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c o n T r i b u T o r s 435 she has taken part in 10 expeditions to the greater ranges and has made first ascents in Alaska, Canada, China, India, Pakistan and Afghanistan. Contributors She will be heading for her second expedition to Afghanistan in mid 2012. PHIL BARTLETT has been walking and climbing in mountains for 50 GRAHAM DUDLEY is a Resource Manager working in Aberdeen. years. He is increasingly interested in exploratory expeditions rather than Experience has been gained climbing and ski-mountaineering in the Alps, technical tests that he fails. His study of mountain literature and philos- Africa, Canada, Caucasus, Alaska, Arctic Norway and Greenland. ophy, The Undiscovered Country, was published in 1993. His other interests include the violin, mountain paintings, and how to sculpt a peaceful exist- JOHN FAIRLEY was Honorary Editor of the Alpine Journal from 1983 to ence. 1987 and was Transceiver Manager for the Alpine Ski Club for 10 years. A Chartered Electrical Engineer throughout his working life, he worked on ANDREW BISHARAT is senior editor of Rock and Ice magazine. His digital television, automation and telecoms but on retirement has devoted book Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing his time to painting mountains and people. He has climbed and painted in Success won the 2010 National Outdoor Book Award. You can find more the Himalaya and in the Altai as well as in the Alps. He has exhibited at of his writing at eveningsends.com the Alpine Club and one of his paintings is in the Bob Lawford Collection. More pictures can be seen at www.johnfairley.co.uk DR PENNY BRADSHAW is a Senior Lecturer in English at the Univer- sity of Cumbria. She is Programme Leader for BA English and for a new MICK FOWLER works for Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs and, by MA in Literature, Romanticism, and the English Lake District. Penny way of contrast, likes to inject as much memorable adventure and excite- works and publishes primarily within the field of Romanticism and is ment into his climbing ventures. He has climbed extensively in the UK and interested in the work of female Romantic poets as well as in the legacy of has regularly led expeditions to the greater ranges for more than 25 years. Romanticism within post-Romantic regional literature. Email: penelope. He has written two books, Vertical Pleasure (1995) and On Thin Ice (2005). In [email protected] December 2010 he was elected president of the Alpine Club. KESTER BROWN is the managing editor/designer of publications for the STEPHEN GOODWIN renounced daily newspaper journalism on The New Zealand Alpine Club. He produces the club’s quarterly magazine The Independent for a freelance existence in Cumbria, mixing writing and Climber and the annual NZ Alpine Journal. He is a rock climber and moun- climbing. A precarious balance was maintained until 2003 when he was taineer of many years’ standing and lives at Taylors Mistake beach, NZ. persuaded to take on the editorship of the Alpine Journal and ‘getting out’ became elusive again. DEREK BUCKLE is a retired medicinal chemist now acting part-time as a consultant to the pharmaceutical industry. With plenty of free time LINDSAY GRIFFIN lives in North Wales, from where he continues he spends much of this rock-climbing, ski-touring and mountaineering in to report on the developments in world mountaineering. An enthusiastic various parts of the world. Apart from climbing, his greatest challenges are mind still tries to coax a less than enthusiastic body up pleasant bits of rock finding time to accompany his wife on more traditional holidays and the and ice, both at home and abroad. filling of his passport with exotic and expensive visas. ULYANA HORODYSKYJ is a PhD candidate at the Cooperative Insti- ANDY CAVE loves all styles of climbing from Himalayan exploration tute for Research in Environmental Sciences (CIRES) at the University of to bouldering, as long as it’s fun. He has a PhD from the University of Colorado. She is a well-travelled field geologist, having worked on all seven Sheffield in linguistics and anthropology. His books Thin White Line and continents. Her next expedition to the Himalaya is slated for November/ Learning to Breathe have won five literary awards between then and been December 2012. When not travelling, researching or climbing mountains, translated into German, Italian and French. He is a motivational speaker she writes about science for the public, most regularly for the Ukrainian and IFMGA mountain guide. Weekly newspaper. PAT DEAVOLL works as the Events and Activities Manager for the New ALFREDO ÍÑIGUEZ was a climber and a