm FOR ONLY $19.50 24-hour delivery CROWN ASSORTMENTS 1oo pcs short and long post for We carry different thicknesses from 0. ?mm the inexpensive watches (tap 10) to 2.0mm to assure an accurate replace in a convenient clear plastic box ment of the original. FOR ONLY $19.50 Try us with one free crystal cutting for new HANDS ASSORTMENTS 300 pcs of different sizes and of customers and let our 15-year experi the most popular styles in a clear enced cutter show you the difference!!! plastic box FOR ONLY $19.50 Note: $2.00 additional charge for crystal w/gasket $2.00 additional charge to remove movement ~~;~~~~~~FOR ONLY ~ Ship to: SMEA 5962 Broadway Blvd. TO ORDER CALL OR FAX~:::;; Garland, Texas 75043 PH 1-800-536-7632 1-800-536-7632 FAX 1-800-536-7631 December 1992/Horo/ogica/ Times 31 Figure 39 Figure 34 graver caught the edge of a pallet while turning the lower pivot. I be gan to really appreciate the skill Mr. Berthoud had in working with the hand- and foot-powered tools of his day. Figure 30 Figures 31, 32, and 33 show verge number four being success fully completed. The brass piece was Figure 35 press-fitted to the balance. A cutting broach was used to open the hole up in the brass piece until the verge could be press-fitted into place with tweezers as pictured in Figure 34 (with attention being given to the relationship between the verge pal lets and the banking pin on the rim of the balance according to a sketch Figure 31 that had been made earlier). The Figure 36 hairspring has been mounted in Fig ure 35. The internal ratchet in the fusee would not function properly. The fusee was disassembled by first removing the stop-piece on top of the ,. cone, and then placing the cone side down on a piece of soft pithwood, • then tapping the end of the arbor with a brass-headed hammer to re lease the friction-fit ring holding the Figure 32 assembly together (Figure 36). Figure 37 Figure 37 is a look at the disassembled fusee which had a bro ken brass click spring. The fusee was cleaned and the spring repaired (Fig ure 38). It is important to disas semble all fusees so they can be prop erly cleaned and lubricated inter nally before being put back into the watch. The watch is being put back together in Figures 39 and 40. Rodi co Figure 33 Figure 38 is used to hold the chain in place on the barrel during assembly. An angle of 108 degrees was chosen: A jeweled upright support Figure 41 is a view of the 90 degrees plus 3 holes on the lathe for the work was made as pictured in crown (escape) wheel and pinion index plate. The additional 18 de Figure 31 to reduce the chance of mounted to the underside of the up grees would resµlt in a difference of breakage during the grinding pro per plate. The large adjustment screw 0.0386" (0.98mm) measured at the cess--although a third verge that was on the left of the picture near the tip of the pallet. almost finished snapped when my edge of the plate is used to move the 32 Horological Times/December 1992 Figure 40 Figure 42 Figure 44 Figure 41 :figure 43 Figure 45 crown wheel pivot back and forth is another adjustment on the other wheel to become disengaged from while the watch is running until end of the crown wheel arbor which the verge and run free, or damage to maximum amplitude of the balance allows the crown wheel to be ad the crown wheel teeth or verge can wheel is achieved. The adjustment is justed toward or away from the verge occur. Easy does it! then locked in place by the screw on until the best action is obtained. Care thesidenearthecrown wheel. There must be taken not to allow the crown (Please turn the page) , OROLO(;J IJA POLSO RO LEX E&L ROLEX Wrist Watches realized by Osvaldo Patrizzi IMPORT, INC. This remarkable volume, realized by Osvaldo Patrizzi, SOK tells the story of the ROLEX Sternkreu.z watch from its origin to date. This book unequalled in its MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS - MST kind, is a precious and valuable 13.0 - 34.0 mm/thickness 0.80 mm documentation for all the watch NOW $1.50 each per dozen collectors and for those working $1.30 each per gross in the trade. Through catalogues and original ONLY!!! advertising it is at last possible to learn with absolute certainty: the factory references, the sale prices with relative dates of appearance, the type of metal used in the different watchcases, the design of the dial-plates ROB DR and of the cases. For many models the produced PLASTIC quantities are indicated and for others the present FINE QUALITY CRYSTALS market quotations. MADE IN FRANCE 208 pages, 82 colour illustrations, 96 black and white $1.25 each per dozen illustrations, text in Italian & English, 10 x 12 $1.00 each per gross Hardbound. An excellent value ...... $170.00 IDGH DOME TENSION RING STEP For free 1993 Catalog of books on clocks, watches, LOW DOME WATERPROOF ROUND FLAT jewelry, tools, music boxes and related subjects send 4 stamps to: SEIKO & CITIZEN CRYSTALS 2706 elsmore street QUARTZ MOVEMENTS--MIN. 50 PCS. fairfax, virginia 22031-1409 u.s.a. (313) 353-4848 ar.g~nboo ai. (703) 280-2005 fax (703) 280-5300 Fax: (313) 358-1168 Southfield MI December 1992/Horological Times 33 The train was counted while the watch was being assembled to determine the vibrations per hour off the balance wheel: Wheel C60 X 3rd50 X 4th48 X E13 X 2 3,744,000 = = 17,333VPH Pinion 3rd6 X 4th6 X E6 216 Where: Wheel Pinion Center 60 not considered 3rd 50 6 4th (contrate) 48 6 Escape (crown) 13 6 Number of impulses to balance wheel per tooth of escape wheel = 2 Figure 46 Figure 47 Each tooth of the escape wheel gives the balance verge an impulse in one direction to the upper Figure 50 pallet and later in the other direction to the lower pallet; 4.81 "ticks" each second. The minute hand seat and setting square on the cannon pinion Figure 48 was worn to the extent that a key could not be used to easily set the watch. Figures 42, 43, and 44 show a new cannon pinion being made. The cutter in Figure 44 has been lubri cated with beeswax; hence, the "messy" teeth. The new cannon pin ion is being tested for fit and proper action in Figure 45. The watch is back together in Figures 46 and 4 7 and show the Figure 49 crown wheel in action. Figure 48 pictures the fusee in full wind posi tion. and 51. Hopefully, Mr. Berthoud The newly restored and run would approve of our work. I cer ning movement is shown in Figure tainly gained an appreciation for his! Figure 51 49. It is back in its case in Figures 50 D 34 Horological Times/December 1992 As an experienced watchmaker, you probably think you you may be required to fit a new crown because "it never can skip this article because you do not need to relearn did that before you opened the case." You should espe the basics of watch repair. Read on further, and learn cially examine the case lugs for cracks or bends and that ABC means Always Be Careful when you are never brace your case opening knife against these lugs, repairing a watch. or any lugs for that matter, because no customer will The first step in repairing a watch should be a accept a case with only three lugs attached when it came careful examination of the watch in the presence of the to you with all four attached (even though one may have owner before that watch is even opened. Every defect on been cracked before you were handed the watch). the exterior of the watch and its attachments should be Any repairs which are suggested to the cus recognized and shown to the owner. These defects can tomer should be comprehensive rather than partial include damaged crystal, crown, dial, hands, spring bar, because many partial repairs can come back to haunt bezel, strap, or bracelet. Try everything to ascertain all the watchmaker. An example of this is the case of a of the defects in the watch, including setting the hands broken mainspring. The owner ofthe watch assures you to make sure the setting mechanism functions properly that the watch ran perfectly until the mainspring broke. and also that the crown does not unscrew from the stem. He would almost have you believe that the phone Check the calendar to see if it changes properly, and if company called him to determine the correct time. You the calendar quick set mechanism functions as it should replace the mainspring as requested, and after the ifthe watch is so equipped. watch is placed into service with a new mainspring, the Ask the owner why he is bringing the watch in customer informs you that the watch is not running as for service. Then, ifrequired, open the case and examine well as it did before, and he hints that you are either the movement for any internal damage. Only after incompetent or that you sabotaged the watch to get examining both the exterior and the interior of the further business. He then insists you properly repair watch should the experienced watchmaker give an the watch at no charge, and you do it because the analysis of the needed repairs and their estimated cost. customer has every right to expect that the watch will Any procedure in which less care is exercised is likely to run as well as it is capable. cause problems between the