University of Nigeria

Research Publications

AGBO, Calista N.

Author

PG/M.ED/02/32779

Establishment Of Average Body Measurements

Title Title And Drafting Of Basic Block Patterns For Male Pre-School Children In Enugu State

Education Faculty Faculty

Vocational Education Department Department

Date Date March, 2006

Signature

ICSTABLISIIMENT OF AVEIUGE 130DY M ISAS\JltI3MENW AND DRAFTING OF BASIC I~LOCI< I'ATTKRNS FOR MALE l'I\E-SCIIOOL CII1LI)lITCN IN ENUGU STATE

A PROJECrT 1'1tICSSNTEI) TO I) WARTMNNT OF' VOCATIONAL TICACI I EIt # ICDUCATION UNIGERSITY OF' NIGEIIIA NSUIWA

IN PARTIAL FULPItMF?TOF THE REQUlREMENTS FOR TIIE DEG~~EOP MASTER OP EDUCATION (M.IZtl.) IN HOME ECONOMICS EDUCATION (CLOTIIING ANI) rrExmx)

AGBO CALTSTA NWAMAKA

PG/MEd/02/32779

MARCTI, 2006. APPROVAL PAGE

'HIS THESIS HAS BEEN APPROVED FOR THE DEPARTMRNT OF VOCATIONAL TEACHER EDUCATION (HOM~ECONOMICS) UNIVERSITY OF NIGERIA NSUKKA

----L-rd--,--,------. &s.) C.A. Igbo INTERNAL EXAMINER PEnvIson

DEAN ~~'CULT~~~~CATION PROF. B. G. N ORGU Certification

jbo Calista Nwamaka a postgraduate student of the Department of ~cational Teacher Education with registration number ;/M.Ed/02/32779 has satisfactorily completed the requirements for e Degree of Master of Education in Home Economics. The work nbodied in the project is original and has not been submitted in ~rtor in full for any other degree of this University or any other iiversity.

'& gbo Calista Nwamaka Dr. (Mrs.) C.A. Igbo . Student Supervisor DEDICATION

'This study is decticatecl to C'hiamaka, Cliinasa, Naanshut, and Chinwendu. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

The researcher thanks God who made it possible for this study to come to a completion. She has actually seen that with God everything is possible. A lot of people are instrumental to this success. The researcher owes them immeasurable gratitude. First among all is her project supervisor, Dr. (Mrs.) Chinyere A. Igbo, she is more like a mother to her. Only God Almighty will pay her for her kindness, patience, guidance and suggestiond throughout the tedious period of the study. She is grateful to Professor Elizabeth U. Anyakoha for her encouragement and motherly advice which in no doubt sustained her during the study. She appreciates her intellectual inputs in the appraisal and correction of this work. The researcher also thanks Dr. (Mrs) Betty Eboh, DR. R.O. Mama and Dr. Ede for their encouragement. She is very grateful to Mr. Obadiah Dyiltu, Mispah Gofwen, Beatrice Beshi, Ekwy Olua and Eliya Gofwen for their immense contribution to conclusion of this work. Finally, she thanks all the members of her family for their support and prayers. To her beloved husband, she prays God to pay him abundantly for his financial support, encouragement and his patience throughout the study.

CALISTA NWAMAKA AGBO PGIM.Ed1 021 32779.

Lsent~all3otly Measilrements, 'I'ecli~liqiiesand Eq~iipment of l'attel-u Draf'ting------ Dral'ting, Making and Symbol- - - -

Flat 13atterrl Method ------llrap~ngor Mockling Method ------

'I'lie Ihoclc - off Design Method- - - - - Grading Method or ~nodifyinghorn a set ol'l'atter~~s- -

C'o~npi~tcra~detl Design Metliod- - - - - l%ttern Ma~-l,ingand Syn1001s------

I3lwpn1ent Sor I5itel.n Development, I;itting and Problems - Toile Fitting (Bodice and Sleeve)- -

Pointel-s to Good Fit- - - - Methods oSC'lot hing C'onstr~tion- -

I

Flat Method - - - I

SIIIIII~I-yof' I ,itel-at we Review ('1 IAI'rI~I~~I<'1'1 II

MLI'I'I IOI>C>I,OGY- -

Plan ol'ilic Siudy- - -

Design ol'llle Study - -

Area of Stirtly- - - lbpi~lation or the Stdy- -

Sample - - - - Instrments of Ihta Collect~on Validatloll of the Insirments of Data Colleciion - -

I

Re-statenlent of the problem------75

Psoced111.cUsed------75

Ih~c~pal1:indings------76

Inlpl~catio~lol' the Study------76 vii

1,l ST 01; T,A 13 I> I3 S

I llody parts to be n~casuredSol- drafting block patterns and their

means.

.3 Mean body ~neasurementof2 years old in all the time zones.

3. Mcm body ~ne;rsur.cmentol'3 year old in all the three zones.

4. Mean body ~neasurernent01'4 year- old in all the three zones.

5. Mean body rneasu~.en~entol' 5 year old in all the three zones

0 . Average body nle:lsul-erllents for 2 year. old in Nsuklta, hlc~guand

Awgu rones

7 Average body measul-e~ne~~tsfor 3 year old in Nsukka, Enugu and

AW~LIzones

8. Average body nleasurenlents f'or 4 year old in Ns~rltka,Ikugu and

Awg~mles

0 . Average body measurelnents for 5 year old in Nsultlta, En~lguand

Awgu rones

10 Jdges Assessment oi'cloth~ngfit on male pre-school children. 1 Taking Measure~nentsof' Upper Rotly Parts 2 Method I'or Back 13od1ceBlock 3. Method for Fro111Bodice Block 4 Drafting Basic sleeve I3lock by Flat patlern 5 Drafling Basic Block for 'Trouser (Front) 0 I halilng Raslc I3locli lbr 'l'roi~ser(Back) 7 Master patterns for Hod~ce,Slceve and Trouser Individual botly nieasul-enie~itso1'1iiale 131-e-sclioolchildren in Nsuklca

Inclividual hody n~easlu-ementsof male pre-school children in I-hugu

7,one-5 years old.

Intlivicl~~albody ~iieasure~iie~itsof male pre-school cliilclren in Awgu

Znrie-5 years old.

# Iritli~~icltlalbody nie;is~~~-e~nc~ils01. male pre-school clii1tl~-enin Nsuklca

%,one-4years old.

I~ltlividi~albotly nieasuremcnts ol'male 131-e-sclwolc1iild1-en in Awgu

%ole4 years old

I ~itlivitlunlbody nleasutwlenls ol'male pve-school chiltlreu ill E~iugu

%one-4 years old

%,one3years old

I ~itlivitl~ralbody nieas~~remcnisof male pre-school chi lcll-en in Enugi~

I~dividualbody measurcnienls of~naleyre-school chiltlren in Awgu

Lone-3 yc;l~-sold

I~ltlivitlualbody nieasul-enieiirs or'niale pre-sclioof chiltlren ill Nsultka ABSTRACT

The purpose of this study was to establish average body ~neasurernentand to draft basic block patterns for inalc pre-school children in Enugu State. A sample of (300) three hundred pre-school children and (38) dress malters/ who are specialist in children \vears were purposively selected for the survey and the experimental study. Measi~rernentswere lalcen from 17 parts of children - 7 body using tailors lape. I he nlcan body measurcment oS the male pre-school children were established in 4 groups or sizes - sized 2-5. 'The obtained data were used to draft basic block patterns for bodies (shirt), sleeve (long) and trouser. The patterns were trued using calico Fdbric and correction were taken, to come out with the correct b1ocl;s. Assessment criteria charts were developed by the researcher and were usccl to judge 111c clothing fit on the models. Descriptive statistics was used in analyzing the data from the judge and it was found satisfactory. Recoimlendation were made, which include the use bf the block patterns for mass production of garment for pre-school male children. CHAPTER ONE INTRODUCTlON Background of the Study Clothing is anything that an individual puts on the body in order to cover, project or adorn it (1-101-11 and Gurel 8)Clothing includes dress, accessories, hats, hair-do, apparel, make-ups, handbags, shoes, among others (Anyakoha 1997). Garments such as gowns, shirts, skirts, blouses, trousers and coats that people generally p~~ton can be called clothes. Clothes are very important for the protection of persons from the hazards of the environment. According to Iloeje (1995) clothes are worn to protect the slcin Srorm rain, hot sun, cold weather, agents like bacteria, fungi, virus and numerous parasites and insects which are capable of producing skin lesions. She identilied properly designed protective clothing as the most effective means of reducing the danger from environmental hazards, and irritants. Besides protection, clothing act as means of personal communication by expressing the individuals unique personalities for modesty and for attraction, easy identification and for social status. Proper clothing commands respect to the wearer. Clothing is what differentiates man from other animals.

Clothes are worn by different categories of people - male and female, adults, adolescents, tenagers and children. At adulthood or cvcn at adolescent stage, the youths can make a choice of their clothing but children depends on

the choice made by their parents. Children are of different categories - the school children and the pre-school children. Pre-school, according to Click (1 990) is designated as the years before a child enter primary school and this period includcs children of two to five years. Pre-school in educational terms is generally taken as a period in a child's life when he is considered too young to attend for~nalschool and it covers the chronological age of two to live years (Ogbuji 2002). - The male pre-school children are referred to as inale cllildrcn that are between two to five years of age . Scli~~sterand Ashburn (1 980) slated that pre- school children - both female and male encom~~asscsthc pcriod from 16 through 30 months of their delivery. They noted that many signillcant changes do occur during this period, the most significant change being that the horizontal infant becomes a vertical person equipped with more refined skills. They also observed that the alterations in the prc-school children's body proportions create striking cha~~gesin appearance. In the beginning they

observed that the male pre-school child has a top - heavy appearance, accentuated by a relatively long trunk and perhaps a bulky diaper that causes his buttocks to appear to be closer to the iloor than they really arc. As the child begins his second year, his legs begins to grow much lister than the,trunk (Santrock 200 1). These changes coupled with his erect posture, makes the child resemble in some way a miniature adult. Lowery (1978) observed that the abdominal inusculature is not as well developed in the prc-school childrcn of lwo years as it is in the pre-school children of about four years. This, hc said, contributes to a pot belly appearance. ?Ihis 7 appearance disappears at the dcvclopment of convex lumbar curve. I-Ie observed again that the gender dil'li.l.cnccs in height during this time are minimal, although males arc generally slightly taller than females of the same age. Pre-school children can be foiund both in rural and in ~~rbanareas. Obetta (2001) observed that pre-school children in the urban area has more

I opportunity to be cared for more than their counterparts in the rural areas. Though pre-school children in the rural areas have more wight because of the way they are being fed, the children in the urban area arc always a little bit taller in height (Santrock, 2001). This is very true since some pre-school children come from low socio-economic status. This could create a clear difference in their choice of clothing, maintenance of clothing and the standard of clothing for male pre-school children depending on the class or socio- economic status of their parents. 1'1-c-school children at this agc, do involve themselves in a lot of activities as they play around. 'l'his help their accumulated adipose tissue to decline greatly. These changes of developmental stages of pre-school children should not be ignored while making choice of clothing for them. At this period of their age, they can not help themselves in their clothing choice. They need help from more matured people that take care of them. Therefore, pre-school children dress according to the taste of their parents, guardians or nannies. Faux and Davies (1988) affirmed that the credit of good dressing of children goes to their parents. They emphasized on the need for parents to have proper knowledge of clothing so as to help them in proper decision malting as it affects the choice to be made.

Hefore Nigerian government banned importation of ready - to wear

clothes, second - hand garments- "~kirika"and commercial patterns in 1986, parents were not finding it difficult purchasing garments for their pre-school children. The main objective of this ban is economic self reliance. This, has now, lead Nigerians to make use of local garment manufacturing companies in the provision of garments. These local manufacturing companies make use or free lmnd cutting techniques. This method of clothing construction is time cons~~~ningas the tailors or the seamstresses will measure an individual, and sew. They do not make use of patterns. With this free hand cutting method, it is difficult to meet with the demand for large scale production of clothing for the populace (Iloeje 1995). There is also the tendency of not making accurate gannents for proper fit using free-hand cutting method. Moreover co~ninercial patterns which make for professional profits of garments are not available for use by the garment malting industries because they have been listed among goods which have been prohibited for importation into the country in the bid to save foreign exchange. These comn~ercial patterns which were also banned were developed li-om standardized body measurements of Europeans not Nigerians. Resides, they are very expensive. Kaka (1990) observed that garments made from such patterns do not fit perfectly because of the apparent differences in body structure and postural alignments of Africans which differ from those of the Europeans. These problems are magnilied where children's garments are concerned (Iloeje 1995). Rapid growth in pre-school children's physical development also contribute to their improper clothing habit. These problems can greatly be reduced by the use of standardized garment patterns. Patterns are basic necessities to clothing manufacturers in the mass production and construction of perfectly fitted garments (Iloeje 1995). Pattern is a piece of paper drafted and cut to size and shape, used for cutting out fabric pieces for sewing out dresses, (Igbo and lloeje 2003). Igbo and Iloeje (2003) filrther emphasized that pattern is to the dress maker what a blue print is to the

architect. 111 particular, patterns are quite invaluable for large scale produhion. Patterns or slopes from which all the designs are created can be developed ~hrouglidraping or they can be drafted from instructions (Zamltoff and Price 1990). Patterns can also be developed on the computer (Igbo an Iloeje 2003). Drafting patterns on the computer is known as patterns generation systems (PGS) (Aldrich 1999). Pattern drafting whether performed manually or with the computer Aided Design (CAD) system, is the most important technical process in the prodwtion of clothing (Cooldin 1997, Igbo and Iloeje 2003, and Anyakoha and Iloeje 2003). Pattern making is a slcilled trade and it requires taking body measurements of a wide range of people. Talcing body measurement is the act or process of measuring some parts ofthe body that are necessary for the production of the basic block patterns (Ossai 2003). Body measurements are also very useful in determining the size an individual belongs. 13ecause of the varying sizes in children, patterns are designed to tit diA'ercnt groups of sizes in height and contour. llpon this background it became pertinent to undertake this st~rdyin order to provide data for use in developing block patterns for Nigerian male pre-school children. This can however, not be achieved without anthropometrical data which can be obtained by measurement. As a first step towal-ds developing patterns it becomes necessary that average body measurement be established. Statement of the Problem Using pattern in garment production is very important as it gives the sewer self contidence in cutting out fabrics. Pattern usage is the only way to achieving good fit in garments. In Enugu State dress inalters are still using 1.1-ee-hand to sketch directly on fabric and then cut. Free-hand cutting wastes fabrics and sometime the structural design of the fabric is distorted, (Altubue 2004). According to Iloeje (1995), free-hand method of garment construction inay spoil the garment entirely, thereby wasting the fabric. Most often garinents produced with free-hand method do not fit the wearer, this inay create problem between the and the clients. At times the owner of the fabric inay demand for a replacement. This is most common in children's wear. Constructing childrens' garment is very difficult but very easy with pattern. In Enugu State there are no ready-to-use patterns for male pre-school children. This study is therefore undertaken in order to provide data for use in developing basic block patterns for Nigerian male pre-school children. The pattern that will be produced after this study will be able to fit male children within the pre-school range in Nigeria and it could be used by garment inanufidcturers for large scale production of garments for all Nigerian male pre- school children.

