BRADLEY MAYHEW 4 20 TOP EXPERIENCES

Mt Kailash, Western Worshipped by more than a billion Buddhists and Hindus, Asia’s most sacred mountain (p 175 ) 1 rises from the Barkha plain like a giant four-sided 6714m chörten. Throw in the stunning nearby and a basin that forms the source of four of Asia’s greatest rivers, and who’s to say this place really isn’t the centre of the world? Travel here to one of the world’s most beautiful and remote corners brings an added bonus: the three-day pilgrim path around the mountain erases the sins of a lifetime. , 5 There are moments in travel that will long stay with you – and your fi rst view of the iconic 2 Potala Palace (p 52 ) is one such moment. Even surrounded by a sea of Chinese development, the towering, mysterious building dominates Lhasa; it’s simply hard to take your eyes off the thing. A visit to the former home of the Dalai is a spiralling descent past gold-tombed chapels, reception rooms and prayer halls into the bowels of a medieval castle. It’s nothing less than the concentrated spiritual and material wealth of a nation. KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI Temple, Lhasa The atmosphere of hushed awe is what hits you fi rst as you inch through the dark, medieval 3 passageways of the Jokhang (p 45 ). Queues of wide-eyed pilgrims shuffl e up and down the stairways, past medieval doorways and millennium-old murals, pausing briefl y to top up the hundreds of lamps that fl icker in the gloom. It’s the beating spiritual heart of Tibet. Welcome to the 14th century. DENNIS WALTON

Views of Mt Everest Don’t tell the Tourism Board, but Tibet has easily the best views of the world’s most 4 famous mountain (p 154 ). While two-week-long trekking routes on the Nepal side off er up only occasional fl eeting glimpses of the peak, the view of Mt Everest’s unobstructed north face framed in the prayer fl ags of Rongphu Monastery or from a tent at the Base Camp will stop you in your tracks. MICHAEL KOHN TIM HUGHES

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Samye Monastery Tibet’s fi rst monastery (p 114 ) is 5 a heavily symbolic collection of chapels, chörtens and shrines arranged around a medieval Tibetan-, Chinese- and Indian-style temple called the Ütse. The 1200-year-old site is where Guru battled demons to introduce to Tibet and where the future course of was sealed in a great debate. The location on the desert-like banks of the is also superb. MERTEN SNIJDERS Riding the Rails to Lhasa For all its faults, ’s railway 6 to Tibet (the world’s highest) is an engineering wonder and a delightful way to reach the holy city. Pull up a window seat to view huge salt lakes, plains dotted with and herders’ tents, and hundreds of miles of desolate nothing, as you inch slowly up onto the high plateau. Peaking at 5072m may send you diving for the piped oxygen, but it’s still a classic rail trip (p 356 ).

Yak-Butter JULIET COOMBE Some people prefer to call it 7 ‘soup’, others liken it to brewed socks and sump oil. However you describe it, your fi rst mouthful of - butter tea (p 339 ) is the signal that you have fi nally reached Tibet. Our favourite thing about the Tibetan national is the view from the rim: a monk’s quarters, a herder’s yak-hair tent or a full of card-playing Tibetan cowboys. Defi nitely our cup of tea… 8 Sera & Drepung Monasteries, Lhasa Saga Dawa Festival Lhasa’s great religious institutions of The line between tourist and pilgrim can 8 Sera (p 83 ) and Drepung (p 78 ) are more 9 be a fi ne one in Tibet, none more so than than just monasteries – they are self- during the Saga Dawa Festival (p 22 ), when contained towns. A web of whitewashed thousands of pilgrims pour into Lhasa to visit alleyways climbs past medieval kitchens, the city and make a ritual procession around printing presses and colleges to reach giant the 8km Lingkhor path. Load up on small bills prayer halls full of chanting, tea-sipping and juniper incense before joining the pilgrims red-robed monks. Don’t miss the afternoon past chapels and points, or travel debating, an extravagant spectator sport of west to Mt Kailash for the mountain’s biggest Buddhist dialectics and hand slapping. annual party.

KEREN SU BILL WASSMAN IMAGEBROKER/OLAF SCHUBERT

9 Kingdom, Western Tibet The spectacular lost kingdom 10 of Guge (p 180 ) at is quite unlike anything you’ll see in central Tibet; it feels more like than Lhasa . There comes a point when you are lowering yourself down a hidden sandstone staircase or crawling through an inter- connected cave complex that you stop and think: ‘This is incredible!’ What’s really amazing is that you’ll likely have the half-forgotten ruins to yourself. Rank this as one of Asia’s great travel secrets. KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI A two hour-drive from Lhasa 11 takes you to the stunning location of Ganden (p 89 ), set in a natural bowl high above the braided Kyi-chu Valley. Brought back to life after nearly total destruction in the , the collection of restored chapels centres on Tsongkhapa’s tomb, and off ers a delightful kora path that will soon have you breathing hard from the altitude.

