ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams

Each fall, western Michigan ignites in a spectacle of blazing autumn hues, turning a lakeside driving tour into a technicolor adventure. Taking a high-speed ferry across Lake Michigan, we hurried to catch nature’s show. 16 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 6 ROUTE 66 Road Trip

Autumn along the western Michigan shoreline offers a vibrant tapestry of fall color and roadside attractions

at Fire the Water’s Edge

unrise over Lake requirements — and leave the driv- cruising into the Muskegon termi- Michigan arrives as ing to someone else. So we decid- nal. It wasn’t even 9 a.m., and the a rosy thread — the ed to try it, taking the $18 million northwestern Michigan shoreline barest suggestion of ferry from southeastern Wisconsin stretched temptingly before us in its S morning piercing a for a color tour of Michigan’s west autumn splendor. dark horizon. coast in all its fiery fall glory. Our goal was to amble north Behind you, Wisconsin twinkles The ferry, which was launched from Muskegon on U.S. 31, divert- in predawn shadows, a sputtering last year, runs from late April ing to smaller roads that hugged ribbon of lights. Before you, the through early November, weather the shoreline as much as possible rippling waters of Lake Michigan permitting. We chose a 6 a.m. in our trek toward Sleeping Bear Michigan’s splendid fall show begins in mid-September at the top of the state, yawn as far as the eye can see. departure from the Milwaukee ter- Dunes National Lakeshore. then moves southward. Peak color can Somewhere in that vast darkness minal. Reservations are strongly usually be found along the western lies the western Michigan shore- recommended. Into the Heart shoreline by early to mid-October. line. Beneath you, the pleasant hum On Lake Michigan, most commer- of Fall Color of one of America’s fastest ferries, cial vessels travel at speeds around Autumn wields a broad brush- a cargo of cars, trucks and trailers 10 to 20 knots. The Lake Express stroke along the western Michigan resting heavy in its belly. cruises at a brisk 35 knots, but still shore, leaving a rich palette of Lake Michigan is, for all practi- offers a relatively stable ride. pigment in its wake. cal purposes, a landlocked ocean; As sunrise illuminated the view Generally, the season peaks in with a surface area of 22,300 — a glistening carpet of blue water stages, starting in mid-September square miles, it’s the largest fresh- — it was hard not to think of the rush- in the Upper Peninsula and moving water lake in the United States and hour traffic we were missing around south. In western Michigan, your the fifth largest in the world. Chicago, along with too-narrow toll best bet is early to mid-October. You can invest the hours and booths, waits at the gas pump and With nearly 150 different species gasoline to drive around it, or you long hours at the wheel. The ferry of trees, western Michigan presents can cut across it aboard the Lake service even offers car rentals, for a vibrant fall portrait, so be sure to Express High Speed ferry — a two those who want to simply leave their pack a camera. and one half hour ride that con- rig ashore and hop across the lake for The intensity of color — espe- nects Milwaukee to Muskegon, a quick bit of exploration. cially deep crimson and flaming Michigan, allowing you to load The trip was as fast as promised. orange hues set against lush ever- up your trailer — if it meets size In a little over two hours, we were greens — was nothing short of

17 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 6 over two miles of Lake Michigan shoreline, 12 miles of marked hik- ing trails, and a lighted boat launch at Snug Harbor, where you can even rent fishing tackle. Winter visitors will also enjoy five miles of marked cross-country ski trails and the nearby Muskegon Winter Sports Complex for ice skating and an Olympic-qual- ity luge run. For information, call (231) 744-3480; for reservations at any Michigan state park, call (800) 44PARKS. Where to stay: If sand dunes make you feel the need for speed, you’ll want to be • D.H. Day Campground, Glen Arbor (231) 326-5134 sure to check out Silver Lake State • Kibby Creek Travel Park, Ludington (231) 843-3995 or (800) 574-3995 Park, off State Park Road. Just take • KOA of Muskegon, Muskegon (231) 766-3900 or the Hart or Shelby exits off U.S. 31 (800) 562-3902 and follow the signs. • Ludington State Park, Ludington (231) 843-8671 • Muskegon State Park, Muskegon (231) 744-3480 Sometimes compared to a des- • Silver Lake State Park, Mears (231) 873-2247 ert, Silver Lake is Michigan’s only • Silver Creek RV Resort, Silver Lake (231) 873-9200 coastal state park that allows off-road • Platte River Campground, Frankfort (231) 326-5134 vehicles (ORVs) — in this case, a sweeping 450-acre dune setting. Fall Color Travel Tips: The park uses a voucher sys- tem on weekends and holidays; • Don’t let the scenery distract you. Use designated pull-offs and scenic overlooks. during peak season officials will • Wet leaves and frost can create slippery roads. distribute over 2,000 vouchers a Consider your emergency braking procedures. If your day. Vouchers are available near vehicle has anti-lock brakes, brake firmly. For standard brakes, use a repeated squeeze-and-release method. the ORV Area entrance. Campsites • Autumn’s cool nights and warm days can create fog. come with hookups, toilet build- Use low-beam headlights during foggy weather. ings and showers. For information, • Keep an eye out for deer, especially on two-lane roads at dawn or dusk. Vehicle/deer accidents peak during the fall. call (231) 873-3083. (From the Muskegon County Convention & Visitors Bureau) Scenic Dunes, breathtaking. Little wonder that Case-in-point: Muskegon State Singing Sand locals insist Michigan boasts one of Park is where you’ll find a blend Browse travel literature and the best fall shows in the country. of thickly forested dunes and sandy you’ll find references to Lake The great news is that western shoreline. The terrain is hilly, Michigan’s “sugar sand” beaches. Michigan offers plenty of sites for wooded and serene, with over 240 That’s no exaggeration. The sand fall camping that take you into campsites complete with toilets and is soft and off-white, dubbed “sing- the heart of that woodland color, bath houses, available May through ing sands” because of the squeak- with convenient access to the Lake October. Sites cost around $24 a ing noise made when you stroll Michigan shoreline for late-sum- night with 30- and 50-amp service. across it — blame it on the high mer strolls. The park provides access to quartz content.