owner and the watchmaker The best way to avoid these very unpleasant eventually, and probably even sooner than that. circumstances is to perform comprehensive and compe You might ask why the watchmaker should go tent repairs regardless of what the customer demands through all of this bother when replacing a cell in an in terms of partial repairs. You are the expert, and the ordinary wristwatch. Isn't replacing a cell just a routine customer is the consumer. Do not expect him to compre operation? It is routine if you ascertain all of the poten hend all of the inner workings of his watch when you tial trouble areas before you perform any repairs to the explain it to him. He can only judge your work by the watch. Allow me to cite just a few things that can go final product you deliver. Make that product as good as wrong when replacing a cell. you are able, and do not handicap yourself by being If a watch crystal is cracked or chipped, even slipshod when you examine the repair. Examine each slightly, it can easily shatter when closing the case. You watch, and stop any potential problems before they stop might have to replace that crystal at your expense. Ifthe you. crown unscrews off the stem when setting the watch, D December 1992/Horological Times 35 SHOPTALK Wes Door, CMW CHRISTMAS SELLING December is definitely the busiest month of the year. close that blue sapphire sale that requires removing Some figures report that most jewehy store opera the 18-inch chain and replacing it with a 24-inch tions take in about 1I3 of their yearly income in the chain. month of December. Let's see, 1I3 of one year would We also need a nice stock of gift boxes, labels be four months. This means that we need to crowd with our name, wrapping paper, bows, and even four months into one, and we would need four times scotch tape. Our pencils, pens, and sales slips should as much help, or work four times longer or four times be handy. All of these small items are important since harder. Fortunately, it doesn't work quite that way. we can't really complete any sale without these items. We do not need to work four times harder, maybe only twice as many hours since we will make some other REPAIR PARTS compensating changes for the month of December. The most important parts to be stocked are the ones First, we will get a longer time to repair those we use the most. One of these is cells (batteries). really old watches. After all, these watches were Since we are doing these cell jobs while our customer setting around for a long time and our customers just waits, we need a complete stock. We also need a good now happened to remember them. I have quite a few stock of watch ciystals, stems, crowns, etc. We can jobs like these that I have promised after Christmas. operate a smooth business if we have the things that The few exceptions are those that are going to be we know we will need for both our sales and service repaired and given as Christmas gifts. Even some of departments. these which require lots of work or parts to be made will get put back with the other after-Christmas jobs. SALES The important thing is to have good commu Our big thing in this business is to make sales, and nication with our customer. It doesn't help our image make as many as possible during this peak season. for a customer to come in to pick up a job thinking we We may want to advertise a little more than usual. promised it sooner than we did. We use a separate job Advertising will probably pay off better in our peak box and clearly mark it "after Christmas jobs to do". season since people have a reason to buy now. It's Now we don't even need to look at this box until after Christmas time and our customers need gifts. We this busy month. would sure like our share of these sales. A GOOD AND PROPER STOCK "MOM AND POP" STORES We should already have our Christmas stock pur I think one of the hardest businesses to run is the so chased, have it on our inventoiy, and put into our called "Mom and Pop" store. These stores usually stock so our customers can see these items. Of have a husband and wife team and sometimes a son course, we should use our "crystal ball" and have and/ or daughter or other limited number of person bought the exact number and type of items that our nel working together. Many of us fall into this classi customers want. This means we will sell all of our fication and it has some noticeable disadvantages. stock and have a zero inventoiy left at the end of the First, it is generally hard for us to add temporaiy help year. (Please don't embarrass me by writing to ask me for peak seasons. However, those with a large store if I really know how to do this.) operation can afford to hire and hold training pro A proper stock includes findings like neck grams for new temporaiy help. If these larger store lace chains of different lengths. These are used to operations also send out their repair work, then they 36 Horological Times/December 1992 can run their business within normal working hours. Another disadvantage with the "Mom and Pop" store is the fact that we must do everything- sweeping the floors, bookkeeping, banking, repair work, and, of course, waiting on our customers. This means we can't do all of our day's work within a normal working day. For some people it is their lifetime goal to EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in either work in or own one of these larger stores. There conjunction with the AWi Movement Bank. If you can is nothing wrong with this and each of us must decide supply any of the items listed here, please send details to for ourselves which size store suits us best. Some are the Material Search Network. Do not send the items. happy to be a working part of a large store and some Members requesting these items will be advised of their would rather own their own smaller operation. availability and will contact you direct. I'm sure we all agree when we have a small operation and must do all of our own work (or with limited help), it sure makes it hard to get much sleep during our peak Christmas season. It all seems to be 113 l 5L Tavannes calibre worthwhile, however, when we add up all of the 587 clutch wheel, wonderful new business and personal contacts we basic model 504, 584. have made. Also, if money is important, we should be TAYAN MES SO• •sSIJ better able to pay our bills after a good Christmas season. 119 International Time Recorder escape wheel and We know we deserve what we get since we arbor. Numbers 88 and 037 on movement. Wheel have worked hard during this busy season. It will has 44 teeth, is 1-11/16" diameter, .088" thick. soon be time to start all over again with a new year. Have a good Christmas and a prosperous New Year! 0 If you can supply any of these items, please contact: AWi Material Search Network, AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211; Fax (513) 661-3131. O SEEKING PROSPECTIVE CANDIDATES FOR THE AWi BOARD OF DIRECTORS The committee involved with securing candidates to run for the AWI Board of Directors is seeking recommendations from the membership. If you plan to suggest a possible candidate, please send that individual's name and background to: Mr. Robert F. Bishop, Chairman; Nominations for Board of Directors Committee; AWI Central; 3700 Harrison Avenue; Cincinnati, OH 45211. Each recommendation will be carefully considered by the committee. Candidates will be selected on the basis of their past local association or AWI experience, geographical location, present job status, horological experience, and willingness to serve. Mr. Bishop must receive all recommendations before December 31, 1992 to be considered for the 1993 election. December 1992/Horological Times 37 status ofour trade. Oregon does. You ask me to consider the untroined, unskilled, unprofessional "Waldo" under the banner of the so-called "et tu" popularity. To some being a Nazi was fashionable. You 'vejust picked the wrong method ofpointing ANOTHER POINT OF VIEW out the need ofcontinued education and are, by the letter As Editor of Horological Times, a letter received received today, attempting now to justif'y it. You cannot. from Sheldon D. Warren, a member in Oregon, And it's not one bit "thought-provoking". How is John Q. was given to me for consideration. It seems Mr. Public going to know that a watchmaker can do, or if he Warren saw no humor in Fred Burckhardt's Octo is ani>ther "Waldo"? Your last sentence: "It is obvious ber article, "A Guy With All the Answers". These you have the dedication and professional attitude that quotes from Mr. Sheldon's letter express his point we emphasized in the 'et tu' article." is quite an insult. of view. Whatever the writer intended, it is basically wrong to condemn someone who's at least got the backbone to ... Making fun of a profession or a person doing a job, attempt to improve themselves and essentially lJe right whatever the job, in a national publication, is as taste in your own article. I'm not only talking now about the less as printing words like shit. I'd certainly like the article itself. I'm referring to the entire