2019 ANNUAL REPORT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The Global Mountain Network 4 Mountain Protection 65
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 4 SAFETY 76
President’s Message 7 Mountain Medicine 76
The UIAA in 2019 11 Mountain Safety 82
MEMBERSHIP & ORGANISATION 22 Mountaineering 89
THE GLOBAL MOUNTAIN NETWORK 2019 UIAA Membership Information 23 Training 96
Review 2019: UIAA General Assembly 31 SPORT 101
UIAA Strategy Process 37 Competition Ice Climbing 102
Financial Results 2019 39 International Skyrunning Federation 114
UIAA Office Report 48 Anti-Doping 118
Communication 55 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award 122
Sponsoring & Partners 61 Youth 127
SUSTAINABILITY 64 CONTINENTAL BODIES 132
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UIAA MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE MEMBERS As confirmed by the UIAA General Assembly (November, 2019) THE GLOBAL MOUNTAIN Executive Board Frits VRIJLANDT (President), Netherlands Zoljargal BANZRAGCH (Vice President), Mongolia NETWORK Lode BECKERS (General Secretary), Belgium Peter MUIR (Treasurer), Canada Helène DENIS, France Mahmood HASHEMI, Iran The International The UIAA, supported by over 150 volunteers, promotes the growth and protection of Yongfeng WANG, China Climbing and mountaineering and climbing worldwide by: Largest Federation Representatives • preserving their spirit and traditions Mountaineering Juan Garrigos i TORO, Spain • advancing safe and ethical mountain practices Francoise JAQUET, Switzerland Federation (UIAA) was • promoting responsible access, culture and environmental protection Josef KLENNER, Germany • supporting youth participation and the Olympic movement founded in 1932 and has Continental Representatives Africa: Greg MOSELEY, South Africa The UIAA fulfils its Mission Statement mainly through the work of its Commissions, which make Asia: Christine PAE, Korea a global presence on six recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the international mountaineering Central and South America: Martin LASCANO, Argentina community. UIAA Commissions are comprised of experts in their field. continents representing Europe: Anne ARRAN, United Kingdom Oceania: Stuart GRAY, New Zealand The UIAA operates through the following Commissions: Anti-Doping, Ice Climbing, Medical, 89 member associations North America: Peter MUIR, Canada (interim) Mountaineering (including Access & Training), Mountain Protection, Safety and Youth. theuiaa.org/members Representative Members and federations in 66 Further Reading: theuiaa.org/about This document is best viewed Simon ALDEN, Malta countries. in a digital format. To view or Amit CHOWDHURY, India download the document online Jochem DRIESSEN, Netherlands please scan the QR code. Georges ELZIERE, France Reza ZAREI, Iran
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PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE Dear member associations, partners and friends of the UIAA,
We are delighted to present you with the 2019 Annual Report. This document – available both in digital and print format – provides a valuable insight into the dedicated work of UIAA Commissions, our collaboration with partners and member associations, the current strategic direction of the UIAA, the role of the federation as the global network for climbing and mountaineering and the numerous benefits provided to UIAA members.
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Our key gathering in 2019 was the UIAA 2021 MPAs, will add even greater exposure to Our desire is to further strengthen the UIAA to dedicated each and every day. I take this opportunity to thank all our General Assembly in Larnaca, Cyprus which was the work showcased as part of this magnificent become the global platform for all aspects of volunteers who with the support of the Office have ensured that the UIAA project. In 2019, the Commission also climbing and mountaineering. This can only be expertly hosted by the Cyprus Mountaineering has made tremendous progress over the past twelve months. spearheaded the UIAA’s first Carbon Footprint achieved by working together. Addressing our Climbing & Orienteering Federation. Report and a produced a statement on Climate main concerns as a collective is essential whether Finally, 2020 marks the final year of my Presidency. It has been Change. The topic of climate change is a hugely related to free access, mountain protection, As communicated during the GA, the UIAA an honour and privilege to serve an organisation close to my significant subject at present. The UIAA has a the development of mountaineering, youth continues to represent the interests of its heart. One thing that remains clear is that there is very much a longstanding history as a major player in the engagement and promoting training and safe WELCOME MESSAGE BY members on a global scale through close need for the UIAA as a global organisation. We must continue combat against global warming. practices. to strive to work harder, address the concerns and promote the partnerships with numerous major organisations FRITS VRIJLANDT including the IOC, departments of the United The UIAA leads the way in climber safety The UIAA also lobbied on a number of subjects needs of our members and to reposition the UIAA as a progressive UIAA President Nations and Sport Accord. through the work of both its Safety Commission including the issues surrounding the 2019 and modern organisation of the 21st century. I am proud of the work we have all achieved, together, and am positive that our new Throughout this report you will read numerous (SafeCom) and Medical Commission (MedCom). Everest climbing season and proposals to build UIAA PRESIDENTS enthusiastic Board Members – elected at the recent GA – will examples of the outstanding work spearheaded In 2019, significant time and resources have a cableway on Kilimanjaro. embrace this philosophy. 1932–1964 Count Charles Egmond d’Arcis by our Commissions and the progress made in been invested by SafeCom into anchor 1965–1968 Edouard Wyss-Dunant key areas. corrosion testing. The UIAA family is made up of a number To this end, dialogue is essential. The UIAA is always available to you, its 1968–1972 Albert Eggler of talented and dedicated people who give members. We will continue to serve you and your interests. Jean Juge Led by the work of the Mountain Protection The 2018-2019 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, 1973–1976 Pierre Bossus Commission, who celebrated its half century in partnered by Outdoor Research, was the largest valuable time and expertise to the federation, 1976–1984 Yours in climbing and mountaineering, 1985–1989 Carlo Sganzini 2019, both the Mountain Protection Award and and most viewed to date. Meanwhile, the UIAA all because they believe in the organisation Pietro Segantini the revamped Respect the Mountains campaign Global Youth events continue to thrive with 1990–1995 and what it represents. A significant amount Ian McNaught-Davis continue to go from strength to strength. six events held in Europe and Asia helping to 1995–2004 2004–2005 Alan Blackshaw The partnership recently announced with a encourage and educate the next generation of of volunteer time across the Executive Board, 2005-2006 Pierre Humblet (acting) prestigious sponsor, Bally, for the 2020 and mountain enthusiasts. Management Committee and Commissions is 2007–2011 Mike Mortimer 2011-2012 Jordi Colomer (acting) 2012– Frits Vrijlandt
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Executive Review THE UIAA IN 2019 A year delivering diverse projects, initiatives and events at the UIAA witnessed significant activity across the federation’s three pillars of safety, sport and sustainability, thanks to the endeavours of its Commissions, Management Committee, Executive Board and Office based in Bern.
Highlights include the UIAA’s increased commitment of the UIAA’s first Carbon Footprint Calculation as to global advocacy and supporting causes of well as the organisation being recognised by the concern to its member associations, the evolution IOC for its commitment to sustainability. The UIAA of the Mountain Protection Award and Respect the also continues to promote and lead the way in the Mountains projects, the continued success, and issue of safety standards, where the current focus is record breaking figures enjoyed by the UIAA World dedicated to anchor corrosion research. While a new Ice Climbing Tour. strategy is developed in 2020, the UIAA will continue Given its current resonance, a particular highlight to deliver tangible benefits to its members, and act has been the UIAA’s commitment and focus on on the valuable feedback received from delegates the topic of climate change, with the publication during the 2019 General Assembly. Stock Library
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JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH ANCHOR CORROSION PROJECT GATHERS MOMENTUM RECORD CROWDS IN DENVER NEW FOCUS FOR RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS The year began with the publication of details related to the climbing and bouldering opportunities which can be enjoyed within The UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour concluded with an exhilarating advancements made by the UIAA Safety Commission in terms of the country. event in Denver which was watched by record breaking crowds. The month began with applications opening for the UIAA’s Mountain their anchor corrosion project. This included the publication of a Google The 25,000 fans who attended the two-day event represent Rock Climbing Festival Protection Award. Since 2013, the initiative has showcased 106 Map of known corrosion locations. Applications opened for the 2019 UIAA not only the largest ever in the World Tour’s history but also Award projects from over 30 countries. The platform has enabled initiatives to with a focus on the promotion of events in Asia. The Award make it one of the most well-spectated climbing events of all Commission members and external experts have invested significant receive international recognition and much-needed funding. offers 2,500 USD in prize money as well as the opportunity to work time. The overall World Tour winners were Maria Tolokonina time and resources into collecting data from climbers and running closely with the UIAA and benefit from the expertise of its different (RUS, women’s lead), Ekaterina Koshcheeva (RUS, women’s The 2019 UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships were held in Oulu, analysis of samples of faulty anchors. The map provides an informative Commissions. speed), Nikolai Kuzovlev (RUS, men’s lead) and Anton Nemov Finland. Winners included Swiss athletes Yannick Glatthard and Sina Goetz, guide and reference point for climbers as to the known current (RUS, men’s speed). who took their impressive World Tour form into the Youth Championships location of where corrosion has been logged. To aid this research, The UIAA published the latest in its line of articles promoting claiming lead gold in the U22 age group. A total of 84 athletes from ten a dedicated form has been made available for climbers to share MedCom’s high-altitude Medical Papers - focusing on information During January and early February, representatives of the UIAA countries competed across three categories. information regarding corrosion and failed anchors. related to pre-existing medical conditions. The paper paid particular visited both the Asian and European editions of the annual ISPO attention to a number of specific conditions, ranging from respiratory trade shows. Mountain protection was the focus of the UIAA’s visit Meanwhile, the UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships were held in Kirov, The 2019 UIAA Ice Climbing Tour began in earnest with a World Cup issues such as chronic bronchitis and other lung conditions. to ISPO Munich. Russia. Nikolai Kuzovlev added the world title to his overall lead World Tour event in Cheongsong, South Korea. There were further competitions victory. Vladislav Iurlov took the men’s speed title, while in the women’s in Beijing, China and a special occasion in Saas-Fee, Switzerland, At the 2018 UIAA General Assembly, the International Slacklining event there were gold medals for Woonseon Shin of South Korea and Maria which celebrated its 20th anniversary of hosting the event. The Photo: Pan Mukola Association (ISA) was voted in as a member of the UIAA. In a Tolokonina of Russia in the lead and speed events respectively. competition in Beijing, in particular proved enthralling. There were dedicated feature, the UIAA focused on the organisation’s historic medals in women’s lead event for Eimir McSwiggan of Ireland evolution, role and future aspirations. There was the sad news to report - the death of British climber, and one- and Enni Bertling of Finland, while in the men’s event, Nathan Clair of time UIAA Ice Climbing athlete Tom Ballard who died in Pakistan alongside France claimed a silver medal. The UIAA Alpine Skills Series returned with a guide on which Italian climbing partner Daniele Nardi. knot to use when joining two ropes. This extract comes from the South Africa A feature was published on mountain access in and the role Climbing section of the UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook. The UIAA was one of number of international bodies who took part in a of the Mountain Club Of South Africa (MCSA), the first UIAA member climate change workshop hosted by the International Olympic Committee in Africa. The article covered the many hiking, mountaineering, rock (IOC) in Switzerland. All of those attending expressed their intention to
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sign the Sports for Climate Action APRIL MAY Framework. UIAA SUPPORTS PREMIERE OF FREE SOLO UIAA HOSTS SPRING MEETINGS The first event of the UIAA’s 2019 The UIAA and the German Alpine Club (DAV) teamed up to produce a series of ten videos designed to help UIAA Global Youth Series was held in Hosted by the Malta Climbing Club (MCC), the UIAA held its spring The latest in the series of Alpine Skills was published, featuring advice improve climber’s belay technique. Originally produced by the DAV, the videos have been translated into how to secure the crux of a rope Guillestre, near Briançon in the French meetings which provided an opportunity for close collaboration on to . English following collaboration with the UIAA Safety Commission and UIAA Training Panel. between various organs of the UIAA – notably Management Alps. The UIAA attended the 2019 edition of Sport Accord in Queensland, Committee, Commissions, Office as well as representatives from The UIAA celebrated the International Day of Sport for Development and Peace on 6 April calling on the action Australia. Represented by President Frits Vrijlandt, the UIAA discussed There was an appeal – supported member associations. Three Commission meetings – Access, Ice and direct involvement of its member associations and their individual members, athletes, climbers and a wide variety of subjects from competition ice climbing, global by the UIAA – from the Slovakian Climbing and Safety – also took place. mountaineers. #WhiteCard, Champions for Peace and IOC Ambassador Programme for Climate Change advocacy to the UIAA’s projects in sustainability. The UIAA was also Mountaineering Association to help were chosen as initiatives to support and explore. able to discuss steps for Ice Climbing to potentially become part of The UIAA issued a statement regarding the recent fatalities on Mount with its initiative to reject the new the Winter Olympics competition programme. Everest. The majority of incidents during the 2019 climbing season State Nature Conservation Authorities The premiere of Free Solo, winner of the Best Documentary at the 91st Academy Awards was occurred due to mass overcrowding on the southern route on the visiting policy for the Tatra Mountains held in Switzerland on 9 April. The documentary focuses on Alex Honnold’s daring attempt There was a comprehensive feature on what was another successful Nepalese side of the mountain. The UIAA called for all stakeholders UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour which is increasingly restricting access to climb El Capitan free solo in June 2017. The UIAA partnered the Swiss release of the film. and highly entertaining . to engage in urgent dialogue to work towards a safer and more with regards the activities of tourists, launched sustainable approach to climbing on Everest. skiers and mountaineers. The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) its Hills to Oceans Campaign which focused on litter picking to help reduce the amount of debris and rubbish in the oceans. The BMC launched a number of This year’s Mountain Protection Commission meeting took place clean-up events throughout Britain. in Baku, Azerbaijan. Among other matters discussed were an The UIAA Mountaineering Commission environmental footprint calculation and sustainability guidelines for met in Serbia on 30-31 March. The meeting, UIAA events. Confirmation of the UIAA signing of theUNFCCC’s Sports which was hosted by the Mountaineering for Climate Action Framework was communicated, with Dr Carolina Association of Serbia (MAS) and Sport and Adler, MPC President, suggesting the idea of proposing a Tourism Faculty (TIMS), was attended by “mountain” working group in collaboration with other federations 18 delegates from 12 different countries. and organisations that have also signed up to this UNFCCC initiative. In response to the developing strategy of the UIAA, a number of new projects will be This year marked the 40th anniversary of the first Slovenian ascent of carried out by MountCom which will sustain Mount Everest. The Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS) celebrated and enhance its value within and beyond the these milestone achievements of Slovenian alpinism with a series of
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JUNE JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER DONATE PROJECT LAUNCHED AWARD SEASON INTENSIFIES DAV TURNS 150 MEMBER NETWORKING PLATFORM
Nominees for the UIAA’s Rock Climbing Festival Award were announced - festivals The UIAA published details of the German Alpine Club The UIAA created a new members associations directory. The resource provides links to The Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association (CTMA) from India, Kazakhstan and Korea. (DAV)’s 150th anniversary celebrations. Since it was dedicated articles and features, contact information, member social media channels celebrated its 50th anniversary. The CTMA was founded on founded in 1869, the DAV has gone on to accumulate and information about climbing in different member countries. June 1969 in Taipei by General Yang Shen and some elite Almost 15 organisations active in over 20 countries submitted details of their around 1.3 million members in over 350 independent mountaineers of the time. Its original mission was to promote Another association to enjoy an anniversary was the Fédération québécoise de la projects for the 2019 Mountain Protection Award. The overall MPA winner stands associations making it the world’s largest national hiking, mountaineering and cross-country within the country and montagne et de l’escalade (FQME), established in Canada, who celebrated its 50th to receive a 5,000 USD cash prize as well as an invitation to present at the UIAA mountaineering association. beyond, to study the science of mountaineering, and represent birthday. General Assembly in Cyprus, 2 November 2019. Twelve projects eventually vyed the individuals who engaged in these activities. The UIAA was The latest in a series of articles exploring the history to compete for the Award. The Indian Mountaineering Federation (IMF) announced that its government had of the UIAA was published. Meanwhile, following the honoured to be part of the celebrations and represented by Vice agreed to open 137 Himalayan peaks to foreign climbers. Until these new measures UIAA’s response to the issues affecting Mount Everest President Thomas Kähr. The provisional calendar for the 2019-20 UIAA Ice Climbing Tour was launched, were announced, foreign climbers had to seek permission from the Ministries of and Kilimanjaro, the UIAA Executive Board endorsed with the announcement of a new Chinese venue - Changchun City. Defence and Home to climb these peaks. Foreigners can now directly apply to the Donate Project The UIAA launched its with the intended aim of the establishment of a Working Group (WG), which will IMF for permits. helping to raise money for mountain related initiatives worldwide. The UIAA continued its regular presence at ISPO trade fairs attending the event work closely with UIAA Commissions and concerned There was the sad news of the passing of another friend of the UIAA, the former vice The Donate scheme provides the opportunity to promote in Munich. This year, a delegation from the UIAA took the opportunity to network members, and whose main objective will be to provide consulting services and advice on matters pertaining to president of the Climbing Federation of Russia (CFR), Yuriy Skurlatov aged 77. Yuriy projects and causes run by UIAA members and partners. It also with representatives of member associations, brands, sponsors and UIAA was Vice President of the UIAA Youth Commission from 1987-1990 and played a key allows the UIAA to react more proactively in creating fundraising the management of the high mountains of the world. Safety Label holders. With an increasing number of manufacturers focusing on role in the hosting of several UIAA Commission meetings in Russia during the 1980s opportunities following natural disasters or unexpected events. promoting sustainable values as well as sustainable products and production, The Oregon-based and family owned outdoor and 1990s. The UIAA expressed its concern about the proposal to build a the UIAA is well positioned to present its initiatives and expertise in this area, company, Sunday Afternoons became an official partner cableway up Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain. notably the new format of the worldwide Respect the Mountains Movement. for the UIAA’s Respect the Mountains project. As an official partner, Sunday Afternoons is committed to Janez It was brought to the attention of the UIAA that an increasing The month ended with the tragic news of the passing of Slovenian climber raising awareness about the RtM movement and will number of online retailers were selling products falsely bearing Svoljsak. Janez, who was just 25 years of age, died after falling ill at base camp offer sun-protective headwear for sale at events and the UIAA Safety Label. The UIAA issued advice to climbers that all while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum, Pakistan. He had been a regular tradeshows to raise funds for UIAA sustainability Free Solo, courtesy of © 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC products can be verified by visiting the dedicated UIAA database. competitor on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. projects.
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OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER COMMUNITY AWARD WINNER GENERAL ASSEMBLY INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN DAY
The UIAA Office produced a digital to the development of Mongolian sport’. The 2019 UIAA General Assembly, hosted by the Cyprus The UIAA was recognised by the IOC for its commitment UIAA’s longstanding commitment to the protection of magazine ahead of the General Assembly Farkas, a former UIAA Vice President was Mountaineering Climbing & Orienteering Federation, to sustainability and featured in the official Sports for the mountain environment and climate action, and its in Larnaca, Cyprus. The publication was presented with the award at a ceremony was held in Larnaca and Ayia Napa, Cyprus on Saturday 2 Climate Action brochure as a dedicated case study. future goals. created to support delegate’s planning in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. November. Delegates from 51 member associations and The (IOC) launched the International Federation (IF) To mark the International Mountain Day (IMD) the and preparations for the event. Content 42 countries were present. The UIAA produced an in-depth look at Sustainability Project in 2016 in order to obtain an IOC announced the launch of the Mountain Summit included the programme and agenda The Swiss Alpine Club’s (SAC) AlpineLearning Project Weeks one its members, the China Hong Kong overview of IF’s sustainability initiatives, which are – a group of sports organisations concerned with the as well as a snapshot of key discussion was confirmed as the seventh winner of the annual UIAA to identify common topics, challenges and good Mountaineering and Climbing Union. The current state of the world’s mountains and committed points and progress made by the UIAA Mountain Protection Award. Following the announcement, practices. One outcome was a series of cases studies to protecting them. It currently includes 11 members, CHKMCU has been a UIAA full member during the current calendar year. it was confirmed that the2020 and 2021 UIAA MPAs will demonstrating how IF’s are contributing to a more of which the UIAA is one. Their aim is to assess and since 1988. be partnered by Bally, the Swiss luxury fashion brand, sustainable world. Ama Dablam minimise the negative impact of sports activities on was announced as the founded in 1851, with a pioneering heritage in climbing The UIAA Mountaineering Commission mountain environments, and leverage the power of inaugural winner of the UIAA’s Mountain and mountaineering. Meanwhile, the Suru Boulder Fest was With the Mountain Protection Commission celebrating met in Hong Kong in October 2019. sport to raise awareness about the importance of these Protection Award Community prize. Their announced as the winner of the 2019 UIAA Rock Climbing its 50th anniversary, the UIAA looked back at ten key The meeting hosted by CHKMCU was environments. project High Altitude Mountain Cleaners Festival Award. moments from its proud history. attended by 14 delegates from 11 received over 60% of the Facebook poll. On IMD, alpinism was recognised by the United Nations The UIAA Medical Commission met for their annual meeting The UIAA, as part of its commitment to tackling climate Scheduled to run from March-May 2020, different countries. Among the topics as an Intangible Cultural Heritage (=ICH) of outstanding in Bolzano, Italy from 7-8 November 2019. change and reducing its own CO2 emissions, published the Ama Dablam project is dedicated to discussed were the management of and universal human and social value. The UIAA had its first annual Carbon Footprint Calculation. This report, high mountains, ISO certification for supported this longstanding initiative, led by its cleaning and removing all old fixed ropes A respected figure within the mountaineering community, covering 2018, outlines the ongoing results of monitoring federations and clubs and UIAA training honorary member Claude Eckhardt. and abandoned garbage on the normal Dr Lee In Jeong was awarded honorary membership of the and reporting of the UIAA’s carbon footprint, which is climbing route of Ama Dablam. and mountain qualifications. UIAA. in response to its signed commitment in early 2019 The UIAA closed the year by sharing a statement with and participation under the United Nations Framework a number of partners - the Alpine Club, the BMC, UIAA Mountaineering Commission The UIAA World Tour 2019-2020, partnered by Outdoor Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Sports for Research, began with Bern, Switzerland playing host to the and the IFMGA – about the proposed changes in President Peter Farkas was awarded a Climate Action. The impact of climate change was a opening European Cup event on 23 November. It proved Mountaineering restrictions in Nepal. gold medal from the Mongolian National key topic discussed at the General Assembly. The a successful one for the home nation who claimed four Olympic Committee for his ‘contribution UIAA issued a statement providing a summary of the medals. There was a further European Cup event and a - 18 - new one at that in Brno, Czech Republic on 30 November. - 19 - Executive Summary MOST READ ARTICLES ON THE UIAA WEBSITE IN 2019 The UIAA published 133 website articles in 2019. Here are the ten most read: QUICK
ALPINISM GETS RECOGNITION FROM LATEST UPDATES TO 2019-2020 IDENTIFYING THE WORLD’S UNESCO AS INTANGIBLE CULTURAL UIAA ICE CLIMBING CORROSION LOCATIONS LINKS HERITAGE OF HUMANITY WORLD TOUR CALENDAR https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/ https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/ https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/2019- identifying-the-worlds-corrosion-locations/ theuiaa.org/ice-climbing alpinism-gets-recognition-from-unesco-as- 2020-uiaa-ice-climbing-world-updates/ intangible-cultural-heritage-of-humanity/ l uiaabern UIAA STATEMENT: TEN THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN JOINT STATEMENT ON PROPOSED MOUNT EVEREST CLIMBING SEASON BUYING CLIMBING GEAR KILIMANJARO CABLEWAY c theuiaa https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/uiaa-statement- https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/uiaa-advice-ten- https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/joint-statement- 2019-mount-everest-climbing-season/ things-to-consider-when-buying-climbing-gear/ on-proposed-kilimanjaro-cableway/ f uiaamountains
h uiaa_mountains DOWNTOWN DENVER: UIAA AND DAV COLLABORATE ON WORLD CUP CONCLUSION SAFETY VIDEO PROJECT https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/ https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/uiaa- d UIAAmountains downtown-denver-world-cup-conclusion/ and-dav-collaborate-on-safety-video-project/
JOIN THE UIAA SAFETY: RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS MOVEMENT IS YOUR EQUIPMENT REALLY CERTIFIED? ARTICLE BY https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/join-the-uiaa- https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/is-your- PETER BOURNE respect-the-mountains-movement/ equipment-really-certified/ UIAA Communication Manager
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Members 2019 UIAA MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION
The UIAA closed 2019 with 89 Member Associations, comprising 63 full members, one unit member, 16 associate members and 9 observer members from 66 different countries, making a total of 3,049,510 individual members.
UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY 2019
No new members were elected at the 2019 UIAA General Assembly.
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Photo: © DAV Membership & Organisation
In terna tion al Sla ck li ne A s so c UIAA MEMBERSHIP 2006 - 2019 ia t io n JOINED Associate Members NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA 3.500.000 JOINED Vereinigung der Akademischen NAME CODE COUNTRY 13 VAAC Switzerland 1985 3.000.000 UIAA Alpen-Clubs der Schweiz
2.500.000 Chinese Taipei Chinese 1 Ecole Nationale d’Escalade du Québec ENEQ Canada 14 CTMA 1993 Mountaineering Association Taipei 2.000.000 Fédération Québécoise de la United 1.500.000 2 FQME Canada 1975 15 The Alpine Club AC 1934 Montagne et de l'Escalade Kingdom 1.000.000 3 Danish Climbing Federation DCF Denmark 1998 500.000 16 Alaskan Alpine Club ALAC United States 1985
0 4 Nehru Institute for Mountaineering NIM India 2011 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
5 Alpenverein Südtirol AVS Italy 1974
UIAA MEMBER ORGANISATIONS 2006 - 2019 6 Korean Alpine Federation KAF Korea 1970 Full Members
Norges Klatreforbund - JOINED 7 NKF Norway 1993 NAME CODE COUNTRY 100 The Norwegian Climbing Federation UIAA 90 Federação de Campismo e Afghanistan Climbing & 80 8 FCMP Portugal 1992 1 ACMF Afghanistan 2017 Montanhismo de Portugal Mountaineering Federation 70 60 Federação Portuguesa de 9 FPME Portugal 2004 2 Albanian Mountaineering Federation FSHALTM Albania 2017 50 Montanhismo e Escalada 40 30 10 Centre Excursionista de Catalunya CEC Spain 1932 3 Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo FASA Argentina 1951 P Z S , S 20 lo v e n 10 Euskal Mendizale Federazioa - ia 11 EMF Spain 2002 4 Verband Alpiner Vereine Österreichs VAVOE Austria 1951 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Basque Mountaineering Federation
Federació d'Entitats 12 FEEC Spain 2000 5 Air and Extreme Federation of Azerbaijan FAIREX Azerbaijan 2011 Excursionistes de Catalunya
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JOINED JOINED JOINED JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY NAME CODE COUNTRY NAME CODE COUNTRY NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA UIAA UIAA UIAA
Mountaineering and Climbing Kosovo Mountaineering and 6 Bangladesh Mountaineering Federation BMF Bangladesh 2013 20 MCAG Georgia 1933 34 KMAF Kosovo 2011 48 Polish Mountaineering Association PZA Poland 1932 Association of Georgia Alpinist Federation
7 Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium CMBEL Belgium 1932 21 Deutscher Alpenverein DAV Germany 1932 35 Liechtensteiner Alpenverein LAV Liechtenstein 1959 49 Clube Nacional de Montanhismo CNM Portugal 1955
Mountaineering Union of Federation Bosnia - Hellenic Federation of Clubul Alpin Român - 8 PS FBIH 1977 22 EOOA Greece 1936 36 Lithuanian Mountaineering Association LMA Lithuania 1991 50 CAR Romania 1934 Bosnia - Herzegovina Herzegovina Mountaineering and Climbing Romanian Alpine Club
Confederação Brasileira de Federacion nacional de 9 CBME Brazil 2005 23 FNAG Guatemala 2017 37 Luxembourg Federations FLERA Luxembourg 1938 51 Russian Mountaineering Federation RMF Russia 2007 Montanhismo e Escalada Andinismo de Guatemala
Bulgarian Climbing and China Hong Kong Mountaineering Mountaineering Association of 10 BCMF Bulgaria 1935 24 CHKMCU Hong Kong 1988 38 Malta Climbing Club MCC Malta 2018 52 PSS Serbia 2002 Mountaineering Federation and Climbing Union Serbia - Planinarski Savez Srbije
Hungarian Mountaineering and Slovak Mountaineering Union SMU 11 The Alpine Club of Canada ACC Canada 1947 25 MHSSz Hungary 2001 39 Club Alpin Monégasque CAM Monaco 1994 53 JAMES Slovakia 1932 Sport Climbing Federation - Slovensky Horolezecky Spolok
Mongolian National Sport 12 Federación de Andinismo de Chile FEACH Chile 1955 26 Indian Mountaineering Foundation IMF India 1981 40 MNSCF Mongolia 2010 54 Alpine Association of Slovenia PZS Slovenia 1991 Climbing Federation
Indonesia Sport Climbing and Federation Royale Marocaine 13 Chinese Mountaineering Association CMA China 1985 27 FPTI Indonesia 2016 41 FRMSM Morocco 2017 55 The Mountain Club of South Africa MCSA South Africa 1992 Mountaineering Federation de Ski et Montagnes
Croatian Mountaineering Association I.R. Iran Mountaineering and Federación Española de Deportes 14 HPS Croatia 1991 28 IMSCF Iran 1972 42 Nepal Mountaineering Association NMA Nepal 1975 56 FEDME Spain 1932 - Hrvatski Planinarski Savez Sport Climbing Federation de Montaña y Escalada
Cyprus Mountaineering Royal Dutch Mountaineering Swedish Climbing Federation - 15 CMCOF Cyprus 2007 29 Mountaineering Ireland MI Ireland 2004 43 NKBV Netherlands 1932 57 SKF Sweden 1973 Climbing & Orienteering Federation and Climbing Club Svenska Klätterförbundet
Czech Mountaineering Federation Czech Israel Climbers' Club Schweizer Alpen-Club - 16 CMF 1932 30 ILCC Israel 2009 44 New Zealand Alpine Club Inc. NZAC New Zealand 1932 58 SAC Switzerland 1932 - Cesky Horolezecky Svaz Republic (Formerly Israeli Alpine Club) Swiss Alpine Club
Japan Mountaineering and Norwegian Alpine Club - 17 Dansk Bjergklub - Danish Alpine Club DBKK Denmark 1977 31 JMSCA Japan 1967 45 NTK Norway 1965 59 Chinese Taipei Alpine Association CTAA Taiwan 1989 Sport Climbing Association Norsk Tindeklub
Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Mountaineering Federation North Turkiye Dagcilik Federasyonu - 18 Finnish Climbing Association FCA Finland 1994 32 MSCRFK Kazakhstan 2017 46 MMSF 1999 60 TDF Turkey 1967 Federation of the Republic of Kazakhstan of North Macedonia Macedonia Turkish Mountaineering Federation
Fédération française des clubs Ukrainian Mountaineering and 19 FFCAM France 1932 33 Korean Alpine Club CAC Korea 1969 47 Alpine Club of Pakistan ACP Pakistan 1979 61 UMCF Ukraine 1991 alpins et de montagne Climbing Federation
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Observer Members
JOINED JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA UIAA
United Czech International Czech 62 British Mountaineering Council BMC 1947 1 CZIML 2010 Kingdom Mountain Leader Association Republic
2 Costa Rican Federation of Mountain Sports FECODEM Costa Rica 2019 63 The American Alpine Club AAC United States 1932
Union of International Mountain 3 UIMLA France 2019 Leaders Association
4 Jordan Tourism Board Jordan 2013
National Adventure 5 NAA Malaysia 2015 Association of Malaysia
6 Clube de Actividades de Ar Livre CAAL Portugal 2011
National Mountaineering & 7 NMCA Sri Lanka 2015 Climbing Association Sri Lanka REPORT BY International Federation of IFMGA/ 8 Switzerland 1987 Mountain Guides Associations UIAGM STEPHANIE STETTBACHER 9 International Slackline Association ISA Switzerland 2019 UIAA Office WANT TO RECEIVE THE LATEST NEWS FROM THE UIAA? PETER MUIR UIAA Executive Board Unit Member SIGN UP TO THE UIAA FURTHER READING JOINED NAME CODE COUNTRY UIAA NEWSLETTER! UIAA member associations
1 International Skyrunning Federation ISF Switzerland 2015 SIGN UP Photo: 150 years of the German Alpine Club © DAV
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REVIEW 2019:
UIAA GENERAL ASSEMBLY membership of honorary the UIAA receives Dr Ingeong Lee The 2019 UIAA General Assembly, hosted by the Cyprus Mountaineering Climbing & Orienteering Federation, was held in Larnaca and Ayia Napa, Cyprus on Saturday 2 November. Delegates from 51 member associations and 42 countries were present.
Following opening addresses from the President of the Cyprus Olympic Committee, The UIAA EB (Executive Board) and MC (Management Mr. Dinos Michaelides, and the Sport Advisory of the Republic of Cyprus, Mr Phivos Committee) proposed new membership fee categories Zachariades, UIAA President Frits Vrijlandt presented key points from the 2018 (Annex 1, AoA) for smaller national federations. This Annual Report (AR). The full digital version of the AR can be viewed here. Vrijlandt was approved and will open the possibility of UIAA also introduced the final year of his Presidency. His second four-year term ends in membership to more federations worldwide. October 2020.
UIAA General Secretary and Treasurer Peter Muir presented both the 2018 and 2019 No new applications for UIAA membership were received budgets and the 2020 budget forecast. While confirming that current losses were not for GA 2019 meaning the current number of members sustainable, Muir remarked that budgeting provisions for 2020 were encouraging. – 89 associations from 66 countries – remains the same. Delegates during the 2019 UIAA General Assembly. Photo: CMCOF
- 30 - - 31 - Membership & Organisation
Significant time was dedicated to UIAA Two vacant Management Committee seats (please refer to Mountain Protection Commission the latest version of its proposals to revamp care for the mountains, their fragile ecosystems, Advocacy and current projects led by the were filled by Simon Alden (Malta Climbing chapter). Mountain Protection Commission Executive Board and Management Committee the UIAA ahead of the GA. The day before vulnerable communities and cultures. We serve Club) and existing UIAA SafeCom President elections. Thomas Kähr, after seven years as the GA, the UIAA Management Committee • Competition Ice Climbing – remains an Greg Moseley, Mountain Club of South Africa, the best interests of our member federations Amit Chowdhury (Indian Mountaineering discussed a number of the proposals and made an EB member, stood down from his position presented details about the creation of a High important area of activity for the UIAA Foundation). and of our worldwide community. For the to take over Presidency of the International Mountains Working Group, endorsed by the EB recommendations. Two areas of the report were The GA concluded with the traditional Gala Ski Mountaineering Federation. The UIAA A motion by the German Alpine Club (DAV) on to focus on the issues facing the high mountains voted on – and approved – during the GA. The mountains. For the World. dinner and Award ceremony. During the thanked the Swiss national for the energy and climate change was unanimously approved. of the world. This group will continue to work first was the new UIAA profile which reads: Members also agreed on the division of the Ceremony, Dr Lee’s honorary membership was dedication he has brought to the role including Further details can be found here. As well as with key stakeholders including member fully supporting the DAV motion, the UIAA also federations and local bodies to recommend The UIAA is the International Climbing and following Strategic segments of the UIAA: celebrated; Thomas Kähr was commended for the past year as Vice President. Three Board stressed the longstanding work it has dedicated policy. Please refer to statements published by his commitment to the UIAA and two member positions were filled. Zoljargal Banzragch Mountaineering Federation. As the leading • Mountaineering – including Access and to the subject including signing MoUs with key the UIAA on Everest and Kilimanjaro. Advocacy and Training programmes federations received Awards for celebrating (Mongolian National Climbing Federation), international parties and UN bodies (UNEP and global network, we promote climbing and Mahmood Hashemi (Iran Mountaineering and Injeong Lee, President of the UAAA and former • Safety – including Research and Gear testing, significant milestones in 2019: notably 50 UNFCCC). mountaineering and advocate for access to Sport Climbing Federation) and Lode Beckers President of the Korean Alpine Federation, was UIAA Safety Label, medical advice and years of the Chinese Taipei Mountaineering The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission is also bestowed Honorary Membership. A profile of climbing areas and mountain ranges. While documentation (Climbing and Mountaineering Belgium) join Association (CTMA) and 150 years of the working on Sustainability Guidelines related Dr Lee can be found here. existing EB members – Vrijlandt, Muir, Helène looking to our future, we value our heritage and • Mountain Protection – including global German Alpine Club (DAV). to climate change (guidelines will include Denis and Yongfeng Wang. travel/event planning advice, a UIAA internal For the first time, the UIAA GA was attended by climate change policy and an assessment of an The new EB composition is as follows: a representative of the International Olympic acceptable carbon footprint baseline). Presentation: 2019 UIAA Mountain Protection Award Committee (IOC). Irina Gladkikh, IOC Associate • Frits Vrijlandt, President The UIAA was also a leading voice at COP21, Director Winter Sports and Recognised Sports • Zoljargal Banzragch, Vice President the United Nations Framework Convention on and IF Relations, presented three topics – the • Lode Beckers, General Secretary Climate Change. Together with experts, the UIAA proposed a ‘Declaration on Mountain Olympic Agenda 2020, Gender Equality, New • Peter Muir, Treasurer Change for COP21, ensuring the vulnerability Norms. • Helène Denis, Member of mountains is recognised in the final Paris Accord’. It can be viewed here. The UIAA released Thomas Kähr’s final act as UIAA Vice President • Mahmood Hashemi, Member a dedicated news statement on Climate Change was to provide updates on the progress of the • Yongfeng Wang, Member on International Mountain Day, 11 December Strategic Working Group (SWG), who released
- 32 - - 33 - Membership & Organisation UIAA Mountain Protection Award
UIAA AND PETZL Plotted history of the UIAA produced by the CMCOF (above). Thomas Kahr bows out as AlpineLearning Project Weeks run by the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) was Vice President and Dr Injeong Lee receives honorary membership (below) announced as the overall winner of the 2019 UIAA Mountain Protection FOUNDATION: ALPINE UIAA Heritage Timeline Award. SAC President Françoise Jaquet collected the Award from UIAA Mountain Protection Commission Vice-President Mike Maunsell. A SKILLS HANDBOOK At every GA, the hosts find new ways of providing dedicated review of the 2019 MPA is available here. delegates a diverse and interesting cultural As has become tradition at the UIAA General Assembly, Stephane programme. As well as offering a captivating insight Lozach’meur, Petzl Foundation Project Manager, presented the progress New UIAA Mountain Protection Award Partner: Bally into Cypriot music and dance, a number of delegates made regarding the UIAA Alpine Skills Handbook. The project unites also enjoyed the island’s numerous rock climbing Shortly after the confirmation of the 2019 UIAA Mountain Protection Petzl Foundation, the UIAA Training Panel, the UIAA Mountaineering opportunities. Pavlos Georgiades, federation Commission and UIAA members worldwide. Lozach’meur confirmed Award winner an exciting announcement was made regarding the President, spearheaded a project focused on the that a new chapter on Canyoning has been produced. New agreements future of the project. The 2020 and 2021 UIAA MPAs will be partnered regarding translations were signed with Federació d’Entitats Excursionistes history of the UIAA. by Bally, the Swiss luxury fashion brand, founded in 1851, with a De Catalunya (FEEC), Mountaineering Federation of North Macedonia Following months of research, Georgiades (FPSM) and the Indonesia Sport Climbing and Mountaineering Federation created a visual graphic tracing the key pioneering heritage in climbing and mountaineering. (FPTI). Translation in the following languages are in progress: Albanian, moments in the federation’s history. The end result was a giant banner which was also Further details on the partnership are available here. Farsi, Greek, Japanese and Romanian. The following languages are reproduced as a tablecloth gift for all delegates. currently available: English (including digital version), Chinese, French, Presentation of UIAA Alpine Summer Skills Handbook UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award Korean, Mongolian and Turkish. The following languages were printed In the near future, the UIAA Office will work on for the first time in 2019: Czech and Serbian. Suru Boulder Fest, India, was confirmed as the winner of the 2019 UIAA amendments, updates and corrections to the visual
Rock Climbing Festival Award (RCFA). The festival is supported by following feedback received from delegates at the UIAA member association, Indian Mountaineering Foundation, with the Purchase: Alpine Handbook GA. The objective is to provide a visual version on latter’s Amit Chowdhury (also UIAA SafeCom President) accepting the To purchase the DIGITAL Award on their behalf. The 2019 RCFA was only open to festivals from VERSION of the UIAA the UIAA website. The UIAA thanks Georgiades Alpine Skills Handbook Asia. A full review, and details on the 2020 Award, can be found here. (in English), including for this initiative and hosts CMCOF for its excellent any future updates to the organisation of the 2019 GA. - 34 - digital version, click here. - 35 - Membership & Organisation Update OTHER MEETINGS Ahead of the GA, the UIAA Executive Board, UIAA Management Committee and Commission UIAA STRATEGY PROCESS Presidents all held meetings. A UIAA Communication workshop was presented by Communication Manager Peter Bourne. The current Strategic Plan of the UIAA, approved at the 2016 UIAA General Assembly (GA) in Brixen, was built around the three pillars of safety, sport and sustainability and covers the period 2017-2020. Throughout recent years, significant time has been dedicated to developing a new strategy for the UIAA, assessing every aspect of the federation, its activities and support for members. FUTURE GENERAL A Strategic Working Group (SWG) published their findings and recommendations ‘The UIAA of the 21st century’ ahead of the 2019 ASSEMBLIES UIAA Management Committee and General Assembly in Cyprus.
