The Helen Larson Private Collection Important Period, Couture and Historically Significant Costume

Sale Date Saturday April 28, 2018 at 10AM

Preview Times Thursday April 26, 2018 by appointment only Friday April 27, 10AM-6PM Saturday April 28, 8AM-10AM

Sale Location New Hope Eagle Fire Co. Exhibition Hall 46 North Sugan Road New Hope PA 18938

Every lot in this catalog is illustrated with multiple detailed images on our website www.whitakerauction.com

The Charles A. Whitaker Auction Co. holds semi-annual Couture, Vintage Clothing, Ethnographic Art and Textile Auctions in the Spring and Fall. For information on future sales or consigning to one of our sales please contact us for a free consultation

Charles A. Whitaker Auction Co. Auctioneers and Appraisers of Fine Art, Antiques, Period Costume, Textiles

1002 West Cliveden Street Philadelphia, PA. 19119-3701 215-817-4600 www.whitakerauction.com Helen Larson and James Laver of Victoria and Albert Museum, 1965 The HELEN LARSON Private Collection

Helen Larson was a passionate collector of both fashion and history. She, with the assistance of her close friend Doris Langley Moore - founder of The Costume Museum, Bath, England - assembled a massive collection over a 50 year career beginning in the 1940’s. There are many lots offered here that are illustrated in Moore’s The Woman in Fashion and The Child in Fashion.

The Helen Larson Private Collection spans several centuries and offers collectors, historians, and institutions a unique opportunity to acquire historical, royal and haute couture with a secure chain of provenance. Many lots include copies of correspondence between Larson and Moore as well as copies of invoices and auction records. Following World War II there was a great deal of property and costume belonging to British and European Royalty that came onto the market and Helen Larson, partially due to her success as creator of Western Costume in Los Angeles, was in a position to acquire much of it. The “Royalty” represented in the collection is vast and includes Queens Victoria, Alexandra and Mary of England, Louise of Denmark, Marina of Greece and others.

Plate XXVI The Woman in Fashion, Lots 185 & 217 Doris Langley Moore The Royal Group at Windsor Castle Photograph, part of Lot 314

American figures of note range from presidential first ladies and Gilded Age industrialists, to Hollywood celebrities including Mrs. Ulysses S Grant, First Lady Ellen Wilson, Gilded age industrialists Mrs Jay Gould (Duchess of Tallyrand), Consuelo Vanderbilt (Duchess of Marlborough) and Katherine Hepburn from "The African Queen”. The HLPC also houses some of the best of the best in haute couture with important examples from Worth, Poiret, Paquin, Pingat, Molyneux, Vionnet, Chanel and others. In short even the simplest of cotton dresses contained in this collection is clearly just a little bit better than what we currently see in the market. If you are interested in history or in the period costume industry at any level you should find a way to view this life’s work of a woman in fashion. Lot 3

Lot 1

Lot 2

6 PINK KID SHOES with CORD DECORATION, 1 CREAM SATIN SHOES with GOLD BRAID, 1680 - 1700 LATE 1790s Silk trimmed with rows of narrow gold braid Bright pink with extreme pointed toe and low having pointed toe, extended tongue, latchets Italian heel having an oval bronze-tone buckle tied with silk ribbon, tall Louis heel, faced in over wired and looped black and white striped blue silk, 2-piece custom mounts.(Significant cord, 2-tone leather lining, white kid and linen losses to satin, gold braid tarnished, losses to lining and insole. Possibly photographed on braid, tips abraded) fair. $6000 - 8000 Lot 4 model in “The Woman in Fashion” by Doris Langley Moore, 1949, plate 3. After Helen 2 SINGLE ENGLISH SILK BROCADE SHOE, 1730s purchased shoes, they were worn by a model Tobacco brown faille with straw-colored floral in a fashion show, 1960s. Bottom of one shoe brocade, crossed latchets with faceted jet buckle, transcribed with wearer’s name and additional silk bindings, linen lining with leather insole, text. L-10 with 1 1/4-inch heel. (One missing L-9 1/2 with 2 inch Louis heel. (Toe abraded, buckle, leather soiled, slight wear) very good. 1-inch split on vamp, heel stained, soil and tiny $1200 - 1500 hole on counter, wear to binding) good. $300 - 500 7 INFANT’S CHRISTENING ENSEMBLE, 1770 3 FRENCH FLORAL BROCADE SHOES, 1745 A complete christening set comprised of an Cream silk having polychrome floral brocade, open robe and backless petticoat of white satin latchets joined with self fabric bar over slightly trimmed with lace, three bonnets of white lawn extended tongue, tall kid heels, kid lining, Lot 6 decorated with pressed patterns and lace, two leather insole. L-9 with 3-inch heel. (Some have a fine holly pattern with eyelet, matching discoloration to heels, light overall wear, right white lawn shirt and bib with pressed pattern shoe has small hole in side, 3/4 inch split to and matching lace trim, a quilted satin coverlet quarter) good. $1200 - 1500 with ruffle and lace trim, matching that of the ensemble, and a small lace-trimmed pillow. 4 SATIN SHOES with DIAMANTE BUCKLES, 1770s Note “Aunt Connor’s Christening Dress, Black with overlapping latchets, pointed tongue, born 6th May, 1770). Purchased through Doris Italian heel, oval diamante buckle, kid lining Langley Moore, lot 125, Christie’s auction, July and insole. L-8 1/2 with 2-inch heel, buckles 14, 1969. B-16, L-31. (Quilt is lacking the backing 2 1/2 x 1 3/4. (Losses to binding, torn along and underside of the ruffle is discolored, tiny counter, splits to backs, white stain on one heel) spot to back of sleeve on robe, tiny spot on shirt shoes fair, buckles excellent. $800 - 1200 cuff) excellent. $2000 - 2500

5 WHITE SATIN PUMPS, c. 1790 8 INFANT’S SILK-LINED COTTON MITTENS, 1770s Pointed toe, squat Italian heel, silk White with ruffled cuff and thumb edged in fine faille bindings, linen lining and 2-tone leather lace, reinforced fingers with opening to convert insole, later writing on soles indicates an to mitts, joined, never used, L-5. Excellent. $150 - 250 occasion in 1883. L-9 3/4 with 1 3/8-inch heel. (Edge wear near sole, large hole and split in 9 THREE LAWN and LACE CHILDREN’S CAPS quarter of one shoe) fair. $300 - 500 1790 - 1840 All broderie anglaise: One with wheat sheaves having eyelets and larger cutouts with tulle insertion and drawstrings, 7 1/2 x 6; one having tiny floral with net insertions and embroidered net ruffles, 8 1/2 x 10, (several holes); one having repeating floral devices with lace insertion, embroidered net ruffles and medallion, DLM tag, 8 1/2 x 7 1/2, (some age toning). Together with a 19th C cotton cap having tucks, eyelet and embroidery. Good- excellent. $150 - 250 Lot 7 Detail

4 10 TWO SQUARE EMBROIDERED COTTON 17 NATURAL LINEN CORSET, 1780s FICHUS, c. 1780 Front lacing, double boned with baleen, Both white muslin: One having meandering V-shaped boning at center front and back, sewn tambour floral border and center medallion, with blue thread, handwritten note with corset ruffled border embroidered at the edge, 46 x reads “Grand Mothers Stays, her name was 47, (small light brown stain, small holes around Anne Love. She married Jesse Walton, when embroidery). One with Ayrshire whitework she was 17 years old. She died in 1835 aged 80 edge all around and border to two sides, 36 x 37, Lot 14 years”. B-32, CBL-12 1/2. (Some spots, pinholes, (two tiny spots). Both have DLM tag. Good- modern lace, inside has scattered holes, torn at excellent. $250 - 350 center back tab) good. $400 - 600

11 FOUR LADIES’ EMBROIDERED CREAM NET 18 AMERICAN BROWN LINEN CORSET, 1780 ACCESSORIES, 1790 - 1820 Back lacing with cream-colored stitching and One triangular kerchief with repeating flower cream suede bindings, linen facings, hand-sewn heads and scalloped floral border, DLM tag, 18 eyelets, hand-stitched on the interior with wide x 40. One lozenge-shaped fichu with alternating stitches, baleen boning. B-34, CBL-15. (Wear to tiny flower and leaf pattern, floral border edged bindings, some holes, binding soiled, lacking in tiny scallops, 18 x 55. One narrow rectangular laces) good. $500 - 700 shawl hand-embroidered with curlicues on the field with floral end borders, 9 1/2 x 112.. 19 FLORAL BROCADED CORSET with SEPARATE One long shawl having thistle motif, scalloped SLEEVE, 1780 - 1790 border and large floral sprays to the end Lot 15 Oyster silk with polychrome floral brocade borders, DLM tag, 19 x 95. (Some stains, some having shoulder strap, front and back laces, minor holes) good-very good. $300 - 400 linen lining, back has four linen-covered domed supports, includes custom mount. 12 THREE LADIES’ WHITE COTTON Under bust-31, CBL-13. (Significant wear, tears ACCESSORIES, 18th C - 1840 around armholes and back laces, laces replaced, One mull fichu tambour embroidered along one scattered spots) fair. Together with a single side and trimmed all around with handmade sleeve in matching silk, good. DLM tag. $300 Brussels lace, 20 x 43, (tiny holes, period mend, - 400 few small stains). One square mull scarf having woven border of narrow stripes, embroidered 20 LARGE EMBROIDERED SILK BAG with to one corner, 37 x 38, (two period mends along SPANGLES, 1770 -1800 one border). One dickey having collar with Gold faille with polychrome satin-stitch floral ruffled net embroidered along the scalloped decorated with paillettes on both sides, fold- edge, waist tie, L-15, (few holes, small spot on down collar studded with gold spangles edged back). All good. $200 - 400 in paillettes, with yellow silk fringe and moire faille drawstring, 10 1/2 x 12 1/2. (Spangle and 13 LACE-TRIMMED SATIN TIPPET, 1790 - 1810 paillette losses, some loose paillettes pinned to Cream sarcenet silk having a square collar over bag, minor soil at top) very good. $400 - 600 a small cape collar trimmed in black lace, silk ribbon ties at back, DLM tag. L-54 1/2. (Lace 21 TWO METALLIC EMBROIDERED SATIN fragile, tears and losses, some stitching losses, PURSES, 1790s and c. 1830 few light stains, tiny holes in collar, tie partially Both cream silk: The older a folding pocketbook unstitched) fair. $100 - 200 decorated in gold thread and spangles with pink, green and blue foil, having four interior 14 EARLY OFF-WHITE LINEN CORSET, 1740s Lot 16 pockets, two of which have a shaped flap, 6 Center front having fine horizontal lacing over 1/4 x 3 3/4, (loose binding threads, minor upper slit opening, 3/4-inch wide busk case embroidery losses) good. The later a pouch with sewn to front, hand-sewn eyelets, coarse linen striped cord drawstring having gold satin stitch lining. DLM tag “Very rare”. B-38, CBL-15. floral, the edge decorated with tiny gold beads, (Heavily soiled, tears and fraying at edges, some gold side tassels, DLM tag, 7 x 8, (splits to silk) spots, modern lace) fair. $500 - 700 fair. $250 - 350

15 TAN SILK FAILLE CORSET, 1750s 22 TWO SILK PURSES, 1790s - 1820s Back-lacing, top edged in metallic cord, center One round blue satin gathered into a black front panel having a crisscross of metallic cord, wool round front and back, decorated with tan stitching, tan linen lining, silk facings. soutache, silk drawstring top, DLM tag, 9 x 9, B-36, CBL-15. (Allover wear, several stays are (allover light spots, seam separation, tiny holes coming through the silk, metallic cord broken, in wool). One gold silk drawstring pouch with watermarks, modern laces) fair. $300 - 400 floral brocade and cream and burgundy ribbon Lot 17 stripes, fringed collar, silk drawstring with bows 16 RARE LATTICE-BONED BROWN LINEN and silk lining, 8 x 9, (minor soil). Together with CORSET, 1770s - 1780s a reproduction 1600s-style leather bag with Back-lacing with shoulder strap, the center-front three pouches and steel frame, c. 1900, 8 1/2 x slit has horizontal laces flanked by decorative 10 (soil and wear). Fair-excellent. $100 - 200 topstitching, vertical and lateral bones to the front, tan linen lining. Attached note “Worn by Miss Mary Ladds, Ellington, Huntingtonshire, 1711 AD” perhaps her birth date, DLM tag indicates purchased in October, 1964. B-36, CBL- 15. (Top edge crudely mended, some wear, few holes, large watermark) fair. $400 - 600 Lot 18

5 Lot 23 Lot 24

Lot 25 Lot 26

6 23 SILK BROCADE SACQUE GOWN, c. 1745 Terracotta silk brocaded with a branching white floral and polychrome floral clusters, gown having short sleeve with double fan cuff and furbelows with blue silk bow, attached English white cotton engageants of three scalloped ruffles having embroidered grapevine pattern, open front edged in furbelows trimmed with fancy cord scallops, back having stacked box pleats flanked by inverted pleats, the bodice lined in homespun, sleeve lined in silk; matching petticoat having three horizontal bands of furbelows and homespun lining, B-38, W-24, L-36, overall L-61. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Losses to cord trim, one undersleeve has a patch, one has small spot, few spots to gown front, minor breaks to brocade) excellent. $4000 - 6000

24 SACQUE GOWN and PETTICOAT, JOHN HANCOCK ESTATE, c. 1755 -1760 Duck egg blue silk twill brocaded with a serpentine vertical stripe of silver-grey flowers interspersed with polychrome floral sprays, robe having elbow-length sleeve with ruching, waistcoat front, trained back with Watteau pleats, trimmed with furbelows and fly fringe, lined in blue silk to the skirt front and brown silk to the back, matching petticoat trimmed with a pleated flounce above furbelows, both edged in fly fringe, mounted on blue-and-white homespun. Helen purchased from Chuck Davis, source John Hancock estate. B-34, W-24, L 55-64. (1/2-inch L-shaped tear and small worn spot in homespun, splits under right arm, scattered tiny holes in train, bodice lining has a 1-inch tear at back neck, unaltered but some additional stitching added, along with hooks & eyes) excellent. $6000 - 8000

25 SILK ROBE a la FRANCAISE, c. 1770 Cream robe and petticoat having cream stripe and alternating polychrome ribbon stripe with floral and geometric bands with brocade floral sprigs, short sleeve trimmed with furbelows edged in hairpin ribbon with pink ribbon and polychrome fringe, the open skirt is flanked with double helix of furbelows with colorful silk and raffia tassels, matching petticoat edged at the hem with hairpin ribbon. B-32, W-28, skirt L-39, overall L-64. (Alterations, upper sleeve replaced with fabric from petticoat back, petticoat back 20th C with drawstring, petticoat back relined, few minor spots, train has very small hole and soil at hem) very good. $1500 - 2500

26 ENGLISH OPEN ROBE of INDIAN COTTON CHINTZ, 1785 White having a polychrome pattern of vining flowers, lacing bodice with drawstring neckline and over-the-elbow length sleeve, bodice lined in white muslin, pleated skirt with slight train. B-33, W-26, L-57. Lot 148, Christie’s auction, July 14, 1969, the robe belonging to a Mrs. Halford of Kingsdale, purchased through Doris Langley Moore. (Tiny spots on bodice, several patch repairs on skirt, some 20th century alterations, several light stains on skirt hidden in folds, lacking petticoat) very good. $1200 - 1500

7 2

Lot 27 Lot 28

28 SPITALFIELDS SILK OPEN GOWN and PETTICOAT, 1780 29 FRENCH METALLIC BROCADE ROBE and Ivory silk brocade with self pattern and PETTICOAT, 1780 - 1794 polychrome floral sprays, altered c. 1780, Open robe of white silk with satin ribbon stripe probably originally a sacque, carefully pieced having a floral brocade in white and metallic with short-sleeve bodice, drawstring neckline, silver thread, trimmed in silver lace, having 27 STRIPED WATERED SILK OPEN ROBE, 1785 - 1793 linen lining with laces, trained skirt over over-the-elbow-length sleeve and train, brocade Pale pink moiré faille having cream vertical petticoat with side ties. B-36, W-32, L 54-59, petticoat having lace hem band at center front, stripe with brocaded blue dots alternating with petticoat W-38, L-38. Purchased from Amy taffeta back and upper side panels with side blue and brown floral devices, bodice lined in Pleadwell, Boston, 1960, dress originally had a ties. Shown by Doris Langley Moore in January, linen with hook & eye closures, over the elbow note from a Mrs. Mansfield, pinned to the dress 1953 in New York at Abraham & Strauss, a show length sleeve, drawstring neckline, deep front in 1829. It said the dress had been worn by her depicting costumes of Coronation years. New and back points, pleated skirt with slight train, grandmother at a reception given by Martha York Times article indicates all the costumes side seam having openings for pockets. B-32, Washington at Mount Vernon, not found with featured, including this dress, were from the W-24, L 51-59. Larson tag indicates “Worn by dress. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, collection of the British Royal family. Helen Rachel Donelson Robards as a young lady. She “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Small holes, two acquired this dress from Doris in 1959 as part later married Andrew Jackson”. No further repairs in skirt, some seam separation, very of her first purchase from Moore. B-36, W-24, provenance found. (Few tiny holes, lacking minor spots, train hem some soil) excellent. petticoat L 38-41, overall L 51-64. (Breaks and petticoat) excellent. $1200 - 1500 Together with fine 18th C lace trim and losses to metallic brocade, some tarnish, minor Victorian fancy-dress lace bows removed from seam separation, petticoat torn in back waist dress. $2500 - 3500 area) very good. $4000 - 6000

8 Lot 30

Lot 29

30 FRENCH MULL DRESS with SILVER EMBROIDERY, c. 1798 White Indian cotton with an overall pattern of silver embroidered sprigs with bows and serpentine tiny stars, having pointed cap sleeve over undecorated short sleeve, empire bodice, apron front with crossed front panels over cotton lining, gathered skirt. DLM tag. B-32, L-55. (Several holes and light stains at hem, scattered small tears and mends, embroidery losses, lacking some ties) good. $800 - 1200

9 31 THREE PAIR GENTLEMEN’S SILK BREECHES, 1700s All having fall front, corner pockets, wide waistband with gathered back and knee band: one celery green satin with metallic basket- weave buttons, single hook & eye leg closure with ribbon ties to knee band, W-30, Ins-16, (missing two suspender buttons, one hook & eye broken, lacking one silk tie and back lace, waistband has two unbound slit openings, faint spots); one black faille with self buttons, embroidered suspender buttons, watch pocket, W-26, Ins-18, (buttons holding fall missing, one pocket button damaged, four buttons missing at knee, front center seam fraying); one brown with black stripe having wide fall, hidden pockets, watch pocket, W-32, Ins-17 1/2, (wear to one knee, few small holes, back lace replaced, missing a knee button). Fair-good. $500 - 800

32 STRIPED COTTON BREECHES, c. 1760 Striped in two shades of brown having wide fall front over three-button waistband, watch pocket and corner pockets with two buttons, slightly gathered at back beneath waistband adjustment, six knee buttons above double silk ties, linen facings and pockets. W-30, Ins-17 1/2. (Linen insert at back waist split, tiny fade mark on waistband, 3/4 inch split on front of one leg, 1 1/4 inch split on back of the other) very good. $300 - 400

33 FIGURED and CUT VELVET BREECHES, c. 1760 Dark brown striped in two shades of green and cut to yellow and white dots, button fly, corner Lot 32 Lot 35 pockets and wide three-button waistband with two buttoning pockets, all with self buttons, buttoning side seam pockets, gathered back beneath waist adjustment with buckle, five knee buttons above wide strap closure, cotton lining. W-34, Ins-17. (2- inch split in seat, back adjustment partly unsewn, metal suspender buttons mismatched, some fraying to buttonholes) good. $300 - 500

34 THREE PAIR GENTLEMEN’S BREECHES, c. 1770 All having fall front, wide waistband, corner pockets and button knee closure: one green taffeta, upper waistband of brown wool, two waistband pockets, W-32, Ins-17, (missing all knee buttons, one pocket button, waistband mended, legs unhemmed, missing cuff band); one striped brown corduroy with full hide lining, watch pocket, W-34, Ins-18 1/2, (lacking back lace, mismatched buttons, minor spots, seat is worn); one gold and black figured velvet having self buttons, watch pocket with button, flannel lining, W-36, Ins-17, (one knee buckle missing, the back enlarged, button adjustment added, three back waistband buttons replaced) fair-very good. $500 - 800

35 PATTERN-WEAVE GOLD SILK BREECHES, 1770 Silk faille with a woven floral having narrow fall front over three-button waistband with watch pocket and self buttons, lacing back adjustment, four knee buttons above strap, cotton lining. W-30, Ins-19. (Lacking back lace) otherwise excellent. $400 - 600

Lot 33 Lot 36

10 Lot 38 Lot 39

38 EARLY BROCADED CLOTH of GOLD WAISTCOAT, 1735 Patterned allover in red and blue tulips with silver and green foliate vines, shaped pocket flaps, metallic-embroidered buttons with tinsel, cream satin backing and padded satin lining. (Significant losses to brocade, some repairs, large tears under arms, back neckline frayed, buttons tarnished) fair. $400 - 600 37 GENTLEMAN’S SILK WAISTCOAT and BREECHES, 1760 39 BROCADED CLOTH of SILVER WAISTCOAT, 1745 Lot 37 Green faille, the waistcoat trimmed in gold Long waistcoat having a brocade pattern with braid with gold basket-weave buttons, narrow, red and green berry clusters on a blue and shaped pocket flap, green wool backing, flannel silver lattice ground, woven metallic buttons lining and silk facings; matching fall-front to hem, twelve working button holes edged in 36 BLACK WOOL FALL-FRONT BREECHES, 1780s breeches having corner pockets and buttoning metal strips bound with metallic thread, curved Wide waistband with self buttons, corner side-seam pocket, wide waist buttons above and lobed pocket flaps with four buttons and pockets and single watch pocket, back gathered the knee band. Ch-34, L-28, W-34, Ins-16. (Some faux buttonholes, cream silk back and facings, into waistband with button tab, four knee tarnish, lining is soiled, waistcoat back has flannel lining. Ch-38, L-32. DLM tag, purchased buttons and button tab closure, flannel lining, scattered small moth holes, underarm fading, at Christie’s for Helen Larson, May 28, 1970. W-24, Ins-24 1/2. (Small mends on front, wool waist insert and fall-front backing have (Significant brocade losses, lining soiled, facings large moth holes in seat, silk fall-front facing moth holes, slightly faded in crotch area, one torn, back torn around neckline, some seam shattered) fair. $200 - 300 button detached) good. $600 - 900 separation) fair. $300 - 400

11 40 ENGLISH EMBROIDERED RIBBED SILK WAISTCOAT, 1770 Ivory having polychrome tambour-embroidered floral with meandering ribbons of spangles and beads with bowknots, embroidered buttons with spangles, shaped pocket flaps, wool backing, flannel lining with silk facings. Ch-36, L-30 1/2. (Enlarged at the sides, repaired with self fabric under arms, light spot, some moth holes in back, lining soiled, four buttons missing from pockets) good. $400 - 500

41 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED SILK WAISTCOAT, 1785 Cream satin having allover embroidered abstract devices in pink and blue silk and brown chenille, tall stand collar, front hem and shaped pocket flaps embroidered with foliage,embroidered buttons, black braided trim, cotton back having two ties and cotton lining with silk facings, Ch-38, L-27. (Backing and lining are soiled, some wear to braided trim) very good. $300 - 400

42 TWO CREAM EMBROIDERED WAISTCOATS, 1775 -1785. One ivory silk woven with narrow figured stripes, polychrome tambour floral borders, floral swags on and below the shaped pocket Lot 40 Lot 44 flaps, hand-painted buttons, glazed wool back pieced with striped silk, Ch-42, L-32. (Alterations, light stains, wear to buttons, holes in back, tear under one arm). One velvet cut to a pattern of tiny circles with red dot, embroidered with metallic thread in a floral pattern inset with colored foil, tiny silver sequins, embroidered buttons, shaped pocket flaps, faille back with ties, Ch-40, L-23. (Tarnish, foil and embroidery losses, center back seam open, lining torn at neck and hem). Both fair $300 - 500

43 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED SILK WAISTCOAT, 1795 Cream satin having polychrome satin-stitch embroidery with a leaf and floral branch border to the center front, stand collar, hem and shaped pocket flaps on a ground of embroidered sprigs, embroidered buttons, silk twill back with button tab adjustment, silk lining, Ch-40, L-22. (Lacking back button, back has several tiny splits) excellent. $300 - 500

44 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED DIMITY WAISTCOAT, 1795 Cream cotton with woven stripe, double- breasted having nine self buttons, stand/fold- down collar, embroidered lapels, embroidered in silver thread and tiny sequins in a sawtooth motif and a foliate hem border, straight pockets, cotton back with two ties and cotton lining, Ch- 36, L-23. (Few small spots, few missing sequins, Lot 41 Lot 43 evenly tarnished, back soiled and stained) very good. $350 - 450

12 45 GENTLEMAN’S SATIN EMBROIDERED WEDDING COAT, 1740s Cream silk having tone-on-tone satin-stitch exotic floral, stand collar, shaped pocket flaps, thirteen embroidered buttons, silk facings, wool lining, embroidered back skirts folded and stitched down, possibly an alteration. Ch-36, Sh-14, Slv-25, L-35. DLM tag dated 1981, one of Helen’s last purchases from Doris Langley Moore. (One buttonhole lightly stained, few minor spots, soil, light stains and tiny holes to lining, 1 1/2-inch split mended on back of collar, seam separation to one cuff, cuffs lacking buttons) very good. $1000 - 1500

46 GENTLEMAN’S FIGURED VELVET COAT, 1740 Rust silk having repeating black and yellow flowers amid meandering white lines, 13 pierced metallic gold buttons, deep pockets with wide, shaped flap over three buttons, deep extended cuff with three buttons, pleated skirts with center vent and button trim, silk facings, cotton lining. Ch-38, Sh-17, Slv-23, L-38. (Some wear to velvet, particularly around neckline and shoulders, one pocket lacking buttons, one button missing from back, center back seam separation at neck, facings torn, tear under one arm, velvet pieced around right armhole, Lot 45 Lot 47 possibly a repair) good. $800 - 1000 47 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED COAT and WAISTCOAT, 1780s Coat of ribbed cream silk having fold- down collar with squared ends, wide cuff, embroidered loop-and-tassel motif in metallic thread and sequins, decorated buttons, pleated skirts with center vent, green silk lining. Ch- 34, L-39. (Splits to collar, shoulder and lining, fading and tarnish, back enlarged). Cotton gauze waistcoat patterned with a repeating floral in cream embroidery and pink and silver sequins, related decoration as to coat on pockets, buttons and borders, cotton backing and silk facings, Ch-38, L-28. (Brown stains, sequin losses, back enlarged and split) fair. $400 - 600

48 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED WOOL COAT, 1780 Plum velour decorated with cream satin appliqué, gold silk and silver metallic embroidery, silver spangles and domes with paste jewels in a pattern of ribbons, swags and tassels, silver-covered buttons with embroidery, narrow band collar, deep cuff and shaped pocket flap, pleated back skirts and center vent, cream satin lining. Ch-32, L-40. (Some moth damage, missing one cuff button and one skirt button, tears and repairs to lining) good. $1200 - 1500

Lot 46 Lot 48

13 Lot 50

Lot 51

Lot 49

Lot 52 Lot 53

14 51 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED WOOL COAT, 1785 Dark brown broadcloth having polychrome Lot 55 Detail satin-stitch floral embroidery, stand collar, deep cuff and shaped pocket flap, embroidered buttons, pleated skirts, center vent, partial linen lining. Ch-40, L-39. (Embroidery losses, several large mends, scattered holes, missing several buttons, early relining covers buttonholes) fair. $400 - 500

52 GENTLEMAN’S SILK EMBROIDERED COAT, 1780s Sage green faille having a delicately embroidered satin stitch floral in pastel hues, narrow stand collar, deep cuff and shaped pocket flap with embroidered buttons, back skirt vented between two pleats, cream satin lining. Ch-36, L-40. (Back of collar repaired, one cuff missing a button, one cuff missing all buttons, large watermarks on lower coat) good. $600 - 800

53 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED SILK COAT, 1785 Brown silk decorated with blue and white vining floral in satin stitch decorating the collar, cuff, front, square-cut pocket flaps and buttons, skirt pleated at back with top and bottom self buttons and embroidered center vent, three working buttons and two hook & eye closures, back and sleeves lined in cream linen, otherwise lined in brown silk. Purchased from Cora Ginsberg. Ch-36, Sh-14, Slv-24, L-41. Excellent. $1800 - 2200

54 GENTLEMAN’S SATIN COAT and WAISTCOAT, 1790 Topaz silk having cloth-of-gold buttons inset with faceted green and amethyst-colored sets, coat with stand collar, deep, shaped pocket flap, wide cuff, four working buttonholes, silk lining Lot 54 with homespun back, pleated skirts with center vent; matching waistcoat with narrower pocket flap, homespun backing and silk facings. Ch-36, L-41. (Coat has small hole in the neck facing, scattered very minor faded spots, several black marks on front skirt, minor tarnish to some buttons, waistcoat buttons mostly have tarnish and losses, light yellow spots to the homespun, few small red marks) coat excellent, waistcoat good. $1500 - 2000

55 GENTLEMAN’S COAT and WAISTCOAT 49 YOUNG MAN’S EMBROIDERED COAT, 1780 50 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED SATIN COAT, 1785 ENSEMBLE, 1790 Beige felted wool having cutaway front, fold- Pale gold silk having a very finely worked Brown velvet coat woven in a pattern of beige down collar, pleated skirts with center vent, tambour-embroidered floral in gold and aqua and dotted green checks, lavishly embroidered decorated with narrow bands of tiny sequins silk, band collar, deep cuffs trimmed with ivory with white silk, metallic cord, gold sequins flanked by coiled silver thread, embroidered lace, slightly shaped pocket flaps, self buttons and paste jewels, fancy embroidered buttons, buttons with turquoise foil centers, pale green embroidered with floral sprigs, pleated skirts, gold silk cuff with lace trim, gold waistcoat silk lining. Ch-32, L-39. (Moth damage, small center vent, two faux corded buttonholes and with matching decoration and linen back. Coat mends, collar is soiled, lining has some holes a pair of hook & eye closures, silk lining and Ch-34, L-40, waistcoat Ch-36, L-25. (Alterations and tears) fair. $300 - 400 facings. Ch-34, Sh-15, Slv-25, L-43. (Few very to coat, collar very worn and held together faint stains in button and hem area, lining torn with pins, significant embroidery losses, lining in shoulder area and at hem, light stains and removed, waistcoat embroidery losses, overall repairs to lining, stitch marks suggest coat was damage to fabric, collar torn, large holes and taken in at back and then let out) good. $800 - 1200 tears to back) coat fair, w poor. $500 - 800

15 Lot 56 Lot 57 Lot 58

Lot 59 Lot 60 Lot 61

16 56 RED WOOL MILITARY COAT, LATE 18th C 60 GENTLEMAN’S 3-PIECE WOOL SUIT, 1785 Cutaway style having ivory stand collar and Pale pink felted wool coat and breeches, cuff, decorated in metallic braid, metallic oyster silk faille waistcoat, embroidered with buttons with crown surmounting “GY”, silver thread and spangles in a pattern of straight-cut tail pockets lined in linen, tails have tasseled scallops and swags with silver domes, embroidered crown within star flanked by script embroidered silver foil buttons, coat having “G” and “Y”. Ch-36, Sh-14, Slv-24, L-41. (Some narrow stand collar, deep cuff, shaped pocket moth damage, dime size hole patched, soil, flap, pleated back skirt with center vent, silk tarnish, one embroidered ornament missing) lining, Ch-36, L-41; fall front breeches having fair. $200 - 300 corner pockets, waist band pockets and pair of watch pockets all with self buttons, embroidered 57 GENTLEMAN’S 3-PIECE PRINTED VELVET SUIT, 1750 knee band and five button closures, W-28, Ins- Salmon panné velvet with repeating black floral 19; faille waistcoat embroidered with a sprigged devices having buttons with metallic silver ground, having shaped pockets and wool back, embroidery, coat with deep cuff and shaped Ch-36, L-28. (The coat is soiled, surface moth pocket flaps, pleated skirts with center vent, damage, few tiny holes, tarnish, large tears to pink satin lining; waistcoat with shaped pocket lining; breeches have numerous holes, some flaps and flannel lining; button-fly breeches mends and seam separation; waistcoat has with two-button corner pockets over two watch large holes and tears, underarm stains, several pockets in wide waistband with self buttons, damaged and one missing button). Coat good, knee buttons and metallic galloon straps, backed breeches and waistcoat fair. $600 - 800 in salmon silk, flannel lining. Coat Ch-36, Sh-14, Slv-26, L-41 1/2, waistcoat Ch-36, L-30, 61 FIGURED VELVET 2-PIECE COURT SUIT, 1780 - 1810 breeches W-36. (Losses and tarnish to buttons, Coat and breeches of black ribbed velvet some missing, numerous splits and mends, figured with cream silk floral devices having satin lining very stained, waistcoat back pinned polychrome satin stitch floral, tall stand collar, together) poor. $400 - 500 shaped pocket flaps, deep cuffs with lace ruffle, triple-vented skirts with narrow pleat, 58 RARE SPANISH GENTLEMAN’S 3-PIECE embroidered buttons; fall-front breeches with VELVET SUIT, c. 1760 wide waistband, two waistband pockets, self Brown rose having a horizontal stripe of figured buttons, embroidered knee band, gathered and uncut velvet embroidered with sequins and back with tab waist adjustment, flannel facings. gold tambour embroidery, fancy embroidered Ch-42, L-48, W-41, Ins-18. (Coat is relined, some buttons, coat with stand collar, shaped faux embroidery loss, minor wear under arms, slight pocket flap and deep cuff, two inside pockets, wear in crotch area) very good. Together with mint green satin lining, pleated skirts, vented two cravats: one linen (holes), one net and lace back; matching waistcoat with working pockets, (stained) fair. $2000 - 2600 wool back and satin lining; button-fly breeches with angled, wide two pocket waistband, corner pockets, single buttoning side-seam pocket, gathered at back into waistband with laces, four-button cuff with embroidered band, flannel lining. Helen purchased in London, 1963 from Moyorcas Ltd., original invoice and customs form included. Ch-38, jacket L-41,W-30, Ins-16 . (Overall tarnish to decoration, coat has some wear under arms, period mends to lining in neck area, black marks to one sleeve, large stains to coat hem; waistcoat is faded under arms, back enlarged, small moth holes to wool, patched with purple silk damask; breeches lacking majority of upper buttons and three at the knee, some wear and few small dark stains) good. $3000 - 5000

59 GENTLEMAN’S 2-PIECE EMBROIDERED SUIT with SPANGLES, 1780 Two-piece beige wool broadcloth embroidered with pink and blue silk, spangles, silver cord and cerise foil, fancy buttons having foil overlay and embroidery, coat having inside pockets, pleated skirts, back vent and silk lining; fall- front breeches with corner pockets and gathered back, knee buttons and tab closure. Ch-34, L-41, W-32, Ins-18. (Coat has moth damage, embroidery losses, large tears and repairs to lining, missing one back button, breeches have a large patch and several repairs to seat, some moth holes) fair. $400 - 800

17 62 TAN LINEN CORSET, 67 SIX RUFFLED WHITE COTTON 71 SILK BONNET with SELF BRAID, 1830s c. 1800 CAPS, 1800 - 1830 Brown satin decorated with two self braids Back lacing with Some pattern weaves, and copper ribbon bow and ties, under-brim of shortened torso some with lace, some pleated cream gauze with woven stripe. 8 x 11 silhouette having embroidered, three x 9 1/2. (Lining has some splits near brim edge) shoulder strap, center having DLM tag. (One very good. $150 - 250 front is notched with with several tears to fixed laces, top edge ruffle) good-excellent. 72 COLLAPSABLE CALASH BONNET, 1830s bound in suede, $250 - 350 Blue-green changeable silk having four raised includes custom mount. cane ribs, pleated bavolet, pleated and fringed Under bust-32, CBL-13. 68 SILK BONNET with front ruffle, back inset with cardboard panel, (Back lace replaced) FORGET-ME-NOTS, c. 1825 brown silk ribbon ties. 10 x 15 flat. Excellent. excellent. $1200 - 1500 Cream faille trimmed with $150 - 250 sprays of tiny blue flowers, 63 TWO WHITE COTTON having tapered crown 73 TWO COLLAPSIBLE SILK CALASH CORSETS, 1825 - 1835 and wide, tall BONNETS, 1830s Both having shoulder brim with One navy blue narrow bonnet straps, quilting, metal blue having five ribs, slim grommets and cotton twill ribbon ties, unlined, H-10, lining: One with tan piping, (few pinholes). One stitching, 1 3/8-inch busk, partial brown with six silk ribbon tie to busk case, silk lining, raised cane B-30, CBL-16. (Soiled, busk includes ribs, ruffled is a prop, tiny spot, laces custom bavolet, replaced). One having off- Lot 62 mount taffeta bow white stitching and narrow and large and ties, center stay, B-26, CBL-14 1/2. (Minor moiré bow mesh lining, soil, top edge frayed, some stitch losses, of later date. 14 x 13 flat, laces replaced, two small spots) very good. Sold Christie’s July 11, (scattered tiny $500 - 700 1967, lot 167. 16 x 13 x 11 holes and few 1/2. (Some spots, wear small holes above 64 BROWN COTTON SATEEN CORSET, c. 1835 to piping, crown unlined, front ruffle, mesh Back-lacing with shoulder strap, white stitching, some flowers need re- lining torn, splits to ties, one metal grommets, 1 1/2-inch busk casing, with tacking) very good. $300 upper tie detached). Good-very wooden busk. B-32, CBL-16. (Repair, fraying - 500 good. $150 - 250 and stains to busk casing, edge wear, lacking laces) good. $300 - 400 69 NATURAL STRAW 74 TWO COLLAPSIBLE SILK BONNET with LACE CALASHES, 1830s Lot 68 65 FIVE WHITE or CREAM LACE CAPS, 1800 - 1830 TRIM, c. 1830 One dull black with five raised One patterned knit; one knotted ribbon; one Having deep brim cane hoops, front ruffle and dotted net with embroidered ruffle (few small wired and edged in floral embroidered net, bavolet, silk ribbon neck ties, 12 x 16 1/2 flat, holes); one with floral repeat and ruffle (age indented crown, pink and blue ribbon band (missing one upper tie, scattered tiny holes, toning, lacking drawstring); one net with floral with ruched detail, 10 x 11 x 1/2. Lot includes ends of canes have worn through binding at embroidery and ruffles. Good-excellent. $100 - brocade ribbon trim and cloth flowers, inside neck). One green with eight cane ribs, 200 circa 1950, removed from hat. ruffled bavolet and back bow, silk brocade (Three small breaks on ribbon ties, stiffened 66 FOUR NET crown edge, scattered mesh CAPS, 1800 tiny holes, interior lining, - 1830 band removed) 12 1/2 One good. $400 x 15 with - 600 1/2 muslin flat, crown 70 (wear and NATURAL to rib wide LEGHORN binding, lace STRAW scattered border, BONNET, c. 1830 tiny holes, DLM tag; Finely woven bonnet splits to one knotted with tall crown and ribbon ties). ribbon with wide brim having Good. $200 cotton border semicircular band of - 300 and eyelet pink silk, back and trim; two net under-brim trimmed with silk ribbon: with brown silk picoted one having pink ribbon ruffles, ribbon and green plaid ties, unlined interior with Lot 63 Detail ribbon, (holes, mesh band, includes feathers and floral Lot 69 mends, ribbon replaced); one trim c. 1930 removed from hat, tag indicates with green and yellow striped silk ribbon, purchased from Doris Langley Moore, 16 x 12 x (holes). Good-excellent. $100 - 200 8. Excellent. $1200 - 1500