outdated profes opportunity to address and write an article titled "Never sionalism ofyour "Horolovar Times" magazine. Trust a Writer With the Name Fred S. Burckhardt" or Now let's look at your last issue. I'll show you maybe "He Who Uses a Title of Et Tu Doesn't Know what/mean. Shit". Why? Because I can point out many in our own Pagetwo, "President'sMessage"isarrwnthlate. profession with titles ofCMW, CMC, and such titles that School generally begins in this country in the first part are as crooked as a dog's hind leg and just about as ofthe month ofSeptember. This article seems to me to be knowledgeable as the poor man you've depicted in your a little late. story ... Then, ofcourse, comes the "et tu" article I object to on page eight. You already know what! think ofit. I'm ... How many in our profession even take the time to enclosing the article written by Mark Twain so you'll complete a college education and hide behind those understand what he thinks of watchmakers too. same innocuous initials? Bottom line, dude, is we all Then on page 10 we start off with an article have our opinions but I'd certainly not like it much ifthe which poses the question of testing for water resistance attached short story* was printed and published in on a watch. Summarized in the last article with an another national publication. . . (*refers to a Mark expectation that a watchmaker is to test a watch rother Twain story critical of watchmakers) than having the customer test it for him. The article must have been written by the secretary as well for it ... Now I don't need to be told that this letter is in bad really contributes nothing to knowledge already had by taste, but then when writing to someone who's got bad rrwst tinkers, gunsmiths, and shoemakers. You've not taste, you must address them in a like manner, then they even begun to address the problems of wateryroofing a will maylJe get the message. watch, and even now encourage the local blacksmith Nothing burns me worse than someone doing turned-watchmaker to water test every watch they open. just what you did, Mr. Burckhardt, to put it into a They do this too without the technical know-how, for national publication that reaches all the watchmakers free, and then the watchmaker has to tighten the steam in this country is wrong. It deserves a full page retrac valve after it's been ruined by the so-called watchmak tion, apology to efficiency experts, consultants, and to all ers' test anyway. You've done nothing to tutor a young the watchmakers who try to do a good job and not be watchmaker through the problems of water resistance. dishonest to their customers ... You ofall people should know that around the turn ofthe century a watchmaker earned what was on par with a Recognizing his right to be critical, I asked my doctor or a lawyer, and had a lot of respect in the associate to write Mr. Warren and explain that community as well. We've, ofcourse, lost the income. The actually the article was not meant to belittle any respect doesn't come since the American Watchmakers profession. Rather, it was "tongue-in-cheek" hu Institute doesn't really give good basic instruction to the mor, the kind that had made Fred Burckhardt's new kid on the block. columnanoverwhelmingfavorite amongHT read Gentlemen, it'syourbasic attitude that is wrong. ers. I guess we did not convince him because here It's not the watchmaker's obligation to check every is his response we received. watch for wateryroofing. IT'S THE CUSTOMER'S RESPONSIBILITY. Any idiot knows that as a watch Dear Sir: ages and once a factory seal is tampered with there's a You too seem to have missed the point and you cannot chance of water entry. On page 11 of the same article justify it by asking, in fairness, to examine an article there is a halfpage ad for the equipment to do the job. that makes fun of another profession. I know many Around a thousand dollars or more each for them and states don't even make requirements of professional still the engineers and blacksmiths-turned-watchmak- 38 Horological Times/December 1992 Massachusetts Watchmakers Association for its members and their guests. Ms. Terry Kurdzionak and Wayne Lannon prepared the buffet which was enjoyed by all. The November 17th meeting was held at the Mahar and Engstrom Company in Quincy, MA. Joe Delaney gave a NEW YORK talk on repairing 400-day clocks. Following the meeting, The Horological Society of New York held a meeting on dessert and coffee were served to members and guests. September 8, 1992 at the New York Novotel Hotel. Harry The Massachusetts Watchmakers Association wel Blair and Henry B. Fried gave an illustrated talk on Henry comes AWI members and their friends to attend their meet Fried's 1992 European Horological Tour. ings held five times per year in the greater Boston area. For With the aid of an overhead transparency projector, more details please contact Robert Glaser, 22 Howland Park, they traced their adventures through horological exhibits, Hanover, MA 02339 or call (617) 878-4331. museums, and watch and clock factories in many of the major cities of Europe. The highlight of their visit was to Patek Philippe where they saw the makings of the world's finest and most complicated watches. Among these was a calendar watch that needed resetting once every 400 years. Its functions were: mean time, sidereal time, the equinox, Easter Sunday, sun rise, sunset, leap year, chronograph, alarm, minute repeater, chimes, barometer, altimeter, and lots more. MASSACHUSETTS The Massachusetts Watchmakers Association held a meeting on Sunday, September 20 at the Stoneham Public Library. Doug Smith, president of the Derbyshire Lathe Company, presented the story of his la the company including its history and the current line of its products. Everyone in attendance received a folder detailing all of the Derbyshire products. Doug Smith, president ofDerbyshire Lathe Company of Waltham, MA, After the meeting a buffet luncheon was provided by the speaking to the Massachusetts Watchmakers Association. ers try to accept the responsibility for having to open a seeking an experienced watchmaker inNew York. Thanks watch to put in a new battery, and you suggest that your again for not being very timely in your management of customer has every right to expect "that the watch you the Horological Times. My complaint was that your service is as good as new." How can I do that? How can articles are not topical, not informative, not helpful, and I afford to buy that equipment and provide these services not even very timely. Take a lesson from the Watch and to a customer without charging for them? How can I Clock Review magazine who have completely redone compete in the supennarket, mass market world of 99 the format and operational structure of their magazine cent watches with each of tlwse mass market businesses to be more in step with the needs of today's business. competing against me with battery replacements as They deal with subjects in four major sectional divi well? No sir. Every customer does not have the right to sions. At this point in time, I probably would suggest expect the watch serviced to be like new. Hell, I once that you pay the Watch and Clock Review to mail to serviced a ladies snap back watch and it came back in members and discontinue the publishing of the Horo the following week full of water. The customer com logical Times. Yes, it is now contributing that little to plained that it had been waterprooffor hergrandmother the industry. and had been for her since it had just been passed on to The bottom line will come when the watchmak her after granny died. Again your article does nothing ers ofthis country pull the handle and flush you guys. In to handle reality. today's market it is not how good you were but lww good Incidentally, you could make a fortune from the you are that counts. You should take a lesson from those advertisers ifyou'd just show the watchmakers of this whoseekoutthedisappearingcustomerwlw'sabandon country a little Yankee ingenuity of how to pay for the ing stores because of the store's failure to meet customer equipment advertised by charging a fee for their work needs. manship, then advertise the same equipment with the Fact is, you'll lose them if you don't check for article. I could point out, at this point, that you 're a water seal, and you will go broke ifyou don't charge for dollar short. your service, and you are the only link that can take up I could go on and on, but at this point you should the slack in the know-how department to help out. I'll get the point ofthe failure to be current, topical, and even start writing for the Watch and Clock Review, at least accurate. I tried in my former letter to draw your they know what they are doing. You don't. attention to the fact that in your classified you'd forgot Sheldon D. Warren ten or at any rate failed to remove a help wanted ad Coos Bay, OR December 1992/Horological Times 39 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAI(ING Wes Van Every The Emily Griffith Opportunity School Denver, CO On February 1, 1977, an