Volume 37 Taffys Lookout, Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park Issue 2 Autumn 2012 Wouldn’t you like to be here?

Fay’s horizon walk. Warrambungles. Photo: Ian Smith

John Evan’s party on Mt Yarara, ACT/NSW border. Photo: John Evans Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker From the The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW editor’s desk. . . Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 ooking back over the last few issues, it seemed that we hadn’t ISSN 0313 2684 had much in the way of classic Hawkesbury sandstone country for a while. So in this issue the front cover features a very nice Editor: Roger Caffin L spot near Cowan: Taffys Lookout, looking north out over Porto Bay. [email protected] There’s an unofficial track out along the ridge to here: it’s a nice little Graphic Design & Assembly: walk. From here we dropped down into the valley to the west and Barry Hanlon Proofreader: climbed up onto the next spur. It looks simple, but like anything in this Roy Jamieson area ‘some effort is required’. Confederation Officers: I will add that the COWAN 2nd Ed 1985 topo map I still use for this President: Dodie Green area has the lookout in the wrong place: they show it half-way along Administration Officer: the ridge instead of at the northern end. There’s an old survey peg in [email protected] Website: www.bushwalking.org.au the rock at the northern end too. Address all correspondence to: Anyhow, looking at the terrain around Sydney, it struck me that people PO Box 119, Newtown, NSW 2042 in Sydney are extremely lucky. How many cities have opportunities like this at their back door? The Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW Inc represents I had better explain the photo of Mt Yarara, on the ACT/NSW border. approximately 66 Clubs with a total John Evans had been walking the border, looking for all the markers. membership of about 8,700 He sent me a close-up of part of the old metal trig flag which they bushwalkers. found lying on the ground here. On it was my name in pencil and the date 28-May-1961. Was this me, he wanted to know. Yes, it was, and I Formed in 1932, the Confederation can sort-of remember being there. Pencil lasted that long? Blimey! provides a united voice on behalf of all Graffiti that old has got to be national heritage stuff ... bushwalkers on conservation, access and other issues. Articles for Publication People interested in joining a bush- I would like to thank the people who have sent in articles for publication recently in walking club may write to the response to my plea. But I got some good news on Xmas Eve. As I wrote last time - Confederation Administration when we came back from Europe I found that my network had taken a lightning hit through the local grid, and the main disk drive had been damaged. It wasn’t even [email protected] spinning. My Maxtor NAS backup unit had really weird software which simply deleted for a list of Clubs, but a far more the backup folder when I tried to access it from another computer. Thanks Maxtor! useful on-line list is available at the (Never again!) But some Data Recovery folk managed to get most things back - for Confederation website Xmas Eve! www.bushwalking.org.au, So if you have sent me stuff before August and it hasn’t been published, please broken up into areas. There’s lots of consider sending it again anyhow. other good stuff there too, including Anyhow, please keep those articles rolling in. We need them. Plain text please, and original unedited photos direct from the camera. If you want to include a DOC file or a the bushwalking FAQ. PDF (in addition to the plain text) to illustrate the sort of layout you have in mind, please do so as well. Please note that opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official opinions of the Confederation or any Club. The Editor’s opinions are his own, if he can find them. Roger Caffin Editor

Su b scri b e to T h e B u sh wal k er Keep u p w i t h al l t h e n ew s an d devel o pm en t s h appen i n g i n t h e NSW bu sh w al k i n g scen e fo r o n l y $10 per y ear. Th i s i s t o co ver po st i n g an d h an dl i n g: t h e m agaz i n e i t sel f i s free. Index Sen d y o u r n am e an d address an d ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder t o t h e Con fed erati on of B u sh - Wouldn’t you like to be here? 2 wal k i n g Cl u b s NSW In c, PO Bo x 119, New - From the Editor’s Desk 3 t o w n NSW 2042. Th e n ew ph o n e n u m ber i s 9565 4005. M ak e t h e ch equ e o r m o n ey o rder The Clarence Arch and other Backyard Treasures 4 pay abl e t o t h e Con fed erati on of B u sh wal k - Nav Shield 2012 - How can I be there? 5 i n g Cl u b s NSW In c as w el l : pl ease do n o t ab- Australian Alpine Walking Track in Winter 6 brevi at e t h e n am e! Ordinary? I don’t do ordinary 8 Pl ease i n di cat e w h i ch i ssu e y o u w an t y o u r su b- scri pt i o n t o st art w i t h . W e do n ’ t w an t t o du pl i - Growing up in Sydney 10 cat e co pi es y o u al ready h ave. Sierra Hiking 12 Round Mountain Circuit 14 Fron t Cov er: Taffy s Lo o k o u t , Ku ri n gai C h ase Nat i o n al Park . Ph o t o : Ro ger C affi n .

Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

The party on Michael Keats the Clarence Arch The Bush Club

Arch this was the southern end involves a pagoda climb. investigated. It The south end also is undercut with a proved not to be very pleasant ochre coloured, curved semi an arch but a cave. Taking photos with this feature leap over that included are very nice indeed. looked like an At 0945, we climbed down into the The Clarence Arch arch from a creek system below, noted the total distance. obliteration of the former campsite, and and other backyard Getting to then pressed on wanting to reach the Clarence Arch railway line near the entrance to Tunnel treasures from our No.7. At GR 413 912, we came across a position at the small section of excavated ground and a power pole rock wall that appeared to be part of an t was a fine, warm day with involved a descent into a ravine and then abandoned road. We pushed on down the increasing cloud; about midday a corresponding climb up the other side. creek system, encountering several hand Iseveral rolls of thunder were heard in The understorey was dense and the rock cut steps in the sandstone on our way to the vicinity, the humidity was most faces wet and slippery. It is the old story: view the western entrance of Tunnel oppressive when the intermittent light you have to work to earn a good No.7. It was unclear as to why such effort breeze dropped, and the temperature experience. We arrived at the Clarence would be made in such a remote place. It ranged from 18 to 22. The highlight of the Arch at 0906. To set the scene, Steve could well be related to an access route day would be our first destination, the pulled out of his pack a copy of an old for tunnel construction works. Clarence Arch. photograph, circa 1905, of a group of a After viewing the drop between our At 0818, GR 415 918 we set off down dozen or more hatted and suited railway position and the railway line, it was a well made and maintained dirt road. workers sitting and standing on the quickly determined that we were not This road is one of dozens that have been Clarence Arch. It was a great photo and going to make it down to the railway line pushed through to provide maintenance one we intended to replicate. What was at that point, so we threaded our way access for the State Rail 11 kV power line. even more interesting was that the photo back up the creek system to the track We moved on for several hundred metres showed below the arch several tents that terminus at the power pole. After a quick when Steve said that we needed to be were presumably worker accommodation drink stop we then headed west seeking a lower. After clambering down a distance, during the construction of the line and the way across the north–south valley and a mighty cliff was encountered, so we building of the tunnels. ridge system, and hence down to the retraced back to the access road. We then In the hundred plus years that have railway line that we needed to cross. At walked north to a track junction, and passed, there have been a few changes, a 1057, we came across a drystone wall headed down another similar road in a huge tree to the west has died and designed to provide a level area within an SW direction to its terminus at a power collapsed without trace. Where the tents overhang. Again, questions arise as to pole. This decision was also wrong, as were pitched is now a forest of Black why someone would expend so much Steve saw the Clarence Arch to the south Wattle (Callicoma serrata), and on the effort in such a remote place. Hard to tell and about 100 m away on the far side of a east side of the arch, multi stemmed but it appeared to be a similar age to steep ravine. Brigalow type trees have grown up and other stonework. Perhaps it was built by a Before heading off for the arch, we obscured a large part of the dramatic view railway worker who wanted to be alone. took stock of our position and noted that of the arch when viewed from up the hill. t 1148, we started a short walk up there were great views of the upper Given all those changes we still Athe bed of the former incline railway. reaches of Reedy Creek that would only managed a whole series of excellent This incline stretches for just over 100m get better as we moved around the photos showing the full extent of this (map distance) in an east west alignment headwaters. Also Emanuel and I both amazing natural arch. For the statistically at a very steep gradient. The incline thought we had seen another arch off to inclined, the arch is about 15 m high, 14 railway was built to bring in the several the west about 100 m back up the road, m long and about 1.5 m wide. It is easy to million bricks and other building so before heading off to find Clarence walk on and off at the northern end, but materials required for lining the tunnels.