With 344 wooded campsites, scenic sand dunes, ponds and marshland, Ludington State Park is Michigan’s most heavily visited state park. (left, top to bottom) The Western Michigan shoreline offers memorable scenes at every turn, from crowded harbors to quaint lighthouses, inland lakes to rivers hosting fall salmon runs. (bottom right) Raymond and Judy Pfeifer, of Flint, Michigan, prefer to visit Ludington State Park in the fall when leaves begin to turn and crowds begin to thin. (Pg. 19) Towering sand dunes in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offer challenging hiking with splendid views for those who can reach the top.

18 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 6 One of the best places along the shoulder along the Big Sable River, wheel back here for their seventh even try to come up here; it’s too shoreline to take advantage of the just below the Hamlin Dam, for the consecutive visit. busy,” he confided. “Even now, perfect merger of sand, forest and right to haul out salmon and steel- “We love the quiet,” Raymond things will start filling up by Friday inland lakes is Ludington State Park, head — a popular spectator sport acknowledged. “And we have — wait and see.” an absolute gem of a facility for as well. With three great camp- seven miles to ride our bicycles, Park rangers confirm that the camping and recreating. To find it, grounds and many conveniences, with hiking all over the place. I love campsites fill quickly all year long, take U.S. Highway 10 west through it’s no mystery why this place ranks to go salmon fishing, too.” so reservations are a must. For more downtown Ludington toward as Michigan’s most heavily visited “Plus the people are nice — we information, call (231) 843-8671. Lakeshore Drive and head north. state park. Over 340 campsites offer like Ludington as a town,” Judy Situated between Hamlin Lake clean, spacious settings with electri- added. And fall is their favorite Beyond and Lake Michigan, Ludington cal hookups and bath houses. season. “It’s our October trip,” the Leaves State Park offers the best of all Everyone we met — from first Raymond said. Fall in western Michigan means worlds — shore access with scenic timers to repeat visitors — could “In the summertime, we don’t more than foliage. sand dunes and Big Sable Point only rave about Lighthouse, as well as inland ponds, the park. Take marshes and dense forest. The park Raymond and Judy CARRY IT. provides 18 miles of hiking trails Pfeifer. This fall, and a canoe trail, with boat rentals the Flint, Michigan available at Hamlin Lake. couple hauled their Anglers line up shoulder-to- 2004 Montana fifth- Photo courtesy of National Park Service.

CARRY IT AWAY.

