Cover Feb 2013_Passport Cover Mar 2011 12/11/12 4:02 PM Page 1

TRAVEL • CULTURE • STYLE • ADVENTURE • ROMANCE! PASSPORTPASSPORT

INSIDER’S GUIDE INSIDER’S GUIDE ISLAND HOPPING HONG KONG GREECE & WORLD EATS TURKEY HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL 5 FABULOUS FITNESS CRUISE VACATIONS CALENDAR

DANUBE WHAT’S NEW IN RIVER CRUISE TURKS & CAICOS IN THE VIP LOUNGE WITH ALANIS GLOBETROTTING MORISSETTE DISNEY’S MAGIC

FEBRUARY 2013 USA $4.95 CANADA $5.95 Santorini

32 PASSPORT I FEBRUARY 2013 GREECE +TURKEY Aboard the Star Clipper By Stuart Haggas

FEBRUARY 2013 I PASSPORT 33 concierge travel cruise greece & turkey

took my very first gay cruise in 2002, sailing from Istanbul to was followed in 2011 by a small sailing ship cruise to Costa Rica and Athens with RSVP Vacations on board the Royal Clipper, a voy- Panama. Then in the summer of 2012, Concierge Travel chartered the Star age that I covered for Passport’s first cruise issue in February Clipper for what would be its first all-gay European cruise. 2003. I was by no means a pioneer (RSVP’s first cruise sailed “We actually never intended to be a tour operator with our own char- out of New Orleans in 1986), but it seems that in the past decade ters,” says Kim Gustavsson, Concierge Travel’s vice president of sales moreI and more of us are choosing gay cruise vacations. and marketing. The voyages appear to get bigger and more ambitious every year: for “However, through selling big ships and various other travel experi- 2013, RSVP has a Southern Caribbean cruise for 2,100 guests, while ences, we had grown quite a large clientele that wanted small-ship prod- Atlantis Events is offering a Caribbean cruise with 3,700 passengers, a ucts. I think the desire for the small-ship experience was because of the inti- Singapore to Hong Kong cruise with 2,000 passengers, and a New macy they create as well as the wider variety of ports that they can offer.” Zealand to Australia cruise with 1,800 passengers. But as Gustavsson explains, it wasn’t that people were rejecting big- It’s not just guys who enjoy big ocean adventures: founded in 1973, ship cruises. “As we spoke to clients, it was clear they wanted the small- Olivia celebrates its 40th Anniversary in 2013 with two back-to-back ship experience in addition to the big-ship experience. It was not a sailings aboard Holland America’s 2,100-capacity ms Nieuw Amster- choice of one over the other; they simply wanted both.” dam for what will be the largest lesbian cruise ever. Nor is it exclusive- ly American: with two sold-out cruises under its belt, Europe’s La nspired by 19th-century sailing ships that swiftly brought precious car- Demence is planning its third Mediterranean adventure in 2013 for goes like teas, spices, and opium from the Far East to Europe, the Star 1,440 passengers, including an overnight stop in Israel to participate in IClipper is an authentic working clipper ship with four masts and 16 the Tel Aviv Gay Pride Parade. sails. To hoist the sails, deploy the anchor, and splice the main brace are a The guys at Concierge Travel are no strangers to these figures. This crew of skilled sailors in white and blue nautical uniforms. Carrying a max- Houston–based business has booked many gay men and lesbians onto big- imum of 170 passengers in a style reminiscent of the grand age of sailing, ship cruises. Nonetheless, they saw that a demand exists for more intimate the Star Clipper features sun-bleached teak decks, varnished mahogany small-ship experiences, and in 2009, Concierge Travel reacted to the handrails, and gleaming buffed brass work, while the wood-paneled public demand by offering for the first time its own small-ship charter, taking areas are decorated with antique-style furniture and artwork. inspiration from Charles Darwin and cruising the Galápagos Islands. This There were more hints of the grand age of travel in the itinerary, which included classic Greek destinations like Santorini, Patmos, and Monemvasia, as well as the Turkish port of Kuşadası and the ancient archaeological site of Ephesus. As I’d made my maiden voyage on board the Star Clipper’s sister ship ten years ago, I welcomed the invi- tation to sample once again an authentic sailing experience. With a name like Concierge Travel, you anticipate a certain level of personal service and expertise, and Gustavsson and the whole team were attentive and welcoming throughout the voyage. Though with 79% being repeat clients who’ve traveled with Concierge in the past, you could argue that there weren’t so many new names and faces to welcome. Altogether, 93% on board were gay men and 7% women. More than half were 35-50 years, 38% were 50-65 years, with just a couple of passengers under 35 or over 65. Seventy-one percent were American, 18% Canadian, with a smattering of British, French, Irish, Swedish, and German. Many had opted for the pre-cruise package in Athens, including accommodation and a gala dinner at the five-star Electra Palace Hotel, a morning walking tour exploring the ancient Acropolis and the new Acropolis Museum, and a traditional Greek lunch in the picturesque Plaka neighborhood. The coach transfer to the port of Piraeus was itself upgraded to a mini city tour, taking in famous sights including Hadrian’s Arch, the impressive Panathenaic Stadium, and the decadent neo-classical National Library, University, and Academy of Athens. Of particular interest was the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier on Syn- tagma Square, watched over around the clock by sentries of the Presiden- tial Guard. Known as Evzones, their distinctive ceremonial uniform com- prises a skirt-like cotton tunic, white woolen stockings with tasseled , red leather clogs with black pompoms, and a jaunty red cap with a long black tassel. Rather than the uniform of an elite infantry regiment, it resembles something that Lady Gaga might wear. Our guide explained that not only is there a minimum height require- ment of 6’ 10’’, but each prospective Evzone is matched with another of similar height, build and coloring (including eye color) so they’re aestheti- Evzones in Athens cally twin-like when paired up for sentry duty. They switch positions with

