DOSSIER of – A Legend Alive Moldova, one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, has recently undergone a series of startling transformations, from new investments to the founding of a national wine body. Loca- ted at the crossroads of Europe, the Republic of Moldova is a producer of fresh, novel .

Flying into Chisinau, the capital of wine and every third consumed­ ­opinion piece: “If there were an Olympic the Republic of Moldova, the visitor in the USSR was produced in Moldova. competition for bravest country in the world, Fsees green, rolling countryside. It’s Mikhail Gorbachev’s anti-alcohol measures ­­ the gold medal might well go to Moldova.” not surprising to learn that Moldova used resulted in grubbing up vines on a vast scale,­ to be the vegetable garden of the former­ gutting the industry. After the collapse of RADICAL OVERHAUL , supplying vegetables, communism, however, many wineries were ­walnuts, cherries, plums and other stone privatized and the new owners invested in The Moldovans reacted to the loss of fruits – and wine. modern technology and higher quality clonal­ their Russian market by making dramatic Not only are there vineyards everywhere, material. Popular international varietals changes. A tour through Moldova’s wine but most villagers grow their own and spread, and flying winemakers brought their regions reveals new investments, new make their own wines. Wine is more than a expertise. ­vineyard plantings, new clonal materials, a drink to Moldova – it’s part of their national remained Moldova’s major­ ­market, rediscovery of autochthonous varieties and identity. taking up to 90% of exports, until­ the ‘wine new wine tourism infrastructure. In the past eight years, Moldovan wine ban’ of 2006 – when Russia ­refused entry Today, Moldovan exports 80% of its ­producers have been buffeted by historic to ­Moldovan wines in apparent ­retaliation ­wines, sending 67m bottles to more than 30 events that have sent them in a new, inter- for political­ decisions – were devastating. markets. Exports to former Soviet countries national direction. The changes have been Although the wine ban was lifted in 2007, now represent 68% of total exports – a much ­tremendous and, at times, painful. But the Moldova refused to drop its pro-European ­ healthier figure than the 90% of 2004. Since hard work is paying off... policies and the ban was ­re-imposed 2009, Moldovan wines have made inroads­ in 2013. As New York Times journa- into the markets of , the Czech CRAFTED BY GENERATIONS list Nicholas­ Kristof said in an April 2014 ­Republic, , the USA and China. OF WINEMAKERS

In the centre of the capital, Chisinau, is a park dedicated to the ruler Stephen the Great. During the 15th century he not only defen- ded the country against the Ottoman Empire, but he also imported new varieties, increased vine area, and made huge quality improve­ments. The first Moldovan vines have beendated ­ to 7000 BCE, while wine has been made here since 3000 BCE, first by the Dacian ­people, through to the the Roman period in the first century. But under the Ottoman Empire, ­ stopped for 300 years. It began again in the 19th century, only to be devas- tated by , and then World War I. The modern Moldovan wine era dates to the ­Soviet period, when the vineyard area expan- ded to 220,000 ha, to ensure the Russian mar- The historic Purcari Winery, which overlooks the Nistru River. ket was supplied with wine; every second still

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To support these efforts, the wine laws THE WINE OF MOLDOVA have been overhauled, protected geographical ­ LOGO: THE STORK indicators (PGIs) formalised, and €330m invested­ in the wine sector. Significantly, a When Moldova was invaded, soldiers at the national ­program for generic promotion – historic Soroca fortress kept the aggressors at Wine of Moldova – has been created. bay. But as supplies dwindled, the defenders be- In December 2013, in the presence of US gan to starve. Legend has it that flocks of storks Secretary of State John Kerry, the new Wine appeared and fed them grapes. Refreshed, they of Moldova brand was revealed. Launched­ were able to defeat their enemies. The striking officially at ProWein 2014, Wine of Moldova new logo of Wine of Moldova – A Legend Alive is the flagship of the wine industry, bringing – commemorates both the stork and the grapes, Moldovan wines to the world. as a symbol of the continual revival of Moldova. Moldova at a glance