18 75 TWO BONNETS with RIBBON TRIM, 1830s 81 TWO SAME-PRINT One finely woven tan straw having pieced brim COTTON DRESSES, ONE and green silk bows, lined in thin cotton, 11 x MATERNITY, 1798 - 1802 13, (L-shaped break in brim, small break and Both cream printed with loss to brim edge and bavolet) fair. One green delicate grass forms in silk having pink velvet trim and cloth flowers deep red, trained with over wide green moiré faille band and long ties, cotton under-bodice and cream silk lining, 11 x 9 1/2, (some edge wear, gathered at center back 83 WHITE tiny spots, small holes and spots on crown) and pleated at the sides, COTTON good. $200 - 400 both having DLM tags: MUSLIN DRESS One having fall open with EMBROIDERED 76 THREE FANCY WHITE INDOOR BONNETS, front and buttons on SPRIGS, c. 1800 1830s - 1840s the shoulder, very high Tambour- One net having silk ribbon lattice on crown with waist with narrow self embroidered embroidered net ruffles and silk ribbon bows sash attached to back with polychrome and ties, (significant tears and holes to net and waist, a ruched cap pansies and tiny trim). One whitework trimmed with fancy blue sleeve with decorative sprigs, fall-open and white gauze ribbons and lace, DLM tag, tabs and buttons over bodice having (few minor holes). One embroidered net having a plain cotton short short sleeve striped coral ribbon drawstrings and lappets. sleeve with tucks, B-32, with four Fair-excellent. $200 - 300 L 51-74 (1/2 inch hole narrow tucks, in skirt, some browning a wider tuck 77 TWO VERY FINE PAIRS of LADIES’ GLOVES, to undersleeves); one down the 1800 - 1830 maternity having short, One pair grey, loose-fitting to the elbow with slightly puffed sleeve white topstitched details, L-17 1/4; one pair with ruched cap, crossed white wrist-length with tambour-embroidered front panels and a white floral, silk bow with mother-of-pearl button at cotton tie set in the back wrist, pierced and sawtooth scalloped edge. waist, under-bodice has L-9. Copy of DLM correspondence included. two ties and cord loops, Excellent. $200 - 300 possibly to hold the bodice open for nursing, Lot 81 78 SIX PAIR LADIES’ LONG SILK MITTS, 1800s - white under sleeve, large side openings, B-34, 1850s L-55-68 (few small brown spots on skirt front, center front crosses another tuck above the All knit in various lace patterns: Two cream, one two brown stains on train, one sleeve stained at ruffled hem, center back having ties around peach, one yellow, one pale green (one glove cuff, tie replaced). Very good. $5000 - 7000 to front, shoulder backing stamped with large stained), one teal. L-16-20. Good-excellent. “RD” and numbers visible through muslin. $100 - 200 82 MULL DRESS with METALLIC DLM tag. B-34, L-56. (Scattered period EMBROIDERY, c. 1800 mends and small holes, snaps added 79 WOMAN’S White cotton having to fall front, holes in undersleeve, and CHILD’S short sleeve fall-open upper back skirt has two repairs) CREAM LINEN bodice, a wide very good. $1200 - 1500 CHEMISES, band of foliate 1780 - 1810. embroidery in 84 TRAINED SEAWEED PRINT Both having white satin stitch COTTON DRESS, c. 1800 short sleeve with edged with gold Calico dress with brown triangular gusset: tambour embroidery seaweed print on yellow Woman’s A-line decorated with gold background, having shaped with pleats to sequins decorates the long sleeve high-waist the front and back neckline, fall and hem, the neckline fall-open empire bodice cross-stitch W. C monogram, and sleeve with narrow inset with white cotton B-38, L-50, (small seam embroidered band, B-26, L drawnwork bands, sash separation, two faint blue 55-58. (Few small holes, attached to center back spots); child’s having notched two tiny spots, metallic waist, apron front having neckline and side slits, B-30, thread and sequins gathered sides with ties, L-21, (holes and tear above one are tarnished) wide-cut skirt with long, side slit, scattered light brown excellent. Larson curved train squared at spots). Fair-excellent. $100 - 200 collection tag the end. B-32, L 43-70. indicates dress was Larson archive indicates 80 WHITE COTTON DRESS with purchased from dress purchased from Doris CORDING, c. 1800 Cora Ginsberg. $600 Langley Moore. (Small tear Fall-open bodice having crossed - 800 in train, bodice lining has front, drawstring neckline, long four brown spots, 1/2- sleeve with fifteen bands of self inch tear in skirt) excellent. piping and slightly ruffled cuff, back Lot 71 $1200 - 1800 having ties inset above tiny pleats, hemline decorated with tucks and a pair of ruffles. DLM tag. B-24, L-51. (Two tiny holes, scattered tiny spots) excellent. $1200 - Lot 84 1500

19 85 SPRIGGED MUSLIN DRESS with TRAIN, 1805 89 GRACE FLETCHER WEBSTER MUSLIN DRESS, 1805 92 AMERICAN FLORAL STRIPED SILK DRESS, c. 1810 White cotton having fall-open bodice attached Trained white cotton empire gown sprigged Fashioned from 1770s pink and ivory jacquard, at shoulder with embroidered buttons, bodice with satin-stitch floral devices, short sleeve having long sleeve empire bodice with slightly front and sleeve decorated with embroidered drawstring bodice having two ties over crossed gathered square neckline, back hook & eye net inserts, satin stitch and tambour embroidery under-panels, slit back with tie above center closures, self band at waist, bodice back lined and drawn threadwork, under-bodice with pleats, long train. Tag: “Grace Fletcher Webster”. in muslin. Tag indicates “from Wallingford, matching embroidery, long trained skirt She was wife of Daniel Webster, born 1781. Conn.” B-30, W-24, L-51. (Waistband torn at decorated with tambour-embroidered sprigs of Note: an acquisition card states that Grace back closure, missing hook & eye, mended seam quatrefoil flowers, B-28, L 50-77. Exhibited at the Webster gown was acquired from the Daniel back of shoulder, minor wear to hem edge) very Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, Webster family estate, purchased from Georia good. $800 - 1200 1991. (20th C underskirt added) excellent. $2500 - 3500 Bly along with note “Worn by Grace Fletcher Webster”. B-28, L 50-75. (Scattered small holes, 93 ENGLISH DAMASK GOWN with FLORAL 86 UNUSUAL MUSLIN DRESS with PALM TREE period patch repair on skirt, numerous period BORDER, c. 1810 EMBROIDERY, 1805 mends) good. $500 - 700 White satin figured with floral devices, having Transparent white cotton with fall-open bodice empire bodice with square neck and short and long sleeve, having tambour embroidered 90 GRACE FLETCHER WEBSTER SPRIGGED MULL sleeve inset with floral lace above a double palm leaves in brown and green decorating the DRESS, 1808 ruffle, two back ties, wide A-line skirt patterned neckline and cuff, slightly trained skirt with a White cotton having an empire bodice of with floral sprigs and swags. B-34, high W-30, border of palm trees above a band of foliage, embroidered net with short, puffed mull sleeve, L-50. (Several minor spots, light watermarks) front drawstring neckline, apron front, DLM net trim and back with drawstring ties and net excellent. $1500 - 2000 tag, B-28, L-54-57. (Embroidered binding torn inserts, slightly trained skirt covered in satin- and slightly soiled at neckline, lacking ties, some stitch embroidered sprigs and dotted devices 94 MARIA MONROE’S FRENCH SILK DRESS with tearing to cuffs, scattered minor holes and faint, with single side opening, wide tuck above hem, EMBROIDERY, 1814 tiny spots) very good. $1500 - 1800 tag: “Grace Fletcher Webster”. She was wife Aquamarine jacquard with tiny diagonal of Daniel Webster, born 1781. Note: Larson stripes figured with leaf devices, empire bodice 87 FRENCH EMBROIDERED MULL DRESS, 1805 acquisition card states Grace Webster gown with short puffed sleeve and a hem border of White cotton having empire bodice with short was acquired from the Daniel Webster family polychrome satin-stitch embroidery below a sleeve, embroidered with curved bands of moss estate, purchased from Georgia Bly along with wide tuck, drawstring neckline, embroidered roses and foliage to the front hem and sleeve, note “Worn by Grace Fletcher Webster”. B-26, L gauze ribbon waistband, bodice is lined in linen. center panel and upper sleeve embroidered 46-49. (Large hole and several tears in hem area, From “A Sample list of Children’s Clothes” with small star flowers, drawstring neckline scattered smaller holes and mends in upper typed by Helen Larson: “1814 Maria Monroe- with scalloped embroidery, three back buttons skirt) fair. $500 - 700 daughter of James Monroe...Maria Monroe wore between two drawstrings. DLM tag. B-34, L this dress when she was ten years old and made 46-48. (Scattered small holes, few period mends, 91 MUSLIN DRESS with CREWEL EMBROIDERY, news wearing it with pantalettes in Washington, tear at hem, cluster of small spots above hem AMERICAN, 1810 D.C.”, bodice inked in 20th C writing “Made in border) good. $400 - 600 White cotton embroidered with pink, red and Paris, 1814, for Maria Monroe”. B-26, L-42 1/2. olive green posies, having fall-open bodice (Few tiny holes in sleeves, few small faint spots) 88 EMBROIDERED MUSLIN DRESS with and long sleeve with slightly puffed cuff, front excellent. $800 - 1200 RETICULE, c. 1808 neckline edged in three ruched bands, bodice White cotton with a diagonal trail of cutwork back and sides lined in cotton, center back 95 SHEER COTTON DRESS with YARN and embroidered flowers in white across skirt gathered, narrow tie threaded through two EMBROIDERY, c. 1815 front and around hem, short puffed sleeve loops at back. DLM tag. B-32, L 48-51. (Several White with embroidered hem and front panel with ruching and embroidery, embroidered period mends, snaps added to bodice oxidized, having large colorful flowers and sprigs, bodice neckline with drawstring, center back lined scattered small holes mainly in the hem area) with short puffed sleeve and crossed front in linen. Purchased from Mrs. W. R. Witherell, good. $600 - 800 panels creating a curved V-neck, two ties at North Adams, Massachusetts in 1958, worn by back, skirt having gauged back gathers. B-34, Caroline Ann Mills of Huntington, Fairfield L-52. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, County, Connecticut. Caroline Anne was born “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Cotton lining is a in 1792 in New Haven and in 1816 married Dr. 20th C addition, scattered small mends, cluster Timothy Phelps Beers, who was the head of the of tiny spots near hem, ) very good. $1200 - 1500 Medical Department of Yale University for 25 years. B-32, L 48-51. Whitework reticule purse with cornucopia of flowers with fancy net and tassels, inked “by Caroline” and “to Eliza”. 6 x 8. (Few tiny holes, period mend, skirt back with several small slits) dress very good, reticule excellent. $800 - 1200

Lot 88 Detail

20 Lot 83 Lot 87 Lot 90 Lot 91

Lot 94

Lot 93 Lot 95

21 Lot 96 Lot 97 Lot 99

96 ENGLISH EMBROIDERED MULL DRESS, 1815 98 MUSLIN DRESS with PUFFED SLEEVES, 1815 White cotton having empire bodice and long White cotton with fall-open bodice and apron sleeves with puffed shoulder cap of raised front with ties having long sleeve puffed at the ruched channels with drawstring, a similar shoulder and ruched into three embroidered treatment to the cuff, embroidered with satin- buttons and three bands of self piping, cuffed stitch sprigs, slightly trained skirt with a series with an eyelet band, gathered at center back, of puffed chevrons set on the side above a slightly trained skirt having five tucks at the puffed hem ruffle, ties at back, neck and waist. hem. DLM tag. B-28, L 52-56. (4-inch mend to B-28, L 50-54. (Holes and noticeable period one side of skirt, apron front is frayed along the mends) good. $1200 - 1500 top edge, few tiny brown marks) good. $500 - 700

97 ENGLISH REGENCY FIGURED DRESS with 99 NILE GREEN FIGURED SILK PELISSE, 1815 SPENCER, 1815 - 1818 Trimmed with an appliqué of piped satin Van Cocoa silk fall-open gown figured with tiny Dyke points along center front, hem and cuffs flowers having elaborate satin shoulders with with pleated rolls of satin, neckline edged rouleaux, cord and tassels over long sleeve with in black velvet, faux dorset buttons over piped bands and tassels, padded hem with hook & eye closures, white silk lining, inside rouleaux and cord band above scalloped gauze tie. Featured in the Monsanto exhibition at ruffle; matching spencer decorated with satin Disneyland, “Fabrics and Fashions Through the ruffles, fancy braid and tassels. DLM tag, lot Ages”, 1965. B-30, W-21, L-53. (Few tiny holes, 124, Christie’s auction July 14, 1969. B-30, high small spot and faint stain in skirt. minor fading) W-24, L-54. (3/4-inch split, two small holes and excellent. $1500 - 2500 small spot on skirt, holes and tears to hem ruffle, spencer slightly faded, stain and spots on cuffs, small stain on back) good. $3000 - 4000

22 Lot 100 Lot 102

Lot 103

100 GENTLEMAN’S NANKEEN BREECHES, c. 1800 103 GENTLEMAN’S CREAM COTTON DOESKIN Buff cotton with self buttons, fall-front over TROUSERS, 1820 three waist buttons, corner pockets, ceramic Fall-front having two angled pockets flanking suspender buttons, lacing back adjustment a three-button fly, watch pocket, suspender over cotton gore, four knee buttons above buttons, high back waist, long straight legs. narrow band with cotton ties. W-34, Ins-18. W-30, Ins-29. (Back enlarged with triangular (Small brown spots to one knee, tiny worn spot, cotton gusset, few tiny spots and several minor one knee tie missing, some replaced buttons) abrasions, three buttons replaced, age toning to excellent. $400 - 600 creases) very good. $600 - 900 Lot 104 101 GENTLEMAN’S ENGLISH CREAM SATIN 104 GENTLEMAN’S PLAID COTTON WAISTCOAT, BREECHES, 1800 c. 1810 Fall-front over three buttons, corner pockets, Blue, black and white woven plaid having self buttons, composition suspender buttons, narrow double breast with self buttons and a back buckle adjustment, four buttons above pair of buttons to create optional lapels, stand knee strap having oval buckle with paste jewels, collar, hemline pockets, white cotton back with silk lining and cotton facings. W-32, Ins-21. Tag two sets of ties, cotton lining. Ch-44, L-23 1/2. indicates purchased from Cora Ginsburg. (Some Two small brown spots and a faint stain in splits along side fold lines, on fall front and button area) excellent. $200 - 300 crotch, two buttons detached from silk covering) good. $200 - 300 105 GENTLEMAN’S SILK BROCADE WAISTCOAT, 1810 Cream silk twill with a polychrome floral 102 RARE MAN’S WOOL CORDUROY DAYTIME brocade stripe having narrow double breast, BREECHES, 1805 fold-down collar and wide lapel, black wool- Tan with fall-front and silver metal buttons, covered buttons, straight pockets, cotton back watch pocket and corner pockets with self and lining. Lot 37 Christie’s auction, July 15, buttons, pieced back with waist tie having 1968. Ch-38, L-16. (Seven of twelve buttons brown cotton insert, knee having four self missing and one detached, stained under one buttons and silk ties. W-30, Ins-19. Tag indicates arm, back replaced, minor stain on lapel) good. purchased from Cora Ginsburg.(Surface moth $250 - 350 damage, a small hole, suspender buttons Lot 105 removed, one silk tie torn) good. $600 - 800

23 Lot 113

Lot 106 Lot 114 Lot 111 Detail

108 EMBROIDERED SHAWL with LACE TRIM Lot 109 Detail 1800 - 1825 Oversized white gauze square, the field having 106 GENTLEMAN’S EMBROIDERED WOOL repeating embroidered leaf devices within a 112 TWO PRINTED PAISLEY SHAWLS, 1835 - 1855 TAILCOAT, c. 1835 wide border of grape clusters with geometric One gold cashmere square with woven Black broadcloth straight-cut front below edge, trimmed with delicate lace to the four silk stripe flanked on the field with printed waist seam, stand collar, embroidered with a sides. 60 x 62. (Some period mends and burgundy filigree, polychrome paisley borders heavy satin-stitch oak leaves, acorns, foliage pinholes) very good. $300 - 500 flanking a dotted cream band with floral and berries, silk buttons with fancy gilt clusters, 65 x 68 (stains, holes and repairs) fair. collars. Ch-34, L-38. (Few moth holes, some 109 BLONDE LACE SHAWL with AQUA TINT, c. 1820 One oversized silk and wool long shawl having embroidery losses, missing one cuff button) Handmade silk bobbin lace with floral cluster a cream field with repeating polychrome floral good. Assembled with a pair of black button-fly at the center and ends on a ground of repeating devices within a wide paisley border with silk trousers having velvet side stripe embroidered posies, having a wide border of cutwork within fringe, DLM tag, 67 x 67, (few tears in field and with the same pattern of spiraling leaves as swags and scallops with floral bands. 28 x 110. large tears along fringe line) good. $300 - 500 appears on the jacket, concealed pockets, back (Some small holes, few red stains) excellent. waist adjustment. W-26, Ins-31. (Large moth $500 - 700 113 SILK and CUT VELVET SHAWL, 1850 holes) fair. $300 - 500 Royal blue taffeta having a black velvet foliate 110 WARP PRINTED SILK SHAWL, c. 1830 repeat on lattice swags, trimmed with black and 107 GENTLEMAN’S 2-PIECE BLACK WOOL Ivory chine taffeta having abstract pink pattern blue striped fringe. DLM tag with “Biedermeier COURT SUIT, 1830 within a polychrome scrolling floral border, style” notation, 72x 20. $200 - 300 Cutaway tailcoat with tall stand collar having knotted self fringe at the end borders. Purchased deep lace-trimmed cuff, fancy-cut steel buttons from Doris Langley Moore who acquired it 114 CREAM LACE SHAWL with LAVENDER with two working button holes, hook & eye through Sotheby’s, April 24, 1968. 25 x 50. STRIPES, 1860 closures, faux pockets with shaped flap, pleated (One small spot, pinholes, mostly near border) Oversized demilune of embroidered net printed tails with deep pockets, padded and quilted silk excellent. $300 - 400 with radiating fan motif of lavender bands lining, back of neck has basted on silk bag with backed in cream tulle, 53 x 134. (Scattered small wig element, breeches with fall-front breeches 111 UNUSUAL FRENCH PAISLEY PRINT WOOL holes, two larger holes within printed band, over button fly, wide waistband with watch SHAWL, 1840s minor edge wear) good. $300 - 400 pocket, hidden inside waistband pocket, lacing Oversized fine black mousseline de laine back adjustment, suspender buttons, four- woven with a satin stripe and windowpane end 115 UNUSUAL CHINESE EXPORT SILK SHAWL, 19th C button knee closure with strap, Ch-38, coat L-39 borders, having polychrome print of botehs in a Cream “turnover” shawl having shaded satin- 1/2, W-32, Ins-21. (Some tearing to the lining honeycomb lattice within a wide paisley border, stitch floral divided on the diagonal in green and soil at neck, silk waistband facings are torn, knotted fringe. DLM tag with notation “Very and brown halves with knotted silk fringe, steel buttons removed from knee closures) very rare”. 69 x 134. (Some holes and tears in the reversible. 60 x 64 with 8-inch fringe. (Scattered good. $600 - 800 border) good. $600 - 800 small spots, stain in one corner) good. $300 - 500

24 Lot 115 Detail

116 FIGURED SILK SHOES with METALLIC EMBROIDERY, c. 1800 Cream straight flats with tapered toe decorated with flower in gold sequins and tinsel, silk binding with tiny drawstring, linen lining and Lot 119 kid insole, L-8 3/4. (Losses to silk and mends) fair. $300 - 500

117 TWO PAIR CREAM LEATHER SLIPPERS, 1800s and 1820s - 1830s 122 TWO PAIR FLORAL EMBROIDERED SILK One pair having silk bow vamp and ribbon SLIPPERS, 1830s - 1840s loop ties, canvas insole, red leather heel guards Black satin straight flats with polychrome in interior, L-9 1/4, 1/4-inch tapering heel, satin-stitch floral, kid lining, glazed linen insole, excellent. One pair edged in pink ribbon with long silk ties, label “St. Arbery’s Warehouse... pink ribbon rosette, slender ties, one shoe Margate”, L-8 1/2, tag indicates purchased labeled “Gauche”, (soiled and losses to ties) by Doris Langley Moore. Worn by Miss Ann good. $200 - 400 Johnston-Noad and illustrated in “Woman in Fashion” plate XI, page 51. (significant splits 118 TWO PAIR LADIES’ SLIPPERS, 1800s and 1820s to silk). Cream satin flats with polychrome One pair cream satin mules having tapered needlepoint floral having silk ribbon ties, square toe embroidered with green morning quilted lining, L-9 3/4, (soles replaced, felt glory vines with pink, blue and white blossoms, insoles likely added, silk mended around soles, L-9 3/4, (tearing to silk at toes and sides, side seam separation). Fair. $200 - 400 binding lost), fair. One pair cream kid leather having ruched pink silk ribbon at throat with 123 TWO PAIR WOOL BOOTS with LEATHER CAP silk rosette, pointed toe, shaped 2-tone sole, L-8 TOE, 1830s 3/8, (binding losses, slight wear), very good. One pair brown having triangular elastic side Lot 122 $200 - 300 inserts, shaped toe cap with cream topstitching, striped ribbon pull straps, 8 1/2 x 4 1/2, (elastic 119 LADY’S BROWN LEATHER and BROCADE stretched). One pair taupe gabardine Adelaide SHOES, 1825 - 1835 boots with straight toe cap, tiny heel, DLM tag, Taupe flats with pale blue silk brocade, front 9 x 4 3/4, (some soil). Good-excellent. $200 - 300 lacing with square brown leather toe cap and heel, center seam reinforced with trefoil 124 BLACK SATIN SIDE-LACING ANKLE BOOTS, embroidery, embroidered eyelets. L-9 1/2. 1835 - 1845 (Laces replaced, one original lace retained, very Flats with rounded toe, cotton lining and kid light wear, one tiny hole at back) very good. insole, DLM tag. L-9 3/4. Never worn, pristine. $250 - 350 $300 - 400

120 TWO PAIR LADIES’ SATIN FLATS, 1830s - 1840s 125 FRENCH LEATHER SHOES with EMBROIDERY One cream silk with ribbon ties, insoles paper and SILK INSERTS, 1840s labeled “Droit” and “Gauche”, L-9 1/8, (satin Brown straight flats having cutout vamp sewn to soles from another pair of shoes, some with four graduated bar inserts of blue silk mends). One pair black silk, label “J. G. Atloff terminating with heart shape at toe, decorated Shoe Importer New Bond Street London” with cream tambour embroidery, bound in insoles inked “Droit” and “Gauche”, DLM tag, brown silk with ruffles over triple points. Label L-10. Good-excellent. $250 - 350 “Lapaque Cordonnier Pour Dames a Paris”. L-9 1/4. Excellent. $500 - 700 121 TWO PAIR SIDE-LACING ANKLE BOOTS, 1835 - 1855 126 FRENCH STRIPED SILK GOWN, 1780s, Rose red velvet flats with rounded square toe, RESTYLED c. 1815 bound in cotton, original side lacing over tongue Sage green taffeta with a cream, pink and brown with cotton laces having metal aiglet, 9 3/4 ribbon stripe having empire bodice, rounded x 4 1/2, tag indicates purchased from Robert neckline trimmed with lace, long fitted sleeve Reddaway, (some wear and fading, losses to with puffed shoulder and lace band at cuff, front eyelet bindings, each lace missing one aiglet) closure with two drawstrings, self sash pleated good. White kid flats with rounded square toe, at back, wide A-line skirt with back gathers. silk ties, sawtooth tongue, fabric lining, soles B-32, high W-26, L-54. (Repairs and patches, inked “Mrs J. N. George”, L-9 1/2, (minor stain small holes, splits in sleeve puffs, underarms Lot 125 at one heel) excellent. $300 - 500 stained, scattered spots) fair. $300 - 500

25 127 STRIPED GAUZE EVENING DRESS with 132 WOOL EMBROIDERED MULL DRESS, c. 1824 137 WHITE COTTON MUSLIN DRESSING BLONDE LACE, 1815 White cotton sprigged with olive green wool GOWN, 1830 Maize silk having short, puffed sleeve decorated star embroidery having high waist bodice Long sleeve puffed at the shoulder and gathered with pleated satin and cream lace, hem with long gigot sleeve, ruched at center front into narrow cuff with embroidered button, yoke decorated with satin rouleaux scallops having having wide waistband, back closure with six and shoulder having self piping, front button lace ruffles above a rouleaux band. Lot 429 at embroidered buttons and waist tie, slightly placket, back gathered into yoke and waistband, Christie’s auction, May 27/28, 1970, “This and trained skirt with side openings having a double wide hem band with piping, B-38, L-55. (All but the following dress worn by the present owner’s scalloped hem ruffle with foliate embroidery, two front buttons missing, few small spots and grandmother and her sister, Miss Mary Ann dress includes a custom-made silk slip with an light stains, tiny hole on yoke, small hole at back Knapp and Miss Sarah Ann Knapp, who were unfinished hem, 20th C. DLM tag, purchased gathers) good. $150 - 250 born in 1802 and 1803”, bid by Doris Langley from Doris in 1969. B-36, L 53-56. (Scattered tiny Moore. B-34, W-24, L-53. (Lining replaced 20th holes, some period mends, minor embroidery 138 GAUZE DRESS attributed to THE COUNTESS C, satin ribbon waistband not original, some losses, tiny stain above hem ruffle) good. $1200 - 1500 of LOVELACE, 1830 tearing to lace at hem) excellent. $2500 - 3500 Cream satin bodice figured with a cream and 133 WHITE MUSLIN DRESS with MATCHING red floral repeat having short gauze balloon 128 WHITE COTTON DRESS with BRODERIE FICHU, 1825 sleeve and collar, trimmed with cream lace and ANGLAISE , 1820 High-waist bodice gathered at shoulder and yellow gauze ribbon bows, full skirt over cream High-waist boatneck bodice with drawstring, center front, imbecile sleeve having shaped cuff satin with side pocket, padded hem and linen gigot sleeve, five fanning bands of embroidery and self piping, boatneck inset with a narrow lining. Letter from Doris Langley Moore Nov. inset with ruching, double ruffled eyelet collar, band of tulle, wide waistband, slightly trained 19, 1963 describing a “large batch of objects” waistband with hook & eye closures, deep cuff skirt with two wide tulle-edged ruffles, collared worn by the Countess of Lovelace or a family with tucks and embroidery, skirt decorated at fichu with ruffles. B-36, W-28, L 48-51. (Scattered member, purchased from the Lord King’s hem with three bands of eyelet and scalloped tiny spots, small hole in collar) excellent. $400 - 600 family by way of Mr. William King. This cream eyelet ruffles. DLM tag indicates purchased for sprigged dress is not mentioned by description Helen at Christie’s along with auction tag dated 134 FRENCH FIGURED SILK PELISSE, c. 1825 in the letter- only a “mushroom striped dress”, “28 May, 1970”. B-32, L-38-44. Excellent. $1200 - 1500 Pale aqua figured with an abstract floral repeat she also states “The size, style and date of the having a wide round collar squared at the clothes would fit Byron’s daughter, Ada, born 129 TWO CHILDREN’S COTTON DRESSES, 1820 front, cuff decorated with self bands, slightly 1815, but there is no proof. I can only say they - 1830 gathered at center front waist and center are indisputably from that family”, B-30, W-24, Both long sleeve: One cream with printed wavy back, attached self belt, hook & eye closures, L-50. (Bodice heavily mended under arms, stripe in pink and brown alternating with slightly padded hem, cotton and silk lining. missing one shoulder bow, few pinholes and tiny floral devices, ruched bodice with square Purchased through Doris Langley Moore, Lot stress marks to gauze, underskirt has minor neckline, gathered sleeve and wide cuff, (some 390, Christie’s auction, Oct. 21, 1970. B-30, W-26, edge wear and small black marks, snap and spots and watermarks, lacking ties, small seam L-55. (Underarms faded to white, small hole and hook & eye closures added) good. $1200 - 1500 separation at back); one white muslin having a 4-inch tear under left arm, brown spots and full skirt inset with two wide bands of tulle fade marks, stain at waist mostly covered by 139 FLORAL PRINTED COTTON DRESS with and lace trim at hem. Both B-22, L-26. Good- belt) fair. $400 - 600 IMBECILE SLEEVES, 1830 excellent. $250 - 350 Beige printed with delicate floral branches in 135 GREY RIBBED SILK DRESS with MOIRE pink, red, green and black, pleated V-neck with 130 NET DRESS with EMBROIDERY and RIBBON OVERCHECK, 1828 crossed panels set in a wide waistband, sleeve APPLIQUE, 1820 Front-closing bodice with hooks & eyes, cuffed having gauged gathers and cuff with self piping, Cream tulle having a high waist, long-sleeve gigot sleeve, full skirt attached at back, apron skirt with gauged gathers, B-28, W-21, L-50. bodice embroidered with repeating posies, front with ties, deep, slightly gathered hem (Some stains, 1/4-inch tear at back closure, back decorated with pale lilac satin rouleaux scrolls band with ruched appliqués of self fabric with seam mostly unstitched) good. $500 - 700 and scallops, neck binding, and cuff appliquéd piping, bodice has a muslin lining. B-38, W-26, with diamond-tipped spears, padded hem. L-51. Note attached to dress “Dress worn by my 140 PRINTED COTTON DRESS with CAPELET, 1830 B-36, W-26, L-50. (Lacking underdress, two tiny grandmother Mrs. R. V. Wynn Williams about Cream with blue, red and purple flower clusters, spots on waistband, small hole in one sleeve and 1824. Unmarried name Marianne Aked.” Lot high waist bodice having imbecile sleeve with scattered small holes in hem area) very good. 132 from Christie’s auction March 24, 1969. (Two tucks, boatneck and wide waistband; matching $800 - 1200 very faint stains on skirt, small brown spots on capelet with collar, bodice lined with cotton lining, very small light stain on bodice front) having hook & eye closures. B-30, W-24, L-48. 131 2-PIECE SILK TAFFETA DRESS, c. 1823 excellent. $800 - 1200 Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, Violet faille, the empire bodice having long “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Silk ribbon sleeve puffed at the shoulder and decorated at 136 FRENCH GAUZE GOWN with TIPPET, 1828 waistband and fancy cotton underskirt of a later cuff with self spears and buttons, triple pleats Cinnabar silk gauze having short, puffed satin date, small mends to sleeves, scattered spots form a front “V”, gathered center back, waist sleeve with scalloped gauze ruffles trimmed and stains to back of sleeve and near hem) very with front and back drawstrings, cotton lining; in satin rouleaux, satin waistband, full skirt good. $1200 - 1500 wide A-line skirt falling from cotton under- decorated with bands of rouleaux and satin- bodice with back tie, padded hem with pinked, trimmed gauze bows, padded hem. B-38, W-32, 141 ENGLISH PRINTED COTTON DAY DRESS, c. 1835 scalloped and pierced ruffle. B-34, L-53. (Small, L-54. Macramé silk tippet with fancy tassels, Black twill scattered with flowers in shades of faint underarm stains, faint fade marks, 1/2 inch DLM tag. Gown attributed on FIDM inventory rust, green and blue, having very large imbecile hole repaired on skirt back, some small splits to Madamé Hyde de Neuville, wife of the sleeves with shoulder tucks and box-pleated along hem edge) good. $800 - 1200 French minister, no provenance proof in Larson self ruffle at cuff, boatneck bodice with ruching archive. (Gauze hemband has tear, mend and beneath five fanning self bands, wide waistband edgewear, few small bleached spots, tiny holes, with self belt, full gathered skirt with wide stress to gauze in shoulder area) very good. cotton hem facing, B-36, W-28, L-47. DLM tag $3000 - 4000 states dress was Lot 156 at Christie’s 11/24/69 sale. Doris called this dress “the bargain of the day” at $70 in correspondence with Helen. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Tiny hole at back waist) excellent. $1500 - 1800

26 Lot 127 Lot 131 Lot 136

Lot 138 Lot 140 Lot 141

27 146 LADY JANE ERSKINE’S SILK WEDDING GOWN and PELLERINE, c. 1837 Cream satin jacquard with floral clusters having short sleeve boatneck bodice with pleats, ruffles and self piping, trimmed with cream lace and dotted gauze ribbon, full pleated skirt with bow and streamers from center waist point, detachable long sleeves; matching pellerine having lace collar and ruffled hem. Purchased from Doris Langley Moore. Letter from Doris Lot 142 to Helen, Oct. 25, 1863, “I feel certain that if you don’t want the things of Lady Jane Erskine, Mrs. Holt will readily relieve you of them, because they are really first rate. Lady Jane, born 1818, 142 PRINTED COTTON DRESS and was the daughter of the 11th Earl of Buchan. She UNDERDRESS, c. 1835 144 SATIN GOWN with DETACHABLE SLEEVES, 1839 married in 1837 and the same year, according White with woven stripe printed in brown with Pink champagne silk having boned bodice with to the vendor, was painted for King Ludwig I trailing bellflowers, high waist bodice with wide V-neck trimmed in blonde lace, the long in Bavaria. She is certainly in that gallery of his ruched front panels creating V-neck flanked by sleeve is detachable at the shirred and ruffled favorite beauties in the Nymphenburg Palace, self ruffles, ruched and padded at the shoulder, collar, shirred above the cuff, front point with and I only wish that, when I was there, I had long fitted sleeve with large puff above the double row of piping, full, slightly trained skirt known I was going to acquire her wedding elbow, wide waistband, full gathered skirt. with gauged gathers, back hook & eye closure dress and may trousseau clothes...” Continues to Original underdress having tucks and self with self rosette at waist, stiffened hem with describe the wedding gown “The dress has long piping. B-34, W-25, L 49-52. Janet Arnold 1969 braided binding. B-32, W-26, L 54-57. (Scattered sleeves....detachable when the gown was worn cataloguing notebook states “Belonged to the small spots, stains at hem and wear to binding, for the first ball”. B-32, W-22, L-48. (Some tears Honorable Honoria Harrington”, no further lace torn at one shoulder) good. $500 - 700 to lace, few tiny spots to skirt, small notch in provenance found. (Several small mends and edge of streamer) excellent. $3000 - 4000 tear at waistband and cuffs, tears and repairs to 145 FRENCH MOIRE SILK DRESS, 1839 back neckline, small brown spots and mends in Pink faille having bodice with pleats draped en 147 LADY JANE ERSKINE’S FIGURED SATIN hem area, few tiny brown spots to underdress, garde, wide boatneck with lace trim and short EVENING GOWN, 1840 hole patched on back) good. $1500 - 2000 pleated sleeve, full pleated skirt set into a gentle Blue-grey satin with a pattern of floral sprays waist point with self piping, inverted rouleaux and vines having short sleeve with furbelows 143 SATIN WEDDING DRESS with SLIPPERS and scallops at hem, bodice lined in silk, skirt has a and lace trim, wide boatneck with blonde lace LETTER, 1830s glazed cotton lining. DLM tag. B-34, W-24, L-51. bertha and deep waist point with three rows of Ivory satin having short sleeve bodice with (Back hooks & eyes likely added, minor spots piping, self rose at back closure, semi-boned wide V-neck edged in tatting, tucked into a and soil mainly at hem, some tearing to lace) bodice lined in cotton, full skirt with gauged gentle point with self piping, gathered skirt very good. $600 - 800 gathers and two deep gauze flounces set in with padded hem. Includes a letter signed furbelows, lined in stiffened gauze. B-34, W-22, “HMC” from Boston, 1829 accepting a proposal L-53. Purchased from Doris Langley Moore in from a Mr. George Mansfield of Pepperell, 1963, includes copies of correspondence related Massachusetts. B-34, W-26, L-50. (Some soil and to the purchase and Lady Jane’s historic details. tiny spots). Together with a pair of satin straight (Bertha detached and torn, 18 inches of lower and flat wedding slippers with partial label flounce torn away from satin band at hem, faint “...T.W.Williams...”, includes note that they were brown stain on bodice, very faint underarm worn by Rebecca Montgomery in 1849, possibly stains and small spot on bodice, few brown a relative, L-9. (Several light brown spots). Dress spots on the back, flounces have few small spots excellent, slippers good. $600 - 800 and holes) good. $1000 - 1500

28 Lot 143 Lot 144 Lot 145

Lot 146 & Detail Lot 147

29 148 STRIPED SHOT-SILK DRESS, 1840 Shot black and olive silk striped in sets of triple pink and narrow white stripes, having decorative center panel embroidered with fancy braid and self fabric bows centered by embroidered buttons, braided trim and bows to short sleeves and top of boned bodice with fan pleats, full slightly trained skirt with gauged gathers, side and tiny waist pockets, lined in polished cotton. B-34, W-24, L 53-56. (Stiffened and stained under arms and to bodice lining, stain on skirt back, lining has mended tears at hem, seam separation at waist) good. $400 - 600

149 ENGLISH CLARET SILK DAY DRESS, 1845 Long sleeve bodice trimmed with pleats and silk braid, having front point and cream lace collar, full skirt with gauged gathers, the center panel decorated with braid and ribbed oval domes flanked by pinked self trim, cotton lining. B-34, W-28, L-60. (Collar and some trim partially detached, small splits and minor mend under arm, domes stained and abraded, seam separation, few small holes, mend and small black stains on skirt) good. $400 - 600

Lot 148 Lot 149 150 TRAINED SILK BALLGOWN, attributed to JULIA GARDINER, c. 1852 Tan 2-piece having back-lacing bodice with deep front and back points, and short puffed sleeve, decorated with blue ribbon, lace and metallic gold thread, bodice and skirt center panel embroidered in blue and cream silk floral, the skirt having a series of scalloped ruffles, set in yellow silk appliquéd with a polychrome floral on pink set within blue braided wreaths with bows, tan scalloped hem ruffle. Exhibited at Disneyland in the 1965 Monsanto show “Fabrics and Fashions through the Ages”, a press release stated, “The gown was worn by First Lady Julia Gardiner Tyler”, (second wife of President Tyler) no further provenance found. B-34, W-22, L 44- 52. (Holes in the hem binding, some light stains, 3-inch mend on skirt front trim, hem ruffle has some repairs, some tears to bodice trim, blue ribbon fragile and some splits, snaps added, lace torn at the neckline) good. $800 - 1200

151 FLORAL BROCADE SILK 3-PIECE ENSEMBLE, 1860 Black silk with polychrome floral brocade, back-lacing off-the-shoulder bodice with deep point; full skirt with box pleats; boned basque having narrow pagoda sleeve with white silk lining edged with furbelows and bottle-green ribbon. B-32, W-20, jacket L-23, skirt W-22, L-43. Tag indicated bought from Massachusetts dealer Boughner. Janet Arnold cataloging notebook notes “Worn at the Veiled Prophets Ball in St. Louis”. (Alterations in progress, bodice lacking stays, short sleeves removed, trim detached from basque, shoulder seam separated, splits to waistband) fabric-excellent, dress good. $300 - 500

Lot 150 Lot 151

30 152 TWO PAIR LADIES’ LACING SHOES, 1840s 162 THREE CREAM LACE BONNET VEILS, 1800 - 1830s Straight flat lace-ups with square black leather One silk having floral border to three sides, toe and quarter having padded floral brocade the bottom with repeating floral spray, 48 x 28, in green and fuchsia, black ribbon laces, L-9 (few small holes and tiny spots). One mixed 1/2, (leather faded, small scuffs, minor wear to needlerun and appliqué lace in a very sparse brocade) very good. Glazed leather straights floral motif, 11 x 42, (some tears and holes, with square toe and slight heel (3/16 inch), mainly at the borders). One decorated with ribbon laces, black silk binding, fabric lining appliqué lace floral having fancy border design, and insole with kid leather to the quarter, L-10, 40 x 26, (few light stains to scalloped edge). excellent. $300 - 500 Good-excellent. $250 - 350

153 KID SHOES with BARETTE VAMP, 1840s - 1850s 163 TWO LACE WEDDING VEILS, 1810 - 1820s Black kid straight flats with brown silk binding, Both ivory net: One silk square with delicate cutout vamp with three bars and four small floral work to the ground and borders with grosgrain bows with embroidered centers, kid floral sprays at the corners, 70 x 78, (holes and sole and lining with inked initials “E.P.”, L-9. brown spots) fair. One long rectangle having a Tag indicates purchased from Doris Langley meandering floral in cutwork and appliqué lace, Moore. (Tiny paint mark on one quarter), Lot 157 DLM tag, 26 1/2 x 113, (minor spots) excellent. excellent unworn condition. $600 - 800 $250 - 350

154 THREE PAIR WOMEN’S SLIPPERS, 1840s - 1850s 164 EMBROIDERED NET VEIL, 1810 - 1820 All straight flats: One pair brown velvet with White cotton rectangle having a sprigged field rounded toe having polychrome floral chenille and a delicate arching floral border with slightly embroidery studded with tiny steel beads, pink scalloped hem. DLM tag notes 1880s, FIDM satin and red kid lining, L-9 5/8, with custom research puts it at 1810-1820. 68 x 84. (Scattered mounts, “Ledermann” tag on sole, acquired 158 EIGHT PAIR CHILDREN’S SHOES, 1840s - 1910 small holes, small repair, minor spot). Together from the collector (slight wear to toe edge, losses One pair black leather side-buttoning infant with a white tulle veil, with a hem bordered to binding, 1/4 inch hole to one side, tearing boots; one pair black leather and brown wool in silk floss band c. 1890s, 106 x 164. (Hole and around top of heel). One pair brown velvet straight flats; one pair brown leather shoes with some light stains). Both good. $200 - 300 booties with square toe and embossed metal beaded and cutout toe, ribbon tie and Louis buckle, L-9 1/4 (some wear, both torn in buckle heel; one pair brown square-toed boots with area, lacking insoles). One pair tapestry weave stacked heel; one pair heavy leather work boots polychrome stylized floral on grey ground with scalloped opening; one pair grey leather having ruched red silk ribbon decorating the with black patent spectators with bow vamp front edge, L-9 1/2, includes custom mounts and cutout ankle with ties, one pair black twill (small area of tapestry loss at front point, worn straights with kid lining, string tie and silk around back edge). Good. $300 - 500 ribbon laces, L 4-8 1/2. Good-excellent. Together with a pair of black wool twill lace-up shoes, 155 EMBROIDERED BOOTS with ELASTIC INSET, 1850s last quarter 19th C, possibly a man’s, having Brown glazed leather having rounded square braided ribbon laces, sole marked “Comfort toe, embroidered with a pattern of cream loops, Shoe”, L-10. $250 - 350 side gores inset with ruched brown elastic fabric, cotton lining and insole, L-10 1/2 with 1 159 TWO CREAM NEEDLERUN LACE BONNET 1/2 inch heel. (Leather losses to one heel, one VEILS, 1830s - 1840s heel torn, scattered tiny holes, 1/2-inch tear to Both embroidered on silk machine net: One leather) good. Together with a pair of bronze kid having stylized scrolling foliage with trefoils ankle boots having laces at front and both sides, and quatrafoils, 21 x 69; one having repeating square toe and Louis heel, L-9 1/2 with 1 1/2- posies with a border of small branches above inch heel. (Lacking laces, elastic inserts removed scalloped border with repeating clusters of from sides, split along side seams on one boot) flower heads, 45 x 41. Excellent. $200 - 300 fair. $400 - 600 160 THREE CREAM LACE BONNET VEILS, 1830 - 1855 156 SHOES and STOCKINGS attributed to MRS. All fine net: One having needlerun flowers and ULYSSES S. GRANT, 1860s leaves edged in a scalloped floral motif with A pair of black leather shoes with cutout lavender ribbon, DLM tag, 32 x 33, (tiny period vamp, black grosgrain bow at throat and white mend and minor spot). One with large-scale topstitching, sole imprinted “L. Huard, Paris”, floral clusters and scalloped border, 32 x 45 Larson collection tag sewn to lining inked “Mrs. (period mend and hole). One white point de gaz U.S. Grant”, L-10, (cracks and nicks to leather). lace, the upper portion of point d’espirt dots, the A pair of purple silk stockings having similar lower portion having flowers in a lattice ground, tag sewn in top, L-30. Together with a pair 24 x 57, DLM tag suggests possibly a flounce, of black net mitts, tagged “Nellie Grant”, her (tiny spot, pull and zig-zag split). Very good- daughter, L-9. No further provenance found. excellent. $200 - 400 Good-excellent. $200 - 300 161 THREE EMBROIDERED NET STOLES, 1800 - 1830 157 EMBROIDERED SATIN SHOES with BOW, One cream cotton having allover scrolling 1865 - 1870 tambour floral, 16 x 94. One ivory silk with Black silk having pale gold floral embroidery to scalloped floral border and branching floral end the toe and ruched self bow detail at the vamp borders, 21 x 94, (scattered holes). One white edged in gold satin, L-9 3/4 with 1 3/4-inch cotton net with scalloped floral border, the ends heel. DLM tag indicates purchased from Doris having three stylized floral clusters, 18 x 94, Langley Moore. (Heels are worn at back) good. (two small holes, small faint spot). Very good- $200 - 400 excellent. $300 - 500