interdepartmental communication was you will find there are countless big paying jobs seeking the right issued to all vocational instructors at the Emily Griffith Oppor people, and the bigger the job, the more skilled training the job tunity School in Denver by our then principal, Byron Graber. The calls for--the fewer the applicants. The high-priced person (who subject was: "How to Get the Job." is really worth the price) is usually hard to find. There is a big job, In addition to training in specific skills, many students a real future, forthe man who can offer skilled training." (CSotw need help in techniques oflooking for and securing the job. It is 1950). felt that this should be a part of each student's total job prepara It is up to us as instructors to prepare the student for the tion and should be included in his or her training program. many facets of a career that are necessary that they will be With the influx of persons from every walk of life and obligated to meet across the counter every day to fulfill the with the shake-up of countries, we have today a great many demands of the employer. Too, we must prepare the student to students that not only need English as a second language, but impress his employer as a person as well as a mechanic. close interpretation of the simplest technical infonn ation needed D to pursue watch- and clockmaking as a profession to make a living in a new country. The relationship between instructor and student has MOST OUTSTANDING WATCHMAKING taken on a new meaning today. It's a situation we never had a few STUDENT A WARD 1992 years ago following World War IL Usually an aptitude test was AT ST. PAUL TECHNICAL COLLEGE sufficient to qualify a person to enter into our watchmaking schools. Today, however, we have a new obligation to ourselves, our schools, and our students. Since apprenticeship training has dwindled from little ornone, the schools have taken on new meaning--a meaning that cannot be appreciated as much as a foreigner can impress upon us. It's a new meaning that awakens a new concept in learning not only for the instructor, but for the student. We truly have an obligation to our communities to put into our profession qualified repainnen. No matter how well trained or capable a finished mechanic is, until the communica tion between student and employers is formulated in a compat ible manner, we have failed to finish this training. Therefore, it is of the utmost importance to include job obtaining procedures into our curriculum. We have an obligation to students and employers to tum out the best repairmen we are capable of. A WI has information available to prepare students for job entry skills, but little did we know that our new training procedures were going to include 3 hours of English as a second Congratulations go to John Studell (right) accepting the "Most Out language and 3 hours of lab and lecture five days a week in order standing Watchmaking Student Award" from his watchmaking instruc tor, Woody Woodward. John was chosen by the other watchmaking to help those students who are eager to learn. They are anxious students in his class, the people that he worked with every day. The to succeed, to have their families proud of them, to make students choose one student each year to receive this award, based upon something of themselves in a society that is not kind. outstanding attitude, attendance, ability, and achievement. "To the untrained person, there quickly comes a real Not only did John do an excellent job in all areas of the 9- ization of the fact that competition is keen for the bare-living month Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Repair Course, but he was always jobs. A glance through the classified sections of the metropolitan willing to help someone else. John will receive a plaque and have his newspapers will tell you there must be hundreds of people name engraved on the larger trophy that remains on display in the seeking and striving for every job. Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Repair Department at the St. Paul Technical "If you will glance through these same columns care College. Congratulations, John Studell, on your "Attitude of Excel- fully and through the Help Wanted columns of the trade papers, lence," and best wishes on a long and rewarding future! D 40 Horological Times/December 1992 In 1972, the license to make Disney character and Mickey Mouse watches was acquired by the Bradley Time Corp., a division of Elgin Industries. Bradley had the COMIC CHARACTER WATCHES: Seven Decades ofMemo exclusive rights to produce these from 1973 to 1985. The ries by Hy Brown and Nancy Thomas. 280 pages, hard license was then transferred to the Seiko group until 1990 covers, 375 watches in color of 600 illustrations. Pub. 1992 when numerous other producers were licensed to make by Schiffer Pub., PA @ $79. 95. and market any Disney character timepiece. The husband and wife team of Hy Brown and The book is organized rather well. The beginning Nancy Thomas have assembled a very significant collec pages are devoted mainly to early Disney character time tion of comic character watches. They pay much tribute to pieces, including, of course, the charismatic rodent, Mickey Robert Lesser, a pioneer collector of such timepieces as Mouse. well as to the collector Howard Brenner, whose book on Cowboy heroes were the subjects from many such watches was published in 1987, Modern Comic Char makers, domestic and European. The color photos and the acter Dial Watches. charactersineachchapterareshowninalphabeticalorder, The authors state that their real beginning was in making reference and identification comparisons easy. 1933 when the Ingersoll Watch Company of Waterbury The quartz watch age is well represented by Elgin made special arrangements with Disney to produce and and some from France, Japan, and one Mickey Mouse with market the Mickey Mouse watch. Its success sparked blinking eyes from Israel, circa 1971. Others with highly competitors to produce watches with well-known charac recognizable charactered dial watches are shown here. ter, comic strip-originated, as well as movie screen charac A special page at the end of each chapter is a ters, sports figures, and highly recognizable public and summary index of the details of the preceding subject text political figures. and a concise description of the item and page to be found. Mr. Brown states that over 5000 different subjects About 50 pages are devoted to the "Bust or Boom" have appeared in such watches. They have chosen and years, 1958-1972, when the glut of such items caused an photographed in true color almost 375 different types and almost cessation with Bradley, the only American maker about 200 others which are pictured in their book. who still marketed the Pinnochio, Quick-Draw McGraw, Mr. Brown, with an engineering and realty orga Yogi Bear, and Popeye watch. The continuing text details nization background, became "hooked" on such watches the march of timepieces of this kind. after receiving an original 1933 Mickey Mouse watch as a The Bradley Time Corporation marketed many gift. His and his wife's own collection totals over 1400 such watches which actually were good timekeepers. This re pieces and still growing in their California-based home. viewer was their consultant who was often called upon to Together they strive to refine their collection. evaluate the various different movements and cases to be The nine chapters are headed: Novelty Timepiece used, with some which failed and were refused. Bradley Prior to 1933; The Prewar Years--1933-1939; The Postwar also produced the first "digiana" character dial watch with Years--1946-1958; From Bust to Boom--1958-1972; The both analog and digital display (such as alarm, chrono Bradley (Time Corp.) Years--1973-1985; The Excitement graph and calendric services shown in the LCD panel Continues--1985; The Present Advertising Watches; Per below the main character dial). Probably no company had sonality Watches; three Appendices: Wristwatches--1933- as many models of such watches aside from their regular 1972; Pocket Watches, 1933-1972; Clocks--1933-1972. jewelry store grade of timepieces. All photos of subject watches are iri very high The three last chapters (1985 to the present) fea quality color. Mr. Brown illustrates the earliest such watch ture Seiko's illustrated comic strip bracelet and watches in America with an 1893 Chicago World's Fair item and with such characters as Beetle Bailey, Blondie, and Betty another made in 1908 of Buster Brown, a precocious comic Boop; from Helbros and Lorus, Hope Sutton, and other strip pre-teen boy. However, collectors of American pocket makers. watches can point out that the New England Watch Com Advertising watches were used as promotional pany of Waterbury produced colored, hand-painted, fire items or obtained by premiums. The authors state that enameled dial watches with the various positions of base some currently fetch good prices. ball players instead of numerals, as well as other subjects Politically inspired character watches, of