The 2020 GA will be held in Antalya, Turkey on 24 October and hosted by TDF – Turkish Following meetings dating back to the 2019 General Assembly in Cyprus GA representatives will review all documenation produced to date and Mountaineering Federation. and involving the UIAA General Assembly and Management Committee, work on a proposal for discussion at the 2020 GA. the Executive Board worked on realigning and reformulating the UIAA’s vision, objectives and role. Taking elements from the expertise which RESTATED PRIORITIES FOR 2020 AND BEYOND: MISSION went into the preparation of the ‘UIAA of the 21st century’, the resulting The mission of the UIAA is to provide value-adding assistance to ARTICLE BY proposal includes a mission and three derived objectives. 2019 UIAA General Assembly, Cyprus. Photo: CMCOF member federations in promoting practices of environmentally responsible, enjoyable and safe mountaineering. The UIAA intends to PETER BOURNE The proposed reworded objectives (detailed below) were discussed UIAA Communication Manager defend the interests of climbing and mountaineering federations and at meetings of the Executive Board, and will be presented for further sports practitioners through rewarding relationships with international FURTHER RESOURCES discussion and approval by the Management Committee and the UIAA public and sports sector authorities, local entities and private sector Photos from the GA can be found here. operators. GA in 2020. It serves as a draft Mission and Statement of Priorities Read more about intended to incorporate the Profile Statement (page 33), and other UIAA General Assemblies here. points, agreed by the GA in October 2019 in Cyprus. A group of MC/
- 36 - - 37 - Photo: UIAA Photo: UIAA Membership & Organisation
Finances FINANCIAL RESULTS 2019 In 2019, the UIAA significantly reduced meeting, travel and staff expenses. All projects continued, as proposed by the Commissions and approved, as part of the 2019 budget, by the 2018 General Assembly. On the income side, the UIAA failed to obtain the budgeted and anticipated additional sponsorship income of CHF 20’000. STRATEGY PROCESS (CONTINUED) Compared to 2018, staff costs were reduced calendar and centralised services, the income and contributions, the Swiss Alpine Club Provide global guidance on nature and mountaineering climate risk Be a helpline to national federations and their members by CHF 50’000.— (15% in total or 70% of a from newly introduced organizer service and the International Olympic Committee. full-time employment). At the same time, the fees was CHF 77’000.— over budget, while For some smaller federations, CHF 6’500.— Preserve mountainous nature through responsible and respectful The UIAA exists to serve its members. Its task is to assist national Office reduced accumulated overtime from a expenses for Ice Climbing related services membership fees were paid by the UIAA behaviour, while providing the UIAA members with reliable federations, to respond to member inquiries, to defend their interests, high of CHF 18’000.— in March 2019 to CHF were CHF 86’000.— higher than anticipated. solidarity fund. The 2019 General Assembly international guidance on the increasing climbing and mountaineering 5’000.— by the end of the year. This could be to advocate among international and Olympic associations the cause decided to introduce two new membership risks caused by climate change. All other Commission projects were more achieved through: fee categories for small members. The of just and sustainable mountaineering. A pertinent example is the work or less in line with the budget. Due to some UIAA continues to benefit from a multi- Setting and maintaining high standards and support provided during the Covid-19 crisis. • reduced Office availability in July, delayed projects, Mountain Protection and pillar income structure (membership fees, August and December Safety Commissions’ expenses were below Through UIAA Commission activities, the UIAA has led the way in contributions, Safety Label fees, partnerships • no UIAA-organised “Respect the budget. and service fees). a diverse range of fields. The UIAA continues to set standards for Mountains” events climbing and mountaineering in areas such as safety, mountain Income as budgeted was generated from • re-focusing of administrative processes protection, training, responsible access, sustainability, climbing and membership fees (loss of a large member The overall 2019 loss amounts to CHF sky running sports and mountain medicine research. Due to a very full Ice Climbing World Tour compared to 2018), the UIAA Safety Label 16’600.— (2018: CHF 29’900.—).
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Membership & Organisation
PROFIT AND LOSS STATEMENT BUDGET 2020, Income/ Expenses FORECAST 2020 CHF Results 2018 Budget 2019 Results 2019 Budget 2020 Forecast 2020 GA APPROVED APRIL INCOME Membership Fees 338’000 318’000 316’000 302’800 302’800 Keeping UIAA finances in balance remains a of online meeting tools and a critical analysis of the Safety Label Fees 127’100 130’000 132’400 122’800 123’200 challenge for the Treasurer, the Executive Board value of UIAA participation in third party meetings Other Fees (IC Service, TS) 65’100 136’100 215’200 97’100 115’200 and the UIAA Office. including the number of attendees, and continuing to Grants 51’400 57’700 54’800 56’000 55’300 encourage commission meetings in conjunction with Partnerships 257’900 215’000 198’800 198’500 225’600 The 2020 budget was prepared based on the results Management Committee meetings and/or General Total Income 839’500 856’800 917’200 777’200 822’100 Assemblies, all with a view to protect main projects of 2019 and is conservative. With the introduction of of the UIAA. the new membership categories and the expulsion EXPENSES The 2020 UIAA budget shows a projected profit Staff 341’200 290’000 292’000 290’000 295’000 of members resulting from non-payment, income of CHF 7’500.— (including GA 2019 decisions Services 43’000 40’000 40’200 40’800 41’100 from membership fees is expected to decrease by with regards to membership fees and new Bally Office, Administration 41’600 30’000 30’300 28’100 28’000 CHF 10’000.—. partnership). Meeting Expenses 78’600 50’000 45’700 37’000 37’000 Commission Operative 17’000 18’300 14’500 20’000 20’000 Additional income will be generated from a new Of course, future decisions on the Strategic Plan and ExpresesCommission Projects 316’400 409’600 484’600 330’750 345’700 partnership with Bally for the UIAA Mountain UIAA structure will affect the budget but primarily into Marketing, Communication 31’600 28’000 26’500 20’000 29’200 Protection Award. On the expenses side, a continued 2021. Based on the strategic priorities, a sustainable Total Expenses 869’400 865’900 933’800 766’650 796’000 reduction of travel is expected through increased use financial strategy needs to be developed. Reserve 10’000 20’000 Result -29’900 -9’100 -16’600 550 6’100
UIAA 2019 - 2020 PLS RESULTS 15032020 - 41 -
1 Membership & Organisation Expenses Income EXPENSES INCOME CHF Results 2018 Budget 2019 Results 2019 Budget 2020 CHF Results 2018 Budget 2019 Results 2019 Budget 2020 EXPENSES Staff 341’200EXPENSES 290’000 292’000 295’000 Membership Fees 338’000 318’000 316’000 302’800 CHF Results 2018 BudgetServices 2019 Results 2019 Budget 2020 43’000CHF 40’000 Results 201840’200 Budget 2019 40’800Results 2019 Budget 2020 INCOMESafetyINCOME Label Fees, TS 127’500 130’000 134’100 122’800 Office, Administration 41’600 30’000 30’300 28’100 Staff 341’200 290’000 292’000 295’000 Staff 341’200 290’000 292’000 295’000 Service Fees, Licences IC 65’000 136’100 213’500 97’100 CHF CHF ResultsResults 2018 2018 BudgetBudget 2019 2019 ResultsResults 2019 2019 BudgetBudget 2020 2020 Services 43’000 Meeting40’000 Expenses 40’200 40’800 78’600Services 50’000 43’00045’700 40’000 37’000 40’200 40’800 Grants 51’000 57’700 54’800 56’000 Office, Administration 41’600 Commission30’000 Projects30’300 28’100 333’400Office, Administration 427’900 41’600499’100 30’000 362’750 30’300 28’100 MembershipMembership Fees Fees 338’000338’000 318’000318’000 316’000316’000 302’800302’800 Partnerships IC 258’000 215’000 198’800 225’500 Meeting Expenses 78’600 50’000 45’700 37’000 Meeting Expenses 78’600 50’000 45’700 37’000 SafetySafety Label LabelFees, Fees,TS TS 127’500127’500 130’000130’000 134’100134’100 122’800122’800 Marketing, Communication 31’600 28’000 26’500 23’000 Commission Projects 333’400 427’900 499’100 362’750 Commission Projects 333’400 427’900 499’100 362’750 ServiceService Fees, Fees,Licences Licences IC IC 65’00065’000 136’100136’100 213’500213’500 97’10097’100 Reserve 10’000 Marketing, Communication 31’600 28’000 26’500 23’000 Marketing, Communication 31’600 28’000 26’500 23’000 TotalGrantsGrants Income 51’00051’000839’500 57’70057’700 856’80054’80054’800 917’20056’00056’000 804’200 Reserve Total Expenses 10’000 869’400Reserve 865’900 933’800 796’650 10’000 PartnershipsPartnerships IC IC 258’000258’000 215’000215’000 198’800198’800 225’500225’500 Total Expenses 869’400 Result865’900 933’800 796’650 -29’900Total Expenses -9’100 869’400-16’600 865’900 7’550 933’800 796’650 Result -29’900 -9’100 -16’600 7’550 Result -29’900 -9’100 -16’600 7’550 Total TotalIncome IncomeINCOME RESULTS 2018839’500839’500 856’800856’800 917’200917’200INCOME RESULTS804’200804’200 2019 Income Results 2018 Income Results 2019 Expenses Results 2019 Expenses Results 2018 INCOMEINCOME RESULTS RESULTS 2018 2018 INCOMEINCOME RESULTS RESULTS 2019 2019 EXPENSES RESULTS 2018 EXPENSESEXPENSES RESULTS RESULTS 2019 2018 EXPENSES RESULTS 2018EXPENSES RESULTS 2019 EXPENSES RESULTS 2019
Partnerships 22% Communication 4% Communication 3% Communication 4% Communication 3% PartnershipsPartnerships 22% 22% Communication 4% Communication 3% Partnerships 31% Membership 34% PartnershipsPartnerships 31% 31% MembershipMembership 34% 34% Staff 31% Staff 31% Membership 40% MembershipMembership 40% 40% Staff 39% Staff 39% Grants 6% Staff 31% GrantsGrants 6% 6% Commission Projects 38% Commission Projects 38% Staff 39% Commission Projects 53% Commission Projects 53% Commission Projects 38% GrantsGrants 6% 6% Grants 6% Services 4% Services 4% IC ServiceIC Service Fee 23% Fee 23% IC 8%IC 8% Office 3% Commission Projects 53% Office 3% IC ServiceSafety Safety Fee15% 23% 15% Services 5% Services 5% SafetySafety 15% 15% Meetings 5% Meetings 5% IC 8% Safety 15% Office 5% Office 5% Services 4% Safety 15% Meetings 9% Meetings 9% Office 3% Services 5% Meetings 5% Office 5% - 42 - - 43 - Meetings 9%
1 1 1 1
1 1 STAFFSTAFF ALLOCATED ALLOCATED TO TO COMMISSIONS COMMISSIONS
UIAAUIAA ResultsResults 2018 2018 BudgetBudget 2019 2019 ResultsResults 2019 2019
GeneralGeneral Federation Federation Management Management 84’60084’600 96’30096’300 82’90082’900 SafetySafety Commission Commission 58’20058’200 52’30052’300 42’40042’400 MedicalMedical Commission Commission 2’4002’400 2’4002’400 6’6006’600 MountainMountain Protection Protection Commission Commission 77’00077’000 40’80040’800 42’40042’400 MountaineeringMountaineering Commission, Commission, TS TS 6’6006’600 5’6005’600 9’4009’400 AccessAccess Commission Commission 2’9002’900 900900 1’0001’000 RockRock Climbing Climbing 4’3004’300 4’4004’400 2’8002’800 YouthYouth Commission Commission 4’3004’300 4’4004’400 4’7004’700 IceIce Climbing Climbing Commission Commission 98’50098’500 80’90080’900 97’00097’000 AntiAnti Doping Doping Commission Commission 2’4002’400 2’0002’000 2’8002’800 Membership & Organisation
TotalUIAATotal Sta Staff ff STAFF ALLOCATED341’200341’200 TO COMMISSIONS290’000290’000 292’000292’000 2019
STAFFStaffSTAFF allocated ALLOCATED ALLOCATED to Commissions TO TO COMMISSIONS COMMISSIONS StaffSTAFFSTAFF allocated ALLOCATED ALLOCATED to Commissions TO TO COMMISSIONS COMMISSIONS Results 2018RESULTSRESULTS 2018 2018 Results 2019 RESULTSRESULTS 2019 2019 STAFF ALLOCATED TO COMMISSIONS UIAA Results 2018 Budget 2019 Results 2019
1%1% 1%1% General Federation Management 84’600 96’300 82’900 25%25% Safety Commission 58’200 52’300 42’400 29%29% 28%28% 33%33% Medical Commission 2’400 2’400 6’600 Mountain Protection Commission 77’000 40’800 42’400 Mountaineering Commission, TS 6’600 5’600 9’400
1%1% Access Commission 2’900 900 1’000
1%1%1%1%2%2% 17%17% Rock Climbing 4’300 4’400 2’800 15%15% 2%2%1%1%3%3% Youth Commission 4’300 4’400 4’700 1%1% 2%2% 23%23% 15%15% Ice Climbing Commission 98’500 80’900 97’000 Anti Doping Commission 2’400 2’000 2’800
Total Staff 341’200 290’000 292’000 GeneralGeneralGeneral Federation Federation Federation Management Management ManagementSafetySafety CommissionSafety MedicalMedicalMedical Commission MountainMountainMountain Protection Protection Protection Commission Mountaineering,Mountaineering, Training Training AccessAccess RockRock Climbing Climbing YouthYouth Youth Youth IceMountaineeringIce Climbing Climbing Commission AccessAnti CommissionAnti Doping Doping Rock Climbing Youth Commission STAFF ALLOCATED TO COMMISSIONS STAFF ALLOCATED TO COMMISSIONS Training Panel RESULTS 2018 RESULTS 2019 Ice Climbing Commission Anti-Doping Commission
- 44 - - 45 - AD 1% AD, AC, Rock, Youth, Med: 1% each GFM 28% IC 29% GFM 25% IC 33%
MT2% MT 3% 1% 1% 1% SAF 17% RC 1% SAF 15% MP 23% YC2% 1% MED2% MP 15% 1 1
1 Membership & Organisation BALANCE SHEET - ASSETS BALANCEAssets SHEET - ASSETS UIAA 31 December 2018 31 December 2019 UIAA UIAA 31 December 2018 31 December 2019 Assets Assets Cash and cash equivalents 531’329 427’299 BALANCE Cash and cash equivalents 531’329 427’299 Accounts receivables 0 8’700 Accounts receivables 0 8’700 Stock of goods 0 5’000 SHEET Stock of goods 0 5’000 General provision 106’610 70’042 General provision 106’610 70’042 Total assets 637’939 511’041 Total assets 637’939 511’041
BALANCE Liabilities SHEET and - FundsLIABILITIES AND FUNDS BALANCE SHEET - LIABILITIES AND FUNDS UIAA 31 December 2018 31 December 2019 UIAA 31 December 2018 31 December 2019
Liabilities Liabilities Accounts payable 27’992 4’204 Accounts payable 27’992 4’204 Other short term liabilities 215 5’192 Other short term liabilities 215 5’192 Accrued expenses and deferred income 247’947 169’223 Accrued expenses and deferred income 247’947 169’223 General provision 56’543 48’989 General provision 56’543 48’989 Total current liabilities 332’697 227’608 Total current liabilities 332’697 227’608
Funds Funds Solidarity fund 8’821 3’620 ARTICLE BY Solidarity fund 8’821 3’620 Access and conservation fund 2’763 2’763 Access and conservation fund 2’763 2’763 PETER MUIR Total funds 11’584 6’383 Total funds 11’584 6’383 UIAA Treasurer
Capital of the association as per 1 January 323’554 293’658 Capital of the association as per 1 January 323’554 293’658 Profit/loss for the year -29’896 -16’609 NILS GLATTHARD Profit/loss for the year -29’896 -16’609 UIAA Director of Capital of the association as per 31 December 293’658 277’049 Capital of the association as per 31 December 293’658 277’049 Operations Total liabilities and funds 637’939 511’041 Total liabilities and funds 637’939 511’041 - 46 - - 47 -
1 1 Photo: © Minwook Joo Membership & Organisation
Based in Switzerland In 2019, the Office is composed of six paid staff members, including one independent for communication, representing UIAA OFFICE 4.2 full-time jobs in total. ORGANISATIONAL CHART REPORT UIAA MEMBER FEDERATIONS The UIAA Office is located in Bern. The staff working in Switzerland
are responsible for running the Court UIAA General Assembly Auditors daily operations of the UIAA. It is the staff’s duty and commitment to serve UIAA members and to support, UIAA Management Committee coordinate, plan and implement UIAA Working Groups UIAA Commissions the activities and decisions of the UIAA Executive Board Executive Board, the Management Committee and UIAA Commissions.
On an operational level, the UIAA UIAA Office Marketing N Glatthard Office/Safety continues to benefit from a close N Glatthard S Stettbacher collaboration with the SAC, Swiss Communication Accounting Alpine Club. P Bourne Safety Sport Projects A Semelet S Stettbacher R Adie C Kahoun
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ROBERT ADIE PETER BOURNE NILS GLATTHARD CAROL KAHOUN
SPORT EVENTS COORDINATOR COMMUNICATION MANAGER DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS PROJECT MANAGER [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
• Development of the “Global Mountain • Support, coordination, planning and implementation of projects, • Development and implementation of • General management and coordination of the UIAA Network” through cooperation and exchange activities and decisions of the UIAA Ice Climbing, Youth and UIAA’s communication strategy, plans and staff in Bern and abroad; of information with relevant international Anti-Doping Commissions. tools. • Management and implementation of UIAA projects. organisations and partners. • Collaboration and development of relationships with sport • Content producer and coordinator in • Coordination of internal and external communication. • UIAA representation on relevant national and organisations, stakeholders and partners: IOC, member general. international platforms. • federations, event organisers, sponsors, media, athletes and Preparation and presentation of budgets and financial • Day-to-day website updates (coordination • Development and coordination of the reports in collaboration with the UIAA Treasurer. officials. regarding website development which is UIAA Mountain Protection Award, Respect • • Development and coordination of UIAA’s international events managed by external webmasters) and Link between staff, volunteers, EB, Commission the Mountains Movement and other UIAA such as UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships, UIAA social media management. Presidents, Management Committee and member projects and partnerships. associations. Ice Climbing World Tour, UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth • Newsletters, press releases, member/ • Evaluation and development of new funding Championships and Continental Cup Series. partner/sponsor communications. • Development and presentation of partnership proposals opportunities, linked to UIAA or UIAA partner and contracts. projects, such as donations and legacies. • Support and implementation of sport-related projects and • Annual Report and GA Magazine creation. • Office support and link for UIAA Medical decisions of the UIAA Executive Board, Management Committee, • UIAA representation at events and on international Commission. General Assembly and Commissions. platforms.
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AGNÈS SEMELET ACCOUNTANT [email protected]
• Preparation of budgets, forecasts, profit and loss statements, balance sheet, in collaboration with the UIAA Treasurer and Director of Operations.
• Accounting, bookkeeping.
• Member surveys, invoices, reminders, payments.
STEPHANIE STETTBACHER REPORT BY
OFFICE COORDINATOR & SAFETY LABEL ADMINISTRATOR NILS GLATTHARD [email protected] UIAA Director of Operations
Office Address: • Member services: first and main contact for UIAA member associations, General UIAA - International Climbing and Assembly organisation, GA agendas and minutes. Mountaineering Federation Monbijoustrasse 61 • Management Committee services: MC meeting organisation, preparation of agendas Postfach CH-3000 and minutes, implementation of MC decisions. Bern 14 • Commission services: commission member administration, preparation and coordination Switzerland T: +41 (0)31 370 1828 of Safety Commission meetings. UIAA Office representatives at the 2019 UIAA General Assembly in Cyprus www.theuiaa.org • UIAA Safety Label administration: standards, test labs, manufacturers, certificates, [email protected] invoices.
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The UIAA’s communication services are primarily delivered to its members and secondly, to the wider climbing and mountaineering community.
During the 2019 UIAA General Assembly, the UIAA conducted a dedicated Workshop which ran through its current Communication planning, tools, deliverables, future objectives and greater focus on member benefits. The presentation also tackled some feedback from the 2018 UIAA General Assembly: COMMUNICATION ‘The UIAA should communicate more the benefits to its members’
‘The UIAA should be an/the international reference point’
Photo Credit: Tom Nakamura ‘THE UIAA LACKS A CLEAR IDENTITY’
‘The UIAA should bring its members closer together’
‘The UIAA: is it B2B or B2C?’ - 54 - - 55 - Membership & Organisation Annual Report One of the key deliverables to its members, the UIAA Annual Report was completely revised in 2018 to include dedicated areas on member benefits, greater access to digital material, links to key assets and presented in a more attractive, readable format. News Articles GENERAL NEW The UIAA communication strategy is built around During 2019, the UIAA ASSEMBLY collaboration with all of focused increasingly on global its Commissions, member – DIGITAL advocacy in relation to key associations, partners as issues, notably the Everest well as events and projects. MAGAZINE climbing season, proposals The strategy put in place to construct a cableway on To facilitate delegate’s planning for the 2019 General ensures all aspects of Kilimanjaro, climate change Assembly in Cyprus, the UIAA published a digital the UIAA’s activities are and Alpinism’s recognition by promoted in equal measure magazine. The resource proved useful as a guide to UNESCO. throughout the year. UIAA meetings and topics discussed during the GA. The news articles are shared The UIAA also supported more UIAA will endeavour to publish the magazine for the through newsletters, press regional advocacy, notably GA a little earlier in 2020. releases and social media. projects related to the Tatra The top ten most viewed news Past Annual Reports https://www.theuiaa.org/documents/members/ Mountains and Grampian articles from 2019 are listed in theuiaa.org/members UIAA_2019_GeneralAssembly_Guide_v1.pdf the Review of 2019. Mountains.