Lot 164

31 165 LACE-TRIMMED FICHU, 1820 174 TWO SILK LACE WRAPS and a COTTON White cotton mull triangle having a thin band TIPPET, 1820s - 1840s of embroidered net lace along the top edge, One handmade ivory lace shawl shaped and the other sides having a band of embroidered narrowing at the ends, having floral motifs with lace-on-net with large scrolling floral and an needlerun outlines, 18 x 72 (1/2-inch hole). One embroidered ruffle with floral sprigs, 52 x 21. cream silk blonde lace stole rounded at the ends (Few minor holes, tiny rust marks from old with repeating floral designs, scalloped edges pins) excellent. $100 - 200 and picots, 9 x 79, (tears along border). One white machine net tippet having an appliqué 166 FOUR CREAM EMBROIDERED NET BONNET lace floral border, 14 x 71, (two minor holes). VEILS, 1810 - 1830 Fair-very good. $200 - 300 One with stylized floral border and a band of scrolling floral repeats with pink ribbon 175 THREE RIBBED SILK BONNETS, 1830 - 1840s drawstring, 30 x 39 (few brown spots and large All having cane ribs and ruffled bavolet: One stains at top).Two having sprigged ground and olive green having twenty ribs, 8 x 10 x 9, (gauze floral border in needlerun lace, 49 x 50 and 20 x lining partly un-stitched, some canes un-stitched 44 1/2. One dotted net with delicate appliqué in the interior). One blue faille having five ribs lace border and gathered top edge, 13 1/2 x 52. interspersed with ruffles, purple moire silk ties, (Few small spots) good-excellent. $250 - 350 7 x 10 x 7 1/2, (some wear to crown and brim edge). One pink faille having five ribs and three 167 BLACK BLONDE LACE STOLE and SHAWL, 1830s ruched bands, 8 x 10 x 6, (soiled, brim edge One narrow triangular shawl with scalloped torn). Fair-excellent. $200 - 300 edge, DLM tag, 17 x 67, (Several tears to net, few small holes, some edge tears). Long rectangular 176 QUILTED SILK WINTER BONNET, 1840s silk stole having serrated edge and floral motifs, Black ribbed and padded bonnet having quilted 40 x 104. Fair-excellent. $150 - 250 back, rope-edged border and padded bavolet, lined in tan polished cotton, 9 1/2 x 10. (Few 168 TWO EMBROIDERED NET VEILS, 1828 - 1830s tiny light spots, small white surface stain to One cream square silk machine net embroidered lining) excellent. $100 - 200 in cotton floss, with an allover palmate motif within a double floral border, scalloped at the 177 FANCY-WEAVE STRAW BONNET with edges, 50 x 57, (several dark spots, scattered WHEAT DECORATION, 1840s minor holes). One ivory silk machine net with Glazed straw figured in a diamond repeat, Lot 171 thick linen needlerun embroidered floral with decorated with royal blue and white ribbon, scalloped floral border, 54 x 72, (scattered small and a corsage of wheat with cornflower, gauze mends, few small faint stains). Good. $250 - 350 lining, includes custom mount. Used in Doris 169 HANDMADE BLONDE LACE BONNET VEIL, c. 1838 Lanley Moore’s BBC television series, “Men, Cream silk having meandering stripes of Women and Clothes”, 1957 . 8 x 9 1/2 x 9 1/2. flowers terminating in large clusters within a (Some tearing to lining) excellent. $300 - 400 floral border, 45 x 55. (Tiny red marks at one edge, few tiny holes) excellent. $200 - 300 178 THREE BONNETS, 1848 - 1860s One green silk having nineteen ribs, ruffled brim 170 NEEDLERUN LACE FICHU and MANTLE, c. 1835 and tucked bavolet with fringed lace tassels, Cream net fichu embroidered with C-scrolls under-brim decorated with cloth flowers, 9 x 7 and floral garlands, having ruffled border. 15 x x 9, (splits and fading to silk, losses to tassels). 77. (Small tear at ruffle seam, one brown spot One straw with fancy-weave brim decorated in and scattered light spots). Cream silk demi- brown velvet ribbon, white embroidered chiffon lune mantle with side flounce and lappets in and crepe paper flowers, figured silk bavolet, 8 a pattern of floral scrolls and clusters. 94 x 30. x 11 x 7, (straw largely un-stitched, tears to silk (Scattered small holes and spots, 2-inch tear at and lining). One brown fancy-weave straw with edge). Good-very good. $150 - 250 red and black ribbon, under-brim decorated with cloth flowers, 9 x 10 x 6, includes custom 171 BRUSSELS LACE WEDDING VEIL, 1830s mount, (some breaks to straw, losses to flowers, Cream appliqué lace on large machine net lining disintegrated, splits to brim binding and square with large stylized flowers on the field ties). Poor-fair. $100 - 200 with a robust floral border and floral corners, DLM tag, 74 x 77. (Small spots and light stains) 179 THREE FANCY INDOOR BONNETS, 1840s - 1880s very good. $400 - 600 One tulle with cream and black ribbon, (20th C Lot 177 flowers added). One gauze with lappets having 172 FIVE PIECES BLACK BLONDE LACE, 1820s - 1830s green silk ribbon threaded through cluny lace Two matching skirt flounces, floral with appliqués with silk bow medallion, DLM tag, scalloped edge, 23 x156 and 23 x 134, (numerous (medallion is browned). One gauze having holes); a second matching pair of flounces with ruffles of embroidered lace and blue ribbon trim floral and border of stylized pagoda shapes, 18 and ties, DLM tag. Good-excellent. $100 - 200 x 108 and 18 x 146; matching bodice trim, 6 x 82 1/2, (some holes) fair-very good. $300 - 400 180 THREE APPLIQUE LACE INDOOR BONNETS, 1830s - 1850s 173 NEEDLERUN LACE OVERSKIRT and One white cotton having cutwork floral with net MATCHING SLEEVES, 1820s fillings, lace ruffle and decorated ties (few holes Cream net with clusters of flowers, skirt having and tiny mends). Two cream net with allover floral border and hem ruffle, matching gigot floral, double ruffle and lappets (scattered sleeves. Skirt 34 x 79, (seamed, spots, small holes brown spots). Very good-excellent. $100 - 200 and mends) good, sleeves L-26, (few spots) very good. $200 - 300 Lot 169 Detail

32 181 FIVE NET INDOOR BONNETS, c. 1850 & 1860s 185 THREE NATURAL STRAW HATS, 1860s One black with black silk ribbon and white tulle One flat pancake decorated with black velvet ruffles, (some trim detached). One heavy net tabs and pink cloth rose, under-brim having Lot 183 with lace and pink ribbons. One cream with cloth flowers and velvet strap, D-10. One sheer embroidered ribbon, embroidered net wide-brim with very shallow crown, woven ruffle and wired brim. One black with cream with central diamond pattern, decorated with lace overlay, black-and-cream ruffles and sheer gauze, velvet ribbon and polychrome flowers, purple ribbon with white floral embroidery, DLM tag, worn by Lady Huntington in “The (some breaks to net). One cream gauze with Woman in Fashion”, D-12 1/2, (some splits to embroidered net ruffles trimmed with yellow chiffon, one ribbon streamer torn). One having and deep pink ribbon. Good-excellent. $200 - 300 wide, turned-down brim with short crown and black and white plaid silk ribbon, (straw bands 182 TAN STRAW LADY’S BONNET and GIRL’S partially unstitched, some stains to ribbon). HAT, 1850 - 1855 Good. $200 - 300 Bonnet with satin striped cream silk trim and bavolet, the bavolet having a fine band of 186 FIVE SMALL STRAW HATS, 1860s braided straw, brim edged in straw embroidery Two unfinished including one blank painted on a stiff net foundation, underside of brim white with London label. One oval with small decorated with pleated cream lace and cloth turned-up brim, painted white with silk and roses, ivory satin ties, label “Witherell, Great lace band and cloth flower, London label. Two Neck, NY”, 10 x 11 x 6, (much of the straw having slightly turned-up brim and flat crown: bands are unstitched, losses to trim and flowers) One with brown ribbon; one having black fair. Wide-brim hat having velvet band and bow feathers and cloth flowers. All approximately 8 with streamers and pink and green flowers, 1/2 inches. (Trim losses, some breaks to straw) underbrim covered in pleated green silk faille, fair-very good. $100 - 200 silk lining, depicted in Doris Langley Moore’s, “The Child in Fashion”, plate XXI, DLM tag, 10 187 THREE HEADDRESSES, 1860s 1/2 x 12 x 2 3/4, (some discoloration to silk). One black lace having black velvet and figured Together with a girl’s white cotton hat c. 1900 gold taffeta bows. One wired black mesh having ruched and corded wide brim with with lace, chenille and pearls. One cream eyelet border, puffed crown with lace insert, self embroidered net with lace trim, blue velvet ties, 14 x 3, (minor browning, hat is decorated and silk ribbon. All approximately 7 x 7. (Few with a half band of velvet ribbons and plastic broken brides) excellent. $100 - 200 daisies of a later date). Good-very good. $200 - 300 188 LOT of FIVE LACE BONNETS and CAPS, 183 TWO BONNETS with HORSEHAIR, 1860, 1863 1860s -1890s One tan glazed straw decorated with white Two wired bonnets overlaid with white netting horsehair, having ruffled bavolet, straw bows and decorated with cream lace: One having and delicate red-stemmed blue flowers, black velvet band and bows (pinned to hat); one underside of brim trimmed in black and cream having midnight blue band with purple edging lace with pink cloth flowers, silk lining and ties, and velvet with lilac taffeta bows. One black lace includes custom mount. 9 x 10 x 5 1/2. (Trim snood decorated with cream lace, purple velvet losses, large tears to ties, wear to edge binding) and taffeta ribbons (ties torn). Two wired cream good. One ecru horsehair with unlined tall brim lace indoor caps: One decorated with green silk having fancy weave straw border trimmed with and velvet ribbons; one having looped cerise chiffon ruffles and polychrome cloth flowers, ribbon. Good-excellent. $100 - 200 under-brim having a band of small pink roses, pink satin ties. Worn in The Woman in Fashion, 189 EMBROIDERED MUSLIN HANDKERCHIEF plate XXII and displayed on the Mary Lincoln with CORONET, c. 1845 mannequin in the 1965 Monsanto Disneyland Decorated with elaborate drawn threadwork, exhibition “Fashion and Fabrics Through the embroidery, and a lace border, having coronet Ages”. 11 x 12 x 8. (Re-trimmed mid 20th C) over floral initials “HB”. DLM tag with note very good. $250 - 350 “Royalty or nobility, Not English coronet”. 22 x 23. (Light stains to Field, few minor holes) very 184 FANCY STRAW BONNET with SILK RIBBON good. $150-250 and ORIGINAL VEIL, c. 1860 Lot 185 Brown fancy-weave straw, black velvet and 190 THREE LACE COLLARS, 1840s - 1870s metallic cord with high brim decorated with One black ruffled bertha trimmed with pleated cloth flowers beneath a dotted net veil having white silk and white lace with silk bow detail, embroidered hem, pink embroidered black DLM tag, 9 x 21. One white with lavender silk taffeta ribbon, trim and ties, woven bavolet. 9 and black velvet trim, DLM tag, 7 x 23. One x 15, includes custom mount. (Buckram lining cream bertha with needlerun flowers in field, torn and repaired) very good. $250 - 350 edged with handmade lace, having a blue satin ribbon band, 29 x 31. Together with an early 20th C Irish crochet high-neck bodice insert, 17 x 14. Excellent. $80 - 120

191 NINE PAIR LADIES’ BLACK MITTS, 1840s Comprised of one pair silk net decorated with polychrome silk floss, metallic threads and tiny pearl beads with custom mounts (holes); one pair jersey with laces; one pair embroidered net; six pair various knit and crochet lace including one cotton, L 5-11. Polychrome pair-fair, otherwise good-excellent. $200 - 300

33 Lot 197 Detail

Lot 192 Lot 193

192 UNUSUAL VELVET PURSE with METALLIC 197 TWO PURSES, ONE FISHSCALE WORK, ONE 201 THREE CHILDREN’S WHITE DRESSES, MID 19th C BASE and CAMEOS, c. 1800 SHELL EMBROIDERY, 1830s One 2-piece, the overblouse with vest and skirt Tiny burgundy velvet drawstring pouch having Both satin drawstring pouches: One black having a waffle-weave decorated with eyelet silk and metal acorn finials, embroidered with having a polychrome embroidered flower basket and embroidery inserts surrounded by soutache metallic gold thread, set in a filigree gold-tone to both sides with ribbon and fishscale flowers decoration, B-24, L-24, (few very faint stains); metal base mounted with four cameos in the and beetle wing paillettes, DLM tag, 6 x 8, (satin one having inserts of rickrack lace, B-26, L-24, Greek style, acorn tassel, white silk lining, L-3 has fade marks). One green having a white floral (several tiny spots on upper skirt, numerous 1/2. (Some wear to gathers, gold tarnished, worked in shells, silk floss and tiny gold beads missing and broken brides); one having tucks tears to lining) good. $300 - 500 to one side. the reverse with red silk monogram, and bands of whitework embroidery with lace looped white bead fringe, 8 x 8, (few loops need trim, B-18, L-21, (tiny ink mark on skirt back, 193 TWO COLLAPSIBLE RETICULES, 1800 - 1820 tacking). Good-excellent. $300 - 400 tiny hole). Good-excellent. $150 - 200 One taupe knitted bag with polychrome beadwork in the shape of a flower basket, 198 THREE WHITE COTTON CHEMISES, 1830s - 1870s drawstring top, 6 x 14, (large split at top, holes, One having short sleeve and boatneck trimmed seam separation) fair. One blue and gold cotton with ruffle and narrow lace band, narrow yoke floss and silk mesh having ruffled drawstring and lace edged opening with single button, top, drawstring with pierced and gilt metal B-36, L-43. One having off-the-shoulder neckline finials and bottom drop, DLM tag, 4 1/2 x 14, with cap sleeve and fine whitework embroidery, excellent. $300 - 500 front opening with eyelets for laces above LPC monogram, B-44, L-38. One having cap sleeve, 194 FOUR SMALL PURSES, 1800 - 1850s yoke, button placket and hem with eyelet and One small knitted bag in gold, black and blue embroidery, ruched details, slightly trained, with drawstring top and tassel, 3 x 8. One tiny having tucks above scalloped hem band, B-34, beaded bag with gilt frame having plunger L-45-47, (small pink stain). Together with a clasp decorated with a floral band and a six- trained white cotton petticoat c. 1880 with pointed star bottom, DLM tag, 2 1/2 x 3 1/2. hem tucks and scalloped ruffle with eyelet and One crocheted miser’s purse in green and gold embroidery, W-26, L-40-55. Very good-excellent. cotton floss with steel beads, purchased at $200 - 300 Christie’s auction July 15, 1968, lot 37, 2 x 9. One beaded envelope depicting a horse and jockey 199 CORDED COTTON PETTICOAT, 1850 to one side, the other side having a waterfall Unbleached fabric having gauged gathers set in and word “Souvenir”, the flap signed and dated the waistband, a single wide tuck above fifteen 1838, silk lining, 4 x 7 (minor losses). Very good- self-corded bands, the hem edged in a narrow excellent. $300 - 400 sawtooth band of crochet. W-32, L-35. (Spot on waistband, few scattered tiny spots) excellent. 195 TWO FLORAL EMBROIDERED SILK PURSES, 1820s $200 - 300 One cream satin square having silk and chenille embroidery with aerophane flowers and silk 200 RARE TRAINED NURSING/MATERNITY fringe, 8 x 7 1/2, (lining and rings replaced, UNDERDRESS, 1840s drawstring and tassels likely replaced. One White cotton having short sleeve and neckline grey-green pouch with chenille and fish scale edged in eyelet with lace ruffle, triangular front decoration to one side, pink silk lining and panel with button & loop closures to either side, drawstring, DLM tag, 6 1/2 x 8, Excellent. $200 - 300 back closure with ties and two buttons, skirt decorated with two wide and five narrow tucks 196 TWO BLACK VELVET BEADED BAGS, 1820 - 1830 above a scalloped eyelet hemband. Both drawstring pouches beaded on both sides: B-38, W-30, L 53-60. DLM tag. (Numerous One having steel beads with a lattice mid-band Lot 200 pinholes to bodice front, period mends, few backed in red satin ribbon between two floral light stains and tiny brown spots on skirt) bands, fancy beaded side tassels, DLM tag, 5 very good. $600 - 800 x 6. One decorated with white and grey beads having a lobed collar and draw cords with chenille tassels, 4 x 7. (Minor losses) excellent. $200 - 300

34 Lot 203 Lot 202 Lot 212

202 GIRL’S PRINTED COTTON DRESS, c. 1845 209 BEADED TAFFETA EVENING CAPE, 1860 White with gold and orange abstract printed Cream silk having over-cape decorated with stripes, long sleeve boatneck bodice having bands of black lace fringed with faceted black attached pelerine with lace trim, gathered skirt beads, lace-trimmed band collar, the hems set into waistband with front point, single trimmed with fancy cream silk fringe with pocket. Worn in the first annual Disneyland black beads and cream fly fringe, unlined. L-39. Easter Fashion Parade, 1956, copy of photo (Minor losses, few tiny spots) excellent. $300 - 400 included. Most of the costumes were loaned from Helen’s collection. B-26, W-22, L-41. (Holes 210 TWO CREAM SILK GAUZE BURNOOSES, 1860s and browning to lace, some discoloration along 206 CREAM LACE BURNOOSE, 1840s One large demi-lune having hood with five silk sides of skirt and sleeves, few tiny spots) very Finely embroidered on cream net with faux tassels and a pair of tassels at the front hem, good. $250 - 350 hood collar having two fancy silk tassels, three L-46. (Large tears at neck closure, few small ruffles applied above the ruffled hem, wide holes). One long rectangle fringed all around in 203 YOUNG GIRL’S PRINTED COTTON DRESS, c. 1845 front lappets ruffled at the bottom. CBL-32. (Few knotted camel silk, cinched at the center back, White with tiny pink floral repeat having ruched small spots) excellent. $400 - 600 L-46, (some dye transfer from fringe, tiny spot). bodice set in a boatneck band with lace edging Fair-good. $200 - 300 and wide waistband with piping, short ruffled 207 TWO SHOT SILK CARRIAGE CLOAKS with sleeve with puff, white cotton undersleeve RUFFLES, 1840s - 1850s 211 EMBROIDERED CAPE with CORAL BEADS embroidered at the hem, gathered full skirt, One blue with undulating rows of pinked and PEARLS, c. 1865 cotton bodice lining having back buttons. B-26, ruffles, DLM tag, L- 31-33. One green and Cream silk having over-cape, the borders W-22, L-40. (Few small holes in skirt, faint spot fuchsia having shaped collar and front opening decorated with silk and metallic gold foliate and small mend) very good. $150 - 250 with scalloped border, the curved back having embroidery with pearls and coral beads, beaded three bands of scalloped ruffles joined to the fringe with silk tassels, quilted silk lining, L-39. 204 TWO WHITE COTTON BLOUSES, 1860s front panel with embroidered buttons, polished Tag indicates purchased in Paris 1967. (Stains on One lawn with ruching, embroidered floral cotton lining with brocade facings and a brocade back, scattered small spots, lining torn in neck insertions with cutwork, trimmed with narrow bar joining front and back, hook & eye closures, area, some bead losses) good. $500 - 700 lace ruffles, B-36, L-13 1/2. One having bands L 33-35 (tiny faint spots). Excellent. $300 - 500 of embroidered net alternating with fine tatting, 212 SILK BROCADE DRESS, c. 1845 B-36, L-14, (several holes under one arm). Both 208 HOODED TAFFETA CAPE with FIGURED Red/plum silk brocaded with a colorful floral having DLM tags. Very good-excellent. $150 - 250 RIBBON, 1850s having wide boatneck, short sleeve, the neckline Mushroom silk lined in green having gathered and deep front point edged with a double row 205 EMBROIDERED WHITE COTTON CAPE, 1840s hood with large silk and chenille tassels and of piping, full skirt with gauged gathers, side Having allover tambour-embroidered scrolling green binding, cape front and hem decorated pocket, and back bow detail, tarlatan hem vines and floral border, ruffled hem with with wide bands of ribbon figured with lozenge binding, muslin bodice lining, B-32, W-22, L-55 graduated layers of Van Dyke points, L-42. shapes, self buttons, L-44. (Reddish stain to 1/2. (Seam separation under one arm and small (Hidden holes and mend under back of collar, ribbon and tiny spots to front, small seam section of waist) excellent. $600 - 800 seam separation, very minor age toning) good. separation to ribbon binding inside hood, one $250 - 350 broken button loop) good. $250 - 350

35 213 SATIN and ORGANDY WEDDING GOWN 218 PRINTED VOILE DRESS, 1860s c. 1845 White cotton printed with repeating black Ivory silk having long collared sleeve, the collar foliate devices, having long, full sleeve with open along outer edge and tied with self bow, ruffle to the outer seam and gathered into a deep V-neck with a ruched organdy insert narrow cuff, front ruffle and lace collar, cotton having five silk bands with cord decoration, under-bodice with hook & eye closures, full deep front point with double self piping, very skirt having gauged gathers, single pocket and full skirt with gauged gathers, glazed cotton wide hem backing, B-32, W-22, L-60. (Snaps lining. B-32, W-22, L 56-58. (Very minor wear added to bodice closure, lace collar torn, minor and soil in hem area, faint stain at back closure, age toning to sleeves, brown spots at hem) very stain on skirt back hidden in folds, small seam good. $200 - 300 separation, bow at back waist partly detached) excellent. $800 - 1000 219 STRIPED COTTON DAY DRESS, c. 1867 White muslin with printed black stripe having 214 CREAM SATIN WEDDING DRESS and CAPE, front closure with self ruffle, long sleeve ruffled Lot 223 Detail c. 1845 along outer seam to a narrow cuff, bodice lined Dress bodice with wide V-neck and long sleeve in stiff cotton, separate ruffled overskirt over full trimmed with two bands of pleated damask skirt with two side openings, DLM and auction with lace ruffle and removeable button cuff, tags indicate purchased at Christie’s Auction, bodice front decorated with two curved bands November 23, 1969. B-32, W-22, L 57-60. of looped cord ending at deep front point, full, (Scattered holes and small brown spots, pocket a slightly-trained skirt with gauged gathers at later addition) very good. $300 - 400 piped waistline, side pockets’ shoulder cape with front point, both lined in glazed cotton. 220 EMBROIDERED TAFFETA DRESS, attributed to B-32, W-22, L-52-55. (Cuffs currently pinned HARRIET LANE, 1860 to sleeve lining, capelet hem unfinished, trim 2-piece lilac silk tambour embroidered in a possibly removed, small stain on lining of train) repeating simple white leaf pattern, bodice capelet good, dress excellent. $800 - 1000 having pleated cap sleeve and square neckline, trimmed in blonde lace, decorated with 215 AMERICAN PLAID WOOL DRESS, 1850 appliquéd bands of embroidery, large lace- Green, blue and red having long, full sleeve, trimmed back bow with streamers; full skirt Lot 220 Detail box-pleated at the shoulder and into a narrow with gauged gathers having lilac braided cuff, semi-boned bodice with front hook & eye binding, silk hem facing and tarlatan lining, closures, pleated skirt with three wide ruffles Larson Collection label inked “Harriet Lane”, cut on the bias and a side pocket. B-34, W-26, referring to President Buchanan’s First Lady, L-59. (Collar edge worn, few minor stains, purchased through DLM Lot 146 Christie’s scattered small holes and worn spots, hem ruffle auction, November 24, 1969, no further has numerous thin spots) good. $300 - 400 provenance found. B-36, W-28, L 54-61. (Small splits in shoulders, holes in hem binding, 216 FLORAL PRINTED COTTON DRESS, c. 1856 few tiny holes and minor spots on skirt, lace White cotton having a woven windowpane undersleeves browned, small mend on front printed with claret-colored floral repeats, and point) very good. $600 - 800 three flounces with large floral clusters, ruffled pagoda sleeve, fan-pleated bodice with heavy 221 ENGLISH STRIPED and FRINGED SHOT SILK cotton lining, collar and engageants having GOWN, 1866 eyelet and embroidery, one side pocket and Shot lilac and olive green taffeta with narrow Lot 221 Detail a smaller pocket set below waist. B-40, W-24, purple stripe, boned bodice having a ruched L-57. From “Sample List of Famous European yoke and long, collared sleeve with Van Dyke People and Places” typed by Helen Larson: points and self puffs, trimmed in royal purple “Worn by Lady Harris-Wife of British Governor velvet ribbon, silk fringe and purple silk at Bombay, India.” No further provenance buttons, pleated skirt with small fringed peplum found. Used in department store display, shown and lavender braided hem binding, cotton in copy of photo. Exhibited at the Melbourne lining. B-32, W-26, L-56. (One button detached Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. but retained, few small holes) excellent. $500 - 700 (Engageants pinned in place, one has several spots, dime-sized hole hidden beneath flounce, 222 ENGLISH FLORAL EMBROIDERED SILK bodice back mend below collar and small hole at GOWN, 1867 point) excellent. $600 - 800 3-piece black taffeta having polychrome vining floral in satin stitch with French knots, unboned 217 COTTON DRESS with STRAWBERRY PRINT, 1863 bodice having long collared sleeve decorated 223 VELVET TRIMMED SATIN DRESS, 1868 White with woven horizontal stripe and printed with lace-trimmed bands of embroidery, Cream silk having vertical bands of black black vertical pinstripe printed with clusters polished cotton lining, trained skirt having velvet, peplum bodice with pleated pagoda of flowering strawberries, the long sleeve and three wide embroidered bands to the front, the sleeve trimmed with black lace around neckline, jewel neck are edged in crochet, front-opening uppermost trimmed in black lace, the lowest sleeve and hem edged in black velvet, bow to bodice with a cotton under-bodice having ruched and ruffled around the train, one side peplum, trained skirt, the back having a deep short sleeve and eyelet trim, full, gathered skirt pocket, separate embroidered belt with large band of velvet-trimmed box pleats.Larson shirred at center waist. Featured on plate XXVI, back bow, B-34, W-26, L-43-59. DLM tag with tag states “Mrs. Dickman”. B-34, W-22, skirt L page 71 of Doris Langley Moore’s “The Woman notation “English”. (Bodice mended under 42-52. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, in Fashion”, worn by Miss Margaret Lane, arms, skirt fragile “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Waistband Countess of Huntingdon. B-36, W-26, L-58. (Few at waist, mends and tears, bow detached from lacking closure, several light stains to skirt, few small mends, holes and spots in the shoulder belt, seam separation to lower skirt, beginning very minor black marks to skirt back, one pleat area, mended at waist) good. $400 - 500 to split where it appears a second ruffle was on train has 3-inch split, tiny abrasion on bodice removed) good. $400 - 600 front, one button detached) good. $500 - 700

36 Lot 213 Lot 215 Lot 223

Lot 216 Lot 217

37 224 GAGELIN SILK DRESS with DAY and EVENING BODICES, 1865 - 1870 Buff faille trimmed in seafoam satin and cream lace scallops, cap sleeve evening bodice edged with small folded Van Dyke points, backed around the neckline with pleated gauze and silk ribbon drawstring, separate satin belt with large lace-trimmed back bow; afternoon bodice with pagoda sleeve, self buttons, and bow details; trained skirt having swagged front panel set between narrow satin panels in a loop of large, folded Van Dyke points with bows. Petersham and belt labels “Mon. Gaguelin, 83. Rue Richelieu.83, Paris”, Christie’s auction May 28, 1970, B-32, B-28, W-22, L-38-59. (Afternoon bodice seams let out, skirt largely discolored- noticeable in bright light, hidden 1-inch tear below waistband, some browning of lace, few very minor holes) good. $1500 - 2500

225 ENGLISH 2-PIECE TRAINED SATIN GOWN, c. 1868 Grey silk decorated with bands of fancy cord and tasseled fringe, peplum bodice having long sleeve with ruffled cuff and dorset buttons, skirt with fringed swags caught in self bows to the sides, trained back gathered at the waistline, hem trimmed with pleated and lace-trimmed gauze ruffle, lower skirt backed in tarlatan. Petersham label “Gask & Gask, 58-62. Oxford Street London”, DLM tag, lot 412, Christie’s auction, May 28, 1970. B-36, W-32, L 42-65. (Scattered noticeable spots, bow possibly missing on each cuff as stitches are visible) good. $300 - 500

226 GAGELIN SILK GOWN with TWO BODICES, 1869 Lavender taffeta bustle dress having day bodice trimmed with self ruffles and front bow decorated with white ostrich feathers and self buttons; cap sleeve evening bodice having deep front point decorated with white net and pleated gauze with lavender silk bands and bows; trained skirt with interior bustle ties having a band of feathers above four hem ruffles. From a letter from Doris Langley Moore to Helen Larson: “I long to buy you lot 405, the only dress I’ve ever seen of that date trimmed beautifully with ostrich feathers. I recommend going for that.” DLM tag notes “Earliest labeled dress known”, purchased at Christie’s auction May 27/28, 1970. Both bodices have petersham label “Mon. Gagelin 83. Rue Richlieu. 83 Paris”, B-34, W-27, skirt W-24, L 37-56. (Small hole and few brown spots on skirt, significant tears to net on evening bodice, some feather losses) good. $1000 - 2000

227 IVORY SATIN WEDDING GOWN TRIMMED in SWAN’S DOWN, c. 1865 Long sleeve bodice having padded bust, pearl buttons inset with bronze metal star, down trim at neckline, shoulder and cuff, trained skirt having a shorter gauze overskirt undulating at the hem with a band of down, pleated ribbon and delicate lace with leaf forms, separate belt with large lace-trimmed back bow. B-32, W-30, L 40-52. Purchased from Doris Langley Moore in 1960. (Down losses, waistband fragile, gauze has age toning and scattered holes and spots, seam separations to lace trim) overskirt-fair, otherwise very good. $600 - 800

38 Lot 224 Lot 225

Lot 226 Lot 227

39 228 TRAINED SATIN WEDDING GOWN with 234 GENTLEMAN’S 2-PIECE VELVET LOUNGING BRAIDED TRIM, 1867 SUIT, 1860s 2-piece ivory silk, bodice having squared Peacock blue silk having blue taffeta revers and neckline and long sleeve, trimmed with self cuff, hemline pockets, jacket lined in mauve/ braiding, crocheted buttons, cotton lining; skirt brown shot-silk twill, button-fly trousers having plain front and pleated back with long, with six hidden abalone buttons, front pleats, curved train, stiffened lining. B-32, W-22, L 42- sideseam pockets, shaped high-back waist with 79. (Period alterations to waist, two tiny spots, buckle adjustment, tapered wide leg. DLM snaps added, train is soiled, stains and tears to tag, Christie’s auction lot 116, July 14, 1969, skirt lining) good. $300 - 500 catalogued originally as 1890s, DLM letter to Helen makes the case for a date c. 1863. Ch-40, 229 THREE GENTLEMEN’S WHITE COTTON L-41, W-34, Ins-32. (Neckline torn, splits to cuff DRESS SHIRTS, 1840s edge, some tears to lining, trousers enlarged at One having band collar and densely-tucked bib, center back with non-conforming fabric, some Ch-44, L-33 1/2, (stains on bib, wear and mends seam separation, edgewear, small splits and to collar and front placket). One having small mend in fly area, 1/4-inch velvet loss to one leg) fold-down collar, shaped bib with a series of fair. $800 - 1200 tiny double-tucks, buttonholes for three studs, embroidered near one side slit “12 RFS 60”, 235 FOLK COSTUME, attributed to GENERAL Ch-40, L-37, (small hole in back). One having BUTTERFIELD, 19th C band collar, square bib ruched in six columns, Black wool jacket appliquéd with velvet strips unusual double-pointed back yoke, Ch-48, in various colors with tambour-embroidered L-32, (tiny hole in back, small mend below bib). scrolls and fancy braided ties, Ch-40, L-23 1/2 Good-excellent. $300 - 500 (some wear to velvet, moth holes to lining, missing a tassel); blue velvet fall-front knee 230 GENTLEMAN’S ALPACA CAPE, 1840s breeches having black braid decoration and Dark spruce green wool having an overcape knee tassels, silver filigree buttons, W-32, Ins-16, covering the arm openings and a wide brown (two broken buttons); a black velvet pillbox hat velvet collar, metal hook and chain closure with with label from 1864 Exposition; two red wool stamped floral ornaments, brown glazed cotton sashes with polychrome tambour embroidery quilted lining with padding, wool facings. L-52. Lot 234 and fringe (minor holes and spots), and a pair (Collar partly unstitched, moth damage, some of tan leather gaitors with appliqué embroidery, discoloration and seam separation) fair. $300 - 500 leather tassels and buckles (two straps torn on one). There are several items in the Larson 231 FLECKED COTTON JACKET, 1840s collection with tags that say “Butterfield” or White with woven blue dashes, having fold- “General Butterfield”. Tag on this ensemble down collar, single breast pocket and tail notes “General Butterfield”. General Daniel pockets set in a single back pleats, center vent. Lot 237 Adams Butterfield (1831-1901) was a Union Ch-36, L-34. (Lacking buttons, browning to General during the Civil War. Married Julia collar and shoulders, two abrasions where Safford James (b. 1824) in 1886. Probably Eastern buttons were sewn, pocket edge torn, waist European, perhaps acquired during travels. He seam mended on back) good. $300 - 500 and Julia traveled to Russia in 1890 after their 1886 wedding. $400 - 600 232 FELTED WOOL LIVERY COAT and SUIT, MID 19th C 236 BLACK BEAVER TOP HAT, AUSTRIA, c. 1840 Red coat heavily decorated with metallic Straight-angled sides, turned-up brim bound in gold ribbon having repeating striped crest purple grosgrain ribbon, black brocade ribbon surmounted by crown, the same design appears band with silver metal buckle, silk twill lining on domed silver buttons flanked by two figures, and leather sweatband. Label “Joh. Huckel Neu- fancy faux pockets with shaped flap above Titschein”, 10 x 12 x 7 1/2. (Slightly crushed ruched ribbon, hidden tail pockets, self lining below crown, some wear to edge of crown) with cotton at the back, C-42, L-42. (Moth holes, good. Together with a c. 1840 blonde beaver top some black paint on sleeve, some losses to trim, hat with brown ribbon band, 10 x 12 x 6. (Moth particularly under arms). Beige suit, the jacket damage, lacking lining and sweatband) fair. trimmed with yellow felt and metallic gold $200 - 400 braid having silver metal buttons with fancy “CN” monogram, button-fly trousers with side 237 GENT’S HIGH HAT and FITTED TIN BOX, seam, back and watch pockets, Ch-40, L- 30, NEW HAMPSHIRE, 1840s W-36 Ins-41. (Scattered moth damage, light Blonde beaver hat with slightly inward staining and soil, metallic braid on collar slightly curving sides, narrow cream silk ribbon and frayed, missing a belt loop). Fair. $500 - 800 brim binding, small bow, paper lining, glazed sweat band. Label “Jas. Brickett Manufacturer 233 GENTLEMAN’S SATIN JACKET, MID 19th C Claremont N. H.”, 11 1/2 x 13 x 8. (Losses Olive-brown with self buttons, fold-down collar to pile, some staining, brim binding mostly with small lapel having button closure, three destroyed, paper lining torn, sweatband and welt pockets, unlined with self facings. Ch-38, inner trim band detached). Fitted tin hatbox L-33. (Large fade marks mainly on the back, with hinged lid and clasp. (Clasp lacking pin scattered tiny holes) fair. $200 - 300 Lot 232 Detail closure, wear to finish). Good. $1000 - 1500

40 238 THREE BLACK BEAVER TOP HATS, 1840s - 1890s 244 TWO WIDE BLACK CHANTILLY LACE One having narrow silk ribbon band with tiny FLOUNCES, 1860s oval buckle, 10 x 12 x 7, (some wear to edge of One having floral sprays and gently undulating brim, under-brim very worn, small dent). One scalloped border, 23 x 148, (few small holes having narrow grosgrain band with bow and and one hole 1 x 3 inches). One dotted above a silk under-brim, label “Westcott & Hammond, serpentine floral garland over floral clusters and Utica, N. Y.”, 10 1/2 x 12 x 7, (slight wear to large fan motif at scalloped border, joined with brim edge, sides dented, tear to paper lining). two seams, DLM tag, 25 x 184, (few small holes One having wide felt band, brim edged in and one larger hole) good. $300 - 400 grosgrain ribbon, folded at the sides, label “Youmans, New York”, 9 3/4, x 11 3 /4 x 6, 245 MATCHING PAIR DRESS FLOUNCES and a (some side dents). Fair-good. $100 - 200 BERTHA of SILK HONITAN LACE, 1840s Cream silk both having an abstract floral motif 239 TWO TOP HATS and a BOWLER, EARLY 1900s with winding vines. Flounces 20 inches deep by All black: One silk Ottoman crusher, label “Geo. 4 3/4 yards and 5 yards (9 3/4 total), bertha 9 W. Allen, Philadelphia”, 10 x 12 x 5 1/2 (two x 48. (Mends, patches and holes) flounces fair- mended tears to lining, wear to brim edge). One good, bertha very good. $200 - 300 felt with narrow grosgrain band and turned-up brim, label “Rodgers Peet and Company, New 246 TWO BLACK LACE FLOUNCES, 1855 - 1865 York”, 9 x 11 1/2 x 6, (wear to the under-brim). Both floral with swags and scallops: One silk, One felt bowler with grosgrain band and brim 12 x 113, (holes, damaged along scalloped edge) binding, 10 1/2 x 11 1/4 x 5, (label illegible, fair. One mixed Chantilly and Maltese laces, 16 x underbrim is stained, sweatband worn). Good. 188, (few minor breaks) very good. $200 - 300 $100 - 200 247 CARRICKMACKROSS LACE SKIRT FLOUNCE, 240 THREE GENTS BLACK BEAVER TOP HATS, 1850s MID-LATE 19th C Lot 255 Irish linen hand appliquéd on silk machine One having turned-up brim, grosgrain band netting in a floral pattern having meandering and binding, label “Blaylock Co. Philadelphia.”, band of flowers at bottom with picoted floral 8 x 10 x 7, (underbrim very worn, lining torn, edging. 21 inches x 5 yards. (Some small holes lacking sweatband). One having silk band, brim and small light spots) very good. $300 - 500 folded to the sides with grosgrain binding, label “Prima Qualatit”, 10 x 11 1/2 x 6, (sweatband 248 A PAIR of MATCHING CHANTILLY LACE torn and marked with ink). One high hat having DRESS FLOUNCES, 1860s narrow grosgrain band with tiny buckle, label Black net having a scrolling floral with “J. B. Anderson, Trenton NJ.”, 10 x 11 3/4 x 8, pendulous flowers and stylized tulips above an (some wear to crown edge). Fair-very-good. arching border, both joined, 19 deep x 104 and $100 - 200 170. (Scattered holes) good-very good. $300 - 500