Purpose of the Study The main purpose of this study is to establish average body measurements and to draft basic block patterns for male pre-school children in Enugu State. Specifically the study involved: (1) Taking the body measurement of male pre-school children in Enugu State. (2) Establishing average body measurements for male pre-school children in Enugu State. (3) Drafting standard basic block patterns for male pre-school children in Enugu State.

Significance of the Study The findings of the study, if utilized will be beneficial to the following individuals and groups in various ways: students offering clothing in schools, garment designers, parents, clothing construction teachers, home economics teachers, curriculum planners in ministry of education, policy makers and the entire nation. The information that will be generated from this study will be of,benefit to students offering clothing construction in schools and colleges. They could use the standardized body measurement that will be obtained from this study to draft patterns, instead of taking fresh body measurements. The basic block patterns that will be produced in this study could be used by the students too. They can use it to do their other aIterations and pattern adaptation. Teachers, teaching clothing and will benefit very well from this study. They can use the standardized body measurements and the basic block patterns from this study to teach their students. This will make work very easy and faster for them. The study will provide baseline data for use in commercial pattern production. And so, it will be relevant to large - scale clothing manufacturing. Garment designers will equally benefit from this study. When they make use of the findings of this study, they will find their job very easy and faster. 'I'heir economy will be improved upon change because their rate of turnover will be very high. It will also help to save their time and energy. Suggestions from the findings that will be generated from this study are bound to be usehl to policy makers. It will help the Home Economics Curriculum Planners to allocated or create more time to practicals in clothing construction. If this study finds favour with the Nigerian Educational Research and Development Council (NER-DC), it should be recoinmended for use i.n schools and colleges that offer clothing construction course. Parents will find this study significant in the area of inaking proper choice for their children. It will help parents to identifping those styles that will fit their male pre-school children most, considering their body contour and figures. The findings of this study if utilized properly will help our nation Nigeria to grow econoinically as it will greatly check wastage in dress making in Enugu State. * Research Questions (I What parts of the body should measurement be taken to provide data for basic block patterns.

(2) What are the average measurements of male pre-school children in Enugu State?

(3) How could a standardized basic block pattern for male pre-school children of Enugu State be developed?

Hypothesis While carrying out the study the hypothesis stated below was tested. There is no signiiicant differences in the mean body measurements for school children in urban and rural areas at 0.05 level of significance.

Scope of the Study

The st~~dywas limited to male pre-school Children between ages 2 - 5 years. The subjects of study were Nigerians only and was drawn from 3 out of 6 educational zones in Enugu State of Nigeria. Only those 6ody measureinents required for drafting the bodice- front' and back pattern, sleeve pattern and trouser pattern were taken. CHAPTER TWO LITERATURE REVIEW The related literature is organized under the following sub-headings: Theories of pattern. I're-school children and their characteristics

Pre-school children clothing - provision and importance Pre-school children's body size variations and patterns. Essential body measurement techniques and equipment for pattern drafiing .

Origin of pattern drafting and pattern marking and symbols b Equipment for pattern development, fitting and problems Methods of clothing const~uction Review of related literature Summary of literature review.

Theories of pattern 7- Pattern is a piece of paper drafted and cut to size and shape, used for cutting out fabric pieces for sewing out dresses (Igbo and IIoeje2003). Pattern drafiing originated in United States of America in 1863 by Ebenezer Butterick (Nwaokolo 1989). Originally, his idea for a garment is ~tsuallysketched, after the tkst rough sketch has been prepared the designer begins to shape the pattern pieces which makes the garments, the pieces are then drawn to actual size on paper and cut out on a rough material-muslins. The muslin pieces are sewn together and fitted on a model (Oltoye 1997). Pattern malting is being guided by a lot of theories with regards to its importance. Those importance include-high quality production, checking of figure problems, saves time, Economical, encourages creativity, self confidence and easy alterations, (Liddell 198 1). Quality Theory. High quality production of garments is one of the importance of pattern drahing. According to Akubue (2004), pattern helps the dressmaker to construct garments in proper lines and fit-following the fabric printing design. Aldrich (1999) and Rydell (1972) observed that pattern helps to proportion, rhythm and balance of design printed on the fabric, thereby helping to produce high quality garments as the pattern will help to accommodate these prjnciples of design accordingly.

Time-Savin~Theory Liddell (1981) emphasized on time saving as on of the greatest ilnportailce of pattern usage. The use of pattern in dressmaking is a great tool which enables the dressmaker to finish his or her work on time, Akubue (2004). This theory is of great importance as with pattern, the garments manufacturer do not need to stress hildherself so much in sketching on fabric each time he/she wants to sew, instead, he/she will use the pattern to lay on several layers of fabric and cut at a time. This will help to sew so many garments within the shortest time. This will as well check energy wastage. According to Tloeje (1995), using pattern in garment production will help o~lrlocal garment ~nanufact~~rersto meet up with the demand of' her populace.

Economy Theory. Pattern usage checks wastage of fabric during cutting and sewing, (Cooltlin 1992). Stringer (1993) noted that proper knowledge of pattern usage is highly economical in garment production. According to her, pattern used for one sex could be also used for the opposite sex with little modifications or alterations especially in children. Pattern is very important as it checks wastage of fabric no matter how little. Bray (1994) observed that children's garments are the most difficult set of garments in terms of production but can consume pieces of a fabric which could have been wasted-for its decorations. Creativity Theory. Pattern usage also encourage creativity and satisfaction to dressmakers (Akubue 2004). Pattern enables home sewer to make a duplicate of prol'essional garment and can be used in mass production by beginning companies, (Igbo 2003). With pattern, the dressmaker can creatively manipulate designs, grains and lines in fabrics to produce a fitting garment. Confidence Theory. Pattern gives the dressmaker self confidence while sewing garments. Bray and Haggai- (1999) noted that a well drafied pattern that is accurately ~~tilizedgives the dressmaker job satisfaction and self confidence. Patkrns are in sizes and this also gives the dressmaker the confidence in using the patterns in sewing perfect fits (Aldrich 1999). kure-check Theory IJsing pattern in garment construction helps to check individ~~alswith figure problems. According to Tootal (1984), figure problems includes-large bust, thick waist, hollow back, narrow chest, narrow shoulder, round shoulder, square shoulder, large stomach and plump upper arm. Tootal (1984) further stated that a competent dressmaker can make fitting dresses for people with figure problems when good patterns are drafted in accordance with the individual figure. Aniltweze (2003) observed that most ofien people with figure problems find it very difficult obtaining garments that will fit them fiom the ready-to-wear shops. This, she said, is because of the fact that figure problems are of types, but a well constructed partern which will take care of such a problem, will be highly appreciated by such an individual. l'herefore, pattern helps the sewer to study the figure and discover the individual's figure problems. -Alteration Theory. Patterns are very important in garment constcution due to its value of alteration,(Aldricl~ 1999). Patterns can be altered in different ways while constructing garments. Most often, individuals who wants unique designs achieve it with pattern alterations. Characteristics of Pre-School Children - Growth and Development There is a set of principles that characterizes the pattern and process of growth and development in pre-school children. These principles or characteristics describe typical development as a predictable and orderly process; that is, we can predict how most children will develop and that they will develop at the same rate and at about the same time as other children. Although there are individual differences in children's personalities, activity levt:ls, and timing of development milestone, such as ages and stages, the principles and characteristics of development are ~iniversalpatterns. (Novella 200 1 ). An understanding of the principles of development helps us to plan appropriate activities and stimulating and enriching experiences for children, and provides a basis for understanding how to encourage and support young children's learning. Aldrich (1999) stated that the speed at which a child grows decreases steadily from birth onwards until puberty when the rate of growth accelerates (this acceleration is known as the growth spurt). Until the growth spurt occurs there appears to be little difference between boys and girls in the speed at which they grow. The decrease in the rate of growth varies from approximately 8cm per year at three years to 5c1n per year at ten years. She observed that manufacturers of children garments have decided to accept a 6cm height interval as a base for a coding scheme, as this approximates to the average growth per year over this period. However, she also noted that the range of height in children in any particular age group is larger than the amount of growth that occurs in any one year, therefore a child's age is only a very crude guide or designation of hislher expected stature. She observed that it is better to link other body measurements to height rather than age, and one must recognize that age on clothing labels is only a secondary description. Children of the same height can have variable arm and leg i-neasurements and these differences become more apparent as the limb length increases. (Aldrich 1999). She also observed that inost apparent characteristics of a small child's shape is the size of its head: by the age of three the child's head has almost completed its growth. A small child has a head one fifth of its height while the adult's head is only one eighth. The head size of a child must be taken into account when designing openings on the bodice for the head to pass through. (Aldrich 1999). From the age of two, the average child loses fat until about the age of eight. This "sliming down" process is very apparent and it is generally spoken of in term of the child "loosing his baby fat". Novella (200 I), and Aldrich (1 999) observed that boys are often a little thinner than girls at this stage, but as the differences in measurements are small, a colnmon size chart can be used. According to them, the inost significant difference occurs on the hip measurement and some manufacturers of boys wear take account of this. Pre-school children have very little waist shaping and their stance gives thein a hollow back and protruding stomach. This feature decreases as the child grows and loses fat. (Novella 2001). Biophysically, pre-school children are within the age range of 1 year to 6 years. At this stage the biophysical growth is relatively slow as compared to other periods of the individual's life span Ashburn (1980). I-lowever, many significant changes do occur during this stage. According to Dixon and Lerner (1999) there are alterations in the child's body proportions and these create changes in appearance. They noticed that male children at their second year begins to grow legs much more faster than their trunk. The change coupled with the child's erect posture, makes the child resemble in some ways a miniature adult. Santrock (2001) observed that as the child learns to walk, a compensating convex lumbar curve (in the small of his back) begins to develop. From the child's first birthday to his sixth, his height progresses from an average of 30 inches to about 46 inches. By age 4, the preschooler has doubled the birth length. During this time gender differences in height are minimal, although males are generally slightly taller than females of the same age (Dixon and Lerner 1999). After the child's second birthday, the rate of weight gain averages about 5 pounds yearly until the 91h or 10"' birthday (Ashburn 1980). The accumulation of adipose tissue burn down greatly during these years, it begins to increase again at about 6 years. At this period the child engages in more activities. It explores the en\lironment. This is because the muscle grows faster than bone. Muscle fibres increases in size and strength as they are put to more use (Paus, Zijoenbos, Worsley, Collins, Bluinenthal, Giedd, Rapoport and Evans 1999). Nwoltolo (1989) observed that pre-school children at five years is about live times his birth weight. During this period, their motor skills multiply and improve. 'They en-joy playing ball. They can walk and run long distances. They also enjoy ridding bicycles. These facts of physique help parents in selecting clothing that will fit them comfortably.