Moldova sits in the Black Sea basin where viti- The central PGI of Codru, where more than culture first appeared: 60% of wine is produced, enjoys mild, warm MOLDOVA ENTERS summers, with long winters. The region’s AN AGREEMENT • There are 112,000 ha of land under vine. many forests protect the vineyards from WITH THE EU • It has more than 30 Vitis vinifera varieties: drought. Codru is renowned for its whites. 70% white, 30% red. In November 2013, Moldova and the • 10% of the vineyards are planted to The southern PGI Valul lui Traian is where EU entered an Association Agreement ­indigenous varieties. most of Moldova’s red wine production takes which includes a Deep and Com- • Wine accounts for 3% of Moldova’s GDP. place. prehensive Free Trade Area (DCFTA). • Wine represents almost 8% of Moldova’s As well as opening markets to one total exports. Southeastern PGI Ștefan-Vodă, located in the another, this offers Moldova a way • The sector employs more than 200,000 basin of the Nistru River, includes the famous to align its standards with the EU. In people Purcari region. It produces both red and white practice, this means Moldova now • Moldova is ranked by the OIV as the world’s wines. conforms to regulations aimed at pro- 13th largest wine exporter. ducing quality, not quantity. The core • The total harvest is about 500,000 tons, INDIGENOUS GRAPE institution to implement these changes producing 1.3m hL of wine. VARIETIES is the National Office for Wine and • €330m are being invested in the sector. Vine, which is fully empowered to As well as international varietals, Moldova is develop the program. The National THE REGIONS home to a number of promising autochtho- Wine Fund – funded with 50/50 nous varietals, including: contributions from both the state Moldova, whose shape recalls the grape and private sectors – is the ­resource ­cluster, is located at 46° latitude. The Black Feteasca Albă for the implementation of the new Sea terroir, including low hills, sunny plateaus,­ a delicate white, also programs. In addition the plains and forests, crisscrossed by streams used in the production of European Investment Bank has flowing into the and Nistru ­rivers, is sparkling wines. opened a €75m credit line for moderately-continental. Indeed, there are few PGI wine producers. Last places on the earth where the wine grape ­ Feteasca Regală but not least, a focused performs so well. There are four historic a refreshing white hybrid of Feteasca marketing program has wine regions, three of which now have EU-­ Albă and . been developed. recognised PGI status: Moldova has studied Feteasca Neagră the world’s best Balti is Moldova’s smallest, most northern is a pre-Phylloxera red variety, which produ- practice, and is region. With longer and cooler winters than ces dry and semi-red and rosé wines. now putting these the other regions, coupled with warm, dry findings to work, in the building summers. Suitable for white wine and brandy Rara Neagră of its own national framework. (known locally as ‘divin’) production. produces light, fruity wines.

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It’s early evening in Chisinau, the capital,­ The wines being served as Luca speaks Moldova was producing in such great quanti- and the Carpe Diem wine bar and shop is range from international varietals and crisp ties. Cricova was established in 1952. ­filling up with young professionals. Wine ­roses, to fine expressions of Moldova’s lively Today, it’s an underground city, complete ­tasting is going on at the bar, while meat and indigeneous varieties. The wines are proof with 120km of underground roads, vast spar- cheese platters are served to the wine lovers that it’s not only the small and up-and-coming kling wine facilities, wine storage halls, and lavish squeezed around the tables. producers who are investing in quality – across tasting rooms. So impressive are the facilities,­ Owner Ion Luca says wine was his ­destiny. Moldova, the wine industry is reinventing itself. that foreign dignitaries are not only entertained “I come from a family very involved in ­wineries here, but are given their own wine collections; – my father and brother work at Cricova,” GUINNESS RECORD FOR it’s all too tempting to stop and touch Vladimir he says, naming one of the country’s most THE LARGEST WINE Putin’s collection, or Angela Merkel’s. When US ­famous wineries. Luca is also president of the COLLECTION Secretary of State John Kerry visited last year, he Small Wine Producers Association; Moldova too was granted a set of wines. has ­historically been dominated by large, Cricova, located 20 km from Chisinau, is Another collection is that of German Field former state-owned enterprises. Now, small an astounding winery, by any standards, situ- Marshal Hermann Goering, who took his wine winemakers are emerging, as once onerous ated in the heart of Moldova, and surrounded to the Eastern Front with him; the wines were regulations are removed. Luca says that his 11 by natural and historic attractions such as the subsequently seized by the Red Army. The cellar members are the next chapter in Moldova’s Codru Wilderness Area. Famous for its spar- guide says Cricova is regularly approached by long wine history. “Only six of them are on the kling wines, Cricova began as a limestone mine. collectors and auction houses hoping to buy the market right now. The rest are planting their After World War II there was an urgent need wines, but that Cricova will never sell. vineyards and planning their brands.” The for building materials, so limestone was in huge Cricova is not the largest Moldovan ­typical member, he says, is someone young demand and as blocks were removed from ­winery; that honour goes to Milestii Mici, and passionate, who has worked internatio- ­underground, a network of tunnels was crea- created as a state enterprise in 1969. Two nally, but returned to Moldova because they ted. This coincided with a post-war need to find fountains on the surface appear to be spou- believe in the terroir. somewhere to store and stabilise the wines that ting red and white wines (but which are just coloured water, alas). Milestii Mici also has underground streets - all 200 km of them. As well as being the largest cellar in the world, the 2007 Guinness Book of Records noted that it had the largest wine collection in the world (2m bottles).