Ganden– Trek MERTEN SNIJDERS Tibet is one of those places 12 you really should experience at the pace of one foot in front of the other. This classic four-day trek (p 237 ) between two of Tibet’s best monasteries takes you past herders’ camps, high alpine lakes and a Guru Rinpoche hermitage, as well as over three 5000m-plus passes. Hire a horse for a wonderful wilderness trek, with just the marmots for company. Nam-tso Just a few hours north of Lhasa, spectacular Nam-tso (p 101) epitomises the dramatic but 13 harsh scenery of northern Tibet. This deep blue lake is fringed by prayer fl ag–draped hills, craggy cliff s and nesting migratory birds, all framed by a horizon of 7000m peaks. It’s cold, increasingly developed and devastatingly beautiful. NICHOLAS REUSS

Gyantse The giant chörten at (p 132 ) is unique in the Himalayas. As you spiral around and 14 up the snail shell–shaped building, you pass dozens of alcoves full of serene painted buddhas, bloodthirsty demons and unrivalled . Finally you pop out onto the golden eaves, underneath all-seeing eyes, for fabulous views of Gyantse fort and old town. TIM HUGHES BRADLEY MAYHEW

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Riwoche Tsuglhakhang, Eastern Tibet Tibet is large enough to hold 15 some hidden wonders. You’ll have to overland for days to reach it and then haggle with the caretakers to let you in, but this dramatic, towering and remote temple (p 209 ) in eastern Tibet feels like it’s marooned in an earlier age. Enjoy the fact that you’re among only a handful of foreigners to see it.

Adding Your Prayer MERTEN SNIJDERS Flags to a High Pass Crossing a spectacular high 16 pass, fl uttering with prayer fl ags, to view an awesome line of Himalayan peaks is an almost daily experience in Tibet. Join your driver in crying a breathless ‘so, so, so’ and throwing colourful squares of paper into the air like good-luck confetti, as the surrounding multicoloured fl ags fl ap and crackle in the wind. Better still, bring your own string to the pass and add them to the collection for some super-good karma.

Barkhor Circuit, NICHOLAS REUSS Lhasa You never quite know what 17 you’re going to fi nd when you join the centrifugal tide of Tibetans circling the Jokhang Temple on the Barkhor Circuit (p 45 ). Pilgrims and prostrators from across Tibet, stalls selling prayer wheels and turquoise, Muslim traders, Khampa nomads in shaggy cloaks, women from Amdo sporting 108 braids, artists and Chinese military patrols are all par for the course. It’s a fascinating microcosm of Tibet and an awesome backdrop for some souvenir shopping. BRADLEY MAYHEW

Koras & Pilgrims All over Tibet you’ll see 18 wizened old pilgrims twirling prayer wheels, rubbing sacred rocks and walking around temples, monasteries and sometimes even entire mountains. It’s a fantastic fusion of the spiritual and physical, and there are few better ways of spending an hour than joining a merry band of pilgrims on a monastery kora. En route you’ll pass rock paintings, sacred spots and probably be invited to an impromptu picnic. See p 19 for some of our favourites.

IMAGEBROKER/STEFAN AUTH Lhasa to Kathmandu by 4WD Organising a 4WD trip across 19 Tibet is the quintessential traveller experience (p32). It’s hard to know what’s toughest to overcome: the labyrinthine permit system, the terrible toilets or the rigours of bouncing around on a Tibet road for two weeks. Your reward is some wild and wholly Tibetan countryside, a satisfying sense of journey and a giant slice of adventure, until you fi nally drop off the plateau into the moist, green oxygen-rich jungles bordering Nepal.

Ngan-tso & Rawok-tso DANIEL MCCROHAN Tibet is not short on 20 spectacular, remote, turquoise-blue lakes. Of these, none surpasses the crystal-clear waters, sandy beaches and snowcapped peaks of these twin lakes (p 196 ), more reminiscent of the Canadian Rockies than anything on the high plateau. Stay overnight at a hotel on stilts above the lake and explore nearby glaciers during the day. 13

Preface

The issue of Tibet is not nearly as simple and clear cut as the Chinese government often tries to make out. I believe that there are still widespread misunderstandings about and misapprehensions about what is happening inside Tibet. Therefore, I welcome every opportunity for open-minded people to discover the reality of Tibet for themselves. In the context of the growing tourist industry in Tibet, the Lonely Planet travel guide makes an invaluable contribution by providing reliable and authoritative information about places to visit, how to get there, where to stay, where to eat and so forth. Present- ing basic facts and observations allows visitors to prepare themselves for what they will encounter and exercise their own choice. There is a Tibetan saying: ‘The more you travel, the more you see and hear.’ At a time when many people are not clear about what is actually happening in Tibet, I am very keen to encourage whoever has the interest to go there and see for themselves. Their presence will not only instil a sense of reassurance in the Tibetan people, but will also exercise a re- straining infl uence on the Chinese authorities. What’s more, I am confi dent that once they return home they will be able to report openly on what they have seen and heard. Great changes have lately taken place in this part of the world. Recent events have made it very clear that all Tibetans harbour the same aspirations and hopes. I remain confi dent that eventually a mutually agreeable solution will be found to the Tibetan problem. I believe that our strictly non-violent approach, entailing constructive dialogue and nego- tiation, will ultimately attract eff ective support and sympathy from within the Chinese community. In the meantime, I am also convinced that as more people visit Tibet, the numbers of those who support the justice of a peaceful solution will grow. I am grateful to everyone involved in the preparation of this 8th edition of the Lonely Planet guide to Tibet for the care and concern they have put into it. I trust that those who rely on it as a companion to their travels in Tibet will enjoy themselves in what, despite all that has happened, remains for me one of the most beautiful places on earth.