Engineers quarters during construction The Dreadnought bricklayer

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

needed to cross yet another tributary of Reedy Creek. At GR 407 922, an inviting NavShield 2012 ridge to the east was followed. We were all rather surprised to come across a very rundown and seemingly abandoned tiny dwelling, complete with skirting rubbish How can that reeked of poverty and decay. We hurried on although there was little I be reason to do so. Almost inevitably, we came across another power line service road. This road there? quickly took us south towards our ou have decided to be part of that objective, the Porch of the Caryatids. Ygreat bush navigation training event for the emergency services Pagoda Land Predictably the road finished at a power pole. We then did a bush bash for about “NavShield” but you are unsure of Steve produced a copy of a picture of the 50 m to reach the Porch of the Caryatids. how to enter. You know that incline railway when it was operational. Forget the classical references, this is NavShield is a great way to practice This helped us to understand the rock an amazing and surprising piece of bush navigation in a friendly retaining walls and the occasional rail line engineering that has to have been a atmosphere and great location. You that we walked over as we climbed all the retrofit demanded by modern OH&S want to improve your navigation skills way to the top. requirements, to prevent the possible as you want to be a better bushwalker As well as the image of the actual collapse of the pagoda down onto the and not just a follower of others incline railway, Steve had a picture of a railway line. If the overhang had been through the bush. device called a Dreadnought. This considered an issue in 1905, or earlier, a Remember FOUR things. contraption was a form of mobile scaffold stick of gelignite would have solved the ONE, team registration is via the that enabled the bricklayers to work problem. As it is, at great expense eight website “www.bwrs.org.au” Look for simultaneously at several levels as they substantial brick columns have been built the NavShield link. You will find all created the arched brick structure that to stabilise a natural structure that really the information you need about would become the tunnel lining. The needs no stabilising. The bringing in of NavShield 2012 at this website from device was very large, bulky and capable men and materials to build these columns Event Rules to catering menu etc. As of being moved along as the work must have been a major exercise. We took in all bushwalks you must go as a progressed. Given the number of tunnels many photos, including a series looking group. You will need a team of 2 - 4 (10 in all) the quantities of all materials down onto the railway line. bushies for the ONE DAY event OR a required would have put a huge strain on nergetic Brian then suggested we team of 4 - 6 bushies for the TWO resources. Eshould go and explore the series of DAY (overnight) event. At 1310, we resumed our adventure, pagodas that cover the crest of the ridge TWO, it takes floods (as in 2005) to walking back up the service road to the to the south. This was one of the defer NavShield from the first full Mount Clarence turnoff and then turning highlights of the walk. From a height of weekend in July each year. Thus, in slightly east of north down the modern 1072 m, there are views down the valley 2012 NavShield will be held on July service road to tunnels No.8 and No.9. As of the western arm of Reedy Creek all the 7th / 8th. we walked down there was a lively way to Mount York. To make for a THREE, late entries incur penalties. discussion about Wilf Hilder’s delightful situation, the sun kept NavShield is a large event and grandfather, who completed an oil disappearing and then reappearing out of demanding of BWRS resources. Don’t painting of three of the tunnels, possibly the clouds, illuminating successive ridges, run the risk of a penalty. Please give No.s 7-9, either when under construction and at times the whole catchment of the BWRS time to process your team entry or soon after they were completed. The Lett. t by planning to register and pay before painting shows a completely denuded and the second last Friday of June (June raw landscape. I know Wilf tried on 1 Caryatids are female figures serving as 22nd). several occasions, without success, to try supports. The most likely derivation of their FOUR, don’t ask where NavShield to locate the spot where his grandfather name is from the young women of Sparta will be held. The location will be could have sat to execute the painting. who danced every year in honour of Artemis revealed one week before NavShield. As we moved along the railway line, Karyatis (‘Artemis of the Walnut Tree’) Bushwalkers Wilderness Rescue Squad Steve invited us to look up to the north at (BWRS - the search and rescue section an unusual sight. Perhaps 80 m above us of Confederation) needs time to set was an overhang under a pagoda that had the course without conferring any been ‘made safe’ by the installation of advantage to local teams. NavShield eight brick pillars. Irresistibly, it reminded will be held within three to four hours me of the Porch of the Caryatids(1) annex (maximum) driving from Sydney. of the Parthenon on the Acropolis in BWRS tries to make NavShield a Greece! Heeding the advice from Steve, friendly event with the course set in we checked the railway lights and having great bushwalking country. It is a determined it was safe to cross did so highlight for many emergency services smartly. We then had to walk up a personnel who return year after year parapet sandwiched between a railway to NavShield. Check points are line cutting and a steep flowing drain. It is deliberately set so that all levels of a right of way used regularly by railway bush navigator, from beginner to maintenance staff, but it is a bit hairy, experienced, will get good navigation particularly the section with no railing. practice. This right of way becomes a crude track Remember to register your club that joins yet another access road for the team for NavShield via railway power line. During this climb, the www.bwrs.org.au; lock in July 7th / sun poked through the cloud and the 8th as the NavShield date; register & humidity soared. We sweated buckets. pay on time then look forward to a The access road we had joined at this unique navigation challenge, point runs parallel to the Bells Line of NavShield. BWRS would love to see Road but below it so it is not seen. To you and your club at NavShield 2012. reach the Porch of the Caryatids, as Keith Maxwell, interpreted by State Rail engineers, we Porch of the Caryatids BWRS President.

Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Australian Alpine Walking Track, in Winter

Bob Manks, with notes by Roger Caffin

The party with some gear before the trip were not to be found. I have tried to can be just plain hard work! Adding to the reproduce some of the very grainy hassles of the soft snow were their packs: newspaper photos anyhow. To add some typically starting at over 30 kg per person. other views of the country they traversed I Some synthetic clothing was used, but have also included a few colour photos they also used wool and padded jackets, from an autumn traverse of the AAWT my eschewing only cotton. So much of their wife and I did in 1999. I will quote mainly gear was rather heavy by today’s from an article written by Bob Manks standards. They used food drops as well, shortly after the trip. I am not sure about allowing for over 50 days. the source, but it may have been “Ski “We left Walhalla in conditions that Tour 1981”. It was typed, not printed. There are a few interpolations in square brackets: they are my explanations. n Saturday the A training ski trip being led by Bob Manks “O15th of August, 1981 four fellow (Roger) have been asked a number students and myself from of times whether anyone has ever the Bendigo College of Idone the AAWT in winter, in the Advanced Education snow. I have only been able to find headed off from Walhalla evidence of one party ever doing the on an expedition that whole track, in 1981, and even then that helped confirm to us that trip did not go north of Mt Kosciusko. By although not great in way of explanation, at the time the AAWT height or grandeur did not go past the Tom Groggin Station. compared to European or A pity, as the next section to at least Asian standards, Kiandra is arguably the best bit of the Victorian mountains can whole track. be just as dangerous, The party consisted of five lads from terrifyingly beautiful and the Bendigo College of Advanced challenging as possibly The Crosscut Saw, autumn 1999 Education, and predictably they were many of the major doing an outdoors leadership course. The ranges around the world. it may be too were good. This soon deteriorated over party consisted of Jack Langedyk, Bob easy to underestimate the potential the next three days, strong winds and Manks, Mark Skinner, Andrew Lewis and dangers these mountains can offer. blizzards made the Baw Baw Plateau Tom Daniel. I was able to contact Bob This expedition could be said to be the more of a task than we had expected. Manks and got some information from culmination of two years work. It took Finding fresh snow down to 1000 m, him: mainly PDF copies of old newspaper into account planning and preparation, lower than we had thought it would be, cuttings. Sadly, actual original photos safety and skills. All were tested along the made snow shoeing difficult. The next route.” four days were also poor. On the night of In fact, travelling Friday the 21st August, we were hit by through the heavy snow which continued all the next Victorian mountains day making the descent down Champion in winter is made Spur To Black River difficult. However, more difficult by not as hard as the river crossing made on the relatively low a large greasy log which had to be altitudes straddled.” encountered. When I have walked down that spur in fine you get above weather in Autumn, and that was hard 3,000 m the snow is work. It’s very steep! Maniacal bulldozer usually good, but drivers, and straight into the river. down in the e reached Mt Skene on 22nd Victorian mountain “WAugust and were disappointed ash forests you get not to have skis, but possibly not as Descending from Mt McDonald soft wet snow and it disappointed as we were not to find a hut