- 56 - - 57 - Membership & Organisation also open to UIAA member associations. Website Newsletters Below are some examples of close collaboration between the UIAA and its members in 2019: The UIAA website was last redesigned in In 2020, new developments in the pipeline The monthly UIAA newsletter, primarily targeted the autumn of 2016 and has undergone include: at members, provides all subscribers with the LOVING THE MOUNTAINS SINCE 1869 incremental updates ever since. latest, key news and updates from the UIAA. To GERMAN ALPINE CLUB (DAV) CELEBRATES ITS 150TH BIRTHDAY • A new layout for the UIAA home page subscribe to the newsletter please click here. https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/loving-the-mountains-since-1869-german-alpine-club-dav-celebrates-its- In 2019, developments included: • Simplification of the UIAA website 150th-birthday/ • Improvements to core pages and pages for Core Global Resources A revised Member Associations Directory which core projects The UIAA offers its members and the wider MEMBER PROFILE: CHINA HONG KONG MOUNTAINEERING & CLIMBING UNION provides more details about individual UIAA • A global UIAA calendar climbing and mountaineering community a https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/ members, their news, activities and serves as • A mis-use page for the UIAA Safety Label significant array of global resources, notably: member-profile-china-hong-kong-mountaineering-climbing-union/ a resource for members to share details on climbing in their country. The idea is to provide • Greater mobile responsiveness • Climber Safety advice Members with their own networking area. • Training and Skills Website statistics compared to 2018: AAC TO HOST 12TH INTERNATIONAL CLIMBERS’ MEET • International Calendars • The number of unique users increased by 23% https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/aac-to-host-12th-international-climbers-meet/ • Medical advice • The number of new users rose by 21% • Member Associations Directory • The number of visits rose by 19% Further details are provided in the dedicated • The number of page views increased by 12% FQME: 50 YEARS OF DISCOVERY AND EXCELLENCE REPORT BY chapters of this report. • https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/fqme-50-years-of-discovery-and-excellence/ The average session duration decreased by 7% PETER BOURNE Member Associations UIAA Communication Manager .sport The UIAA Communication team is always keen THE UIAA ON SOCIAL MEDIA The UIAA has signed an agreement with GAISF to share information about member association SLACKLINERS JOIN THE UIAA COMMUNITY - Global Association of International Sports activities. Please email [email protected] to https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/slackliners-join-the-uiaa-community/ Federations – in relation to its .sport programme. GKBCE share content. Likewise, any material produced The UIAA has been granted international rights by the UIAA is free of restrictions for members A Donate page where businesses, partners, for certain .sport domains. A number of these to use and share in their own publications and members and individuals – can support the may be offered to UIAA members. The UIAA across digital channels. Working together we UIAA AND DAV COLLABORATE ON SAFETY VIDEO PROJECT UIAA on a one-off or ongoing basis by donating will publish details of how members can join can provide the climbing and mountaineering https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/uiaa-and-dav-collaborate-on-safety-video-project/ to specific projects or causes. The resource is the programme in 2020. world with the information important to them. - 59 - Membership & Organisation
SPONSORING & PARTNERS Revenues from sponsorship account for about 30% of all UIAA income. The Bern office is continually exploring new sponsorship opportunities and means of approaching In sustainability, the 2020 and 2021 UIAA mountaineering. Sunday Afternoons continues Mountain Protection Awards will be partnered by to support the UIAA Respect the Mountains potential sponsors. Members of the Executive Board, Bally, the Swiss luxury fashion brand, founded in Movement. Commissions and Office staff were present at major 1851, with a pioneering heritage in climbing and international trade shows such as ISPO Beijing and Munich and Outdoor by ISPO to represent the UIAA and to build relationships with partners. Many of these meetings are detailed in individual chapters. FULL STORY UIAA AND BALLY ANNOUNCE PARTNERSHIP https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/uiaa-and-bally-announce-partnership/
Photos: © Bally/Samir Jung Thapa - 60 - - 61 - Membership & Organisation
UIAA SPONSORS PARTNERS BALLY OUTDOOR RESEARH PETZL FOUNDATION SUNDAY AFTERNOONS The UIAA partners with a theuiaa.org/ theuiaa.org/ice-climbing theuiaa.org/ the-uiaa-mountain-sustainability/ number of international mountain-protection-award/ mountain-qualification-label respect-the-mountains/ Outdoor Research is dedicated to inspiring organisations across its the journey ahead with innovative projects in safety, sport and technical apparel and accessories sustainability. designed for outdoor adventures. Outdoor Research is the Title Sponsor of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour PARTNERS 2019-2023.
ARISF GAISF ICAR IFMGA Association of IOC Recognised Global Association of International Commission International Federation of International Sport Federations International Sports Federations for Alpine Rescue Mountain Guides Associations
Recognised since 1995
by the International Olympic Committee (IOC)
MRI PEACE AND SPORT SPORT ACCORD UNE 10YFP Mountain Research peace-sport.org sportaccord.sport United Nations United Nations 10-Year YFP Initiative Environment Sustainable Tourism Programme - 62 - - 63 - Shutterstock Library Sustainability
The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission MOUNTAIN PROTECTION The protection of the mountain environment has always been a chief concern for the UIAA. Since
it was founded in 1969, fifty years ago, the UIAA The UIAA MPC believes all those Mountain Protection Commission (MPC) has who have a stake in the well-being worked to protect the mountains – one of the last of the mountain environment should collectively work to raise natural, unspoilt and free spaces on earth. The awareness about the fragile nature UIAA Mountain Protection Award Winner 2019 Commission’s goal is to ensure that mountains of the mountain ecosystems The Swiss Alpine Club’s (SAC) AlpineLearning will still be there to enjoy for future generations of and encourage responsible Project Weeks and sustainable behaviour and https://youtu.be/CztvRRuYZVw mountaineers and mountain people. practices. - 65 - Sustainability FLAGSHIP PROJECT:
UIAA MOUNTAIN Submissions for the 2019 UIAA Mountain THE 2019 AWARD WINNER Protection Award came from all corners of The Swiss Alpine Club’s (SAC) PROTECTION AWARD AlpineLearning Project Weeks was the globe, with 12 projects nominated. The confirmed as the seventh winner One of the UIAA’s principal activities in the field of mountain sustainability assessment was conducted by eight full and of the annual UIAA Mountain is its annual Mountain Protection Award - a platform designed to showcase, corresponding members of the UIAA Mountain Protection Award at the 2019 UIAA support and promote projects which strive to unite tourist, or other organisations General Assembly. to engage in protecting the mountain environment with mountain communities Protection Commission, together with eight and mountaineers. external experts. Categories for prizes include the overall winner, runner up winner, best new 7 These initiatives support local people, encourage economic growth, provide improvements initiative, and community choice award. to infrastructure, education and health services, promote the practice of sustainable climbing and mountaineering and have mountain protection at their core. Editions
OFFICIAL PRESS RELEASE ON WINNER OF 2019 UIAA MPA SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS https://www.theuiaa.org/members-area/general-assembly/ 118 alpinelearning-project-weeks-wins-2019-uiaa-mountain-protection-award/ The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission Federation of Mountain Guides Associations - and sustainability as part of daily professional has ensured that in the design of the two key on the Sustainability Guidelines will ensure the work, the MPC also offers the UIAA and all Projects mountain protection and sustainability projects UIAA also responds to the priorities and stated its members representation and opportunity at the UIAA – the MPA and the RtM global needs that member delegates expressed in to “carry their voices” at these important movement - there are explicit provisions and the survey the UIAA MPC undertook in early spaces for advocacy and representation, able ABOUT ALPINELEARNING 2019 AWARD SHOWCASE mechanisms in place to support and encourage 2018 that were reported in its findings in late to present their ideas and concerns on their 31 PROJECT WEEKS https://www.theuiaa.org/ the participation of UIAA members to not only 2018 (“Sustainability is one of our core values!” behalf. As always, the MPC is also available https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/ mountain-protection- showcase their initiatives, but also participate the UIAA & IFMGA 2018 Environmental to provide all UIAA members professional alpinelearningproject/ award/2019-uiaa-mountain- Countries and be eligible for the prizes, resources and Survey). Given the Commission delegates’ advice on environmental sustainability issues protection-award/ exposure on offer to promote their work. The extensive and active engagement in several or concerns, as the need or request arises.
- 66 - current joint work with IFMGA - International global platforms and initiatives on mountains - 67 - Sustainability MPA ASSESSMENT TEAM RESPECT THE COMMISSION MEMBERS GLOBAL Carolina Adler, Phd MOUNTAINS PARTNERSHIPS Maretha Alant (RTM) GLOBAL In 2019, focus was directed Jan Ivar Bøe MOVEMENT to enhancing the existing Valeska Buchemi De Oliveira collaboration with the IFMGA Environmental Commission, Steve Goodwin For the RtM global movement, the Mountain A total of 19 initiatives were promoted, flagging the opportunity to Photo: Bally/Samir Jung Thapa Protection Commission initiated and advised Mike Maunsell collectively 74 events worldwide. An estimated continue to pursue the joint the UIAA at the 2018 General Assembly that project on sustainability Amin Moein total of 5,000 participants were involved in these the concept needed to be changed in 2019 to guidelines in 2020. The events in 2019. Joop Spijker accommodate better for limited resources and MPA 2019 also provided an to also shift from a ‘clean-up’ reactive initiative, NEW PARTNERSHIP: The results based on this experience with this opportunity for continued EXTERNAL EXPERTS AND UIAA to a more proactive global movement that changed approached will be evaluated by the engagement and exchange with PARTNERS BALLY AND THE UIAA centres on education for waste minimisation and Commission who will seek feedback from those our network of external experts. management. Björn Alfthan Shortly after the confirmation of the 2019 UIAA Mountain Protection Award that participated by sharing their events online, Other key partnerships created winner – Swiss Alpine Club’s AlpineLearning (AlpenLernen) Project Weeks – an The suggested approach for 2019 was to first in order to adapt and come up with new ideas Alton C. Byers, Phd and fostered in 2019 include the exciting announcement was made regarding the future of the project. focus on generating and providing an online for a new concept in the coming years. The MoU with UN Environment, which Stuart Gray calendar of events and initiatives that not only support of Sunday Afternoons and the external The 2020 and 2021 UIAA MPAs will be partnered by Bally, the Swiss luxury facilitates and ensures that the experts in the MPA, as well as the partnerships Matthias Jurek fashion brand, founded in 1851, with a pioneering heritage in climbing and address waste management but also focus on UIAA is supported in its efforts to mountaineering. education, providing an opportunity to inform with IFMGA and UN Environment, are also pursue projects and initiatives on Leif Inge Magnussen, Phd the broader community about these events for sources of important expertise and insights from mountain protection, supported by Jorge Recharte Full story: their consideration and participation and also whom the Commission can count on to improve the technical and global reach and https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/uiaa-and-bally-announce-partnership/ showcase the individual initiatives of those and expand the RtM global movement concept legitimacy of organisations such as Marjorie Van Strien hosting events and projects. in 2020 and beyond. UN Environment.
- 68 - Gabriela Wülser - 69 - Sustainability ANNUAL COMMISSION MEETING
Other key partnerships have This year’s Mountain Commission on discussions and the General Assembly on the INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN DAY: been supported and negotiated Protection Commission decisions taken at Management new UIAA strategy and the with key financial and in-kind meeting took place in Baku, Committee meeting held a week financial model to support DEDICATED ARTICLES donors such as Sunday Azerbaijan on 9 May 2019, earlier in Malta. This included Commissions, making this a For International Mountain Day, 11 December, the UIAA published a series of Afternoons and Bally, the latter following an invitation confirmation of the Vice President difficult environment in which to articles dedicated to its longstanding work on climate change. providing substantial financial from Commission member role for Michael Maunsell prioritise and plan effectively for support, details of which were and FAIREX representative (Mountaineering Ireland, MI) future work. A key conclusion unveiled at the GA in Cyprus, Hussein Bagirov. and new full member Dr Ganesh reached by the Commission was to support the development Gurung (Nepal Mountaineering to commit to find clarity at the HISTORY OF THE MPC of the current MPA into a The meeting took place at the Association, NMA). General Assembly in Cyprus, platform that offers broader new campus facilities of the when the full details and debate To celebrate the 50 years of the UIAA Mountain Protection incentive for participation and Commission (MPC) in 2019, the UIAA took a trip through the Mountain Culture and Landscape Other key discussion points on the proposed future strategic that adequately acknowledges Research Institute, Western direction should be decided with archives to select ten stories from the Commission’s proud history. and rewards initiatives and best centered on the assessment Caspian University, with online members. https://www.theuiaa.org/home/fifty-years-of-the-uiaa-mountain- practices. connection to those members process for the MPA for 2019, as protection-commission/ Professor Bagirov, MPC delegate and UIAA Office staff who well as budget consideration for could not attend in person. Six and host to the meeting, also future work and projects such as delegates were present in Baku presented on the state of UIAA FOUNDER MEMBER OF SEA TO SUMMIT with another three joining online. the sustainability guidelines. mountain tourism and recreation in Azerbaijan, highlighting The IOC announced the launch of the Mountain Summit – a group The meeting was chaired by A key area of concern for the some of the key challenges of sports organisations concerned with the current state of the Commission President Carolina Commission, and discussion regarding increasing tourism world’s mountains and committed to protecting them. Adler, recalling the minutes of point at the meeting, was the development in the country, while the previous meeting held in perceived uncertainty and lack of maintaining and aspiring towards https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/from-sea-to-summit-ioc-launches- 2018 in the UK. A report from strategic clarity and differentiated environmental and cultural sports-group-featuring-uiaa-to-protect-mountains/ Helene Denis, UIAA Executive expectations expressed by the values that align with broader Board link, updated the UIAA Board and MC versus sustainable development. - 70 - Photo: Protect our Winters - 71 - Sustainability
In December 2018, the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) and the UIAA PROJECTS HELD UP AS International Olympic Committee (IOC) co-launched the new Sports for Climate Action Framework and defined the role of sport in the worldwide fight for climate change. The UN Sports for Climate Action Framework SUSTAINABILITY MODELS UIAA PROJECTS RECOGNISED AS aims to help sports organisations reduce emissions caused by their operations and leverage the worldwide In December 2018, the United Nations IF’s sustainability initiatives, which are SUSTAINABILITY MODELS popularity of sport to engage millions of fans in the effort. Framework Convention on Climate to identify common topics, challenges https://www.theuiaa.org/home/ Change (UNFCCC) and the International and good practices. One outcome was uiaa-projects-held-up-as- Olympic Committee (IOC) co-launched a series of cases studies demonstrating sustainability-models/ the new Sports for Climate Action how IF’s are contributing to a more UIAA STATEMENT ON CLIMATE CHANGE Framework and defined the role of sustainable world. sport in the worldwide fight for climate Carbon Footprint The impact of climate change on mountain regions was one of the core topics Calculation Report: change. The UN Sports for Climate The UIAA has been recognised by the discussed at the 2019 UIAA General Assembly (GA) in Cyprus. The UIAA issued a Action Framework aims to help sports IOC for its commitment to sustainability https://www.theuiaa.org/ statement reflecting this. This scope of the statement was to provide a summary of the organisations reduce emissions caused and features both in the official Sports documents/sustainability/2018_ UIAA’s longstanding commitment to the protection of the mountain environment and UIAA_Carbon_Footprint_ by their operations and leverage the for Climate Action brochure and as a climate action, and its future goals. Calculation_Final.pdf worldwide popularity of sport to engage dedicated case study paper about https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/statement-uiaa-and-climate-change/ millions of fans in the effort. the Respect the Mountains Movement (RTM). The initiative, which started in 2015 IF Sustainability Case Studies: Sport in all its forms is increasingly forms part of the UIAA’s longstanding threatened by climate change. The commitment to sustainability and https://www.theuiaa.org/ UIAA PUBLISHES FIRST CARBON FOOTPRINT CALCULATION documents/sustainability/IOC- increasing lack of snow during mountain protection. Initially an event SPORTS-FOR-CLIMATE- based initiative that championed a As part of its commitment to tackling climate change and reducing its own CO2 winter, unpredictable heatwaves and ACTION.pdf emissions, the UIAA has published its first annualCarbon Footprint Calculation. rising sea levels are among the issues clean-up operation alongside education seriously affecting athletes, event and awareness (some 1,500 volunteers This report, covering 2018, outlines the ongoing results of monitoring and reporting organisers and spectators. collected 7.5 tonnes of waste during IF Sustainability Project RTM: of the UIAA’s carbon footprint, which is in response to its signed commitment in early its 18 events between 2016-2018) has https://www.theuiaa.org/ 2019 and participation under the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate The International Olympic Committee since gone global as an international documents/sustainability/ Change (UNFCCC) Sports for Climate Action. (IOC) launched the International movement which likeminded projects IOC-UIAA-RESPECT-THE- Federation (IF) Sustainability Project in from across the globe can join through https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/uiaa-publishes-2018-carbon-footprint-calculation/ MOUNTAINS.pdf 2016 in order to obtain an overview of an international calendar. - 72 - - 73 - Swiss Alpine Club: AlpineLearning Project Weeks
Sustainability
2019: EVENTS ATTENDED REPORT BY The Mountain Protection Commission was represented and participated at the following events, conferences and meetings in 2019: DR CAROLINA ADLER UIAA Mountain Protection Commission President [email protected] • MOUNTAIN PARTNERSHIP STEERING COMMITTEE MEETING 26-27 March, Rome, Italy KEY LINKS Mountain Protection • 4TH UNWTO EURO-ASIAN MOUNTAIN TOURISM CONFERENCE 2-5 March, Berchtesgaden, Germany Respect the Mountains Mountain Protection Award • UNESCO CHAIR MEETING 29 April, Naters, Switzerland MOUNTAIN PROTECTION COMMISSION MEMBERSHIP 2020: As confirmed by the UIAA Management Committee in • INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON “MOUNTAINS: CULTURES, LANDSCAPES, AND Cyprus (November 2019) BIODIVERSITY” THE YEAR AHEAD 10-12 May, Baku, Azerbaijan FULL MEMBERS The Mountain Protection Commission looks forward to Dr Carolina ADLER (President), New Zealand (NZAC) • IPCC SPECIAL REPORT ON THE OCEAN AND CRYOSPHERE IN A CHANGING Michael MAUNSELL, Ireland (MI) (Vice-President) CLIMATE continuing to fulfil its commitment to the MPA and RtM Hussein BAGIROV, Azerbaijan (FAIREX) September, Monaco projects as key priorities in its portfolio, not least given the Stephen GOODWIN, UK (BMC) Ganesh GURUNG, Nepal (NMA) • UNFCCC SPORTS FOR CLIMATE ACTION SIGNATORY MEETING support provided by Bally and the expected step change Amin MOEIN, Iran (IMSCF) 18 September, IOC Lausanne, Switzerland Mahmood Almad SHAH, India (IMF) in evolving the concepts and their implementation. The Joop SPIJKER, The Netherlands (NKBV) • IF FORUM SUSTAINABILITY SESSION MPC will look to the results achieved in 2019 and use 30 October, Lausanne, Switzerland, October these as basis for further development and improvement CORRESPONDING MEMEBRS Maretha ALANT, South Africa (MCSA) of the projects’ concepts and implementation in 2020. • MOUNTAIN SUMMIT WORKING GROUP, FIRST MEETING Ahmed AUPAR, Bangladesh (BMF) 31 October, Lausanne, Switzerland Lode BECKERS, Belgium (CMBEL) In 2020, the MPC can also expect to participate at COP26 Jan Ivar BOE, Norway (NTK) • COP25 Irena MRAK, Solvenia (PZS) December, Madrid, Spain to be held in Glasgow, Scotland in November. Valeska Buchemi OLIVEIRA, Brazil (CBME) - 74 - - 75 - Photo: UIAA Safety
Medical Advice Papers
Medical & high-altitude 31 advice papers
Different 13 languages 2019 UIAA Medical Commission Meeting Medical Commission 2019 UIAA
172 High-altitude papers UIAA Medical Commission in total MOUNTAIN MEDICINE The mission of the UIAA Medical Commission is to give the best possible advice through its network of doctoral-level mountain medicine experts, advice pages, the International Diploma in Mountain Medicine, and the dissemination of papers, translated into over ten languages. Many members are active teachers in their Promo: UIAA MedCom High-Altitude Papers respective countries. https://youtu.be/ZzmU0cQ8psA
- 76 - - 77 - Library Photo: Stock Safety Projects Annual Commission Meeting SUPPORT • International Diploma EXECUTIVE • As part of the International Diploma Administrative Group, three 7-8 November 2019 of the UIAA MedCom members work with ICAR (International FOR UIAA Commission for Alpine Rescue) MedCom and the International Bolzano, Italy SUMMARY OF 2019 Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) to administer the The UIAA Medical Commission was hosted by EURAC Research. international UIAA/ ICAR/ISMM Diploma of Mountain Medicine. Achievements MEMBERS Alongside five invited guest speakers,16 MedCom members met in • Library of recommendations The UIAA MedCom provides a range of services for Translations of MedCom recommendations are still Bolzano to discuss membership and involvement of the commission, • Translation of papers still in progress. both UIAA members and the wider mountaineering ongoing. This includes: while also planning and preparing future advice papers. The discussions community. Its high-altitude advice papers are Continuation and progress on papers about dental emergencies highlighted the need to address advice and recommendations both to internationally respected and the fruits of years of during trekking or expeditions; malaria prevention for climbers; the general public and physicians/experts. Safety being a key topic for the prevention of altitude illness; minimal standards for safety in mountaineers, the UIAA through its work of MedCom plays an important research compiled by Commission representatives from artificial hypoxia; and diabetes and mountaineering. role in making mountaineering even more interesting and especially safer. UIAA member associations worldwide. Events attended Partnerships Translated into 13 languages they are a valuable resource which in 2019 Challenges Through the leadership of the newly ended with an organized visit of the Momentarily, the Urs Hefti attended the 2019 Among the major challenges and requests made to MedCom elected Commission President, Dr Urs extreme environmental simulator can be shared through member association communication closest cooperation UIAA Management Committee is the checking of the quality of a commercially organised trek Hefti, and in collaboration with EURAC channels. This expertise provides a broad range of mountain “terraXcube”. EURAC spring meeting in Malta, Research a joint symposium on “Altitude is with , less or expedition. A paper has been published and updated, but users – gap year travellers, novice climbers, experienced where he was officially elected pre-exposure for inducing climbers’ The Commission will meet only briefly with ISMM (although it remains a topic of discussion at meetings. Bridging the gap mountaineers and those with specific medical considerations President of MedCom. The joint acclimation: is it effective, ethical and between physicians/experts and the general public in terms of in 2020, alongside the ISMM Congress many Commission meeting between Commission legal?” was held on the second day of the – with potentially life-saving information. Furthermore, the sound advice and recommendations made remains a challenge. in Interlaken and plans to meet for members will attend Presidents and especially with meeting. UIAA International Diploma in Mountain Medicine helps several days again in 2021, gathering the Management Committee improve knowledge and increase expertise amongst medical their congress in Furthermore, it would be helpful for MedCom to know what the The topic was discussed from for the first time in Africa – a joint gave him a sound understanding practitioners across the world. UIAA members are reminded 2020) and constant of the value and contribution UIAA and its members are interested in and what topics have yet viewpoints of a scientist, an expedition project with the University of Zurich, of MedCom to the UIAA and its operator, a climber, a lawyer and a the local University in Kampala and to reach out to UIAA MedCom with requests or topics they collaboration with to be covered. members. UIAA representative. The meeting UIAA MedCom. Work is in progress. wish to be covered. ICAR.