2 April 2010 14 Tibet is simply one of the most remarkable places in Asia. It offers fabulous monasteries, welcome to breathtaking high-altitude treks, stunning views of the world’s highest mountains and one of the most likeable peoples you will ever Tibet meet.

A Higher Plain For many people, the highlights of Tibet will be of a spiritual nature – magnifi cent mon- asteries, prayer halls of chanting monks and remote cliff side retreats. Tibet’s pilgrims are an essential part of this appeal, from the local grannies mumbling and swinging their prayer wheels in temples heavy with the intoxicating aroma of juniper incense and , to the hard-core walking or even prostrating around Mt Kailash. Tibet has a level of devotion and faith that seems to belong to an earlier age. For travellers too, Tibet can be a uniquely spiritual place. Those moments of peace, fl eeting and precious, when everything seems to be in its proper place, seem to come more frequently here, whether inspired by the devotion apparent in the face of a pilgrim or the dwarfi ng scale of a beautiful silent landscape. After the dark days of the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, when Tibetan monasteries and trad- itional culture were systematically dismantled, monasteries have been restored across the country, along with limited religious freedoms. A walk around Lhasa’s lively Barkhor pil- grimage circuit is proof enough that the eff orts of the communist government to build a brave new world in Tibet have foundered on the remarkable and inspiring faith of the Tibetan people. The Roof of the World For travellers nonplussed by Tibet’s religious signifi cance, the big draw is likely to be the elemental beauty of the highest plateau on earth. Geography here is on a humbling scale, from the world’s highest peaks to lakes that look like inland seas and every view is lit with spectacular mountain light. Your trip will take you past glittering turquoise lakes, across huge plains dotted with grazing yaks and nomad’s tents and over high passes draped with colourful prayer fl ags. Hike past the ruins of remote hermitages, stare up at the north face of the world’s highest peak or make an epic overland trip along some of the world’s wildest roads. The scope for adventure is limitless. Even if your interest lies in adventure, your lasting memories of Tibet are likely to be of the bottle of Lhasa Beer you shared in a Lhasa teahouse, the yak-butter tea off ered by a monk in a remote monastery or the picnic shared with a herders’ family on the shores of a remote lake. Always ready with a smile and with a great openness of heart, it is the Tibetan people that truly make travelling in Tibet such a joy. 15

Tours & Permits There’s no getting away from politics in modern Tibet. Whether you see Tibet as an op- pressed, occupied nation or simply an underdeveloped province of China, the normal rules for travel in China don’t apply here. Non-Chinese travellers face ever-changing restrictions on getting into and around Tibet and fi nding your way around the latest restrictions is the major challenge to arranging travel here. Currently foreign travellers need to pre-arrange a tour with a guide for their time in Tibet and hire transportation for trips outside Lhasa. Truly independent travel may return during the lifetime of this book but at the time of writ- ing it was almost impossible. See the Tours & Permits chapter (p 29) for more. Tourism in Tibet is changing fast. New airports, boutique hotels and paved roads are making travel ever more comfortable in many parts of the plateau. Once the remote pre- serve of hardy backpackers, it is now local Chinese tourists who dominate the queues for the Potala and Jokhang. For groups of three or four a 4WD trip across Tibet off ers a grand adventure. If you are looking to explore Tibetan culture by yourself on foot or by pub- lic transport, you may be better off heading to the permit-free Tibetan areas of western Sìchuān or Qīnghǎi. However you travel, a visit to Tibet will be memorable, fascinating and sometimes so- bering experience. It’s also a place that’s likely to change the way you see the world and that will remain with you for years to come. And that’s surely the defi nition of the very best kind of travel. 16 need to know Currency » , or Language yuán (Y) » Tibetan and Chinese

When to Go Your Daily B u d g e t

Budget less than

US$50 » One-way hard sleeper Xīníng–Lhasa Mt Kailash train and permits: $170 GO May–Sep Nagchu # GO Jun–Aug # » Rooms without bathroom: $5–12 Lhasa Bayi GO Apr–Oct # # » Meal in local GO Feb–Nov restaurant: $3

# Everest Base Camp » Join a small group GO May–Sep to share obligatory guide fees Midrange Desert, dry climate Warm to hot summers, mild winters US Mild to hot summers, cold winters Cold climate $50–150 » One-way flight to Lhasa from Kathmandu/Chéngdū: $400/$200 High Season Shoulder Low Season » Daily 4WD rental per (May–Sep) (Mar–Apr, (Dec–Feb) person: $40–60 » The warmest Oct–Nov) » Very few people » Double room with weather makes » The slightly colder visit Tibet in winter, bathroom $20–50 travel, trekking and weather means so you’ll have the Top end over transport easiest fewer travellers and place largely to » Prices are at their a better range of yourself US $150 4WDs highest » Hotel prices are » Boutique or four- » The 1 May and 1 » Prices are slightly discounted by up star hotel in Lhasa: October national cheaper than during to 50%, but some $90–150 the high season restaurants close holidays bring the » Main meal in a top biggest crowds restaurant in Lhasa: $7.50–10 17

Money Transport » ATMs and travellers » 4WD rental is the cheques only OK in most common form of Lhasa, and a Visas Mobile Phones transport, since most couple of other towns. » Valid Chinese visa » Buy a local SIM card local public transport Otherwise bring cash. required. for cheap local calls. is officially off limits.