course, and some of their cheaper watches with paper dials with startwiththeSpiroAgnewwatchbytheDirtyTimeWatch patriotic symbols in the 1890s. Advertising watches ap Company, and a final chapter depicting personalities peared before 1930. include the Beatles, Dizzy Dean, Chaplin, and even In 1933, Ingersoll employed but 300 workers. Beethoven (yes, after all, didn't he dedicate the metro Afterthe success of the Mickey Mouse pocket watch in just nomic movement of his 8th Symphony to his good friend two years, they had to employ 3000 workers to produce Mailzel for inventing the metronome?) and for good mea 2,500,000 watches. In 1957, Ingersoll, now operating as the sure there is an Arthur Fiedler (Boston Pop Orchestra) U.S. Time Corp., presented Walt Disney with the 25 watch. A final full page is devoted to listing all the chief millionth watch. The Browns continue in their text with the items and their current values to collectors/buyers. evolution of these novelties and their money-makers. While at first glance it appears as an attractive For a while there was a hiatus of ten years when coffee table book, examining its text proves it to be one of few such watches were produced, but again in 1968, dedication and good information in a fine quality product. U.S.Time had changed its name to Timex and again went Henry B. Fried into production of the Mickey Mouse watch. D December 1992/Horological Times 41 REGULATIONS AND RATES Ads are payable in advance $.70 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1 /4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. February issue closes for copy on January 1st). HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131 FREE SAMPLE PHOTO MURPHY1S Wetakeyourcustomer'sphoto,copyit,sizeit, and cut it such that you can put in into a watch. CRYSTAL SERVICE For a free sample and more info, call or write: FAST-- QUALITY WORK LOWEST PRICES ON CLOCK MOVEMENT Lenny (310) 547-1215, P.O. Box 6578, San * 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. OVERHAULS. SASE OR (715) 842-0360 for Pedro, CA 90734-6578. * Complete crystal fitting service quotes. Bill Callaway, 324-1/2 Washington St., for new and old wrist and pocket Wausau, WI 54401. watches. CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST ions. Module 0.2to 1.0. Constant profile produc PHONE (209) 576-8865 ENGLISH CLOCKMAKER, I have 38 years ing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. experience in restoring French and English Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead MODESTO, CA 95355 carriage clocks. Also making parts for Platform beat(setoffoursizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All Escapements, Staffs, Cylinders, Pinions, cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed Repivoting, etc. JOHN BARRS, 3 Green St., Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also P.O. Box83, Gilbertsville, NY 13776; (607) 783- cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, 2883. Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: material and tools. Custom made to order or P .P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, Atwa Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Tele ter, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. RETOOTHING, AND OTHER CUSTOM phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. WORK.Movements overhauled with2-year guarantee. All work done by a CMC or a CC. Send SASE for price list. HUGH'S CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, TIMING MACmNES -- NEW AND REFUR CLOCK SHOP, 125 Ganttown Rd., rebushing.REPAIRING:timers,aircraftclocks, Tu.rnersville, NJ 08012; (609) 228-1539. BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho Call (814) 692-2285. 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVER HAULED. Also HAMILTON 21 PARTS for sale: Staffs or escape pinions $60; escape wheels POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, $110; detent springs $175; locking jewels $40; hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, keys, box hardware, etc. I buy chronometers Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., WHEEL 8c PINION and partial movement.a. 1 year guarantee on Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. CUTTING repairs. DEWEY CLARK, (301) 592·3617. PARTS MADE (CLOCKS ONLY PLEASE) CASE RESTORATION CRYSTALS -- FLAT GLASS ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE Cut and Fitted QUICK SERVICE Overhauled with a SEND FOR PRICE LIST Complete Material Supply House three-year (3) warranty on all labor Old and New Material JIM DUBOIS MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC 3JOSTA1EllOAD 101 Crystals of all Shapes and Sizes AMHE/lST, NEW HAMPSHlllE BAL Tl MORE HOROLOGICAL 1326 Stanford Street 03031 & JEWELERS SUPPLIES Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 (603) 673-3645 5662 Baltimore National Pike Baltimore, MD 21228 Established in 1982 & AWi Trained ..MaEllNAWCC A.WI (410) 744-6658 Fax (410) 455-9621 Please Call (310) 828-6707 42 Horological Times/December 1992 QUARTZ CONVERSIONS CLOCK WHEEL AND H.ABE WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? PINION CUTTING USED WATCH MOVEMENTS NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? Fast service -- Write for free Bro 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT Mr. Watchmaker -- If you have a problem AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) finding parts for older watches, badly rusted or 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. 986-7698. damaged beyond repair, we may be able to SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. help you. We have lots of movements for parts at reasonable prices. Some suitable for re ALFONSO ZAMORA placement. If not satisfactory you may return. 280 PRESIDIO PLACE CLOCKS: Custom pinion and gear cutting. Phone (301) 463-6595 BUFFALO, NY 14221 Repivoting and barrel repairs or complete move (716) 633-6138 ment restoration. Ye Old Clock Shop (formerly Kazen & Son), 2051 Corunna Avenue, Owosso, MI 48867; (517) 725-8340, Ken Kazen, CMC. HIGHEST QUALI'IY CLOCKMAKING TOOLS DIALREFINISHINGCO.FASTSERVICE, made by FINEST QUALI'IY, quantity works welcome. J. Malcolm Wild, Sheffield, England Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE Depthing Tools (large & small) - Lathe File Rest the quartz movement. Send your works to: We are Factory Authorized SE!IVice for: Milling Spindle - Finger Plate Clamp KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., " VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP Pinion Head Depthing Tool Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. " TICK-0-PRINT & L&R ••NEW•• We SE!IVice all makas of ultrasonics, all makas of watch rate Hairspringing Tool - Fusee Grooving Tool recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. Repivoting Tool/Jacot Drum THE MORTICIAN JACK PHILLIPS Myford Dividing Head Mounting Kit NO COMEBACKS ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE Skeleton Clock Kit We correct past mistakes and bury them. Spe 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 Catalog with complete price list cializing in wheel work, repivoting, making of For Information Call (415) 453-9266 available for $12.00 from: parts, Atmos clock service for over 50 years, and Michael M. Ambrosino antique pocket watches. Repeaters, Audemars 33-67 165th Street - Flushing, NY 11358 Piguet, Piaget, Rolex, and Quartz Conversions. All work guaranteed 2 years and done by Jal Small, CMW &Associates; (713) 561-5147. WATCH DIAL MANUFACTURING EQUIP MENT. lncludingstampingdies, punch presses, foot soldering machine, etc. For more informa FREe4G(f(/T{ ONWAiR :.-•• >, tion call International Dial Co., Inc., (513) 382- •• 4535. Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket cases) Will repair one free and keep the other HAMILTON 505 CELL STRAPS EQUIPMENT: Vibrograf B-200, $895; L&R Ultrasonic Console Watch Cleaner, $450; L&R NOW AVAILABLE $5 each - minimum order of 3 Varimatic Ultrasonic Watch Cleaner, $695; L&R 6 for $25- 12 for $40 George Hite, 250 Hammond Pond Pky Master Cleaner, $99.95; Cavallin Combination An affordable machine that makes any shape Chestnut Hlll, MA (617) 332-7363 Rolling Mill, $495; Burnout Oven, $295. Send mineral glass watch crystal in minutes in your SASE for list of additional watchmakers and own shop, for approximately 75¢ each . • . 'SPACitl?fEWcoNVEiiSIONs$4S. .. • .;' jewelers equipment and hand tools. WATCHES ETC.,5934NW39th,OklahomaCity,OK73122; r------, (405) 789-2824. 1 DIAL USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIP l REFINISHING MENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, MOVEMENTS, AND RELATED ITEMS. Write I or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shopping I Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) 495- I -· 2471. I 4 . I WATCHMASTER TIMER, Model G47, $100 I BEFORE AFTER plus shipping; (215) 338-0373. Quartz Conversions Traces the bezel shape directly onto the min I Diamond Dial Conversions eral glass material with a diamond cutting I Emblem & Name Personalization point. Break off and lightly sand or grind. 