- 78 - - 79 - Key Links Safety UIAA Medical Commission UIAA High-Altitude Papers UIAA Diploma in Mountain Medicine REPORT BY
URS HEFTI President, UIAA Medical Commission
MEMBERS CORRESPONDING MEMBERS Urs HEFTI (President), Switzerland (SAC) Giancelso AGAZZI, Italy Thomas KUEPPER (Vice President), Germany (DAV) Marija ANDJELKOVIC, Serbia, (UIAA Anti-Doping Commission) Erhan ALEMDAR, Turkey (TDF) Corrado ANGELINI, Italy Jae Yong AHN, Korea (KAF) Buddha BASNYAT , Nepal (HRA) AliReza BEHPOUR, Iran (IMSCF) Hermann BRUGGER, ISMM Pierre BOUZAT, France (FFCAM) Nenad DIKIC, Serbia, (UIAA Anti-Doping Commission) 2020 THE YEAR AHEAD – Sundeep DILLON, UK (BMC) Dominique JEAN, France (ISMM) Anil GURTOO, India (IMF) David HILLEBRANDT, UK (BMC) Alexandra KOUKOUTSI, Greece PRIORITIES Norihiro KAMIKOMAKI, Japan (JMSCA) Johan HOLMGREN, Sweden (SKF) Hidenori KANAZAWA, Japan (DiMM) The possibility of creating videos and/or mountain medicine groups around the world Furthermore, the UIAA must define which Kaste MATEIKAITE, Lithuania (LMA) Shigeru MASUYAMA, Japan (JMSCA) Heleen MEIJER, Netherlands (NKBV) e-learning manuals based on the advice as well as increasing its efforts to spread the questions must be answered or processed John MCCALL, Canada (ACC) Audry MORRISON, UK (BMC) papers was discussed during the in-person Commission’s message to those areas of by the UIAA MedCom. A clear strategy in this Ludomir MLADENOV, Bulgaria (BCMF) Peter PAAL, Austria (OGAHM) meeting in Bolzano. A key aim for the the world in most need of medical advice. A Patrick PETERS, Luxembourg (FLERA) Miguel REIS E SILVA, Portugal (FCMP) year ahead is to continue the success the 2021 meeting in Uganda should provide an respect is missing. George RODWAY, USA (AAC) Alison ROSIER, United States Commission has achieved with further excellent opportunity. While the Commission Giulio Sergio ROI, Italy (ISF) On its side, MedCom must be more active Ivan ROTMAN, Czech Republic (CMF) publication of MedCom advice papers most has a close contact with the UIAA Office, it is Nima Namgyel SHERPA, Nepal (NMA) in its core businesses such as prevention, Volker SCHOEFFL, Germany (DAV) likely in the fields of dental emergencies of great importance that the UIAA supports Sonam Zangbu SHERPA, Nepal (NMA) training and education. A core team of a few Rianne VAN DE SPEK, Netherlands (NKBV) Daniel TREVENA, Australia (NZAC) during trekking and expedition, malaria MedCom more closely. It is becoming very active members should be supported Marieke VAN VESSEM, Netherlands (NKBV) Eckart VON DELFT, South Africa (MCSA) prevention for climbers and the prevention of increasingly difficult for the MedCom to to fulfil these tasks. Eduardo Garrigos VINHAES, Brazil (CBME) Shih-Hao WANG, Taiwan (CTAA) altitude illness. The Commission will continue conduct professional work without greater Emma Linnea WICHARDT, Norway (NTK) Jeremy WINDSOR, United Kingdom (BMC) to reach out and co-operate with other financial and logistical support. - 80 - - 81 - Safety
Ten things to consider when buying climbing gear https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/uiaa-advice-ten-things- ANCHOR CORROSION to-consider-when-buying-climbing-gear/ PROJECT
Over recent years the subject of corrosion has been a significant concern for the research arm of the UIAA Safety Commission Is your equipment really certified? (SafeCom). Commission members and external experts have invested significant time and resources into collecting data from https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/ is-your-equipment-really-certified/ climbers and running analysis of samples of faulty anchors. A guide to the UIAA Safety Label https://youtu.be/Cfwd9h3T-7s The UIAA has coordinated this analysis to create a Google Map of known corrosion locations. This map is intended as a reference to identify areas where examples of corrosion have been logged. It is designed only as an informative guide based on data received and assessed. There is an ongoing investigation by UIAA SafeCom into the reasons behind these multiple failures.
Two related articles were published in Corrosion, The Journal of Science and Engineering https://corrosionjournal.org/doi/full/10.5006/3227 Safety SafeCom 24 Standards and https://corrosionjournal.org/doi/full/10.5006/3242. An update of the Standard is expected in 2020. MOUNTAIN SAFETY SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS The UIAA, through its Safety Commission, supports Safety Label Holders 71 climbers and mountaineers in their goal of managing the from 23 countries Resources provided by the UIAA Safety making choices about how they climb and the inherent risks of their activities. This objective is achieved Commission, such as the development of equipment they use. Resources are free for by establishing excellent equipment Standards, together with international Standards, granting of UIAA all members to share on their own channels. Safety Labels, research into safety issues Research conducted by the Commission has a recommendations concerning the correct use of this equipment and publication of key advice messages are direct benefit for all climbers worldwide. and the granting of Safety Labels to manufacturers whose Safety Labels +2000 granted in 2019 designed to improve climber safety and offer products meet UIAA Standards. climbers greater access to information in The official logo of the UIAA Safety Label - 82 - - 83 - Safety
SAFE UIAA AND DAV COLLABORATION PROJECT
How to belay with the Grigri How to belay with the Click Up How to Handle Soft Belaying How to belay with weight difference In 2019 UIAA and the German Alpine Club (DAV) teamed up to produce a series https://youtu.be/BAxY-BBSlGc https://youtu.be/UiXADkRctrQ https://youtu.be/bO1DkxEIavc https://youtu.be/06qEtYuUVq0 of twelve videos designed to help improve climber’s belay technique. Originally CLIMB produced by the DAV, the videos have recently been translated into English following collaboration with the UIAA Safety Commission and UIAA Training Panel.
The principal focus is different and the important messages about belaying techniques and the safety covered in these features. instructor in the video is Christoph Furthermore, the project has helped Hummel, a member of both the further discussions between a number DAV Safety Research department of Commissions in the UIAA and the How to belay with the Ergo/ATC Pilot How to belay with the Fish How to belay with the Jul² How to belay with the ATC (*) and Corresponding Member of the DAV about further collaboration.” https://youtu.be/rKOLqBb5P1Q https://youtu.be/KTMvVk5l-pU https://youtu.be/RpX8o8nAPN4 https://youtu.be/H1pjGl4gs0A UIAA Safety Commission, who spearheaded the initiative. (*) How to belay with the ATC “This project is the fruit of excellent This video is also available but comes with an collaboration between the UIAA advisory. Please refer to the UIAA website. and one of our largest member associations,” explains Nils Glatthard, “This project is the fruit of excellent UIAA Director of Operations. “Making these videos available in English How to belay with the Smart Slack Rope Partner Check collaboration between the UIAA and one and through the UIAA’s international https://youtu.be/YxrKmGnRiHE https://youtu.be/5tsCbimxDnY https://youtu.be/dSwb9RBG5TY of our largest member associations.” network will help increase awareness
- 84 - - 85 - Safety REPORT FROM ANNUAL WORKING 2020: COMMISSION MEETING GROUPS THE YEAR AHEAD REPORT BY
The Annual Commission meeting was test laboratories showed that the new type of Current Working Group research includes helmet rim impact The Commission has set high AMIT CHOWDHURY held in Malta on 5 May hosted by the EAS sets complied very closely with the new UIAA Safety Commission President testing, where a maximum impact force of 8kN had been standards in terms of its goals Malta Climbing Club. EN 958:2017 and UIAA 128. chosen. Continuing research is needed with test helmets for the next four years. Their including foam models, and results will be taken from round FURTHER READINGS Alexandre VELHINHO, Portugal (FPME) The meeting opened with a review of the Anchor corrosion is an important topic for goals include revising all 24 UIAA Safety Label robin tests at laboratories. SafeCom welcomed two guest CORRESPONDING MEMBERS events attended by SafeCom: Friedrichshafen all climbers, and a comprehensive update UIAA standards, and setting Safety Standards presentations, one from the International Commission for Marc BEVERLY, USA Outdoor 2018, ISPO Beijing 2019 and looking was given by Lionel Kiener, SafeCom Vice UIAA Safety Label Holders Alpine Rescue (ICAR) and one from International Slackline ten new UIAA standards, as Frederico CAMPOS MARTINS DOS forward to Outdoor Munich ISPO July 2019. President. Kiener remarked that the problem Certified Equipment SANTOS, Brazil (CBME) Association (ISA). A close relationship is developing with well as devising a marketing was not confined just to stress corrosion Recalls Christoph HUMMEL, Germany (DAV) ICAR with representatives of the UIAA and ICAR regularly campaign to encourage Augustin MOINAT, UK (ISA) The Plenary Commission, 6-7 May, welcomed cracking (SCC) but also ‘environmental Accredited UIAA Laboratories attending each other’s annual meetings. ISA presented Hitoshi ONODERA, Japan (JMSCA) degradation’. Phase one of the corrosion UIAA member associations 30 of the leading manufactures for climbing Agustin UNSAIN, Argentina (FASA) their activities and information on the types of equipment SAFETY COMMISSION MEMBERSHIP tests on sample anchors has been completed. to spread awareness among Da Chai WANG, Chinese Taipei (CTMA) used in slacklining. and mountaineering gear, five UIAA Work has now been started on the second As confirmed by the UIAA Management Thomas WEDLICK, USA (AAC) their membership about Committee accredited laboratories and ten international phase, which uses a purpose-built titanium New Working Groups are set to propose future standards the importance of the UIAA in Cyprus (November 2019) test tank (paid for by the UIAA) to subject experts to discuss Working Group research, samples to aggressive hot chemical salt tests. for the following areas; Prusiks, Static Ropes, Trekking Poles Safety Label, what the UIAA MEMBERS updates to Standards, accident reports Amit CHOWDHURY The bolt type test samples are mounted on and Rigging Plates. Safety Label represents, the (President), India (IMF) involving equipment failure and other current granite blocks, to induce stresses. Complete research and collaboration of Lionel KIENER, (Vice President) Work started by CAI (Italian Alpine Club) regarding safety related topics. anchors made of various materials are being global experts, manufacturers, Switzerland (SAC) tested. When this test work is finalised, it will avalanche probes is continuing. First stage work on the Kevin BROWN, Canada (ACC) and accredited laboratories Important work of the UIAA concerning the offer the possibility to specify test procedures standard for Ice Climbing structures has been completed Per FORSBERG, Sweden (SCF) who work together to make Nicholas GALPIN, UK (BMC) ‘Alpin’ Magazine article regarding new VF EAS for the proposed five classes of anchor. This and feedback is pending from the Ice Climbing Commission. Alan JARVIS, South Africa (MCSA) equipment safer for the sets (April 2018) was presented. The overall will help the end user choose the correct class Meanwhile, SafeCom is beginning its collaboration with Alexis MALLON, France (FFCAM) outcome of all the tests conducted by UIAA of anchor for a particular location. the International Federation of Canyoning. climbing community. Ali SAHIN, Turkey (TDF)
- 86 - - 87 - Photo: Steve Long
Safety
The UIAA Mountaineering Commission MOUNTAINEERING The expansion and development of the Training Panel programme is a key priority for the Mountaineering DONATE: Commission. This includes work on the implementation and diffusion of the digital version of the Alpine Handbook Financial support for climbing (see chapter on Training) and a new administration system for UIAA members. Throughout 2019, the Commission was Support the UIAA, its members and partners in delivering international projects which make a difference. engaged in a number of subjects including topics related to ethics and liability insurances. The Commission promotes best practices by identifying and addressing technical, training, legal, access and ethical issues of international https://www.theuiaa.org/donate importance. As of 2019, the Access Commission became integrated into Mountaineering Commission.
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ETHICS The Ethics and Values Working Group 2019 MEETINGS (formerly TVWG – Traditional Values Working Group) is investigating the March KEY ACHIEVEMENTS definition of climbing and mountaineering Novi Sad, Serbia , hosted by the Mountaineering Association of Serbia styles and associated ethics, sustainability, (MAS) MountCom is looking into the option of providing federations and their clubs with the option of acquiring ISO Full report here 21101 certification at a reduced cost. best practice and environmental impact.
This is of value in other areas of MountCom’s This Standard outlines the requirements of bodies and larger clubs – particularly those that The MountCom Annual Training Seminar, October work, including the Tyrol Declaration, provide training, coaching and mentorship. a safety management system for adventure which was held in Hong Kong for club coaches Hong Kong, hosted by the China Hong Kong Mountaineering and Management of the High Mountains of the tourism activity providers and was established and trainers, addressed training priorities Climbing Union (CHKMCU) In training (see dedicated pages), leadership World, and for the UIAA and federations to by private outdoor activity companies in and course design for hiking, climbing and and rescue training were provided in India Full report here Europe. The standard covers guidelines, ascertain best and acceptable practice. and Mongolia, with the long-term aim to canyoning. These seminars are a useful and procedures and good practices for all create qualifications that are eligible for UIAA valuable forum for sharing and discussing best activities that clubs and federations undertake, SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS accreditation, and personal skills training practice, skills and safety with world experts with a view to preventing accidents and has been piloted in Indonesia, Kenya and and at an international level. Training activities receive more and more PARTNERSHIPS improved understanding and management of Mongolia. interest from many UIAA associations and The UIAA continues to collaborate with the is an agreement for future promotion of members’ and group activities. The benefits Other projects which continue to develop represent the “core business” of MountCom. training courses and the handbook using the include a demonstration of professionalism Petzl Foundation on the Alpine Handbook, The second edition of the UIAA Alpine Summer including a thorough study of mountaineering services of Red Wolf. They represent also a very effective way to and commitment to safety, lower insurance who has also funded training in Mongolia. Skills Handbook has just been completed, with accidents and near misses. Documents and premiums, and may prove extremely valuable involve new associations joining the UIAA MountCom continues in partnership with The Himalayan Club meanwhile, in data are currently being analysed. in legal cases. As such, it will be a prized a new section that covers traditional climbing and to spread awareness about safe practices SafeCom to produce training videos which coordination with the UIAA has funded certificate for national federations, training and additions to Alpine skills. concerning climbing and mountaineering. are available on the UIAA website. There training programmes in India.
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Access Commission Report ACCESS-RELATED MEETINGS LOOKING AHEAD 2020 During the Malta MC meetings, it was decided that The Commission plans to have a fully functioning database which will allow management the Access Commission would be integrated into the of walking, climbing and mountaineering training, accreditation, courses and seminars. ACCESS AND Mountaineering Commission. The Personal Skills training programme will be The Canadian Alpine Club has created an online EXPEDITION WG The Access members convened in Malta to define launched as well as a promotional campaign directory and booking system for its mountain its future and directed the following topics to the for training and potentially the ISO Certification. huts. MountCom is investigating how their system The Commission will continue to promote safety MISSION STATEMENT Mountaineering President: and best practices amongst agencies in high can be adopted to create a global booking system • How to develop future work mountain regions, while work will continue on for mountain huts – like an AirBnB for climbers – The mission of the UIAA Access Working Group is to globally ALPINISM AS the Alpine Handbook. promote the idea of responsible free access to mountains • Role of Access WG members of the Commission and will be inviting federations to become part of environments to mountain users. AN INTANGIBLE • How to work together within the Mountaineering this project. UNESCO WORLD The UIAA Access WG also supports requests for action and assistance Commission by UIAA member federations, especially requests by new member HERITAGE The Mountaineering Commission held its second federations. On 11 December 2019, Alpinism PETER FARKAS RECEIVES OLYMPIC MEDAL meeting of 2019 in October and the Access President and Mountaineering President then met for a second was officially recognised by While there were still 290 days to go until the next summer Olympic Games in Tokyo UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural take place – where 339 gold medals will be awarded – a member of the UIAA family time during the GA in Cyprus to coordinate future Heritage of Humanity. attended his own Olympic medal ceremony on 2 October in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. actions. This included: UIAA Mountaineering Commission President Peter Farkas (pictured right), The UIAA supported this initiative • Setting a first Access WG meeting to prepare former UIAA Vice President, received a gold medal from the Mongolian National through its honorary member Claude future, actions, projects Olympic Committee as recognition for his ‘contribution to the development of Eckhardt and member associations in Mongolian sport’. This included his instrumental role in bringing the Mongolian • Joining if possible, the EUMA Access Workshop France, Italy and Switzerland. National Climbing Federation (MNCF) into the UIAA. The MNCF hosted and continuing UIAA Access meetings a very successful edition of the UIAA General Assembly in October 2018. The full article can be found here. • Joining future Mountaineering Commission meetings
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REPORT BY Laza POPARA, Serbia (PSS) Nelson BRUGGER, Brazil (CBME) Laura SAMSO, Spain (FEDME) Esteban DEGREGORI, Argentina (FASA) Doug SCOTT, UK (BMC) SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS PETER FARKAS Hamidreza IZADI, Iran (IMSCF) Matjas SERKEZI, Slovenia (PZS) Mountaineering Commission President Hitoshi ONODERA, Japan (JMSCA) Shirman SO, CHKMCU (Hong Kong) Throughout 2019 the Access WG Slovakia (JAMES), to lobby against Nepal regulations Boyan PETROV, Bulgaria (BCMF) Jiri VOGEL, Czech Republic (CMF) Joao Paulo QUEIROS, Portugal (FCMP) the measure. The authorities then Phil WICKENS, UK (BMC) continued to support and provide The Government established JUAN JESUS IBANEZ MARTIN Richard Grant SHERRY, South Africa (MCSA) agreed to a period of consultation Frederick YU, CHKMCU (Hong Kong) a new set of rules for Everest Access Working Group President Brian STEPHENSON, New Zealand (NZAC) information regarding issues in and negotiation. summits (age, physical attributes, different regions: CORRESPONDING MEMBERS EXPEDITIONS experience). Close contact was KEY LINKS Pedro CUICA, Portugal (FCMP) Mont Blanc, (France) Mahmood HASHEMI, Iran (IMSCF) Tatras NP, (Slovakia) established with the Nepal https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering Klara DVORAKOVA-HAVLIKOVA, Due to overcrowding in the Mountaineering Association. This Czech Republic (CMLA) MOUNTAINEERING COMMISSION MEMBERSHIP LEGAL EXPERTS WORKING GROUP An important restriction was Mont Blanc region, authorities is an ongoing situation. Rafael GRIBEL, Brazil (CBME) As confirmed by the UIAA Management Committee – Mahmood HASHEMI, Iran (IMSCF) imposed by the authorities. The established a regulation to control Cyprus (November 2019) Hamed HAVALEHDAR NEJAD, Iran (IMSCF) MEMBERS Access Commission worked with summit attempts. The UIAA Access Seyed Mahmoud MIRNOURI LANGEROUDI, Iran Klara DVORAKOVA-HAVLIKOVA (Chair), the UIAA member federation in WG followed this subject closely. MEMBERS (IMSCF) Czech Republic (CMLA) Peter FARKAS (President), Hungary (MHSSz) Xabier EZEIZABARRENA, Spain (EMF) Pavlos GEORGIADES, Cyprus (CMCF), Vice-President ACCESS WORKING GROUP Damjan OMERZU, Slovenia (PZS) Mike GALBRAITH (Secretary), Canada (ACC) Edward EVERETT VAILL, USA (AAC) 2020 Andreas ANDREOU, Cyprus (CMCF) Chiaki AOYAMA, Japan (JMA) MEMBERS CORRESPONDING MEMBERS THE YEAR AHEAD Roman BRYK, Russia (RMF) Juan Jesus IBANEZ MARTIN, Anna GILLOOLY, New Zealand (NZAC) Debraj DUTTA, India (IMF) Spain (FEDME), President Dr Dominik KOCHOLL Xabier EZEIZABARRENA, Spain (EMF) Lode BECKERS, Belgium (CMBEL) The 33rd Access Commission meeting will be held in 2020. The preference is Gerald LANNING, New Zealand (NZAC) Ron FUNDERBURKE, USA (AAC) Hank HWANG, Chinese Taipei (CTMA) Matt MAGKILL, New Zealand (NZAC) to join an Access Workshop organised by EUMA in May. Topics will include: Nona KALADADZE, Georgia (MCAG) Sudhir KRISHNANKUTTY, India (IMF) Carla MILIONI, Brazil (CBME) Krishan KUMAR, India (IMF) Milosz JODLOWSKI, Poland (PZA) • Integration into the Mountaineering Commission, relaunch of activities. Patrick LAMARQUE, France (FFCAM) Mehdi SOHEIL FARID, Iran (IMSCF) • Increase restrictions around the world, is a UIAA Strategy required? Steve LONG, UK (BMC) Jordi MAGRINA GUELL, Spain (FEEC) CORRESPONDING MEMBERS • Access knowledge or guidelines to follow in case of restrictions. Darko MRSNIK, Croatia (HPS) Hussein BAGIROV, Azerbaijan (FAIREX) Signar Andre NILSEN, Norway (NTK) Jack BERGIN, Ireland (MI) - 94 - - 95 - Photo: Steve Long Safety
Every year for more than a decade, the UIAA 2019 IN REVIEW Training Panel (TP) has reported having experienced a busy year. PRACTICAL TRAINING However, 2019 eclipsed all previous years by some margin. TRAINING PROJECTS