241 FOUR GENTLEMEN’S FELT TOP HATS, 1860s 249 LOT of HEAVY LACE TRIM, EARLY 20th C. - 1900s One L-shaped piece of ivory tape lace with All with turned up brim having grosgrain white fagoting and brown roundels, 11 inches band and brim binding: One grey, label x 3 3/4 yards total; one cream floral lace stole “Melton, Hatter to the Queen, London”, 10 x appliquéd on an organza base, 16 inches x 12 x 7, (dented, sweatband, binding and lining 2 1/2 yards; one wide cream flounce with damaged). One beige, label “People’s Choice”, embroidered floral, 18 inches x 2 1/4 yards, with 9 1/2 x 11 1/4 x 6, (surface moth damage, spots a matching neckpiece, 8 x 32. Good. $150 - 250 to ribbon, paper label torn). One taupe, 10 x 11 3/4 x 5 1/2, (crack to crown, dents, tears, hole 250 TIPPET and LACE SHAWL, MID 19th C in sweatband). All fair. One brown 10 x 12 1/4 x Both white cotton: muslin tippet having inserts 5 1/2, (section of sweatband cut out) otherwise of Ayrshire whitework and lace-edged frills, excellent. $100 - 200 DLM tag, 13 x 120 (several holes). Mantle of embroidered lace with drawn threadwork and 242 GENTLEMAN’S NEEDLEPOINT SLIPPERS, 1860s fagoting, photographed in “The Woman in Black wool with red, white and green tufted Fashion” 1949, by Doris Langley Moore, plate rose pattern, brown twill binding, 5/8 stacked 28, modeled by Miss Beatrice Lillie (Lady Peel), heel, two-tone leather sole. L-10 1/2. Including 17 x 78 (few broken brides). Good-very good. custom mounts. (Minor losses to needlepoint) $250 - 350 excellent. $300 - 400 251 HONITON LACE TIPPET and STOLE SET, 243 LOT of LACE TRIM, 1830s - 1840s 1840s - 1850s Handmade silk blonde lace yardage with floral Cream with crosshatch floral pattern and motif, 3 inches x 8 1/2 yards, (some spots, few scalloped border, 25 x 110, (few light stains) and holes). Linen and silk needlerun skirt flounce 14 x 100, (small repair). Together with a Honiton having meandering floral repeat and scalloped lace flounce fragment, 7 x 43. Very good. $300 - 500 edge, 20 x 67, (spots). Four pieces white silk taffeta having embroidered scalloped gauze edging, 16 yards (stains). Good $200 - 300 Lot 242

41 252 SILK APPLIQUE NET MANTLE, 1850s Ivory taffeta on silk net shaped triangle with collar having a stylized floral and scalloped borders with dot and arch motif. 21 x 74. (Few small stains) very good. $150 - 250

253 FOUR BLONDE LACE STOLES, 1830s - 1850s One ivory with large floral, 20 x 91 (few large spots). One cream foliate pattern with scrolled border design, 24 x 72, (few minor holes). One cream floral having angled scrolling end borders, 22 x 75. One ivory decorated at the end borders with a floral motif having heavy running stitch outlines, 16 x 75, (scattered small dark spots and holes). Good-excellent. $250 - 350

254 LARGE WEDDING VEIL with FLOWERS on NETTING, MID 19th C Cream square with a sprigged field and floral border with large sprays to the corners. DLM tag with note “Late Regency”. 70 x 68. (Scattered small holes and spots, some brown spots to the border) good. $200 - 300

255 APPLIQUE LACE WEDDING VEIL, 1860s Spotted cream net square with a floral border of fine Brussels lace and a scalloped border of “C” scrolls, pictured in plate XXXIV, Doris Langley Moore’s “The Woman in Fashion”, 1949, modeled by Miss Rosella Hightower. 77 x 77. Lot 257 Lot 259 Lot 263 (Few almost imperceptible tiny spots) excellent. $300 - 500

256 TWO WHITE LACE WEDDING VEILS, EARLY - MID 19th C One dotted cotton net oval with a delicate appliqué lace border, 71 x 102. One silk netting with appliqué edge of Limerick lace, DLM tag, 58 x 78, (Scattered tiny holes and light spots). Very good. $300 - 500

257 LARGE NET SHAWL with SILK APPLIQUE, 1850s Black with overall floral decoration having a border with large swags and bows with teardrop-shaped reserves, scalloped border, DLM tag, 82 x 158. (Scattered small holes)very good. $250 - 350

258 THREE CHANTILLY LACE SHAWLS, 1860s All black machine-made triangles: One having large floral roundel at center, 50 x 110 (edge tears); one evenly faded to brown, 50 x 146 (several mends); one lightweight black with fern motif , 48 x 140 (scattered holes). Fair-good. $200 - 300

259 BLONDE CALAIS LACE SHAWL, 1860s Large silk triangle with floral clusters and a deep swagged border having teardrop-shaped reserves edged in flower heads within arches, DLM tag. 40 x 160. (Scattered brown spots, few small holes) good. $300 - 500

260 CHANTILLY LACE SHAWL, 1860s Large black machine lace triangle shaped to fit around the neck, with floral clusters, border swag above floral arches, 47 x 94. (Scattered minor holes) very good. $300 - 400 Lot 265

42 261 TWO CHANTILLY LACE SHAWLS, 1860s 274 WHITE TAFFETA FRONT-LACING BOOTS, Both black machine-lace triangles: One having 1840s geometric border with diamond lattice, 52 x 104 Straight flats in cream faille, silk lining and kid (few small holes and very minor edge losses). insole. 9 3/4 x 6 1/2. Excellent. $300 - 400 One having a border of fan swags, 51 x 136, (2-inch section of edge picots missing). Very 275 TWO PAIR LADIES’ BUTTON-UP BOOTS, 1860s good-excellent. $400 - 500 Both black satin having small heel and black buttons: One with burgundy taffeta facings, 10 262 THREE CREAM CHANTILLY LACE SHAWLS, 1860s x 8, (some wear along sole, 1/2-inch split to one All having floral clusters, swags and scalloped quarter, missing one button) good.One having borders. One large square, 77 x 76 (numerous self bow, scalloped around buttonholes and spots and small holes) fair. Two triangular: One blue silk facing, 10 x 7, (missing one button) having five large graduated swags, 55 x 52, (few excellent. $300 - 400 scattered holes and light spots); the other, 46 x 55, (some edge tears) both good. $300 - 500 276 TWO PAIR KID LEATHER ANKLE BOOTS, 1860 - 1870 Lot 271 263 LARGE CHANTILLY LACE SHAWL, 1860s One pair white side-lacing with curved top, Black machine lace triangle with scrolling floral, rounded square toe, blue silk facings, fabric partially dotted ground, and a border with lining and insole. 9 x 8 with 1 1/2-inch heel, diamond lattice and lozenge shapes, attached (light soil and wear, facings shattering) good. note “Mantilla found in White House attic, One bronze having white-edged scallop details Renovation 1881”, no further provenance found. around off-center buttons, white topstitching, 60 x 170. (1 x 1 1/2-inch hole) very good. $300 - 400 square toe, blue leather facings, L-10 with 1-inch heel, excellent. $200 - 400 264 LIGHTWEIGHT CHANTILLY LACE SHAWL, 1860s Black triangle hand-decorated with fine floral 277 TWO CREAM SATIN BONNETS, 1840s motifs bordered with arcs and “C” scrolls. 55 x Both ruched and having wired brim, trimmed 152. (Holes, small mends) fair. $200 - 300 with cream ribbon: One having side bow, pink silk brim lining with pink ribbon bows 265 RARE CHANTILLY LACE CAPE, c. 1860 and ties, 7 x 10 1/2 x 8 1 /2, includes custom Large black rotunda of dotted net with floral mount, (pink ribbon pinned to hat, possibly not clusters within large teardrop-shaped swags original, ties very torn, edge wear). One edged above a large-scale floral border, scalloped at in blue satin ribbon with partial blue lining, the hem. DLM tag. L-55, circumference-120. Lot 277 small corsage of orange and white flowers, 7 x 9 Excellent. $700 - 900 x 9 1/2, (few small splits in crown, flowers and blue silk probably added later). Good. Together 266 FOUR LADIES’ LACE WRAPS, 1820s - 1860s 270 TWO PAIR CREAM FLATS with SILK with two pairs brown natural hair sausage curls: Two cream triangular shawls, both having DECORATION, 1840s and 1860s one set with five curls, L-6 1/4; one set having floral embroidery: one taupe, 26 x 69; one cream One pair with elongated tongue having satin four curls and black velvet ribbon ties, L-4 1/2, with ruffle, 37 x 64 (stains). One long cream ruching and oval silver buckle, Label “Chaz. inked DLM labels. Good-very good. $150 - 250 net coat having long narrow sleeve, curved at Hubert de Paris 292 Regent Street London”, the hem with delicate floral embroidery, L-51 inked “Droit” and “Gauche”, L-9 3/4. (Large 278 THREE WIRED-BRIM STRAW BONNETS, 1840s (large holes and tears). One black Chantilly lace splits at back of quarter); one pair kid leather One having lace-trimmed tan silk ribbon band jacket with pagoda sleeve having small collar at with silk rosettes, L-9 1/4 (wear to silk binding). and bows, cloth flower corsage, underbrim the shoulder and rounded hemline, B-36, L-22 Fair-good. $150 - 250 edged in openwork and brocade ribbon bands, (holes). Fair-good. $250 - 350 tulle lining, rose satin ties, 8 x 10 x 9 1/2 , DLM 271 TWO PAIR FRENCH CHAMELEON SHOES, 1860s tag, (some seam separation, splits and losses 267 TWO PAIR LEATHER SLIPPERS with SILK Both glazed brown leather, cream tambour to flowers, some tears to ribbon). One having BOW, 1830s - 1850s embroidery and dagged throat with ruched silk brown and white striped silk band and bavolet Both straights and flats: One pair cream having ribbon, taffeta lining: One inset with pink silk, with tiny braided straw band, 7 x 11 x 9, (small pleated bow with lace and silk button detail, label “Viault Esté Paris No. 17, Rue de la Paix, holes in ribbon, lining mostly destroyed, wire slender braided cord ties, L-8 3/4 (some stains, Thierry & Sons, Regent Street, 278, London”, L-9 unbound, plaid ribbon ties not original). One minor seam separation, ties to one broken and 1/4. One with blue silk, label “Esté 13 Rue de la with steel blue silk ribbon trim and ties, pink missing); one white having ruched bow with Paix, Paris”, inkscript “Mrs. J. N. George”, L-9 cloth roses, tulle lining, 8 x 11 x 9, (small spot, mother-of-pearl buckle, L-10, (small brown spot, 3/4. (Losses to binding at heel, slight wear to some seam separation, lining mostly missing, minor soil). Fair-very good. $100 - 200 toes) both excellent. $700 - 900 scattered tiny holes in silk). Fair to good. Lot includes a bag of curls, not original to hats. $150 268 TWO PAIR LEATHER SLIPPERS, 1830 - 1850 272 VELVET SLIPPERS with CHENILLE - 250 One pair iridescent brown leather with tiny silk EMBROIDERY, c. 1860 rosette, binding and slender looped tie, one kid Black with pink and green chenille embroidered 279 TWO BLACK MOURNING BONNETS, 1840s insole marked “Droit”, L-9. One pair yellow kid flowers on vamp, M-shaped throat decorated and c. 1860 having bow vamp with oval silver buckle, L-9 with ruched pink silk, square toe, stacked heel, One drawn bonnet of crinkled chiffon having 1/4, (lining has some foxing). Excellent. $300 - 400 kid lining. L-9 1/2. (Wear to toes, significant six wide ribs, sheer bavolet, self flower and bow losses to velvet quarters) fair. $200 - 300 decoration, grosgrain ribbon ties, silk lining, 269 TWO PAIR LADIES’ CHAMELEON SHOES, 1840s unlined crown, 6 1/2 x 8 1/2 x 8, (1/4-inch hole Both glazed leather having cream tambour 273 TWO PAIR SIDE-LACING ANKLE BOOTS, and few smaller holes in chiffon), DLM tag. One embroidery, silk inserts and low heel: One black 1820s and MID-19th C silk trimmed with blue piping having extended having blue silk inserts, 1 1/4-inch heel, marked One pair cream cotton straight flats having brim ruffled to the inside, black and blue striped “Walker 397 6 Avenue”, (some wear to binding blue kid leather cap toe and trim to quarter, L-9 bavolet and interior ruffle, lined in black lace and toes, small split and nicks in heel). One 3/4, (some losses to leather, cotton very soiled, on net, net crown, note pinned to hat, “Schuyler brown having pink silk inserts, 1 1/8-inch heel lacking laces) fair. One pair taupe wool with 1860”, 9 x 12 x 8, (splits to bavolet, pinholes in (nicks in heel, small section of leather missing rounded square toe, small stacked heel, braided ties). Good-very good. $150 - 250 from one heel). Good. $600 - 800 laces, L-9 1/2, (scattered small holes in wool) good. $150 - 250

43 280 TWO DRAWN SILK BONNETS, 1840s 287 THREE STRAW BONNETS with VELVET TRIM, One grey taffeta having sixteen ribs, box-pleated 1880s bavolet with mesh backing, cream silk under- One natural trimmed with brown velvet, brim, unlined crown, 7 1/2 x 10 x 8, (light stain pressed velvet leaves, puffed chenille, raffia and to one side, ties have splits and stains). One metallic cord, label “A. Cummings, Woburn”, black and white stripe having nine ribs with 6 1/2 x 9 1/2 x 3 1/2, (detached leaf). One three self ruffles, box-pleated bavolet with mesh tan novelty weave having puffed lavender backing, under-brim having tulle ruffle, black silk faille, wired lavender and yellow bows, and brown cotton linings, unlined crown, 7 1/2 embroidery, raffia foliage, brown velvet under- x 9 1/2 x 6 1/2, (wear to the edge of brim and brim, 7 x 8 x 5 1/2, (slight wear to velvet, lining bavolet). Good. $100 - 200 stained). One brown bouclé straw with brown velvet, cream silk crepe, gold metallic braided 281 TWO RIBBED SILK BONNETS with FLOWERS, swirls and copper iridill beads, label “Higgins, 1840s London”, 5 x 8 x 6, (minor tarnish, crepe One brown high-brim style having eight possibly not original, tear to label) very good. collapsible ribs, pleated bavolet, brown Lot 286 $250 - 350 grosgrain ties, decorated with cloth flowers, 9 x 13, (dark stains, crown lining torn, some losses 288 THREE SMALL BROWN STRAW HATS, to flowers). One green having six ribs and cream 1880s - 1890s and pale pink flowers, the under-brim lined in Two fancy weave having turned-up tan silk, 10 x 10 x 7, (edge wear, hole and stains brim, striped ribbon and velvet to under-brim, silk ties probably not original), flowers, silk lining: One 7 x 9 1/2 fair-good. $100 - 200 x 6, (one side of brim broken, 4-inch break along fold); one 282 TWO STRAW BONNETS with STRIPED 8 x 7 x 6. One having velvet- RIBBON, 1840 - 1855 covered turned-up brim, wired One having rust silk ribbon with brown and band with pendant flowers, green stripe around brim forming bavolet and velvet bow and feather, 9 ties, the bavolet edged in fine straw braid, 1/2 x 8 x 6, (split and small under-brim decorated with cloth violets and hole in straw, feathers are tulle, 9 x 12 x 8, (some seam separation, breaks disintegrating). Together with to the brim edge). One fancy-weave having a ruched and ruffled brown silk green and white striped ribbon with woven dot, bonnet, DLM tag, 8 x 7 x 4. Fair - silk bavolet trimmed with braided and looped very good. $200 - 400 straw, under-brim lined in pleated silk with lace ruffle and silk bow, 11 x 12 x 9 1/2, (split 289 THREE STRAW HATS, 1880s in brim, tear and small holes to ribbon, small One black with downturned brim having section of straw broken on bavolet, lining has ombréed mauve ostrich plume, ribbed velvet Lot 282 small holes in silk and browning). Good. $250 - 350 ribbon band and openwork jet ornament, label “London Finish Sunnyside”, 9 x 12 x 6,(paper 283 TWO MATCHING CHILDREN’S VELVET lining in crown torn, small break in brim). One HATS, 1860s tan with wide-weave upturned brim and flat Black pillboxes having pink silk ribbon crown of a finer weave decorated with plush sawtooth band, the side decorated with a pink grapes and teal ostrich plume 12 x 9 x 4. One and brown striped silk bow and velvet pom- fancy weave tan straw having a ruched velvet pom, DLM tag, 5 x 6, 6 x 6 1/2. (Slight top edge band with back bow, berries and leaves, a wear to larger one, smaller has one seam poorly spray of dyed feathers and an ivory silk ribbon, mended) very good. $60 - 100 includes custom mount. 9 x 10 x 5 1/2. (Silk ribbon has some splits, some feather losses). 284 YOUNG LADY’S SATIN COVERED STRAW Good-excellent. $300 - 400 HAT, c. 1870 Ivory silk having flat crown and tall brim, the 290 FOUR INTERESTING BONNETS, 1870s and under-brim covered in ruched chiffon, a band of 1890s pale lavender cloth flowers flanked by gathered One black straw having a chenille-dotted veil chiffon poufs with long ties, twisted chiffon trimmed with black pleated Chantilly lace, band with large pouf to either side, satin lining. 286 PURPLE TOQUE MODELED by VIVIAN wired jet beads, cloth flowers, white silk ribbon 12 x 11 x 6. (Splits and shattering to chiffon LEIGH, 1870s and lace lappets, 6 1/2 x 6 1/2, worn by Miss under-brim, lining splitting away from brim, White-painted straw covered in lavender satin Googie Withers in “The Woman in Fashion”, minor edge wear at crown) good. $100 - 200 and ribbed purple silk bands, turned-up brim plate XXXVI, (small hole in veil). One wired ruffled with black lace, crown covered with black net overlaid with four upright wired tiers 285 TWO BEADED LACE BONNETS, c. 1865 - 1880s lavender ostrich feathers, bows and black lace. of loosely woven brown raffia having trim of Both having embroidered net: One ivory Modeled by Vivian Leigh in Doris Langley small leaves and rosebuds, brown velvet ties, decorated with pearl beads and drops, Moore’s “The Woman in Fashion”, 1949. 7 x 9 7 x 7, (ties soiled). Both with DLM tag. One embroidered crown, (few missing beads); one x 4. (Edge of crown unstitched, lacking lining) covered in black chiffon, edged in scalloped net over pink silk having white cloth flowers, good. Together with a “jockey” style small- velvet, decorated with jet floral beadwork and crown decorated with pale blue beads and pink brimmed straw hat, c. 1868, trimmed in blue butterfly ornament, taffeta ribbon, cloth flowers ribbon ties, (stains on ties, small hole in net). ribbon, lace and roses, label “Mrs. S. Grain, and pink feathers, velvet ties with paste buckles, Very good. $100 - 200 Cambridge”, 6 1/2 x 9 1/2 x 3. (Trim not original, hat pin, 7 x 7. (Some clouding of beads, minor breaks to straw) fair. $200 - 400 trim losses) very good. One covered in knotted silk floss, decorated with cloth flowers, sequined floral ornaments with steel beads, black lace, green velvet bow and streamers, 9 x 7. (Minor losses, ribbon edging shattered). Both include custom mounts. Good-excellent. $300 - 500

44 291 FIVE COILED METAL BUSTLES, 1870s - 1890s 299 TWO YOUNG GIRLS’ LACE DRESSES, 1870 All covered in cotton: Three having triple coils - 1880 (one torn); one with double curved coils (one is Both white cotton lavishly decorated with bent); one having a single coil. Smallest 6 x 6, lace inserts and embroidery: One having short largest 10 x 9. (Tears and splits to covers, soiled) sleeve, large collar, cutwork and embroidery, fair-very good. $100 - 200 B-34, L-33, tag indicates purchased in Paris, (few tiny spots, holes and mends). One with long 292 SIX BUSTLES, 1870 - 1890s sleeve, lace bands alternating with eyelet and One having cotton-covered steel bands shaped embroidery, sawtooth trim and scalloped ruffles, in concentric half circles, label “W.R. Witherell”; pale green silk bow at back waist, B-34, W-32, one of metal wire mesh with twill waistband; L-34, (small repair, spots on bow). Very good- one of exposed metal bands with tan twill excellent. $200 - 300 straps, label “The Princess Bustle Patent June 20, 99”; one of gathered horsehair with laces; one 300 YOUNG LADY’S 2-PIECE STRIPED COTTON white cotton mesh having covered bands; one DRESS, 1876 having padded cotton channels. Smallest 5 x 12, Cream with black and red figured stripe, largest 23 x 9. (Some tears, broken bands, stains) scalloped trim bands having red floral fair-very good. $150 - 250 embroidery, polonaise bodice with interior drawstrings, long sleeve , stand collar and 293 LOBSTER TAIL BUSTLE, 1873 - 1878 back buttons over slightly gathered skirt with Ruffled horsehair fabric gathered in rows pocket and deep hem ruffle. B-30, W-24, skirt over metal bands covered in cotton, lacing L-27. (Missing two buttons, some fraying to interior panel, waist strap with buckle, L-25. buttonholes, small stains and scattered spots, (Some metal poking through cover, few holes some browning, overskirt has a 2-inch split in horsehair, waistband was enlarged, laces around front drawstring) good. $200 - 300 replaced) good. $100 - 150 301 GIRL’S TAFFETA BUSTLE DRESS, 1870s 294 YOUNG LADY’S PLAID TAFFETA DRESS, 1860 Midnight blue silk with yellow piping, having Cobalt blue, bronze and white plaid with long-sleeved bodice, narrow stand collar, fringed pagoda sleeve, front closure having Lot 294 ruched shoulder cap, sleeve is trimmed with cobalt buttons with gold inlay and collar, full faux buttonholes, buttons embroidered with skirt with gauged gathers and pocket, polished star, gold and purple bows and lace cuffs, back cotton lining. B-29, W-20, L-54. (Very faint buttons above hip swag with large fringed underarm stains, some wear to hem binding, bow, skirt decorated with a band of folded and tiny hole) excellent. $250 - 350 fringed ribbon above pleated half-scallops. B-28, W-24, L-43. (Few tiny splits in the lower skirt, 295 THREE LITTLE GIRLS’ ENSEMBLES, 1860 - 1870 some pulled threads to buttons, 2-inch narrow One white ribbed cotton top with button front, abrasion near one cuff) good. $400 - 600 tan button-on skirt with brown soutache band, B-22, L-32, (two tiny stains to back waistband). 302 GIRL’S 2-PIECE ORGANZA BUSTLE DRESS, 1880s One blue linen cap sleeve button-front dress and Cream cotton having long-sleeve bodice with matching coat trimmed in white soutache, B-22, stays, ruffled lace collar and cuff, shaped with L-22, (seam separation at shoulders, spots on Lot 296 Detail ruching front and back, decorated with pink skirt). One 3-piece wool tartan ensemble with silk bows, skirt gathered into swags edged in black velvet trim and self ruffles, comprised of 297 YOUNG LADY’S 3-PIECE LINEN SPORTING lace over a cotton skirt with four pleated hem jacket, skirt and overskirt, paper note sewn to ENSEMBLE, 1868 ruffles, the bottom being of pink silk. Both jacket “Made for Florence Hutchinson in New Brown with navy blue piping, bodice with pieces tagged “Pandora Moore”, likely worn by York City”, B-28, W-22, skirt L-19, (scattered elbow-length sleeve, small stand collar and Doris’ daughter in fashion shows. B-26, W-24, small holes, some wear to velvet). Good- faceted black oval buttons; jacket with 3/4 L-28. (Brown stains on bodice, two small spots excellent. $400 - 500 sleeve, rounded collar, button tab closure and on skirt back, few small holes and mends) fair. back patch pockets; skirt pleated at the back and $100 - 200 296 BOY’S 3-PIECE BUFFALO PLAID WOOL SUIT, raised to one side with tucks and interior ties, 1860s B-32, W-20, skirt L-29-36. (Lacking underskirt, 303 FOUR CHILDREN’S WHITE COTTON Black and red wool jacket, knickers, and some browning to jacket, few small spots). GARMENTS, 1895 - 1900 overskirt, the jacket having molded silver metal Together with a girl’s 1860s white cotton pique Three dresses: One having ruffles with faux buttons, tab closure at neck and faux 3-piece ensemble with white soutache trim, geometric pattern of large eyelets and pocket flaps, tabbed hem, knickers with small consisting of a long-sleeve dress, overbodice embroidered dots, B-32, W-29, L-23, (missing fly opening and button cuff, pleated overkilt, with peplum and overskirt, B-28, W-22, L-35. two button loops); one with overdress of wide jacket and breeches lined in polished cotton. Ch- (Browning to the sleeves, scattered spots, holes cotton bands and blue ribbons, purchased in 22, W-20, Ins-8, kilt L-15. (Missing one button, in bodice neckline and bust, overskirt has stains Paris, B-22, L-21, (ribbon replaced); one having several holes, wear to cuffs, large repairs and on waistband). Both good. $400 - 600 bands of tucks alternating with eyelet and tears to knees, some seams fraying, few spots) embroidery, B-24, L-23. One coat having tucks, fair. $100 - 150 298 TWO YOUNG GIRLS’ DRESSES, 1870 - 1880 eyelet and embroidery with wide collar, B-22, Both with long sleeve, ruffled cuff and back L-21, (lacking ribbons). Excellent. $150 - 250 buttons: One cream organdy bustle dress trimmed with bands of blue ribbon overlaid with cream lace, center-front with ladder effect and ruched fillings, B-26, L-37. (Modern underdress, some age toning particularly to sleeves and skirt back, missing a silk bow on skirt, browning and holes to bodice lining) fair. One cream muslin with bands of tucks alternating with rick-rack floral, dropped waist and gathered skirt, B-26, L-30 (browning at the shoulders, two tiny spots on skirt) good. $150 - 250

45 Items 304 - 309 & 315 - 323

Bid through Doris Langley

Moore at Christie's Auction July Lot 304 11, 1967. Helen Larson called this "The Queen's Auction" due to soRoyalty many objects in the sale with royal provenance. The en- semble was part of a larger group of objects cataloged as Lot 306 follows: “The majority of the 306 TWO PAIR SHOES, PRINCESS LOUISE of following dresses were the PRUSSIA, c. 1870 and 1880s property of the late Princess From Christie’s Auction, included in a lot of “Ten items, belonging to Princess Louise of Marie Elizabeth of Wied of Prussia”. One pair fuchsia satin pumps Schloss Monrepos, Neuwied having elaborate grosgrain and satin ruffles, grosgrain ribbon heel, kid (b. 1880); many earlier dresses lining, L-9 1/2 with 1 1/4-inch heel, belonged to her grandmother, includes two-piece custom mounts, label “H. W. Berenbak, Place No. 5. A La Haye.” One pair lavender ottoman having self bow to vamp and strap with hook & eye closure, kid lining and insole, label “Oppermann & Co. 60. Unter d. Linden 60 of Prussia ”. Berlin”, L-9 1/2 with 1 1/4-inch heel. Excellent. $400 - 600

304 FIGURED SILK GOWN, PRINCESS LOUISE of 307 THREE PAIR STOCKINGS, PRINCESS LOUISE PrincessPRUSSIA, c. 1825 Louise of PRUSSIA, 1890s Cream satin figured with star flowers having All having buttons for garters: One blue with boatneck edged in tiny pleats above a ruched clocks (stained heels and bottom of foot); one band of aerophane, the bodice draped with pink with clocks; one black with lace having a swag of self pleats over the shoulder and white toe. Lot 151, Christie’s, July 11, 1967. fastening at back beneath drawstring neckline, Good-excellent. Together with a mismatched voluminous sleeve with self wings tapering into pair of gold lame stockings, 1920s, in poor a cuff with petal shapes and self piping, pleated condition-not photographed. $300 - 400 skirt set into high waistband with separate belt, padded hem with small train. B-36, W-25, L-58- 308 TWO TULLE HATS, PRINCESS LOUISE of 67. (Some tearing to aerophane, skirt has three PRUSSIA, 1880s - 1890s large mended vertical tears, brown spots and Both wired and covered in ruched cream tulle: stains near the hem) good. $1200 - 1500 One decorated with yellow roses; one decorated with straw to the crown and having a band of 305 TAFFETA GOWN with ROYAL PROVENANCE, 1828 purple poppies on a velvet band, velvet ties. Probably worn by Princess Louise. Oyster silk Both labeled “L. Leopold Emmelhainz Nachf/ having boatneck edged in tiny pleats above a Wiesbaden”, approximately 7 x 7 x 3 1/2 with ruched band of aerophane, the bodice draped custom mounts. (Some tearing to tulle) good- with a swag of self pleats rounding the shoulder very good. $150 - 250 and fastening at back beneath drawstring neckline, voluminous sleeve with self wings 309 VELVET HAT, PRINCESS LOUISE of PRUSSIA, at shoulder tapering into a cuff with petal 1890s shapes and self piping, pleated skirt set into Small hat of wired black velvet decorated with high waistband with separate belt, padded hem sequined black lace, black and white feathers, with small train, B-36, W-25, L-56. (Scattered self chin strap with bow, silk lining. Label “L. light spots and minor holes, few small holes in Leopold Emmelhainz Nachf/Wiesbaden”, 7 x 7 Lot 308 Detail aerophane, hemline soiled) good. x 10. (Chin strap lacking hook & eye closure and $800 - 1200 is pinned in place) very good. $100 - 200 Lot 309

46 Items 310 -314 -

Doris Langley Moore acquired these garments from M. Deane Queenby way of Mrs. Alexandra Cook, niece of Harriet Giltrap, who was given or inherited them from Giltrap, dresser to Queen Alexandra.

310 PARTIAL SILK and WOOL ENSEMBLE, QUEEN ALEXANDRA, 1860s Blue silk blouse with long sleeve having a band collar, cuff and bodice trimmed in ecru Lot 311 lace, dorset buttons, B-36; a fine cream wool jacket decorated with matching blue silk bands and lace, B-38; slightly trained blue silk taffeta petticoat, the lower half decorated with seven bands of pinked scallops, W-24, L-40-45. (The blouse has large stains lower front, jacket has scattered holes and spots, few stains on the lace) fair; (petticoat has few tiny holes, scattered minor spots) good. Together with two pair of Queen Alexandra’s black silk stockings, one pair Lot 310 with clocks and white sole, the top marked “M. F.”, the other with lower lace pattern marked “McCreery”, (glue or nail polish repair to one). 314 LOT of EPHEMERA PERTAINING to QUEEN $200 - 300 ALEXANDRA, 1880s-1900s Including royal portraits, marriage ceremony 311 FRENCH DOLMAN with GOLD CORD, book for Princess Louise of Wales and the Earl QUEEN ALEXANDRA, c. 1870 of Fife, Queen Alexandra’s Christmas gift book Brown cashmere decorated allover with brown containing her own photographs, published silk soutache and metallic cord in a foliate 1908, various timetables and books with travel pattern with scrolls, silk lining. Label “Dieulafait arrangements for the royals. Together with & E. Bouclier”, DLM tag notes, “Early specimen greeting cards sent to Mrs. Giltrap. $100 - 200 of label”. L-25. (Some scattered small holes and fairly large moth holes at hems) good. $300 - 400

312 CUTWORK LINEN JACKET and BODICE, QUEEN ALEXANDRA, 1898 - 1900 Cream linen blouse hand embroidered with eyelet and satin-stitch, having high neck, long sleeve slightly puffed at the shoulder, tucks and waistband with point, silk lining;matching V-neck boned jacket with cuffed sleeve, side slits and back vent flanked by crocheted faux buttons and buttonholes, cotton lining. DLM tag “Linen hand-embroidered blouse and jacket from Queen Alexandra”. B-34, jacket L- 39. (Some tears to lining, mainly in the collar and cuff, petersham torn) excellent. $300 - 400

313 TWO JACKETS with SILK BRAID, QUEEN ALEXANDRA, 1900 Both cream wool trimmed with cream silk braid and looped cord: One having 3/4 sleeve, faux waistcoat front and cuff with fancy macramé, metallic cord, and crocheted barrel buttons, B-34, L-19. (Some soil, two small moth holes, dotted silk lining shattered). One having long sleeve with mother-of-pearl buttons, back peplum with satin half-belt , B-36, L-24. (Red stains on sleeves, the satin belt is splitting). Both labeled “Vernon 191.192. Sloane St. London.S.W.” Good. $100 - 200 Lot 312

47 Items 315 - 316 - The "Queen's Auction"

of Denmark Queen Louise

Lot 315 315 SATIN BALL GOWN, QUEEN LOUISE of DENMARK, 1881 2-piece cream satin printed with polychrome roses embossed with velour and trimmed in pale apricot satin, back lacing bodice having ruched cap sleeve, wide V-neck with pleats and shoulder bows, deep front and back points; trained bustle skirt with apricot front Lot 316 panel having pleats and horizontal ruching, the overskirt with weighted side points, back pouf with large bows, long curved train backed with satin and pleated gauze with lace trim, inside ties. Tag states “Worn by Queen Louise of Denmark Wife of Frederick VIII of Denmark 317 MOIRE SILK GOWN and SLIPPERS with 318 SILK BROCADE DAY DRESS with ROYAL Daughter of Louise of Sweden”. Lot 139, ROYAL PROVENANCE, c. 1892 PROVENANCE, 1900 Christie’s, included copy of Christie’s catalog Ivory faille trimmed with pistachio silk satin Steel blue satin having darker blue and gold listing and photo. B-32, W-24, L 43-80. (Losses having day and evening bodices, the day bodice floral sprays on an abstract ground, high-neck to tulle around neckline, some trim removed, having over-the-elbow length sleeve puffed at boned bodice decorated with satin ruffles, cream corsages likely replaced, open seams and the shoulder with front and back point and bow lace bands and lace flower heads, trained skirt fraying to one shoulder, missing back laces, skirt detail, back-lacing off-the-shoulder evening with plain satin front panel flanked by lace and missing bow, few stains to front panel of skirt) bodice with with ruched cap, pleated satin ruffles, skirt lined in taffeta with small bustle good. $700 - 900 insert and bow details, trimmed in tulle, trained pad and hem ruffle. Lot 136, Christie’s Auction. skirt with satin center panel having large bows. B-38, W-30, L-45-64. (Scattered holes in wool 316 VOIDED VELVET GOWN with TWO Lot 140 at Christie’s Auction, B-36, W-30, L-45- hem binding) excellent. $600 - 800 BODICES, QUEEN LOUISE of DENMARK, 1885 64. (Green silk is shattering, minor soil and Pale gold and ivory velvet cut to cream satin faint stains to train, day bodice has scattered 319 LACE over SATIN GOWN with ROYAL with satin trim, front-lacing day bodice having pinholes), evening bodice has a few ink marks). PROVENANCE, 1903 3/4 cuffed sleeve with bow detail, deep front Matching green satin pumps with bow vamp Two-piece olive green silk, boned high-neck and back points, sleeveless back-lacing evening and bow strap across instep, 10 inches with a 1 bodice having long, full sleeve gathered into bodice, trained skirt with self ruffle to the satin 1/2 inch heel, (splits). Fair. $300 - 400 cuff, bodice overlay of black lace with an insert front panel, entire skirt hem backed with lace of cream embroidered net, back trimmed with ruffle. Lot 122, Christie’s Auction, petersham olive cording over small peplum; trained skirt label “Mode Bazar, Gerson & Co. Berlin”, B-34, having tucks and silk cord decoration, long W-22, L-43-83. (Trim likely removed, small spot train, taffeta underdress. Petersham label to evening bodice, two tiny dots and pulls to “Fanny Gerson, Wiesbaden”, B-38, W-32 L-46- day bodice, tip of stay starting to poke out by 62. (Skirt has sizeable pink stain to one hip and laces, small cord loops on back point suggest few smaller stains, small abrasion, underdress a missing bow, few small brown spots on skirt completely shattered, large underarm stains) back, some soil to the train) good. $800 - 1200 fair. $300 - 500

48 Lot 320

Lot 318

Lot 319

320 SILK and VELVET DRESS with ROYAL 322 BLUE-GREY STRAW WIDE-BRIM HAT, PROVENANCE, c. 1906 QUEENS AUCTION, c. 1908 Ribbed eau de nil 2-piece, the bodice with wired Oversized hat with large crown, velvet bow, Lot 321 high-neck net insert, short bell sleeve over decorated with cloth flowers in shades of pink balloon undersleeve cuffed in net, trimmed in and wine, includes custom mount. Label “L. darker green velvet and a self knot; trained skirt Leopold Emmelhainz Nachf/Wiesbaden”, lot with two wide velvet hem ruffles. Petersham 157, Christie’s Auction, possibly belonging to label “Bacharach”. Attributed to Elizabeth of Princess Marie Elizabeth of Wied of Schloss Romania. B-36, W-23, skirt L 45-55. (Net has Monrepos, Neuwied (b. 1880). 18 x 6. Excellent. large tears at shoulders, hidden tear under one $300 - 400 arm, silk bodice lining shattering, lacking skirt lining, hem edge wear, lacking sash) fair. $200 - 300 323 HORSEHAIR HAT with OSTRICH PLUMES, QUEENS AUCTION, c. 1890 321 WIDE-BRIM STRAW HAT with PEONIES, Black oval having flat crown and turned-up QUEENS AUCTION, c. 1908 brim, lined with ostrich plumes, silk lining. Beige with slightly turned-up brim and wide Label “L. Leopold Emmelhainz Nachf/ dented crown, underside having a band of pale Wiesbaden”, lot 157 Christie’s Auction, possibly pink satin, structured silk and tulle band with belonging to Princess Marie Elizabeth of Wied silk lining, decorated with pink and plum- of Schloss Monrepos, Neuwied (b. 1880). 10 x 15 colored peonies. Label “L. Leopold Emmelhainz x 4. Excellent. $200 - 300 Nachf/Wiesbaden”, lot 156, Christie’s Auction. 19 1/2 x 5.(Some losses to flowers, breaks to stems, silk lining fragile) straw excellent, overall good. $150 - 250 Lot 322

49 332 SILK and LACE CAPE, QUEEN VICTORIA, 1860 - 1880 White faille dolman trimmed with black lace and silk ribbons, net collar with bands of ruched ribbon edged in ruched chiffon, four black cord and button frogs, L-34. Mentioned in letter from Doris Langley Moore to Helen Larson, Doris Langley Moore letter: January 3, 1964, and on invoice of July 31, 1965, “All were bought by me from a purchased with other Victoria objects. (Two light stains and few small spots and tiny holes) good. niece of Mrs. Toogood, one of $300 - 500 theQueen Queen’s dressers and quite Victoria 327 TWO SILK TIPPETS and TWO MOURNING 333 MONOGRAMMED NIGHTGOWN, QUEEN beyond question”. The clothing VEILS, QUEEN VICTORIA, 1860 - 1890s VICTORIA, c. 1880 items are of the Queen’s size Twill tippets edged in black braid and having White cotton percale having lace collar and front three rows of black silk fringe at front ends, ruffle, long sleeve with a pair of tapered tucks during her elder years and one black, one white, the white mentioned above the lace cuff, monogram below the front conform to her taste. on invoice, black matches in materials and opening “VR” surmounted by crown over the construction, center-back W-7, L-22, (white number “36”. The Queen purchased lingerie tippet has few small splits at the back). One in large quantities which were numbered, 324 LOT of CLOTHING WORN by QUEEN small gauze oval veil with crinkled crepe border possibly to designate which residence they were VICTORIA’S CHILDREN, 1840s and fine cord ties, 15 x 16 1/2, (small hole). One intended for. B-64, L-54. Excellent. $400 - 600 Comprised of three silk dresses, DLM tag large bombazine square with wide satin border “Queen Victoria’s daughter”, two pink, one to four sides, 66 x 65, (few tiny holes. DLM tags. 334 MONOGRAMMED CHEMISE, QUEEN cream, B-24; boy’s white cotton dress, B-22; silk Good-excellent. $250 - 350 VICTORIA, 1890s and lace bodice with lavender trim tagged “The White cambric A-line having lace trim to the Princess Royal, Queen Victoria’s Daughter”, 328 CHANTILLY LACE PARASOL, QUEEN boatneck, shoulder and cap sleeve, two-button B-24; black velvet bodice with fancy cut steel VICTORIA, 1865 - 1875 closure to each shoulder, monogram “VR” and glass buttons, DLM tag “Queen Victoria’s Black lace over cream taffeta decorated with tiny surmounted by crown over the number “36”. Son Prince of Wales Edward VII”, B-24; three white beads, silk tassel, wood handle, lined in The Queen was known to purchase lingerie pair identical white cotton trousers, tagged cream China silk. Tag inked “Parasol belonging in large quantities which were numbered, “Queen Victoria’s son Prince Edward”, W-22; to Queen Victoria, provenance guaranteed”, possibly to designate which residence they were cream undershorts embroidered in red “A W DLM tag, appears in Larson photo with other intended for, B-66, L-34. (1-inch tear to lace on 12” surmounted by crown, W-21; Two cotton Victoria items. Diameter 24 x 25 long. (Few one sleeve) excellent. $300 - 500 dress shirts with pleated bib, Ch-32 and 34; Two splits to lining) otherwise excellent. $300 - 400 identical linen tunics with off-center crocheted 335 THREE PETTICOATS, QUEEN VICTORIA, buttons, one having red embroidered “L”, Ch-36 329 BLACK CORDED SILK PUMPS, QUEEN 1880s - 1890s and 42; two white cotton vests, Ch-22; and one VICTORIA, 1860s One cream twill having two self hem flounces cream silk drawn bonnet with ribbon trim and Black with pointed vamp decorated with a trimmed with white lace, drawstring waist bavolet, 8 x 12. (Minor spots or stains to a few double bow having an oval buckle, leather soles, adjustment at the back with silk ribbon, W-52, pieces, some trim removed from dresses) good- linen insole and partial kid lining. DLM tag, L-27, (several small seam separations). Two excellent. Includes copy of invoice from Doris mentioned in letter from Doris Langley Moore cream cotton lawn having shaped waistband Langley Moore. $1500 - 2000 to Helen Larson, January 3, 1964, and invoice of with two buttons, five tucks above hem with July 31, 1965. L-9 3/4. Excellent. $300 - 500 two narrow lace ruffles: one W-46, L-30, 325 THREE PAIR MONOGRAMED STOCKINGS, (yellowed, lacking button below the waist QUEEN VICTORIA, 1837 - 1850s 330 THREE SIMILAR SHAPED HATS, QUEEN closure); one having small red embroidered “V” All having monogram knit in the tops “VR” VICTORIA, 1880s near back closure, W-48, L-34, (lacking button surmounted with crown: One pair black with All having tapering crown and wide brim below the waist closure). All with DLM tags. cream toe and sole, tan clocks, number “4” turned up at the wired edge. Two with edge Good-excellent. $600 - 1000 below monogram, L-28, (small mend at top). and underbrim covered with ruched silk and One pair cream silk with lace at ankle, L-27, silk lining: One bone straw with cream gauze, 336 MONOGRAMMED SPLIT DRAWERS, QUEEN (scattered spots). One pair pink silk with pink black silk ties; one black horsehair with ruched VICTORIA, 1880s - 1890s clocks having the number “12” below the chiffon, label “Robert Heath, 25 St. George’s White cambric having back drawstring waist monogram and the letter “S” above, L-23. Good- Place, Hyde Park Corner”, 11 x 12 x 3 1/2. adjustment with white monogram “VR” excellent. Together with a pair of blue satin side- (Trim removed from both hats, wire brim edge surmounted by crown over the number “36”, lacing boots with low heel, 1840s, purported to partially exposed) fair. One black felt with brim the Queen was known to purchase lingerie be Victoria’s and sold in a lot of Victoria items, covered in pleated velvet, folded silk ribbon in large quantities which were numbered, label “Gundry & Son’s, Makers to the Queen”, band with bow and knotted silk tassels at back, possibly to designate which residence they were L-10. (Large tear to one, smaller splits to the decorated with black and white feathers, silk intended for, three narrow tucks at the hem. other, light stains) fair. $400 - 600 drawstring lining, includes custom mount, DLM DLM tag. W 45-54, L-26. Excellent. $600 - 1000 tag, 12 x 16 1/2 x 5, excellent. $200 - 300 326 FIVE PAIR GLOVES and BOX with CREST, 337 BLACK WOOL COAT, QUEEN VICTORIA, 1880s QUEEN VICTORIA, 1830s - 1860s 331 CROSS PENDANT with QUEEN VICTORIA Superfine wool with quilted black China silk One pair light brown suede elbow-length mitts, PROVENANCE, 1870s lining, two inset front pockets, original grebe L-14; one pair black mitts, L-11; two pair chenille Black early thermo-plastic with circular loop, feather trim removed giving coat an unfinished gloves, one taupe, one brown; one pair brown mentioned in letter from Doris Langley Moore appearance, single hook & eye closure at neck. wool gloves, all approximately L-7 1/2. Square to Helen Larson, January 3, 1964, and on Purchased from Doris Langley Moore, July white cardboard box with trim and crest in gold, invoice of July 31, 1965, purchased with other 1965, B-47, L-33. (Few moth holes at back hem, cross and three crowns on inside cover, c. 1850, 7 Victoria objects. 1 1/2 x 2 1/2. (Minor scratches) some hanging threads where trim previously x 8 x 1 1/2. $200 - 300 excellent. $200 - 300 attached) good. $200 - 300