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club we were expecting. Mt Skene offers Kosciusko so we beautiful clear tracks for skiing, gentle hitched up the and steep slopes and good views. An area road to Thredbo I would definitely visit again in winter, Alpine Ski Village this time with skis. and caught the part from poor weather everything Crackenback Ahad gone reasonably well so far. We Chairlift. It was reached Mt McDonald on 25th August. It windy on Mt provided excellent views all round with Kosciusko but Mt Buller and The Bluff fighting for well worth dominance over each other. Fine weather reaching as it provided unexpected problems - mainly provides excellent slushy snow making snow-shoeing views. It is also difficult. Seven kilometres in six hours is the gateway to all not exactly fast. We reached Mt Howitt on those NSW ski the 27th August in white-out conditions. fields just waiting A strong blizzard was experienced all this to be devoured. It day making the crossing of the Crosscut won’t be long Saw difficult. After three attempts to start, before our skis we finally made it but not without will be heading incident. We had just unroped when I north again. The Viking, autumn 1999 slipped down an icy slope 100 feet below. However, 33 days I stopped having fallen 30 feet [in] free- in a row with only one shower is quite Jansport dropped out of the tent market fall on the way. That’s life, thank God. Mt enough for one season. NSW will still be in 2010. Speculation, Mt Despair and The Razor all there next year as will Mt Skene and the fter camping in a large saddle had a couple of good tests for us but High Plains. I think a nice trip down by “Abetween Mt Buggery and Mt nothing instep crampons couldn’t fix.” the sea is in order for me, the Otways are Speculation, we headed off early only to The colour photo of the Crosscut Saw nice at this time of the year.” find the going tough as vertical walls of illustrates the problem nicely. You can A note appended to the article by one snow and ice blocked our way. After slide a long way down on either side: the Tom Kneen (an acquaintance of mine trudging up Mt Speculation, we began the side to the right is actually known as The from our Melbourne University slow trip down the other side, to be Terrible Hollow. This would have to be Mountaineering Club days) pointed out confronted with another trek up Mt one of the most exposed traverses in that 1981 had near-record levels of snow, Despair and the The Razor. The place . and that this usually meant that there was names echoed our feelings and the “We reached Hotham fairly worn out a lot of bad weather. We move on to monotony and exertion of climbing up but possibly not as much as Jack’s feet. another article published in ‘Adventure and then down like yoyos was wearing, They were numb, infected and changing Sports’. physically and mentally.” colour regularly. They had been wet for “As we travelled over the Baw Baw They also noted that the Barry Range, about 15 days continually. Because we Plateau, over Mt Erica, Mt Talbot and Mt notorious in summer for being very dry, had nordic ski boots the tops were soft. St Phillack, the winds became stronger was “just low enough to miss out on The snow shoes were designed to pull up and stronger. So strong, in fact, that snow”. They had water problems there as on the boot. Instead our feet were being despite our relatively sheltered campsite, well. These days there are some used. Jack’s feet were a mess, so much so the two Jansport traildomes [tents] we strategically-placed water tanks for that he was given medical advice to not were using were blown flat during the walkers, but you need to know where go on.” night.” they are as they are hidden. In the colour In another article it was suggested that The Jansport Traildome was a very, photo of our Barry Range campsite the Jack had suffered some frostbite of the very early version of a geodesic tent, water tank is just out of sight to the left. toes due to a broken binding on the snow albeit rather like a pop-up tent. I could We got there early, and had a washing shoes. This had meant he was tightening not find a picture of it on the web, but I day. the straps a lot to compensate, and this note that several other companies (eg If anyone else has done the AAWT in t had restricted the blood flow. Mind you, Kelty) market a tent with the same name. winter, I would love to hear about it. the design of their snow shoes was very old anyhow.

his was real injustice for him as “Tthe following 14 days were good. I only put my Japaras [jacket or overtrousers] on once. We picked up our skis at Hotham and had a delightful ski across to Falls Creek where we had our food drop. We then skied to Big River and then up to Cleve Cole Memorial Hut. A really beautiful trip. The weather was so good a nightime assault on skis to Bogong was carried out by myself and another nordic skier found staying in Cleve Cole. This trip to Bogong is still one of my major highlights of the whole Alpine Track. After Bogong, the scenery was not good until Mt Gibbo was reached. At Mt Gibbo the whole Kosciusko range opened up before our eyes - a magnificent sight. We then descended to the rich farming land of Tom Groggin - the end of the actual Alpine track [in those days]. A relief to reach it but not the place to end such a long trip. Mak and myself wanted The Barry Ranges, autumn 1999

Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Three Sisters Ian Smith - Grey Nomad in a Camper van

t was a nothing sort of day. I found it here on the edge of the cliff we only had Bridal Veil Falls and chose that option. hard to get motivated and only small hail. Wow, what a waterfall: I’d never seen Imanaged to travel up a few A couple of hours later it finally eased this Bridal Veil version before (there’s kilometres from where I’d slept in up and I contemplated moving. I decided another one over at Grose Valley) and Springwood. I got to the Conservation Leura Cascades would be the go and went today water gushed over the semi-circular Hut, stuffed around and then went to to exit the car park. However, I couldn’t rock formation in a spectacular display. sleep for 1 ½ hours before deciding to help but notice the police rescue vehicle On I walked, coming across another four have lunch. coming down the road towards the other lookouts I’d never seen before, including It was near the end of that, as I was two that had arrived earlier. It didn’t look Elysian with its unusual rock shapes. finishing my Tasmanian story for the good from where I viewed it so I went to There’s something quite magical about magazine, that I thought how ordinary find out what had happened. drifting mountain mist wafting and sliding the day had been. Nothing had I asked one of the police what the its way across the forest roof between happened, hadn’t done anything exciting, problem was and apparently there were sheer sandstone cliffs. It vanishes and it was so un-Ian like. Around then the walkers trapped in the valley by the flood reappears and constantly adjusts its shape light dimmed, noticeably. I glanced waters - a fact that didn’t surprise me. I in a mesmerising display. outside, saw clouds first and then couldn’t noticed a couple on the verandah of the More thunder rumbled, the occasional help but notice the number of cars in the hut and started a conversation. It turns drop splattered on my shirt but I plunged car park. The first lot of thunder rolled in out they were from Holland and they’d on, sure that Leura and safety couldn’t be and the lighting followed soon after. been caught for two hours between too far away. An hour passed and still Someone was going to be in trouble I waterfalls and felt lucky to escape. They’d signs pointed onwards; light, what there thought. The radio blared out a “weather been drenched. was of it, started to fade. event” warning (we used to call them They’d also been in New Zealand for Then I came across a Spaniard; he was storms) and said it might be extreme. the previous month bushwalking but, like slightly hysterical and obviously in a It hailed not once but three times, each me, they found it scenically beautiful but hurry; he pointed back and said he’d just about five minutes apart. Because you’re boring compared to Australia because seen a dingo and hurried off. I retorted closer to the clouds up here the lightning their forests are so sterile. They’d also that they wouldn’t hurt you but checked and cracking thunder was scary; one of spent some time in Costa Rica and raved the top ten worst storms I’ve ever been in. about the walking over there; they said I watched ice bouncing off the cars next the wildlife was fantastic; monkeys and door; somewhere nearby they were other animals everywhere. apparently as large as ping pong balls but It seemed to be clearing a little so I decided to go to Leura and ended up at Gordon Falls. I walked the 200 metres and 50 or so steps and was rewarded with a view I’d never seen before; not one but two falls though I suspect the second was ephemeral. here was a sign Tpointing to Leura Cascades so I headed off: couldn’t be far I thought as fresh thunder rumbled. Splish-splash along the track, over tree roots, slipping on mud and brushing past wet ferns I trudged. Eventually I came to a turn off for Leura Cascades Gordon Falls

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Then I finally got to the cascades after I’d seen at Gordon Falls had a dialect I well over an hour. My reward was a rush was comfortable with. of water such as I’d never seen here Finally, I made the motorhome after before. Usually there’s a delicate flow walking down the road and went over to that provides background music to the some other people in camper vans. sounds of the forest. Today it roared Naturally enough, they were from through the sandstone canyon and pushed Switzerland. aside the adjacent ferns in its haste to So I went and switched on the radio reach the valley floor. and learnt that the Katoomba Aquatic I went a bit berserk with the camera Centre roof had collapsed under the then had to walk back, this time along the weight of ice. The only real water I’d road where I hoped I might get a lift but been soaked in was sweat and I couldn’t all I did was have a brief conversation help think what an exciting day it had with a kiwi who was running by and she been! t ran here regularly but didn’t actually know where it was she ran. wondered where all the Bridal Veil Falls Leura IAustralians were. The first person I’d seen the previous that my tripod was fully extended, afternoon was from Chile and imagining yet another use for it other she loved the Australian bush than the snake prodding I’d done in and said it was so much better Tasmania. than in Chile because we had The bird life was prolific but every maps and signs, something time I went to shoot one there was they apparently don’t have. something not right with the camera; it She also said you couldn’t go didn’t stop me trying. I had been almost down the trail at Springwood within arm’s length of a lyre bird; had we both wanted to because yellow-tailed black cockatoos only ten water had closed it. Then metres away and wrens almost at my feet today I hadn’t spoken to one and stuffed it all up. local, only the English couple Yellow tailed black cockatoo

Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Growing up in Sydney Michael Smith

f you remember the 1960’s, you weren’t really there”. Fortunately I kept a diary of “Imy bushwalking back then. Thus I recall walk number 29, five days of bushy magnificence in the Blue Mountains. I was one of the rock climbers from all over Sydney who would gather in Katoomba, pool resources of ropes, slings and carabiners, and disperse to the cliff faces of Narrow Neck, the Three Sisters and Mount Victoria. By today’s standards, we were lucky to have survived. Leaders claimed a three strand, laid, nylon rope while the rest made do with a manilla rope. Helmets were unknown, Volleys were king. It was 1966, I still had two years of school to go. With four others, on a frosty Blue Mountains Saturday, I climbed ‘one hundred foot slab’ (Piton Gambit start). Then we moved on to ascend the first of the Three Sisters. For me, rock climbing was hugely character- building. I was constantly challenged, threatened. It was often necessary to drag from my body, prodigious physical feats to extricate myself. I learned to trust my life to another, and reciprocate by devoting my fullest attention to their welfare. I came out of it bristling. That night Rick Jamieson drove myself and Jim Gaffy to Kanangra Walls, saw us safely into the cave, ate a jelly sandwich and left. Jelly crystals were also a staple for my fellow walker Jim. A popular refresher was to be had by emptying the packet into a pot-sized rainwater rock pool, the lot to be sucked up with a length of plastic tubing carried for the purpose. On awakening next morning we investigated a cough and found two blokes and four girl bushwalkers in our cave, curled up against the freezing August crisp. They had with them a portable stereo record player. This was the famous dancing cave. Then it was off to the , over High and Mighty, Stormbreaker, Rip, Rack, Roar, Rumble, Cloudmaker and the baffling Dex Creek. Myles Dunphy’s Gangarang map was our guide through these Mountains. I was impressed with the detail and sheer practicality of the map. I would later become a surveyor, navigator, and go on to draw bushwalking maps for others to follow. My bony sixteen-year-old body was pretty spent by the time we made Konangaroo Clearing. It is the lot of a school boy to make do with the equipment his mother chose to buy him. Think cotton school football jersey and a sleeping bag filled with ‘cotton wadding’. Up went the borrowed japara tent among the wombats, cattle and horses. Next morning, on our frosty river flat, we discovered two chaps who were doing the same walk. We swapped contact details and for years afterwards they joined me on other walks and canoe trips. Even then the Coxs River was too polluted to drink. We followed the water upstream, crossing it shoeless many times, marvelling at the big trout swaying in the current. By dark a horse trail led us

Top: Rock climbing in the 60s. Centre: Across Kanangra Tops Bottom: Ah yes, the map

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

to Carlons Farm, home also to the dogs Baldie and Tess who we knew from previous walks. Next morning our stroll through the Megalong Valley was shortened when a couple of charming matrons gave the four of us a lift to Blackheath Station. We still had two days to spare and the 4 of us spontaneously decided to charge down to Bluegum Forest for the night. The scenery was superb all the way from Govetts Leap. Wild horses were still living in the forest and we scattered a few. Luxury, dinner was eaten in daylight for the first time that trip, under the blue gums. Our fourth night was spent in the rain, wet patches getting bigger on our sleeping bags. Last breakfast, in the tent, don’t touch the roof or it will start a leak, a slushy world of fog and rain outside. Pack up, don the cape groundsheet and dash outside to drop the sodden tent. We recrossed muddy rapids, now much deeper. Bridal Veil Falls was a roaring fury of mist and spume. The trip ended in the waiting room of Blackheath Railway Station where we waited 3 hours in front of the coal fire for something to clatter down the permanent way. By the end of the sixties Americans had walked on the moon and I stopped writing up my walks at number 50. t

[I still remember the 60s, and I (think I) was there. Cable-laid nylon rope to BS3104, Japara tents, 'cotton' wadding, and all- Ed]

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Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Andrew McRae, All Nations Bushwalking

Iceberg Lake s part of my job in recent years, famous John Muir Trail, named after the early in the hiking season great waterfalls I’ve regularly travelled to founder of one of the first can be seen. The Sierras is also home to ACalifornia. When people think of environmentally-aware outdoor clubs many lakes, small and large, which are California, images are usually conjured up (The Sierra Club). The John Muir Trail refilled each year by the melting snow. of hippies, movie stars, clogged freeways, starts at Yosemite Valley, and extends Climatically, California has clearly defined LA gangs, and stoned surfers. Whilst there southward for 340 km to Mt Whitney. seasons, with winter bringing snow and likely is all this and more, California is Many smaller trails traverse and interlink rain, and summer being almost also a state of great natural beauty and with the PCT and the John Muir Trail. A completely dry (though summer highly accessible wilderness areas. Most number of popular National Parks are thunderstorms can occur in the peaks of of these are in the significant mountain contained within the Sierras, as well as the mountains). The almost complete ranges that extend from the central north National Monuments and a significant absence of rain in the warm summer of the state down through the eastern side number of Wilderness Areas. One of the means hiking is a very popular pastime. In along the Nevada border. The ranges, very attractive aspects to the Sierras is fact, I have rarely if ever carried any wet- collectively known as The Sierra Nevada, their accessibility. From the Bay Area weather gear on my hikes there. The take in some of the most visited and (part of the greater San Francisco area), it abundance of snow-melt also means that scenic parks not only in the continental only takes 3 hours driving to reach the water is never far away, though filtering is USA, but the entire world. edge of the Sierras, so it is very easy to necessary because of the wildlife. The My trips to California invariably escape for a overnight hike on a weekend. altitude of the Sierras is also something include some visit to the Sierras - in It is clear that glacial action was the one has to be aware of, with some high winter time, when I snowboard in the ski primary force that shaped these passes topping 4000 m (13,000 feet). resorts around Lake Tahoe, or in warmer mountains; they are many deep carved Once above the tree line the white granite times, when I have undertaken hikes valleys, U-shaped hanging valleys, glacial can reflect the warm sun, so walkers have throughout many parts of the Sierras, cols etc. The rock is mostly white hard be mindful of not having a combination of ranging from Trinity Alps in the north to granite, easy to walk on, but definitely heat and altitude (and jetlag!) causing Mineral Springs in the south near Mt harsher on the footware than we are used dehydration or other issues. Whitney. to here in Australia with our softer ildlife is also common in these The Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) is a long sandstone. The Sierras experience a Wparts, though not as much as one distance trail that runs along the Sierras significant winter snowpack, so in the would think. Most people think and the Cascade Range (and further spring and summer there are many immediately of bears (much as visitors to north). The PCT also encompasses the that are swollen with snow-melt, and Australia focus on sharks and venomous