Training is one of the core All programmes are open to any voluntary or Mongolia, September leadership trainees, as well as the creation of a pilot introduction course using the UIAA services offered by the UIAA. professional candidate from an organisation in Sponsored by the Petzl Foundation. Successfully personal skills programme. Contribution from In particular, the UIAA trained ten Leadership candidates, including two the regions served by the UIAA Panel or other sponsorship amounted to €4,000. Trainers came trainees from the National Emergency Rescue Mountain Qualification highly qualified trainers. from New Zealand and the UK. Label (MQL), managed by the team. A pilot introduction course using UIAA personal skills programme was also completed. Ladakh (India), June 2019 Hong Kong, October UIAA Training Panel (TP), is Trainers came from Cyprus, Mongolia and the UK. This was phase one of a three-year project. an internationally recognised Sponsored by ALTOA, Leh Mountain Rescue and In addition to the voluntary training projects, the team also completed professional assignments accreditation and certification The Himalayan Club, the focus was on mountain The contribution from sponsors amounted to requested by UIAA member organisation China trekking skills and leadership and mountain scheme which examines and €3,000 (€10,000 over three years). Hong Kong Mountaineering and Climbing evaluates the training and rescue for Leh and Zanskar rescue teams. The Union (CHKMCU). result was the successful qualification of 23 There was also additional sponsorship from assessment programmes of various Mongolian organisations amounting leadership trainees and ten rescue trainees. In Hong Kong, the ‘Train the Trainer’ course to €30,000 over three years. The long-term UIAA member associations. A pilot introduction course was also offered resulted in the qualification of six senior coaches; outcome will be the availability of a sustainable advanced tutor training and induction into UIAA using UIAA personal skills programme trainers guiding qualification for hiking including glacial personal skills training concept. Delivered by BENEFITS FOR UIAA MEMBERS from Austria, Cyprus, India, Nepal and the treks. trainers from Cyprus and the UK. All UIAA members can apply for, and benefit from, MQLs. The process includes an UK. A contribution from sponsors amounted to €15,000. The long-term outcome was a There was also a seminar for coaches, focusing independent assessment of the training provided to voluntary leaders and instructors by Kenya, October on the topics of hiking, climbing and canyoning. sustainable guiding qualification for hiking, a UIAA expert, which is then endorsed by an international panel of experts. Accredited This was delivered by trainers from Cyprus, including glacial treks, as well as civilian rescue Sponsored by James Savage. The successful Spain, the UK and the USA. The feedback from UIAA member associations include representatives from over twenty countries. teams for the Leh and Zanskar regions. venture resulted in the qualification of 48 delegates was overwhelmingly positive. - 96 - - 97 - Safety A leading team of Training talent The TP has successfully has been finalised ready for TRAINING piloted courses using the print. This includes a new The Training Panel now has a team of trainers the AMGA (American Mountain Guides syllabus and structure in section on avalanche, and in place with proven experience to deliver Association), and the NMLA (Nepal Mountain RESOURCES several countries - including substantial additions to the “cutting-edge” training on the mountain Leader Association. The Hong Kong seminar some countries that do sections on GPS and trad Purchase: Alpine Handbook as well as in the classroom, anywhere in produced a cross-activity format that could AND SERVICES not yet have a club or climbing (at the request the world. Its network of trainers include of Reinhold Messner and individuals from IFMGA, UIMLA and many potentially be delivered for any member Personal Skills (Good Practice) federation structure, but do Doug Scott). A completely national associations, including the AMI organisation as a member service and Training have a growing interest in (Association of Mountaineering Instructors), showcased the work of several commissions. mountain activities. This is a new section on canyoning All other services and resources are is almost complete. This service that only instructors Meetings secondary to this concept, which the project has been sponsored holding UIAA accredited https://www.theuiaa.org/skills/ TP believe will revolutionise training entirely by the Petzl qualifications can deliver. It The Training Panel met twice in 2019, as France, Slovenia, Spain, the UK and the USA. worldwide. In some ways this scheme Foundation. has been piloted in India, part of the Mountaineering Commission. It should be noted that this sub-commission can be likened to the PADI scheme for Indonesia, Kenya and Mongolia. Thanks to its “filter” procedure of requiring Demand for this book exceeds availability. The already contains the maximum number of diving, except that the UIAA scheme MountCom membership as a pre-requisite English language digital version has brought members proposed in the draft constitution empowers member organisations and CHKMCU have announced that it intends to for membership, the Training Panel has a an income to UIAA training of approximately use this licensing concept for all their Mountain dedicated team comprising senior trainers document circulated prior to the GA and has enhances rather than competes with €500. Participating federations are contracted Skills 1 and 2 courses from 2020, with other from Catalunya, the Czech Republic, Cyprus, several other aspirant members. existing training programmes. to pay a small fee for each copy sold of the activities to follow suit pending accreditation. printed version. It is estimated that worldwide The UK has indicated an intention to join sales to date are in the region of 5,000 copies: the UIAA scheme for its rock skills training this represents a significant potential income to programme. It is also available for delivery To purchase the DIGITAL VERSION of the SPRING MEETING AUTUMN MEETING offset against UIAA commission running costs. UIAA Alpine Skills Handbook (in English), by IFMGA and UIMLA members with suitable Invoices will be submitted in 2020. HOSTED BY THE MOUNTAINEERING HOSTED BY CHINA HONG KONG including any future updates to the digital pedagogic induction – a short online induction ASSOCIATION OF SERBIA MOUNTAINEERING & CLIMBING UNION version, click here. is proposed in addition to seminars. The dedicated UIAA Skills series has promoted https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/uiaa- https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/ mountaineering-commission-meets-in-serbia/ review-uiaa-mountcom-autumn-meeting/ extracts from the book with the aim of UIAA Summer Handbook. A second edition of the French and English language versions promoting sales of the digital version. - 98 - - 99 - Safety
Translation of DAV videos. This filming or post-production work was a Safety Commission project; on training videos in collaboration CHALLENGES AND the Training Panel was asked to with the Safety Commission: comment after the production of two of the panel members have SOLUTIONS the English language versions. a professional background in DATABASE DEVELOPMENT This was straightforward for eight directing successful training of the videos, but the remaining videos. This episode demonstrates This has taken two years from single organisation MARKETING FUTURE PLANS video – belaying with an ATC/ that the climbing public longer to complete than the representatives to potentially REPORT BY tube style device – generated Peter Bourne, UIAA Communications There are ongoing projects in India, developers had originally the entire online world - considerable correspondence expect UIAA videos to present Manager, has done a great job at Kenya and Mongolia. anticipated. It should be something which did not STEVE LONG and also controversy within at internationally agreed techniques promoting the UIAA Summer Skills noted that a database capable exist when the development As well as the revalidation of existing President, UIAA Training Panel least one federation. The Training and is an important medium for Handbook through the website and of handling every qualification work was commissioned. accreditations, there is a planned Panel is keen to coordinate future potential future expansion. newsletters, along with uploading KEY LINKS for every mountaineering marketing drive for federation Therefore, this has required meeting reports and papers. However, culture and environment UIAA Skills considerable groundwork accreditations and individual climber this is “preaching to the converted” UIAA Training is unprecedented: some registrations. There have been various and diplomacy, and many – whereas there is a need to ensure would say impossible. The additional training requests, including Map of Training Accreditations weeks of populating data that every climber and mountaineer TP has paid €2,000 for from the Mumbai region, Morocco and fields by the Training Panel TRAINING PANEL what eventually required a worldwide knows and respects the representative to avoid any Thailand. As confirmed by the Management Committee ground-up rebuild – therefore UIAA brand and gains awareness of accusation of “scope creep”. in Cyprus (November 2019) the casualty has been timing, its training services. Since the budget Plans are afoot to publish the second The accreditation part of the Steve Long since the database developer request for investment in this crucial edition of the English-language MEMBERS database is currently being aspect of the development work was FINANCE naturally focusses on its fee- Summer Skills Handbook, with Steve LONG (President), United Kingdom (BMC) paying clients for developer tested by various heads of rejected when the business plan was worldwide distribution. There is also a Andreas ANDREOU, Cyprus (CMCF) Patrick LAMARQUE, France (FFCAM) The TP is effectively working on a shoestring budget. Total investment by time. In the meantime, the training. The system must first proposed in 2012, the Training desire to implement a Personal Skills/ Jordi Guell MAGRINA, Catalonia (FEEC) work flawlessly before it (a) the UIAA in the ambitious database and marketing work has been €2,000 TP has successfully added Panel has recruited a professional Good Practice training delivery by Laura Samso PERICON, Spain (FEDME) to date. However, the funding for specific projects by the Petzl Foundation all the CRM components goes live and (b) subset data marketing company on a “no-win, no member organisations’ instructors, Matjaž ŠERKEZI, Slovenia (PZS) for the skills training for skills training registrations fee” percentage income basis. This while there is also a Back-Country has enabled the TP to pilot, test and refine the service products described registrations, a fundamental are opened to the climbing marketing drive will commence as Snow Sport Seminar planned in the elsewhere in this chapter. expansion requirement and mountaineering public. soon as database testing is complete. spring of 2020 in Canada.
- 100 - - 101 - Sport EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 2018/19 UIAA ICE CLIMBING SEASON STATISTICS
2018/2019 2019
3.84 million UNIQUE views of 10 Countries 178 Athletes 4M all video content Ice Climbing Photo: UIAA/Levi Harrell
UIAA Ice Climbing Event entries Over 2.9 million views of 6 832 3M COMPETITION ICE World Cups total livestream + 94% on 2018
New UIAA Ice Climbing World National federations Total reach of nearly 7.5 million CLIMBING 1 29 7M Combined Championships represented people The UIAA has organised the sport of ice climbing The 2018 World Tour was one of for nearly twenty years and in that time has the largest to date comprising five UIAA Ice Climbing World High-quality Dedicated media distribution 1 Championships livestream partners – Extreme Channel, Olympic witnessed the incredible growth in popularity of the World Cups, four European Cups Channel, EpicTV, Red Bull TV, TrekTV, UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. Ice climbing is a and a World Youth Championships. & Swiss-Sport TV UIAA Ice Climbing World Increased livestream 1 dynamic, exciting sport, rewarding determination, Events received signature exposure Youth Championships distribution technique, speed and precision. The sport is and coverage through the UIAA’s World Cup winners from Korea increasingly appealing to young people both as livestreaming platform and UIAA Ice Climbing 4 Russia, Switzerland + podiums for European Cups a competition and as a way of developing core relationships with partner channels, Canada, Finland, France, Ireland & mountaineering skills. including The Olympic Channel. Iran
- 102 - - 103 - Sport
The UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in 2019 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUPS Denver, organised in conjunction with 2018/19 UIAA CHEONGSONG, SOUTH KOREA 11-12 January 2019 Lead & Speed the American Alpine Club, was one of BEIJING, CHINA 18-20 January 2019 Lead & Speed the highlights of the season. Here are ICE CLIMBING just a few of the reasons: SAAS-FEE, SWITZERLAND 24-26 January 2019 Lead & Speed
RABENSTEIN, ITALY 1-3 February 2019 Lead & Speed WORLD TOUR . First UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup event held CHAMPAGNY-EN-VANOISE, FRANCE 7-9 February 2019 Lead & Speed in a major city centre – event structure situated right outside city hall in the Civic Centre Park, CALENDAR DENVER, USA 22-23 February 2019 Lead & Speed downtown Denver.
. Event run in conjunction with a large winter 2019 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS festival organised by Barbegazi
MOSCOW, RUSSIA - COMBINED 14-15 December 2018 Lead & Speed . 25,000 spectators over the two-day event
UIAA Anti-Doping KIROV, RUSSIA – SINGLE DISCIPLINES 8-10 March 2019 Lead & Speed – possibly the biggest climbing competition Commission attendance ever worldwide Photo: UIAA/Levi Harrell A HIGHLIGHT A HIGHLIGHT The UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour . Over 10,000 spectators attended the lead is supported by the work of the UIAA 2019 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD YOUTH CHAMPIONSHIPS final on Sunday night Anti-Doping Commission who ensure competitions are fully WADA compliant from OULU, FINLAND 1-2 March 2019 Lead & Speed . Voted best event of the 2019 season by athletes running a mandatory athlete questionnaire For results from the 2019 UIAA (athletes must complete this to receive their Ice Climbing competition licence) as well as in and out WORLD YOUTH The UIAA plans to focus efforts on recreating this of competition testing. Please refer to he CHAMPIONSHIPS in Oulu, Finland please concept in other major cities worldwide to show dedicated chapter of this report. click here: Further details: competition ice climbing to a wider public. www.theuiaa.org/anti-doping https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/
ice-climbing-resultscentre/ DENVER: OF THE SEASON - 104 - - 105 - 2018/19 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR MEDAL WINNERS Sport
WORLD CUP: CHEONGSONG, SOUTH KOREA WORLD CUP: RABENSTEIN, ITALY https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/world-combined-champs-shine-in-south-korea/ https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/live-from-rabenstein/
LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) A Nemov (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) A Nemov (RUS) E Feoktistova (RUS) H Park (KOR) W Shin (KOR) N Kuzovlev (RUS) E Koshcheeva (RUS) H Park (KOR) W Shin (KOR) A Sukharev (RUS) V Bogdan (RUS) L Younggeon (KOR) H Song (KOR) V Iurlov (RUS) M Filippova (RUS) N Clair (FRA) H Song (KOR) V Iurlov (RUS) E Koshcheeva (RUS)
WORLD CUP: BEIJING, CHINA WORLD CUP: CHAMPAGNY-EN-VANOISE, FRANCE https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/new-medal-winners-in-beijing/ https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/live-from-champagny-en-vanoise/
LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) V Iurlov (RUS) E Koshcheeva (RUS) N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) A Nemov (RUS) N Savitskaia (RUS) N Clair (FRA) E McSwiggan (IRL) V Kartashev (RUS) E Feoktistova (RUS) H Park (KOR) W Shin (KOR) A Sukharev (RUS) E Feoktistova (RUS) L Younggeon (KOR) E Bertling (FIN) A Sukharev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) L Ladevant (FRA) P Klingler (SUI) V Iurlov (RUS) V Bogdan (RUS)
WORLD CUP: SAAS-FEE, SWITZERLAND WORLD CUP: DENVER, UNITED STATES https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/2019saasfeereview/ https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/record-crowds-witness-world-cup-finale/
LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women Y Glatthard (SUI) W Shin (KOR) A Nemov (RUS) V Bogdan (RUS) Y Glatthard (SUI) M Tolokonina (RUS) N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) N Kuzovlev (RUS) S Goetz (SUI) V Iurlov (RUS) E Koshcheeva (RUS) N Kuzovlev (RUS) W Shin (KOR) D Bouffard (CAN) C Jary (FRA) N Primerov (SUI) H Song (KOR) N Kuzovlev (RUS) N Savitskaia (RUS) - 106 - V Sypavin (UKR) E McSwiggan (IRL) D Grebennikov (RUS) M Thomas (FRA) - 107 - Sport
WORLD COMBINED CHAMPIONSHIPS: MOSCOW, RUSSIA The Red Bull TV promotional video for the fifth round of the UIAA https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/maria-tolokonina-and-nikolai-kuzovlev-win-combined-worlds-in-moscow/ Ice Climbing World Cup Tour - Champagny-en-Vanoise – using footage from previous rounds – 1,500,000 views in 48 hours! COMBINED Men COMBINED Women 56,000 likes, 1,211 comments and 1,104 shares on Facebook! N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) N Glazyrin (RUS) V Bogdan (RUS) M Safdarian (IRN) M Filippova (RUS) MEDIA
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS: KIROV, RUSSIA RETURN https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/new-world-champions-crowned-in-kirov/
LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women
N Kuzovlev (RUS) W Shin (KOR) V Iurlov (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) M Tomilov (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) A Sukharev (RUS) N Savitskaia (RUS) A Marshalov (RUS) M Filippova (RUS) A Nemov (RUS) V Bogdan (RUS)
WORLD TOUR, OVERALL (ALL WORLD CUPS) https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/2018-19-uiaa-ice-climbing-season-review-stars-on-ice/
LEAD Men LEAD Women SPEED Men SPEED Women
N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) A Nemov (RUS) E Koshcheeva (RUS) H Park (KOR) W Shin (KOR) N Kuzovlev (RUS) M Tolokonina (RUS) No. 1 Post of the Y Glatthard (SUI) E McSwiggan (IRL) V Iurlov (RUS) N Savitskaia (RUS) - 108 - season - 109 - Sport
UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour LIVESTREAM FIGURES MEDIA PARTNERS The took fully embedded feeds of all EVENT NUMBER OF VIEWS* TOTAL VIEWS EVENT NUMBER OF VIEWS* TOTAL VIEWS Extreme Channel The Outdoor the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, the Olympic Channel MOSCOW c 513,532 (UIAA & EXTREME) 527,157 CHAMPAGNY- c 86,000 (UIAA & EXTREME) 109,871 Research took the full World Cup series, Red Bull TV streamed the EN-VANOISE l l 10,275 (UIAA) 7,500 (UIAA) official UIAA European World Tour legs which were available to watch d 3,350 (UIAA) d 3,200 (UIAA) Ice Climbing on AppleTV, and will hopefully take the full season in 12,000 (RED BULL TV) Trailer was 2020. EpicTV were present in Saas-Fee and Oulu and CHEONGSONG c 334,150 (UIAA & EXTREME) 351,903 played as produced live and non-live content. TrekTV, the French l 13,200 (UIAA) DENVER c 150,100 (UIAA) 172,242 part of all television channel, also took the whole season’s livestream d 4,400 (UIAA) l 18,200 (UIAA) livestreams.
d 3,800 (UIAA) which the UIAA hopes to expand on in the future.
BEIJING c 268,900 (UIAA & EXTREME) 297,701
l 12,200 (UIAA) KIROV c 108,000 (UIAA & EXTREME) 116,500
d 16,500 (UIAA) l 6,300 (UIAA) l 2,200 (UIAA) ATHLETE PROFILES SAAS-FEE c 423,044 (UIAA & EXTREME) 423,044
l 16,500 (UIAA) OULU c 158,300 (UIAA) 168,700
d 5,000 (TWITTER) First time l 8,300 (UIAA) livestreaming World Youth Championships 39,000 (RED BULL TV) d 2,100 (UIAA)
RABENSTEIN c 662,700 (UIAA & EXTREME) 700,079 Throughout the recent season, the UIAA produced a number of features profiling l 10,500 (UIAA) views on data collected so far 2,867,197 individual athletes. These focused both on the individual athlete’s backstory and d 4,700 (UIAA) technique and performances. The videos proved very popular and provide the UIAA 22,000 (RED BULL TV)
with a wealth of content to promote off-season. The UIAA would be keen to work closely
with OR regarding both feature content and sponsored-content going forward. - 110 - - 111 - Sport WORLD TOUR COMMUNICATION 2019 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR: Social Media Statistics
c FACEBOOK f INSTAGRAM h FLICKR
• 5,000 new followers gained (from • The UIAA & QTV posted 64 videos to • 2,065 photos posted 33,000 to 38,000) Instagram and regular picture posts • Combined photo views 613,305 up by 30% REPORT BY • Reach for season posts 2.61 million • +20,000 views of video content on on 2018 Instagram were achieved CARLOS TEIXEIRA • Five posts with a reach of over 100K President, UIAA Ice Climbing Commission • Two posts with over 100K unique PRESS RELEASES viewers (Glattard/Denver; Clair/ l • One preview and one review press release sent for every Rabenstein) YOUTUBE World Cup and World Championship. ROB ADIE Alex PAUN, Romania (CAR) • 587,000 minutes viewed UIAA Sports Events Coordinator Ziga STER, Slovenia (PZS) • • Preview usually 72 hours before the event; review within 211,700 unique views up by 51% on [email protected] Luc THIBAL, France (FFCAM) • 819,400 3-second views 2018 24 hours of event finishing – 18 over the course of the season. • Top audience: USA, Italy, India, UK, • 6,096 subscribers, up from 4,300 in CORRESPONDING MEMBERS ICE CLIMBING LINKS Spain 2018 WEBSITE Nejat AKINCI, Turkey (TDF) UIAA Ice Climbing page Zoljargal BANZRAGCH, Mongolia • Top reach: USA, UK, Canada, France, • Watch time – 2.5 million minutes • The Ice Climbing pages on the UIAA website between 1 (MNCF) Italy UIAA ICE CLIMBING COMMISSION MEMBERSHIP • Top audience – USA, Russia, UK, November and 15 March had 253,328 page views (up 42% Bharat BHUSHAN, India (IMF) Switzerland, S. Korea on 2018) from 89,307 (up 52% on 2018) unique visitors and As confirmed by the UIAA Management Committee Benjamin GIGER, Liechtenstein (LAV) 142,065 sessions. in Cyprus (November 2019) Li SHU, China (CMA) • 77% views from non subscribers d TWITTER • The event in Denver attracted the biggest audience by some Andrej PECJAK, Slovenia (PZS) • 84% views from males FULL MEMBERS margin – 36,887 page views, 24,267 sessions and 16,649 Pranav RAWAT, India (IMSCF) • 354,000 impressions on UIAA Tweets Carlos TEIXEIRA, President, Portugal (FCMP) • 25-34 years largest demographic users. Masoud ZEYNALI, Iran (IMSCF) about World Cup Tour Pavel SHABALIN, (Vice President), Russia (RMF) • Top videos: Denver Lead Finals – • With livestreaming traffic not necessarily directed to the David DORNIAN, Canada (AAC) ATHLETES • Top audience: UK, USA, Spain, Italy, 162K minutes; 12.3k views, Saas-Fee UIAA website, the increase in numbers are very high. Mohammad Amin HAVALEHDAR NEJAD, Iran (IMSCF) France Gordon McARTHUR, Canada (AAC) Lead Finals – 98.9K minutes; 5K views, Byeong GOO KIM, Korea (KAF) • The results section of the website had over 7.8million page Nikolay PRIMEROV, Russia (RMF) Beijing Lead Finals – 79K minutes; views (up 105% from 2018) from 25,749 unique visitors! (up Nadezhda LAUNITS, Russia (RMF) Kendra STRITCH, United States (AAC) 4.1K views 57% from 2018) - 112 - - 113 - Sport
ISF REPORT 2018-2019
© Skyrunning / Francesco Bergamaschi The General Assembly, held in Limone Sul Garda in October 2018 confirmed Marino Giacometti as ISF President for another term and many challenges were announced for this four-year period. Some goals are maybe too ambitious for now, but the first results
s s from 2019 allow ISF to project a bright future. e l r o C n a I / g in In terms of internal structure, the ISF has enhanced the organisation and workflow of its staff. New n n ru ky
S MRSWS / Skyrunning © Unit Member © staff members have enabled more time to be dedicated to the organisation and the promotion of ISF events worldwide, as well as for relations with member federations. INTERNATIONAL Contracts and external cooperation with the managers of the Skyrunner® World Series have also been updated with significant economic improvements and better management conditions. SKYRUNNING FEDERATION ISF MEMBERS AND PROMOTION The International Skyrunning Federation The principal aims of the Federation are the direction, (ISF) represents the governing authority The ISF has developed and sent new guidelines terms of competitions/championships organised, regulation, promotion, and of Skyrunning – mountain running above to all ISF Members to support, increase participation of athletes at international events and, development of Skyrunning on and stimulate activities and promotion of of course, to check the payment of membership 2,000m over extremely technical trails. a worldwide basis. Safety in the Skyrunning. 2019 saw the welcome addition fees. The GA in 2018 made a decision that non- mountain, clean sport and respect Three disciplines define the sport and they of Bolivia, Korea Republic and North paying members will be expelled after two years. are not just based on distance but also on of the environment are the Macedonia. federation’s main goals. The ISF It is the ISF’s intention to support the activity of each vertical climb and technical difficulty: Sky, has been a Unit Member of the At the same time, the ISF is working to annually member, but also to protect the Skyrunning image Ultra and Vertical. UIAA since 2015. verify the activities of each member federation in in countries where there are defaulting members.