50 Lot 332 Lot 337

Lot 334

Lot 338

Lot 336

Lot 335 Lot 326 Lot 329

Lot 324 Detail

Lot 322 & Lot 339

Lot 328

51 338 SILK 3-PIECE DAY ENSEMBLE, QUEEN 344 THREE PARASOLS, 1830s - 1850s 351 LACE PARASOL with CHINESE CARVED VICTORIA, 1900 One small carriage parasol in tan silk taffeta, IVORY HANDLE, 1860 Black broadcloth and crinkled chiffon folding ivory handle carved with rope and Black Chantilly lace over oyster taffeta having embellishments, peplum bodice having front tassel motif, D-19, L-23, (canopy very stained, finely carved folding ivory handle with tiny buttons flanked by pleated chiffon, chiffon splits, handle broken near tip of canopy).One floral, T-shaped finial with silk tassel. D-22, L-25. hem and trim to sleeve, two tiny welt pockets, carriage parasol with fully beaded top having (Some splits to lining) very good. $400 - 600 embroidered white cotton undersleeves; blue silk fringe and carved bone handle, D-15, matching jacket with frog closures and hemline L-24, (broken ribs, fringe losses) overall poor 352 SILK and LACE PARASOL with CARVED pockets; trained skirt having a wide shaped but beadwork in excellent condition. One with IVORY HANDLE, 1860s band of chiffon to the lower skirt, single patch blue/green changeable taffeta canopy having Fine cream needle lace scalloped canopy over pocket and side seam pocket, inverted pleats at scalloped edge with ruffled blue trim, carved lavender taffeta, folding wood and carved ivory the back. The bodice has a patch of white silk ivory handle with silver buckle detail and handle, D-22, L-23. Larson Collection tag inked sewn to lining, this was added to the Queen’s overlay glass knob, D-35, L-36., (splits to canopy “Mary T. Lincoln”, no provenance found. (Small garments so her staff could see when a garment and handle). All fair. $100 - 200 breaks to lace around finial) excellent. $400 - 600 needed cleaning. Tag attached inked “H.M. the Queen, Windsor Castle, 22-05-1900”, B-48, jacket 345 SQUARE SILK FOLDING PARASOL, 1840s 353 CHANTILLY LACE PARASOL with CARVED L-27, W-44, skirt L 31-42. DLM tag, mentioned Chestnut brown taffeta having striped fringe IVORY HANDLE, c. 1870 in letter from Doris Langley Moore to Helen set in a silk ribbon border, fringed around Black lace over cream taffeta faille having 3 January 1964, and on invoice 31 July 1965. ivory loop finial, painted wood handle, ivory folding handle pierced and carved with Excellent. $3000 - 5000 ring guard. 15 x 15, L-26. (Minor tearing to silk branchwork and black “R” monogram, carved lining) excellent. $300 - 500 finial. DLM tag indicates “R” from Rothschild 339 WOODEN HAT STAND with BEADWORK, family. D-23, L-26 1/2. (Chip in ivory ferrule) QUEENS AUCTION, 1908 346 FRINGED LACE PARASOL with JEWELED otherwise excellent. $400 - 600 Ebonized wood having polychrome floral HANDLE, 1845 - 1855 beadwork to the top and square base. 5 x 6 x 13. Fine handmade needle lace canopy with cream 354 SATIN PARASOL with INTERIOR of BLACK Purchased through Doris Langley Moore from and lavender striped fringe, ivory stem with and WHITE LACE, 1890s Christie’s auction July 11, 1967, lot 167 , listed enameled silver tip, ferrule, ring and handle set Crimson satin with painted wood handle with as “Property of a Lady”, many items in this sale with turquoise and faceted red stones, handle Dresden porcelain end, decorated with silk had royal provenance. (Minor wear and bead end having dog figure, silk lining. D-16, L-30. bows, lined in crimson chiffon having ruffles of loss) good. $150 - 250 (Small stain to lace, originally a folding parasol black chiffon embroidered with cream lace, tag made rigid with a later gold sleeve, significant indicates purchased from Doris Langley Moore 340 SQUARE LEATHER-TRIMMED TRUNK, 19th C enamel losses, some splits to interlining) lace and carried by Miss Veronica Turley (Mrs. James Cube-shaped with hinged lid covered in glazed excellent, overall good. $1200 - 1500 Laver) in plate LVIII of “Woman in Fashion”. canvas with leather trim. Doris Langley Moore “D-32, L-36. (Some splitting to satin, few small used trunk to ship Queen Victoria items to 347 IRISH CROCHET PARASOL with CARVED spots, chiffon tearing around tips) fair. $400 - 600 Helen, unable to ascertain if trunk is original to CORAL HANDLE, 1850 Queen Victoria or DLM storage. 19 1/2 x 20 x 20. Fine lace canopy over ivory faille with wide lace 355 TWO LACE PARASOLS, c. 1905 (Leather trim very worn, handle with shipping ruffle, bone stem having carved branch coral One cream machine-embroidered net over label detached but retained) fair. Note: Extra handle with dog heads, fruit and foliage, non- cream taffeta, trimmed with pink and blue shipping charges will apply to this lot. $50 - 100 conforming coral finial with grapevine, coral petals at tip and border, painted wood handle ring and chain, ribs tipped with carved coral with white ceramic terminus painted with 341 GOLDEN JUBILEE of QUEEN VICTORIA dog heads, silk lining. D-22, L-26. DLM tag. polychrome flowers, D-33, L-36. (Some losses to HANDKERCHIEF, 1887 (Tip of finial broken, small cracks and repairs to petals, ceramic cracked) good. One black chiffon Fine white linen souvenir embroidered to one handle, one branch tip broken off) very good. decorated with black soutache and black taffeta corner in a white arc “JUBILEE 1887” above $1000 - 2000 ruffles having ruffled chiffon border, black pink and white flowers and surmounted by red lacquered wood handle, D-36, L-37, very good. and white crown. 13 3/4 x 14. (Few small spots) 348 BLACK LACE PARASOL with CARVED IVORY $150 - 250 good. $100 - 200 HANDLE, 1850s Lace canopy over gold and cream taffeta layers 356 TWO FANS with PAINTED PAPER LEAF, 342 DIAMOND JUBILEE of QUEEN VICTORIA having metal stem with carved ivory finial and 1780 and 1855 HANDKERCHIEF, 1897 handle with roses and ring terminus. D-22, One having carved and gilt ivory sticks and Pink and white silk damask souvenir having L-23 1/2. (Both layers of silk very torn) lace and hand-painted leaf with lovers, cherubs, fruit repeating ribbons with “Victoria” and “1837 VR ivory excellent. $200 - 300 baskets and columns, etc., trees and flowers on 1897”, roses and crowns within a twill striped the reverse, pierced guards with figures, 19 x 10 border. 20 1/2 x 21 1/2. (Light stains) good. 349 SILK PARASOL with JEWELED and IVORY 1/2. (Minor splits along fold lines, some paint $100 - 200 HANDLE, 1850 - 1860 and gilding losses, glue marks on reverse leaf) Ivory taffeta decorated with bands of ivory satin good. One with mother-of-pearl sticks having 343 BEADED PARASOL with IVORY HANDLE, edged in folded satin points, ivory stem having floral pattern and reserves with crossed torch 1820 - 1840 silver metal handle, ring and finial set with and quiver of arrows, narrow painted paper Polychrome allover beaded canopy with turquoise and faceted red stones, D-20, L-23. leaf with figures in landscape and flowers and stylized floral on ivory ground, silk fringe, (Some splits to taffeta and silk lining, tip of finial similar reserves, 20 x 10 1/2. (Numerous splits delicate ivory handle, finial and rib tips. D-14, broken off) good. $300 - 400 to leaf, patched with glue and cellophane tape) L-22. (1/4-inch hole in canopy, finial detached fair. $250 - 350 from stem, fine crack in handle, possibly 350 TWO BLACK PARASOLS, 1850-1900 originally a folding handle reduced) handle fair, One having black lace over cream taffeta canopy 357 FOUR SMALL HORN FANS, c. 1815 - 1910 beadwork very good. $300 - 500 with carved ivory handle, D-20, L-24, (taffeta One having red and gold chinoiserie paint has large tears and mends, several tears to lace) decoration and red silk ribbon, 13 x 7 (paint canopy fair, handle excellent. One black floral losses). One having pierced and gilt-decorated Lot 359 jacquard taffeta with scalloped gold border sticks with pink silk and net leaf decorated and painted wood handle. Attached tag notes with gold embroidery and spangles, 13 x 7 1/2, “Daniel Webster family”, no provenance found. (small holes in net). One with paint-decorated D-28, L-30. (Small splits near tip of canopy, some green silk, net inserts and gold spangles with paint losses) good. $100 - 200 gilt sticks, 14 x 7 1/2. One having black silk leaf with silk ribbon flowers, embroidery and Lots 341 & 342 Detail spangles, 11 1/2 x 6 1/2. Good-excellent. $250 - 350

52 Lot 346 Lot 352

Lot 347

Lot 353 Lot 354

Lot 358

358 POINT de GAZ LACE FAN with MOTHER of 359 POINT de GAZ LACE FAN with MOTHER of PEARL STICKS, 1870s PEARL STICKS, 1890 Large fan with paint-decorated sticks, pierced Lot 359 Shaped sticks with embossed floral design, fine and gilt guards mounted with silver “B” lace leaf backed in ivory gauze, 21 x 11 1/2. monogram, fine lace leaf backed in gauze. (Splits and small holes to backing) very good. Larson tag indicates purchased in Paris, 1970, $250 - 350 attributed to Bonaparte family, no further provenance found. 26 x 14, includes silk-covered box. (One stick broken) otherwise excellent. $200 - 300

53 Lot 363

Lot 365

Lot 366

Lot 374

Lot 368 Lot 375

360 TWO PAIR SATIN ANKLE BOOTS, c. 1870 One pair green having button-up sides with 362 THREE PAIR LOW HEELED PUMPS with BOW 365 SUEDE BOOTS with CUTWORK, 1890s inverted scallops, large bow vamp with VAMP, 1880s Black ankle boots with cutouts backed in white polychrome satin-stitch floral embroidery, One pair russet satin, label “Marshall and kid, shaped vamp and scalloped facings. 9 1/2 includes custom mounts, label “Gundry 1 Soho Willats London”, L-10 inches, (few small worn x 7 with 3-inch heel. (One broken button, small Square”, 9 1/2 x 8 with 1 1/2-inch heel, (silk spots). One pair young lady’s claret satin with part of facings unglued) excellent. $400 - 600 splitting around top of one boot, worn spots, elastic strap having triple bow decoration, L-9 few tears, some buttonholes frayed, missing one inches, (few minor abrasions to heels). One pair 366 LADY’S SIDE-LACING BOOTS with button) fair. One pair black having side buttons red Morocco leather with silk bow, L-10 inches. TOPSTITCHING, 1890s with scallops, self bow with lace ruffle, top All ex-collection Doris Langley Moore. Good- Tan glazed leather with foldover top, pointed decorated with looped black cord and tassels, excellent. $300 - 400 toe topstitched in a series of diamonds, side paper note “Banning Family 1873”, 9 1/4 x 9 lacing with grosgrain ribbon, stacked wood with 1 1/2-inch heel, (minor wear and few small 363 TWO PAIR FAUX PEARL-BEADED SHOES, heel, silk facing, twill lining. Label “New York splits) good. $200 - 300 1895 - 1900. Store, Trilby, Indianapolis, Ind.” 9 3/4 x 7 1/2 Both white leather with Louis heel: One pair with 1-inch heel. (Wear and stains to toe tips, 361 TWO PAIR LADIES’ SHOES with LOUIS HEEL, lace-ups with lobed openwork vamp and ribbon tips frayed, minor soil and nicks) very 1870s embroidered silk ribbon ties, label “Edward good. $200 - 400 One pair cream silk with rounded toe having Hayes New York”, L-9 1/2 with 2 inch polychrome satin-stitch floral embroidered toe heel(ribbon laces shredded); one having 367 THREE PAIR LADIES’ BLACK OVERBOOTS, and large floral brocade double bow at vamp, teardrop cutouts, scalloped side with white 1870 - 1900 right shoe label “Ph. Herber 14 &16 Rue de glass buttons, label “Marshall Field and Co. Two pair velveteen with fur trim, grosgrain la Petite Pierre Paris”, left shoe having San Chicago Ill”, L-9 1/2 with 2 inch heel, (one ribbon ties and quilted lining, 10 x 9, (lacking Francisco retailer’s label, (silk splitting and button replaced) very good. $300 - 400 two ties), and 11 1/2 x 9. One pair figured silk repaired on sides, top of heel area torn, ink sleigh boots with triple ribbon ties trimmed writing inside one shoe, bows possibly not 364 LACING LEATHER SHOES with DOTTED in brown fur with white fur lining, includes original). One brown leather having rounded INSERTS, 1890 - 1895 custom mounts, 10 1/2 x 8. Good-excellent. toe and silk bow decorated with tiny copper Blue leather having pointed toe, laced through $350 - 550 beads, topstitched heel, silk binding, kid lining large white grommets, having scalloped cutouts and insole, illegible New York maker’s stamp on with canvas inserts embroidered with blue dots, sole, (one bow detached, minor bead losses, and kid lining and insole. Label “Edward Hayes, 9 scuffs, tear in leather to one shoe). Both L-9 with West 25th St. New York”. L-10 with 2-inch Louis 1 3/4-inch heel. Together with a pair of green heel. (Some wear, embroidery losses, browning linen shoe bags. Fair-good. $200 - 300 of canvas, laces frayed) good. $100 - 200

54 368 TALL LEATHER LACE-UP BOOTS, 1890s Black knee-highs having tapered toe, stacked heel and side laces with eleven grommets below speed laces, curved top with leather facing, cotton lining, 10 1/2 x 19 1/2 with 1 3/4-inch heel. Tag indicates boots were purchased in Paris in 1964. (Very minor tear along back seam) excellent. $200 - 400

369 FOUR PAIR LADIES’ LACING BOOTS, 1890s One pair cream with perforated design, label “Schuldenere Dry Good Co. Atlantic City”, 10 x 10 with 2 3/4-inch heel. One pair black side- lacing, label “Lagel Meier 352 Rue St Honoré Paris”, 10 3/4 x 11 1/2 with 2-inch heel. One pair cream with trefoil appliqué, 9 1/2 x 12 with 2 1/4-inch heel. One pair brown leather with pierced black patent trim having pointed toe and stacked 1 1/4-inch heel, label “Tyler Shoe Co. Los Angeles”, 10 1/4 x 7 1/2. (Some soil, nicks and scuffs, some damaged laces) good. $200 - 300

370 FIVE PAIR LADIES’ BOOTS, 1890 - 1910 Four black: One pair silk lace-ups (lacking laces, splits); three leather button-ups including one pair Harrod’s with scallops and perforation. One pair brown suede with perforated toe cap, stacked wood heel and buttons . Fair-excellent. $150 - 250

371 THREE PAIR HIGH-LACING BOOTS, 1890s All with Louis heel: One tan having stacked Lot 378 Detail wood heel, 9 1/2 x 10, (scuffs and spots); one light brown with shaped vamp and quarter, Union label, 10 1/2 x 11 1/2, (one missing aglet, Lot 379 leather lifting from underside of one heel); one pair brown with tiny perforation, 10 1/4 x 10 1/2, (missing one aglet). Good-excellent. $100 - 200 375 METALLIC BROCADE LACE-UP BOOTS, c. 1895 Cream canvas having allover metallic silver 372 THREE PAIR LADIES’ LACING SPECTATOR embroidery in a foliate pattern. Label “Thayer BOOTS, 1890s McNeil Company Boston”. 10 x 11 with 2 One pair grey suede and black leather with 2 3/4-inch heel. Includes custom mount. (Slight 3/4-inch Louis heel, 10 1/2 x 10 1/2, (scuffs). darkening of canvas, soil to heels, silver evenly One pair brown leather and wool with 2-inch tarnished) very good. $400 - 600 Lot 377 Detail stacked heel, 9 1/2 x 10, (scuffs and cracks to leather). One grey suede and brown leather, 376 FIVE PAIR LADIES’ PALE SATIN PUMPS, 1890 378 TAFFETA and CLUNY LACE BUSTLE GOWN, 1872 label “Marshall Field & Co.”, with 1 1/2-inch - 1910. Royal purple silk having a collarless, unboned stacked heel, 10 1/4 x 9, (some surface loss to Two pair cream with rhinestone buckles, the peplum bodice with polonaise, decorated at the suede, nicks and scuffs to leather. Good. $100 - 200 label “Hook Knowles & Co. Ltd., Makers to the cuff and hem with purple satin ribbons, lace and Royal Family, 66 & 65 New Bond St. London”; cut-steel buckles, full trained skirt with three 373 THREE PAIR LADIES’ SUEDE BOOTS, 1890s - 1900s one having embroidered toe; one blue with silk ribbon swags to the front with buckle and bow One pair sand brown lace-ups with perforated and chiffon rosette, maker illegible; one pink details above a wide ruffle. DLM tag indicates decoration, label “J. Glassberg Short Vamped with ribbon laces, label “John Wanamaker” (one dress was purchased in 1964. B-38, W-34, L Shoes 225 W. 42nd St. New York”, 9 x 10 1/2 lace missing); one pair pink with fancy beaded 44-56. (Bodice buttons possibly replaced, one with 3-inch heel. One pair grey lace-ups, label bow vamp, sole stamped “Cammeyer”, note in missing, two missing a cut-steel each, minor “Weatherby Kayber Shoe Co. Los Angeles”, one reads “Julia Butterfield” with additional tag darkening under arms, slight fading around 10 x 10 with 2 1/2-inch heel. One pair beige “McCormick”, possibly from an estate. L 9-10, buttons) excellent. $600 - 900 button-up style with Bakelite buttons and tiny heels 1 1/2 -2 1/2 inches, good-excellent. $300 - 500 perforations, label “L.S. Donaldson Co.”, 10 x 10 379 BUSTLED SILK ENSEMBLE, 1873 with 2 1/2-inch heel. Very good-excellent. $200 - 300 377 EMBROIDERED SILK RECEPTION GOWN, 1867 Royal purple faille trimmed throughout with 3-piece robin’s-egg blue faille decorated with white grosgrain ribbon, peplum bodice having 374 THREE PAIR LADIES’ SPECTATOR BOOTS, 1890s cream satin-stitch, tambour and french-knot pleated neckline with lace trim, pleated cuffs One tan wool and black patent leather with embroidery, bodice having long sleeve, prong- and bow details, ruched sides;trained skirt with laces, 9 1/4 x 8 with a 2 1/4 inch stacked heel set oval opalescent buttons; trained skirt with self swag over three bands of pleats, the back (toes abraded, ink marks on wool); one pair large embroidered repeats above the hem, deep, having vertical white ribbon inserts and pleated tan and brown leather with molded buttons, stiffened hem binding; small separate peplum ruffles, color suggests possibly mourning. B-36, 2 1/2 inch Louis heel, 10 x 10 (scattered small with embroidered waistband. B-32, W-24, L W-24, skirt L 44-70, worn by Miss Hermione scuffs); one pair black and white with mother- 42-60. (Skirt has alterations, waistband replaced, Gingold in “The Woman in Fashion”, 1949, of-pearl buttons and 2 1/2 inch Louis heel, label hem band reinforced with cotton fabric, several plate XXXVIII, page 88, purchased from Doris “Nihleen 38 West 47th Street, New York”, 10 x large splits to train, marked abrash, several Langley Moore. (Lace torn at back of neck, 11 1/2 (minor soil, ink mark). Good-excellent. holes along fold line in skirt front) bodice and one cuff unstitched, one bow pinned to cuff, $200 - 300 peplum excellent, skirt fair. $300 - 500 scattered seam separations) excellent. $1500 - 2000

55 Lot 381 Detail

Lot 380 Detail

Lot 382 Lot 384

380 TRAINED BUSTLE GOWN with HONITON LACE, 1870s 2-piece black satin having peplum bodice with Lot 383 low, square neckline and short sleeve, trimmed with self bows and bands of cream lace; skirt having center front lace panel flanked by pleats and lace bands, deep hem band, fancy and 382 EMBROIDERED TAFFETA BUSTLE DRESS, c. 1878 folded stitched pleats, ruched and stiffened 2-piece beige faille with peplum bodice having underskirts, hem is backed in pleated cream 3/4 sleeve, deep angled cuff embroidered in a gauze with lace edging. B-36, W-28, skirt L cream and beige satin-stitch floral with French 41-61. DLM tag, lot 400 from Christie’s auction, knots, trimmed in silk fringe, embroidered self May 28, 1970. (Tears to waistband, missing buttons flanked by scalloped bobbin lace bands, hooks & eyes, few breaks to lace, some wear to lace-trimmed band collar with bow; lavishly train) very good. $500 - 700 embroidered trained overskirt edged in fringe, underskirt with embroidered band and lace 381 OSTRICH FEATHER-TRIMMED BUSTLE border. B-34, W-24, L 41-59. (Skirt has scattered GOWN, 1876 light spots, patched 1/4-inch hole, edge of train 2-piece grey-faune taffeta faille, having long slightly soiled) excellent. $800 - 1200 384 TRAINED BUSTLE DRESS TRIMMED with sleeve peplum bodice with pleated collar and LACE and PEARLS, 1880 cuff, decorated with self bows, cream bobbin 383 FRINGED and PEARL-TRIMMED SILK BUSTLE 2-piece wine satin having a floral brocade in lace and feathers; trained skirt with vertical GOWN, c. 1879 two shades of grey, boned bodice with wired ruched panels to the front edged in feathers, Cream and gold floral brocade with gold and neck ruffle, fancy laces over shirred wine satin bustle back protruding through overskirt with cream satin, back-lacing cuirass bodice with flanked by pearl appliqués, elbow-length with two openings, ruffled hem and large bow detail. elbow-length sleeve, hidden front opening, appliquéd satin cuff, tabbed peplum with silk B-34, W-24, skirt L 46-60. Larson inventory c. edged in pearls and fringed at the hem with and pearl tassels; shirred satin skirt having 1970 states this gown was worn by Empress silk and pearl fringe, weighted back bow, brocade swag, trimmed in lace and pearls, Eugenie, Accession card says acquired from trained skirt with cream front panel having side bow, three self ruffles and two lace bands Lederman collection and “The gown is said asymmetrical tucks and fringe above a wide, at hem, back of skirt swagged over brocade to have been worn by the Empress Eugenie”. pleated hem band backed in lace. B-30, W-24, L with curved train, stiffened lining with pleated (Feathers are shedding, splits and stains to silk, 40-74. (Few broken and replaced pearls, pleated lace-trimmed ruffle, B-34, W-22, L-38-64. (Pearl large tear and stains to train, tarlatan removed ruffle on train has stains and holes, tip of train losses, lace torn on back swag, very minor edge from skirt) fair. $300 - 400 stained, age toning to underskirt) good. $700 - 900 wear to hem) excellent. $900 - 1200

56 Lot 387 Detail Lot 389 Detail

Lot 385

387 JET-BEADED VELVET ENSEMBLE, 1880s Midnight blue silk peplum bodice and trained bustle skirt decorated with floral bands worked in jet bugle and seed beads, skirt center panel Lot 386 flanked by large beaded moths, black satin and lace trim, train having zig-zag hem over silk pleats and pleated cream tarlatan with lace border. Petersham label “Lorden, Chicago”. B-32, W-24, L 41-57. (Clouding to beads, silk- covered buttons worn, some light marks to velvet from beads, overskirt lining torn around waist, few small holes in lace) good. $300 - 500

388 TRAINED SILK BUSTLE GOWN, c. 1887 Maize silk ottoman with panels of ivory and maize brocade, long sleeve bodice slightly puffed at shoulder, trimmed with fancy cordwork studded with steel beads, ostrich feathers, crystal beaded fringe and lace cuff, open skirt with train over underskirt decorated with metallic gold embroidery and mother- of-pearl sequins at the hem. Petersham label Lot 388 “Allebonel, Chicago. Ill.” B-32, W-24, L 58-74. DLM tag “Mackay Comstock”. (Some bead and 385 BEADED BROCADE WEDDING GOWN, c. 1879 386 FELIX BEADED and TRAINED BALLGOWN, 1880 sequin losses, mend to back of the neck trim, an Ivory silk in tone-on-tone floral brocade, 2-piece gown of chartreuse satin, cream floral inner ruffle to the underskirt is shattered) very lavishly decorated with white beads and brocade and pink taffeta, sleeveless boned good. $800 - 1200 beaded net with fringe, square neckline above bodice having a front panel of embroidered self buttons, beaded net sleeve, bustle skirt tulle with crystal beads and pink glass drops 389 BEADED SATIN WEDDING GOWN with having pleats flanking a net center panel with in a floral motif, asymmetrical overskirt opens LONG TRAIN, 1884 allover beaded decoration, long train hemmed at one side to reveal the pink taffeta underskirt Cream silk having long bodice with 3/4 lace with a series of pleated ruffles below a fancy with beaded tulle panel. Petersham label “Felix sleeve, lace-covered shawl collar with white, braided and beaded rope band. Petersham Breveté, Paris”. Displayed at Monsanto’s 1965 crystal and pearl beads, sawtooth edge trimmed label “Sharpless & Sons, Chestnut & 8th St, Disneyland exhibition, “Fabrics and Fashions in large pearls, pleated back pouf, button front, Philadelphia”. B-34, W-22, L 57-101. (Spot on Through the Ages” where it was purported to skirt having tulle apron front with curved rope band, net sleeves torn, one underarm have been worn to Garfield’s inaugural ball, bands of ruffles, hem trimmed with pleated torn and the other repaired, bodice front petersham inked “Inaugural Ball”. B-36, W-30, ruffles and lace, train edged in folded pleats and point altered, ruffle backing the train torn and L-60-84. (Underskirt is shattering, bead losses, backed with lace-trimmed tarlatan ruffles, skirt browned, bead losses). Together with a pair of seam separation and some mended seams, backshaped with inside tapes, tape in bodice embroidered satin wedding shoes with bow satin possibly replaced, light stains on satin, inked “TA COLE 1884”. B-32, W-23, L 40-80. vamp and Louis heel having custom mounts, train edge tiny hole and soil) underskirt poor, (Few tears in lace, snaps added to collar, several Philadelphia label, L-10, (bindings torn at the otherwise good. $1500 - 2000 buttons replaced, skirt back waist unpicked) back). Good. $500 - 700 very good. $700 - 900

57 Lot 394 Detail

Lot 390 Lot 392

392 18th C-STYLE MARIE ANTOINETTE FANCY- 394 LONDON LABEL FIGURED VELVET COAT, 1880s 390 ENGLISH TRAINED CUT VELVET and SATIN DRESS COSTUME c. 1885 Blue velvet cut to two depths in a large-scale GOWN, c. 1883 Court dress with overtrain in aubergine floral to blue satin, decorated with fancy gold Russet velvet cut to blush in a stylized floral, gros-de-tours having gold paint specks, braid and tiny beads, the band collar and cuff trimmed with blush satin, short-sleeve bodice scattered tiny embroidered flower sprigs and trimmed in cream lace, back waist having having bow details, squared neckline trimmed bands of embroidered flowers intertwined beaded and gold cord tassels, copper satin in pleated tulle, self buttons, asymmetrical with handmade cream lace, the dotted train lining. Petersham label “Alice Mason London”. drape pleated to one side above satin drape with is embroidered deeply around the sides and B-32, W-24, L-51. Exhibited at the Melbourne ruched rosette, box-pleated satin skirt front, bottom, pannier overskirts with lace and floral Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. long train over satin pleats, dusty rose accordion swags above an insert of cream silk embroidered (Petersham reduced and covered in satin, pleats and tarlatan underskirt with two lace- with a wide band of flowers; reconstructed obscuring label, two repairs to lining, minor trimmed pleated hem ruffles. Petersham label back-lacing bodice with lace ruffles and paint edge wear and seam separations) excellent. “Mrs. Lumsdon. . . London”, B-36, W-26, L 58- decoration made by Janet Arnold in 1991, $750 - 850 81. (Tulle trim torn, minor spot and small splits gown was originally attributed to Marie on sleeve, soil and spots at hem, two tiny holes Antoinette, dating from the 18th C, worn as a 395 PARIS LABEL BEADED PLUSH DOLMAN, c. in satin drape, minor seam separation) very Marie Antoinette costume in the late 19th C. 1885 good. $500 - 700 Lot includes cotton 18th C-style hoops made by Plum silk with stand collar heavily Janet Arnold to accompany the costume. B-34, decorated with a lattice of metallic gold cord, 391 BEADED SATIN WEDDING/ PRESENTATION W-26, skirt L-40, overskirt CBL-88. (Skirt has beads,embroidered swags and elaborate beaded GOWN, c. 1885 modern lining, small repair, waist ties replaced, and fringed ball tassels, mauve silk lining. 2-piece cream satin decorated with white beads, embroidery losses, minor holes in lace fade Label “L. Hetenaar Paris”. L-42. Exhibited at the pearls and lace, bodice having boatneck and lace marks hidden in folds of overskirt) current Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, cap sleeve with fancy pearl tassels, elaborate incarnation very good. $1500 - 2500 1991. (Significant and continuing bead losses, trained skirt with side drape, front panel of gold some beads and three detached tassels retained) satin covered in heavily decorated tulle flanked 393 BEADED PLUSH DOLMAN, 1885 good. $300 - 400 by lace panels. Alterations possibly to wear Plum silk heavily decorated with gold beads, at court, DLM tag. B-34, W-24, L 38-62. (Some silk and beaded tassels, stand collar, hook & eye 396 PARIS LABEL BEADED WOOL and SILK holes in tulle, minor bead losses, minor seam closures, two fancy braided silk swags adorn ENSEMBLE, 1890 separation, train soiled, few dark stains and hole the front, silk twill lining, B-34, L-54. Exhibited Long beige wool jacket lavishly decorated with near hem). Good. $300 - 500 at the Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque rays of crystal beads, having puffed upper d’Elegance”, 1991.(Significant and continuing sleeve of silk Bengaline, narrow beaded wool bead losses, bag of beads attached, one swag cuff, stand collar, fringed at the waist with button & loop closure broken) fair. $300 - 500 long strands of beads, silk twill lining; trained silk skirt having padded hem with tucks, taffeta lining with hem ruffle. Petersham label “Madame Ludinart Paris”. B-36, W-28, skirt L 38-55. (Jacket enlarged at sides, bead losses- particularly to the fringe, few faint brown spots, small holes in train, hooks & eyes mis-aligned, seam separation on underskirt) good. $300 - 500

58 Lot 395 Lot 398

397 BLACK LACE CAPE with FANCY STAND 400 BEADED SILK and VELVET EVENING GOWN, 1890 COLLAR, 1890 2-piece cream silk jacquard having short-sleeve Floral embroidered lace on net over eggshell bodice decorated with turquoise velvet, wired Lot 404 satin and pleated chiffon, having a tall collar of bows and satin ribbon having a floral pattern in petal shapes edged in ruched black and cream black, gold and cut-steel beads, silver sequins chiffon, front opening edged in pleats, pleated and pearls, velvet waistband with center 403 PARIS SILK and LACE GOWN, MARY ties, scalloped hem ruffle edged in black chiffon, turquoise and rhinestone oval pin, separate ELIZABETH DEPREE, 1890s L-43. (Scattered holes in net, some splits in velvet collar; trained skirt pleated at center back Ivory silk printed with pink roses, bodice lining) good. $400 - 600 with velvet hem band, lined in cream taffeta having an overlay and long sleeve of cream with hem ruffle and a pair of center back ties. Honiton lace with embroidered lace appliqués, 398 PARIS SILK JACKET with PEARLS, FEATHERS Petersham and waistband labels “Mrs. Cuttle, trained printed skirt with an overlay of tulle and CORDING, c. 1892 Bradford”. B-36, W-25, L-40-46. (Minor bead figured with small flowers, lace and embroidery, Ivory bengaline having over-the-elbow length losses, pin missing one stone, velour shows hemmed with a band of rose-pink velvet, sleeve puffed at the shoulder with appliqués minor edge wear, minor stain on side of skirt, covered rope hem band. Petersham label “Mme. of net with pearls, white beads and cordwork, splits to skirt below waistband and to lining) Lévilion, 14 Rue de Rome, Paris”. Christie’s trimmed with white feathers, chiffon and pearl good. $300 - 500 auction tag “15 July 1986 16/4” Auction catalog fringe, open at center back beneath large bow 401 SATIN BALLGOWN with MATCHING describes ensemble: This... belonged to Mrs. detail. Petersham label “Madame Cuper, 245 SLIPPERS, c. 1890 Depree, wife of Colonel C. G. Depree, Surveyor Rue St. Honoré, Paris”. B-32, Sh-12, W-24, L-30. 2-piece dotted eggshell silk lightly brocaded General of India toward the end of the last (Minor fringe and feather losses) very good. with floral sprigs in pastel hues, back-lacing century, sister of Lord Haig, and grandmother $300 - 400 long sleeveless bodice having ruched chiffon of the present owner, this particular dress is over pink silk neck insert, armhole trim and believed to have been sent out to India for a 399 LONDON TRAINED WEDDING GOWN and hem, trained skirt gathered at the back, stiffened Viceregal Ball at the Peterhof in Simia, “, B-40, ACCESSORIES, c. 1890 underskirt with pleated hem band edged in W-30, L-35-57. (Small holes in tulle, age toning Ivory silk having fancy-weave and brocade lace. B-32, W-22, L 42-53. (Minor stains to back and several tears to lace, scattered small stains) peplum bodice with long sleeve, satin collar of train, tears to chiffon, lace torn). Matching good. $500 - 700 embroidered with pearls, chiffon trim, trained embroidered silk pumps with bow vamp, label satin skirt embroidered with pearls in a “Marshall and Willats Oxford Street” 10 inches 404 SATIN BROCADE GOWN with LACE and pattern of large, stylized bell flowers, huge with 1 3/4 inch Louis heel (some wear and soil). BEADS, c. 1895 brocade cathedral train, padded to the side Together with two pieces matching silk and Ivory satin with a serpentine floral brocade in edges and hem, backed in satin and edged in chiffon, probably from a back bow or streamers. yellow and lime, back-lacing bodice having pinked ruffles. Petersham and waistband label DLM tag indicates Doris purchased for Helen at short, puffed green velvet sleeve, insert and trim “Russell & Allen Robes de Bal”. Purchased from Sotheby’s 23 April 1965. Shoes good, dress very with bands of tulle decorated with glass and Doris Langley Moore in 1963, copy of invoice good. $400 - 600 gold beads, gilt metal pansies and lace ruffles, included. B-29, W-20, L 39-54, train L-84. (Collar hook & eye closures, trained skirt with self bow split and half detached along with a chiffon 402 RE-STYLED SILK FLORAL BROCADE GOWN, 1893 at waist, beaded band, lace ruffle and velvet pouf, some pearl losses, very minor stains at Cream with gold brocade, long sleeve bodice ribbon edge to hem. Petersham label “Whimp, back waist, skirt has numerous splits). Together trimmed in ecru embroidered net lace, a panel of Leeds”. Larson inventory attributes dress to with a crescent hair ornament with ostrich satin embroidered with roses has been added to Princess Alexandra, no further provenance plume, kid opera-length gloves, silk stockings the bodice, obscuring the self buttons matching found as to the Princess of Wales, as wearer. with lace, a pair of satin pumps with bow vamp the front panel of the trained skirt. B-34, W-26, B-36, W-26, L 56-70. (Skirt lining shattering, decorated with tiny beads, (hole at the top of skirt L 41-55. (Some tearing to waistband) very some small tears to tulle trim, 1/2 inch tear to one stocking, some wear to shoes). Skirt-fair, good. Lot includes a length of embroidered net, velvet V-neck) very good. $600 - 900 train-excellent, bodice and accessories good- possibly intended to replace browned lace on excellent. $300 - 500 bodice. $300 - 400