34 PASSPORT I FEBRUARY 2013 concierge travel cruise greece & turkey

Greek Church on Santorini

There were more hints of the grand age of travel in the itinerary, which included classic Greek destinations like Santorini, Patmos, and Monemvasia, as well as the Turkish port of Kuşadası and the ancient archaeological site of Ephesus. each other in a slow and stylized manner every 15 minutes, but are other- nce all aboard the Star Clipper, and formalities such as the wise required to remain statue-still—so taking into account the outlandish compulsory lifeboat drill dispensed with, we convened on attire, the wilting heat of the Greek sun, and the crowds of unruly camera- Odeck with cocktails and cameras to enjoy the first of many wielding tourists, it must be a tough gig (although whoever gets to peruse majestic views as Captain Sergey and his crew set us on course for and pair up the new recruits clearly has the best job ever). The sentries our first port: Mykonos. But first, there was a busy evening on board, change on the hour every hour; but for an orgy of Evzones marching to a including a welcome dinner, a slice of LGBT cabaret to accompany military band, don’t miss the Grand Change at 11 A.M. on Sundays. dessert, and a toga under the stars. This large square is also on the frontline of the war against austerity “The big ships have and entertainment of a level that is measures: thousands of demonstrators frequently converge here to hard to match on the smaller ships,” Gustavsson acknowledged. “The oppose the harsh penalties that Greece is required to accept alongside any small ships tend to be more intimate. On a big ship, you can stay financial bailouts. There was, however, surprisingly little evidence of the incognito, on a small ship you will know everyone by the time you Greek Financial Crisis during my time in Athens. Instead came news of walk off the ship. They are simply different experiences.” the many celebrities showing solidarity by vacationing in Greece, includ- This doesn’t mean that the parties and entertainment on a smaller ship ing The New York Post quoting Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie saying: “We is below par. To ensure everyone was kept entertained, Concierge Travel love Greece too much to leave, we have other islands to go to.” And true brought music on board and comedy duo Amy & Freddy, who, as well as to their word, the summer 2012 itinerary of this A-list couple is reputed performing regularly in Chicago, touring coast to coast, releasing three to have included Pylos, Halkidiki, Mykonos, and Santorini. Other Holly- music CDs, and being featured on national television on Entertainment wood stars giving the Greek tourist industry a boost include Robert De Tonight, have performed on over 50 LGBT cruises including every single Niro, John Travolta, Tom Hanks, and Ethan Hawke, while Lady Gaga is RSVP Vacations cruise for over a decade. “We always have fun perform- reportedly building a multi-million dollar floating mansion on the Greek ing on land or sea, but performing on a cruise is special. It has a sense of island of Crete, so we were in illustrious company. magic to it,” they told me. “Concierge Travel cruises are different because