Pre-school Children's Clothing - Provision and Importance Clothing has always been important to children because it meets one or their pri~naryneeds. According to Anyaltoha and lloeje (2003) and Igbo and lloqje (2003), clothing is worn as a result of modesty, protection, status, identification and adornment. Because it is easily seen, clothing may express one's feelings and moods. Suitable clothes contribute much to a child's physical and emotional development and increases hislher self confidence Spillane (1992). Suitable clothes may influence a child's mental health by encouraging himlher to accept responsibility to co-operate with adult and peers. Good fit is a desirable feature in both children's and adult's clothes (MsuCare 2002). Poor fit is the most common reason why they do not wear some of their clothes and they feel very uncomfortable when forced to wear such poor fitting clothes (Iloeje 1995). Children's clothing should also provide for growth as growth is rapid in children at this stage in thcir physical development (Obetta 200 1 ). Msucare (2002) condems the practice that children's clothing should be oversized while new so that children may grow into them. This is because the garment may be worn out long belbre the owner has caught up with it in size and meanwhile the nicest and prettiest time of the garment life is wasted. Iloeje (1995) and M~iscare(2002) identified some features that are desirable in children's clothing and which leads to their greatest satislkction to include comfort, safety, self-help featpres, growth allowance and of care. Tl'houghchildren look very lovely in cute dresses, they said, it is still iipportant to consider health and comfort features in addition when choosing their clothing. 'Through clothing, different human needs are satisfied both adult and children. Iloeje (1995) and Muscare (2002) identified clothing as an important area of personal satisfaction and a means of social identification. According to Spillane (1 988), children need clothes to protect them from i,he weather, to male them more attractive and acceptable to society as well as helping to identify them with their peers. Clothes also promote a feeling of security, ease, self confidence and express personality. Faux (1988) on the physiological, social and psychological needs of clothing the family observed that meeting the above needs help to develop self confidence and feeling of security at any age. IIurlocl< (1 978) also observed different children's needs that are satisfied through clothing. For instance, clothes give children impression of growing up and help them call attention to themselves. Clothing also help children to identify thelnselves as individuals (Iloeje 1995). Further more, children who have physical defects tend to use clothes to camouflage their physical disabilities (Rouse 8).It is therefore necessary to provide adequate clothes for the younger people since they affect their development and happiness (Priest and Pullen 1990). Pre-school children's body size variation and patterns Not nluch researches has been conducted on Nigerian pre-school children's ineasurement for developing garment patterns. Anthropometrics measurements for assessing the nutritional status of children are among the few works done on children's measprements in Nigeria and they provide the most valid assessment of physical growth and body composition (Iloeje 1995). These antl~ropornetrics indices include height measurements, weight measurements, head circumference, arm circumference, chest circumference and triceps skin fold measurements. Growth is rapid in children and their growth patterns have been observed to differ from one locality to another. Nnanyelugo and Ngwu (1985) in their study to find out the differences in the growth pattern of children in five geographical subdivisions of old Anarnbra State, noted that zonal variable appear to exert more significance on height, weight and triceps estimates of children than those of arm or chest and head ratios. Tanner ( 1976) observed that children of like age have entirely different proportions and dimensions. The variations are due to several factors which i~~cludehereditary, socio-economic status which encompasses nutrition, health, living standards, family surroundings, in fact, all the extrinsic, environment of the child and time (Davidson, Passmore, Brook, and Trustwell, 1986). Iloeje (1995) observed that family size affects children's body size and stated that the more mouths to feed and more children to bother about, thc less well the feeding and the general care of the children. The variations in body sizes among people of the world have been identified to be very significant. In a study carried out by Ashburn (1980), he Sound out that the differences between the chineese children and those of African and European origin amounted to about seven centimetres. Ashburn I (1980) fiom his study was of the opinion that the differences were genetic in origin. His study also showed that children of yellow skin were markedly shorter and lighter than white and black children. At times where there is abnormal genetic make up, the stature and shape of the individual may bi affected. According to Davis (1986), genetic abnormalities may cause markec stunting, disproportionate growth and development. Such children, accordin! to I.yon, Preece and Grant (1985) grow at a slightly slower than average rat4 tl1rough out child hood and will fail to experience puberty growth spurt Therefore, the inherited growth potential of a child determines the pattern o body build particularly under ideal environmental conditions. Nutrition is one of the major environmental factors that affects a child': growth and development (Iloeje 1995). Water low (1986) and Maxiorel (1986) reported that nutritional influence may modify the effect eyerted b) genetic control. Nutritionists in countries where children have different bod) sizes, have found it difficult to establish appropriate genetic growth referenct in order to define the environmental factors (Iloeje 1995). However, she addec that if environmental conditions are favourable and able to supply all tht necessary nutrients, the child will be able to express all its genetic potentialities. Disturbances of growth and maturation have been reportec among malnourished children. Graham and Adgianzan (1 972) and Richards01 (1975) reported that growth retardation could be a permanent feature o malnutrition if the general condition of living were not improved on. Socio-economic levels within an area have been shown by researchers t, add to the differences in stature of today's children. According to Bhattachay (I986), socio-economic factors include living conditions, econoinic level! social status, hygiene and educational level. He reported the noticeabl changes in body size in industrialized countries with respect to hygiene leve rate of infection and food consumption. In economically disadvantaged are. poverty and malnutrition were associated as factors that influence body size. I a survey by 'Tanner (1976), young children in a superior socio-econorn environment were found to be taller than children of comparable age who li~ in less advantaged area. Jones (1974) assessed the growth pattern of tv jil.O~oS01. Nigerian Yoruha childrpn elite 2nd nnnr f~rn;l;orr>ncl~lto -L,-..... that the children of the elite were larger in size than children from poor families. It is advisable therefore that pre-school children's patterns should not be sized according to age, height or weight but on the body measurements obtained especially waist and chest measurements (Iloeje 1995). Essential body measurements, techniques and equipment for pattern drafting Patterns by different companies are in standard sizes according to body meas~~reinentsand figure type. Johnson and Foster (1 990) observed that figure types vary according to height, back waist, length and body build. Some of these figure types are juniors, petites, misses, teen boys and men. They also observed that figure type may change as body matures. A good knowledge of body measurements is very vital for drafiing basic garment patterns and for constructing garments that will fit perfectly (Kalta 1990; Cock 1981; lgbo and Iloeje 2003, Anyaltoha and Iloeje 2003) According to Reader's Digest (1987), and Osai (2003), the first step in patterr drafiing is to take a list of measurements and decide on which pattern size an( type. The body parts that have been considered very essential and needed fo pattern drafting and clothing construction are: bust, waist and hip (Iloejl 1995). Other measurements needed in addition are: shoulder length, shoulde width, li-ont waist length, back waist length among others Cock 1981; Osz (2003); lgbo and Iloeje (2003); and Anyakoha and Iloeje (2003) emphasize the need to take accurate measurements. They suggested that the tape with a equal ainount of tension should be placed on the appropriate part. This because inaccurate measurement may cause an unnecessary amount of fittin and recutting after the garment is tacked together. In addition, landmarks fc measurement on the soft fleshy body must be satisfactorily located. T1 essential body measurements are taken over foundation garments (Igbo ar Iloeje 2003). 'I'uit (1975) and Osai (2003) also noted that measurements mi he taken over a dress if it is close fitting. They also suggested the need for general observation of the figure before taking measurements so as to note ar variations from normal posture. Such variations could be sloppy shoulders, bent back among others. Furthennore, measurements should be taken sequentially to avoid missing any body part. While taking measurements, Stringer (1 993) suggested that the usual underwears and shoes should be worn. The person being measured should stand naturally and look straight ahead. She further stated that circumference ineasureinents should be taken firmly but not tightly. For bust and hip it is advisable to measure up to the nearest even centimetre (ie 30,32, 34,36) (Iloeje 1995, Osai 2003, lgbo and lloeje 2003). Patterns can either be made flat or draped on a model. In mgking flat patterns, the designer follows a set of instructions to draft a set of five basic patterns, which include - the bodice front, the bodice back, the Sront trouser, the back trouser and the sleeve. Dress master pattern on the other hand has three basic patterns: the front dress, the back dress and the sleeve. The basic pattern, sometimes called the foundation pattern, master pattern or block pattern and in the trade 'slopes' is a perfectly plain pattern that has been constructed to fit the individual. Each pattern piece may have at least one basic to control the material required to cover a body buldge (Iloeje 1995). She also noted that seams, hei11s or extrr fi~llnessare not required in a basic pattern but are added when cutting thc garment. Basic patterns should be fitted in every detail before styling feature: are developed. IF this is done, subsequent adjustments will be slight i necessary to suit the type of fabric used. The art of pattern drafting has become a skilled craft where precision i~ measuring and construction is needed. Equipment for measuring shoulf include the lbllowing: a measurement chart, metric , a length c string about one metre long (Igbq and Iloeje 2003 and Osai 2003). Othe~ include two rulers, 30cn1 and one meter in length, a set square (medium t large), pair of for cutting paper, and paste. Also weights f( holding down the paper while working, eg flat stones. For accuracy in draftir Stringer (1 993) made the following recommendations: Tape measures ar rulers must agree. Rulers must be straighl, set-squares must have h true 91 angle. Pencils should give a bold line and be suitable for drawing curves. large flat surface for working on is required. Large sheets of plain paper

cheap white newsprint is suitable. H - pencils are preferable for patte

malting and B - pencils for sketching and practicing curved lines. Colour pencils can be used where a contrast is needed. Straight lines should be dra~ with a ruler and right-angles with a set-square while curved lines should smooth. Pattern draft in^ , marking. aqd symbol # Pattern is a piece of paper drafted and cut to size and shape, used cutting out fabric pieces for sewing out dresses (Igbo and Iloe-je 200 Drafting is an engineering approach to producing patterns, using a set measurements obtained from a figure while following a set of instruction (Ig and Iloeje 2003, and (Carr and Pomeroy 1992). Pattern drafting originated in lJnited States of America in 1863 Ebenezer 13uttericlt (Nwoltolo 1989). Originally, his idea for a garmeni usually sketched, after the first rough sketch has been prepared the desig begins to shape the pattern pieces which makes the garments, the pieces

then drawn to actual sizes on paper and cut out on a rough material - musl The inuslin pieces are sewn together and fitted on a model. But today method or development has been modified by manufacturers of commer patterns which the garment designers information are valuably assisting in production of patterns (Okoye 1997). According to Mackorhill (2004) drafting a pattern involves many stl I'he most important step, she said is taking the measurement. She sugge that one should always be sure that before taking any measurement one ha place a tape or string around the waist in an even line. To find the nat waist, she supported that the subject should bend sideways. To her the v line is at the fold, so be sure to remove wallets, belts, bulky sweaters am 20 others. The descriptions below wil I help one take the right measurements. 'I'hey include: The length of front, wh ,ich should be talten from the bottom of the hollow of neck to the waist. Centre of shoulder to waist (front), should be taken from the center point of the side measurement of the shoulder diagonally over the chestlbust to the center of the waist. Chest or bust front, should be taken across chest, mually 2" below hollow of neck to creases in arms. This measure gives a

point for the front curve ofthe armhole. # Shoulder width front & back, should be taken from shoulder bone to shoulder bone front or back. Underarm to underarm, should be taken across fullest part of bust. Especially necessary for full- chested figures. Shoulder width, should be a side measure taken from base of neck to bone of shoulder. Waist measure, which should be taken around the waist, a comfortable snug measure. Underarm to waist, should be talten from the lower edge of the armhole or hollow of the arm, to the waist. This measure averages about one-half the length of back Length of back, should be taken from bone in back of neck to the waist. Centre of shoulder to waist (back), which should be talten fioin the center point of the side measure of the shoulder to the center back at waist. Total bust measure, should be taken (standing behind the figure) around the fullest part of the bust, the more common measure, about one-half way between bone in back of neck, and the waist, keeping the tape straight across the back. 12. Centre of shoulder to tip of bust, should be taken from the center point of the side measure of the shoulder to the Fullest part of the bust. Once you have the accurate measurements of yoor subject, you may now begin to draft pattern that will be customized to that individuals ligure (Mackorkhill 2004)

Pattern draftings are of major types. They are - flat pattern, grading

method, modeling draping or knock - off - design method and computer aided design (Utult 1991 ). Flat Pattern Method + Flat pattcrn method is a process of obtaining patterns by working from a set of measurements of a figure, adhering to a set of instructions and drawing to shape on paper or cardboard (Igbo and Iloeje 2003). There are two stages in this pattern drafting method - malting a set of five basic patterns, known as block patterns or foundation patterns or blue print or ~nasterplan. And the adaptation of the block to style required. Macltorhill (2004) opined that flat pattern work starts with a co~nrnercial basic pattern that has previously been altered to fit the individual. The flat pattern work consists of changing this altered basic pattern to make a pattern L'or a chosen design. The work is done in paper on a flat surface.

Shaw (2000) suggested that flat - pattern is a good method of drafting pattern for beginners because the pattern already has an established shape and the proper amount of ease, so, the beginner does rlot need to be responsible for these factors. She further stressed that it will be most helpful if the pattern is made up in muslin or other inexpensive fabric so that the learner can get the effect of the design he/she is creating. Pattern cutting translates the proportions of the designers working sketch into a series of pattern components, which in a finished garment will fit the figure for which the prototype pattern is designed (Carr and Pomeroy 1 W2). Mackorhill (2004) observed that knowledge of flat - pattern techniques will contribute to a better understanding of pattern alteration. Knowledge of

flat - pattern has so many advantages to the users. According to I-lollen (1972)

and 'Travis (2000) advantages of flat - pattern method includes the following: The ability to design patterns to fit into economical fabric layouts, use more effectively re-style old patterns and out - of - date clothing, determine causes of mistakes and how to correct them, plan new procedures, and organize work efficiently. lgbo and lloeje (2003) enumerated the following as advantages of flat

pattern method. These advantages include - that flat pattern method is ~heaper and inexpensive when compared to the modeling method. The blocks provide a permanent record of correct fit. Dart movements, additional seams, fullness 1 etc are planned on them. It is faster than any other method of pattern drafting. Fresh patterns can be cut out from the blocks. It shows that all styles are related, no matter how different they may appear, since they are all developed fro111 the same basic block. Draping or modeling method Modeling is a method of making patterns, using the art of inanipulating a cheap cdbric, such as calico or inuslin cloth, on a dress stand to create a style (Igbo and Iloeje 2003). Draping is an artistic approach in which the person makes a pattern by fitting a large rectangle of women cloth around the body so that the folds in the fabric produce the dress pattern according to the contours of the body (Anikweze 2003). This method of pattern making has the

following advantages - it can be very satisfying to a dress maker with creative ability. It is the only suitable method for draped styles, as it enables the exact position and amount of fullness to be controlled (Igbo and Iloeje 2003). Some techniques are involved which should be carefully handled to enable onepake a perfect pattern horn modeling. They include to have a good practical knowledge of dress construction. Fully understand the grain of the fabric. Have a sense of proportion and line, and a keen sense of accuracy. Make the selvedge grain of the fabric run from to . Use the selvedge if it has a good clean edge, but if not, fold fabric on the grain and press to obtain a creased line (Igbo and Iloeje 2003). Vulker and Cooper (1987) observed that draping require little technical skill, as no pattern or sewing were required. The knock - off design method

This method involves the buying of the best - selling cloth items of companies, ripping off the seams and copying or knocking off the design (Igbo and Iloeje 2003). This technique is legal because there is no copyright on clothing designs. Knock-off design method is a way to duplicate the fit as well as the look of a garment that is in vogue or best selling by other cginpanies. According to Igbo and Iloeje (2003) some advantages of knock-off design

pattern includes .- it helps to duplicate fit as well as look of the garment. It can be easily used by some home sewers to make professional looking garments. It can also be used by same home sewers to provide a new garment that looks like a beloved old garment that has worn out. It is used by small companies in mass production. And it is accurate and gives good fit. **q*!W "'' Gradinp method or modifying from a set of patterns cw),@Sn' 1 .*w' . .. This is the process of obtaining new patterns from B pattern already at hand (Igbo and Iloeje 2003). It involves alteration of existing pattern to produce another pattern (Faux and Davies 1988). According to Igbo and Iloeje, (2003) grading involves decreasing the pattern to make it smaller or increasing the pattern to make if larger. They flirther observed that patterns can be

modified and graded using the slasli - and - spread techniques or slash - and overlap technique for increasing and decreasing in sizes respectively -Computer-aided desipn method This is an art of using computer to make a pattern piece. In this process, shapes of cardboard pattern pieces are given x and y, coordinates by a digitizer and entered into a computer, displayed on a monitor to grade according to size (Igbo and Iloeje 2003). Carr and Pomeroy ( 1992) observed that this method of' pattern making is much harder to achieve, unless one has proper knowledge of computer. Igbo and Iloeje (2003) also stated that the designer must be coinputer literate otherwise helshe will find it difficult to achieve a meaningful thing through this method, computer aided design has a much bigger role in pattern adaptation and grading (Car and Pomeroy 1992).

Pattern Marking and Symbols Pattern marltings are the lines, dots and other symbols printed on a pattern to provide information (Kindersley, 1996). Patterns have different types of markings and symbols. It gives directives on how a dress maker will use the patterns in malting a garment. # According to Anyaltoha (1997), pattern markings and symbols are as follows: MarkingISymbols Diagrams These edges must be placed ,to the fold of the material The cutting line. This line must be placed straight by a .

The line or fitting line is usually %"

- ( 1 Scm) from edge.

These show the position of a dart.

In pointing and tacking of the garment, these notches rnust match similar marking on another part of the garment. 1- 1 Pattern markings according to Kindersley (1996) is as follows: C~~ttingline

------. . - . - , - Multi-size cutting lines

1------, Grain lines r-l Place-to-fold lines Alteration line Seam line or stitching line ------

------Centre front or back ,

-. - .- -. I-Iem allowance

lem line

Button hole. H -1 -- 1%Pattern piece to the fabric for matching rn Or to indicated details.

Single notches

Double notches

Triple notches

# Pattern adaptation means alteration of a block pattern to other designs other than the original design. According to Ogunyide, Olusanya, Anfani-Joe, I

1 he selection or different blocks and then by further adaptation.