220 I CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD wet sandpaper, available at your local hard Write for Brochures CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL ware store, works great. I INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. Save time, money, and work re-covering Ask your supplier for the 58 W. SUGARTREE bellows. Easier than replacing. For Informa I Schohl Crystal Cutting Machine I P.O.·BOX970 tion, send business-size SASE to: WILMINGTON, OH 45177 JANDi GOGGIN or I Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 Call (616) 842-6025 direct L------...1(513) 382-4535 December 1992/Horological Times 43 ClockmakersNewsletterSpecial Offer: With MINERAL CRYSTAL your payment of $34 for a new one-year sub 0140-0340 U$ 50¢ ea. minimum 100 pcs. scription, choose a free bonus issue on "How to assorted. 'STYLEART' COBRA straps, com Make a Lantern Pinion." Also in stock: Chime plete movements, CANADA STAR watches Clock Repair, 210-page hardcover book by (Toronto assembled). Toronto Jewellers Sup Steven G. Conover, $28.50 postpaid. PA resi MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed ply, 49 Camden St., Toronto M5V 1V2. (416) dents add 6% tax. Clockmakers Newsletter, 203 lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar 369-9417, FAX (416) 369-1766. John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607. antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. HALL CLOCK SHOP, 1512CentralAve., Char HERMLE MOVEMENTS: Lowest prices in U.S. lotte, NC 28205. Factory fresh, 2-year warranty. Butterworth Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview, Muscatine, IA 52761; 1-800-258-5418. Watchmakers Tools, Levin Lathes, and Accessories, lOmm, 8mm. Send SASE for CITY COLLEGE OF SAN FRANCISCO list to Mission Swiss Jewelers, 14 W. BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! Watch Repair Training since 1938. Still Tuition Figueroa St., Santa Barbara, CA 93101; Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, Free. New Semester Begins January 14, 1993. (805) 966-6715. H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. 106 Bartlett Street, Room 214, San Francisco, CA 94110. To speak with the Instructor: Voice Mail (415) 731-0621. When writing for informa Pocket & wristwatches, tools, parts, bows, COMPUTER-AIDED TIMING MACHINE tion: CCSFWatchRepair Instructor, 2425 Yorba crowns,staffs, stems, mainsprings, swivels, etc. With a touch ofthe computer keyboard, you can Street, San Francisco, CA 94116. New tools & parts discounted. Send 52 cent display information on the screen that lets you stamp (no envelope) for November list. Bill know just how well your clock or watch is Schroeder, Watchmaker, #llOOT, 5733 N. working. Detects fast or slow, in beat or out, and TIMELOCK SERVICING CLASS. Includes Broadway, Chicago, IL 60660. problems with balance wheel or escape wheel. instruction on most popular timelock move This unit is essential for all repair shops! Free ments, complete tool kit, service manual, prac brochure. Write H&S Technical Systems, Inc., tice movement, and S&G Timelock Certifica Rd. 2, Box 2005, Underhill, VT 05489 or call tion. January 26-29. $1200. Call or write for (802) 434-4328 or (802) 899-4324. HAND CRAFTED DIAL WATCH details. Timemasters Inc., 2604 SW 17th St., Topeka, KS 66604; (800) 798-TIME. Made in Toronto. Zodiac, Sports, Logos, Names. ETA movement, French straps, date, W/R, 5 micron. Retail $85-$125. 5-year war Laurie Penman's Correspondence Course in ranty. Looking for distributor. Canada Star Clock Repair offers a choice of payment plans Watch, (416) 369-9417, FAX (416) 369-1766. and 13 bench packs in all. Don't put it off any longer. Write today for free 1992-93 catalog with sample lesson. Steven G. Conover, USA TIMELOCK TECHNOLOGY VOLUME 1 Course Agent, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, A comprehensive manual on servicing most PA 19607. popular timelock movements. Disassembly, reassembly, cleaning, and lubrication, clearly illustrated with many photographs. Available soon, reserve your copy today - $150.00. JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Timemasters, Inc., 2604 SW 17th St., Topeka, 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 113n KS 66604; (800) 798-TIME. Phone (718) 424-2929 Quality Instruction Since 1945 6 *TIMETRAX600Wrlst&PocketWatchllmer: AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. Measures & displays watch trains in vibrations WATCHMAKING per hour, calculates gain or loss in sec/day. Reviewed Book - Page 41 (17 months) Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200-36000/ COMIC CHARACTER WATCHES. By WATCH REPAIR hr. Highly stable TCXOtimebase. Complete w/ Hy Brown & Nancy Thomas, 280 pages, (9 and 13 months) watch holder & pickups ...... $595 JEWELRY REPAIR 600 illustrations - $79.95 *TIMETRAX 400 Clock Tlmer: Measures & BASIC ELECTRONICS ...... Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation displays clock trains in vibrations per hour. COMIC CHARACTER CLOCKS & NATTS approved, BEOG available Extended timing range for 400-day & Atmos WATCHES. ByHowardBrenner - $14.95 clocks. Balance mode aids in setting move- ment in beat. Complete w/pickup ...... $395 VINTAGE CHARACTER WRIST WATCH PRICE GVIDE. By Mycko & Ehrhardt - *TIMETRAX 160 Clock Timer/Beat Amplifier. $25.00 Battery powered, portable, direct train readout of beats per hour 100-19999, and new digital NEW W.B.S. SWATCH PRICE GVIDE. balance mode. Complete w/pickup ...... $159 200 plus pages - $20.95 All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete All Books Less 10% •• $3.50 Shipping with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 VISA • MASTERCARD SW Florida AGS Jeweler with complete in stamps for info & our new 1992 Catalog of house service seeks Master Watchmaker for Horological Literature & Timing Machines. SCANLON I AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. full time employment. Rolex training and jew Adams Brown Co., Box 1, Cranbury NJ P.O. Box 379, Modesto, CA 95353 elry repair experience preferred. Quality is a 08512 (609) 655-8269 Fax 655-6102 (209) 667-2906 FAX (209) 521-2777 necessity. Please call (813) 262-5455 and ask for Adam. 44 Horological Times/December 1992 CLOCK REPAIRMAN - Experience required. Competitive salacy, paid vacation. Send re sumetoJohn Wyatt, 715Pine St., Herndon, VA Watches Wanted 22070, or call collect (703) 709-0234. WATCHMAKERS NEEDED UP TO $1,000 WEEKI.. Y - Rolex -Palek Philippe - PLUS BENEFITS Hamilton -Cartier -Movado Certified in Rolex repair. -Audemars -Tiffany Qualified in Bulova Accutrons. -Breguet -Breitling (813) 358-9080 We desperately need for our relail -Vacheron -Longines customers fine watches by: -Le Coullre -Moonphase Poylog $7,000 Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, For This Watch -Chronographs, and all Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. We are paying top prices for any high quality, unusual or complicated Illinois wristwatches, also older Rolex, mili Wrist or Pocket Watches tary, and key wind pockets. Hanson, 6605 Ar When.You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch gent, Pasco, WA 99301; (509) 545-9929. Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 In Texas 1-2 I 4-902-0664 I wish to buy liquidation discard ladies me HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN chanical movements in bulk, to be used for seeks parts! Movements, balances, etc. desper Always prompt immediate payment! watch-artjewelcy hobby. Call (314) 862-3055 or ately needed. Want anything related to Wingate's Quality Watches writetoJoHejna, 7777BonhommeAve.,#1004, Hamilton Electrics. Rene Rondeau, 120 Harbor St. Louis, MO 63105. Drive, Corte Madera, CA 94925; (415) 924- P.O. Box 59760 • I>allas, TX 75229-1760 6534; Fax (415) 924-8423. LATHE ACCESSORIES - Milling & index gear cutting equipment, cross slide, pul leys, etc. Jal Small, CMW; (713) 561-6147. WANTED: Rolex Eazy Opener, Rolex tools, RETIRING? I need to buy watchmakers tools cases, dials, movements, and complete watches, and related items. I will pay your price, in running or not. We also buy watchmaker's tools most cases. Call collect, Tom Mister (800) 446- WANTED: Chronograph movements. Will pay: and equipment, pocket watches, and wrist 8094. Valjoux 22, 23, 71, 72 - $35-$100; Valjoux 72C - watches. Single items or complete collections. WATCHES ETC., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma $150; 730-$75; 88 -$300; 69- $300; Venus Split City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. Second - $500-$1000; Longines 13ZN, 13.33 - We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any $250; Movado 95 - $275; Universal 287 - $150- amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, $300; Ex. Park. 4, 4-40, 42- $50. Will buy parts, silver, platinum! lmm.e·diate 24-hour payment cases, and dials for these and other chrono WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: graphs. Dean Sarnelle, 25 West Beverley St., movements. I buy entire collections, estates, AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King Staunton, VA 24401; (703) 885-6064. watchmakers' inventories. Over 31 years expe St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab rience of honest and reliable confidential trans lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. actions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly Hills, CA 90210; (310) 826-7778. WANTED * Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemar Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. HOROLOGISTS' SEARCH AND RESCUE SERVICE. Listing, matching service for watch Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold makers, clockmakers, and collectors. Computer (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) data base, convenient, cost-efficient, current. RESEARCH PROJECT - BANK CLOCKS * Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service Monthly updates, getting buyers, sellers, and McCllnlock-Looml• Co. or O.B. McCllnlock Co- Sets, Etc. traders together. For more info send SASE to * Scrap-Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, Horologists' Search and Rescue Service, P .O. Needed - ORIOINAL+rre..,c111 Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) Box 14908, Dept. HT, Santa Rosa, CA 95402. . locallons ur ll1ese clocb. If you have CALL .... : .