Large Bear Cathedral Peak

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Mist Falls Aspens in autumn crawlies), but California is fortunate to are bear-proof. At night these containers as chipmunks, squirrels, deer (white-tail), only have Black and Brown Bears - there are stored away from the campsite so and more rarely marmot and coyotes. I are no Grizzly Bears. Californian bears are bears are not attracted to tents. Back- have only seen rattlesnakes twice, and best thought of as 200 kg possums, which country campsites may also have bear they at least are polite enough (unlike the really just want to raid your gear for food. lockers, large metal containers where Australian snakes) to clearly signal their Hikers are required to store any food or campers can store their food. I have seen presence audibly, so there are rarely any consumables such as toothpaste in Bear far fewer bears than I expected to. issues with them. I would dearly love to Canisters, strong plastic containers that Other wildlife is commonly seen, such see a Mountain Lion in the wild, but these

Volume 37, Issue 2, Autumn 2012 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Round Mountain Circuit

Paul Ellis, Shoalhaven Bushwalkers, Canberra Bushwalkers

was up at 6.00 am to meet some Most of the trees were scribbly gums I removed my thermal top while they members of the Canberra but it was the lower growing ti tree cogitated. Bushwalking Club at the intersection (Melaleuca) that caused the going to be We followed the cliff line to the east, I rough. The ground was wet and soggy to find a way down about 300 metres of Nerriga Road and Endrick Road. These were all off-track walkers who regularly from the recent rain. There were minor away. A steep gully that we negotiated (normally dry) rivulets to cross, which we carefully but with little difficulty to the walked in excess of 20 km and scaled managed easily. The 1880s water race raging torrent that was Running Creek. ascents of more than 500 metres on a was pointed out: built for the gold fields This is normally a little trickle, but now typical walk so I knew I was in for a rough but not used as they failed to build the was quite loud. We found a suitable day. Most of these walkers were also aged dam on nearby Sallee Creek for the water crossing spot with some large rocks and in their late 60s to mid 70s and were as fit supply. It's over 20 km long and on the safely crossed with the aid of sticks, as mallee bulls. 600 m contour, one of many in the area. trekking poles and the helping hand of Recent rainfall had swollen the nearby Ascending a small ridge the country Max. We scrambled up the other side of Endrick River, altering the itinerary. A opened up and the going was much the gorge onto the rocky scrub-covered scrub bash to the western cliff edge of easier. It was nice and quiet here, save for plateau for a drink break. Round Mountain and try to find a way to the breeze in the tree tops, the call of oving off we seemed to head off in the top, down the eastern side to the fire nearby Kookaburras and the chatter of my Mthe wrong direction, away from trail, check out the Endrick River and walking companions. At the top of a short Round Mountain, but we were in fact return to the cars via Stone Cottage (once rise (GR 394062) our leader stopped avoiding more scrambling. Our route took known as Michael Dowling’s Hut). From suddenly, confusion on his face. When I us in a kind of arc where we crossed more the locked gate on Meangora Road we set caught up I realised why: a sheer drop to of the water race, sections of it still filled off down the nearby Alum Fire Trail for ‘Running Creek’ below. The area was one with rain water. We also saw many about 200 m before we headed off in a large deep gorge; to the east we could see wombat burrows flooded out. The south-westerly direction through the thick the cliff tops of our destination, Round vegetation on this side resembled more bush. Mountain. the heathland found on Little Forest creatures are evidently quite shy, and Desolation Wilderness is an area west leaves shimmering in the sun - hence they normally keep well away from hikers. of Lake Tahoe that I have hiked several are also known as Trembling Aspens. Several areas I have hiked in are times, and it has great lakes and Further south, the John Muir Trail especially memorable. Trinity Alps in the mountains with easy access. The north passes through the Kings Canyon and North part of the state is a relatively section of the Sierras has lower altitude, Sequoia National parks, home to the unvisited area, but abounds in alpine making the passes easier to cross. The Giant Redwoods. These parks receive a lakes; most of these lakes are shallow and Pacific Crest Trail traverses this area. large number of visitors, but hikers can warm in summer, so are great for he Eastern (Nevada) side of the easily walk up the valleys into the swimming. In other parts of the TSierras is known for its aspens, which backcountry areas where the Trail crosses mountains the lakes are often colder, in late autumn turn a wonderful gold several High Passes. The Rae Lakes loop is which makes for a refreshing but colour; in a breeze, the leaves will shake one such walk, a 4 day circuit (that I did sometimes brisk dip. slightly, giving the impression of the in 3 days) that takes in rugged back country valleys with extensive lakes above the tree line, with some High Passes thrown in. Around Yosemite Valley there are many trails, some of which take you up into the high country around Cathedral Peak and Tuolumne Meadows, great for getting away from the day crowds in the most popular National Park in the world. So the Sierras give an almost perfect combination for hikers - seasonally predictable good weather, lots of water, fabulous views, great mountains, easy access, and a large range of tracks to avoid overcrowding. I can highly recommend it for any walker! t Looking down the valley