FEBRUARY 2013 I PASSPORT 35 concierge travel cruise greece & turkey they are more intimate. You really get to know all the other passengers. We nown for its picturesque whitewashed houses, iconic wind- have made so many friends on Concierge Travel cruises. By the end of the mills, chic shopping, dining, and decadent party scene, week, it’s kinda sad, because we have to say goodbye to our new friends. KMykonos was our first port. Refreshingly, no excursions were At least, until the next cruise.” offered—the assumption being that although there’s plenty to do here, Amy’s voice and personality could fill the biggest cruise ship the absolute must do is to soak up the energy of the Greek sun on an auditorium, but here in the intimate surroundings of the Star Clipper idyllic gay beach like Elia. Mykonos doesn’t come alive until after mid- you’re likely to be a part of the action, rather than a mere spectator. night, so you’ll need all the energy you can muster. To give everyone on I was genuinely astounded by the fact that Amy would know and board an opportunity to experience the island’s nocturnal side, the Star remember everyone’s name, and whenever she saw you she’d greet Clipper would remain at anchor until 3 A.M. you like a great friend. We were fortunate to arrive during the five-day XLsior . There’d been a Toga party on board my very first cruise, with everyone Established in 2009, today it attracts more than 22,000 gay travelers being issued a surplus bed sheet to drape around themselves in some sem- from all over the world for parties hosted by renowned European club blance of a toga, so I expected something similar on this occasion. Oh, how brands such as Spain’s Matinée Group, London’s Beyond, and Amster- things have changed! Improvising a toga from a bed sheet always meant there dam’s Rapido. The gay-popular Elysium Hotel had plans for a poolside was a risk that you would look less like an ancient Greek, and more like an tea dance so spectacular it threatened to eclipse the sunset, but instead unmade bed—a fashion disaster that gay cruise passengers now avoid by I made my way through the whitewashed maze of bougainvillea-scent- bringing their own toga. Many were spectacularly draped, edged with Greek ed streets to Bar Porta, run by vivacious French expat Sophie. As I key pattern trim, and accompanied by crowns of golden laurel wreaths, strap- caught up on island gossip over shots of mastika, the lights, music, and py , and sexy leather accessories worthy of a Spartan warrior. One air conditioning suddenly and inexplicably went off. Unperturbed, couple concealed themselves completely with head-to-toe white Lycra body- Sophie distributed fans while the DJ turned the volume of his MacBook , so they resembled gay superheroes, Olympians, or WWE wrestlers, up, and the party atmosphere resumed. Later I learned that this black- although I guess they were meant to be classical Greek statues. Such creativ- out had affected much of the island. Was it a sign of Greece’s financial ity and ingenuity was seen at every themed party throughout the voyage. On woes, or had the arrival of 170 additional gay men and lesbians on the the only night when there was no official themed party, a couple of the pas- Star Clipper, on top of the estimated 22,000 already on the island, sengers instigated an impromptu Black Underwear party that proved very tipped the balance and overloaded the power? popular, so there was undoubtedly an appetite to party. Power was soon restored, and the party migrated to the harbor where

The Star Clipper

36 PASSPORT I FEBRUARY 2013 concierge travel cruise greece & turkey gay bars Jackie O’ and Babylon have this been joined by new venue Glam Mykonos. This waterfront strip was awash with sexy party Mykonos boys, and as the hour approached for the last tender back to the ship I felt a Cinderella–like sense of sadness that it was time to up anchor. Our next destination was Patmos. With a population of around 3,000, it’s lovely little islands such as this that can’t handle big cruise ships, but welcome boats such as the Star Clipper with pic- turesque bays and glorious vistas. Despite the island’s insignificant size, it’s played a significant role in the story of the world, for it was here in a cave where St. John of Patmos is said to have heard a voice from a cleft in the rock that told an incredible story about the Beast, the Whore Of Babylon, Armageddon, and the Second Coming of Jesus, prompting the writing of the Book of Revelation. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Cave Of The Apocalypse is vis- ited by tourists and pilgrims. Another site worthy of a pilgrimage is the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian. Dramatically situated above a whitewashed village, its Amphitheater in thick fortifications were built to deter pirates and Seljuk Turks. Today, they Ephesus enclose a liturgical world of peaceful courtyards, chapels, galleries, and arcades. The chapels feature spectacular Byzantine frescos, some dating from the 12th century: look closely and you’ll see macabre imagery taken from the Book of Revelation, including horrific beasts, tortured souls, and decapitated infants. The monastery’s Treasury displays an extensive col- lection of religious art including icons, mosaics, and ancient parchments. This being a working monastery, home to around 40 Orthodox monks, you should be wary of sporadic public opening hours. It’s believed that St. John was in exile on Patmos from the ancient city of Ephesus. Appropriately, our next port was the Turkish resort town of Kuşadası, just eight miles from Ephesus. This magnificent archaeological site is the best-preserved ancient city in the Eastern Mediterranean, and is the regions’ main tourist attraction. Only an esti- mated 15% of the site has been excavated, but must-see structures, including the Library of Celsus, the Basilica of St. John, and the Tem- ple of Hadrian, give visitors a hint of the city’s original splendor. As part of a gay tour group, your guide will enthusiastically identify the more salacious archaeological details, such as a footprint etched in marble on the main street that would have shown the way to the broth- el. The first-century public latrine also provides a unique photo-op. Use of the latrine was restricted to men, and the remains suggest it was a Kuşadasi surprisingly communal affair, although back then it would have been lavishly decorated with marble columns, bronze statues, and mosaic floors to distract the eye from any goings-on. In Kuşadası itself, you’ll find a plethora of shops selling everything from Turkish rugs and silver jewelry to local honey scented with wildflow- ers, thyme, or orange blossom. The persuasive shopkeepers are certainly keen to do whatever it takes to earn your business, and your dollars. One notable aspect of our time here was that our diminutive sailboat was anchored alongside the massive 2,700-capacity Celebrity Equinox, on charter by Atlantis Events for their largest all-gay European cruise. The contrast between the two ships was staggering to behold. Gustavsson of Concierge Travel agreed: “While in Kuşadası, we were on a pier next to one of the big ships chartered by Atlantis Events. We had quite a few clients on board that sold out big-ship sailing, and at the same time, there we were on our own small ship. It was actually the moment when I came to the realization of what I want our company to be about and committed to. I was thrilled that we were able to offer the small-ship expe- rience with the level of customer experience that we can offer on them. I am also thrilled that we have a large following that wants the big-ship experience, and that we can offer both products.”

