“Bo and Back” a Diary by Colin Mcallister
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“To Bo and Back” A Diary by Colin McAllister (Graduate University of Warwick) July-August 1981 CONTENTS Introduction Maps Diary Conclusion Appendix 1 Appendix 2 INTRODUCTION Bo is a town of about 50,000 people in Sierra Leon which in turn has a population around 3, 5 million and which borders with Guinea and Liberia on the West Africa coast; from this region most of the slaves that were taken to England and America originated and to this region some of them returned 200 years ago. The repatriated slaves bore the English names that their masters had given them and even today most of the Krios who live in the coastal region around the capital, Freetown, have kept their English names; Bo, on the other hand, is the capital of the Southern Province of the country which is populated mostly the Mende tribe and which has maintained many of its ancient traditions and customs. The origins of the name Sierra Leon date back to the late fifteenth century when Portuguese sailors baptized the region Serra da Leon ( The Lion Mountains) because the rumbling thunder in the impressive mountain range on the coast reminded them of roaring lions. Sierra Leon gained its independence in 1961 under Sir Milton Margai and on his death his brother Albert succeeded him until 1967 when he was defeated in the general election by the leader of the opposition Siaka Stevens; a brief period of military rule followed before Albert Margai surrendered power to his rival who was acclaimed as a national hero full of grandiose promises. In 1971 the country became a republic and in 1978 a one-party state under the eternal President, Siaka Stevens whose term of office is due to be renewed in 1985; elections for a new Parliament, or rather “ selections”, have already been postponed a few times but are promised for the end of this year. I first became interested in Sierra Leon through my studies of Economics and Politics at Warwick University where I completed my degree course this year; subsequently I discovered that the nearby town of Leamington Spa wished to link with the town of Bo, and when it became clear that I could help the link and it could help me, my mind was made up to go. I had hoped that my University would assist me financially to carry out some studies in the region since each year it distributes a few grants for such purpose. Unfortunately at the final stage of selection I was told by a Professor of Biochemistry that in his opinion it would be far more sensible to send the money directly to the country rather than give it to me so in the end neither of those things was done. Such an attitude, namely that all problems can be bought off and solved with money, has done as much harm as good to Third World countries, and I hope this view which is still predominant among the majority of those who live in “ developed” countries will rapidly be made to change. Having borrowed the money necessary for my trip, I went to extreme lengths to find the cheapest route between Milan, where I live, and Freetown, with the result that I flew from Milan to Lagos via Sofia at a student rate with Balkan Airlines and on from there to Freetown on a normal flight. I set off on July 17th and returned on September 15th 1981, and during the whole of that period I kept a diary which on my return I typed out with virtually no modifications. The only addresses I had in my pocket when I left were those of 2 people in Bo ( to whom I had written to ask their help in finding me somewhere to live during my stay), and of the various missions of the Xaverian Fathers in Sierra Leone: these names and addresses were to prove extremely valuable, and I would like to express my deep gratitude to all those whom I met and who helped me during my 7 weeks in the country. Finally I would like to thank Jane Knight, Secretary of the One World Link in Leamington Spa, and Ian Campbell and Peter Burnell, 2 Lecturers of Politics at Warwick University, who between them introduced me to Sierra Leone and gave me moral support in getting “to Bo and Back” on my own. The following is a brief outline of the One World Link which is a venture I‟m sure is destined to succeed. Background. Throughout the 1970‟s there was an increasing awareness of the increasing gap between the rich western world and the poor “Third World” now popularly known as the North and South. This awareness grew at the same time as people in Britain were being told that they were getting poorer. There are many books and documents which describe the desperation of millions in the developing world. However, it was found by the small number of groups in Britain who were trying to awaken the public to this desperation that they were up against a barrier of ignorance. The whole of our education system tends to ignore the rest of the world, and because the need for change strikes at our life styles and at the foundations of our economic system, most people in our society prefer to remain ignorant of the situation. Various organizations have long existed which take an interest in the Third World; however, experience has shown that the best way of understanding the culture and life styles of people in other parts of the world is by getting to know them personally and visiting their homes. The foundation of the One World Link In October 1979, Frank Judd, a former Minister of State in the Foreign office, addressed a One World meeting in Leamington Spa, and his urgent plea was to take notice of the need for change in order to promote justice in the world. This led to the suggestion that a town or district link with an equivalently sized community in the Third World should be established and volunteers were asked to form a committee to investigate the possibilities. Throughout 1980 various activities took place and research into existing Third World links was made. In fact only 2 others in the country have survived (neither large scale) and only 2 out of 900 recorded twinning are known to have been with Third World countries. The criteria used for choosing an area were that it should: a) be within reasonable distance of the U.K b) have English as a main language c) match approximately in size and population d) have a low Gross Domestic Product per capital e) have some current contacts living there. The Bo Region of Sierra Leone was finally chosen on the recommendation of Michael Harris, the Overseas Director of OXFAM. The next task was to seek approval from the local community and on October 24th 1980 the One World Link between Warwick District and the Bo Region was launched in the presence of the High Commissioner of Sierra Leone and local dignitaries as well as doctors, teachers and other members of the community. Aims The aim of the OWL is to give a better mutual understanding of the hopes, fears and problems of the two vastly different communities. The understanding will be promoted by exchanging visits, correspondence, and by talks and exhibitions in the two countries. The main emphasis will be on contact of ordinary people with each other in the home and in the work place. It is proposed to further these contacts through schools and hospitals as well as churches and businesses and the foundations have been laid for a fruitful and lasting link. A crucial task will be to break down myths and misinformation on both sides and to establish an area of common interest that with time can be widened; to achieve this goal certain realism will be necessary so that from modest, unambitious and unspecified beginnings the great potential for mutual communication will be exploited to the full. Although contact between the 2 communities will be the priority it is also hoped that medicines and school books will be sent to Bo and perhaps local produce such as Gara cloth could be sent to Leamington; as long as a direct link between the two towns can be maintained the usual risks involved in sending aid and contributions to Ministry in Freetown will not be run”. ---------------------------------------------- Emphasis throughout has been placed on the word “link” rather than “Twinning” because the fundamental aim is for a new line of communication to be established and because. “The Art of Awareness is identifying yourself with the hopes, dreams, fears and longings of others. It is learning to interpret their thoughts, feelings and moods. It is keeping mentally alert to all that goes on around you: it is being curious, observant, and imaginative, that you may build an ever increasing fund of knowledge of the universe. It is striving to stretch the range of eye and ear; it is taking time to look and listen and comprehend.” (Wilfred A. Peterson) ---------------------------------------------- Colin McAllister, 24th October 1981 MAPS 18.7 Arrived yesterday Sofia: airport extremely small just one building but people extremely helpful- arranged transport to luxury hotel all paid for by the airline ( I have to wait 30 hours for connection to Lagos) During the first meal we even had wine which we were supposed to pay for but none would take our money. I met up with two Nigerians who might help me on my way back through Lagos: initial difficulties understanding each other, partly because they switch in and out of their own language so you stop listening then you suddenly notice they‟re asking you something in English, I‟ll get used to it no doubt.