- 114 - - 115 - Sport ANTI-DOPING
In 2018 the Anti-Doping activity will increase its testing to meet the new continued with sample tests at the World minimums imposed by WADA for each TECHNICAL CLASSIFICATION Championships, Youth Championships discipline. Therefore, the ISF also asks for SKYRUNNING AT and a stage of the World Series. the co-operation of national federations, ALTITUDE The project announced at 2018 GA to hand out a “Course Certificate” for competitions Obviously, there are limitations due to as has already happened in Italy and has begun and has been integrated with the formula for technical classification of race high costs but in 2019 the federation Spain. This year, ISF sponsored high altitude historical routes. This planning work took up the first four months of 2019, so the real operational events, such as Monte Rosa SkyMarathon phase only started in May. 2020 AND NEXT STEPS and Mount Elbrus, promoting the concept SKYRUNNING VISION AND PROMOTION The first step was the certification of the 50 races of which ISF already had the technical data, but of “altitude” which was the main element at the objective is to apply the certification globally, giving priority to the more technical routes. This Globally Skyrunning competitions are organization, anti-doping campaigns, security increasing year by year and social media and youth promotion. the start of our sport, together with scientific programme will lead to a better identification of Skyrunning as a sporting discipline, to inform is also growing in terms of numbers and research at the birth of Skyrunning. athletes of actual difficulties, preparation, equipment and safety. dedicated pages. The original Skyrunning Skyrunning World Championship Facebook page, which now mainly follows (confirmed for Spain on July 2020): Skyrunner World Series (SWS) events, grew • Youth World Championships (rules and location 2019 Sporting Events in one year from 115,000 to 128,000. tbc at the next GA) REPORT BY • Cooperation for SWS and National Series The 2019 Continental Championships is a In Europe the participation in the three Championship took place in August 2019 and This year new accounts were created for the (update of the format) International Skyrunning Federation with a MARINO GIACOMETTI good opportunity to involve new areas and disciplines is remarkable, while the Asian was another incredible success thanks to the • Vertical World Circuit (update of sky climb / ISF President Facebook and Instagram page, dedicated finally this year the ISF had the chance to add participation of many young teams and the vertical rules) Championships were held in Hong Kong in exclusively to federation activities. To discover more about the • Iconic Skyrunning Events at Altitude (Sky Summit championships in South America (Brazil) which commitment of the Italian Federation. Young International Skyrunning December. The following activities, events and projects Tour proposal) Federation, please visit: were a remarkable media success and in North athletes came from 28 nations and 11 teams will expand Skyrunning’s appeal and will also • ISF Certification Course (second step for 200 America (Colorado, US). The 4th edition of the Youth Skyrunning World were on the podium with 36 medals. increase the resources to ISF budget for the Skyrunning races in 2020) www.skyrunning.com
- 116 - - 117 - Sport
IN OUT-OF- OUT-OF- COMPETITION COMPETITION COMPETITION During the 2018/2019 season Anti- 26 TESTS 6 TESTS 1 BLOOD TESTING UIAA and Clean Climbing Doping Commission (ADC) conducted
the highest possible number of doping The biggest challenge was finding two athletes who were available to ANTI-DOPING controls - 33 in total. IN COMP. VENUE DATE URINE be tested out of competition, having in mind cost implications. CONTROL The UIAA promotes Clean Climbing by adopting Four doping controls per competition Maria Tolokonina and Alexey Dengin (both from Russia) were included and implementing the World Anti-Doping is consistent with the previous season. Moscow 16.11.2018 2 in the test group in 2018 and were informed about their obligations The difference this season was six Code. The federation manages an Anti-Doping to be available for testing out-of-competition. Their co-operation was out-of-competition doping controls Cheongsong 13.01.2019 4 excellent and without that it would have been almost impossible to programme, including in-competition and out- on two athletes from the Registered fulfil this request from the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA). Testing Pool and for the first time the Beijing 20.01.2019 4 of competition testing and results management ADC conducted blood testing. processes in ice climbing and skyrunning. Saas-Fee 25.01.2019 4
Past and present UIAA Anti-Doping Commission Presidents - Rabenstein 02.02.2019 4 In parallel, the UIAA is responsible for ensuring that all of its Nenad Dikic and Marija Andjelkovic member associations and athletes respect and comply with all Denver 24.02.2019 4 relevant international standards and all the principles inherent to the World-Anti Doping Code, including the education for Kirov 09.03.2019 4 successful prevention of doping in sport. UIAA contributes to the advancement of clean sport through scientific research TOTAL 26 and outreach initiatives under the name of Clean Climbing.
- 119 - Sport IN A UNIQUE POSITION 2020: THE YEAR AHEAD
The UIAA makes it mandatory for every competition athlete REPORT FROM ANNUAL International Standards that will In this section ADC would like to put an emphasis on the very important issues in the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour to pass an anti-doping COMMISSION MEETING(S) come into effect from 2020. There that will impact UIAA WADA Code compliance in future. will be changes that affect all education test before registration. The UIAA is one of few The Anti-Doping Commission stakeholders in the fight against On the level of anti-doping statistics that WADA monitors through information in the international federations to insist on this practice. meeting was held during the doping. The major difference ADAMS database, the UIAA exists as a sport with two disciplines – Ice Climbing and through WADA seminar in Lausanne, 14 its Unit Member, Skyrunning. That means that all mandatory requests from TDSSA (WADA The Anti-Doping online education created by ADC members – Dr Dikic from last year is the establishment March 2019, in the presence Technical Document for Sport Specific Analysis) gather these two disciplines into one total. and Dr Andjelkovic – is still active and up until April 2019 (close of of ITA (International Testing of Borja Osés Garcia, Marija In TDSSA it is written: REPORT BY 2018-2019 season), more than 200 climbers successfully qualified for a Authority) as an organisation with Andjelkovic and Nenad Dikic. roots in the IOC responsible for DR. MARIJA ANDJELKOVIC certificate. The current anti-doping situation independent testing in all Olympic President, UIAA Anti-Doping Commission SPORT DISCIPLINE ESAs% GHs% GHRFs% was discussed and all activities sports. Over the next few years ADAMS database of the ADC were approved. A the ITA will probably become a MEMBERS Mountaineering and Climbing All 10 5 5 All UIAA doping control forms/tests for Ice Climbing and Skyrunning are subsequent meeting was held in dominant testing authority in the Marija ANDJELKOVIC entered into ADAMS (world database of all WADA athletes). This action Katowice, Poland at the beginning world of sport. (President), Serbia (PSS) of November because WADA is Nenad DIKIC, Serbia (ISF) is important for recognition by WADA and the IOC. ESA, GH and GHRF are mandatory analyses In Ice Climbing, the UIAA ADC completed Borja Osés GARCIA, Spain (EMF) bringing in a new Anti-Doping Event 2 – WADA Conference that need to be done in urine or blood 3 ESAs, 1 GH and 1 GHRF. The International Code which will have an impact WADA Code Compliance Katowice, October analyses. The percentage described in TDSSA CORRESPONDING MEMBER on UIAA testing procedures. Skyrunning Federation also needs to refers to the total number of UIAA doping complete 2-3 ESAs, 2 GHs (from blood) Rakesh VERMA, India (IMF) Following communication from WADA regarding the Code Compliance This conference takes places controls conducted during a calendar year. Questionnaire (CCQ) review process, the UIAA received a Corrective every four years. In Katowice, the and 2 GHRFs. EVENTS, CONFERENCES, WADA monitors the total number of controls Anti-Doping Code that comes Action Report (CAR). All non-conformities identified as part of the Code MEETINGS through reports from both the laboratory Skyrunning has started active Compliance monitoring process are implemented. The UIAA can be into effect in 2020 was detailed. Event 1 – WADA Annual Meeting and the ADAMS database. In 2019, the UIAA The UIAA will adopt this new proud to be recognised as Code Compliant. This was a very demanding conducted 33 controls, with Skyrunning communication regarding permission to Lausanne, March Code on all levels of its activity, as process because it requires high level auditing of all ADC activities. until November 2019 having 26 controls. conduct tests under the UIAA umbrella. this is now mandatory. That makes a total of almost 60 controls. Nevertheless, all amendments that WADA requested were undertaken. This year’s meeting concerned Skyrunning even conducted specific According to that the UIAA needs to analyse WADA was satisfied with the outcome. the new WADA Code and 6 ESA, 3 GH and 3 GHRF. analysis in urine like ESA and GHRF.
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UIAA ROCK CLIMBING RESOURCE Rock Climbing As part of its commitment to supporting international rock climbing events, the UIAA recently launched a tool for organisers to showcase their festivals and for climbers to seek UIAA ROCK CLIMBING out festivals held near them. The calendar is available to view FESTIVAL AWARD here. The UIAA is proud to reward those who promote responsible rock climbing. Ever since its foundation in 1932, the UIAA has supported and developed mountain sports and rock climbing in parallel with its commitment to protecting the environment in which they are practised.
High mountains, big walls, bouldering, ski mountaineering, ice climbing
and rock climbing; these are all activities in the DNA of the UIAA and run in INTRODUCING: parallel to its commitment to sustainable practices. Since 2015, the UIAA has UIAA ROCK AND ICE FESTIVAL CALENDAR
organised a dedicated annual Award for rock climbing festivals worldwide. https://youtu.be/eKDoLz0gEGo Trad Climbing Festival, Korea. Climbing Festival, Trad Minwook Joo Copyright:
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Trad Climbing Festival, Korea. Copyright: Minwook Joo Sport
2019 UIAA ROCK CLIMBING FESTIVAL AWARD PAST AWARD WINNERS
Suru Boulder Fest was confirmed as the winner Given the quality of all three of the 2019 SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBER of the 2019 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award candidates, while Suru was confirmed as the ASSOCIATIONS 2015 - ORIGIN CLIMBING FESTIVAL, (RCFA) during the Award Ceremony held as overall winner and receives 1,500 CHF in prize SOUTH AFRICA Festivals recognised as part of the Award must part of the UIAA General Assembly. The Almaty https://www.theuiaa.org/home/inaugural-uiaa- money, the Panel decided to offer 500 CHF be endorsed by a UIAA member association International Rock Climbing Festival and Korea’s rock-climbers-award-south-africa/ to the two other nominees. All candidates in that country. The Award provides an Trad Climbing Festival, both supported by UIAA demonstrated excellent organisation and international platform for festivals run by, or member associations, were also nominated. received positive feedback from attending supported by, UIAA members. Benefits not only Amit Chowdhury of the Indian Mountaineering climbers. Suru was chosen for a number of include additional international exposure but 2016 - KALYMNOS CLIMBING FESTIVAL, REPORT BY Federation (also UIAA SafeCom President) factors not least its involvement of women the opportunity to collaborate with the UIAA GREECE accepted the award on their behalf. ANNE ARRAN climbers, close relationship with local and its different Commissions. https://www.theuiaa.org/rock-climbing/ kalymnos-a-rock-climbers-paradise/ UIAA Management Committee community, support for youth The fourth edition of the Suru Boulder Fest UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award Panel (held between 25 August and 7 September) climbers and waste disposal witnessed 150 climbers participating. The programme. This year’s Award organisers are committed to raising awareness was also supported by the about rock climbing in India and in particular UAAA – Union of Asian Alpine 2017 - INTERNATIONAL CLIMBERS’ FESTIVAL, the area around Ladakh. Many international Associations – who kindly UNITED STATES climbers visit the region each year and share donated to the prizemoney https://www.theuiaa.org/home/a-true- commitment-to-all-aspects-of-rock-climbing/ experiences with the local community, most pool. of whom are unable to travel and explore their passion for climbing. As a result, the festival In 2020 the award will focus succeeds in the development of the climbing on Australasia and South East community as well as awareness about the 2018 - FESTIVAL DE BOULDER DE MAR DEL PLATA, ARGENTINA sport. Asia. https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/2018-uiaa-rock- SURU FEST 2019 | PROMO VIDEO climbing-festival-award-nominee-mardelplata-2018/ https://youtu.be/ALpG3kAXCUU
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UIAA Global Youth Series 2019, Guillestre (France)
Guiding the next generation YOUTH The Youth Commission provides safe and exciting opportunities for young people to experience the mountains. The Commission encourages not only an individual’s technical development in a given discipline but also an appreciation for the environmental, cultural and ethical aspects of the areas the UIAA is engaged in. Young people are the future guardians of our wild spaces and it is our mission to teach respect for, and understanding of, these places. UIAA Youth Commission events therefore have not only a technical focus but also an environmental and cultural emphasis.
- 126 - Photo Credit: Tom Nakamura - 127 - Sport 2020: THE YEAR AHEAD ANNUAL The Commission will continue to The Youth Commission has a programme of There will be a greater focus on facilitating GYS events for the coming year, including encourage more member federations the longer-term development of programmes to participate in its activities, seek to well established events in France, Iran, North MEETINGS Macedonia and the UK. The Commission has and sharing experiences between member establish greater co-operation with focused primarily on organising events and federations. There are some larger UIAA members The UIAA Youth Commission (YC) held meetings in other UIAA Commissions and enhance although work has been conducted on producing Spain and in Cyprus. documentation and handbooks, to ensure these who run great programmes and have accumulated the promotion of the Commission events run safely it has a bigger role to play. A number of key topics were addressed. This included ways a lot of experience working with young people. It among all member federations. Future plans include the development of new to increase engagement with national federations and their is hoped that such information can be shared with international camps as well a continuing to help youth officers with the scope of organising more national and with grass route development within federations. members with less established schemes. international camps. The ultimate goal is to encourage and inspire young people to begin their journey into climbing.
The meetings also set out the Commission’s vision for UIAA Global Youth Series Event, Ariege (France), 2019 its future and the Strategic Plan for the Global Youth Summit events for 2020. UIAA Global Youth Series Event, Ariege (France), 2019 The YC has facilitated the successful organisation of a number of events for young people from federations from across the globe. These events BENEFITS FOR UIAA MEMBERS have given young people valuable experiences One of the main roles of the Youth Commission is to provide a pathway youth but what they can give”, explains Mark Dennison, Commission and training in various aspects of walking, rock and make it easier, especially for member associations in developing climbing and ice climbing. An important aim President. “Many federations have strong youth programmes in countries, to put together a youth programme. The Youth Commission of the Youth Commission is to continue to place and a clear pathway from when a young person first shows not only organises and promotes youth events organised by members attract new members. but encourages information sharing between federtions. “For a lot of an interest in climbing or mountains to getting them to where federations it is not about getting something out of the UIAA’s work in they want to be.”
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Quick Links GLOBAL YOUTH SUMMIT EVENTS UIAA Youth Commission Six Global Youth Summit Events were held in 2019, in France (3), Georgia, Iran and the Czech Republic.
International Youth Ice Climbing Camp International Youth Climbing Festival NEW Guillestre (Hautes Alpes), France Iran 20 July- 1 August 24 February- 2 March https://www.theuiaa.org/youth/global-youth-summit- https://www.theuiaa.org/youth/guillestre-2019/ damavand-alam-kuh-summer-camp/ INTERNATIONAL REPORT BY CALENDAR In 2019, the UIAA extended MARK DENNISON President, UIAA Youth Commission Discovering Bouldering in its online international Mountaineering Camp Fontainebleau Forest calendar to provide access MEMBERS to information about Youth CORRESPONDING MEMBERS Mount Kazbek, Georgia 23-30 July Mark DENNISON (President), UK (BMC) Fontainebleau, France 29 May- 1 June events, whether UIAA GYS Mohammad NASIR AWAN, Pakistan (ACP) Edgardo ABREU, Brazil (CBME) https://www.theuiaa.org/youth/global-youth-event- events or national events Dainius BABILAS, Lithuania (LMA) Zurab KUTCHAVA, Georgia (MCAG) https://www.theuiaa.org/youth/discovering-bouldering- mount-kazbek-mountaineering-camp/ organised by its members. Barbara BAJCER, Slovenia (PZS) Jenny PATERSON, South Africa (MCSA) in-the-french-fontainebleau-forest-camp4-19-bleau/ Christian BIARD, France (FFCAM) Mahmood HASHEMI, Iran (IMSCF) The calendar can be viewed Information correct as of the UIAA General from the Youth Events page of Marcus GARCIA, USA (AAC) Magdalena JANCIKOVA, Czech Republic (CMF) Assembly in Cyprus, November 2019 the UIAA website. Sandstone International Alexander KLENOV, Russia (RMF) Iraj MAANI, Iran (IMSCF) Youth Climbing Camp Youth Climbing Camp Members can supply details Neda MILOSEVIC, Serbia (PSS) on the events through the Batsaikhan OCHIRBAT, Mongolia (MNCF) Ariege, France 6-11 July Ostrov u Tise, Czech Republic 11-17 August dedicated form: Keerthi PAIS, India (IMF) https://www.theuiaa.org/youth/ariege2019/ https://www.theuiaa.org/youth/register-for-sandstone- Tiberiu PINTILLE, Romania (CAR) https://theuiaa.typeform.com/ international-climbing-youth-camp/ Mahmud Al RUBIYEATT, Bangladesh (BMF) to/Hy899t
- 130 - - 131 - Continental Bodies AFRICA
As the smallest continental body, in activities. There are other clubs in Africa with a this relatively new wave of development. In terms of number of member associations, long and distinguished history – the Mountain much the same way that Mount Everest is Africa presents unique challenges and Club of East Africa, precursor to the clubs in experiencing tremendous pressures due to opportunities for the UIAA. Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania - dating back to the number of people wishing to “tick off” the early 1930s. Of course, the presence of the the mountain, Kilimanjaro is under extreme high, glaciated peaks in those countries means pressure with some 30,000 people (plus 50,000 OPPORTUNITY support staff) attempting to scale this iconic that the climbing potential there is reasonably It was noted in the last Continental Reports, peak. Due to its lack of technical difficulty, it well-known to “outsiders” and are visited on a that Africa is a definite growth opportunity for is increasingly popular, so much so that the regular basis by climbers from all parts of the Tanzanian authorities, seeing an opportunity, the UIAA. Indeed, it comprises an enormous world. are considering the construction of a cableway area with a huge population – approximately to a point high on the mountain. CONTINENTAL 17% of the world’s people live on the African ISSUES continent, making it the second largest This would inevitably increase the pressure on the mountain and its environment – as continent by population after Asia. It also has This in itself, is generally a good thing but BODIES well as increasing the likelihood of altitude- some of the world’s best-known mountains it does mean that there is tremendous related conditions affecting tourists and from the high peaks of East Africa to the Atlas potential climbers. The UIAA has put out a pressure on Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya and Africa, Asia, Europe, North America, Mountains in the north and Table Mountain in statement – similar to the statement concerning Central and South America, the far south. the Ruwenzori Mountains, which creates even Everest – pointing out the opportunities and problems involved with such a development. It more problems and opportunities both for the Oceania. However, currently there are only two member is a complex problem in a developing country such as Tanzania. This chapter is dedicated to the associations in Africa. The primary one is the development of climbing in Africa and for an Mountain Club of South Africa. The Fédération increase in tourism with all the ramifications Last year, the Africa Report stated that it is reports produced by the Continental royale marocaine de ski et sports de montagne that spring from that. imperative to support these (East African) Representatives of the UIAA Management (Morocco) has been a member since 2017 and countries as the high mountains are at efforts have been made to engage more closely The UIAA has been at the forefront of efforts significant risk owing to climate change and Committee. and gain a greater understanding of their to optimise the various factors involved in the loss of the tropical glacier systems. This
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becomes more and more critical with the excellent value for money for visitors. The passing of time. MCSA has helped organize numerous climbing events and exchanges with Elsewhere, the story is more encouraging ASIA climbers from other associations. This with the Confederation of African The Union of Asian Alpine Associations it as a tangible value. In 2019, IMM (Nepal) has seen exchange meets with The EVENTS Mountain Clubs continuing its progress. (UAAA) stands for friendship, unity and and KNMM (Korea) signed a MoU to take a American Alpine Club (AAC) and the The 2019 Asian Joint Expedition organized by The second (hopefully) Annual Pan- promotion of mountaineering activities step for alliance, and the programme of ‘Visit British Mountaineering Council (BMC) the UAAA was held on Paldor peak (5,896m) African Meet was hosted this year by Mountain Museums in Asia’ began. over the last couple of years. Other in Asian members. It contributes to the Mountain Club of Malawi on Mount in Nepal. Twelve climbers participated clubs are also on the programme for international mountaineering on a global Mlanje. Reports are still coming in but we and successfully reached the summit. The scale related to the UIAA. The UAAA The UAAA Council meeting was held in expect that it will be highly successful. exchanges. The MCSA sees this as an expedition was supported by the Nepal Taiwan to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Negotiations are on-going for the third excellent way to foster cross-pollination aims to promote and exchange mountain Mountaineering Association and provided meet and all UIAA member associations of climbing communities worldwide. culture amongst Asian members. A Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association a good opportunity to exchange ideas and will be informed when plans solidify. great effort is made to maintain the develop friendships among the Asian climbing It is hoped that the other Clubs on in June, with thirteen members participating. mountain environment and support the community. the continent will be able to apply for MEMBERSHIP International Mountain Museum as a Thomas Kähr, EB member of the UIAA was membership of the UIAA in the near centre of mountaineering worldwide. invited which provided a perfect opportunity SUPPORT FOR UIAA MEMBERS The Mountain Club of South Africa future but it will require a change in (MCSA) continues to excel. The MCSA to discuss the latest workings of the UAAA. As the 2019 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival the thinking of both the various clubs The UAAA is pursuing a long-term goal currently boasts around 5,000 members Award was focused on the Asian region, to concerned and the UIAA itself. of linking mountain museums in Asian and supports a number of activities, The General Assembly meeting was held in support the award, the UAAA, following its member countries and building alliances ranging from rock climbing (traditional, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan in October. A total of meeting in Taiwan in June, donated a total of that promote mountain cultural exchange, adventure, sport climbing and 30 participants from 16 members attended. $500 prize money. bouldering) to hiking, mountaineering Report by artefact preservation and mountain education During the General Assembly, there were and ice climbing. through museums. As Alpinism is recognised annual activity reports from each member and In January, the UAAA also donated $5,000 to GREG MOSELEY by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural joint hiking programs to Ala-Archa national the International Mountain Museum in Nepal Mountain Club of South Africa, South Africa has proved a popular Heritage, mountain museums must express park and a visit to the climber’s graveyard. as part of the museum development fund. destination for mountaineers, offering UIAA Management Committee
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The UAAA created a ‘Sherpa of the marking its 60th anniversary. year award’ to recognise the world’s Organised by the Chinese Taipei EUROPE best Sherpas. The prize was awarded Mountaineering Association (CTMA) to Mingma Gyabu, a sherpa who and the Kyrgyz Alpine Club (KAC), SUMMARY OF 2019 the great outdoors. The BMC explored how Malta Climbing Club has participated in various rescue the Mountain Spirit Project will be The EU Commission has approved changing people’s behaviour and highlighting Having successfully set up a UIAA approved activities more than 50 times at over held in June and July. In August, these concerns can help minimise impact and EUMA’s ERASMUS+ project application for training and certification programme for 7,000 meters. organised by the Mountaineering "Improvement of conditions of climbing and conserve these spaces for future generations. instructors and climbers in general, the MCC and Sport Climbing Federation of mountaineering sports". The project will start is in the process of applying for environmental Kazakhstan (MSFRK) there will be a PARTNERSHIPS with a meeting in January 2020. Club Arc Alpin development permits to regularise the bolting The UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour joint expedition to Karly Tau Peak. The of sport climbing crags as well as identifying a has a very strong relationship with country will also hold the traditional MEMBERSHIP NEWS On 14 September, the CAA General Assembly supplier for liability insurance to instructors and rock-climbing festival (TRAD). guides. UIAA members in Asia, in particular, British Mountaineering Council elected Dr. Nicole Slupetzky, Vice-President of China, Korea and Mongolia. The the ÖAV, as President of the CAA. The meeting The General Assembly meeting will Mountaineering Federation of China Hong Kong Mountaineering The Changing Behaviours Conference be held in Hong Kong in October. decided on a "collaborative membership" of the North Macedonia and Climbing Union hosted the was held in Manchester, England, on 14 CAA in the European Union of Mountaineering UIAA Mountaineering Commission November, 2019. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ In December 2018 an agreement between MFNM, Associations EUMA https://www.club-arc-alpin. meeting in August with great success changing-behaviours-access-conference UIAA and the Petzl Foundation for the translation REPORT BY and the federation was awarded a eu/en/activities/alpine-convention-and-eusalp/ of the Alpine Skills Handbook into Macedonian The aim of the Conference was to look at how training standard accreditation. was signed and the translation is almost done. CHRISTINE PAE climbers can influence positive behaviour in the There was also the adoption of updated Director of Korean Alpine outdoors in order to continue to care for the In March 2019, a UIAA Expert completed the 2020 joint rules on safe indoor climbing, new Federation, International Relations; places they love. The conference focused on a evaluation of MNSF Voluntary Mountain Leaders recommendations on bouldering outdoors and In June, a council meeting will be held General Secretary, Union of range of issues that are currently affecting such trainings and accredited both trainings: Mountain in Tokyo, Japan, organised by the Asian Alpine Associations; UIAA places and landscapes from litter, wild fires and a new version of the position paper on mountain Walking and Trekking (summer), Winter Mountain Japanese Workers Alpine Federation Management Committee parking, to wild camping and human waste in sports and risks involved. Walking and Snowshoeing.