206 Series

205B 205S

The fifth wheel hitch that’s The Gooseneck fifth wheel hitch there when you need it, not converter that gives you back when you don’t. your bed. When you’re not towing, the Free Ride 206 Series Hitch Assembly removes completely and easily, leaving your • Ball plate with 2-5/16 ball spins in and out. bed flat and clear. • 30,000 lbs. rating. • Rated to 18,000 pounds. • Requires only one 3” hole in truck bed. • No towing hardware in your bed when • Complete kit, nothing else to buy. you don’t need it. • No drilling into your truck frame. 205B Fifth Wheel Gooseneck Adapter Good Eats, Great Sites: • No need for a lockout device. Automatic latching coupler attaches to any • Side-to-side pivot of 10 degrees. fifth wheel. • Easy on/off design. • Converts fifth wheel hitch to gooseneck hitch. • Big Sable Point Lighthouse, Ludington State Park • Adjustable height & durable • Drop down style coupler allows full range of • Cherry Pit Market, south of Silver Lake powder coated finish. motion for easy hookup and disconnect. • Empire County Park & Beach, Empire • 30,000 lbs. rating with 15-1/4” overall height. 205S Fifth Wheel Gooseneck Adapter • The Dune Climb, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Same as the 205B with a 12” overall height. Lakeshore (shown above) • House of Flavors, Ludington. Call toll-free or visit us online • Joe’s Friendly Tavern, Empire. for the dealer nearest you. • Le Serving Spoon Gourmet Bakery and Bistro, Ludington ® 888-CE-HITCH • Muskegon Winter Sports Complex, Muskegon www.colibert.com State Park • Salmon fishing at Hamlin Dam, Ludington State Park Reader Inquiry #106 • Silver Lake Sand Dunes, Silver Lake 19 Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 6 You can’t drive far without spot- led before afternoon heat sets in, months, you’ll find nightly rang- Don’t ting u-pick orchards, farmers’ mar- but kids love it and great sunsets er-led campfire programs at the forget kets, cider mills and produce stands are your reward. Don’t forget your amphitheater In addition to a park • A camera to capture complete with baskets of famed water bottle. pass, visitors pay a $12 per night fee fall color Michigan apples and jugs of tart A few miles north, in Glen — a bargain for the forested seren- • Good hiking shoes cider. Boasting some 60 varieties Haven, you can check out the histo- ity and wave-swept shoreline. For and a water bottle for of apples, Michigan is the nation’s ry of the notorious Manitou Passage information, call (231) 326-5134. the Dune Climb • Bicycles for state No. 3 apple producer. This fruit at the Sleeping Bear Point Coast For more modern amenities, park trails is memorable. Guard Station Maritime Museum or try the Platte River Campground, • Sunglasses Go ahead. Treat yourself, you’ll grab a hearty lunch at Joe’s Friendly 10 miles north of Frankfort off never taste anything fresher. Tavern, in downtown Empire. Highway 22. Open year-round, Steering north, the fall color For a great family-oriented it offers pull-in and pull-through Route 66 intensifies with each passing mile. camping experience, be sure to visit RV sites with electrical hookups We eventually chose Highway 22 the D.H. Day Campground, a rus- and a sanitation station, as well as Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealers: for more scenic shoreline views and tic, wooded setting open for camp- pay showers. were pleased with the smooth ride. ing from April through November Questions? Contact the park All Seasons RV By the time the setting sun was on a first-come, first-served basis. at (231) 326-5134. Reservations 4701 Airline Rd. Muskegon, MI 49444 casting pastel shadows, we were The campground, which pro- may be made by calling (231) 739-5269 there — Sleeping Bear Dunes vides access to Lake Michigan, (800) 365-CAMP. National Lakeshore. The park features 88 sites with vault toi- For more information on Gillette’s Interstate RV covers a 35-mile area, including lets, water spigots and a sanitation Sleeping Bear Dunes National 7210 Saginaw Hwy. beaches, dunes, forests and North station. Generator use is restricted Lakeshore, call (231) 326-5134 or E. Lansing, MI 48823 (517) 339-8271 and South Manitou Island. It’s to the first loop. During summer check out www.nps.gov/slbe. [ name was reportedly inspired by a Hilltop RV Superstore Chippewa legend: 2905 N. Lincoln Rd. “Once, a forest fire on the west- Escanaba, MI 49829 ern shore of Lake Michigan drove a (906) 786-7986 mother bear and her two cubs into Krenek RV Super Center the lake. After miles of swimming, 6542 Ryno Rd. the cubs began to falter. When the Coloma, MI 49038 mother bear reached the Michigan (269) 468-7900 shore, she fell into a deep sleep. RV World of Michigan The exhausted cubs drowned, 7303 S. Division Ave. but the mother bear stayed atop Grand Rapids, MI 49548 a high bluff in hopes that they (616) 301-6920 would appear. Moved, the Great Ferry Services Spirit created two islands — North TerryTown Travel Center and South Manitou island — in Two major ferry services are available to whisk you 7145 Division Ave. S. and your trailer across Lake Michigan: Grand Rapids, MI 49548 the cubs’ memory. Winds buried (616) 455-5590 the sleeping mother bear atop the dunes where she is said to remain The Lake Express: Where: Milwaukee, Wis., and Muskegon, Mich. to this day, a patch of dark sand Vehicle Size: Maximum height of 8 feet 6 inches and width high upon a bluff.” up to 8 feet; trailers with maximum height of 8 feet 6 inches Wind-swept beaches, tower- and width up to 8 feet, up to 18 feet long. ing dunes and dense forest make Rates: Adult passenger fare (about $85 round trip) this landscape memorable. For a and a $100 fee for an 8-foot trailer, adding $5 per taste of the scenery, take the Pierce foot beyond that length. Stocking Scenic Drive, located off Time: About 2 1/2 hours Michigan Highway 109, which When: Late April through early November winds through 7.4 miles of dunes Website: www.lake-express.com and woods, with panoramic views and great fall color. Brochures The S.S. Badger: Where: Manitowoc, Wis., and Ludington, Mich. are available at the entrance for Vehicle Size: Accepts trailers and RVs, including self-guided tours. motorcoaches Consider stretching your legs Rates: Adult passenger fare (about $82 round trip at peak at the famed Sleeping Bear Dune season) and $4.95 per foot of your motorhome, each way. Climb — a 150-foot sand slope Time: About 4 hours with steep 80-degree inclines. The When: May through mid-October 20 climb is strenuous and best tack- Website: www.ssbadger.com Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 6