Equipment for pattern development, Fitting and Problems 'There are so many equipments that are necessary for carrying out pattern draAing. According to Aldrich (1 999), such equipments include: ir Working surface: a flat working surface is required, such as tables, boards, neat floor. These working surfaces should be flat and smooth

to have a perfect work. I 6' Pencil: use hard pencils for drafting patterns such as (2H pencil) and coloured pencils for outlining complicated areas. Paper: strong brown paper or white pattern paper should be used for pattern drafting. Parchment or thin card should be used for blocks that are used frequently. (d) : this is used to mark patterns or trace pattern marks during pattern alterations. (e) Tape: non-elastics tape should be used for measurements like body ineas~~reinentsand fBbric measurements. (f) Scissors: there are two types of scissors, paper scissors and F~bric scissors. Paper scissors is used to cut paper patterns while drafting patterns. (g) Carbon paper: this is used in transferring pattern marks from one pattern to the other. (11) : these are used in pinning curves while drafting patterns. * (i) Masking tape: this is a kind of paper cellotape that is used in joining papers during drafiing patterns. This is the best of all the cellotapes since it accepts pencil mark. (j) Skirt guide: this is usually used in marking out curves for example in skirts and trousers hip curves (k) Pattern notcher: this is a tool, which inarlts balance points by snipping out a section of pattern paper. (I) French curves: these are plastic shapes and curves which are available in a range of sizes and they are useful for drawing good curves especially at the armholes. (m) Pattern weighs: these keep pieces of pattern in position on the paper or cloth. (n) Computer equipment: computer systems for cutting and grading patterns. (0) Tailors chalk: this is used for marking out the final pattern unto the cloth and for imarlting alterations on the garments when it is being fitted. (p) Toile fabrics: calico is used for making toiles for designs in woven hbrics. (q) Fibre pens: these are required for writing clear instructions on patterns. These and others are equipments used in pattern draiiing. Novella (200 1 ) and Aldrich (1 999) suggested that for a perfect fit be inade in pattern drafting, all these equipinents must be in a perfect condition and be used as appropriate as possible. The initial patterns obtained in flat pattern drafting are not usually reliable for indicating a perfect fit. To obtain a more accurate fit, a calico shape or toile is used. Iloeje (1995) and Olcoye (1997) observed that a good fit depends as much on caref~dpreparation of the pattern as it does on skill in fitting the garment to the figure, especially as many faults cannot be corrected successfully after the fabric has been cut. This is because adjustments can be made exactly where they are needed on the pattern, where as, after the garment has been cut out, it can only be inade on the existing darts and seams. Often time seam allowances are not always adequate to the recutting necessary. Correcting the pattern for fit is safer and easier and more likely to be succefful than altering the garment constructed with faulty patterns.

Toile Fitting (Bodice and Sleeve) In toile fitting, the front and back bodice patterns as well as the sleeve are placed on calico fabric and all lines marked. A wide seam allowance is allowed at the centre back opening of the bodice so that the toile can be put on easily and pinned together down the back. Igbo and Iloeje (2003) suggested half inch seam to he allowed on curves and one inch seam on straight edges. At the centre back which is left open for fitting purposes, two inch seam is allowed. After transferring the markings from the pattern to the calico, the patterns are cut out. The armhole and neckline curves are stay - stitched to avoid stretching. The darts and seams are stitched using a long machine so that the thread can be pulled out easily. 'I'he toile is tried on a standard figure and necessary adjustments made. To get a clear and accurate picture of fit, appropriate shoes and undergarments are recommended. The procedure for fitting according to Stinger (1993), is as follows: The bodice is pinned up at the centre back: with a ball-point pen or sofi pencil, mark out any excess or short fall of fabric around the neck or armhole and also any change needed in the shoulder line position. Any excess buldging is also pinned. According to her fitting can be done by changing the size and position of darts and seam allowances. , wristline and waistline should be cornfortably snug and curved to fit naturally. All darts, shoulder and underarm are straightened with ruler. Curved ruler is qed as a guide to true curves. When the toile has been adjusted to solve all fitting problems, the corrections are transferred back to paper or to the original foundation. (Anyakoha and lloeje 2003). By unpicking the seams, the toile is taken apart, pressed and laid ilat for use. Igbo and Iloeje (2003) noted that this process of making the pattern fit the figure is known as "trueing the pattern". The trued patterns are transferred back to paper without seams. These now become the "master patterns" or "block patterns". In trueing the pattern, fabrics with stretch qualities are not suitable rather calico or strong cotton fabrics should be used. Pointers to good fit Readers Digest (1987) noted that appearance is one of the important factors to consider when judging garment for lit. For a good appearance, all darts and seams must fall in the proper places. 'lie garment should have a smooth look over all without pulls, creases, sagging or baggy areas. They outlined the following pointers to good fit:- - Shoulder seains rest smoothly on the shoulder tops, poi111towards the neck bone and end at shoulder joints.

- Sleeves hang lo the elbow, then towards ihc front as the :IHX does when

relaxed. fi - All vertical seams look straight from beginning to end and are not "wavy" along their length. - The hem is even and hangs parallel to the floor. - Darts taper towards and stop shorts of fullest part of the area they shape. - Waist seam rests at the natural waist (if this is the style) fits closely without . Cock (1981) noted tha~poor sewing and or poor pressing ohen gives impression of poor fit, hcncc good technicpcs arc csscntial for good dressmaking as well as good 111. Some of the techniques arc csscnlial for good dressmaking as well as good fit. Some of the techniques include placing patterns true to grain of fabrics; cutting accurately along lines; stitching and pressing of darts; basting by hand or machine and easing of li~llness.Erwin (1969), Cock (1981) identified five standards of good lit to include the following - ease, line, grain, set and balance.

-Ease According to Johnson and 1:ostcr (1990), and Kindcrslcy (1096), Ease is the extra amount a designer leaves beyond the body ineas~~rcmcntat any given

1 points. A garment with adequate ease, seems to be the right size. 11 neither draws nor looks baggy and ii does not rise up in sitting or wearing when the or wearing when the ease is correct. Adequate ease is ensured at the sleeve cap, over bust and seat of garment. Insufficient ease in a garment is indicated by loose vertical folds (Anyakoha and Iloeje 2003). Johnson and Foster (1 990) also observed that there are two types of ease whether in a pattern or a ready- made garment. One is the 'wearing ease' for body movement and comfort and the other is the designers ease for fashion or style. They also noted that a pattern designed only for knitted or stretcheable fabrics will include less wearing ease than a pattern ihr woven fabrics. This is because a woven fabric has little or no stretch supported Utuk (1 992). According to 1.eena (2000), ease allowances should not be included for babies garments because their clothes are deliberately designed for a lose fit. 'This is because most of their garments are worn over other clothes.

Line Line refers to many a.spects of fitting: the silhonette of the garments, the proportion of the garment to the figure and of various parts of the garment to each other; the shapes of the curved lines and the placing of the details of the design (Tuit 1975) and Osai (2003). They also observed that line is affected by the q~~alityof the sewing more than any other factors in fitting. Hence the need

lor accuracy in all dressmaking process - from cutting out to final stitching. 'This goes to emphasis the importance of mastery of certain dressmaking techniques. lloe-je (1995) noted that the shoulder, underarm blouse seam and side seains should appear in a continuous line from tip of ear to ankle.

Circumference lines - neckline, armhole, wristline, waistline and

should be smoothly graded curves - following the natural curves of the body. The neckline should set up well in the back hugging the neck yet comfortable. 'The armhole should be oval-neither round nor pointed under the arm. It should follow with natural creases made where the arm joins the body. Iloeje (1995) observed that if the armhole is too low, the arm cannot be lifted cornfortably with a set-in sleeve. The waistline seems parallel with the floor but a bit lower in the back to fit the natural hollow. The hemline should be parallel to the floor. The waistline should be long enough at the underarm seam that it will not pull away at the wrist but from a continuous curve to the tip of the hand.

--C rain The threads or , the unit that make cloth are called "the grain", grain refers to the lengthwise and crosswise threads from which a woven fabric is constructed (Iloeje 1995). She observed that in the standard basic sleeve, the lengthwise thread should hang vertically from top of shoulder to elbow and cross wise threads in the upper sleeve should be parallel to the floor. Muscare # (2003) observed that in the standard basic pattern, the lengthwise grain should run perpendicular to thee floor at back, bust and hip.

-Set A smootliness of "set" or freedom from wrinkles is always required for a good-looking fit. Folds created by gathers, unpressed , or draped features are style lines which must not be confused with wrinkles. Winkles appear like slanting triangles straining from some curves or buldge of the body. Wrinltles are usually on the bias because it is more elastic an gives way to strain. According to Ossai (2003), creases are due to poor pressing and they detract from the smooth look which is desired.

Balance For desired balance the dress should hang so that it extents the saine distance form the legs from right to left and from front to back. The shoulder seam should rest evenly on the shoulder and not b~~ldgeaway from the neck. lloeje and Anyaltoha (2003) observed that pattern manufacturers have done a great deal to help make sewing easy. For instance all large companies print their patterns and make them easy to understand and extremely accurate. Most patterns today are carefully labeled. The pattern number, size and the company making the patterns are all in addition each pattern piece is labeled so that you know whether it is a collar, a sleeve, bodice front or back or some other parts of the garment. Patterns are however not without its problen~s.They will fit well in some places and less well in others. Iloeje (1995) observed that among the proble~nsencountered is the frequent changes in size and shape of a growing child's figure and the need to make adjustments. This situation calls for knowledge of pattern alteration as well as grading.

Methods of clothing construction Methods of constructing clothing are the skills involved in * making garments which will give the right fit to the person that puts on the garments. These sltills are being take one afer the other. Cock (198 1) suggested the following order or steps of work to obtain a perfect fit of the garment. The order is as follows Preparation of fabric and cutting out Making the pattern on the fabric Run the gathering threads and pleats in position. Tack together basic sections of garment for fitting. 1;itting and alterations if necessary Separate sections and transfer alterations to left-hand side of garment. If major alterations, refit and separate again. Ilisposal of dullness-darts, pleats, tucks of smoclting. Shoulder seams and panel lines. Malte and attach pockets, prepare bound Collar Front and neck facings, completion of bound buttonholes Worked Side seams and skill seams Wrist opening, sleeve seam, cuff andlor salvage edge neatening lnsert sleeve, face armhole if no sleeves. ( 16) Join skirt to the bodice

( 1 7) and zip fasteners.

( 1 8) I-Ielnline after final fitting. ( 19) Final press. (20) Attach , holes, eyes and press studs. Finally, she advised that each stage should be pressed as it is completed. According to Ossai (2003), there are two major orders of clothing

construction. They are - round method and the flat method.

Round Order of Assembling: Garment b This method can be used for any style but most suitable for garment with waist seam. The first step is to tack together each main part of a garment. For instance The Bodice -shoulder side seam, fix yoke and ~odiceto sltirt/trouser/short (dress with seam at waist)

The Sleeve - tack together the underarm seam and cuff edge. The skirtltrouser- Tack the side seains and hem. 'The second step is for fixing small parts to larger parts. Example collar to bodice sleeve to bodice, bodice to skii-throuser. (Aniltweze 2004).

Flat Method. 'This illelhod of assembling garment is most suitable for garment inade in one piece form- shoulder to hem (straight garment). The order here are as follows (I j join shoulder seains (2) complete the neckline edge (3) set-in the sleeve or finish armhole ifsleeveless. (4) Join side seam from underarm to hem. (5) Finish edge of sleeves and skirt or trouser hem.(Aldrich 1999 and Aniltweze 2004). Review of Related Studies. A lot of work or research have been carried out on clothing construction with the view of finding out how best to help the local garment manufacturers construct perfect fitting garments. Anyakoha (1982) carried out a study to identify the competencies in clothing and textile needed by Home economics teachers in post-primary school in Anambra State using 185 post-primary school Home Economics teachers. In the study, she found out that Home Economics teachers lack some skills and competencies req~iiredin pattern drafting in teaching clothing and textile in Anamhra state. She also found out that this is the major reason why clothi& construction students could not carry out any meaningful practical work afier secondary education. Hence the researcher indicated that there is need to improve skills in pattern drafting among Home Economic teachers in Anambra state. lgbo (1989) carried out research on the development and evolution of task instruction sheet for teaching selected clothing construction skills to senior secondary school students in Anambra state. The researcher used both the teachers in secondary school and students in secondary school in her research. She used questionnaire to obtain information from the teachers and used instruction sheet and demonstration method to get information Gom the students. Result from her study showed that tasks and skills such as pattern selection, pattern drarting, choosing commercial patterns, performing pattern adaptations, transferring pattern mark, cutting out pattern pieces among others are lacking in their area of study. Similarly, lloeje (1995) carried out a research to establish the average body measurement and development of block patterns for female adolescents in Enugu state. She used two adolescent females from 55 girls secondary school in the study area. She took 18 parts of the body using fibre-steel tape. Results from her research showed that there is no significant dirference in the mean body n~easurementsof adolescent females aged 12 to 14 for bust, waist, hip and back waist length. She drafted the basic block pattern of the bodice- front and back pattern of the bodice-front and back, skirt-front and back and the sleeve using the average mean of body measurements of the targeted group. The researcher finally came up with the conclusion that garments made with patterns are indispensable. Utuk (1991) in a study titled "development and evaluation of three techniques for teaching basic pattern drafting in senior secondary schools in Akwa Iboin" discovered that teachers lack competencies in teaching pattern drafiing. Therefore, students lack pattern drafting skill hence a need for the