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New Partnerships –
EUMA and other organisations
EUMA (European Union of Mountaineering Associations) was able to conclude a cooperation agreement with the CENTRAL AND European Ramblers Association (ERA), which will greatly In May 2019, the 30-year anniversary of the first Mountaineering Ireland Swiss Alpine Club assist its goals. The Tenerife Walking Festival has again SOUTH AMERICA climb on Mount Everest by the Macedonian issued an invitation to EUMA members for 2020. The Latin America is a vast continent with large mountain climber, Dimitar Ilievski–Murato was held MI have appointed a Women in Sport Officer Key themes included the Glacier Initiative and leaders of the guided groups will receive very favourable ranges. Despite this, in general terms mountaineering on Baba Mountain, above Bitola, Dimitar’s with the aim of increasing participation by the challenges for the SAC regarding climate conditions also in 2020. hometown. The anniversary was a joyous women at every level of climbing including changes (including mobility,energy supply is not widespread compared with other sports. The www.mountaineering.ie/aboutus/ occasion, though one tinged with sadness, coaching. huts, helicopter transports to huts). Delegates region is made up of twenty-four countries, with only news/2019/?id=233 EVENTS celebrating Dimitar’s success but also mourning of the SAC decided in June to officially support Argentina, Chile, Brazil and Guatemala being full the federal popular initiative for glaciers (The his death which occurred on the route down. Mountaineering Ireland is awarding the 2019 UIAA members are supported through EUMA on members of the UIAA. Glacier Initiative calling for net zero emissions Mountaineering Ireland 'Lynam Medal' to Sir many matters. This representation offers a platform by 2050, seeking to enshrine the goals of the In June 2019, the symbol of mountaineering Chris Bonington for his lifetime of achievement for federations to inform others attending the GA of The national federations and their has become an Olympic sport, Paris Climate Agreement in the constitution and which has brought benefits for in North Macedonia and Balkan, the Titov Peak in Mountaineering, coinciding with the UN their news and areas of concern that they would like put Switzerland on a climate change course). clubs are working on the promotion mountaineering and traditional International Mountain Day in December. to share through UIAA channels and any projects they Tower was renovated and provides shelter to of the activity and are great climbing as well. The SAC began to work on a new strategy that seek partnership. mountaineers and hikers. Meanwhile, Mountaineering Ireland is in the will enter into force in 2022. Delegates will vote defenders of the mountains, the process of publishing a book 'Irish Peaks', which on the proposal in June 2021. Digitalisation and At the beginning of October 2019, MFNM will be of interest to anyone visiting Ireland's environment and mountain culture. “the route portal” are two ongoing projects. Mountain Orientation team participated in mountains. The Mountaineering Ireland Report by The Balkan Mountaineering Union's (BMU) affiliated Club Environmental Officer training Government support remains poor, Mountain Orienteering Competition in Bosnia continues to prove a success in educating ANNE ARRAN but it has changed substantially in and Hercegovina, together with teams from mountaineering club members in the increasing British Mountaineering Council (BMC), some countries as Sport Climbing other BMU member countries. fragility of the mountain environment. UIAA Management Committee - 138 - - 139 - Continental Bodies
MEMBERSHIP and the construction of toilets for climbers and open lines and develop new climbing areas in the place. The CBME also works intensively the National High Mountain School (ENAM). EVENTS visitors, repeating previous work in the Fitz Roy the country. In 2019, four courses were held in to consolidate a process of professional ARGENTINA and Cerro Torre area. different parts of the country, where four new qualification of mountain guides. This year a new EVENTS During the past year there have been http://www.fasa.org.ar/ climbing areas have been created. revision of the program has been established. different campaigns and training courses; an The ENAM (National High Mountain School EVENTS information campaign on National Anti-Doping Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo BRAZIL In 2019 was the fifth edition of the "Mosquetão of Chile) has conducted numerous mountain Standards aimed at mountain sports as well as (FASA) focuses on mountaineering, sports In Sierra de los Padres the "Boulder Festival of de Ouro” (Golden Carabinier Award). These training courses throughout the year. In 2019, http://www.cbme.org.br/ mountaineering, cartography, orientation and climbing, mountain skiing, alpine skiing and Mar del Plata" was held as it has been every national awards had six categories across FEACH made an important national expedition snowboarding, so activities are very diverse, year since 1999. It brings together more than different mountain activities. mountain navigation courses. The Brazilian federation - Confederação to the Himalayas, carrying out two “eight and its sports are grouped in the Ski Secretariat 500 climbers from all over the country as well Brasileira de Montanhismo e Escalada - brings thousand” mountains in seven days without Two important national expeditions for and Mountaineering Secretariat, the latter is the as neighbouring countries. Festival celebrations CHILE together 36 regional federations throughout oxygen. maximum authority of the mountaineering and were double this year, as the meet was awarded FECODEM were made: the Mount Kilimanjaro the country and is one of the most active in climbing in the country. the UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award in 2018. http://www.feach.cl/nuevo/ National Expedition and the Mexican Volcanos terms of access and conservation issues. COSTA RICA Expedition. The "National Mountaineering Promotion The Argentine Federation successfully made its The Chilean federation - Federación de https://www.facebook.com/FECODEMCR/ Law" has obtained preliminary approval in the first edition of the "Escuela Juvenil de Montaña” EVENTS Andinismo de Chile - also runs its mountain GUATEMALA National Chamber of Deputies and is about to (Mountain Youth School) where young activities alongside competitive sport climbing. The Costa Rican Mountaineering and become a national law where it is treated by the climbers selected from all over the country The CBME together with Pan American Access, Its structure is made up of environmental, http://www.fedeandinismo.gt/ Senate in 2020. This Law, presented by FASA were trained and made expeditions through carried out the "Respect the Mountains" Climbing Federation represents the safety and cultural commissions. They and several clubs in Argentina, will substantially different geographical regions of Argentina. campaign throughout the year. Fifteen clean-up Mountaineering, Climbing, Skyrunning, have integrated This federation, like all national sports change our sport, since it will make the practice These youngsters have been trained with the actions took place in different mountain sectors Hiking and High Mountain sports. The federations in Guatemala, is directly funded by of mountaineering friendly and non-restrictive support of FASA with the aim of training future of the country. FECODEM holds the National Cup and and highlight its sporting, cultural, socio- generations of Argentine mountaineers. the National Skyrunning Championship. the National Sports Ministry. It is formed by ten The first lobby actions were carried out in recreational and historical character. In the area of Conservation, the departmental associations and has activities As in previous years, courses and trainings the National Congress in favour of climbing "Environmental Days 2019" were including mountaineering, sport climbing, In the Provincial Reserve of Piedra Parada, an continue, the "National Course of Rock Route and mountaineering. To improve access and speleology and trekking. Its most impressive emblematic sector of rock climbing in South Setters" were given by the National Federation. conservation, climbing management was organised, which consisted of planting America, FASA along with Pan-American The objective of the courses is to train rock carried out in the Serra do Cipó, which consisted native trees in mountainous areas of mountain-related activities are the Fellowship Access, have carried out conservation work route setters, create a quality standard in the of a field day and discussion of solutions for national importance. Meetings with neighbouring countries.
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EVENTS members of the UIAA due to economic problems By 2020, the big challenge is to grow sports and a lack of mountain sports leaders. in all areas. Mountaineering in Latin America NORTH The Mexico-Guatemala Confraternity Meeting is not a massive sport, but it is already being took place in March, as it has been for several considered of great importance linked to AMERICA years. It was held in Mexico, near the Tacaná 2020 environmental activities and conservation, so Volcano. There was a large representation of the national federations increasingly relate to North America’s full UIAA members a tremendously successful Ice Climbing World ACC – ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA As mentioned in previous years, there are mountaineers from both countries as well as their governments as advisors. In addition, work are the American Alpine Club (AAC) Cup Denver, Colorado in February. The exciting numerous challenges for sport and its national The ACC published its third volume of the State from other Central American countries. with institutions such as Pan-American Access and the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC). federations in Latin America and these remain very event culminated in two rounds of quarter-finals of the Mountains Report, this year concentrating has increased, where the joint effort has yielded large. These include the extension of the territory UIAA associate members are Federation The Salvador-Guatemala Confraternity was also and finals on Saturday and Sunday attended by on permafrost loss and landslides. The and its mountain ranges. The inaccessibility great results, so it will seek to advance further in Quebecoise de la montagne et de l’escalade celebrated in the month of September in the the largest crowds in UIAA Ice Climbing World report is available to the public at https://www. of certain areas due to political problems in this type of relationship. (FQME), Province of Quebec, Canada; alpineclubofcanada.ca/web/ACCMember/Community/ Chingo Volcano region. Several countries from Cup history estimated to be in the range of some countries and/or the lack of transport and L’École Nationale d’Escalade du Québec, Publications/State_of_the_Mountains . the region were represented. Latin America is a continent where its mountains 12,000 to 15,000 people each day. infrastructure in the most remote regions. There Canada and the Alaskan Alpine Club are relatively well preserved and have not On or near the Canada Day long weekend 2019, remains a shortage of mountaineers and local (USA). On a disappointing note, AAC Executive Director The "Guatemala Mountain Awards 2019" were negatively been impacted by human activities. explorers, guides and mountain instructors. 19 of the ACC’s 24 local sections across Canada made to the most prominent summiters in the The great challenge is that this situation continues, Phil Powers announced his retirement for These factors create a lot of work for few people AAC – AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB held UIAA Respect the Mountains programmes. country. The prize is delivered in three different but that at the same time that mountaineering 2020. Phil leaves the AAC much invigorated because, as mentioned, the national federations The well-attended events were fun for all while categories: the Maya Prize, Walter Peter Prize can develop whilst respecting nature, the with tremendous new initiatives and activity are very small and only five countries are currently The American Alpine Club staged its annual and cleaning up many areas and providing education and Quetzal Prize. The awards seek to highlight on all fronts. Phil has guided the AAC through members of the UIAA. inhabitants and the culture of each region. successful “Climb the Hill” advocacy campaign on various climbing and environmental topics. the leading mountaineers and encourage sport its fantastic increase in membership and at Washington DC and were joined by notable As the year closed, the ACC added to its status as among climbers. In recent years, the activity of the national growing profile and influence in safe climbing climbers such as Steve House, Tommy Caldwell the operator of the largest number of backcountry educational programs and web presence. He federations has increased substantially and REPORT BY and Alex Honnold. More details are available at: huts in North America by acquiring the Shadow OTHER COUNTRIES is a powerful influence on climbing in North Lake Lodge in the backcountry of Banff National progress has been important. The main issues https://americanalpineclub.org/climb-the-hill Countries such as Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador MARTIN LASCANO GONZALEZ America, and his everyday presence will be Park. Shadow Lake diversifies the ACC hut and Peru have strengthened their mountain are legal, access and conservation, as well as Central & South America Representative The ACC in cooperation with the UIAA and its missed but not less than his friendly American system’s hiking options for club members and activities, but they remain distant from becoming training in mountain and climbing activities. UIAA Management Committee significant sponsor Outdoor Research staged demeanour. the public.
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FQME OCEANIA
As the provincial body organising climbing in the Oceania includes Australia, New Zealand and Climate Change Impact In New Zealand, a number of well-known National Parks which have proposed weakening Province of Québec, the FQME celebrated 50 the many island states scattered across the vast rock crags have closed while local protocols the long standing principle that preservation of years as an organization and the UIAA ocean of the South Pacific. The New Zealand Significant glacial recession in New Zealand can hopefully be established. The NZAC is the environment comes first in National Parks. was proud to send congratulations to this Alpine Club (NZAC) with 4,500 members is is impacting physical access to traditional increasingly being asked to intervene and The NZAC has firmly objected to a range of long-standing member. the principal mountaineering organisation mountain areas & requiring mountaineers to contribute to these discussions. In New Zealand proposals that would allow the expansion of in the region, established in 1891 and with reconsider when and where they climb. the discussion often centres on interpretation commercial activity such as flights in remote Looking forward to 2020, the ACC and the geographical sections in both NZ and Australia. and action based on the Treaty of Waitangi parts of National Parks to meet ever growing AAC will partner with the University of Alberta Access Challenges founding document signed between most tourist demand. (Edmonton, Alberta) for a climb and climate The NZAC operates both high and base huts, change study of Mount Logan, in the St. Elias Maori and the British Crown in 1840, coupled delivers instruction at all levels, publishes In the past year a number of well-known rock HIGHLIGHTS FROM INDIVIDUAL MEMBERS range and Canada’s highest peak. Details with differing world views of the central spiritual guidebooks and on-line route guides, a climbing areas have been closed or threatened https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/ role of land. are available at: quarterly magazine and annual Journal, offers As always, there has been lots of activity in the fqme-50-years-of-discovery-and-excellence/ with closure in both Australia and New Zealand. insurance and advocates on behalf of climbing Oceania mountaineering and climbing world. There are a variety of reasons for these closures. In both countries these can be challenging with access and other issues. NZAC was a Traditional owners in both countries are Much of this is not reported. People just get out founding member of the UIAA. discussions that outdoor users are increasingly increasingly asserting their right to manage and and do it. It can be said that the popularity of Report by control access to their lands, which are often having to confront, with changes in thinking, climbing is growing as reflected in a number of SUMMARY OF 2019 new local Clubs being formed in both Australia the very places that attract climbers. These climbing ethics and behaviours. PETER MUIR and New Zealand. North America Management Committee Rep. GOVERNANCE issues are complex, heartfelt and grounded in UIAA Treasurer the colonial histories of both countries. There Growth in Visitor Numbers The formation of the Australian Climbing NZAC has undertaken a major reorganisation of are significant differences between Australia Association Victoria, specifically to legally its Governance structure and now has an elected Rapid growth in backcountry visitors (tourism) and New Zealand. In Australia the closure of challenge the closure of climbing areas in the Board in place with responsibility for governance, is putting significant pressure on remote fragile much of the wellknown Grampians National Park state of Victoria was a notable development. financial and strategic oversight. The quality to climbing (closing some 3,000 routes) was environments and facilities. For example noise of candidates, from within the membership, These closures attracted considerable media initiated by the state Park Service and supported pollution from heavy use of helicopters and fixed was high with an impressive range of skills and attention in Victoria, some of which was negative by local Aboriginal owners who are concerned at wing aircraft for sightseeing is a major concern experience. to climbers. disputed claims regarding damage to traditional in the southern New Zealand glacier region. In Three interrelated themes have been the focus rock art and landscapes by climbers. This is being the last year NZAC has been at the forefront in NZAC publishes a range of guidebooks. The of attention by the Oceania climbing community: legally challenged by a coalition of climbers. challenging management plans and policies for federation was thrilled when the Aoraki- Tai - 144 - - 145 - Continental Bodies
Poutini Guide for Mountaineers, by Rob Frost https://climbnz.org.nz provides free information on their behalf with issues facing the outdoor (covering the heavily glaciated heartland of NZ on more than 12,000 routes, both crag and community such as access and the impacts moutaineering) won the Guidebook section at alpine. arising from climate change and increasing the 2019 Banff Mountain Book Awards. tourist numbers. There is a need to step up In the same vein, the regionally based NZAC’s advocacy capability as these challenges The NZAC goes from strength to strength as Canterbury Mountaineering Club has scanned grow. In 2020 we can expect to see these issues its journal, Canterbury Mountaineer 1932-2013 reported elsewhere. It is regarded as a model become more pronounced. for NZ outdoor recreation clubs at a time when which is freely available at https://www.cmc.net. nz/mountaineer many established clubs are seeing declines in NZAC members are involved in planning for membership. As always there is a shortage of Bouldering meets are gaining popularity. the next Sustainable Summits Conference to be resources given the demands. The NZAC National Bouldering series is held in Kathmandu in June 2020. attracting a wide range of younger and Events, Conferences, Meetings talented climbers. Oceania supports the UIAA using its global The annual New Zealand Alpine Journal (NZAJ) reach to advocate selectively for climbers The Remarkables Ice and Mixed Festival was has been digitised for the years 1892-2014, and mountaineers on issues such as access successfully held again by the Expedition with 2015 & 2016 to be added shortly. This and protection of mountain environments. Its Climbers Club in Queenstown, South Island, was a major project working with a team at members expect this of the UIAA. with cold weather delivering some excellent ice Innsbruck University, Austria. NZAJ now joins conditions. many of the world’s other leading climbing journals in providing easy, free online access to REPORT by 2020: The Year Ahead past issues. See https://www.nzaj-archive.nz/ Climbers are increasingly asking the New STUART GRAY NZAC also maintains a large online Zealand Alpine Club and other regional New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) database of climbing routes in New Zealand. climbing organisations to engage and advocate UIAA Management Committee
- 146 - - 147 - UIAA - International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation Monbijoustrasse 61 · Postfach · 3000 Bern 14 Tel: +41 31 370 1828 [email protected] www.theuiaa.org