APPRECIATED BY CONSUMERS IN BOTH EAST AND WEST

In the bucolic village of Butuceni, the producer ­Mimi Wines came to show wines over lunch. Over a meal of stone fruits, walnuts, ­cucumbers, tomatoes and pickles, with meats and cheeses, a variety of modern, commercial wines were poured, from and to Rose. But what’s also striking about the wines is the modern, colourful labels, which are so different to the traditional labels that used to adorn Moldovan wines. The labels are Cricova Winery, with its 120 km of under- a ­testament to how seriously producers are ground tunnels, is a national treasure. ­taking the preferences of Westerners.

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They are not the only winemakers to take to dinner.­ Although he’s got an appoint- reorient their wines towards Western prefe- ment, he’s happy to sit and talk about what rences. Gitana Winery has called in an Italian it means­ for Moldova to have closer ties to design company, whose daring labels have the . “Wine is a priority for stylised and eye-catching female faces on my country,” he says. “We’ve made wine for them, in a radical break with tradition; the thousands of years – the first vineyard was Fautor winery has both clean, elegant labels cut down when we fought the Romans and and a range of modern wines that scooped the king decided the soldiers were drinking a number of international medals. more than necessary!” And speaking of radical breaks with tra- Bumacov says the wine sector has made dition, Château Vartely – founded in 2004 major reforms, including changing laws, – was the first Moldovan winery to take ­organising a national office of wine and vine, complete control of the entire wine process, and launching the country brand, ‘Wine of Gathering grapes, the historic way. from grapegrowing on 250 ha of vineyards, Moldova. A Legend Alive’. Bumacov says the to bottling, through to selling of its 2.5m- country actively seeks investors and partners bottle production. The intent is serious, from found on the tables of Czar Nicholas II, Queen from abroad. “Now is the moment to invest,” the high tech winery equipment, through to ­Victoria, and Queen Elizabeth II and there are, he says. “The price of land is much lower the international wine library in the tasting apparently, still Purcari bottles in the cellars of than elsewhere, and is easier.” He room, intended to help visitors understand Buckingham Palace. Needless to say, Purcari adds that he’s quick to answer emails. where modern Moldovan wines sit in the wines were also valued by high- ranking Soviet There are good reasons to do business here, ­international context. The complex includes officials. not least of which are the value for money,­ a restaurant, plus several holiday homes, In 2003, the winery became the priva- high-quality wines available in commercial each built in a different historic style. And tely owned Vinaria Purcari and has had all of ­volumes, ready to be despatched from the heart the wines are serious, from international its equipment and buildings upgraded and of Europe. Wine of Moldova wants to ­diversify varietals like and Char- restored. ­Today, not only is it a must-see show- the export markets, and stands ready to help donnay, to the Feteasca Regală and even an case, but it is forging an international reputati- buyers, importers and other trade professionals, Ice Wine. on for the country, as its wines are increasingly through tailored marketing programs. Work is also currently underway at top found in markets from Japan to Germany. Luca leans over and says the industry is speed at the wineries of Asconi, where the making huge strides forward, saying that sales manager and winemaker Ion Mereuță AND SUPPORTED BY ­administrative difficulties have gone. “Now has international winemaking experience, LEGENDS EVERYONE CAN we have a small producer association!” and at Et Cetera, a winery founded by two EMBRACE Bumacov takes his bottles of wine and brothers, Igor and Alexander Luchianov. gets up to leave. “Wine is in our blood,” he ­Situated in the southeast, in the warmer As evening falls in Chisinau, Vasi- says. And, soon, Moldovan wine will be on ­region of Ștefan-Vodă, the tiny Et Cetera le Bumacov,­ the Minister for Agriculture, international shelves, as the world discovers ­winery is surrounded by new vineyards and ­comes into Carpe Diem and buys wine to the lively, fine wines of this unique country. an almost-complete restaurant. But while there is tremendous excitement around the new investments, the grand old names of the country have been building on DISCOVER THE WINES OF their strengths as well. The winery of Purcari may not have MOLDOVA FOR YOURSELF ­hundreds of kilometres of underground ­tunnels, but it has a cellar worth seeing – You are invited to visit Moldova Wine Day, held even if you have to bend to enter some parts in Chisinau on 4 to 5 October 2014. Please also of it. It was built that way, so visitors would visit us at the Wine of Moldova stand at ProWine bow to God as a mark of respect. China, from 12 to 14 November 2014. Founded in 1827, Purcari is an impressive­ chateaux-style building that overlooks the If you are interested in visiting Moldova or tasting Dniester River, in southeastern Moldova. its wines, please contact Mr. Dumitru Munteanu, From its earliest days, Purcari wines attracted the director of Wine of Moldova at international attention, particularly after its +373 69101601 or at Negru de Purcari won a gold medal at the [email protected] Paris Exhibition­ of 1878, when the judges mistakenly ­identified the wine as origina- www.wineofmoldova.com Dumitru Munteanu ting from Bordeaux. Purcari wines were later

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