Websites Exchange Rates Arriving in » Australia Tibet Tibet Australia A$1 Y5.8 Council (www.atc. » Gongkar Airport org.au) Useful travel Canada C$1 Y6.4 4WD – Your tour guide information. Europe E Y8.7 will most likely meet » Central Tibetan Japan Y100 Y7.8 you in your rented Administration (www. Nepal Rs100 Y9.1 vehicle. tibet.net) The view Taxis – Y150 to Y200 to New Zealand NZ$1 Y5.0 from Dharamsala. Lhasa’s old town. UK UK£1 Y10.3 » China Tibet » Train Station Information Center US US$1 Y6.7 4WD – Your tour guide (http://eng.tibet. For current exchange rates see www.xe.com. will most likely meet cn/) News from the you in your rented Chinese perspective. vehicle. » Life on the Tibetan I m p o r t a n t N u m b e r s Taxis – Around Y30 to Plateau (www.kekexili. Lhasa’s old town. typepad.com) Great Country code % 86 blog for independent International access code % 00 travellers. Ambulance % 120 » Tibet Sun (www. Fire % 119 tibetsun.com) Good for Tibet-related news. Police % 110

Tours & Permits » To board a plane or train to Tibet you need a Tibet Tourism Bureau permit, and to get this you must book a guide for your entire trip and pre-arrange transport for trips outside of Lhasa. » Travel outside Lhasa requires additional permits, arranged in advance by your tour company so you need to decide your itinerary beforehand. » Tour companies need 10 to 14 days to arrange permits and post you the TTB permit (the original permit is required if flying). » Entering Tibet from Nepal you have to travel on a short-term group visa, which can make it tricky to continue into the rest of China. » For details see p 29 . 18 if you like…

O ff -the- Trekking & Palaces, Forts & Beaten-Track Hiking Temples Monasteries Trekking ‘the roof of the There’s more to Tibet than Beyond Lhasa’s famous world’ isn’t easy. The alti- just monasteries. This mix monastic cities there are tude, weather and rugged of spectacular buildings hundreds of smaller lesser- terrain all present signifi - represents a millennium of visited places, each holding cant challenges. If you’re up Tibetan history. to it, hiking past nomad their own treasures and the Potala Palace Towering home tents to remote settlements chance to share some time to the Dalai Lamas, full of will take you out of reach of (and a bowl of yak-butter priceless Tibetan art and jewel- China’s manic modernisa- tea) with some local monks. studded tombs (p 52 ) The following are a few of tion and into an older Tibet. Pack your pith our favourites. Ganden to Samye A classic helmet and grow your best Monastery Towering route between two of Tibet’s Younghusband moustache for golden buddhas reveal an im- most important monasteries this ruined fort with views over portant past tied to the Mongols (p237 ) Gyantse’s old town (p 133 ) (p 147 ) Dode Valley, Lhasa It’s hard to Riwoche Tsuglhakhang Phuntsoling Monastery imagine a better way to spend Towering and totally unexpected Remote, little-visited and with a half a day in Lhasa, with the best temple about 30km from the spectacular location (p 146) views in the city (p 86 ) middle of nowhere (p 209 ) Monastery A Everest Base Camp There’s Tsaparang Your inner Indiana dramatic location surrounded something infi nitely satisfying Jones will love the caves, tun- by sand dunes and the fl owing arriving on foot at the base of nels and hidden stairways of this Yarlung Tsangpo river (p 111 ) the world’s highest mountain ruined cliff -side fort (p 183 ) (p 155 ) Drak A collection of Gyantse Kumbum One of the hillside cave chapels that has Tsurphu to Yangpachen Get great repositories of Tibetan art housed hermits for generations a taste of the wild northern and a masterpiece of Himalayan (p92 ) plateau on this high trek past architecture (p 132 ) herding camps and black-haired Korjak Monastery Delightful nomads’ tents (p 240 ) and quirky monastery at the far end of Tibet (p 187 ) PLAN YOUR TRIP IF YOU LIKE 19