59 Lot 405 Lot 406 Lot 407

Lot 408 Lot 409

60 405 SILK FAILLE GOWN with EMBROIDERED FLORAL and LACE, c. 1897 409 WORTH BEADED VELVET GOWN, c. 1898 Pale yellow moiré, bodice and trained skirt 2-piece red-violet trained gown, semi-boned having a panel of white satin embroidered bodice having crossed front and back panels with pink and yellow roses, large appliqués over hidden back laces, cream tulle inserts of lace scattered with brilliants, flanked in to front and back neckline and short, puffed Carrickmacross lace, bodice having ruffled sleeve, the sleeve having a beaded appliqué chiffon sleeve and trimmed with white beads from the shoulder worked in red violet beads and gold cord. Petersham label “Delbarre, and paste jewels with tassels, an appliqué Elizabeth Street, 73. Eaton Square”. DLM tag, off-center at front waist, trained skirt worn by Mme. Elisabeth Schwarzkopf, with faux wrap front, slightly plate LXXII in Doris Langley gathered into a fourth Moore’s “The Woman appliqué. Petersham in Fashion”, 1949. B-40, label “C Worth”, W-26, L 44-52. (Seam client number in skirt separation, tears and holes “66932”. B-40, W-24, L in chiffon, missing a bow at 45-60. (Two small splits neckline, third chiffon ruffles along seams on bodice, removed from sleeve but retained, waistband replaced, taffeta some discoloration to skirt back, small hem backing to underskirt is spots, bead losses, hem edge soiled and shattered, dress size reduced, some worn, age-toning to lace, lining shattered) tearing to tulle backing on sleeve appliqués) good. $400 - 600 Lot 410 very good. $2500 - 3500 406 GUSTAVE BEER SEQUINED BALLGOWN, c. 1898 410 WORTH LACE JACKET with SEQUINS and 2-piece cream satin having off-the-shoulder JET, 1890s bodice decorated in tulle floral appliqués with Black appliqué lace-on-net concertina pleats silver sequins, diamante and faceted glass studs, with batwing sleeve having a purple velvet trumpet-flared skirt with long train having collar with jet tassels, the shoulder having a trailing floral with chiffon details, stiffened capelet of cream chemical lace beneath a black gauze underskirt. Label “G. Beer Place de beaded and sequined pelerine with fringe. Label l’Opéra, Paris”. B-40, W-26, L 42-60. (Decoration “C. Worth” over tape stamped “20902”. L-32. is falling off gown, bag of sequins and diamante (Some browning of net caused by beads, bead retained, tears to the waistband, small brown losses, clouding to jet, large tears to pelerine) spots at top of skirt, small green marks left by fair. $300 - 500 sequins, several small splits to skirt, train soiled) fair. $800 - 1000 411 PINGAT VELVET CAPE with NET OVERLAY, 1890 Fingertip-length ribbed pink velvet having an 407 LACE TRIMMED SILK DRESS, c. 1899 overlay of black net with soutache decoration 2-piece lilac moiré faille with cutwork and and jet beads trimmed with black moiré, silk appliqué of black lace, bodice having long ribbons and a fringe of leaf-form sequins, pink sleeve shaped with tucks and ruffled cap, and ivory silk brocade lining. Petersham label pleated cream chiffon insert within a velvet “Emile Pingat 30. Rue Louis le Grand 30. Paris”. lapel, band collar with back ruffle, trained skirt L-22. (Jet beads discolored, significant sequin over taffeta underskirt ruffled at the hem, B-42, losses, wear to moiré, silk frayed on cording, W-34, L-41-49. Larson tag with notation “Jane minor breaks to net) fair. $300 - 400 Paris 6-66”, purchased in Paris. (Silk backing to chiffon insert shattered, chiffon separated from 412 KASHMIRI WOOL PAISLEY WAIST-FRONT binding beneath waistband, few small tears in CAPE, c. 1890 waist area, small hole in lower skirt back) good. Fashioned from a hand-embroidered Indian $350 - 550 shawl in polychrome wool, having stand collar and attached back-lacing waistcoat with large 408 PINGAT TRAINEDWOOL DRESS with hook closures, decorated with a tabbed border APPLIQUE, c. 1890 yoke, front opening and hem, fancy black cord Cream felted wool appliquéd with bands appliqués and corded tassels, tasseled closure, of cutwork linen corded in a raised pink, lower back inset of pleated black faille, lined in yellow and green floral, puffed elbow-length gold silk twill with two interior patch pockets. sleeve pleated into channel stitching edged in DLM tag, L-60. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art embroidered buds and having a lace ruffle cuff, Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Some embroidered net high-neck insert, off-center wear to cordwork, one side slit is missing a tassel) front closure hidden beneath appliqué. Label very good. $800 - 1200 “E. Pingat, 30. Rue Louis le-Grande. 30, Paris”. Janet Arnold 1969 cataloging notebook “said to have been worn by Yvette Guilbert”, B-34, W-22, L 60-70. (Replaced underdress, surface moth damage, two tiny holes in skirt, few minor holes in lace, minor soil) very good. $1800 - 2200

Lot 412

61 413 MIDDLE EASTERN METALLIC EMBROIDERED 417 THREE BONNETS with PRESSED VELVET 418 TWO WIRED BONNETS worn by JULIA CAPE and VEST, 1890s DECORATION, 1880s. BUTTERFIELD, 1890 Cream wool felt vest heavily decorated with One fine brown straw having tall brown velvet One with ivory silk ruffles and cloth lilies of the couched gold embroidery, the front having brim, dented crown with red, brown and valley, a cream rosebud and green velvet bows, raised quatrefoils and two tassels, edged in green ribbons, black lace, pressed velvet leaves Paris label, interior note inked “I wore this metallic braid and embroidered balls with and cloth flowers, 9 x 9 x 4 1/2, (some wear). bonnet when on a private visit to the Empress red bead finials, gold silk lining and metallic One wired frame having black netting, blue of Russia at Petershoff Palace in 1890. Mrs lace facing, cape L-14, vest B-32. Larson tag and mauve velvet ribbon, covered in pressed Julia L. Butterfield”. She visited Russia after “Pres. Harrison, Gross”, possibly who Helen velvet and wired cloth leaves and white her 1886 wedding in London. 6 1/2 x 8 purchased it from, no other provenance found. flowers, label “Marie Beaton & Cie., 1/2. (Flowers slightly darkened) Matching cape in spruce blue with cream trim, London”, 7 x 7 x 4, (some losses very good. One black net high stand collar, similar decoration, green silk to leaves). One purple wool outlined with black sequins lining, cape L-23. (Some tarnish, worn spot in and velvet with ribbon and jet beads, draped cape collar lining, missing button at neck, few and pressed velvet in black velvet and small holes) good. $200 - 400 pansies, metallic gold embroidered in cord and sequins, black chenille, front 414 RARE GREEK EMBROIDERED MOTHER and 6 1/2 x 8 1/2 x 4, draped in knotted TWO DAUGHTERS DRESS SET, c. 1890 (minor edge wear). pink velvet with Cream hand-decorated with red cross stitch Together with an pink ostrich embroidery: Mother’s dress of silk ottoman openwork beaded plume, label trimmed in white chiffon, crystal beads and green velvet bonnet “Heitz Boyer, pearls, having short sleeve with red silk with velvet bow Paris”, described undersleeve and trained skirt, petersham label and rosettes, 9 x 10 in Larson “Brown, Holmes & Co. Chester”, B-36, W-30, L x 3, (some wear to inventory and 62-102. (Some spots, bead losses, some tears and underside velvet). Janet Arnold 1969 soil to chiffon, hem and train have edge wear Good-excellent. $300 notebook with Julia and soil). Daughters’ dresses of cotton with faux - 500 Butterfield notation, crocheted buttons and off-center hidden button 8 x 9 x 2 1/2. (Some closure, tucked back flaring into pleats, B-26, Lot 413 Detail browning, clouding to jet, L-31 and B-28, L-34. (Soil and light spots, few losses to feather hidden buttons missing or replaced, smaller and sequins) dress lacking bow at neck). All good. $1200 - 1800 good. $250 - 350

415 TWO EMBROIDERED BODICES, 1900s 419 FOUR One white lawn with back buttons and waist SMALL WIRED ties, having allover tucks, the front, back and BLACK HATS with upper sleeve inset with floral embroidery DECORATION, and crocheted fillings, narrow crocheted cuff, 1890s B-36, L-21, (two tiny spots on one sleeve, small Two silk: One mend to the lower back). One boned cream silk with black sequins having an ivory tulle overlay with sheer sleeve over velvet having and tucked, high collar, lavishly embroidered red cloth flower with floral swags, ribbons and vines, back border and black having pleated tulle yoke and hook & eye ostrich plumes, closures, DLM tag, B-36, L-25, (tears to chiffon label “Louise & collar lining and tulle edging, few tiny black Co. Milliners, spots on embroidery). Very good. $250 - 350 New York”, 7 x 7; one having bands 416 COTTON BLOUSE, 1895 - 1897, worn by of matte black KATHERINE HEPBURN sequins and fancy Yellow cotton with high neck and leg-o-mutton metallic gold cord, sleeves having white banded trim to collar, black, yellow cuff and button placket, white neck tie with and green cloth embroidered circles. . B-36, L-19. Invoice from flowers, wired Doris to Helen: “Lemon yellow blouse with sequined net stiff collar” (this was one which Katherine ornament, feather Hepburn used for African Queen tests), was and bow, 5 1/2 x copied for the actress “though it was somewhat 7. Two with open earlier than the film but she greatly liked it”. crown and jet Together with a wide-brim Panama hat, 1911, Lot 414 beads: One straw with concave crown having a gathered band of wide-brim, with picoted copper silk ribbon, quilted tan cotton dotted tulle and twill lining. 18 x 3 1/2. (Lining wire partly cloth flowers, 12 x 3, (breaks to straw around missing) excellent. Hat was copied in triplicate brim edge); one having openwork brim and for the film, purchased from Doris Langley triangular beaded band, Diameter-8 1/2. Fair- Moore, fashion consultant for the movie. very good. $200 - 300 Excellent. $400 - 600

62 420 THREE WIRED HIGH-BRIM HATS, 1890s 424 FOUR WIDE-BRIM STRAW HATS with 427 FOUR LADIES’ VELVET HATS, 1890 - 1905 One having concentric bands of scalloped FLOWERS, 1890s Two wide-brim: One deep blue having draped cream lace, the underbrim banded in rose, One oval with short, flat crown, wired black wide crown and feathers, 14 x 16, (red trim and decorated with brown velvet and metallic gold lace bow, black silk band, cloth roses, silk lining, under-brim not original, edge wear, lacking ribbon with pink silk roses, 11 x 12 1/2 x 2 1/2, label “Estelle”, 13 x 14 x 2, (losses to flowers, lining) fair; one black with black and white (metallic ribbon is tarnished, scattered small brim edge unstitched). One wavy brim with ostrich plumes and ornament of four faceted brown spots on lace). One wired straw pancake over cloth flowers, black paillettes edged in white beads, DLM straw with brim wrapped under-brim having flowers and straw tag, 17 x 15, (lining destroyed, brim edge wear) in black lace having open bow, gold cord and black velvet trim and good. One small brown pancake decorated with crown with horsehair and streamers, tag indicates purchased by Doris pressed velvet and taffeta leaves with large satin insert of black net with Langley Moore, 9 x 9 1/2 x 2, (some bow, 9 x 8, good. One black with small gathered sequins, under-brim stains to foliage). Two with shallow brim, decorated with black jacquard ribbon and covered in tulle, crown: one flat top decorated cloth violets, 9 x 4, very good. $150 - 250 label “Madame with bone ribbon with drawn Windelbank”, threads, white flowers, silk 428 FOUR LADIES’ BEAVER HATS, 1882 - 1914 13 x 9 x 10 1/2, lining, 13 x 2, (streamers torn, One brown trilby having narrow braided fur (some tearing minor browning, spits to lining); band with knot, blue silk lining, 9 x 11 x 6, to tulle). One one Panama with inset crown having (feathers removed). Three black: One turned- ivory straw woven blue ribbon band and streamers, floral up triangular brim, wide grosgrain band with in scalloped bands, corsage, 12 x 2. Fair-very good. $250 double fan pleats, grosgrain binding, 11 1/2 decorated with - 350 x 13 x 4, (lacking lining). One wide, crushed red and lilac cloth Lot 432 crown with small turned-up brim and large flowers, black velvet ribbon, 13 425 FIVE STRAW BONNETS with sequined flower, label “Marshall & Snelgrove x 15 x 4, (some tears to flowers and FLOWERS, 1890s Harrowgate”, 11 x 14 x 5, (minor losses). One breaks in straw, holes in mesh of One black straw with brown wide brim with small flat crown and ostrich lower brim). Fair-good. $150 - 250 ribbons, cream lace and cloth plumes, velvet under-brim, silk lining, 16 1/2 x violets, (tears to lace and some 2, (some fading to feathers). Good. $200 - 300 421 FIVE BONNETS with flowers). One light brown FLOWERS, 1890s straw over velvet with wired 429 SEVEN ASSORTED LADIES’ HATS, 1885 - 1920 One black wired net with gold lace and brown and orange Unlabeled brown fur; “Diehl & Libby” black fur; embroidery, velvet bow, flowers, ribbon flowers, (some edge wear, “Pancoast” salmon velvet and grey fur with side and lace. One knotted black straw with browning to leaves). One bows; red felted wool cloche with wired plum green velvet ribbon and cloth ferns, brown fancy-weave velvet brim and bow; ruched brown velvet label “Hoban & Cross.” One wired net trimmed in brown silk having self bow; “Modes Paris-New York” navy with black lace ruffles, pink flowers and wired velvet bow felt and velvet with yellow trim, self bow and and jet berries. All approximately decorated with copper nacre buckle; “Haynes” ruched cranberry velvet 6 x 7. (Some trim losses, clouding iridill beads, feathers having a bow of fancy cranberry and ivory silk of jet beads, gold ribbon torn). Two and yellow flowers, ribbon. Fair-excellent. $100 - 200 straw: One wired woven green raffia (glue residue to lining). decorated with black lace and cerise One having lilac sil-k 430 SHELL and IVORY ENVELOPE PURSES, c. roses, 8 x 5; one tan fancy-weave under-brim and velvet 1830 and 1920s over brown velvet having wired band, decorated with lilac Both leather bellows bags with applied panels: brown silk bows, gold flowers, velvet chiffon and tiny white The earlier of shaped brown leather with red ties and lace lappets, 7 x 3 1/2. (Both flowers, silk and chiffon velvet top having front, back and lid panels minor losses to flowers). Good. $300 - Lot 433 Detail ties, DLM tag, (scattered of natural shell, twin leather handles, printed 500 holes in chiffon and silk ties). One paper lining, label “Henry Chatwin’s Registered having shaded chenille embroidery to the brim, Reticule”, 4 x 6, (latch broken, missing clasp 422 TWO INTERESTING STRAW HATS, 1890 & 1907 decorated with brown velvet ribbon, velvet element, light wear). One black Moroccan with One black wired openwork brim with red roses and green feathers, under-brim backed in curved flap, the front having pierced carving of geranium flowers, small flat crown, sheer mesh black velvet, (lacking lining). Largest 8 x 10 x 4. various figures and floral decoration, top strap, bow with satin stripe, underbrim trimmed Good-excellent. $250 - 350 divided interior with a center snap pocket, 4 x with geraniums, large hatpin, label “Madame 6, (ivory cracked, leather faded, clasp broken). Pouyanne, Rue des la Paix, Paris”, 11 x 12 x 4, 426 FOUR LADIES HATS, 1890 - 1905 Both fair. Together with a bronze velvet pouch (some fading to upper flowers, minor breaks). One midnight blue crushed and pleated velvet having celluloid hinged lid with pushback clasp One natural braided toque in an openwork having orange silk band with ostrich feathers, and filigree collar over long fringe of bronze sawtooth pattern having flat crown and two label “Carson Pirie Scott & Co., Chicago”, 10 x 3, iridill beads and beaded bottom tassel, 3 x 10, braided self flowers, underbrim decorated with (feather losses). One cream plush having turned- (some fringe losses, relined) good. $100 - 200 black velvet bands, label “Damson & Hubbard, up brim and white veil with black chenille dots, Boston”, 13 x 11 x 5, (remnants of shredded silk 10 x 10 1/2, (holes in veil). One black velvet 431 HINGED-LID LEATHER SEWING CASE, 1850 - 1870 lining). Both very good. $250 - 350 wide-brim having tiny, flat crown covered in Flattened barrel form with double-hinged lid, black and red chenille ribbon, brim edged in stamped and decorated with brass footed frame 423 THREE WIRED and FLOWER-TRIMMED HATS, ruched black chiffon, 13 x 2. One taupe plush and studs, double chain handle, the interior 1890s wide-brim with flat crown trimmed in brown fitted for sewing accessories, 3 1/4 x 5 x 2 1/2. One black velvet with wired Chantilly ornament velvet and copper satin ribbon with large hat (Few nicks to leather, pincushion in lid torn and lillies of the valley, faceted jet ornament, pin, 15 x 5, (small hole in velvet, wire missing away, some spots to silk lining) very good. $100 - 200 black velvet streamers, 9 x 5, (break in the from part of bow, lacking a lining, minor losses ornament). One covered in hairpin metallic gold to plush). Good-excellent. $150 - 250 432 METALLIC EMBROIDERED BAG with cord, with black satin bows, pink flowers and TASSELS, 1870s wired cream lace, label “John Simpson, Milliner Turkish-style black velvet drawstring pouch Guildford”, includes custom mount, 8 x 6. One having a parapet top with heavy metallic gold covered in black tulle and jet, edged in cloth cord decoration, silk drawstring with ball finials, violets, pink bow, (some clouding of stones), 7 x side and bottom tassels with sequins, silk lining, 6. Good-excellent. $250 - 350 DLM tag dated the bag as late 17th C, museum research has it as 1870s, 8 x 6. Excellent. $200 - 300

63 433 TWO HINGED-LID METAL MESH PURSES, 439 GENTLEMANS CHECKED WOOL COAT with 1890s ATTACHED CAPE, 1890s Diminutive silver mesh with ball fringe, chain Brown and black long coat with narrow double chatelaine handle, mirrored filigree lid and kiss breast flaned by smile pockets above pockets clasp: The larger having turquoise sets, 3 1/2 x with flap, removeable elbow-length capelet, 5, (chatelaine clip missing, lining very torn), the composition buttons, plaid wool lining. Label smaller having colored glass and polychrome "Wanamaker, Chestnut St. Phila". Helen's typed enameled sets with a butterfly motif, DLM tag, note "Governor Sproul's coat and hat...Worn by 2 1/2 x 3, (fringe losses, lining removed). Good. Governor Sproul of Pennsylvania in the 1890s..." $200 - 300 Ch-44, Sh-18, Slve-25 1/2, L-53. (Buttons re- sewn, missing top two, one detached mend 434 FRENCH REVIVAL PURSE with GOLD hidden by cape, striped silk sleeve linings very THREAD and SPANGLES, c. 1910 torn) good. $500 - 700 Navy blue satin pouch with scalloped top having metallic gold cord embroidery and 440 MAN’S WOOL 3-PIECE SUIT, 1900 gold, silver and iridescent spangles with swags, Heavy black twill jacket having notched lapel, flowers and scallops on a striped ground, single breast pocket and three flap pockets, beaded fringe with shell pendants. 7 1/2 x 11. silk-covered buttons, silk lining with quilted (Lacking a drawstring, lining is shattered where padding under arms and inside pocket; the drawstring was, minor edge wear to the matching three-pocket waistcoat with wool back top, some tarnish, two tiny holes on one side, and striped flannel lining; high waist button-fly missing two shells) very good. $250 - 350 trousers with angled pockets, cotton facings, back waist adjustment with buckle, trouser 435 CELLULOID SHOULDER BAG and TAPESTRY buttons impressed “E. Dunstan Helston”, jacket PURSE , 1910 -1930 label “E. Dunstan Helston Tailor”. DLM tag. Brown leather rectangular bag with flap having Ch-38, jacket L-30, W-38, Ins-26. (Slight wear to celluloid panels and enameled clasp ornament, jacket, waistcoat lining soiled and spots, trouser adjustable strap with buckle, 8 1/2 x 5 1/4, fabric slightly different, possibly assembled, (panels somewhat warped, some enamel loss). needs cleaning) very good. $250 - 350 Polychrome tapestry purse depicting a different courting couple with dog on each side, floral 441 SIR DANIEL WILLIAM LASCELLES UNIFORM embossed frame, plunger clasp, swan mounts and SWORD, c. 1950 and double chain handle, 7 1/2 x 9, (some wear, Complete dress uniform comprised of heavily stress to tapestry around frame). Both good. Lot 439 decorated tailcoat, button-fly trousers with gold $100 - 200 side stripe, beaver bicorne hat trimmed with ostrich feathers and sword with scabbard, tassel 436 TWO BEADED BAGS with FLORAL DESIGN, and sling. Lascelles, b. 1902, was Ambassador to 1912 - 1920 Ethiopia 1949-51, Minister of Afghanistan 1953- Both with hinged frame, chain handle and 57, Minister to Japan 1957-59. Label “Ranken & kiss clasp: One having wide mid-band on rust Co. Ltd”. Ch-40, Sh-17, Slv-25, L 21-40, trouser ground with looped and beaded fringe, silk W-34, Ins-33. (Jacket lining stained under arms) faille lining, pocket with snap-in mirror, 6 1/2 excellent. $1000 - 2000 x 10, (minor fringe losses, few missing beads around frame); one having roses, stylized 442 STAMPED PLUM PLUSH SUIT, c. 1900 floral and geometric shapes with basketweave Plush silk having a pattern of abstract foliage beaded fringe, cotton lining, 7 x 11, (fringe loss, stamped with teardrop shapes, double-breasted minor bead loss). Good-very good. $200 - 300 jacket with two off-center self buttons, front waistcoat hem and tiny back peplum, turned- 437 TWELVE PAIR LADIES’ GLOVES, 19th - early 20th C back cuff, collar and lapel of cream flannel with Six pair leather including one pair shoulder- topstitched stripe and lace insertion, cream satin length, six pair silk including three with stripes lining; trained skirt lined in purple satin with and one pair knit with lace. Good-excellent. double row of purple furbelows at hem. B-34, $100 - 200 W-22, skirt L 40-54. (Large splits to jacket lining, wool trim not original, small split and spoton 438 THREE PAIR DECORATED LEATHER GLOVES, c. collar, waistband splitting, one button missing, 1920 one loop broken, some rows of small light dots All with applied braid: One bone having possibly from touching beads in storage) good. turn-back cuff with tambour embroidery inset $250 - 350 with silver and gold leather; one pair white with black trim; one pair blue with pierced and 443 PARIS LABEL FRINGED CLUNY LACE JACKET, scalloped cuff with white insert, L 7-9. (Some 1900 wear and soil) good-excellent. Together with a Ivory lace with full sleeve gathered into a wide pair of child’s leather gloves, late 19th C, fair. cuff lavishly decorated with ivory silk ribbon $80 - 120 roses, ribbon fringe and tassels, satin lining. Label “Lichtenstein Millinery Co, Paris”. B-38, Sh-15, Slv-27, L-30. (Missing tassels, lining Lot 441 torn at shoulders and neckline, some seam separation, scattered small red spots) good. $300 - 400

64 444 LACE COAT attributed to EMPRESS MARIE of RUSSIA, c. 1900 Ivory lace in a large-scale pattern of vertical floral bands having full sleeve gathered into an embroidered net and pleated pink chiffon cuff with satin bow, the neckline front and hem appliquéd with pink and green ribbon flowers with silver sequins, lined with pleated pink chiffon with hem ruffles. Larson tag indicates purchased “Paris August 1967, Marie of Russia, sister of Queen Alexandra”. B-38, L-53. (Few broken brides, seam separation at back of neckline, some losses to ribbon flowers, spot on one sleeve ruffle, splits to satin ribbon on one cuff, bow missing on one cuff) very good. $1200 - 1500

445 ENGLISH WOOL and LACE AFTERNOON GOWN, 1901 2-piece cream flannel with cutwork, cream and taupe lace and cream silk ribbon flowers, high-neck bodice with long sleeve of dotted net and voile gathered into a wide cuff, front pierced buttons with rhinestone sets, cream silk cummerbund closing at the back with self bows and rhinestone buttons, trained skirt having a pleated hem ruffle. Petersham label “Peter Robinson Ltd, Oxford Street W”. B-34, W-22, L 40-61. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Relined, few sets missing from buttons, net on back of one sleeve has several light spots, few very minor spots on skirt back) excellent. $800 - 1200

446 WOOL SUIT with BRAIDED TRIM c. 1912 Lot 444 Lot 445 Purple broadcloth trimmed with black silk braid, satin, velvet and assorted buttons, long jacket with off-center closure at waist; A-line skirt having faux wrap design. Larson tag indicates purchased in Paris, 1967 and subsequently loaned to a fashion show. B-32, W-22, skirt L-38. (Button losses and damage, jacket is relined, tiny moth hole and faint fade mark, few moth holes in skirt) good. $300 - 400

447 ARTS & CRAFTS STYLE VELVETEEN WALKING SUIT, c. 1902 Blue with tone-on-tone decoration of ribbon, cord and soutache, double-breasted jacket with band collar and cuff inset with lighter blue satin and metallic cord, embroidered front with off-center closure that can be worn open as decorated lapels over a satin faux vest-front, sleeve puffed at shoulder, peplum back, satin lining; slightly trained skirt having channel stitching and meandering bands of chenille embroidery, taffeta underskirt with pleated hem ruffle. Label “Whelen, New York”. B-36, W-24, skirt L-44. (Splits to jacket lining and underskirt, wear to waistband, minor embroidery losses) very good. $600 - 800

448 SILK FOULARD DRESS with LACE and VELVET, 1902 - 1903 2-piece red-on-cream print with stylized lillies- of-the-valley, high-neck bodice having black velvet over silk bands to the pleated gauze collar, yoke and cuff, full sleeve with tucks and bands of lace gathered into cuff with lace and voile ruffles, bodice front and back having hanging lace and gauze panels, trained skirt with two lace-edged ruffles widening toward the back, cotton lining. B-36, W-24, L-41-59. (Lace browned, tears in gauze bodice front and cuffs hidden beneath lace, splits in collar) good. $300 - 500 Lot 448 Lot 447

65 450 LACE and CHIFFON EVENING WRAP, 1900 Pleated cream chiffon with large overlays of unusual mixed lace in cotton and silk with satin appliqués, chiffon bell sleeve having ruffled border beneath a capelet oversleeve, cord tie with silk and chiffon tassels, lined in cream silk charmeuse. Larson tag notes “Belonged to Mrs. Auchincloss”. B-36, L-45. (Brown spot to hem ruffle, tie detached on one side, some browning of threads, tears to one shoulder, small seam separation on collar) good. $800 - 1200

451 SEQUINED BLACK LACE EVENING COAT, c. 1900 Floral net lace embellished with black sequins. having over-capelet and butterfly sleeve, decorated with large, faceted paillettes and chenille tassels with jet beads, trimmed with pleated black tulle ruffles, cream taffeta lining with interior fan pocket and ruched chiffon along seams. FIDM inventory noted “Coat attributed to Yvette Guilbert”. B-34, L 60-67. (Some clouding to jet beads, bead losses, broken paillette, one chenille tassel missing on sleeve, few small faded spots on capelet) very good. $1200 - 1500

452 TRAINED LINEN and LACE DRESS, attributed to QUEEN MARY, c. 1905 Cream linen with vertical bands of broderie anglaise alternating with embroidered floral vines in satin-stitch with French knots, puffed sleeve gathered into a lace-trimmed cuff at the elbow with inserts of Irish crochet, crochet high- Lot 449 neck insert and back closure with tiny mother- of-pearl buttons, hemline decorated with a series of scalloped tucks. B-36, W-28, L 60-73. (Several small light brown stains on skirt front, minor browning to lace) excellent. Tag “Queen Mary 1904”. Doris Langley Moore provided Helen another gown worn by Queen Mary with 100% provenance. Unknown if this was acquired from DLM but size is large in waist and bust as Mary was known to be. $1200 - 1500

453 SEQUINED NET and LACE GOWN with DAY and EVENING BODICES, 1901 Black tulle over silk having allover decoration Lot 452 of cream lace flower baskets with ribbons, black and white sequins and steel beads: Long sleeve, high-neck day bodice; evening bodice having 449 CUTWORK LINEN DRESS attributed to boatneck and short, lace-ruffled bell sleeve, both QUEEN MARY, c. 1904 trimmed with black tissue silk; trained skirt Cream linen with cutwork having crocheted having a double silk ruffle at the hem. Larson high-neck insert and berthe collar over a tag indicates dress belonged to the wife of the Lot 453 puffed sleeve of pleated gauze with crocheted United States ambassador to France, B-34, W-26, trim, cutwork center band, lower skirt and L 39-51. (Some sequin losses, skirt has some train all bordered in crochet, boned silk taffeta mends and tears barely noticeable due to the underdress with pleated hemband. Petersham color, back of day bodice has a 1-inch hole in the label “Woolland Bros Court Dressmakers and cream lace) good. $700 - 900 Tailor”. DLM tag “Queen Mary c. 1904-5”, purchased through Doris Langley Moore. B-40, 454 LAWN and LACE HIGH-NECK GOWN, 1905 W-30, L-57-65. (Binding and chiffon backing to White cotton having floral appliqués, tucks neck band torn, underdress torn around hook & and bands of Val lace, embroidered long sleeve eye closures, two small holes in underdress at bodice with pigeon breast, back closure of tiny hem, faint watermark and small stain on skirt mother-of-pearl buttons, wide waistband, bell- back) very good. $700 - 900 shaped skirt with hem ruffle. B-36, W-24, L-61. (Some small tears and seam separations, small mend on back, lacking underdress) very good. $400 - 500

66 455 TRAINED CUTWORK and EMBROIDERED Lot 457 Detail NET and LACE DRESS, 1907 White cotton having short sleeve and allover decoration of embroidered net, tucks and bobbin lace, wide A-line skirt with small train. B-36, W-26, L 52-57. (Scattered holes in the net, few broken brides, lacking underdress) very good. $500 - 700

456 FRENCH AVANT-GARDE TRAINED and SEQUINED NET GOWN, c. 1900 Black net over taffeta striped with lapis blue sequins, the midriff covered with silver sequins, train shaped with the sequined points continuing from the skirt over chiffon ruffle, the bodice has short, puffed sleeve of black net and hanging panels creating a short bolero effect. B-34, W-26, L 52-74. Tag indicates gown purchased from Cora Ginsgerg in 1968 who said it was French and worn by a duchess. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque Lot 455 d’Elegance”, 1991. (Few holes in net at hem, some sequin losses, chiffon underdress has mends and holes at hem) very good. $1200 - 1500 Lot 451 Detail 457 PRINCESSLINE VOILE and LACE DRESS, 1908 White cotton having 3/4 sleeve, lavishly decorated with tucks and bands of various laces, lower skirt trumpet-flared and decorated with a wide scalloped band of eyelet and embroidery. B-36, W-26, L-53. (Some spots and mends on lower skirt, small tear to one cuff along seam, several hidden buttons broken) very good. $500 - 700

458 WHITE IRISH LACE COAT, 1908 Long sleeve puffed at the shoulder with net inserts, having a vining floral of large flowers with raised centers and swags of bellflowers, unlined. B-38, L-40. (Broken brides, small seam separation, loose threads and small tear at shoulder) very good. $500 - 700

459 TWO WHITE LINEN GOWNS with IRISH CROCHET LACE, 1909 One short sleeve having embroidered dots, decorated with inserts of lace, B-38, W-28, L-61. (Holds and mends under arm and at hem, at waist and near hem, lace torn at back waist, some broken brides, light browning at the shoulders). One with elbow length sleeve having cutwork with blue embroidery, lace bodice insert and cuff, black silk sash with flower detail, B-38, W-24, 61-63. (Few small brown spots and browning to lace, sash detached). Good. Purchased through Doris Langley Moore, Lot 105 Christie’s auction July 11, 1967. $500 - 700

460 CUTWORK LINEN GOWN with IRISH CROCHET, 1908 - 1910 Lot 456 Cream with elbow-length sleeve having cutwork floral with satin-stitch embroidery and bands of Irish crochet with raised flowers, V-neck and back, back closure with crocheted buttons, B-40, W-24, L-56. (Few broken brides, minor seam separation, very minor age toning) excellent. $400 - 600

67 461 WHITE IRISH CROCHET LACE COAT, 1910 Collarless style with short, angled kimono sleeve having a floral pattern with large leaves and embroidered net bands, unlined. 50 x 48. (Few small faint stains, broken brides) excellent. $800 - 1200

462 SLEEVELESS TAPE LACE JACKET, c. 1908 A-line jacket with large net reserves, unlined with no closures, B-40, L-33. (Reddish staining, mainly on the back) very good. $300 - 400

463 EMBROIDERED WOOL DRESS and CUTAWAY COAT ENSEMBLE, 1908 Black broadcloth decorated in colorful silk and chenille embroidery with metallic silver and gold braid and net in a floral pattern, dress having high waist bodice with silk sleeves having wide tucks and high-neck duchesse lace insert, trained skirt; matching coat having pointed collar and wide lapel, satin buttons with silk braid and an embroidered silk faux vest front, decorative back buttons and silk lining. Label “Gilcher Los Angeles”. Dress B-36, W-30, L 58-65, coat B-38, L-53. (Some breaks to lace, small open seam on one sleeve, few broken embroidery threads, small spots on train, few minor holes) excellent. $600 - 800

464 CUTWORK LINEN 3-PIECE WALKING SUIT, 1908 Cream with cutwork and embroidered floral, scrolls and diamonds with lace fillings, high- neck long sleeve blouse with shoulder tucks and back buttons; long jacket with scalloped collar, cuff and front opening, crocheted buttons; wide A-line skirt having small back belt. B-38, W-24, skirt L 40-43. (Along the front edge jacket has Lot 464 Lot 465 small brown spots, several small holes-possibly where hooks & eyes were removed, two bands of stitch marks circles jacket waist, possibly from a wide belt) jacket-very good, shirt and blouse- excellent. $700 - 900

465 CUTWORK LINEN WALKING SUIT, 1912 Long jacket having scalloped collar and cuff, decorated with cutwork scrolls and flowers, lace fillings and satin-stitch embroidery, attached self belt, crocheted buttons; A-line skirt pieced in seven panels with matching decoration. B-36, W-28, skirt L-41. (Minor wear to belt, few light spots above hem, tiny mend) excellent. $600 - 800

466 LINEN DRESS and JACKET with CLUNY LACE, 1910 - 1912 High-neck dress having elbow-length sleeve with bands of lace and hairpin soutache bands, black velvet belt, matching long jacket with 3/4 sleeve, having wide lace collar with ball fringe, velvet trim and buttons. B-36, W-28, L-57. (Minor losses and browning to fringe, velvet worn on buttons) very good. $1200 - 1500

467 WHITE IRISH CROCHET COAT, 1910 Fitted long sleeve coat with shawl collar and flared cuff, crocheted with panels of large flowers with lattice bands, unlined. B-40, L-49. (Few light stains, some broken brides) very good. $600 - 800

468 IRISH CROCHET 2-PIECE DRESS, 1908 - 1912 High-neck long sleeve bodice and unpicked trained skirt having a floral pattern with swags, bows and leaves, B-34, skirt L-44-50. (Scattered stains and holes) good. $700 - 900 Lot 466 Lot 467

68 469 PARIS LABEL IRISH CROCHET GOWN, c. 1912 473 HOODED VELVET EVENING COAT, 1912 Raised floral lace over pale pink silk charmeuse, Cerise panné velvet cocoon trimmed around having short sleeve, somewhat high waist hood and arm openings in brown fur. L-54. and narrow A-line skirt, the neckline edged in (Scattered small brown spots, relined, fur bobbin lace, cream warp-printed sash with pink replaced c. 1940, fur losses, minor wear) good. and gold roses edged in pink satin with bow $200 - 300 and long back streamers. Label “Au Bon Marché Paris” inked “1447”. B-36, W-30, L-55. (Some 474 CHERUIT PARIS SHOT SILK CAPE, 1915 - 1918 age-toning to the sleeves and hem, ribbon a later Green-on-green with tiny blue stripe, tulip- addition) excellent. $700 - 900 shaped cocoon having squared front collar to V-neck, gathered back neckline, weighted seam 470 TALL LADY’S WHITE COTTON HIGH-NECK running from front part-way around back with GOWN, c. 1910 a tapered ruffle, split lower back with petal hem, Long sleeve bodice decorated with tucks, brown over green chiffon lining. Label “Cheruit serpentine bands of lace and soutache, lace 21. Place Vondome Paris”. L-51. (Lining torn at waistband, cuff and collar, skirt with crossed collar, small white spots to back and collar, slight front panels with lace bands. DLM tag states fading to center back) very good. $600 - 800 “For tall woman”. B-34, W-24, L-62. (Few minor brown spots, one cuff edging torn) excellent. 475 SILK-TRIMMED VELVET SUIT, 1915 -17 $300 - 400 Black velvet having double breast with asymmetrical angled closure, decorated with 471 BLACK CHIFFON and GOLD LAME COAT, c. 1912 black braid, green wool-lined lapels and Black chiffon over apricot satin having large buttonhole trim, crocheted buttons, stand collar repeating gold lamé wreath and column design, and cuff having band of emerald green velvet black satin collar and cuff, ruched shoulder with metallic gold embroidery, 3/4 self belt with details, large silk and metallic gold frog closure, back buttons above decorated peplum, lined in side panels taper and cross over the back hem green satin, A-line skirt with braid decoration, with self roundel, unlabeled. L-46. (Some B-38, Sh-15, Slv-22, W-28, L-35. (Very minor fraying of shoulder ruching, thread loss to frog, wear to trim, interior waistband torn in two) frog, collar and cuffs all likely a replacement) excellent. $300 - 500 very good. $300 - 400 476 TWO CHIFFON DRESSES, c. 1912 472 TWO LINEN and LACE ENSEMBLES, 1910 - 1916 One navy blue and white with navy trim and Both unlined with short sleeve, raised flower red bead buttons, short cuffed sleeve, lace collar, heads and crocheted baubles: One pink and chiffon over silk lining. DLM tag, worn in Doris ecru lace suit having a lace peplum jacket Langley Moore’s 1957 BBC television series Lot 469 with linen bands, A-line linen skirt inset with “Men, Women and Clothes”, B-36, W-24, L-58. two scalloped bands of lace, separate boned (Tears under arms, bodice side seam mended, cummerbund, B-38, W-31, L-34. (Some age- some pulls, missing some hooks, soil and wear toning of lace, skirt has light brown stains, to underdress hem, tear to hem). One black hem lengthened one inch). One white dress having sleeveless under-bodice of cream chiffon and jacket lavishly decorated with bands and and pink satin with an overlay of tulle with appliqués of lace, tucked waistband with back metallic gold embroidery, chiffon having three tassel, B-38, W-25, L-56. (Few minor brown pink and green flowers above a pleated and spots, some broken brides). Good-excellent. trained skirt, rectangular floating side panels $600 - 800 trimmed with bands of black bugle beads, hem edged in beaded fringe, B-34, L-52-64. (Mends and tears in hem area, underskirt discolored from the beads, fringe losses, cream chiffon is torn at the shoulder, bodice torn at shoulders and along one side seam). Both good. $300 - 400

477 LACE and NET DRESS with LILAC TRIM, 1916 Dotted ivory net having short-sleeve bodice with ruffled collar, an overlay of floral lace, trimmed with lilac silk and velvet ribbons, full skirt with two sets of tucks above lace band, chiffon and silk underdresses, silk lining. Modeled by Mrs. Michael Redgrave , plate Lot 471 Detail CIII in Doris Langley Moore’s “The Woman in Fashion”, 1949. B-36, W-24, L-51. (Satin waist sash shattered, 2-inch tear to net along bound edge of front opening, some tearing to chiffon above waistband) very good. $300 - 400

478 VELVET EVENING JACKET with METALLIC LACE, c. 1914 Champagne panné velvet having long ruched sleeve inset from the shoulder with a wide band of metallic gold and silver lace, tall lace collar, the jacket front, and hem banded with fox fur, wide lace back panel, lined in grey velvet edged with shirred satin ribbon. B-38, L-28. (Evenly tarnished, minor fur losses) good. $400 - 600 Lot 477

69 479 LUCILE LADY DUFF GORDON SATIN 480 EMBROIDERED COTTON DRESS, possibly 486 THREE PAIR HEELED PUMPS, 1912 - 1920 DINNER GOWN, c. 1916 CALLOT SOEURS, 1918 One pair royal purple satin with black kid toe Ivory silk figured with caramel velvet apples, Sleeveless white overdress finely decorated having small cut-steel ornament, label “Carson having long sleeve, lace bodice insert, collar and with cutwork and embroidered flower baskets, Pirie Scott Chicago”, L- 9 3/4 with 2 1/4 heel; cuff with silk ribbons in pastel shades, wired swags and daisy chains, having inserts of filet one pair black leather with red trim, bow vamp silk corsage at waist, open skirt lined in chiffon lace with moths and side panniers with figural and heel, faint label “Stern Bros.”, (some scuffs, over a silk and chiffon underskirt with lace trim needle lace inserts over a short-sleeved tulle mostly on heels); one pair royal purple satin and ribbon bows beneath a shorter lace skirt underdress with tucks and bands of various having tiny buckle with rhinestones, label with tiny buttons, self bow at skirt back. Label laces. Unlabeled, Larson tag notes “Callot “Made in England Expressly for Buckley and “Lucile Ltd. 37 & 39 West 57th St. New York”. Soeurs dress exhibited at the LA Museum in Nunn Ltd.” (some splits to quarter, toe tips B-36, W-26, L-54. (Some tearing to silk bows 1962”. B-36, L-44. (Scattered holes and small slightly abraded). L 9-10, heels 2- 2 1/2 inches. and trim, one bow detached, some age toning tears) very good. $600 - 800 Good-excellent. $200 - 300 to lace, it appears some trim was removed from back of skirt, scattered small holes, some snaps 481 TWO PAIR BEADED SATIN WEDDING 487 THREE PAIR FRENCH SHOES with added, some splits to net underskirt) good. SHOES, c. 1890 and 1914 DECORATION, 1908 - 1912 $3000 - 4000 Both cream with Louis heel: 1890s pair with All black with Louis heel: One pair leather with button strap embroidered with pearls, “label lacing with teardrop cutouts and jet beads, L-11, Peter Robinson, Regent Street, London”, Larson (lacking laces, beads clouded, heels replaced). collection label inked ‘Mrs. Harrison’, L-10, One having high Y-shaped vamp pierced in a (splits to silk); 1914 pair with bow vamp and diamond pattern with tiny beads, L-10, (splits tiny crystal beads, L-9 1/2, (some wear). Fair- to silk). One black satin pumps decorated with good. $100 - 200 red and black embroidery to the toe and heel with tiny steel beads, vamp having a ruched red 482 TWO PAIR FRENCH TANGO BOOTS with silk and pierced rhinestone bow ornament, label JEWELED HEELS, 1890 - 1915 “F. Pinet Paris”, L-10, includes custom mounts. Both having scalloped lace-up closure and Fair-excellent. $300 - 500 celluloid heel decorated with rhinestones: Pink satin lined in white kid, (large worn spots and splits to satin, laces shredded). Cream satin having starburst vamp ornament with rhinestones, lined in white kid, (starbursts missing rhinestones, one silk lace torn, one lace missing). Both labeled “Alice Courbevoie Bottier 46. Ave Marceau”, 8 1/2-9 x 12 with a 3-inch heel. Boots poor-good, heels excellent. $500 - 800