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Plateau and the trees were more Sassafras ‘negotiable route’ and Turpentine than the scribbly gums. steeply uphill on We seemed to be following a negotiable the north side of a route across this plateau and soon we deep gully. The found ourselves standing on an earthen ascent was tiring ridge (GR 399061) that just did not look and since I hadn’t natural. Long and thin and about 2 metres done much high, it resembled a defensive barrier bushwalking around an English castle. It was obviously recently I found built around the same time as the water myself huffing and race, but nobody knew why. puffing and falling p hill through light forest, the ground behind. Thankfully Ucover and fallen timber doing its best the others patiently to trip us over, to open forest. We waited for me to stopped for a 10 minute morning tea catch up. break at a clearing (GR 401054). We We battled thick were still a fair distance from Round melaleuca after Mountain. We soon noticed house-sized passing a recently rocks to our left - obviously chunks of the used rock overhang Round Mountain cliffs. One large moss and finally stepped covered rock resembled a house: a square out onto some open shape with a peaked roof. The scrub got rock shelves and thicker as we ascended: a constant battle ascended to an though thick ferns that sometimes hid open rock platform fallen logs that bashed the shins if you on Round were careless. Mountain’s north east side. We found We followed a track a way, possibly an We finally reached the foot of the cliffs another stone cairn where we stopped for animal pad, but with some orange plastic on Round Mountain’s western flank (GR a 25 minute lunch break at 12:50 pm (GR markers on the trees. Then we turned 409038) and followed them looking for a 410044). The views from here were quite away from the markers (worry!) and possible route to the top. We made our splendid. To the east, massive cliff lines started scrub bashing again gently way south through fern-covered and Quiltys Mountain; to the north, downhill towards Running Creek, albeit overhangs and past cascades of water. Sassafras Plateau; to the west, the plains not to the same place we crossed this The towering cliffs had were impressive in towards Tarago and wind farms. It was morning. We suddenly came out onto an hues of ochre, red and grey. Some of the quite cold up here despite the sun. I put open fire trail overhangs were excellent camping caves on my new down parka while I enjoyed (GR 397071) just above where and had fireplaces of loose stones. One cheese and salami tortillas. Running Creek joins the Endrick River. had a cascade of water falling to a large After lunch we went for an Most of my companions were concerned pool. We came across another cave where unsuccessful exploratory across the top of about how deep the water was, but all I the roof had collapsed very recently. the mountain, hoping to get views to the could think about was topping up my Rainwater had seeped in and weakened a south, but the high heath was near water bag. The water was not deep, fault in the rock until it all failed. impossible to break through. We did find coming up to my boot laces. Before we realised it we were standing the official top of the mountain with the didn’t know that Michael Dowling’s at the southern end of Round Mountain remains of an old cairn (GR 412041). We Ihut (now Stone House B&B) was only (GR 412035). There had been no route to also found a stone arrangement like at the about 800 metres behind me: maybe next the top unless we become mountain Bora Ground atop Quiltys Mountain. It time. It had been a long day and I was climbers. We decided to go to the eastern resembled a fish but was deemed a fake certainly getting tired, but happy to have side and use the track there. We as it was not there several years ago. got a decent strenuous walk in for a descended the ridge to Round Mountain ack to the fire trail and head north. change. Finally, at 4.35 pm a familiar blue Fire Trail and went northwards for several BTime did not let us walk down to the gate with some familiar vehicles hundred metres. The fire trail was more Endrick River. Instead, we cut away from appeared. Fresh clothes, remove boots off like a creek than a track. the main trail (GR 416052) and bashed to the nearby Nerriga Pub for a refreshing After about 1 km we came to a small our way west to link up with our inwards lemonade. t cairn on the side of the trail (GR 416045), route. The country here was relatively flat marking the now non-existent track up to and the forest open, but with much fallen the top of Round Mountain. We took a timber. We trudged on and on, and when we stopped for a drink my GPS said we weren’t far from where we’d had our morning tea break. A quick stroll through some thick countryside suddenly found us standing on the earth work we had found this morning (GR 399061). We stopped for afternoon tea and I found I had less than a mouthful of water left in my 3 litre hydration bag. I hoped we would be crossing Running Creek again and soon.

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