TIM HUGHES ne hike hike ne fi Choose Choose A A delightful A One of the world’s the world’s of One Lhasa’s most interest- most Lhasa’s that connects Shigatse’s main Shigatse’s that connects and the old town monastery, the revealing fort, restored ) 141 (p views best town’s Pilgrim Pilgrim Paths Tibet’s koras (pilgrim routes) are the key to its soul. From 30m-long paths around inner a holy sanc- tum to month-long treks around a holy peak, koras are the ultimate fusion of the mind and the and body, the easiest way to meet Ti- betans on their own terms. Kailash Kora – a three-day pilgrimages great holiest Asia’s around walk mountain (p 250 ) Ganden Monastery with awe- the high kora between route or the lower views, some and rocks lined with sacred shrines ) (p 89 Monastery Sera carvings rock painted past walk monastery over views with great roofs (p 83 ) Barkhor fascinating endlessly ing corner, ) 45 time (p every Kora Tashilhunpo Join Kick back Kick back , but it’s also also but it’s , Tibetan cultural life life cultural Tibetan A Tibetan nightclub is nightclub Tibetan A Join a happy band of pil- of band Join a happy American IdolAmerican nds its best expression through through expression best nds its fi racing horse opera, festivals, ) 21 (p epic picnics and some the locals for a jerry can of of a jerry can for the locals beer or a home-brewed tea butter cup of never-ending (p 339 ) Festivals very Tibetan (see the box, p 74 ) 74 p the box, (see Tibetan very Chang & butter tea C u l t uEncounters r a l Simple daily pleasures abound in Tibet. Whether it’s spinning prayer wheels with a Tibetan granny, breathing in the heady fra- grance of juniper incense in a medievalmonastery or wondering at the devotion in a pilgrim’s prostrations, the following encounters you seehelp Tibet through eyes. Tibetan Tibetan sweet of with a thermos is instantly ) and the world 339 (p place a better Koras and prostrations some grims for ) 303 p the box, (see a sin test Nangma line dancing karaoke, a mix of and Jaw- s and former ff Sublime Swiss- Racing Festival (p 22 ) 22 (p Festival Racing Look out over out over Look much better than much better Yak racing at the Gyantse Horse- at the Gyantse racing Yak so

» Everest Base Camp Base Everest north face the of views dropping that are ) 155 side (p the Nepal from Tibet Western Northern Route, and wild ass antelope of Herds lakes salt-water huge by graze the world in this empty end of ) (p 170 area Tashigang style pine forests, green valleys valleys green pine forests, style ) 198 (p peaks and jagged Valley blu eroded weird seabeds towards epic views of of epic views towards seabeds ) 181 (p the Indian Himalaya You just have to You turn your head to get another out- standing view in Tibet. Whether the rolling grass- landsof the north, Mars- like deserts of the west, Himalayan snowcapped views to the south or the huge valleys and gigantic lakes of the centre, every- where you turn are amaz- colours. high-altitude ing Incredible Incredible Scenery a once- ū Pack the Pack Certainly a Certainly Add on an organ- Add cult to arrange arrange to cult ffi Day trip on the Kyi-chu trip on the Kyi-chu Day nowhere else. nowhere , the frescoes at at frescoes the , Outdoor Outdoor Activities Current travel restrictions di it make Mountain biking ) 357 (p adventure in-a-lifetime riding Horse a or hire Lhasa trip from ised Manasarovar at Kailash or horse ) 335 (p adventure a multiday for Rafting on the expedition or join a river Reting Tsangpo (p 336 ) wildlife Watching spot likely you’ll and binoculars wild asses, cranes, black necked of and a rich selection antelope ) 295 (p summer birdlife a DIY adventure if but you arrange things beforehand or join a specialised group there are plenty of adven- tures to be had in Tibet. but ever-improving challenge from the trips make roads Kathmandu or Chéngd styles found almost almost found styles If you like… lost art lost like… If you offer a splendid fusion offer of Kashmiri and Tibetan Tibetan and Kashmiri of Thöling Monastery (p 182 ) 182 (p Thöling Monastery treasures Yin to nearby nearby to Yin Central Tibet’s Tibet’s Central A strong contender contender strong A Dramatic detour detour Dramatic Huge tidal salt lake lake tidal salt Huge L a k e s There’s nothing quite like the deep turquoise of a blue lake. Tibetan high-altitude Whether just sacred or plain scenic, the following beauties beg you to pitch a tent or unwrap a picnic. Manasarovar Mapham sacred yang, Kailash’s in its surreal is utterly Yum-tso beauty ) (p 178 Nam-tso route and a kora lined with caves ) 101 (p favourite and a traveller Rawok-tso fringed lake, prettiest Tibet’s for and snowy beaches sandy by the around with glaciers peaks, corner (p 196 ) Tagyel-tso Kailash and to the road from spot wildlife to place a great ) (p 170 Yamdrok-tso lake snaking scorpion dramatic ) (p 127 Classic Classic A wild A Ride the ers scenery, scenery, ers ff The Northern to Lhasa to Lhasa ū

wildlife and isolation unparal- and isolation wildlife ) 170 Tibet (p in leled even Western Tibet Western world’s highest railroad past past railroad highest world’s with dotted grasslands huge yaks 356 ) (p o Kailash to Route Lhasa to Kathmandu Lhasa Chéngd The Tibet Express week-long 4WD or mountain- week-long the trip that delivers bike ) 25 (p the plateau of highlights the through route roller-coaster and un- gorges forested remote ) 28 (p of ranges explored

Getting to Tibet is half the fun! From all four direc- tions the overland routes to Lhasa deliver some of the mostworld’s spectacular scenery. Organising a 4WD trip across Tibet is perhaps the plateau’s quintessential travel experience. O v e r l a n d T r i p s

20 PLAN YOUR TRIP IF YOU LIKE Top Events 21 month Saga Dawa, May by , February Shötun Festival, August month Nagchu Horse Festival, August Tashilhunpo Festival, June