483 TWO PAIR LADIES’ BARRETTE BOOTS, c. 1915 Identical style in black leather, open front having black buttons, silk tassel and cut steel decoration at vamp, 9 1/2 x 8 1/2 with 2-inch heel. (One pair missing one tassel, 1/2 mend, two buttons moved on each boot, one strap mangled) good; one pair having custom mounts (one button replaced) excellent. $250 - 350

484 TWO PAIR LADIES’ KID LEATHER PUMPS with TIES, 1910 & 1913 Both with pointed toe, wide and tie with grommets: one pink with pink satin ribbon, kid lining and insole, label “Laird, Schober and Co. Philada.”, L-11 with 1 3/4-inch Louis heel. Note on inventory, “Royal family (Maria, Weisbaden)”, no other provenance found.(Small scuff, few nicks) excellent. One with cutout vamp, silver buckle and tie with large grommets and purple and white ribbon ties. Tag indicates purchased from Doris Langley Moore, L-9 3/4 with 2-inch Louis heel. (Some wear to ribbons, minor rust on buckles) very good. $250 - 350

485 FOUR PAIR LADIES’ HEELED SHOES, 1910 - 1915 All with Louis heels: One pair brown leather having high pointed vamp, with custom two- piece wood inserts, label “Thomas Lugton & Son”; one pair khaki suede having small buckle with Greek key motif; two pair black patent leather with buckle, one having marcasite oval, label “J.W. Robinson Co. Los Angeles, Cal.”, one with pierced rectangular silver metal buckle and tall heel, L 10-10 1/2. Very good-excellent. Lot 480 Lot 479 $150 - 250

70 488 TWO PAIR LADIES’ BEADED KID SHOES, 495 CHINESE EXPORT SILK EMBROIDERED 1912 - 1915 SHOES, 1930s. Both bronze with barrette vamp, faceted studs, Pale purple satin pumps having polychrome tiny steel beads, 2 1/2 inch Louis heel: One label satin-stitch embroidery of vining flowers, “Lord & Taylor”, L-9 3/4, (studs tarnished); one butterflies and fish, black binding, stamped having net insertion, label “Made for the Walk- Chinese export label. L-9 3/4 with 1 1/4 heel. Over Shop, 330 Fifth Avenue, N.Y.”, L-10. Very Custom mount included. Excellent. $150 - 250 good-excellent. $200 - 300 496 THREE STRAW HATS, 1900 - 1912 489 THREE PAIR HEELED BLACK SATIN SHOES, One tan having a wide border woven in a 1912 - 1915 scalloped design, crushed flat crown decorated One with beaded toe, bow vamp and shaped with moire silk ribbon, pink cloth poppies and tongue, label “Laird Schober and Co. Philada.”, Lot 482 white daisies, underside having chiffon, moire L-9 1/2, 3 inch heel; one with ankle strap and bows and poppies, 19 x 2 1/2, (some breaks to pierced rhinestone buckle, L-10 1/2, 2 1/4-inch straw border, splits to silk). One natural having heel, (missing some sets); one having T-strap wide, flat crown, and turned-up brim, twisted with double ankle straps, label “Lonstein’s band of navy and silver striped silk ribbon Bethlehem”, L-9 with 2 3/4-inch heel, (missing with beige soutache ornament and blue tassel, one button). Very good-excellent. $300 - 500 13 x 12 x 4 3 /4. One natural straw turned up to one side and edged in mauve moire silk, 490 GOLD LAME BARETTE BOOTS, 1910 - 1915 large rounded crown decorated with brown Mid-calf height having eleven bars with brass and white ostrich plumes, russet velvet ribbon, dome buttons and Louis heel, cream kid cream-colored cloth rose, 15 x 19 x 5 1/2, (some insole and lining, 9 3/4 x 11, includes custom discoloration to rose). Good-excellent. $250 - 350 mount. Red tag on sole suggests possibly from Lederman collection. (Overall tarnish, wear to 497 BRAIDED STRAW HAT with ROSES, 1905 tips of toes, some button bindings fraying, 1/4 Wide-brim with small crown having fancy inch worn spot along back seam of one boot) woven border, brim turned up to one side good. $800 - 1000 and decorated with cloth roses to the top and underside, black velvet ribbon trim with bows, 491 TWO PAIR LADIES’ BOOTS, 1914 - 1917 Lot 483 custom mount included, 18 x 16 x 5 1/2. (Few One with brown wool knit shaft having leather breaks and mends to straw, minor losses to heel and trim with perforated design, top flowers) very good. $300 - 500 buckle detail, DLM tag, 10 x 15 with 2 1/2-inch heel, (mended at top, some moth holes, leather 498 THREE WIDE-BRIM HATS, 1902 - 1910 stained) fair. One taupe velvet front lacing with Two having short, flat crown: One pink felt, berry red leather toe and quarter, stacked wood the double brim enclosing pink satin bellows, heel, embroidered loops and military-inspired appliquéd with chemical lace, black velvet chevrons, leather facing stamped “Walk Over”, hat band, large pink satin bow with cut-steel 9 1/2 x 10 with 2 1/2-inch heel, (velvet soiled, ornament, 15 x 2, (light soil, very minor surface one boot stained with black) good. $250 - 350 moth damage). One wired with bands of blue horsehair and cream lace, decorated with 492 GENT’S SUEDE HIGH BUTTON SHOES, wide silk ribbon having an abstract print in EARLY 20th C. cream, blue and grey, under-brim covered Black with rounded square toe, mother-of- in ruched blue chiffon with self roses, pink pearl buttons and stacked heel. Label “Rob. silk lining cinched with label “J. Hammett & Maschle Berlin. Zimmerstr. 21.” 12 x 7 1/2 with Co., Broadway Ealing. W.”, 16 x 15 x 2 1/2, 1 1/2-inch heel. (Missing one button) otherwise (scattered brown spots to lace), DLM tags. One excellent. $400 - 600 macramé ivory silk with oval crown folded Lot 490 around the sides with large self bow having a 493 FIVE PAIR CHILDRENS BOOTS, 1900 - 1910 black openwork fancy-weave brim, 15 x 16 x 5, One pair tan and black leather spectator-style (several small splits in crown, few minor breaks lace-ups, label “Walton Waterproof”; four pair to brim). Good-very good. $300 - 500 side-buttoning: one pair bone “Little Chums”, one pair unworn black “DeBartolo Los Angles”, 499 FOUR WIDE-BRIM STRAW HATS, 1905 - 1915 one pair pink kid with white glass buttons and One ivory with rounded crown impressed with side scallops, one pair tan with side scallops. cross, tapered oval brim and satin ribbon band, Good-pristine. $100 - 200 silk under-brim and lining, label “J.V. Smith & Son”, 14 1/2 x 13 x 5, (tear and small holes to 494 THREE PAIR LADIES’ SHOES, 1910 - 1930 lining). One black oval boater having tan under- One pair 1920s red kid with cutouts and brim, lavender faille band with bow, silk lining, straps, Los Angeles label, L-10 with 1 3/4 inch 11 1/2 x 13 1/2 x 4 1/2. One having flat crown heel (tiny tear in one toe, one button needs with lilac flowers and braided band, 12 x 4. One mending). One pair brown leather and tan rounded crown with blue and mauve ostrich suede low-heeled working shoes c. 1910, with plumes, cream moire bow, silk under-brim and cutout details, labeled Lonstein’s Behtlehem, lining, label “Lichtenstein Millinery Co.”, 14 1/2 L-9 3/4 (minor scuffs). One pair brown leather x 4, (lining torn). Very good-excellent. $300 - 400 c. 1930 with basketweave inserts and lancet work, button strap, sole marked “Hand Made in Spain”, 10 1/2 with 2 1/4-inch heel. $150 - 200 Lot 497

71 500 LADY’S RIDING TRICORNE with FEATHERS, 1907 506 TWO STRAW HATS with COLORED TRIM, 511 TWO HORSEHAIR HATS, c. 1912 Black velour with plush turned-up brim, round 1909 & 1912 One fancy-weave ivory straw and horsehair crown, having ostrich feathers knotted and One tan straw having black underbrim with large crown and angled, turned-up brim clipped with streamer, black silk lining. Label decorated with a ring of orange ostrich feathers, having partial black net overlay, black velvet “Faye Hall 516 5th Ave. New York”. 9 1/2 x 11 wired net and needle lace ornament and band, straw chrysanthemum, horsehair spray, x 7. (Lining partially unstitched, some nicks to orange shaded aigrette, velvet and silk lining, wired interior crown covered in cotton, 10 x 11 spine of feather) very good. $200 - 300 photographed in “The Woman in Fashion” x 8, (tears in net, some breaks to spray, spots by Doris Langley Moore, worn by Beatrice to lining) good. One black having large crown 501 FOUR HATS with FEATHERS, 1904 - 1915 Lillie, tag indicates purchased from Doris loosely wound with black net, the wide brim One ruched grey velvet with oyster velvet trim Langley Moore. 16 x 15 1/2 x 7 1/2. (Aigrette ringed in black rooster feathers, crown having and shaded feather pom-pom, remnants of Paris is separated from hat, very minor browning tulle covered wire insert and silk lining, 22 x 4 label, 11 x 4. One black silk having jet ornament to lace). One natural leghorn with large crown 1/2. DLM tag indicates hat was worn by Lady and pink and black ostrich feathers, 7 x 10 x 5. and turned-up brim covered in a wide band of Redgrave in “The Woman in Fashion” but not One ruched brown velvet with ostrich feather changeable rose-pink taffeta with oversized bow found in book, excellent. $200 - 400 band and plume, 8 x 9 x 5, (feather losses). One folded at the back and decorated with a cluster black velveteen with upturned brim, having a of cherries, inside crown having black velvet 512 STRAW HAT with ORANGE TRIM and cascade of pink and cerise ostrich plumes, silk band and cream silk lining. Label “Marshall CORAL HATPINS, c. 1912 lining, label “Marshall Field & Co.” 13 x 12, Field & Co.” 19 1/2 x 17 x 4 1/2. (Minor foliage Light brown straw with wide, flat crown and attached tag “Dixon Ridgeway Tea”. Together losses to cherries). Very good-excellent. $300 - 500 wide, slightly turned-up brim, having a band with a 1920s style velvet and ribbon headband of copper satin with streamers decorated with with ostrich plume. Good-excellent. $200 - 400 507 SILK HAT with METALLIC LACE, c. 1910 velvet and silk bows with various orange and Oversized cream satin having black net-covered white flowers. 20 x 5. (Silk lining replaced). 502 OVERSIZED WIDE-BRIM BEAVER HAT with wide turned-up brim and shaped crown Includes two large hatpins with gold metal ROSES, 1910 covered in metallic lace with self bow, white spikes and prongs holding coral flattened Black fur with 6-inch brim having large, flat ostrich plume, underside of brim covered in globes, pins 7 1/2 x 1/2, (one globe cracked) crown, decorated with two large magenta cloth plum velvet, silk lining. Label “McKey Niles Co. excellent. $300 - 500 roses, silk crown lining. 20 x 4 1/4, with custom Chicago”, 18 x 8 1/2. (Lining mostly detached mount. (One leaf detached) excellent. $300 - 500 and shattering) otherwise excellent. $400 - 600 513 FIVE GIRLS’ WHITE COTTON DRESSES, 1897 - 1925 503 FIVE SUMMER HATS, 1904 - 1915 508 TWO WIDE-BRIM STRAW HATS, 1905 - 1915 Three trimmed with Irish crochet and tucks: One straw with flat silk crown and wired brim One leghorn having wide crown, wavy brim, One having waistband with lace channels and with large bow covered in lace, decorated brown velvet band, cloth flower and wheat pink satin ribbon with flower, “Paris” tag, B-20, in pink flowers, 10 x 11 x 5, includes custom decoration, label “Heelas Sons”, 13 x 14 L-21; one having gathered bodice and hem mount, (silk very shattered) poor. One oyster 1/2 x 3, tag indicates purchased form Doris ruffles, B-28, L-26 (several small mends); one raffia with turned-up brim, the underside Langley Moore, (silk lining shattered). One with bobbin-lace yoke, cutwork, embroidery covered in pleated tulle, decorated with tulle black decorated with black and white ostrich and butterfly appliqués, B-26, L-31, (small band, wired bow and pink silk roses, 10 x 12 plumes, wired white silk band and bow with mend, few tiny holes). One batiste with inserts x 4, (tulle bow torn, minor losses). One blue brown dots, silk lining, 13 1/2 x 14 1/2 x 3. of Val lace, embroidered with bell flowers and and red striped raffia with crumpled horsehair Together with a small 1890s straw hat with later tiny eyelets, B-24, L-29. One organdy with crown, large raffia bow detail, floral appliqué decoration of pleated ribbon with embroidered self ruffles and an organdy slip, label “Miss L. with straw and metallic gold trim, silk lining dots and blue feathers, purchased from Doris Brogan, Inc. New Orleans”, B-30, L-24. Good- with gold band, 9 x 10 x 8, (few minor breaks). Langley Moore, 9 x 9 3/4 x 3. Good-excellent. excellent. $150 - 250 One pink chiffon Floradora having wired wide $250 - 350 brim, ruched, ruffled and decorated with black 514 THREE CHILDREN’S WHITE COTTON COATS, velvet bows, very short flat crown covered in 509 TWO OVERSIZED WIDE-BRIM STRAW HATS 1897 - 1905 small white flowers, under-brim having ruching with VELVET, 1910 - 1912 All having eyelet and embroidery with large and black bows, 16 x 14 x 2 , label “Emery Bird One Panama with wide, turned-up brim, flat collar: One having inserts of crochet lace edged Thayer, Kansas City”, includes custom mount. crown having rolled cerise velvet band, and in Van Dyke points, B-22, L-19; two with floral One grey chiffon with unstructured, ruffled huge wired bow, 20 x 18 x 6, excellent. One rounds and scrolling foliage, one of ribbed and brim and wired flat crown covered in wavy black having flat crown, brim woven in a wide dotted fabric, both B-24, L-21. (Two lacking pleats, decorated with satin ribbon and pink stripe and turned up at the front, underside of button loops) excellent. $100 - 200 flowers, under-brim having small cloth corsage, brim has wide velvet band, decorated with two 15 x 12 x 2. Poor-very good. $250 - 350 large ostrich plumes. Label “Sadleir & Brown 515 THREE CHILDREN’S WHITE COTTON COATS, Millinery Importers, 1828 W. Susquehanna c. 1900 504 RAFFIA WIDE-BRIM HAT with ROSES, 1908 - 1910 Ave”. 23 x 17 x 7. (Tiny break in straw, one One white piqué coat with broderie anglaise, Black with wide flat crown decorated with two plume broken) very good. $300 - 400 auction tag lot 134 purchased at Christie’s bands of cloth cottage roses in shades of pink, auction, July 15, 1968, includes copy of Christie’s cluster of green leaves, large wired black velvet 510 PURPLE BRAIDED STRAW WIDE-BRIM HAT, catalog description, label “Mrs. Washington bow, underside of brim ringed with rolled c. 1910 Moon, Outfitter by Royal Appointment”, B-26, cranberry velvet, silk lining, custom mount. 17 Oversized hat with large, flat crown decorated L-21, (browning, brown spot near the buttons). 1/2 x 17 1/2 x 4 1/2. Excellent. $300 - 400 with cloth flowers and white chiffon ribbon One ribbed with large ruffled collar and inset having black chenille spots. Label “The Orb bands of eyelet and embroidery, B-22, L-18. 505 TWO FLOWER-COVERED HATS with Make, Highest Grade”, DLM tag, narrated One woven with ribbed and dotted stripe, wide TURNED-UP BRIM, 1912 - 1913 used in BBC series “Men, Women, and Clothes: cutwork and embroidered bands having pleated One wired pink silk with blue straw crown, Sense and Nonsense in Fashion” by Doris skirt, B-22, L-19, (one button replaced). Good- cream lilac flowers and large lavender velvet Langley Moore. 16 1/2 x 14 3 /4 x 5. (Straw excellent. $100 - 200 bow, under-brim covered in lavender chiffon, braids mostly detached from each other, tears to 12 x 13 x 9, includes custom mount. (Tears chiffon) good. $350 - 450 516 CHILD’S IRISH CROCHET LACE COAT, 1900 to silk and chiffon, splits to ribbon, crown Unlined coat with wide ruffled collar and cuff, lining removed) fair. One toque with wired having an overall raised floral within trim tulle crown, pink roses and blue forget-me- bands. B-20, L-28. (Minor age-toning) excellent. nots, fuchsia brim and velvet band with large $150 - 250 stiffened bow, label “Ville de Paris Los Angeles, Cal”, 11 x 13 x 7 1/2, includes custom mount, (very minor losses to flowers) excellent. $300 - 400

72 Lot 502

Lot 504

Lot 500

Lot 507

Lot 512 Lot 510

Lot 506 Lot 511

73 517 FIVE CHILDRENS WHITE NET GARMENTS, 522 TRAINED RIBBON and LACE DRESSING 527 CONSUELO VANDERBILT’S BEADED GOWN, 1910 - 1912 GOWN, 1900 c. 1907, EXHIBITED at THE MET Three short-sleeve dresses with soutache and Alternating bands of pink satin ribbon and Attributed to Callot Soeurs. Black net with lace silk ribbon rose detail, B-20, L-17, B-24, L-18, embroidered net with repeating bowknots, inserts over pale blue chiffon and satin, having B-20, L-19. Two similar coats: one having silk wide, rounded collar, three-quarter bell sleeve, high waist and deep V-neck, full, short puffed lining and rose detail, B-22, L-18; one decorated full skirt with small train, hook & eye closures sleeves of heavy ivory lace, the bodice and with rows of self ruffles, B-24, L-20. (Scattered and single ribbon tie, unlined. B-38, W-24, L 58- upper portion of skirt beaded in a floral garland holes, some age-toning, lacking underdresses) 63. (Collar has some splits and several repairs, motif in frosty white beads, the trained skirt good-excellent. $100 - 200 few small holes to lace and minor splits to satin) is hemmed with a black lace band flanked by good. $200 - 300 ruched lace above and black satin below, blue 518 FOUR CHILDREN’S WHITE COTTON satin underskirt weighted at the hem below DRESSES, EARLY 20th C 523 SILK GOWN with CUTWORK MUSLIN and a pleated ruffle, unlabeled. Together with a One having tucks and bands of lace insertion, LACE DESHIBILLE, c. 1900 pair of black satin evening shoes with beaded B-24, L-31; three with eyelet and embroidery: Trained pale mint green silk having narrow rosette to the vamp and beaded guides for silk one with tiny tucks and large ruffled collar, B-25, bands of lace with chiffon poet sleeve worn laces, label “Lagel-Meier Paris”. Dress was L-24; one having inserts of coiled soutache and under white sleeveless long coat heavily loaned to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for a scalloped hem, tag indicates purchased in Paris, decorated with Irish crochet lace, cutwork and special exhibition, “American Women of Style”, B-30, L-30; one having channels with pink satin embroidered hydrangeas with soutache. Larson December, 1975-August 1976. Exhibited at the ribbon, B-32, L-21. Very good-excellent. $150 tag with “Paris” notation. L 56-68 . (Silk Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, - 250 has holes, tears, mends in shoulder area 1991.B-36, W-24, L 55-72, shoes L-10 3/4 with and cuffs, seam separation to lace 2-inch heel. Excellent. $1800 - 2500 519 TWO GIRLS EMBROIDERED bands, coat some holes and TAFFETA COATS with MATCHING mends to muslin mainly in 528 WORTH VELVET on SATIN GOWN, 1910 SHOES, 1910 hem area, soil and small Purple satin with graduated velvet botehs Both having satin-stitch floral stains to train) silk gown having semi-boned bodice with short, slightly embroidery to the collar, poor, coat good. $300 puffed tulle sleeve, tulle appliqués with purple front band, cuff and pocket - 500 iridil beads, silver sequins and prong-set paste flap: One pink, B-31, L-28, jewels, trained skirt with shaped center velvet (tiny stain and spot). One 524 DRECOLL PARIS band flanked by beadwork, hem with two blue-green, B-32, L-26. LACE and CHIFFON bands of beaded fringe, back of skirt having Matching leather shoes DESHABILLE, 1912 velvet insert with three jeweled butterfly with London label, L-7 Ecru tulle figured appliqués. Label “C Worth”. B-34, W-22, L 42-60. 1/2 inches. (Some with star flowers Purchased from Sotheby & Co. auction April wear to shoes, both and dots, 23, 1965, from auction catalog “The following . re-polished and lavishly . .was worn by American heiress Mrs. Bradley somewhat decorated Martin (nee Elizabeth Sherman) of New York, stiff, blue with her daughter, Cornelia, who married the 4th shoes floral Earl of Craven in 1893.” Also worn in the 1979 no longer lace, the film “The Champ”. Exhibited at the Melbourne match coat) lower gown Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. shoes good, coats embroidered (Rhinestone-studded bodice insert and lace, not excellent. $100 - 150 with a large floral original, facings and snaps added, waistband repeat, short sleeve open replaced, fabric padding basted into sleeves, 520 NINE LINGERIE ITEMS along the top, large circular only remnants of purple tulle on sleeves) very Lot 525 BURNS-HARCOURT FAMILY, 1900 cutouts around the hip threaded good. $1500 - 2000 - 1910 with a pale blue satin sash, long pleated tie at All white cotton with silk ribbon and lace: Three neck. Label “Ch. Drecoll, Paris, Vienne”. B-42, 529 JET-BEADED NET EVENING GOWN, c. 1912 camisoles, three monogramed split drawers L-57. (Chiffon lining mostly destroyed, large 1-piece black net over cerise satin having high and three monogramed chemises. DLM tag and splits to satin sash, some age toning of lace, waist short sleeve bodice lavishly decorated copy of letter of provenance, purchased from missing a neck tie) good. $800 - 1200 with beaded roundels, paillettes and fringe, a lady-in-waiting to the Queen Mother, whose the entire gown covered in a beaded diamond grandmother was Mrs. Walter Burns, sister of 525 LACE JACKET with ROYAL ATTRIBUTION, 1905 lattice, side opening and hem banded with Pierpont Morgan, and her mother, an American, Mixed black lace over cream taffeta and pleated roundels and fringe, underdress front and hem was married to Lord Harcourt, stating that chiffon with self ruffles, bell sleeve, decorated having a series of pleated chiffon ruffles. B-38, the items belonged to these two ladies. (Some with corded black and white flowers, hanging L-53. (Relined in polyester c. 1970) excellent. damaged ribbons, some replaced, few tiny spots cords and large black sequined clusters, hook $1200 - 1500 and mends) very good-excellent. $300 - 400 & eye closures. Larson tag indicates purchased “Paris 1967 Family of Marie of Russia”. B-42, 530 DOUCET EVENING GOWN, attributed to 521 LOT of SIX LADIES’ FANCY WHITES, 1900-1915 L-27. (Taffeta lining shattering, small brown spot JULIA BUTTERFIELD, c. 1912 Two white cotton camisoles with lace-trimmed on chiffon, few broken brides) good. $600 - 800 Cream net over pink satin over cream chiffon ruffles and silk ribbon, (tiny spot); one silk crepe and satin, having short sleeve, boatneck and de chine camisole with sleeves having lace 526 BATTENBURG LACE GOWN and COAT, high waist, embroidered in ivory silk floss in a bands, tucks, and fancy monogram, (lacking 1905 - 1910 pattern of scrolls and pale green flowerheads silk tie). Three white cotton petticoats: one Trained ivory gown having short sleeve, square decorated with black and crystal beads, trained with embroidery and lace insertion; one with neck edged in tulle, bodice trimmed with pale skirt, the chiffon layer edged in brown fur. cutwork, embroidery and silk ribbon; one with gold satin and a silk and velvet corsage, flared Label “Doucet 23 Rue de la Paix, Paris”, B-36, embroidery and lace insertion, (one torn and one skirt with train, B-34, W-28, L 56-65. (Lining W-28, L 55-68. Larson inventory states “Worn missing ribbon. Very good-excellent. $250 - 350 shattered, tears to the lace, broken brides, splits by the wife of General Butterfield”, no other to silk trim). Cream lace coat having oversized provenance found, but there were a number collar and bell sleeve with floral worked in of Butterfield notations in the inventory, most tapes, mixed lace fillings and trim, silk gauze are no longer in the collection. (Fragile, tears in lining, B-36, L-46. (Chiffon lining replaced, tulle, mostly on the bodice, sleeves very torn, stains, broken brides). Fair-good. $500 - 800 some bead losses, silk ruffles inside bust are shattering) fair. $400 - 600

74 Lot 529 Lot 530

Lot 527

Lot 528

75 Lot 539 Lot 531 Lot 534

531 FIRST LADY ELLEN WILSON’S BEADED 533 BEADED NET EVENING GOWN, possibly 535 ERTE DESIGN BEADED CHIFFON EVENING GOWN, 1913 - 1914 LUCILE, c. 1914 GOWN, 1918 Peach satin with an overtunic of grey silk net Cream floral-patterned silk having a tulle Black silk beaded in vertical lines of crystal embroidered with grey beads and smoked overlay, short lace sleeve, bodice decorated with beads, having short sleeve with black beaded pearls, the bodice having a layer of cream pearls, silver metallic threads, graphite bugles tassels, silver lamé waistband with self flower, chiffon with short sleeve, lace neck insert and clear beads, tulle waistband with a corsage diamond shaped skirt draping at sides and slit and wide satin sash. Label “Alice Maynard, of colored lamé flowers, asymmetrical tulle at off-center front with large faceted black and Washington D.C.” From Janet Arnold 1969 overskirt having bands of clear beads edged in crystal beaded tassel, pink silk under-bodice. cataloging notebook: “Purchased from President pearls, lace bow at back waist with streamers. B-38, L-51. Both Cora Ginsberg and Janet Arnold Wilson’s granddaughter, Santa Barbara worn Petersham label “B. Altman & Co.”. Lucile was felt dress was from an Erté design. (Some bead by Ellen Wilson”, newspaper regarding Mrs. known to have bought fabric from B. Altman. losses, one missing sleeve tassel, one tassel Eleanor Wilson McAdoo’s role in celebration B-34, W-24, L-56. (Pale yellow stains to lower partly detached but retained) very good. $800 - 1200 regarding her parents, photo of the First Lady skirt, small holes and tears in tulle, some bead with writing on the back, note stating mother losses) good. $1500 - 2000 536 PAQUIN COUTURE BEADED SILK EVENING had worn the dress, all substantiate this was COAT, 1911 worn by Mrs. Woodrow Wilson , B-36, W-30, 534 CALLOT SOEURS BEADED NET DRESS, Cream charmeuse having cream chiffon sleeve H-36, L-57. (Small hole and few snags in tulle WINTER 1916 - 1917 with a shaped overlay of black chiffon, sleeve overskirt, minor bead losses) excellent. $1500 - 1800 Sleeveless cream net over silk charmeuse and coat back decorated with crystal bugles and lavishly decorated with metallic silver lace, beads with metallic threads, cream chiffon collar 532 CHIFFON and SATIN GOWN BEADED with white, silver and crystal beads and pearls, wired and front edge cut away to hem, trimmed with PEARLS, c. 1913 hip panniers and back bustle effect, wired and bands of beaded chiffon, chiffon lining. Label 2-piece cream silk having short-sleeve chiffon jeweled butterfly ornament on bodice, long “Paquin Ete 1911”, back of label is inked with bodice with square neck and asymmetrical hem, beaded tassels from waist. Petersham label “91861 M. Parrish”. C-46, L-45. (Bead losses, lavishly decorated with pearls and pearl fringe “Hiver 1916-1917, Callot Soeurs, Paris, Nouvelle some black color migration to upper right front, over pink satin; satin skirt having an angled Marque Déposée”. B-38, W-30, L-47. (Some water marks, soiled at hem, holes to lining, chiffon overlay with wide pearl-decorated band. bead losses and breaks to lace, dress is relined, few small holes and faint spots to chiffon, label B-34, W-24, L-45. (Both pieces relined, some possibly some alterations). Lot includes a partly unstitched) fair. $300 - 500 holes and repairs to chiffon, bead losses) good. second butterfly ornament missing one stone, a $400 - 600 beaded tulle fragment, and a bag of loose beads, good. $1200 - 1500

76 537 WORTH BROCADE EVENING COAT, 1914 Oyster satin brocaded with floral urns in salmon pink, gold and silver, butterfly sleeve trimmed in gold lace over pink satin, the sleeve having two large beaded tassels, pink satin lining with chiffon ties trimmed in cream lace. Label “C Worth”. B-50, L-48. (Several splits to one shoulder although the majority of the silk is strong, one tassel detached, significant bead losses to others, large tears to chiffon) fair. $800 - 1200

538 PAQUIN COUTURE WOOL COAT, 1920 Powder blue sleeveless coat with overcape pieced in an interesting manner with curved triangular gores and darts, shawl collar cut as one with cape and coat, large curved narrow gores set in the weighted hem, blue silk lining having matching gores at hem.Label “Paquin Paris 3. Rue de la Paix. 3” stamped “ETE 1920”, and inked “65029”. B-38, L-43. (Surface moth damage and few small holes) good. $300 - 400

539 GOING-AWAY DRESS WORN by PRINCESS MARY of GREAT BRITAIN, 1922 Blue silk charmeuse having boatneck and short kimono sleeve, decorated with bands embroidered in blue silk with crystal and pale pink coral beads, self sash and blue and beaded rose velvet corsage at waist, self buttons at the back, silk underdress. The Daily Mail wrote on February 8th “Princess Mary’s going-away dress is in the soft shades of pink and blue for which she has always shown a preference, embroidered in blue silk and beads of crystal and the palest pink coral”, The Illustrated London News included a line illustration of the dress and on March 4, 1922 she was depicted on the cover as she embarked on her honeymoon. Her son George Lascelles, seventh Earl of Harewood, sold the dress to Doris Langley Lot 543 Lot 544 Moore. B-44, W-34, L-50. (Several tiny spots on bodice) excellent. $600 - 800

540 BOUE SOEURS GIRL’S EMBROIDERED NET 543 BEADED CHIFFON GOWN, 1925 DRESS, 1920s Sleeveless tomato-red silk covered in horizontal Lot 541 Detail Cream tulle having a series of tiny tucks to the stripes of tiny silver sequins, the skirt having collar, yoke and cap sleeve, floral embroidery, vertical bands of looped ruby-red bugle beads the lower skirt having embroidered floral swags set in a U shape from the hip, matching silk Lot 537 Detail with bows above an inset of fine cotton lawn, underdress. B-34, L-43. (Some sequin losses, the hem edged in filet lace, modern pink silk small tears at shoulders) very good. $500 - 700 underdress. Label “Boue Soeurs”. B-34, L-34. (Underarm stains, small tears, sash replaced, 544 BEADED PANNE VELVET EVENING GOWN, small spots and pinholes, browning to lace) 1925 good. $100 - 200 Sleeveless ivory A-line having extended back beneath shaped back panel wrapping around 541 CUTWORK, BEADED and METALLIC sides and attached by hooks and loops, backed EMBROIDERED DRESS, c. 1924 in blue chiffon, lavishly decorated with Sleeveless yellow georgette cut in a lace pattern polychrome beads and diamante with stylized of large flowers joined by brides and decorated pendant flowers and ovals. B-42, L 44-50. with silver bugle beads and silver metallic (Partial lining added, minor bead losses, missing embroidery, flaring from the hips with scalloped hooks and loops on one side) very good. $1000 - 1200 hem. B-40, L-41. (Lacking underdress, faint red stain on bodice, un-suspended flower at back 545 CALLOT SOEURS VELVET DINNER DRESS, c. 1926 neckline) very good. $500 - 700 Pink silk panné velvet embroidered with copper threads in a branching floral pattern scattered 542 NET EVENING DRESS with BEADED with pearls, sleeveless chiffon bodice with FIREWORKS DESIGN, 1924 a V-shaped band of pearl beadwork over an Sleeveless nude tulle, the V-neck and armhole under bodice of platinum charmeuse having an edged in silver-grey beads, dress having large overlay of grey net with couched metallic gold bursts of silver bugle and seed beads with embroidery, wide band of similar decoration sequined centers and pearl domes. B-34, L-50. at the hem beneath the lobed velvet with pearl (Non-conforming underdress, minor bead losses decoration, Label “Callot Souers Paris”, inked and darkening to some sequins, hem let down) on the back “69951”. B-38, L-43. (Minor bead very good. $600 - 800 and thread losses) excellent. $1800 - 2500 Lot 545 Detail

77 Lot 549 Detail

548 CHANEL 2-PIECE BEADED EVENING DRESS, c. 1928 Sleeveless voile having dusty pink V-neck bodice with dropped waist decorated with crystal, silver and graphite-colored beads in a deco floral pattern on a white beaded ground, slightly scalloped at the waist, black wide A-line skirt with allover meandering black beads and beaded floral repeat above a hem of Van Dyke points edged in crystal bugle beads, matching black jacket with black beads edged in crystal beads. Label “Chanel”. B-34, L-38. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Minor bead losses, later underskirt added) excellent. $2000 - 3000

549 BEADED GOLD LAME COAT, 1927 Collarless style with wide sleeve decorated allover in turquoise sequins, white and gold beads, and metallic gold thread in an Indian- inspired motif with figures, elephants and trees, having banded trim and side slits. B-46, L-41. Lot 546 (Few bead losses) excellent. $1200 - 1500 550 STRAW HAT TRIMMED with WHITE PIGEONS, EARLY 20th C Natural straw boater having green and white striped silk ribbon band with front and back Lot 548 bows, mounted with two white pigeons. Label “Roddy, 2. Bard des Italiens, Paris”. 10 x 12 x 553 FOUR STRAW HATS, 1908 - 1930 546 AGNES EVENING GOWN, DUCHESS of 12. Tag indicates hat was purchased from Cora One fancy-weave blue toque having velvet TALLEYRAND, 1927 Ginsburg. (Ribbon of a later date, possibly ribbon, blue embroidered net and cream roses, Sleeveless pink chiffon layered over pink trimmed as a theatrical piece, leather sweatband silk lining, 12 x 13 x 6. One black oval wide-brim charmeuse, decorated with bands of rhinestones covered in purple moire, some insect damage to with rounded crown, 17 x 14 1/2 x 4, DLM tag, across the square bodice top and strap, crossed birds) hat excellent, birds good. $400 - 600 (trim removed). Two having oval crown with front panels adorned with an asymmetrical raised center rib and grosgrain ribbon with bow: abstract bird ornament with large faceted jewel, 551 THREE ASYMMETRICAL STRAW HATS, c. One natural with brown ribbon and wide brim, long side streamer, skirt having four layers of 1911 - 1920 label “Knox, New York”, 12 x 13 x 5 (lacking chiffon in two lengths, silk underdress with Two having folded brim: One brown with light a sweatband, lining torn); one painted white two rhinestone-edged chiffon bands at hem. brown knotted silk band and cream ostrich with black ribbon, leather sweatband, J C Penny Label “Agnés, Made in France, Mme. Havet, plume, 9 x 9 x 8. One black having polychrome label, 10 1/2 x 12 x 5, (sweatband torn and inked Haute Couture, Paris 7. Rue Auber”, tag “#196 straw and silk ribbon embroidered wired brim, with initials). Good-excellent. $150 - 250 Duchess of Talleyrand Cora” purchased from includes custom mount, 8 x 10 x 6, (losses to Cora Ginsberg. Anna Gould, wife of railroad wire, binding and silk brim backing). One black 554 TWO BLACK VELVET WIDE-BRIM HATS, c. baron Jay Gould, became Duchess de Tallyrand- with high round crown, brim folded up at front, 1918 Perigord in 1908. She was a known client of secured with velvet bow, having large ostrich One having black silk brim binding and band, Havet Agnes. Anna Gould estate sale sale held plumes, silk lining, 18 x 12 x 7, (small break flat crown, decorated with blue and beige roses, at Lyndhurst in the late 1970s, Cora Ginsberg to straw at one corner, minor fading). Good- under-brim having ruched chiffon, silk lining, bought from that sale. B-34, W-30, L-43. (Minor excellent. $300 - 500 crown with paper tag, “RL Paris”, 14 1/2 x 3 mend and tears to shoulders, chiffon stressed 1/2, (tears to chiffon, one non-conforming rose); under one arm, small hole under the other, 552 THREE HATS with FEATHER DECORATION, one having a band of cerise velvet flowers with spot on back under-layer of chiffon, label partly 1914 - 1915 three buds, silk lining, label “Royal Borough unstitched) good. $2000 - 2500 Two toques: One having wired brim of Hats, Derry & Toms, Kensington”, purchased crumpled dusty rose velvet, the crown covered from Doris Langley Moore, 15 x 16 x 3 1/2. 547 BEADED SATIN GOWN, c. 1927 in Guinea hen feathers, cotton lining, 11 x Together with a black beaver hat with upturned Black silk with long tulle sleeve and wrap-front 12 x 5 1/2, (feather losses) fair. One tan silk brim bound in black grosgrain having three bow at the opposite waist. B-38, L-44. (Few tiny covered in various feathers with turkey wings, narrow grosgrain bands with bows, silk under- holes in tulle, minor bead losses, underdress underbrim backed in gold lamé, silk lining, brim and lining, label “Made in America...”, torn at one shoulder and hem partly unstitched) velour, mounted with purple-headed parakeet, includes custom mount, 9 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 5. good. $300 - 400 silk lining, tag indicates purchased from Doris (Label split and marked with glue residue, Langley Moore, D-15, H-7, (loose and missing forehead pad added). Very good- excellent. feathers) bird good, hat excellent. $250 - 350 $300 - 400

78 555 THREE GLAZED STRAW HATS, c. 1915 562 SILK TURBAN and TWO CLOCHES, c. 1912 One black riding hat with asymmetrical form, - 1920s turned-up brim, wired velvet bow and curled Black turban with tulle silk band having sheer feathers, 8 x 13 x 5. One brown with wide top, stylized floral ornament with sequins, elliptical brim and dented flat crown having pearls and steel beads beneath a plume of wide brown moire silk band with large bow, stripped ostrich feathers, 9 x 10 x 8, (some small silk lining and partial silk underbrim. 17 x 14 x tears to tulle, few missing beads). One peach 4 1/2, (lining repaired). One purple wide brim satin cloche decorated with metallic gold braid, wrapping around a cream underbrim, purple beads and tambour embroidery, silk lining, 10 x grosgrain ribbon band with fan-pleated detail, 8, (glitter on hat not original). One blue and gold interior satin band, label “A. D. Burgesser & Co., metallic brocade cloche decorated with blue and New York”, 16 1/2 x 15 1/2 x 3 1/4. Excellent. copper velvet ribbon, changeable silk lining, $200 - 300 label” Gayhart Models”, 8 x 9 x 5 1/2, (lining loose and unfinished, possibly not original). 556 TWO VELVET EVENING HATS, 1915 - 1917 Good. $250 - 350 One black with brim upturned at sides, slightly puffed crown, padded self band and back 563 THREE VELVET CLOCHE HATS, 1910 - 1918 wired self bow with silver metallic lace, circular One berry felt having small turned-up brim, buckle with paste jewels and small bow over draped in velvet around tall sides, 9 x 6, (some dyed feathers, silk lining, label “Brodine”, 20 Lot 550 wear and surface moth damage). One burgundy x 12 x 4, (some breaks to feathers). One grey with pleated crown set in a gathered band with velvet having wide asymmetrical brim pointed self bow having gilt and enameled buckle, at the sides, crown and inner brim covered in gauze lining, 7 x 4 1/2. One grey velvet and black and silver sequins in shaded squares with polychrome silk and metallic gold floral brocade stripped ostrich plumes, label “J.W. Robinson having a raised velvet demilune ruched and Co., Los Angeles”, 16 1/2 x 14 x 5, (one feather set across the crown, silk lining, 16 x 8 x 6 1/2. broken). Excellent $300 - 400 Good-excellent. $200 - 300