present research. @ Igbo (2003) in her study titled pattern drafting tasks for effective teaching oS pattern drafting techniques in clothing and textile curriculum of tertiary institution, found out thirty-four (34) pattern drafting tasks. 1:ollowing the above discussions, there is an indication that there is still gap in the area of pattern drafting especially among children's clothing construction. Bergen, Capjack, McKenna, Ligard Richard, (1 996) carried o~~tresearch and investigated the unique clothing needs of neonates under hospital care. In their research they applied the functional design process criteria of comfort, safely, adjustabiljty, accessibility, aesthetics and production to evaluate prototype garments for premature babies. In their findings, they identified a definite need for clothing in a range of sizes with special adjustments for premature infants in the intensive care of hospitals. Their findings also showed that clothing designed specifically for neonates in the intensive care setting should provide a pacifying micro- enviroiinient to reduce heat loss, meet the medical procedure required in the intensive care unit and as well provide a sense of security in the baby. Anikweze (2003) carried out a research on development and evaluation of dress patterns for women with figure problems in Enugu State. Female adults of25 years and above were used for the research. Using figure problems and identification questionnaire, she was able to identify some strategic figure hip and back waist length. She drafted the basic block pattern of the bodice- front and back pattern of the bodice-front and back, skirt-front and back and the sleeve using the average mean of body ineasureinents of the targeted group. The researcher finally came up with the conclusion that garments made with patterns are indispensable. Utuk (1991) in a study titled "developinent and evaluation of three techniques for teaching basic pattern drafting in senior secondary schools in Akwa Iboin" discovered that teachers lack competencies in teaching pattern drafting. Therefore, students lack pattern drafting skill hence a need for the present research. b Igbo (2003) in her study titled pattern drafting tasks for effective teaching of' pattern drafing techniques in clothing and textile curriculum of tertiary institution, found out thirty--four(34) pattern drafting tasks. 1;ollowing the above discussions, there is an indication that there is still gap in the area of pattern drafting especially among children's clothing construction. Dergen, Capjack, McKenna, Ligard Richard, (1 996) carried out research and investigated the unique clothing needs of neonates under hospital care. In their research they applied the fi~nctionaldesign process criteria of comfort, safely, adj ustability, accessibility, aesthetics and prodilction to evaluate prototype garments for premature babies. In their findings, they identiijed a definite need for clothing in a range of sizes with special adjustments for premature infants in the intensive care of hospitals. Their findings also showed that clothing designed specifically for neonates in the intensive care setting should provide a paciljling micro- environment to reduce heat loss, meet the medical procedure required in the intensive care unit and as well provide a sense of security in the baby. Anikweze (2003) carried out a research on development and evaluation of dress patterns fbr women with figure problems in Enugu State. Female adults of 25 years and above were used for the research. Using figure problems and identification questionnaire, she was able to identify some strategic figure alnong female adults. In her findings she identified some ligure problems among the female adults- which include size of their bust, shape of their stomach, shape of their hips and the shape of their upper arms. She selected nine (9) women as models. Nwokolo (1989), in his study on appraisal of pre-schoolers' clothing within Enugu and Nsukka urban observed that parents within Nsukka and Enugu urban areas have positive attitude towards the clothes of their children as fa- as proper development of their children is concerned. He also found out that allowances for growth were also created in children's clothes giving the impression that they are aware of the fact that their children are growing. Jle also Cound out that allowances that will accommodate increase in height and girl11 were perceived by their parents. He observed also that clothes that are flame retardant were also considered by their parents as being important having the knowledge of the consequences that accoinpanies clothes that support flame especially in time of accident. Okoye (1997) in her work Development of patterns for making female children's dresses ages 1 to 12 in Zaria used thirty designs obtained in different catalogues for different age groups to design wears for children. She also carried out body measurements and worked out average body measurement which she used in drafiing her patterns. She drafied patterns for party wears, play wears, church wears, night wears and school uniforms. Based on her findings, she discovered that for any design to be well developed it must make use of the basic patterns in flat method of pattern drafting. She recommended that clothing construction should be given a high priority in schools and colleges and that more time should be allocated to practical clothing construction in schools and colleges. Novella (2001) in her study on "pre-school growth and development- a matter of principles" identified that $e-school children's clothing should not be allocated based on their age but should be based on their body sizes. Summary of Literature Revicw. Literature review in this chapter indicated that cloths play very important role in the life of people. Clothes are worn to covcr nudity, protect the body against harsh weathcr and also to adorn the body among others. It was also highlighted in the review that there are several metl~odsof pattern drafting such as draping, flat pattern, Itnoclt off design, co~np~~tcr-aideddesign and others. These methods of' drafiing show various ways 01' producing patterns for fitting dresses. The importance of pattern to our sewing factories was also dealt with. Literature had clearly indicated that tlicl-e arc many skills in pattern drafting, which include idcntilication of ilic right pnttsrn of the body it measure, ability to measure body acctirately, ability to sl

(iv) Actual collection of body meas~~ren~ents(data collection) (v) Analysing the data collected

(vi) Drafting of the block/master patterns (vii) Trueing the drafted patterns Design of the study. A survey and quasi-experimental design was used for the study. The survey aspect was used to elicit information about the background of the inale preschool children, while the quasi-experimental was the actual taking of measurement of the male preschool children and the drafiing of the basic block patterns using the data collected during measurement. Area of Study The study was conducted in Enugu State of Nigeria. Enugu state is one of the states in south-east geo-political zone of Nigeria. It is made up

of five educational zones namely - Enugu, Nsukka, IJdi, Obollo-Afor and Awgu zones. The study took place in Enugu, Nsukka and Awgu zones.

Population of the Stndy The popdation of this study constituted all dress makesltailors in Enugu State and all male pre-school children in Enugu State. The study covered all government approved Nursery and day care centres in Enugu state vyhich is 284 nursery schools with a total number of 43,486 children according to state ministry of Education, office of the Statistics (Enugu State 2004) and also covered total of 1872 dress makesltailors in Enugu State. This information was obtained from the dress maltersltailors Association of Enugu state. Out of 43,486 pre-school children in Enugu state, 18,740 are male pre-school association in Enugu state, only 38 out them specialized on children's wear. 'l'herefore 18740 male pre-school children and 35 dress inarltersltailors who specialized in children's wear formed the population of the study Sample. Two types of random sampling techniques were utilized. The researcher used flip papers in which all the names of the zones were written. These papers were folded and put in a container. After mixing them well together the drawer closed her eyes and selected one after the other making sure that they were mixed together afer each draw. Nsukka, Enugu and Awgu zones were selected using this method of random sampling. According to Enugu State Ministry of Education Statistics there are 284 nursery schools approved by the government. Out of 284 nursery schools in Enugu State, 162 are existing in the 3 zones randomly selected. Enugu zone has 65 nursery schools approved by the govcrnmenl while Nsultka zone 11as 56 mrrsery schools approved by the government and Awgu zone has 41 approved Nursery scl~ools.Out of 162 nursery schools in the selected zones, 36 nursery schools were randomly selected using the tale of random digit method of random sampling giving a total number of 12 nursery schools in each of the zones randomly selected. According to Kerlinger (1 986) random sampling gives every sub-ject being sampled an equal chance or probability of being selected. All the 38 dress markerltailors who specialized in children's wear all used since the number was small. For the pre-school children, proportionate sampling was used in selecting 100 male pre-school children from Enugu zone, 100 male pfe-school children from Nsukka zone and 100 male pre-school children from Awgu zone, malting a total number of 300 rnale pre-school children to form the sample of the study. The total is certainly a small sample size but it will be considered adequate because the population is homogenous. Homogenous sample according to Nwanna (1982) implies that there is little variability in establishing body ineasurement and development of block patterns for male pre-school children.

Instrument for Data Collection Two major instrument for data collection were developed after a through review of literature on essential body measurement needed for drafting flat pattern and constructing garment for accurate fit. a. A structured questionnaire with responses- very appropriate, Appropriate, undecided, inappropriate and very inappropriate with values 5,4,3,2 and 1 assigned was developed. This was used to collected data for research question 1. A body measurement chart (BMC) developed by the researcher through a review of literature on essential body measurement needed for drafting flat patterns and constructing garment for accurate fit. Body measurement Chart (RMC) is a chart which was used in recording data of the essential body -- measurement which were used in drafting block patterns. The BMC contained about seventeen (1 7) body measurements selected for use in obtaining body measurement data which will be used to develop master patterns that will fit every Nigerian male pre-school children. These measurements were taken from the randomly selected male pre-school children using fibre tape calibrated in inches and centimeters.

Validation of the Instrument

r . 1 hrec expcrts wcrc cmploycd to Sax validatc tllc instrun~cnt.'l'wo ofthc experts were clothing and textile senior lecturers in the departmen) oS vocational teacher education, home science department and one nursery school teacher from Pine nursery school at 303 Margaret Cartwright Avenue, all from University ol' Nigeria Nsultka. These experts were used because of their wide experience in the sub-ject area and research. The suggestions and advice of the experts helped to moderate and correct the instrulnent employed in the research.

Reliability of Instrument A trial test was carried out using nine (9) male pre-school children in Udi zone who were not part of the sample. The data collected were used to obtain required body parts that were measured and to obtain average body measurement. Cronbach Alfa co-efficient was used to test the reliability of the BMC. Data Collection 'I'echniques. 'rhe body measurement chart were completed personally by thc researcher and two trained research assistants. Using the body measurement guide the researcher taught the two assistants different n~easureinentsto be taken, sites or location oS the body where these ineasut'ements were to be taken and how to take each measurement. The assistants iepealcdly took the nleasurements of the sub-jects as demonstrated by the researcher until they were able to get uniformed data and have gained mastery of the techniques involved. The researcher and two assistants recorded the measurements made in the body measurement chart (BMC). The ineasure~nentswere taken over one layer of garment which is their school uniform. Cardigans, vests or adornments were removed so as not to interfere with the data. Fibre steel tape was used for the body measurement. While the measurement was going on, the researcher a~~d her assistants were asking the subjects same questions about the body measurement chart to obtain information about the subject's background.

#

Procedure for taking measurements While measuring, the subjects stood naturally, hands by the sides, looking straight ahead and only moved when requested to do so. Readings of the body measurennerlts listed below were recorded to the nearest centimeter after three consecutive ~iieasurements.They were:shoulder length, waist, back waist length, slioulder width, front waist length, overarm length, wrist, shoulder to elbow, elbow, body rise, trouser length and inside leg. For chest and hip measurements readings were recorded to the nearest even centimeter (see figure 1-3 for illustration).

Shoulder length. Measurements were taken fi-om the base of the neck to the shouldcr edge. To determine the base of the neck, subjects were asked to shrug their shoulders.

Chest. Measurements were taken from the inaxiinurn girth measurement under the armpit with the tape passing over the shoulder blades and across the chest. Waist Measurement was taken as the waist girth measurements of the child with the abdomen relaxed. To determine waistline, a string was tied snugly around the waist and this was rolled to the natural waistline. The waist measurement was taken around the string marker.

Hir, Measurement was talsen around fullest part of hip (9cm-12cin) below waistline.

# Back Waist Length. Measurement was talsen from the prominent bone at the base of neck to the natural waist.

Shoulder Width Measurements was talsen from one edge of the shoulder across the back to the other edge.

Front Waist Len~th Measurement was taken from the base of the neck at the shoulder passing over the point of one breast, to the waistline.

Over Arm Length Measurement was talsen from the top of arm, over bent elbow, to the wrist bone.

Wrist Measurement was talsen around the wrist.

Shoulder-to-elbow. Measurement was taken froni edge of shoulder to the prominent bone at the elbow Elbow: Measurement was taken around elbow with bent arm.

-Body Rise Meas~ireinentwas taken on a seated figure from the side waistline to the top of the stool.

Troriser Length Measurement was taken fiom the waistline to below the anltle.

b Inside Leg Measurement was taken round the anltle loosely to enable the legs to enter easily.

Procedure For Drafting Basic Block Patterns for Bodice, llsing a ruler, a set of square, a right-angle and French curves, a basic block lbr bodice fi-ont and bodice back was drafied on paper as shown in Ilgure 4 following the method below established by Igbo and Iloeje (2003). Method for Back Bodice Block I. Start fiom a point A which is 4cm from the left hand of the brown paper (see figure 4) 2. From A measure AB equal to half length of back measurement. This is usually shorter than the front by 2.5cm or 1. 3. From A lneasure AC horizontally, which is equally to 1/4 bust measurement plus 1cm for ease. 4. From B measure BD equal to AC. 5. Complete the rectangle ABDC. 6. From A measure AE equal to half AB. From C measure CF equal to ha1 f CD. From A mark out AG equal to VI of line AC plus 1.25c1.n or %" and from C' mark off CII equal lo half of AG. From A measure 2cm or % doownwai-d on line AE to locate I. Join I to G with a curve, this brim the back neck. . lrom G measure half of GH to loqate J. From J measure 2.5crn or 1 to locate J1, get the point half way between J and J1 and label it 52, and from J2, measure 7.5~1~or 3" down, draw a straight line on this to locate 53. Join J, 51 and 52 to 53

lo form Ihe shoulder dart. From 11 locate fKequal to 3cm or % down with broken lines, Join G to I< with a straiglx line to form shoulder line. Join 1; measure 1:1 wiih a F~enchcurve to form armhole. l7l.o1~1D measure 1 .3,5cm or !h inch to locate 1,. join F1 to 1, to form side seam. 'lo locate waist dart line, measure BL which is definitely Inore than

1/4 of waist, find the difference between 3L, and the act~ral'/j waist measurement, this is now the width of the waist dart line. From E-3 measure 8.75cm or 3 112 inches to M on line BL. 1;rom M locate waist dart width MN (which is the difference between DL and '4 of the waist measurement). Find half oSMN label it 0. draw a straight line 12.5 to 15cm or 5 lo 6 inches upwards to locate I). Join P to 0, P to M and P to N to form waist fine dart. The basic back pattern is complete. Cut out the pattern and lhel centre back (CD)* I3odicc Master I'a t tern (BACK) (Figure 4) For the Front Bodice Block Thc materials required are the same as for back bodice. Similarly, the rncas~~rement needed is the same as fix back bodice. Method Follow instructions I to 6 as in back hodice pattern to obtain fig. 5 in part. Then: From A mark out AG equal to of line AC' plus 1.25~111.from C mark CIA equal to '/I AC ody. from A measure Al equal to 'A of line AE plus 1.25cn\. Join I lo G with a curve to form tiont neck curve. Froill I I mark 1lJ downward equal to 2.5~111or 1 inch with broken line. Join G to J to form shoulder line. fi From F nleasllre FK equal to 2cm or inches Join J to K with a curve as in the figure. Extend length of bodice by 2.5 to 3.7cn1 or 1 to 1 !4 inches downwards to obtain ljl and Dl respectively. Measure 1.25cm or % inch from 111 to locate 1,. lacate waistline dart as in Sack bodice block: i.e. measure 8.8cm or 3 % inches from l3, and mark M. Then lrom M locate N which is got by s~htracting% of bust Srom 'A of waist measurements. Finish up as in hacl< bodice block. 1:roni I< mcastlre 6.25~1~or 2 % inches downwards to local Q. 1:rcm Q measure 2.5 to 4cm or 1 to 1 '/2 incl~esdownwards to locate I<. Find the centre of QR and label it S. from S make a slanting line towards the tip of waist line dart, measuring about 12.5cin or 5 inches and label it '1'. Join S to T, Q to ,I' and R to T to form the bust dart. Join 1,. to l3 with a slanting line. Trace our IGKII 21,1 which is now the complzte fiont bodice block. Make sure you tracc out all dart marks. Label centre front (Cl;).

Source: Igbo & IloeJe (2003). The Basics of Dress Pattern Drafting, page 21 - 22).