Mönlam z Chenmo (Great February March Prayer Festival) The depths of winter Spring (March and Since 1409 monks from are very cold but still April) brings pleasant Lhasa’s three main mon- sunny, and are not a bad temperatures but more asteries have assembled time to visit Lhasa and than normal wind. Easier in the Jokhang to carry central Tibet. Lhasa sees permits, few crowds and an image of Jampa (Mai- few tourists but lots of discounted hotel and treya) around the Barkhor visiting nomads. Ensure 4WD rates make April a circuit. The festival should your hotel has heating! better month to visit. culminate on the 25th of the fi rst lunar month but Year End Tense Times was outlawed after political z Festival z The anniversary of demonstrations ended in On the 29th day of the the 1959 Tibetan uprising violence in 1988. 12th lunar month monks on 10 March is just one of perform spectacular cham several politically sensitive dances at Tsurphu, Min- dates in March. Permits droling and Tashilhunpo are often suspended during monasteries to dispel the the entire month, so travel May agencies often suggest evil of the old year and The warmer weather of travellers avoid arriving in auspiciously usher in the late April and early May March. new one. A huge thangka is ushers in the start of the unveiled the following day trekking season. Views at . Chotrül are clear across the z Düchen (Butter Himalaya, especially over Losar (New Sculpture Festival) Everest. Both April and z Year Festival) Huge yak-butter sculptures May are good times to The fi rst week of the fi rst have traditionally been visit eastern Tibet. lunar month is a particu- placed around Lhasa’s larly colourful time to be Barkhor circuit on the May Day in Lhasa. Tibetan opera is 15th day of the fi rst lunar z The major three- performed and streets are month. The festival is day national holiday on 1 thronged with Tibetans in not currently celebrated May is a very popular time their fi nest cloaks. Prayer in Lhasa, though it is in for Chinese travellers to ceremonies take place at in come to Tibet, so expect the Jokhang and Gansu province. fl ights and hotels to be Monastery and new prayer booked solid and rates to fl ags are hung. be higher than usual, espe- cially in Lhasa. Shötun (Yogurt Festival) Guru Guru Rinpoche’s Festival Ganden day 15th the On Drepung Festival ering ceremony ac- ff rst week of the seventh Birthday z This major festival in the fi lunar month starts with the dramatic unveiling of a giant thangka at Drepung August The warm weather combined with some major festivals and horse racing on the northern plateau makes this one of the most popular times to visit. Tibet sees half of its (minimal) rainfall in July and August. z z The 30th day of the sixth lunar month is celebrated with the hanging at dawn of a huge thangka at Dre- pung Monastery. Lamas and monks perform opera courtyard. main the in near Varanasi in climb pilgrims Many . Gephel Ri (Gambo Ütse), the peak behind , and also the ridge from Pabonka to the Dode to burn Valley, juni- incense. per z on the Held 10th day of the sixth lunar month, this fes- tival is particularly popular monasteries. Nyingmapa in of the sixth lunarmonth, Ganden Monastery displays its 25 holiest relics, which are normally locked A away. large o companies the unveiling. fth fth fi rst sermon at can be very hot. fi ū Chökor Düchen Düchen Chökor (Drukwa Samye Festival Samye over two Held or Tashilhunpo Festival fth lunar month, Worship of the Buddha fi fth lunar month, the fi parks of Lhasa, in particu- lar the , are crowded withpicnickers. Tsezhi) Festival z The fourth day of the sixth lunar month celebrates Buddha’s July rain Monsoon-influenced and glacial melting from mid-July to September can bring flooding and temporary road blockages to eastern and western Tibet, as well as the road to Nepal. Lowland Kathmandu and Chéngd z lunar month, the main events here are elaborate cham and ceremonies ritual dancing in front of the Ütse. The monastery guest- house is normally booked out, so bring a tent. yak races, archery and equestrian events. A large 480-year thangkaold is sunrise. at unfurled 2 During the second week of the z days 16th to 14th the From of the three days from the full moon (15th of the day) Shigatse’s Tashilhunpo Tashilhunpo Shigatse’s Monastery becomes the sceneof three days of fes- tivities.A huge thangka is unveiled at dawn and cham dances are performed. Horse-

Racing Festival Gyantse Saga Dawa Dawa Saga (Sakyamuni’s Tsurphu Festival Sakyamuni’s Sakyamuni’s Birthday

dancing (ritual danc-

red areas in Tibet.

z June or July brings this largely secular festival to Gyantse, featuring fun such and games asline dances,

Tibet’s high season starts in earnest in June. Lots of Indian pilgrims head to Kailash at this time and trekking is good. Even summer days can be elevations higher at chilly 4000m). (above June

The full moon (15th day) of the fourth lunar month marks the date of Sakya- muni’s conception, enlight- enment and entry into numbers . Huge Lhasa’s walk pilgrims of Lingkhor circuit and visit Kailash,Mt where the Tar- boche prayer pole is raised year. each z es performed by costumed monks), colourful proces- sions and the unfurling of a great thangka are the high- lights of this festival, held from the 9th to 11th days of the fourth lunar month. z Cham

z The seventh day of the fourth lunar month sees large numbers of pilgrims visiting Lhasa and other sac Festivals are held around thistime at Tsurphu, Gan- den, Reting and Samye Monasteries. Enlightenment)