FEBRUARY 2013 I PASSPORT 37 concierge travel cruise greece & turkey

his contrast was reinforced by our final two destinations. A dra- matic crescent-shaped island that is in fact the remains of a huge Tvolcanic caldera, Santorini is one of the most-famous and pop- ular cruise ship destinations. Its candy-colored architecture and spec- tacular panoramas were enjoyed by thousands of passengers from three big ships on the day we dropped anchor. However, the surprise highlight for me and for many of my fellow Concierge travelers was the unfamil- iar and unspoiled charm of Monemvasia. Dating from medieval times, this tiny fortified village clings to the side of a dramatic rocky islet. Linked to the Greek mainland by a short causeway, everyone must abandon their vehicles and enter on foot via a single fortress gate. Traversing the narrow cobbled alleys, you’re more likely to encounter a skulking cat than a fellow tourist, and there’s an air of timeless tranquility at every twist and turn. The more energetic can give their thighs a workout by following a winding track up past the highest ramparts to the islands rocky plateau. Or, you can simply enjoy the shady central square and relish tasty local fare like saiti (flaky pastry filled with feta cheese, mint, dill, and wild greens) or stamna (a robust beef stew with cinnamon). In spite of the stunning places we visited, the most potent memories, for me are those from on board the Star Clipper itself: meeting new friends each evening at dinner, the hilarity of attempting to line dance in cowboy boots while the ship veered steeply during a stormy Country & Western party, being amused by two handsome young Swedes from the ship’s watersports team who enthusiastically joined our parties but were left blushing from all the attention, watching a special screening of Bish- op Gene Robertson’s award-winning documentary Love Free Or Die,

Santorini Monastery of St John the Theologian, Patmos

then chuckling when he entered the Best Tan Line contest, teasing every- one by flashing the tan line made by his wristwatch. One final aspect of Concierge Travel that’s worth mentioning, in fact worth shouting about, is that Gustavsson and his partner Jack take no salaries or income from the travel side of the company. “Once the over- head, staff salaries, charters, etc. are covered, the net profits go to not-for profit organizations,” Gustavsson explains. “For the last two years our main effort and thrust has been to support HRC at the level of National Bronze Corporate Partner and with our donations they have raised approximately $120,000. We have also over the years supported local and national organizations such as the Dinners in Dallas and Hous- ton, BCBC (Bayou City Boys Club), Houston Pride Band, the Diana’s, Halloween New Orleans, Diving for Life, Bunnies on the Bayou, the Gay Soft League and the Canadian Gay Open Tennis Tournament. “This year we have changed our focus and are supporting some interna- tional organizations working for equality around the world. The first organ- ization that we have donated to is SMUG (Sexual Minorities of Uganda) where we have set up a four-year scholarship fund for a gay or lesbian stu- dent who is studying in the field of either law or medicine and has a com- mitment to making a difference in their country in one of those areas. We are also donating to their health clinic as well as their efforts to fight legis- lation that would make homosexuality punishable by death. The organiza- tions that we support come highly recommended through internationally recognized organizations such as Amnesty International. Nationally, we also have signed on recently as a Founding Partner with OutServe, an organiza- tion supporting GLBT members in the armed forces of the nation.” Next time you’re planning a gay cruise vacation, why not consider down- scaling to small and more personable ship and experience? Size matters, but sometimes it’s smaller things that make a bigger difference.

38 PASSPORT I FEBRUARY 2013