• seen one In as ca, plea.se send a note to: TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 Lloyd Larish ~ P_O.box 75 I / Fallbault, MN 55021. SPECIALlY METALS 8 Pocket& Wristwatches Wanted Dead or Alive! Ameri (Please Include: REFINING COMPANY can Waltham, llllnals, Howard, Keywlnds, Gold, Dulldlng locallon/Clty/Stale &. A or B Bay 1 O Street Early American, Chronometers, Repeaters, Patek ' for I ype, or a small sketch_ Westport, CT 06880 Philippe, Vacheron, Unusual, Hlstorlcal, Fusees. Nole: mtlJly clocks have copper & bia3s CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-23J-BUNNorWrlte: Maundy Members: Better Business Bureau , case w/stalned glass dials & panels. Jewelers Board a Trade lntern1tlonal, P.O. Box 13028-H, Overland Park, Aon Fried Kansas 66212. Tl1a11k you tor your l1elp President Our 92st Consecutive A/j December 1992/Horological Times 45 JANUARY 1993 6-7-Striking aocks Bench Course (AWi); John American Perfrt Crystal Corp ...... 27 Nagle, instructor; Denver, CO.* Arlington Book Co ...... 33 9-10-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWQ; Robert Bishop, instructor; Greenville, 12-14-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools ...... 21 SC.* (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor, Grand Junction, Borel Co ...... 5 CO.* (COURSE IS FULL) 23-24-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Cas-Ker Co ...... inside back cover Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instructor; Dallas/ 20-21-Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Charles Cleves ...... 23 Ft. Worth, TX.* James Lubic, instructor; New Orleans, LA.* 27-28--Lathe Accessories Bench Course (AWi); E & L Import, Inc ...... 33 FEBRUARY 1993 Roy Hovey, instructor; New Orleans, LA.* Esslinger & Co ...... inside front cover Euro Tool ...... 29 7-Technical Speakers Seminar, Dallas/Ft. Worth, Eveready Watch Batteries ...... 7 TX.* APRIL 1993 Finn Time Products ...... 23 13-14-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench 4-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instructor; San Di Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor, Chi· ego, CA.* cago, IL* Gem City College ...... 13 19-20-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course 18-20-AWI Southwest Technical Conclave, Las S. LaRose, Inc ...... 19 (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Boston, MA.* Vegas, NV.* Livesay's, Inc ...... 15 20-21-Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Maxell Corp ...... 9 James Lubic, instructor; Los Angeles, CA.* MAY 1993 McCaw Co., Wm. S...... 13 20-21-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench Course 8-9--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Atlanta, GA.* Lubic, instructor; New York, NY.* Newall Manufacturing ...... 19 21--Basic Pocket Watch Bench Course (AWi); 15-16--Lathe Accessories Bench Course (AWi); Olson, J. D...... 3 Alice Carpenter, instructor; Atlanta, GA.* Roy Hovey, instructor; New York, NY.* Precision Crystal Cutting Co ...... 8 21-22-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course 21-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Boston, MA.* Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Dal S & G Industries ...... 17 las/Ft. Worth, TX.* SMEA ...... 27, 31 27-28-Lathe Accessories Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; Los Angeles, CA.* Twin City Supply Co ...... 25 *For more Information on AWi Bench Courses, MARCH 1993 Project Extend, and Regional Seminars, con· Vibrograf USA Corp ...... 17 tact AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harri· 6-7-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); son Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661 • Witschi Electronics ...... 21 James Williams, instructor; Kansas City, MO.* 3838; Fax (513) 661-3131. Zantech ...... 11 making balance hole jewel setting, tower clock hands, 10-22 7-12 wheel work, 4-32 1r TECHNICAL INDEX making verge escape wheel, 11-24 "Ask Huck" VOLUME 16--YEAR1992 making verge staff, 12-12 aircraft clocks, 8-22 HOW TO READ THE INDEX: 'lbeflnt num· replacing jewels, 4-20 automobile clocks, 8-22 ber refen to the l88ue; eec:ond number setting balance hole jewels into choice of clockmaker's lathe, 2-41 indicates the pace. For ezample, the entry balance cocks, 8-12 clockmaker's throw, 12-22 1-~ refen to a subject which can be found setting cap jewels, 9-30 drilling deep holes, 3-24 in the January (ht) iaeue on paae ~. uprighting pivot holes, 3-10 great wheel for a small clock, 4-39 verge escapement, 10-28 heating, soldering, and torches, 12-22 "Apprentice Clockmaker, The" Improving poor workmanship, 7-36 A bench and accessories, 11-20 installing a platform escapement, 9-16 ABCs of watch repair, 12-35 files and filing, 6-38 lantern pinlons, 3-24 Advance Watch Company, 9-18 metal saws, 9-20 lathe chucking problems, 11-10 Alton watch, 8-4, 10-6 "As a Clockmaker Turns" oilstones/polishtng materials, 1-37 "Antique Watch Restoration" an exercise for lathe experience, 7-22 pinions, making, 7-36 bezeled-in train jewel setting, 6-22 an exercise in clock restoration, 9-36 power robbers, 9-16 completing missing train jewel arbor work, 4-32 problems wtth hands, 4-39 setting, 5-22 lathe and pivot work, 2-14 regulator escapements, 8-22 correcting center distances, 2-22 mandrel turntng, 4-32 rillle files, 1-37 depthing tool, 2-22 pivot hardness, 10-22 strap-type pallet repair, 2-41 maintenance of non-jewelled pivot threading and screw making, 11-38 tarnished lathe collets, 1-37 holes, 1-10 Ups on tool control, 1-26 tools for clockmakers, 5-28 46 Horological Times/November 1992 winding arbor problems, 11-10 calculations, teeth and leaves on J associations, 5-10 missing gear and plnlon, 3-18 Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos clock, cal. 540, Atmos, Jaeger-LeCoultre, cal. 540, 5-44, chime rods, sound from, 5-30 5-44, 6-14, 7-32, 8-18 6-14, 7-32, 8-18 clockmaker's throw, 12-22 jewelry crafting/repair AWI Colonial grandfather, 5-4 diamond and stone setting, 7-26, Annual Meeting recap, 8-34 contrate wheel, carriage, 6-30 8-26, 9-12, 10-24, 11-41, 12-18 area representatives, 9-8 Dutch floor, 12-4 helpful tools, 2-18 REC Annual Meeting recap, 8-38 Eureka electric, 3-6 metal sizing, 1-22 REC schools, listing of, 8-41 Eureka Gallery, 11-34 promotional jewelry, 3-22 files and filing, 6-38 shaping tools, 1-22 B French carriage, 9-16 solder, flux, and pickle, 4-26, 5-40 battery collection program Tucson, 9-22 French marbler, 5-4 solder problems, 6-8 "Bench Tips" fusee barrel mainspring jig, 10-34 Junghans strlktng clock, 3-6 broken stem fragments, 12-8 gearing, 6-30 repairing broken springs on ARI hands, problems, 4-39 L loupes, 5-8 Junghans, striking, 3-6 Lady Olga watch, 4-6 safety chains for watch bracelet, 7 -10 lathe, 2-14, 2-41 Lancashire watch, 9-4, 10-4 Berthoud verge fusee watch, 12-28 lathework: tool control, 1-26 Lange, A. & Sohne, watch, 5-47 "Book Review" Lukavetzkl, 10-14, 11-14, 12-24 lathework Beginner's Guide to Tlmelocks, The by making a slotted click for, 9-44 see ''.As a Clockmaker Turns" Daniel M. Graffeo, 9-50 Marti French, 5-30 and listings under "Ask Huck" Clockmaking Tools and Techniques by metals for, 5-18 Lecoultre watch, 8-6 W.R. Smith, 1-47 pallet repair, strap-type, 2-41 Longines chronograph, 5-37 Clocks--An Illustrated History of Time pendulum length, changing, 7-4 7 "Lord Watch," 3-8 pieces by John Hunter, 9-48 Petticrew, John, 6-4 loupe, ARI, 5-8 Comic Character Watches by Hy Brown plnlons, making, 7-36 Lukavetzkl quarter striker, 10-14, 11-14, and Nancy Thomas, 12-41 pivot hardness, 10-22 12-24 Complete Guide to Watches, No. 12 by pivots, worn, 1-16 Cooksey Shugart and Richard Gilbert, pivot work, 2-14 M 6-32 quail cuckoo, 11-8 mainsprings, fusee barrel, 10-34 Forgotten