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH PLAN YOUR TRIP MONTH BY MONTH 23 res and carry fi Tsongkhapa Festival dances at the mon- asteries at Ganden, Sera Drepung. and z respect Much is shown to Tsongkhapa, the founder of Gelugpa on the order, anniversary of his death 10th the of 25th the on Monaster- month. lunar ies light Tsongkhapa of images in procession. Check for cham Devi), the protective deity of the Jokhang. December December By are temperatures starting to getseriously cold everywhere and start passes high some to close, but there’s still surprisingly little snow in the Land of Snows. ights and hotels fl for National Day ff Palden The 15th day of Lhabab Düchen Lhabab Commemorating October 1 take Many people z November Temperatures are still pleasant during the day in Lhasa and Shigatse, but cold in the higher elevations of the north and west. z October Clear Himalayan skies and good driving conditions in eastern and western Tibet make this a good off-peak time to visit before the winter cold arrives, as the comes season trekking to a close. z the 10th lunar month sees a procession in Lhasa around the Barkhor bear- ing Palden Lhamo (Shri so expectso Buddha’s descent from heaven, the 22nd day of the ninth lunar month sees large numbers of pilgrims in Lhasa. Ladders are painted afresh on rocks around many monasteries to symbolise the event. a week o to be full and rates higher normal. than

dances, dances, lhamo cation fi Nagchu a rst week rst fi cham rst week of fi Tashilhunpo More Onkor In the Horse-Racing Horse-Racing Festival Bathing Bathing Festival

from the ninth to 11th days of the eighth month, Shigatse’sat Tashilhunpo Monastery. (Tibetan opera) and some some and opera) (Tibetan epic picnics. of the eighth lunar month Tibetans in central Tibet get together and party in celebration of the upcom- harvest.ing

z z the eighth lunar month thousands of nomads head to Damxung and Nam-tso for a week of horserac- ing, archery and other traditional nomad sports. A similar and even larger event is held in few weeks earlier. z During the that coincides with the the with coincides that week-long appearance of Pleiades constellation the in the night sky.

z The end of the seventh and beginning of the eighth lunar months sees locals washing away the grime of the previous year in an act of puri Monastery and then moves to Sera and then down to the Norbulingka for of performances 24

Itiner- Whether you have seven days or 40, these itineraries provide aries a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Nam-Tso #• É

#•

É

É Tidrum Nunnery #• #• Drigung Til Monastery

É

É É #• #• Ganden Lhasa Monastery

10 Days to Two Weeks Lhasa & Around

The chief goal of travellers is Lhasa itself, the spiritual heart of Tibet. The train ride from Xīníng or Běijīng is a great way to get to Lhasa, but ticket demand in high season means it’s easier to leave Tibet by train rather than arrive. There’s enough to see in and around Lhasa to occupy at least a week. Highlights include the Potala Palace (a Unesco World Heritage Site), the Jokhang Temple and the Bark- hor pilgrimage circuit. The huge monastic institutions of Drepung and Sera lie on the edge of town, and Ganden Monastery is a fantastic day trip away. There are plenty of excursions to be made from Lhasa. An overnight return trip to stun- ning Nam-tso off ers a break from peering at Buddhist deities, though you should allow at least a few days in Lhasa to acclimatise before heading out to the lake. Add a day or two and return via the timeless and little-visited Reting Monastery to avoid backtracking. With another couple of days, visit atmospheric Drigung Til Monastery and Tidrum Nunnery, both east of Lhasa. You can visit these directly from Reting or on a two- or three-day excursion from Lhasa. PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 25

, a is a is and and and and , with ngmù ā Everest Everest (literally (literally Zh Peiku-tso Nyalam and and Lhasa É #• INDIA kumbum Yamdrok-tso Yamdrok-tso , a small monastery #• Samding Monastery #•

Shalu MonasteryShalu É . Sakya Gyantse #• Rongphu Monastery #• #•

É Monastery before heading over the glacier-draped Tashilhunpo BANGLADESH #• Sakya Tashilhunpo Monastery

É

É Rongphu Monastery #• R (8848m) . This town is well worth a full day: the Mt Everest the Friendship Hwy. Overnight here and investigate the north-

ff

#• Samding MonasterySamding É NEPAL Tingri

#• É

#• É Gyantse #• the dusty plateau, past misty waterfalls and lush green gorges to ff , just a few hours from the main highway. An overnight here at 5000m guar- #_ Nyalam Peiku-tso INDIA KATHMANDU The 1300km Friendship Hwy between Lhasa and Kathmandu in Nepal is a classic overland journey and easily the most popular travellers’ route through Tibet. allows It From Lhasa you can head straight to the coiling scorpion-lake of A popular side trip en route to Kathmandu is to brooding After Everest most people take the opportunity to stay the night in old The most popular excursion from the road is to take in the views from to pass Karo-la ‘100,000 images’) chörten is a must-see and the fort is a fun scramble. A 90-minute drive isaway Shigatse, with its impressive worthwhile half-day trip from Shigatse, especially if you have an interest in Tibetan art. antees both clear views and a pounding headache. not a good It’s idea to stay here if you’ve come straight from Nepal, as the altitude gain is simply too rapid to be considered safe. town located just 25km o ern ruins. Base Camp and the gates of the at the Nepali border. excellent detours to central Tibet’s most important monasteries, plus views of the world’s highest peak, and it’s paved all the way! Combine it with the train route into Tibet for an overlandepic tour. its wonderful views Cho of Mt Oyu, before the scenic roller-coaster ride to nearby ’s Cave. One interesting detouris to head east to overnight at stunning turquoise lake nestled at the base of hulking Shishapangma. The highway drops like a stone o Seven Days Lhasa to Kathmandu . #• , plus a

Lhasa É BHUTAN Tirthapuri Tsaparang to join the Friendship Friendship the join to

rst half of the Lhasa to fi .