member of the Grupo de Alta Zealand Alpine Club. Apart from short distractions into rock climbing and Montaña Español (Spanish High Mountain Group). His main activities kayaking she has been mountaineering for 35 years. Over the past ten years took place on the limestone walls of the Picos, especially in the imposing 434 436 T h e A l p i n e J o u r n A l 2 0 1 2 c o n T r i b u T o r s 437 Naranjo de Bulnes Peak. Off the rock, he pursued his passion for alpinism SIMONE MORO is an Italian alpinist with a particular calling to 8000 through writing articles and stories in his popular blog. He died in March peaks in winter. In 2009 he made the first winter ascent of Makalu (8463m) 2012 following a climbing accident. with Denis Urubko in true alpine style and two years later the pair, plus Cory Richards, repeated the feat on Gasherbrum II. His book Cometa DICK ISHERWOOD has been a member of the Alpine Club since 1970. Sull’Annapurna tells of his 1997 winter expedition to Annapurna during His climbing record includes various buildings in Cambridge, lots of old- which his companion Anatoli Bukreev died. fashioned routes on Cloggy, a number of obscure Himalayan peaks, and a new route on the Piz Badile (in 1968). He now follows Tilman’s dictum ANINDYA ‘RAJA’ MUKHERJEE works as a mountaineering expedi- about old men on high mountains and limits his efforts to summits just a tion guide and trek leader in the Indian Himalaya where in the past decade little under 20,000 feet. or so he has participated in or led more than 25 expeditions. He has also climbed and trekked in Tanzania, Greenland, Iceland, the Caucasus, and HARISH KAPADIA has climbed in the Himalaya since 1960, with the European Alps. Above all, his passion lies in exploring the lesser known ascents up to 6800m. For more than three decades his name was synony- valleys, glaciers and mountains of the Indian Himalaya. mous with that of the Himalayan Journal, which he edited until 2010. In 1993 he was awarded the IMF’s Gold Medal and in 1996 he was made TAMOTSU NAKAMURA has been climbing new routes in the greater an honorary member of the Alpine Club. He has written several books ranges since his first successes in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru in 1961. including High Himalaya Unknown Valleys, Spiti: Adventures in the Trans- He has lived in Pakistan, Mexico, New Zealand and Hong Kong and Himalaya and, most recently, Siachen Glacier: The Battle of Roses. In 2003 he has made 30 trips to the ‘Alps of Tibet’ – the least-known mountains in was awarded the Patron’s Gold Medal by the Royal Geographical Society. East Tibet and the Hengduan mountains of Yunnan, Sichuan, East Tibet and Qinghai. In 2010 he retired as editor of the Japanese Alpine News but PAUL KNOTT is a lecturer in business strategy at the University of Canter- continues as contributing editor. He received the RGS Busk Medal in 2008 bury, New Zealand. He previously lived in the UK. He enjoys exploratory and has recently been awarded the 4th Japan Sports Prize. climbing in remote mountains, and since 1990 has undertaken 14 expedi- tions to Russia, Central Asia, Alaska and the Yukon. He has also climbed BERNARD NEWMAN started climbing the day England won the World new routes in the Southern Alps and on desert rock in Oman and Morocco. Cup, so you’d think he’d be better at it by now. He joined the Leeds Univer- sity Union Climbing Club in 1968 when Mike Mortimer was president, JESÚS LONGO is a radiologist and mountaineer whose stressing hours and was closely associated with that exceptional group of rock climbers in the hospital are counterbalanced by the time spent in the solitude of the and super-alpinists which included Syrett, MacIntyre, Baxter-Jones, Porter most remote spots of the Picos de Europa. He shares Elisa Villa’s interest and Hall, without any of their talent rubbing off. One-time geologist, editor for the scientific and alpine history of these mountains, and he has a special of Mountain and Climber, Bernard is now a ‘freelance’ writer, editor and yearning to ‘dive’ into libraries or the web in search of ignored old texts photographer. He is a vice-president of the Climbers’ Club. about them. BRUCE NORMAND is from Scotland but lives in China where he works ERIK MONASTERIO is a Bolivian/ New Zealand psychiatrist and as professor of physics at Renmin University (People’s University) in climber, currently living and working in NZ. Erik has climbed all over the Beijing. Author of more than 20 first ascents and new routes on 6000m world, but specializes in the Andes, where he has done more than 40 new peaks in the Trans-Himalaya, he has also climbed K2.

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