Angel-The Story of Lydia Moss raw materials for clock wheels, 5-28 Marti French clock, 5-30 Bradley by Allen A. Upton, 8-24 regulator escapements, 8-22 metals in clockmaking, 5-18 Hamilton Watch, 1892-1992--Timefor Roulet, Jean, carriage, 7-6 "Milltary Time" America by Don Sauers, 9-48 saws, 9-20 Bulova model lOAK, 5-38 Les Brocot Une Dynastle D'Horlogers by SMQ, 1-20, 3-46 Bulova model lOBNCH, 7-28 Richard Chavtgny, 10-41 stopwork calculations, 1-18 Elgin wristwatch, 9-40, 11-44 Making and Repairing Wooden Clock tools for clockmakers, 5-28 ship's chronometer/Naval use, 1-32 Cases by V.J. Taylor and H.A. Babb, torch, 12-22 wristwatches, milltary, 3-44 4-36 tower, hands, 10-22 Minerva stopwatch, 2-32 Marine & Pocket Chronometers by Hans Waterbury, strike setup, 1-20 Mosler timelocks, 5-12 Von Bertele, 2-38 Waterbury, train engine, 2-6 Military Timepieces by Marvin E. Whitney, computer N and watch technology, 1-43 6-33 National Geographic Society, "PC Clock," 2-28 101 Wooden Clock Patterns by Joyce R. "It's a Matter of Time," 7-18 contrate wheel for carriage clock, 6-30 Novak,4-36 Neveren, D.D., watch, 1-5 Practical Balance and Hairspring Work by Walter J. Kleinlein, 6-32 D p Proper Use of the Watchmaker's Graver by "Dauntless" watch, 11-4 Patek Philippe wristwatch, 5-6, 5-36, Homer A. Barkus, 6-32 Dearborn NAWCC Show, 10-38 7-40, 8-30 Royal Clocks, the British Monarchy and its Dennison, Howard, and Davis watch, 1-38 "PC Clock" computer program, 2-28 Timekeepers, 1300-1900 by Cedric diamond setting, 7-26, 8-26, 9-12, 10-24, pendulum length, changing, 7-4 7 Jagger, 4-37 11-41, 12-18 Petticrew, John, clock, 6-4 This Old Clock by David S. Goodman, plnlons, making, 7-36 8-24 E pivot holes Wristwatches: History of a Century's Elgtn wristwatch, 9-40, 11-44 antique watch, 1-10 Development by Kahlert, Muhe, and enamel painting, miniature, 1-8 uprighting, 3-10 Brunner, 4-36 ETA 2783, 12-6 pivots, worn (clock), 1-16 bracket clock, 4-4 Eureka Project Extend, 3-43, 10-20 BREVl stopwatch, 1-4 electric clock (1906), 3-6 Bulova wristwatch Gallery clock, 11-34 model lOAK, 5-38 9 model 1 OBNCH, 7-28 quail cuckoo clock, 11-8 F "Questions & Answers" Falconer watch, 8-32 Alton watch, 8-4, 10-6 c files in clockmaking, 6-38 bracket clock, 4-4 Cartier "Helm" wristwatch, 5-36 French carriage clock, 9-16 chatons, 9-6 center wheel bushing, making, 3-28 fusee barrel mainspring jig, 10-34 Colonial grandfather clock, 5-4 chatons, 9-6 "Dauntless" watch, 11-4 chime rods, sound from, 5-30 G Dutch floor clock, 12-4 clock gear and pinion, missing, 3-18 ETA 2783, 12-6 aircraft, 8-22 gearing, clock, 6-30 Eureka electric clock, 3-6 arbor, broken, 3-24 French morbler, 5-4 Atmos, 5-44, 6-14, 7-32, 8-18 H H & H, 12-6 automobile, 8-22 H & H crystal regulator, 12-6 Huguenin pocket watch, 2-8 bench accessories, 11-20 Huguenin pocket watch, 2-8 Junghans strlking clock, 3-6 bracket, 4-4 December 1992/Horological Times 47 "Lord Watch," 3-8 stocking jewelry inventory, 5-42 ABCs of watch repair, 12-35 Lady Olga watch, 4-6 turnover, 6-42 Berthoud verge fusee, 12-28 Lancashire watch, 9-4, 10-4 window displays, 1-30 BREVI stopwatch, 1-4 Patek Philippe wristwatch, 5-6 SMQ automobile clock, 1-20, 3-46 Bulova model lOAK, 5-38 Petticrew, John, clock, 6-4 soldering, 4-26, 5-40 Bulova model lOBNCH, 7-28 Roulet, Jean, carriage clock, 7 -6 problems, 6-8 Cartier "Helm," 5-36 Sewill, Joseph H., 9-4 Sovlet watches, 4-40 center wheel bushing, 3-28 Stafford, T. watch, 10-6 Stafford, T. watch, 10-6 "Dauntless," 11-4 Stevens, E. watch, 7-4 St. Aubin, 8-32 Dennison, Howard, and Davis, 1-38 Swiss calendar watch, 10-6 steel, 5-18 Elgin, 9-40, 11-44 Tongue, J.G. keyless, 1-4 Stevens, E. watch, 7-4 Falconer, 8-32 Van der Hey, Gerrltt, 12-4 stone setting, 7-26, 8-26, 9-12, 10-24, Huguenin pocket, 2-8 Ward, John watch, 4-6 11-41, 12-18 Lady Olga, 4-6 Waterbury train engine clock, 2-6 Swatch watches, 3-32, 7-37 Lancashire, 10-4 Lancashire, fusee, 9-4 R T Lange, A. & Sohne, 5-4 7 REC schools tlmelocks LeCoultre, 8-6 Emily Grtffith Opportunity School, Mosler, 5-12 Longines chronograph, 5-37 12-40 resetting overwinds, 6-18 "Lord Watch,• 3-8 listing of, 8-41 Sargent & Greenleaf, 4-10 military wristwatches, various, 3-44 OSU/Okmulgee, 2-40, 9-24 Tongue, J.G. keyless watch, 1-4 Minerva stopwatch, 2-32 Paris Junior College, 1-48 tools, jewelry repair Neveren, 1-5 St. Paul Technical College, 3-26, see jewelry crafting I repair Patek Philippe, 5-6, 5-36, 7-40, 8-30 11-48 torch, for clockmaker, 12-22 Rolex Oyster, 5-36 Winter Park Adult Voe. Center, 10-40 tour, Henry B. Fried horological Seiko stems, 3-40 Rolex Oyster Cosmograph, 5-36 itinerary, 3-38 Sovlet, 4-40 Roulet, Jean carriage clock, 7-6 recap, 8-44 Stevens, E., 7-4 Swatch, 3-32, 7-37 s u Swiss calendar, 10-6 safety chains for watch bracelets, 7 -10 U.S. Naval Observatory, 1-32 testing for water resistance, 10-10 Sargent & Greenleaf tlmelocks, 4-10 Tongue, J.G. keyless, 1-4 saws, clockmaktng, 9-20 v trends in shows, 5-36 Seiko stems, chart, 3-40 value verge escapement, 10-28 Sewill, Joseph H., 9-4 of employee, 5-34 verge escape wheel, making, 11-24 "Shop Talk" to guild, 6-12 Ward, John, 4-6 across the showcase, 11-12 to your customers, 6-12 Washington's, 8-10 bookkeeping. 7 -45 to yourself, 7-20 Waterbury buying watch Inventory, 2-30 Van der Hey, Gerritt, 12-4 strike setup, 1-20 Christmas selling, 12-36 train engine clock, 2-6 expansion watch band Inventory, 3-34 w water reslstence testing, 10-10 forms, 8-16 Ward, John watch, 4-6 non-expansion watch band Inventory, Washington, George watch, 8-10 4-16 watch ordering material, 8-16 see also under "Antique Watch selling, 9-26, 10-42 Restoration• KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating the problem in a quartz analog movement. The only tool required is a meter. Material and instructions for learning this test are supplied by the AWI-ELM Trust as part of their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group setting. However, for individuals who may not be able to participate in a group, it is available to them also. For more information call or write to the AWI office for an information sheet and application form. 48 Horological Times/December 1992 100 Piece Mineral 32 Piece 399 Piece Glass Slitclin11 • O·Ring Crystals Top~ Clatsps Gaskets $6§95 ~ggs $Jg9s ;~ : f~rr/ele,!~ ~$~fe~ion tor ~ Cas·~Co. ·. 1-' - , - .. 2121 SPRING-'-- GROVE AVENUE PO BOX. 14069 ,CINCl!J,NATi 'dH f1525Q-0069 AWi BENCH COURSES To register for these courses, please send along with your request a registration fee of $35 per instruction day (for AWi members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: (513) 661-3131. For more information, call (513) 661-3838. JANUARY 1993 MAY 1993 9-10--Advanced Quartz Watch Repair-Greenville, SC 8-9--Beginning Lathe--New York, NY 15-16--Lathe Accessories--New York, NY 23-24--Advanced Quartz Watch Repalr--Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX 21--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX l FEBRUARY 1993 / 7--Technlcal Speakers Semlnar--Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX COURSES & INSTRUCTORS 13-14--Advanced Quartz Watch Repalr--San Diego, CA Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair 19-20-Repalr of the Atmos Clock--Boston, MA Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW 20-21--Beglnnlng Lathe--Los Angeles, CA Advanced Quartz Watch Repair 20-21-lntroductlon to Clock Repalr--Atlanta, GA Robert Bishop, CMEW Basic Pocket Watch 21-Baslc Pocket Watch--Atlanta, GA Allee Carpenter, CMW, CMEW 21-22--Repalr of the Atmos Clock--Boston, MA Introduction to Clock Repair 27-28--Lathe Accessorles--Los Angeles, CA Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Advanced Clock Repair Roland Iverson, CMC MARCH 1993 Repair of the Atmos Clock 6-7--Cuckoo Clock Repalr--Kansas City, MO Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Beginning Lathe 6-7--Strlklng Clocks--Denver, CO James Lubic 12-14--Advanced Clock Repalr--Grand Junction, CO (FULL) Cuckoo Clock Repair 20-21--Beglnnlng Lathe--New Orleans, LA James Williams, CC 27-28--Lathe Accessories-New Orleans, LA 400-Day Clock Repair John A. Nagle Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs APRIL1993 James Broughton, CMEW l 4--Servlcing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Chicago, IL Remy Waelchli Advanced Lathe J 18-20--AWI Southwest Technical Conclave--Las Vegas, NV Roy Hovey Striking Clocks John Nagle \. PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES FOR 1993 Contact AWi Central for the General Information brochure for Project Extend and specific course brochures for classes that interest you. Feb. 8-12 Watch I James Lubic May 3-7 Clock Ill David Christianson (staffing, poising, timing) (restoration) Feb. 15-19 Watch II Harold Herman May 10-14 Watch VI Allee Carpenter (hairspring vibrating, finishing) (basic pocket watches) March 8-12 Watch Ill James Lubic June 7-12* Lathe I Roy Hovey (complicated mechanical) (basic) March 15-19 Watch V Ron Decorte June 14-19* Lathe II Roy Hovey (advanced pocket watches-- (advanced) service and restoration) * 6-day class