557 FOUR VELVET HATS, 1914 - 1918 564 THREE BLACK SILK CLOCHES, 1920s One olive wide-brim woven with metallic gold One with grosgrain ribbon, faceted black threads having rounded crown, brown fur band paillettes, topstitched brim, silk lining (some and pink cloth flower, brown velvet underbrim, glue residue in lining). One having allover silver turned up at the back, label “Wallace Importer, thread in a pattern of diamonds, satin band with N.Y.”, 12 x 13 x5. One black ruched and wired silver cord and sequin decoration, silk lining dome draped in copper and black satin ribbon, (some sequin losses, lining torn around edges). copper satin under-brim with velvet band, Lot 566 One with allover black bugle beads, sequins 12 x 5 (feathers removed, underside of brim and large plastic paillettes, label “Himelhoch’s discolored). One black with asymmetrical 560 THREE WIRED BLACK HATS, 1915 - 1920 Detroit”, includes custom mount. Very good- turned-up brim, DLM tag “Velvet hat from One wide-brim having overall floral lace on net excellent. $300 - 400 Sotheby’s”, 8 1/2 x 11 x 7, (overall edge wear). with large, rounded crown, dagged border with One black wide-brim with diamond-shaped jet picots, chiffon crown lining, 18 x 6, (few small 565 THREE INTERESTING STRAW CLOCHE HATS, ornament, brim bound in black braid, 14 x 15 holes, velvet pad added inside crown, feather 1920s 1/2 x 6 (some clouding of jet, feathers removed). and bird head removed). One tulle having oval One red having folded wide brim, painted with Good-very good. $250 - 350 brim, large crown with ruched topknot, band of allover random-sized white dots, some having polychrome cloth roses, lace veil and chin strap black details, single fold to the crown, red silk 558 OPENWORK STRAW WIDE-BRIM HAT with with side streamer, includes custom mount, 15 binding, narrow band and ribbon detail, 10 CLOTH FLOWERS, 1916 x 12 x 6, (several tears to tulle). One black oval 1/2 x 14 x 7, includes custom mount, (crown Glazed black straw having oval brim, the inner horsehair with wide-brim and squashed, flat detached from brim, pinned to mount). One tan brim a wide band of fancy open weave with a crown with sequined band, ostrich plumes and straw with fancy-weave overlay to brim, crown ring of colorful cloth flowers. Label “Crockett pom-poms, large beaded ornament, 16 x 13 x 6, appliquéd with silk flowers, colorful band of Moody Co.” 19 x 16 1/2 x 3 1/2. Excellent. $300 - 400 with large hat pin, 1 1/2 inch diameter with a 12 silk and wool flowers and fruit, large hat pin inch pin having paste jewels, (some clouding of with silk and metallic decoration, 10 x 11 x 5 559 STRAW HAT with NOTCHED BRIM and beads, feather losses). Good-very good. $350 - 450 1/2, includes custom mount, (losses to appliqué, GRAPE DECORATION, c. 1917 some splits to underbrim, hidden break in Natural straw having a four-lobed brim, 561 TWO LADIES’ VELVET HATS, 1918 and 1920s crown). One red with oval brim and tall, folded trimmed with looped brown feathers, rounded One emerald green panné with down-turned crown having red velvet inserts, band, and tabs crown decorated with glass grape clusters, cloth brim decorated with velvet band, pink, green to the outer brim and underside, silk lining, leaves, pink and blue flowers, cotton lining, and brown ostrich plumes, and a corsage of 17 x 14 x 6, (wear to velvet at brim edge and includes custom mount. 9 x 10 x 6. (Some losses pink and red flowers, silk lining, label “Caroline underside). Fair-good. $200 - 400 to grapes, one broken, some trim retained) good. Reboux, 23 Rue de la Paix, Paris”, 9 1/2 x 11 $150 - 250 x 8. One caramel plush cloche having turned- 566 PARIS LABEL WIDE-BRIM HORSEHAIR up brim, the underside covered in silver and CLOCHE, c. 1930 metallic gold brocade in a foliate pattern, having Summer hat of twisted golden horsehair ribbons a pierced black plastic band interwoven with having asymmetrical, wide, turned-up brim and copper metallic ribbon, silk lining, 10 x 10 1/2 gold satin band with bow, unlined, grosgrain x 6, includes custom mount, (few small tears in ribbon band, label “Copy of Agnes Modes, 6 lining). Very good-excellent. $250 - 350 Rue St. Florentin. Paris”, 11 x 8 x 6 1/2, includes custom mount. (Some seam separation) very good. $300 - 500

79 Lot 569 Lot 570 Lot 571 Lot 573

567 NEW YORK WORLD’S FAIR HAT BOX, 1939 570 BEADED DRESS with FISHTAIL POINTS, 1926 572 FRENCH BEADED COCOON, c. 1920 Large blue cardboard tall oval printed with Sleeveless peach crepe de chine having shoulder Pieced in black and white silk chiffon, the white World’s Fair logo and Adam Hats seal, inside straps and bodice top beaded in faceted front and back panels having overall crystal cardboard hat form, 14 x 12 x 12. (Some edge emerald-colored stones, crystal beads and pearls beading, the black short sleeve and curved wear, lid split along seam) good. $100 - 200 over silver lamé, the bodice having banded borders covered in sapphire blue beads, single pattern with crystal beads and pearls, skirt beaded button, wired stand collar with ruffles 568 BEADED PRESENTATION GOWN with having pointed fishtails decorated in the manner of black and white tulle, Paris label, L-45. Janet TRAIN, 1923 of the bodice top and swags of crystal beads, Arnold felt this was from and Erté design. White crepe de chine sleeveless column large fabric corsage to one hip. B-36, L-42. (Bead (Large areas of beads missing, tulle at neckline decorated in a floral pattern with crystal bugles, losses, large quantity of green stones retained, torn) fair. $350 - 450 milk glass and pearl beads with large prong- underdress torn) good. $900 - 1200 set rhinestones, slightly curved train. B-36, 573 GOLD BEADED and SEQUINED NET DRESS, L-45 with-30 inch train. (Shoulders torn and 571 SATIN DRESS with BEADED FRINGE, 1926 c. 1926 unjoined, some bead losses, several splits) for Sleeveless ivory satin decorated with pearls, Sleeveless gold tulle having an allover diamond study or salvage, fair. $200 - 300 rhinestones and beads of white and gunmetal lattice of crystal bugle beads, inserts to the grey in geometric shapes and bands of looped neckline and gored skirt of black tulle decorated 569 NEMSER BEADED and EMBROIDERED fringe, tabbed hem. B-38, L-45. (Very faint stain with gold sequins and beaded rose motif, skirt EVENING DRESS, 1925 on bodice, scattered small tears, 1 1/2-tear on has hemline of handkerchief points. Label Ivory silk charmeuse having sleeveless bodice back, bead losses, few small splits, piping at “Made in France for Saks Herald Square”. B-40, with front and back cutouts, full skirt gathered neckline frayed) good. $400 - 600 L-45. (Shoulders and neckline fragile, some into dropped waist with center point, lavishly holes in black tulle, lacking underdress) good. decorated with gold beads and prong-set $600 - 800 yellow stones, gold lamé appliqués and looped beaded fringe, layered tissue-silk and chiffon 574 BEADED and SEQUINED DRESS, c. 1927 underdress trimmed with lace. Label “Nemser Sleeveless black net having an allover pattern of Original Model”. B-36, W-30, L-44. (Bead losses, leaves worked in black and silver sequins, white faint stain on back, few minor spots, lamé straps and crystal bugles and metallic gold threads, to underdress broken and torn, snaps added, skirt flared with eight gores of black sequins, tears to chiffon underskirt) good. $500 - 700 serpentine hem. B-40, L-45. (Significant sequin losses, mainly to the gores) otherwise very good. $800 - 1200

80 Lot 574 Lot 575 Lot 576 Lot 577

575 FRENCH BEADED CHIFFON EVENING 577 POIRET BEADED and SEQUINED CHIFFON 579 HAND CROCHETED ENSEMBLE, 1927 DRESS, 1927 DRESS, 1928 White collarless jacket with 3/4 sleeve, the yoke Sleeveless pale pink chiffon layered over cream Sleeveless black chiffon with deep V-neck and outer sleeve having large-scale floral, lattice chiffon, covered in a purple sequined vest effect bodice covered in purple sequins and decorated band above hem of flower heads, matching skirt over a crystal bead floral and berry pattern with pearl and crystal beads, having silver with wide waistband patterned with a vertical worked with colored threads, waistband with bicone beads to neckline, armhole and in stripe, hemmed with flower heads. Larson tag platinum beads and metallic threads with scallops at the waist, over an underdress of pink indicates purchased in Paris, 1973, B-42, W-32, oval of bugle beads standing on end, the skirt satin overlaid with silver metallic and black skirt L-24. (Few broken brides, unlined, lacking has sequined spears decorated with crystal lace, skirt of sequined spear shapes with beaded closures) excellent. $300 - 400 fringe, chiffon ornament to one shoulder, non- tips separated by wide rounded purple chiffon conforming slip. B-43, L-44. (Tiny holes and gores over a black chiffon skirt with off-set scattered spots to chiffon, minor bead losses) sequined bands and beaded hem, waist and very good. $1200 - 1500 hem decoration studded with large paste jewels, narrow chiffon stole with two ruched bands. 576 BEADED and SEQUINED NET DRESS, 1927 Label “Paul Proiret a Paris”. Exhibited at the Seafoam green net over chiffon, having Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, sleeveless bodice with allover diamond lattice 1991. B-38, W-30, L-49. (Minor bead and sequin of crystal bugle beads and a vertical center band losses, some ruching losses and small hole to stole) with turquoise sequins and seed beads ending excellent. $6000 - 8000 in a low center point, flared skirt with allover beaded and sequined pattern, B-38, L-43. (Non- 578 SILK WRAPAROUND DAY DRESS, possibly conforming underdress, bead losses, some holes LANVIN, 1930s and tears to tulle) good. $300 - 500 Camel crepe with attached capelet having long sleeve cuffed with domed self button & loop closures, fold-back lapel, long self tie running through side slit, shaped self capelet top attached to a lace demilune. Unlabeled, couture quality tailoring. B-up to 40, L-44. (Missing one cuff button, faint fade mark on back) excellent. $300 - 500 Lot 577 Detail

81 585 FORTUNY STENCILED VELVET JACKET, 1920 Burnt orange silk stenciled allover with a geometric repeat in metallic silver and gold within a border design, short sleeve, square back neckline, single front hook & eye closure at hem. Label “Mariano FortunyVenise”. 45 x 30. Jacket exhibited in LACMA show “A Remberance of Mariano Fortuny”, 1967. (Silk lining scattered holes) very good. $1200 - 1500

586 FORTUNY STENCILED VELVET TUNIC with BELT and PURSE, 1920s Seafoam green having a repeating stenciled metallic gold pattern with bands to the long sleeves and belt, slit neckline with rolled and printed binding and silk cord laces with Murano glass beads at the tips, tissue silk lining. Label “Mariano Fortuny Venise”. B-40, Sh-17, Slv-25, W-36, L-58, belt L-45. Together with a Fortuny seafoam velvet purse printed with a metallic silver foliate design, edged at the top in silver metallic cord, braided silk drawstring and tassel with single polychrome bead, 7 x 8. (Drawstring frayed and broken, slight age toning, few light spots). Tunic very good, purse excellent. $2000 - 3000

587 RARE FORTUNY STENCILED SILK KIMONO COAT, 1920s Grey silk, extremely wide A-line with exaggerated kimono-type sleeve having a stenciled metallic gold pattern radiating from Lot 580 Lot 581 the shoulders comprised of Coptic design elements on eight panels joined with hand-cut coral beads creating slits revealing the magenta silk lining, sleeves pieced from four narrow panels, silk and metallic cord necktie with large 580 GALLENGA SATIN and VELVET COAT with 582 FORTUNY PEPLOS GOWN and CAPE, 1920s amber glass beads. A nearly identical example DRESS, 1922 Sleeveless champagne silk, front and back from the collection of Edith Teresa Hulton, 8th Topaz velvet coat having repeating spade panels joined at the shoulder with clear and Lady Berwick now in the British National Trust, shapes stenciled in gold, smocked yoke and white striped Murano glass beads, the over- Attingham Park, Shropshire.also see Brighton stand collar with self ruffle, two knotted velvet tunic has side openings joined with four beads, Museum Catalogue 1980 No.33. Label “Mariano buttons, wide sleeve with deep cuff open along beads to the hem. Matching chiffon and pleated Fortuny Venise”. B-82, Slv-39, L-54. (Fabric has inseam joined by three millefiori buttons, satin silk cape shirred at the neck and hemmed with a series of light spots in sets of four where fabric lining stenciled in matching pattern along matching beads, possibly later but a perfect appears to have reacted with beads, few minor the front opening. B-58, L-46. (Right sleeve is match. Selvedge label “Made in Italy, Fabriqué dark spots, several light stains visible in bright missing two buttons, loop closure at neck torn, en Italie, Fortuny Déposé”. B 30-42, W-30, L-60. light) very good. $8000 - 12000 front edge has 1/2 inch tear near hem, minor (Drawstring replaced, small tear at neckline, spots near hem, lining splits and tears). Topaz cluster of small spots at one side) good. $3000 588 FORTUNY STENCILED VELVET COAT, 1920s sleeveless satin dress stenciled in an overall - 5000 Ruby red square-cut sleeveless coat having a Medieval foliate pattern with birds, V-neck and gold stenciled pattern of botehs with banded back, side streamers attached and weighted 583 FORTUNY PEPLOS GOWN with STENCILED trim, notched back neckline, gold silk lining. at waist, self belt, B-44, L-45. (Large tears to BELT, 1927 Label “Mariano Fortuny Venise”. 41 x 41. shoulders, small splits, spots in hem area, very Cinnabar silk having short sleeve cut as one (Several holes in lining) exterior excellent. $3000 fragile). Dress poor, for study or design use with front and back panels, open along the - 4000 only, coat good. $2000 - 3000 outseam and joined with brick and turquoise Murano beads, over-tunic sides joined with 581 GALLENGA STENCILED VELVET CAPE, 1922 four beads and beaded at hem, matching silk Black velvet with a large-scale gold and silver sash stenciled with a foliate pattern in bronze. pattern of stylized fruit and flowers, velvet Belt stamped “Fortuny Dse.” B 30-48, L-55. stand collar supporting eight velvet petals with Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, wide chiffon ruffles folded over and affixed to “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Bead missing at the collar with metal snaps, collar closes with shoulder, neckline lacking drawstring, pleats three toggles, each with a pair of polychrome sprung under arms and a bit on skirt back) beads above a silk cord tie with beaded ends, good. $4000 - 6000 lined in black chiffon over gold satin, chiffon is stamped at the front with two large floral 584 FORTUNY STENCILED VELVET CLOAK, c. 1915 devices. Purchased from Marion Boughner Square-cut taupe velvet, the neckline notched at in 1978. L-48. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art back, stamped in gold with a border design and Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Two four large roundels to front and back, moleskin minor surface stains-one hidden by collar, minor collar a later addition, lined in orange silk hole in velvet, scattered holes to chiffon, some faille, possibly a replacement. Label “Mariano seam separation along collar) excellent. $3000 - 4000 FortunyVenise”. 41 x 50. (Some tarnish) very good. $1500 - 1800 Lot 590 Detail

82 Lot 581 Detail

Lot 585 Detail

Lot 586

Lot 582 Lot 583

Lot 584 Lot 588 Lot 589

83 Lot 587

589 FORTUNY STENCILED VELVET COAT, c. 1930 592 GRECO GOLD and RHINESTONE TRIMMED 594 PRINTED LEATHER SHOES with ANKLE Peacock blue silk, short coat decorated with SATIN PUMPS, 1925 - 1930 STRAPS, 1920s stylized floral stenciled in gold, braided silk Cream with gold leather trim having X detail Tan leather with cutout sides and ankle strap, neck binding and ties, ivory satin lining. Label at sides, rhinestone lattice pattern, gold straps, shoe front and heel printed with repeating “Mariano Fortuny Venise” and printed selvedge dark metal 2 1/2-inch Louis heel having small red scallop pattern, unusual appliquéd label. 60 x 38. (Some slight fraying to ties) rhinestone sets. Label and hinged ankle strap in slightly darker excellent. $3000 - 4000 “N. Greco 4. Rue des Capucines Paris”. Lot leather with red pattern, open sides, ribbon ties includes copy of a publicity photo for the with pierced and stamped metal finials. Label 590 VELVET COAT with GLITTERING PAINT Monsanto exhibition at Disneyland, “Fabrics “Gudés Los Angeles”, L-9 1/2 with 2 1/4 inch DECORATION, 1927 and Fashions Through the Ages”, 1965 and heel. (Very minor scuff marks, slightly stretched Ivory panné velvet with bell sleeve having custom mounts. L-9. (Minor wear, rhinestone from shoe trees) excellent. $400 - 600 an allover hand-painted grapevine pattern losses, some loose rhinestones retained) good. worked in polychrome glitter, wavy lines edge $500 - 700 the neckline, front, hem and cuff, silk lining, 595 TWO PAIR FLORAL PUMPS, 1920s B-43, L-49. (Minor glitter losses, slight tearing to 593 THREE PAIR GRECO JEWELED SILK PUMPS, One polychrome needlepoint floral on bone lining at back neckline) excellent. 400-600 1925 - 1930 ground having ankle strap with mother-of-pearl All having 2 1/2-inch heel, label “N. Greco 4. button and tall Louis heel, kid lining, includes 591 THREE PAIR METALLIC and BROCADE Rue des Capucines Paris”: One pair royal blue custom mounts, L-10 with 2 3/4 inch heel, PUMPS, c. 1925 having buckle with clear rhinestones and large (scattered small holes, soiled along back seam) Two lame: One tone-on-tone gold floral brocade square faceted blue stone, includes custom good. One gold leather printed with polychrome with gold leather trim, cutout sides with crossed mounts, L-10, (some staining to silk, 1/4 inch floral sprays, tall Louis heel, leather insole and straps and ankle band, label “Hanan & Son”, split, tiny hole); One pair grey having buckle lining, Label “Made by Andrew Geller New (one button missing, replacement detached, one with diagonal bars of rhinestones and square York”, includes custom mount, L-9 with 3-inch strap mended, overall tarnish). One pair silver faceted clear stone at center, L-9 1/2. One pair heel, (some wear and cracks, section of gold with pink and blue floral brocade, silver leather scarlet with DLM tag reading “Belonged to missing from one shoe, some print losses) good. T-strap and heel, label “J & J Slater New York”, Marchioness Curzon”, L-9 1/2, (tears to silk, $200 - 400 (evenly tarnished, small spot of silver missing soil). Fair-excellent. $300 - 500 from each heel). One French polychrome silk and metallic gold brocade with orchid satin trim, keyhole cutout and ankle strap with rhinestone button, Label “G. Nitulesco Paris”, (very minor wear and marks to satin). All with custom mounts, L 9 3/4-10. Good-excellent. $300 - 500

84 596 GRECO INCISED GILT PUMPS with BUCKLE, 602 TWO PAIR PARIS LABEL EVENING SHOES, c. c. 1920 1920 and c. 1925 Gold cut to natural leather in an allover scaled One pair Pinet bronze, embroidered with print, pierced floral buckle with paste jewels repeating medallions of stylized floral in red and Louis heel, kid insole and lining, label “N. and purple silk, T-strap with jeweled button, Greco 4. Rue des Capucines Paris”, includes cutout sides, instep band, white kid lining custom mounts. L-9 with a 2 1/2-inch heel. and insole, includes custom mounts, label “F. (Buckle and leather within buckle tarnished, Pinet Paris”, L-9 3/4 with 2 3/4-inch heel, small pale copper stain, soles scratched to (evenly tarnished, buttons detached). One pair prevent slipping) very good. $800 - 1200 raspberry and gold lamé floral brocade having ruched fabric vamp appliqué with pierced 597 BEADED PUMPS with ANKLE STRAP, c. 1925 rhinestone buckle and Louis heel, kid lining and Overall striped pattern in blue, gold and insole, label “N. Greco 4. Rue des Capucines silver bugle beads with pale pink and blue Paris”, L-9 3/4 with 2 3/4 heel, (lamé tarnished, seed bead trim, ankle strap, silk covered heel, wear to edge binding, brown spots on insole leather lining and insole. Label “Hong Seng, from nails). Very good. $400 - 600 Taiping”, L-9 with 1 1/4 inch heel. Tag indicates purchased in Paris, 1973. (Very minor bead 603 SILVER LAME SLIPPERS with RHINESTONES, losses) excellent. $300 - 400 1930s Metallic pumps having curving notch to both 598 FOUR PAIR GRECO PUMPS with sides, trimmed with pink silk ribbon, gold lace, RHINESTONES, 1925 - 1930 lamé ruffles and flower with rhinestone domed Two gold lamé: One rectangular buckle center. Tag indicates purchased from Doris (rhinestones discolored, lamé tarnished, binding Lot 606 Langley Moore and belonged Marchioness worn at heel); one having large faceted stone Curzon. L-9 3/4 with 2 1/4-inch heel. (glue marks in lining), both with 2 3/4 inch (Tarnished) very good. $300 - 500 Louis heel. One pair fuchsia having T-strap with rhinestone bar and circle detail, L-10, (tiny 604 THREE FANCY SILK COMBINATIONS, c. 1910 hole and spot on vamp). One pair pink silk with All having front buttons and silk ribbons: One floral lace overlay, (top edge wear). All labeled pink with floral embroidery, monogram, tucks “N. Greco 4. Rue des Capucines Paris”, L- 9 1/2- and scalloped borders, B-42, L-40 (cluster of 9 3/4, . Fair-very good. $300 - 400 three small holes). Two white with bands of lace: One having bow motif and ruffled pants, B-40, 599 HAND-PAINTED PUMPS with CROSSED L-39; one with hidden buttons and all lace pants, STRAPS, 1920s B-38, L-35. Good-excellent. $250 - 350 White kid having navy leather stitched trim, crossed straps with buttons, hand-painted in a 605 EMBROIDERED NET over SILK DESHABILLE, 1925 polychrome Native American-inspired motif, Peach chiffon having an overlay of blue tulle Louis heel, includes custom mounts. Label “F. E. with a tambour-embroidered floral in pastel Foster & Company”. L- 9 1/2. (Several scuffs in hues. B-36, L-41. (Tears and holes at shoulders, heel area, minor paint loss) good. $300 - 500 scattered small holes) fair. $100 - 200

600 TWO PAIR GRECO PUMPS with 606 TWO PIECES SILK and LACE LINGERIE, RHINESTONES and ANKLE STRAP, 1925 - 1930 QUEEN MARINA of GREECE, 1926 One pair bronze faille having cutout sides with Unlabeled, likely Molyneux, both with ecru strap joined to ankle strap, having pierced Alencon lace trim: One black chiffon negligee metal decoration with rhinestone sets and with sheer lace sleeve and patch pockets, B-42, rhinestone button, buttonhole reinforced with L-41, (lace has random light pink spots, 1/2 cream leather appliqué, L-10, (dye transfer on hole near pocket) very good. One yellow tissue insoles, one insole has ink writing and spots, Lot 592 silk sleeveless nightgown having triangular minor rhinestone losses). One pair mint green lace inserts and lace hem, B-34, L-46, excellent with pierced circular buckle having rhinestone Both purchased from Cora Ginsberg and tagged sets, ankle strap with rhinestone button and “Queen of Greece Marina”. She was a well- X-shaped straps at side, including custom known Molyneux client. $400 - 600 mounts, 2 1/2 inch Louis heel, L-9 1/2, (buckle tarnished). Both labeled “N. Greco 4. Rue des 607 TWO PIECES MOLYNEUX LINGERIE, QUEEN Capucines Paris”. Very good-excellent. $200 - 300 MARINA of GREECE, c. 1930 Both silk: One mint green crepe nightgown 601 THREE PAIR BROCADE and LAME SHOES, having tucked sleeveless bodice trimmed in ecru 1925 - 1935 lace, a tucked strap decorated with a taupe and One abstract patterned silk on gold lamé having green silk bow with streamers, hemmed with gold leather trim, cutout strap, kid insole and lace-trimmed scallops, unlabeled, B-38, L-58; lining, label “J & J Slater New York”, includes one peach georgette dressing gown with long custom mounts, L-9 with 2 1/4-inch Louis bell sleeve, the lower half having a shirred inset heel, (missing buttons-shown with pins, minor set on an angle, ruffled trim. Label “Modéle nicks in heels). Two pair with a 3-inch heel: One Molyneux, 5, Rue Royale, Paris”, Purchased having open toe and cutout quarter, ankle strap from Cora Ginsberg. Tag on mint gown: “Queen with a rhinestone buckle, label “L. Bamberger of Greece Marina”. Princess Marina of Greece & Co.”, L-9 3/4, (missing one rhinestone); and Denmark (1906-1968) m Prince George, one polychrome floral with gold leather trim, Duke of Kent 1934. She was a well-known cutout toe and rhinestone buckle, label “Saks Lot 603 Molyneux client. B-44, L-55. Excellent. $400 - 600 Fifth Avenue”, L-10, includes custom mounts. Excellent. $400 - 600

85 608 TWO APPLIQUED CREAM SILK 610 BEADED VELVET ENSEMBLE, 1929 NIGHTGOWNS, c. 1938 Sleeveless burgundy silk dress having ruched One slightly trained chiffon having tucks scoop neck and V-back, bodice top trimmed at the shoulder and midriff, appliquéd and with silver metallic cord, pearls and rhinestones embroidered with roses, self belt, (minor blue in a foliate pattern, shirred at the waist with marks on beltB-38, W-24, L 56-59. One appliquéd small center streamer, upper skirt with two self with daisies having double daisy strap, crossed ruffles above a full circle skirt with slight train; bodice bands and inverted scallops on skirt, self matching coat sleeveless beneath capelet, red belt, B-38, W-32, L-55, visible selvedge marked fox fur collar and high-low hem, back having “seta pura”. Excellent. $300 - 400 shirred fan details, satin lining, B-38, W-30, L 60-63 1/2. Displayed in Monsanto “Fabrics 609 CALLOT SOEURS DESIGN MME. and Fashions Through the Ages” exhibition ARGENTINA COSTUME, 1929 at Disneyland, 1966. (Under-bodice tearing at Pale apricot cotton voile having ruched bodice side closure, coat has some fur losses, missing with V-neck and back, short puffed sleeve with button) coat good, dress excellent. $600 - 900 ruffles, dropped waist, two tier skirt covered in rows of ruffles, heavy cotton under-bodice 611 VELVET EVENING GOWN with BEADED covered in voile. Lot includes Théatre Marigny BODICE, 1930 program for Mme. Argentina with the Ballets Attributed to Worth, sleeveless pale pink chiffon Espagnoles signed by costumer M. Nestor and bodice having overlay of tulle with a beaded Madame Argentina, with photo of La Argentina lattice effect in pink bugle beads, an appliqué wearing dress and page noting that all costumes around waist of tulle roses with embroidery, were designed by Callot Soeurs, dress is a white beads and tiny rhinestones, black velvet mixture of couture and theatrical construction. skirt with floating panels and large bow detail B-34, W-22, L-52. (Fabric torn at back hook & eye set in the waistband. Unlabeled, DLM tag closure, under-bodice is soiled and has spots, notes Worth label removed, a second tag notes thread attaching ruffles is disintegrating, many “Displayed at L.A.County Museum of Art, ruffles unstitched, several torn, spots at hem and Aug., Sept., Oct., 1969”. B-34, W-32, H-34, L-58. near waist) good. $400 - 600 (Chiffon has significant tearing, some holes to tulle, bead losses, one strap has unfinished tulle backing added) fair. $300 - 500

Lot 610

Lot 609

86 612 LANVIN COUTURE SEQUINED SILK DRESS, WINTER 1929 - 1930 Gold faille having sleeveless bodice with bands of tulle decorated with silver sequins and yellow prong-set rhinestones following the V-neck and U-shaped waistline, tulle neck insert, narrow strap, full skirt with inset bands in a sunburst effect, the hem dipping slightly in the back. Label “Jeanne Lanvin Paris” stamped “Hiver 1929-1930” inked on the back “28.649”. B-38, W-30, L 51-54. (Straps are torn, holes in the neck insert, splits under arms, some sequin and rhinestone losses) simple restoration needed, fair as-is. $2000 - 3000

613 BEADED NET SHEATH, 1930s Sleeveless russet tulle having allover silver beads to the bodice beneath a tulle crescent neckband, spaced to an ombréed effect on the flounced skirt. B-34, W-28, H-36, L-53. (Tulle torn at neckline, stain on bodice front, holes in one side of skirt, large tears in the hem area). Together with a 1925 sleeveless yellow A-line dress decorated with gold, white and crystal beads, overbodice creating a winged effect with floating panels. Worn in film “The Champ”, 1979. B-36, L-40. (Tears in shoulders, neck and waist area, some repairs, very fragile) great salvage. Both fair. $100 - 200

614 QUEEN MARY’S BEADED and SEQUINED GOWN, 1930s Pink floral lace decorated allover with pink sequins, pearls and beads, having square neckline with wide strap, V-back, tulle neck Lot 612 Lot 614 insert, narrow skirt with train edged in tulle,pink silk underdress. B-34, W-36, H-36, L 58-74. (Minor losses and spots, few loose threads, minor alterations in the bust to fit second wearer, underdress strap torn, mended) very good. Includes letter of authenticity from Katherine Seymour, lady-in-waiting to Queen Mary, dated 6 February, 1968. $600 - 800

615 WHITE SATIN GOWN with DIAMANTE, 1930s Sleeveless bodice having center gathers set between V-neck and inverted V-shaped seam, low back with Y-bar set between the straps, decorated allover with stylized diamante shooting stars, trumpet flared skirt with train. Label “I Magnin & Co. Importers”. B-36, W-28, H-36, L-57-74, dress has no closures thus a difficult fit for its size. (Soil and faint spots on train, few faint red spots on bodice, fabric has snags from diamante, few missing stones) good. $300 - 500

616 TRAINED SEQUINED GOWN with JACKET, 1930s Halter gown with dog collar in black net with allover black sequins in a subtle pattern of narrow Vs from waist to hem, trumpet-flared skirt with curved train, matching cropped jacket with capelet sleeve and lapel, single button at waist. B-36, W-28, H-38, L 54-68. (Dress relined, white silk band added to top of collar, minor losses, small area of sequins missing on train and lower skirt) good. $250 - 350

Lot 615 Lot 616

87 Lot 617 Lot 618 Lot 619 Lot 620

617 CHANEL COUTURE 2-PIECE SILK EVENING 620 BEADED EVENING GOWN, 1931 622 PAQUIN SILVER LAME GOWN, attributed to GOWN, c. 1930 Pale celadon silk decorated with stripes of white YVETTE GUILBERT 1934 Black taffeta having sweetheart bodice shirred bugle beads and crystal-beaded triangles having White puckered silk with a wildcat-inspired at center front, wide shirred strap, back hook sleeveless bodice with crossed front drape pattern of silver lamé, sleeveless with V-neck & eye closure with wrap skirt, full overskirt joined to back chiffon band, cutout back, chiffon and back, small lapels, back closure with self shirred at the waist with open front having belt with pink and blue chiffon flower and buttons flanked by roundels of white feathers cutaway hem, long wide self ties, pink chiffon streamers, gored skirt with three flowers and and stripped plumes, deep pleated peplum set underbodice, Label “Chanel” over inked tape flower to one shoulder strap, unlined. Larson in a V-shaped seam at the hip, trained fishtail “88182”. Shown at LACMA in 1972. B-36, W-26, tag indicates purchased in Paris. B-36, W-30, hem set with pleats in a lower seam, tips of train L-51, overskirt L-42. Excellent. $2000 - 3000 L-50. (Flowers somewhat frayed, small very having loops for hook at center back, Legion faint stain on bodice, lacking underdress) very d’Honour ribbon. Label “Paquin Paris 3. Rue de 618 SILVER LAME EVENING GOWN, possibly good. $700 - 900 la Paix.3” dated “Ete 1934”. Helen catalogued SCHIAPARELLI, 1930s gown as purchased in Paris from a Mrs. Gertner Lamé shot with green silk having scoop neck, 621 CHIFFON GOWN with DIAMANTE, possibly and having belonged to Yvette Guilbert, no braided straps forming a “V” at center back, VIONNET, c. 1932 further provenance found. B-36, W-32, H-38, L cropped overbodice ruched at center back and Pale pink chiffon having an abstract pattern 60-88. (Feathers mostly broken, button loops front with hook & eye closures, triangular front embroidered in pink silk, silver metallic threads frayed or torn) very good. $1500 - 2500 panel ruched into waistband over a second and diamante, sleeveless bodice with square ruched closure at center front, skirt back is neckline edged in tulle behind inverted scallops, 623 ENGLISH TRAINED CREAM and GOLD gored with a pointed train joined to a fishtail full bias-cut skirt pieced to the bodice with a EVENING GOWN, 1937 hem with finger loop. B-34, W-24, L 51-76. seam hidden within embroidery, matching scarf Cream silk woven with an overall metallic gold (Overbodice detached at one strap, hidden spots stitched with two large loops. Janet Arnold 1969 foliate pattern, slightly ruffled cap sleeve, pieced on bodice, seam separation, two small tarnished cataloging notes, “Purchased in Paris, 1967”, bodice with inverted “V” over crossed panels, spots on lower skirt) very good. $800 - 1200 Larson inventory attributes to Vionnet, no other surplice back, trumpet flared skirt with rounded provenance found, B-34, W-28, H-36, L-54. train, self belt and back bow. Label “Miss Ford 619 CREPE GOWN with DIAMANTE, possibly (Minor losses, some stones retained, pinholes Ltd. 41A Albemarle St. W. 1.”, attached tag SCHIAPARELLI, 1930s in bodice top, some edge wear, hole in tulle at with notation “Coronation”, possibly worn to Oyster white having clusters of prong-set neckline, lacking underdress) very good. $3000 - 4000 Coronation of George VI. B-36, W-32, L 57-70. rhinestones in varied sizes, long sleeve with (Light soil to train edge) excellent. Lot includes gathers to the inseam, V-neck and back, hidden copy of “The Illustrated London News”, May front closure set in ruching, A-line skirt with 15, 1937 with Coronation coverage (lacking long, pointed train. Larson tag “Gown of white cover). $200 - 400 crepe with sequins by Schiaparelli”, unlabeled. B-38, W-26, H-40, L 61-92. Exhibited at the Melbourne Art Festival, “L’Epoque d’Elegance”, 1991. (Rhinestone losses, small spots and tiny holes in hem area, few tiny mends to train) very good. $600 - 800

88 624 MAGGY ROUFF CLOTH of GOLD EVENING CLOAK, 1930s Floor-length collarless cape cutaway from gathered and crossed high neck closure, shaped with gathers below the shoulders, pink crepe lining possibly a replacement. Label “Maggy Rouff Av. des Champs-Elysées 136.Paris.136”. L-57. (Some tarnish, lining has a few spots, holes and torn in neck area, inner closure closure has hooks but no eyes, soil to hem) good. $350 - 450

625 SEQUINNED NET EVENING GOWN c. 1930 Sleeveless blue tulle fitted to the hip and decorated with a pattern of blue sequins, flaring from inverted scallops into a flounce of tulle layers over gauze and silk, patterned allover with meandering sequins. Used in the film “The Champ”. B-34, W-28, H-38, L-60. (Minor losses, zipper added, relined, a strip of missing sequins hidden beneath a non-conforming belt) very good. $400 - 500

626 JEAN DESSES COUTURE EVENING GOWN, 1950 Champagne satin having semi-boned bodice with square neckline and 3/4 sleeve, pleated into a band angling from the neckline around the V-back with a bow, padded bust, center panel ruched into princess seams flaring into an A-line to hem, full skirt set into the hips and back with pleats, stiffened hemband, crinoline underskirt, silk underdress. Label “Jean Desses 17. Avenue Matignon. Paris” over tape inked “7862”. B-32, W-22, L-45. (Fabric has stains, tears and holes under arms, seam separation at back zipper and hips, underskit back seam open) restoration needed, fair. $300 - 500

627 JEAN DESSES COUTURE VELVET COAT, c. 1950 Dove grey panné velvet cut in a full circle, having small shawl collar and circular yoke decorated with heavy grey silk cord, large grey Lot 621 Lot 622 pearl beads, baubles of graphite iridil beads, lined in pink satin. Label “Jean Desses, 7.Avenue Matignon.Paris”, over illegible inked tape. B-56, L-64. (Fabric has even overall discoloration apparently from storage, minor bead losses, scattered marks) good. $400 - 600

628 STRAPLESS TAFFETA and CHIFFON EVENING GOWN, 1950 Black silk boned bodice and full open skirt having fold-down collar over sweetheart bodice with pink velvet rose above button front, layered underskirt of cream crinkled chiffon, unlabeled. B-34, W-24, L-53. Loaned to LACMA in 1972. (Numerous light brown stains at chiffon hem mainly under the taffeta, mend on underdress, two small spots and a hidden hole to the upper skirt front, rose not original) good. $150 - 250

629 MICHAEL NOVARESE WEDDING GOWN with CATHEDRAL TRAIN, 1964 Cream taffeta, the long sleeve bodice covered in floral lace with sheer top and sleeve, decorated allover in white and clear beads, iridescent sequins and rhinestones, full skirt with slightly shorter apron front decorated with beaded lace appliqués, very long train with curved hem, labeled, B-36, W-26, L-59, train L-120. (Few small breaks to lace, tiny spot on skirt back, some soil and stains in hem area) very good. $200 - 300

Lot 625 Lot 628

89 90 CONDITIONS OF SALE

​The following conditions shall apply to the sale the articles contained in this catalog, and it may be amended by any posted notices or oral announce- ments prior to or during the sale, and represents the entire agreement between Charles A. Whitaker Auction Co., the consignor and the purchaser.

​The Consignor warrants and represents that it has good title to the property consigned for sale, free and clear of all liens and encumbrances, and that it has the right to consign the property for sale. All property is sold “as is” and “where is”. Neither Auctioneer nor Consignor make any warranties or representations expressed or implied of any kind including, but not limited to, the correctness of the catalog or other description of the physical size, age, quality, rarity, importance, provenance, exhibitions, literature or historical relevance of the property. No statement by anyone or anywhere, whether writ- ten or oral, shall be deemed such a warranty or representation. Prospective bidders should inspect the property before bidding to determine its condition, size and whether or not it has been repaired or restored. Auctioneer and Consignor make no representations or warranties as to whether the purchaser acquires any copyrights, including, but not limited to, any reproduction rights in the property. A premium of 20% of the successful bid will be added thereto and is payable by the purchaser as part of the total purchase price. Unless exempted by law, the purchaser will be required to pay all applicable state and local sales or use taxes on the total purchase price, including the buyer’s premium.

Auctioneer reserves the right to reject any bid. The highest bidder acknowledged by the auctioneer will be the purchaser. In the event of a dispute between bidders or doubt on the Auctioneer’s part as to the validity of any bid, Auctioneer will have the final discretion to determine the successful bid- der or to re-offer and resell the article in dispute. If any dispute arises after the sale, Auctioneer’s sales record shall be conclusive. Although Auctioneer, in its discretion, will execute order bids, or accept telephone bids and internet bids as a convenience to purchasers who are not present at the auction, Auctioneer is not responsible for any errors or omissions in connection therewith. On the fall of the auctioneer’s hammer, title to the offered lot or property will pass to the highest bidder acknowledged by the auctioneer, subject to fulfillment by such bidder of all the conditions set forth herein and such bidder thereupon (a) assumes full risk and responsibility therefore; (b) will sign a confirmation of purchase thereof; if requested; and (c) will pay the full purchase price therefore including the purchaser’s premium and all applicable state and local taxes, or such part as Auctioneer may require. All bidders shall be required to register with Auctioneer and, at the time of registration, present Auctioneer with identification acceptable to Auctioneer in Auctioneer’s sole discretion. Payment of all sums due hereunder shall be by cash, certi- fied check, certified funds or other funds acceptable to Auctioneer in Auctioneer’s sole discretion.

All property must be removed from the premises by the end of the sale day unless other arrangements have been made with Auctioneer in advance. If not removed, Auctioneer reserves the right to (a) send the purchased property to a public warehouse for the account, risk and expense of the purchaser; and (b) charge purchaser such other expense as may be reasonably incurred, at Auctioneer’s sole discretion, as a result of purchaser’s failure to remove the property from the premises.

The foregoing notwithstanding Auctioneer shall not be obligated to store or remove purchaser’s property. Auctioneer reserves the right to impose a late charge of 1 ½% per month (18% APR) on any sums due from purchaser pursuant to this agreement. If any of the conditions of sale are not complied by purchaser, in addition to any other remedies available to Auctioneer and Consignor by law, includ- ing, without limitation, the right to hold the purchaser liable for the total purchase price, Auctioneer, at its discretion, may (a) cancel the sale, retaining as liquidated damages all payments made by purchaser; or (b) resell the property at public auction, without reserve, and the purchaser will be liable for any deficiency, costs, handling charges, expenses of both sales, commissions on both sales, all other charges due hereunder, and any incidental or consequential damages suffered by Auctioneer or Consignor. In addition, a defaulting purchaser will be deemed to have granted to Auctioneer and Consignor a security interest in, and Auctioneer and Consignor may retain a collateral security for such purchaser’s obligation, any property in Auction- eer’s possession owned by such purchaser regardless of when Auctioneer acquires such possession. Auctioneer shall have all of the rights afforded by a secured party under the Pennsylvania Uniform Commercial Code with respect to such property and Auctioneer may apply against such obligation all monies held or received by Auctioneer for the account of, or due from Auctioneer to such purchaser. At Auctioneer’s option, payment will not be deemed to have been made in full until Auctioneer has collected funds represented by checks, or, in the case of bank or cashier’s checks, until Auctioneer has confirmed their authenticity.

Lots or property offered for sale may be subject to a reserve, which is a confidential minimum price below which such lot or property will not be sold. Auctioneer reserves the right to withdraw any property, cataloged or uncataloged, prior to the sale.

Purchaser releases Auctioneer from any and all liability by reason of any defect in the condition of the premises from which the sale is being conducted, except where the premises is owned or leased by Auctioneer.

In the event of purchaser’s breach of any term or condition of this agreement, purchaser shall be responsible for all costs and expenses, including reason- able attorney’s fees, incurred by Auctioneer or Consignor in enforcing their rights hereunder.

The conditions of sale as well as purchaser’s, Auctioneer’s and Consignor’s respective rights and obligations hereunder shall be governed by and interpreted in accordance with the laws of the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania. By bidding at the auction, whether in person, by agent, by order bid, by telephone or other means, purchaser shall be deemed to have consented to the jurisdiction of the state and federal courts sitting in the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania.

In no event shall Auctioneer’s and Consignor’s liability to purchaser exceed the purchase price actually paid. It is further specifically understood and agreed that purchaser’s sole remedy for any breach by Auctioneer or Consignor shall be rescission of the sale and refund of the original price paid for the lot or property, and such remedy is exclusive and in lieu of any other remedy which might otherwise be available as a matter of law.

Additional conditions of sale apply to internet bidders participating thru LiveAuctioneers and additional charges may apply depending on buyer selected payment options. These conditions of sale are posted within the internet catalog or announced elsewhere .

91