Sleeve Master Pattern Measurements I . Sleeve length (short) 2. AI~circuin ference; 3. Armhole measurement of front and back bodice blocl<; 4. 1:iill length sleeve measurement. Method To obtain a short sleeve pattern as in fig.6: 1. Draw a line AB equal to sleeve circumference plus 2.5~111 2. Divide line AR into two equal parts to locate C. # 3. 1;rom C draw CD upwards equal to your sleeve length. 4. from points A and B respectively draw straight lines equal to half CD plu: 2.5~111upwards to locate E and F. 5. Join E to D and F to D with straight lines locate centre of EI) and twc thirds (213) of DF from D to obtain El and Fl respectively. Join EEIDFlF with smooth double concavo-convex curves as shown to obtain armholc

curve equal to armhole measurements of both front and back bodice plus i little fullness for easing in. 6. From A and R respectively measurements 1.25cm or '/2 inch inwards tc locat G and H respectively. 7. .Join E to G and F to 11. 8. You will then come out with'the complete sleeve pattern GEEIDFIFI-IG. lgbo, C.A. & Iloeje, C.I., 2003: 23/24). Short Sleeve Master Pattern (Fie. 6) 0 - 1 f3ody rise pl~~sone cm, minus waist b~lddepth7 square across. 0 - 2 Waist to hip plus I cln minus waistband depth; SC~LI~IX:across. 1-3 Inside leg; square across 1-4 !A measurement of 1-3 minus 3cm. 1-5 !A hip plus 1 .5cm; square 1113to 6 a~id7, 6-8 !4 hip rneas~~~.e~ncntplus 1.5c.lll. 5-9 111 6 hip plus 0.5~111. 7-10 lcm join 10-6, join 6-9 with a curve touclii~~ga poilit 2.25~111lieom 5 10- I I is % waist measurement plus 0.75cm 3- 12 '/Z 11-OLIS~I-bottom width n~ini~s0.5cm 4- 13 'I'he ~neasul-emcnt 3-12 plus I cm 3-14 !4 t~+ouscrIwttom width minus 0.Scnl 4-1 5 '1 he mcasul-emcnt 3-1 4 plus I c~ridraw in side seam tlit-ough points I I, 8, 13, 12; curve hip line outwards 0.2Scm Draw in side Icg seam 9, t 5, 14, cul-vc 9-15 in 0.75cm. 5-1 6 '/I nleasureme~it1-5; Squarc up to 1 7 on Iiip linc, 18 on waistline. 16- 19 !G measurement 16-1 8.

2 1-22 !4 waist plus 1.25c1n. loin 21-22 to touch the horizontal line limm 0. 9-23 '/: rnci~su~-cmcnt5-9, 23-24 0.25cm. Join 2 1-1 9, join 19-24 wit11 a cu~vcto~~ching a point 3.5cm from 16.

17 -- 25 % hip pills 1 cm 12-26 Icm. 13.-27 1 cnl, 14-28 lcm 15-29 1 cm. Draw in sick seam through points, 22, 25, 27, 26; cul-vc Iiiplinc o~~twards0.25cii1, 25-27 inwards 0.25~111 thaw inside leg seam 24, 29, 28; curve 24-29 1.25cm. 2 1-30 l/i measurc~iicnt 2 1-22; sc1ual.c clow~ili.o~il the l inc 2 1-22. Data Analysis Technique. 'To establish the average body measurements, the body measurement of male pre-school children obtained was analyzed using the mean, and analysis of variance (ANOVA) (a) The Mean The mean that was used to determine the average body measurements of male pre-school children subjects were derived from four groups (2,3,4,5 years). The mean for each group were calculated by summing LIP the measurements that were obtained from each variable and dividing, by the number of subjects measured. 'I'he mean measurement that was obtained was used in drafting block patterns for the target group. a. The standard error of the mean was used in determining areas of measurement that show marked variation within groups. b. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to test the hypothesis at 0.05 level 01- significance. CHAPTER POIJR PRESENTATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA This chapter deals with the presentation and analysis of data collected in the study. The main p~~rposeof the st~ldywas to establish the average body

measurements of' male pre-school children aged between 2 - 5 years for use in developing suitable block patterns for them as well as to test the patterns developed for fit and coinfort. The chapter is developed under the following subheadings: i, Background information of subjects. . . 11. Taking body ineasuren~entof male pre-school children aged 2 - 5 years. ... 111. Average body lneasurernents of male pre-school children aged 2 - 5 years.

iv. Drafting the block patterns of male pre-school children aged 2 - 5 years. v. 'Trueing for tit and comfort using calico fabrics.

Background Knformation of Subiects Information was sought on the subjects7 state of origin, place of dwelling for most years, family size as well as the socio-economic status of parents. Responses from the questionnaire showed that inost of the subjects 70% are of Enugu state origin and they have lived inost of their lives in urban areas with their parents. They have average family size of between 5-8 numbers and their parents are mostly middle-income earners. Itesearch Question I What parts of the body should measurement be taken to provide data for basic block patterns? The body parts that were measured include across back, back neck to waist, body rise, chest, elbow, the head circumference, hip, inside leg, over arin length, sho~llderlength, shoulder to elbow, trouser length, under arin length, waist, waist hip, wrist circumference and width of ankle. Measurement takc from these body parts provided data used in getting average boc measurement which was used in the drafiing of basic block patterns of ma pre-school children.

Table 1: Body parts to be measured fbr drafting block patterns and their lnea

2pars 3 years 4 years S_ye~?rs .. .~,.... ~ ~ .-- ...... ~. -. 1 1 1 Slroulder length (SHL) 16.9 18.2 19.8 111.7 - - - 1 2 1lead Circum ference (HiC)

~ ~ ~ - ~. 1 3 1Back neck to waist (I-IL) 1 23.4 123.8 125.7 / 29.9 ~.~ 1 4 1 Across back (AIR) 120.8 / 21.3 / 23.3 (28.4

~ . ) 5 1 Waist to hip (WIM) 79.5 111.8 113.2 114.1

.- ~ .~~ ~ ~ 1 6 / Under arm length (II/L) 130.3 133.2 1 36 / 37.5

~ / 7 1 Wrist circumference (RA) 11 1.7 t 13 b3.3 r14.0 1 8 1 Shoulder to elbow (SIE) 1 13.1 / 14.3 / 15.3 / 18.1 I

1 12 1 Inside leg (111~) / 40.3 / 42.8 / 45.8 149.8 ------rl~Twidth of ankle (WIA) T-~4--p.6 116.9 / 18.9

- ~ -. - . 14 . Hip __ 154. _ f, _ 4::.,6 I/T---.... _ 15 Waist 3 7.9 5 5.8 58.6

-~- . - .-.- ~- ~ -- ~ ~-- .-.. - . -- - - -. -- .-- - .- 16 Chest 53.9 55.3 60.7 - - ' - . - 17 Elbow 117 18.9 20.3 22.7

------. - .-- . . .. -... . . ~ i - .- 'The above mean was derived from fig. 4 to 15. Research Question 2 What are the average body measurements of male pre-school children in Enugu state? 'The data for answering research question two are suininarized in Table 2-9 Table 2-9 shows the mean measurements of the age groups for the different body measurements taken. A look at table 2-9 shows that the mean body measurement for each of the variables progresses with age.

Table 2 Mean body measurements of 2years old (Measurements in Cm)

------one Age Variable Mean Varian

------All the 2 years Across back 3.360E. Zones Back Neck to waisl 3.348E. Awgu Body Rise 4.333B- Enugu Chesl 4.800E. Nsukka Elbow 2.560E. I lead Circumference 1.3331: Hip 3.253E Inside 1,eg 4.475E. Over Arm 1,ength .- Shoulder L,ength 1.333L Shoulder to Elbow 2.949B- 'Trouser 1,ength 9.653E- I lndcr Arm Length 6.933E Waist 5 16.9 Waist to I lip 1.05 1 E- Waisl ('ircumference 3.73311:- Wid111 ofA11klc 2.352F

------Table - 3 Mean body measurements-- for 3years (measurements in- Cm) --

- Age Variable Sum Mean Std deviation -- -- 3 years Across back 62.08 2 1.3600 13ack Neck to waist 7168 23.8933 I3ody Rise 49.59 16.5300 Chest 165.96 55.3200 Elbow 56.84 18.9467 I lead Circumference 151.28 50.4267 l lip 166.34 55.4467 Insjde 1.eg 128.64 42.8800 Over Arm Length 1 10.36 36.7867 Sllo~~ldcrLength 24.76 8.2533 Shoulder to Elbow 43.05 14.3500 Trouser 1,ength 183.28 16.0933 Under Arm Length 99.88 332933 Waist 156.00 52.0000 Waist to 1 Iip 35.64 1 1 .8800 Waist Circumference 39.08 13.0267 Width of Ankle 47.06 156867

- --Table 4 Mean bod measurements of Qyearsold (Measurements in A_-Cm) Zone I Variables+ Sum Mean I Std. Variance - . -- Deviation ------. All ihe 4 Years Across Back 69.92 23.3067 .I 804 3.253B-0 Zones Back Neck to waist 77.38 25.7933 ,1815 3.293E-0 A wgu I3ody Rise 54.44 18.1467 6.1 1 OE-02 3.733E-0 I~nugu Chest 174.28 58.0933 6.1 10E-02 3.733E-0 Nsukka Elbow 61.14 20.3800 .6762 .45 1 lcad Circumference 155.92 5 1.9733 .I007 1.013E-0 Hip 184.80 6 1.6000 1.2528 1.57 hide 1,eg 137.60 45.8667 .2730 7.453E-C Over Arm Length I 13.84 37.9467 1007 1 .0 13E-C Shoulder Length 29.44 9.8133 .3926 .15 Shoulder to Elbow 46.18 15.3933 7.638G-02 5.833E-C frouser Length 185.76 6 1 .'ZOO 1833 3.360E-C IJnder Arm 1,ength 108.00 36.0000 8.000E-02 6.400E4 Waist 167.52 55.8400 .I386 1.920E-( Waist to Ilip 39.74 13.2467 .I332 I .773E-( Waist Circumference 39.90 13.3000 8.718E-02 7.600E4 Wid111 of' Ankle - -- 50.06 16.9867 .I405 1.973E4 ble 5 Mt In bodv measurements of 5vears old (Measurements in Cm)I_--_ Age Variables Sum Mean Std. Variance I -- Deviation 5 Years Across Back 85.26 28.4200 .8848 .78: Back Neck to waisl 86.88 29.9600 .I386 1.920E-0: Body Rise 62.20 20.7333 .4772 .221 Chest 182.24 60.7467 1222 1.493E-0: Elbow 68.32 22.7733 ,4388 .19: 1 lead Circumference 164.56 54.8533 6.110E-02 3.733E-0: 1-1i p 201.36 67.1200 .6548 .42' Inside Leg 149.68 49.8933 .4738 .22! Over Arm 1,englh 1 17.44 30.1467 .5001 .25( Shoulder Length 35.28 1 1.7600 .3251 lo( Shoulder to Elbow 54.46 18.1533 1343 1.803E-0: Tro~~serLength 208.68 69.5600 2.3210 5.38: IJnder Arm Ixnglh 112.76 37.5867 6.11 OE-02 3.733E-0: Waisl 176.08 58.6933 .6649 .44: Waist to Hip 42.54 14.1800 4.000E-02 1.600E-0: W aisl Circum Serence 42.10 14.0333 .2lo8 4.443E-0: Widlh of Ankle 56.96 18.9867 2.309E-02 5.33313-01 - -.-- Table 6: Average body measurements (cm) for 2years

A ------Age Variables - Sum Mean Std. Deviat 2 years Across Back 522.00 20.8800 Back Neck to waist 587.70 23.5080 Body Rise 378.00 15.1200 Chest 1348.00 53.9200 Elbow 423 .OO 16.9200 I lead Circumference 123 1 .OO 49.2400 Ilip 1346.00 53.8400 Inside Leg 1003.10 40.1240 Over Arm Length 836.00 33.4400 Shoulder Length 171 .OO 6.8400 Shoi~lderto Elbow 330.30 13.2120 'Trouser Length 1444.00 57.7600 Under Arm Length 766.00 30.6400 Waist 1274.00 50.9600 Waist to I-lip 236.40 9.4560 Waist Circumference 292.00 1 1.6800

-Width of Ankle 359.90 14.3960 - 2 years Across Back 252.00 2 1 .0000 Back Neck to waist 587.30 23.4920 Body Rise 377.00 1 5.0800 Chest 1348.00 53.9200 tllbow 43 1 .oo 17.2400 I lead Circumference 123 1.00 49.2400 Ilip 1355.00 54.2000 Inside I,cg 1012.60 40.5040 Over Arm Length 866.00 34.6400 Shoulder Lxngth 176.00 7.0400 Shoulder to Elbow 325.00 13.0000 Trouser Length 1459.00 58.3600 Under Arm Length 769.00 30.7600 Waist 1273.00 50.9200 Waist to tlip 238.50 9.5400 Waist C'ircumkrence 293.00 1 1.7200 Width of Ankle 362.00 14.4800 - .- 2 years Across Back 5 16.00 20.6400 Back Neck to waist 585.00 23.4000 Body Rise 377.30 15.0920 Cllest 1351.00 54.0400 Elbow 427.00 17.0800 I lead Circumference 1226.00 49.0400 Hip 1350.00 54.0000 Inside Leg 1012.10 10.4840 Over Arm Length 857.00 34.2800 Sho~~lderLength 176.00 7.0400 Shoulder to Elbow 333.50 13.3400 I'rotrscr I ,er~gth 1448.00 57.9200 1Jnder Arm Length 770.00 30.8000 Waist 1280.00 5 1.2000 Waist to 1 lip 24 1.50 1.6600 Waist Circiumference 295.00 1 1 .so00 Width of Ankle --- 361.90 14.4760 6 1

Table 7 Average body measurements (in Cm) for three years old male ldren . . Er? Zone Age Variii bles Sum Std. Variance

.------.. - - Deviation Nsult k'i 3 years Actoss Hack 533.00 1.3760 Hack Neck to waist 598.00 .8 124 Body Rise 4 12.00 .533 1 Chest 1 3 83 .OO ,6904 Elbow 473 .oo .7594 Head Circumference 1264.00 ,9609 tlip 1383.50 .6880 Ins~de1,eg 1075.00 1.080 1 Over Arm Length 91 2.00 1.5843 Shoulder Imgth 207.00 1.1000 Shoulder to Elbow 360.50 ,6069 Trouser Length 1529.00 ,746 1 Under Arm Length 829.00 1.3128 Waist 1303.OO 1.64 1 1 Waist to t lip 296.00 ,8000 Waist Circumference 328.00 ,7257 Width of Ankle 394.00 ,5260

--- . 3 Years Across Back Hack Neck to waist Body Rise Chest Elbow 1lead Circumference t lip Inside 1,eg Over Arm Length Shoulder Length Shoulder to Elbow Trouser 1,ength [Jnder Arm 1,ength Waist Waist to l lip Waist Circumference Width of Ankle

------. .-. - Awgu 3 Ycars Across Back I3ack Neck io waist Body Rise Chest Elbow Head Circumference [lip Inside 1,eg Over Arm [,engill Shoulder Length Shoulder to Elbow frouser I mgth ,Jnder Arm ILengill Waist Waist to I lip Waist Circumference -Width of Ankle 62

Table 8 Average measurements (in Cm) of 4year old male pre-school

------Variable Surn Stcl deviation - - -.- - 4 Years Across back 587.00 1.2949 Back Neck to waist 640.00 5515 Body Rise 455.00 8 165 Chest 145 1 .OO 8406 Elbow 500.50 7703 I lead Circumference 1299.00 1.2069 I lip 1555.00 3.0000 Inside Leg 1 140.50 .6964 Over Arm Length 949.00 ,7895 Shoulder Length 234.00 2.3784 Shoulder to Elbow 386.50 .4924 Irouser I,englIi 1544.00 1.0520 Under Arm Length 898.00 .7594 Waist 1392.00 1.2819, Waist to I lip 329.00 ,6727 Waist Circ~mference 333.90 ,6063 421 .OO .a000 -Width -- - of Ankle -- - -- 4 ycars Across back 578.00 1.0536 Back Neck to waist 645.40 .6087 Hody Rise 454.00 ,8505 Chest 1452.00 .8124 Elbow 504.00 .6880 head C'ircurnference 1297.00 .I ,0924 Iiip 1561 .00 3.1 102 Inside Leg 1 145.50 1.0693 Over Arm Length 95 1 .oo ,7895 Shoulder Lxngth 25 1 .OO 1.5133 Shoulder to Elbow 385.20 .5722 Trouser Length 1547.00 1.1662 lJnder Arm 1,ength 900.00 ,7638 Waist 1398.00 1.2220 Waist to Hip 329.50 ,6436 Waist Circumference 333.40 ,7047 Width oS Ankle 425.00 .8 165-- Agwu 4 Years Across back 583.00 I. 1804 Back Neck to waist 649.00 ,8406 Body R~se 452.00 .8 124 Chest 1454.00 ,8505 Elbow 499.00 8770 licad Circ~rmference 1302.00 12557 I lip 1504.00 3.6019 lns~deLeg 1 154.00 1.1790 Over Ar m L,engch 946.00 ,9434 Shoulder I ,engill 25 1 .OO 1.7436 Shoulder to Elbow 382.80 ,7043 Trouser I ,ength 1553.00 1.0924 llr~derArm Length 902.00 .8 124 Waist 1398.00 ,9967 Waist to llip 335.00 .so00 Wa~stCirc~rmf'erence 33010 ,6937 W idlh or Ankle 428.00 - ---- ,8327 - - 6 3

Table 9 Average body Measurements (in Cm) for 5year old male pre- school children

---A- -- Age Variables Sum Mean Stcl. --- Deviation 5 years Across Back 724.50 Hack Neck to waist 726.10 Body Rise 522.00 Chest 15 16.00 Elbow 557.00 tlead Circumference l37O.00 Hip 1 674.00 Illside I,eg 1240.00 Over Arm I .englh 973.00 Shoulder 1,ength 284.80 Shoulder to Elbow 455.20 Trouser Length I772.OO Under Arm Length 938.00 Waist l452.OO Waist to I-lip 355.50 Waist Ciircumference 345.00 Width of Ankle - 475.00 5 years Across Back 722.00 Back Neck to waisl 726.00 Body Rise 505.00 Chest 1522.00 Elbow 573 .OO tlead Circumference 1373.00 1 lip 1664.00 Inside I .eg 124 1 .OO Over Arm Lengtli 970.00 Shoulder Length 267.30 Sho111derto Elbow 456.20 'Trouser I.,ength 1773.20 Under Arm Length 64 1 .OO Waist 1486.00 Waist to I-lip 354.00 Waist Circumference 352.30 Width olAnkle 475.00

.--- .------5 Years Across t3ack 685.00 Hack Neck to waist 720.00 Body Rise 528.00 Chest 1518.00 Elbow 578.00 Ileiid Circumference 137 1 .OO tlip 1696.00 Inside Leg I26 1 .OO 3ver Arm Length 993 .oo Shoulder lxngth 300.00 Shoulder to Elbow 450.00 Trouser Length 1672.00 Under Arm Length 940.00 Waist 1465.00 Waist to Hip 353.50 Waist Circumference 355.30 Width ofAnkle 474.00 Research Oilestion 3 How could the basis block patterns for male pre-school children of Enugu State be drafted and standardized? Drafting the Block Patterns and Trueing for Fit and Comfort. 'Ihe average body measurements established from the study (Table 2-9) was used in draliing the block patterns which included the front shirt pattern, the back shirt pattern, front trouser pattern, back trouser pattern and the sleeve pattern. Each of the garment block was drafied following the procedure for drafting them as described in chapter three. Ilsually, the initial patterns obtained in flat pattern drafting ?re not reliable for indicating a perfect fit. A calicoshape (toile) was therefore, used to correct the imperfection or true the patterns in order to obtain a more accurate lit. STANDARDIZING THE PATTERNS: 'l'he standardization was made up of two parts- a. The c~lttingout and assembling of fabric pieces cut from the patterns b. Fitting of shirt, trouser and sleeve and scoring by judges based on an evaluation criterion. Toile Fitting (Shirt) 'The front and baclt shirt patterns were traced out from the front and back shirt master patterns. These pattern pieces were cut out and seam allowance added. The front and back shirt patterns were placed on calico fabric, pinned down firmly and all pattern marks transferred from the paper to the fabric pieces were separated out from paper patterns and necltline and armhole curve stay-stitched to avoid stretching. The front and back shirt were joined at the shoulder and at the under arm seamline using long machine stilch so that thread can be pulled out easily. After stitching the toile was put on a standard figure for corrections. The Toile Fitting (Trouser) l'he trouser patterns, front and back were traced out and se allowances added on the trouser patterns, front and back. The trouser frc and back pattern marks. l'he waistline was stay-stitched and the front and bz waist line darts stitched straight with long machine stitch for easy removal thread, tapering towards the buttocks at the back trouser and stomach at 1

front trouser. The front and back trouser patterns were pinned together 2 stitched loosely at the side seams. Just like the bodice block, the trouser v tried on a standard figure for truing. * Toile Fitting (Sleeve) The master sleeve pattern was traced out on a plain sheet of paper and se( aliowance added. ?'he sleeve pattern was placed on fabric pinned down and I out after transferring pattern marks. The sleeve cap and wrist edges were st: stitched. The under-arm seams were joined together with long machine stit1 The toile was slipped on the standard figure's left arm observing the positi of the li-ont and back armholes. The elbow was bent to check for ease arou elbow. 'The waistline curve was adjusted to fit naturally. The sleeve cap v pinned to the bodice armhole matching the underarm seamline of sleeve a bodice and the bodice shoulder line seam with the centre of the sleeve.

FlTTING AND SCORING BY JUDGES FOR OBTAINING STANDARDIZED MEASUREMENT []sing evaluation criteria chart for models, (Appendix Q), judg evaluated the pattern for fit and comfort. The options in the Assessmc criteria charts were scored 1-5, assigning 1 to the extreme left of t continuilnl 5 to the extreme right. 'This was modeled after (Varney 1980). Satisfactory meant a score within the range of 2.60 to 3.35. all scor below and above this range were considered no appropriate as scores belc the range were taken to mean that the garments are two tight while scor above the range were referred to as "too bogus garments." The mean scores of the j~idgeswho assessed the clothing fit were used for the ha1 corrections on the patterns produced. The scores were arranged according to their age groups as shown in table 10 below.

Table 10 Judges Assessment of clothing fit on male pre-school children. Criteria

- Front neck width Front neck dept Shoulder seam length - .- . - --.------Base across back --- - - . Front chest width Waist line ease 13 1 3.2 1 2.8 Sleeve Arm sleeve dept -- - -- Ease at biceps I I - Sleeve cap fullness 1 3.33 1 3 1 2.7

--- - Trouser Front dart size Front dart length -- Below Waist 1 lip e, se -- - Ease thigh h

-- -- - I -- - -- c.I rouser side seam 12.72 3 -- Them linc --t52.84)3~y------Waist line ease

------, Ease at hip level in front 1 3.4

- - --- 13----- tEi8-- Front chest width 3.32

~ ~~ 1 . ------Waistline placement in back 13 13.33 t3.3 Evidence fiom table 15 above shows a satisfactory judgment as over 85% of their inean scores for the criteria of clothing fit fell within the satisfactory range 01'2.60 - 3.35. Their final judgment of the pattern was used to make some corrections on the pattern to produce a perfect fit pattern for male pre-school children.

Findings The following findings were from the study: 1. 'I'he average body measurements for male pre-school children of 2-5 years of age were established for a1 the body parts that were reqpires for drafting basic block patterns (see tables 2-9 above) 2. It is noted that the widest distribution of values wee found in the chest, waist of 53.9 cin for 2 year olds to a mean of 60.7cin for the 5 ycar olds. For the waist, the range is from a mean of 3.79cm for 2 year olds to a mean of 58.6~1~1for the 5 years and 5 years of age respectively, indicating that measurement increases wit11 age (See table 2-5 above) 3. Evidence from the study shows that the variations in the mean body measurements of the subjects were lowest in shoulder length and wrist measurements. 'The inean 01- the shoulder length ranged from 6.9~1~1for 2 year olds to mean of 11.7cin for 5 year olds. While the wrist measurements ranged from a mean of 1 1.7cn1 for 2 year olds to a mean of 14cm for 5 year olds (See tables 2-5 above). 4. The average rating of the clothing fit by the judges were 85% with a

range of 2.60-3.35. The scores were interpreted inlply satisfactory fit. , 5. The models also found the garments comfortable to wear. 6. At pre-schools age, children from both rural and urban areas seem to have no difference in their body built. DISCUSSION OF FINDINGS Pattern usage. Ebenezer Buttcrick in (1 863) in United Statcs ol' Arneric invented the usage of pattern in clothing construction. Sincc then, pattc has been in practice. Pattern making is being guided by a lot of theor with emphasis on the following: ;high quality production, cl~cclting fig1 problems, saving time economy encouraging cluatively, sell confidence i easy alterations, (Liddell 1981). All these theories were mcl in this st^ Children garments can not be produced pcrl'ectly without pattern usa

Using pattern pieces in production of children's ganncnl savcs hime and , gives a high quality product as it will help to check cvcu children w figure problems (Aniltweze 2004). '['his conlims the obscrv~ltionof Aldr (1999) that the use of pattern in garment production givcs ~-oomfor ez alteration. Body measurement of malc pre-school children. The first research question in this study was to hclout those pa of the body that are supposed to be mcasured lo prouidc data establishing average body n~eas~rrcment.I'ablc 1 has thc accepted bo parts that were appropriate for this study. According to Anikweze (200 accurate measurement ol- appropriate body parts is tllc beginning perfection in garment productibn. rIhc 7 body parts thul have be considered very essential and needed for pattcrn tlraliing and clothi construction are-bust, waist and hip (Iloeje 1995). Other mcasuremel needed in addition are shoulder length, shoulder width, front waist leng back waist length, among others. Cock (1981), Ossai (2003), Igbo a Iloeje (2003), and Anyakoha and Ilocje (2003), emphasi~cdtllc need to ta accurate body measurements. The second research qucstion centred on cstahlishing avera body measurement ol'the male 131-e-schoolchildrcn. Alicr acccpling the body parts, measurements were taken on those body parts li-om male p school children from ages 2-5. Mean of each body parts measured were established. The established mean which was the average measurement of each body parts were used in the drafting of the bloclc pattern. rI 7 his established average body measurenient is in line with the prescription of Aldrich (1999) but it was observed that there are slight differences in average measurement of pre-school children here in Nigeria with their counter parts in European countries. This supports the study carried out by Ashburn (1 980) which found out that differences between the chineese children and those of Africa and Europe origin amounted to about seven centimeters and this were due to genetic influences. @ The third research question related to how basic block patterns for male pre-school could be drafied and standardized. Pattern drafting methods according to lgbo and Iloeje (2003) include-modeling or drapping method, l

against while measuring - not to measure too tightly IIowever, despite some of these little errors in the alterations, the assessments of the judges gave mean scores that imply satisfactory garment patterns by the researcher.

NY POTHESIS There were no significant differences in the mean body measurements for chest, waist and hips of male pre-school children of both rural and urban

' areas at 0.05 level of significance. This was shown by the one way analysis of variance and so led to the acceptance of the null hypothesis.

Table 11: 17-ratio analysis on some parts (chest, waist and hip) for Rural and Urban male pre-school children, Oneway ANOVA Sum of Mean Sig. squares square Where do you Between 1 16.028 29.007 Live? Groups

Within 253.330 -862 Groups

Total 369.358

The table 11 above shows that at pre-schools age, children from both rural and urban areas seem to have no difference in their body built. CHAPTER FlVE SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATTONS This chapter gives a summary oS the study, highlights the implications oft findings draws some conclusions and makes suggestions ibr li~rtherresearch. Re-statement of problem Patterns have also been found to enhance garment production. T tailors and seamstresses still depend on taking oS individual bol measurements of customers whenever they want to construct a garment. It obviously difficult to satisfy the large demand for clotl~ingby this low a1 # outdated construction procedure. 'This study therefore aimed at establishi~ average body measurement and developing inaster patterns to meet t clothing needs for male pre-school children wl~ichcannot bc produced witha average body measurements. Procedure Used:

The population for the study comprised all the male pre-school children in ; the government approved nursery and day care ccntres in lhqu state Nigeria and all registered dress~nalters/tailorsin Ilnugu state. I'roportionz sampling was used to select 3 zones out of six educational zoncs in Enu, State. The subjects sample of three hundred male pre-school children a 3 8dressmakers/tailors in EIILI~LIState were used. Stluct red qucstioi~nairewe used to collect data for research question 1 from drcssmaltcrs/tailors who we experts in sewing children garments. The instrument of the study- a body measurement chart (BMC) w developed by the researcher through literature review. 'l'he instrulne comprised two sections, one section is on the background inSol-ination subjects and the other section on essential body ~ncasurcmcntnccded for fl pattern drafting. The method of statistical iinalysis and information used in answering the research questions and hypothesis 'were descriptive statistics, T-Test cross- stabs and One way ANOVA. Hypothesis was tested at 0.05 level of significance. Principal Findings The mean body measurements of the subjects on all the body parts needed for drafting basic garment patterns were established (see table 3-5). Variations in the mean body lneasurements of the suhccts were highest in the chest, waist and hips measurement but lowest in shoulder length and # wrist measurements. There was no significant difserences in the mean body measurements for chest, waist and hips of male pre-school children of both rural and urban areas at 0.05 level of significance. Block patterns were developed for the target group. Implications of the Study The findings of this study have implications [or clothing and textile lecturers in tertiary institutions who have the task of teaching pattern development to their students. The patterns that are developed will be utilized in teaching style adaptations as they can be manipulated into a wick variety of styles. The findings of this study also have implications for professional tailors/dressmakers particularly those who are ltnowlcdgcable in the use of commercial patterns which are no longer readily available. I3y making garments from the trued patterns. They are more likely to producc better fitting garments. The findings of this study have implications for home sewers who may need to improve the fit of garments they nlalce. In absence of commercial paiterns, the basic pattcrns developed becomes a better alkrnalivc for sewing for male pre-school children. The findings of the study have implications Sor garment making business and fashion houses particularly for quantity production and better fitting garments. When these patterns are eventually coinmcrcialized they will certainly go into !age scale production and the garment making business will flourish. The findings of this study have implications lbr cnlrcpreneurs in clothing and textile business who may want to expand their businesses from # tailoring to commercial pattesn malting, garment alteration, grading, modeling and all such related businesses. For the Nigeria government, the findings oE this study will serve as a basis for funding fut~~reresearches in pattern malting and pattern development for the Nigerian figure.

Conclusion. From the study, patterns were discovered to he thc basic necessities in the construction of perfectly fitted garments. They are quite valuable for large scale production. Clothing and textile lecturers need master patterns to teach their students basic and advanced pattern alteration as well as grading so that standardized basic bloclts can be used in constructing garments lor figures that have larger or sinaller clinlensions than the standard figure. Students offering courses in clothing and textile as well as l~oineinalters knowledgeable in the use of commercial patterns will use this master patterns into a wide variety of styles. With the use of patterns also, individuals with basic sewing knowledge with even primary school level of education can turn out nicely filled garments for oneself and for the family members. They can perSorm quite well as employees in garment factories. Recommendations Based on the lindings of the study the following recoinmendations were made: rrv~lF ,a'#1Ca lp*. 1. Students of clotl-ring and textile in the higher institutions shoilld be provided with the mean body ineasurements obtained fiom this sti~dyto help them in their pattern drafiing courses. 2. 1,ecturers of clothing and 'Textile in the 1ertiai.y institutions should utilize the masfer pattern developed in this study in teaching their stirdents pateern developinent and alterations. 3. Data obtained fi-om this study should serve as a basis for further tesearch in pattern malting and development for the Nigerian figure. 4. The block patterns developed is recommended for use by professional tailors involved in mass production and also to obtain better garment fit. Aldrich W:. (1 999), Metric I'attern cutting for children's wear and baby wear U.S.A, Blackwell Science Ltd

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Zamkoff. T. Price .G. (1 990) Standard processes in drcssrnal

KevA -- .- - ( -7~eadCrrcurnference 1 I H~i- -- .- .-. - -. - . - Half Length .-~-- -- -~ . 1

Over arm length - TL Trouser length

--- ~ ~ APPENDIX B. BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCt1001. CHILDREN IN ENUGU ZONE (MMT IN CM) _ _.. . .._ _. _...._--._-_I_--._ Trous~ -~ ~.. Bodice -- Sleeve 1 2 3 4 5 67-8 9 10_11 12 13 24- 15 3 -SIN .. ~- -- SHL Chest Waist JHlC HL AIR WIH UIL- RA SIE EXOWO~L -Hip TTI/I -~ ,=.

~ 68 20 5( .. -.1 - 62 61 55 30.5 30 14 39 15 19 24 40 -. '5

2 6 1 60 56 29 29 14.2 -38 14 .- 19 24 40 .68 22 70 5' ~ -. ------. . ------60 el 55 - 28.8 36 13.2 18 23 39 _ 60 21 3 -- - - 2914.2. - 71'5' --4 - 62 61 . .. . 55 28.2 28 2 36 13 18 -- 22 -- 38 60 - 20 70 4t 5 - 61 ---60 56 29.5 28 14 37 14 18.2 22 38 64 20 70 4t

40 - 68 22 72 '5'

~ .. -Kg- HC .. - Head Circumference .

.. HL Half Length AIB . Across back WIH Waist to hip UIL Under arm length .. ~ -RA - -- - Round arm

. SIE Shoulder to elbow OAlL Ovgr arm Bth

.-BR .-. -- - - Body rise TL Trouser length .- - WIA-- Width of Ankle . MMT --- Measurement .- .-~- APPENDIX C BODY MEASIJREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL C;HII.DREN IN AWGU ZONE (MMT IF

Kev

~

Shoulder to elbow

- Body rise -. --. .

--- - - ~ - APPENDIX D BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL CHII-DREN IN NSUKKA ZONE (MMT IN CM)

Kev

- ~ ---- ~~z-~alf-- Length - -I - - Across-- back--

I UIL I Under arm lenath I I RA 1 Round arm 1 - FiLpzleah Shoulder to elbow 1

TL Trouser length - - -. . ---- WIA Width of Ankle - ~~ -.

MMT Measurement~ .. APPENDIX E BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN IN NAWGU ZONE (MMT IN

Bodice Trouser

-Kev -- -.-- ~eadCircumference 1 APPENDIX F BODY MEASUREMENTS OF P4AI.E PRE-SCHOOL CI-iILDREN IN ENUGU ZONE (MMT IN CM) - _ _ __ -__------__._._--__.-.I_____. 7---- - Bodice I Sleeve I Trouser

- .-I<_ey_ - - Head Circumference --HC ------.-HL -- Half Length------A/B Across back - -

W/H Walst to h~p ---- U/L - Under arm-- leah-- --

. R--A Round arm S/E - - - .- Shoulder to elbow--- - - OA/L-. Over arm lengh ---- . ------

BR Body rlse - - Trouser length TL------

- W/A Wldth of Ankle MMT Measurement _ -- - APPENDIX G BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL Ct-IIL..DREM IN NS'JKKA ZONE (MMT IN

lice Sleeve ...... -1 _.-T--rouse -33Cheg Waist HIS--;

.. .. -...... Kev-- L- HC Head Circumference 1 --HL Half Le@

All3 -- Across---. back -...... WIH Waist to hip .. - .. - - -- - .- - Under arm length

. - BR. APPENDIX H: BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MAE PRE-SCHOOL CIiIL.DREJ\i IN ENUGU ZONE (MMT IN c PJl) Bodice

Kev Head Circumference ------Half Length

Round arm

-- -

BR -IBodv rise -

Trouser length- - - -- .- Width of Ankle -- ~

.. -- ..... --- ...... APPENDIX I: BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN IN AWGU ZONE (MMT IN CM)

. ------_ - 1 Bodice I Sleeve I Trouser

- --IL_~ Head Circumference - - - -. /IF4 Half Lenath

.. --- .. -Under-- arm -- length .- - - 1 t Round arm [ISTI-- Shoulder to elbow

--

------Trouser length -- APPENDIX J: BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN IN NSUKKA ZONE (MMT IN CM) Bodice Sleeve ., ~..-* ,. ---3--T-nT- - - Trouser .. ------. --7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 HL t Chest t~aist~IC 1 HL WIH UIL RA SIE Elbow OAIL Hip BR TIL IIL WIA 9 30 11 12 17 32 53 15 57 40 14 9 30 11 13.5 16 32 54 15.2 57 40 14

-- 9 I30 Ill 1 13 1 18 1 i3 125 1 'll 157 I40.2I 9 130 111 113 / 18 57 40.4 'll

2 YEARS OLD Kev

( HL 1 Half Length J Across back

Round arm

Shoulder to ~elbow

~ Body rise ------APPENDIX K: BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN IN ENUGU ZONE (MMT IN CM)

1 . -- 2 -SHL Chest 7 ~ .-----

... -.7 ...... 6 ~

-. .... 6

...... 7

---8 ... 8

Kev - 1- :+~qHalf Length Across back ------

I Round arm I

I Bodv rise I Trouser length

-- APPENDIX L: BODY MEASUREMENTS OF MALE PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN IN AWGU ZONE (MMT IN CM)

IHC--,H'.--Kev ead C~rcumference 1 HL Half Length

------___- -A_- Under arm length

Round arm --

Trouser length Width of Ankle API'ENDIX M

Department of Vocational Teacher Edwation University or Nigeria Nsuklca

ESTABLISHMENT OF AVERAGE BODY MEASUIIl

I am a postgraduate student in the department of Vocational Teacher

Education of the University of Nigeria Nsultka. I am carrying out a research study on the above topic.

Information provided by you will be useful in this work. Every information will be treated conlldei~tially,ltindly supply all the information required by you.

Thanks for your co-operation

I

Yours sincerely

Agbo Calista Nwamaka APPENDIX N

Dcpartmcnt of Vocational Tcachcr. Education University of Nigeria, Nsukka 29-2-05

Your assistance is highly needed in the conduct of a research designed to establish average body measurement tobe used in drafting basic block patterns for male pre-school children in Enugu Statc. Below are body parts suggested by the researcher. Put a check (x) in the # column which represents your j~rdginentregarding each body part. Agbo Calista .N. I'G/Med/02/32779.

RESPONSE ~odyparts -/Vel-yappraprialc-)AppropriafeIUnXecided- Inappropriate I Very in .. Shoulder length -1 Head circumference--1-

-- -. Across back -. -- Waist to Hip -- Underarm length 1 -1 1- Wrist circumference -- -- Shoulder to elbow .. I- ...... +. -- .... Overarm length Body rise (crotch) -. - Trouser length .- - Inside leg -- - - Width of ankle ...... Hip ......

Waist -- -...... -- ...~~ .. Chest I I I I -- .- Elbow length 1-1-- -r- .. Arm circumference -- .-~.. .. . APPENDIX 0 Department orVocational Teacher Education Univcrsi ty of Nigeria, Nsultka

ESTABLISI3MENT OF AVERAGE BODY MKASUREMENTS AND BASIC BLOCK PATTERNS FOR MALE 1'RE-SC11OOL CIlILDREN IN ENUGU STATIC I am a postgraduate studcnt in the department of Vacational Teacher Education of the IJniversity ol' Nigeria, Nsultlta. I am carrying out a research study on the above topic. Information provided by you will be uscfi~l in this work. Every information will be treated confidentially, kindly supply all the information required by you. Thanks for your co-operation.

Yours sinccrcly

Agbo Cnlista Nwamaka APPENDIX P

Department of Vocational Teacher Education (I lome Economics) University oS Nigeria Nsuklta

Sir/ Madam,

VALIDATION OF EVALIJATION C

The attached score sheet otherwise called Evaluation Criteria Chart has been designed for assessing the clothing lit of dress patterns developed Tor inale pre- school children. Your views are requested !'or validating this research instrument as appropriate for the purpose it was designed.

Kindly rate each itan on the 13valuation Criteria ('hart in ~C'IIIISoS relevance for judging clothing fit for male prc-school chilciren using thc three-point scale Validation Table as follows: 3= Very Relevant 2= Relevant 0 1= Irrelevant 0 any other useful suggestions Sol. iinproving the instrument will be highly appreciated.

Thank you for your co-operrd t'1017. Agbo Calista. N.

IYYMed/02/ 32779 APPENDIX Q 13dy ~ncasurementchart

Height --

Shoulder length - -

Waist ---

Hip/Seat - -

Head Circumferei~ce --

Over arm length - ..-.---A-

Under arm length -- -- .---- -.- - -.

Wrist circumference -- - C Shoulder to elbow --

Elbow (round) ---

Body rise (crotch) -

Trouser length ------. -.

Inside leg. ------

Width of Ankle (Tro~iserbottom width) - -- Back neck to waist (half length back fiom neck to waist) Waist to hip - Across back

SUBJECT'S BACKGROUND , 1. How old are you? 2-3 years() , 3-4 years )I , 4-5 years ( 2. Where are you Tromr?~sukkan, Awgu 1-1, 1':nugul-1 LA - 3. Where do you live? Rural Area rl,ilrban - ~rcarl - 4. What is your daddy's occupation? A hrmcrl 1, A tcacherl I,

.. .- 5. What is your mummy's occupation? A fh-~nerr I, A teacher I LJ I A petty tradcrrl , A Nurse [ APPENDIX R EVALUATION CRITERIA CIIART FOR JlJ1)GES TOPIC: ESTABLISHMENT OF AVERAGE BODY MEASUREMENTS AND DRAFTING OF' BASlC BLOCK PATTERNS FOR MALE PRE-SCHOOL CHILDREN IN ENUGU STATE The following items are designed Sor the evaluatioll of prototype garmeni patterns for male pre-school children. Kindly score the clothing fit with all objectivity by writing the number against your chosen response in the box provided along the card column. Note that in terms of interpretation* with reference to clothing fit, options 1& 2 have similar meanings as options 5&4 respectively as they denote degrees of unfit garmcnt.

SHIRT CRITERIA OPTIONS CAIW COLUMN I. Front neck width: 1 Much too narrow 2 Slightly too narrow 3 Salisl*xtory 4 Slighlly too wide 5 Much too wide

2. Front neck dept: I. Much too high 2 Slighl loo high 3 Satislhctory 4 Slightly 130 low 5 MLICIItoo low

3. Shoulder seam length: 1 Mucli too short 2 Sliglitly too short 3 Satisl'actory 4 Slightly too long 5 Much too long

4. Front chest width: I MLICIItoo narrow 2 Sligl~llytoonarrow 3 SalisI'actory 4 Slighlly loo widc 5 Mucl~too wide 5. Waist line ease: 1 Much too little ease 2 Slightly too little ease 3 Sat is factory 4 Slightly too much ease 5 Much too much ease 6. Back bodice waist line length Mirch too small Slightly too small Satisl:dctory Slight too large M~lchtoo large 7. depth: Much too high Slightly too high Satis firctory Slight too low Much too low 8. Ease at biceps

Much too tight Slightly too tight Satisf'actory Slight too loose Much too loose 9. Sleeve cap fullness Much too little Slightly too tight Satisfactory Slight too loose Much too loose GARMENT TROUSER 10. Front dart size: I Much too small Slightly too small Satisfactory Slight too large Much too large 1 1. Front dart length: Much too short Slightly too short Sat isfiictory Slight too long Much too large

12. Hip ease 3" below waist: 1 Much too tight 2 Slightly too light 3 Satisfktory 4 Slight too loose 5 Much too loose 13. Ease at thigh level: 1 Much too tight 2 Slightly too tight 3 Satislhctory 4 Slight too loose 5 Much too loose 14. Trouser side seam curve: 1 Mtrcli too straight 2 Slightly too straight 3 Satisfactory

4 Slight too curved (+ 5 ' Much too curved 1 5. 'Trouser side scam: 1 Much loo Iar forward 2 1 langs slightly too far forward 3 Satisl'actory --- 4 Ilang slight too fi~rb~k L -2 5 1 langs ~nuchtoo far back 16. Hem line: 1 1 langs much too low in front 2 I langs slightly low in front 3 Sa(isli~ctory 4 I langs slightly low in back r-1 5 I lnngs much too low in back 17. Waist line ease: 1 Much too little ease 2 Slighlly too little ease 3 Satislhctory 4 Slight too much ease 5 Much too much ease 18. Ease at hip level in front: I Mucll too light 3 u Slightly too tight 3 Satislitctory 4 Slight too loose 5 Much too loose 19. Ease at hip level in back: 1 Much too tight 2 Sliglitly too tight 3 Satishclory 4 Slight too loose 5 MLICIItoo loose 20. Front chest width: 1 MLIC~Itoo narrow 2 Slightly too narrow 3 Sa1isl;lctory 4 Slight too wide 5 Much too sloped.

2 I. Ease across shoulder blades in back: 1 Much too little ease 2 Slightly too little ease @ 3 Sntisf'actory 4 Sligl~tloo much easc LJ 5 Much too much easc

22. Waistline placelncnt in back: 1 MLICIItoo high 2 Slightly too high 3 Satishictory 4 Slight too large 5 Muchtoolarge

! Moasurir~gupper body parts (2)

1-7 - waisl

Moesurlr~glower body pnrfs

I)" 4 (\ j