, probably at Chiu Monastery. Monastery. Chiu at probably , É Nyalam occupies the of one most remote and Peiku-tso

É #• Tagyel-tso É #• #• R

. From Ali you can make a good day trip to É

. En route to Kailash, adventurers could add É (8012m) Khyunglung Valley , making a loop that will take three weeks. The Mt Kailash Lake Manasarovar . Ali Shishapangma and its views of Shishapangma

Tagyel-tso É

Mt Kailash (6714m) É NEPAL R #• Peiku-tso Lake Thöling Monastery Thöling Manasarovar #• #• Ali Rutok MonasteryRutok

#• É

#• É #• Pangong-tso #• and #• Tirthapuri (pilgrimage circuit) of the mountain will take three days and you should allow at Tsaparang Rutok

INDIA kora kora

Much talked Much about but little visited, sacred corners of Asia. Until very recently this trip entailed a rugged 4WD expedition, Monastery A If you just want to visit Kailash Mt and Lake Manasarovar, the most direct route is the An ambitious but rewarding alternative is to travel one way to/from Lhasa along the You’ll need at least three extra days if you want to visit the Guge kingdom sites around Finally, if you are heading to Nepal from Kailash, Mt it’s well worth taking the short Khyunglung Valley Thöling Monastery Kathmandu itineraryfor worthwhile extra stops in Gyantse and Sakya. but the increasing number of paved roads under construction on the southern route is gradually making this more a much comfortable ride. southern road a four-day (870km), drive from Lhasa along the spine of the Himalayas. Most people stop en route at Shigatse, Saga and Paryang, though Zhongba and are also possibilities. Figure on a minimum of two weeks. See the

Mt Kailash Pilgrimage Kailash Mt 15 Days to 21 least half a day afterwards to relax at You could easilyYou spend a half-day at Darchen visiting Gyangdrak and Seylung monaster- ies. After the kora pilgrims traditionally then visit the sacred hot springs at Zanda: one day from Ali, one day to Kailash Mt vice versa) (or and at least one day to visit the sites. need most You of a day to explore the otherworldly ruins at longer (1700km) northern route to few hours in Zanda at on an extra day to explore the Bön school Gurugyam Monastery and the amazing ruins of the ancient Shangshung kingdom in the Hwy near Nyalam. cut south via stunning Pangong-tso six-day drive is astonishingly scenic but the towns en route are mostly charmless, so con- sider camping somewhere such as

26 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 27 ,

É Nagchu Pasho #• #• Rawok-tso , the largest , for excellent #•

#• É Riwoche Riwoche Tsuglhakhang #• . Serkhym-la # • #• #• Ts e d r u Pomi Monastery en route to Lhasa three (allow Namche Barwa (7756m) Tsedru Monastery INDIA

É R CHINA Tengchen

É La-tso Lhamo #• Bayi Serkhym-la c É , from where you can visit nearby glaciers; #• Draksum-tso #• #• Sok erent scenically, are the wild valleys and gorges of ff Reting Monastery Temple

É Lamaling , Draksum-tso and Lamaling overnighting Temple, in Rawok-tso and the fascinating Kongpo region, with its lovingly re- and and , Tengchen and Sok,, Tengchen all the time gradually climbing to the and the incredibly sited ve or six days and rest visiting for a day, the large Galden fi É ve- to seven-day loop itineraryfrom Lhasa to Kongpocould #• . From here the road climbs to the fi #• Drigung Til Monastery after after Nam-tso Riwoche La-tso

Lhamo #• É Draksum-tso Nagchu

#• Reting Monastery É

Chamdo É #• #• Drigung Til Monastery Lamaling Temple Lamaling Lhasa Riwoche TsuglhakhangRiwoche Equally remote, but completely di eastern Tibet. Road conditions are best from late March to late April, and late Septem- A shorter and cheaper From Nagchu visit Nagchu From From Chamdo the northern route continues three or four days westwards to From Lhasa the southern route heads eastwards over a high pass to the beautiful but Nam-tso to though four days), the direct road can becompleted in a day’s drive if you are short on time. take in in take likely overnighting at at overnighting likely high-altitude pasturelands Amdo. This of road less taken of passes temple impressive the the Bön monastery in Tibet. Bayi before swinging back via Tsetang and Samye. Adventurous add-ons include a visit to sacred Bönri mountain, the remote oracle lake of Jampaling Monastery. otherwise Pomi and Pasho are the logical overnight stops. Swing north over the high passes into the deep red-hued gorges of the Salween and Mekong Rivers. Reach the mod- ern town of views in good weather of Namche Barwa, before dropping down into the dramatic gorges turquoise of north of the Yarlung Tsangpo. There’s some great accommodation shores on lake Ngan-tso, or the by camp stored stored touristed lake of of lake touristed ber to early possible It’s November. to enter or leave Tibet on a one-way trip but you can’t beat the comprehensiveness of a loop route. The only snag is that permits can be hard to get evena group on tour. This is probably a trip for people who have already visited the major sights of central Tibet. 18 to 21 Days Days to 18 21 Eastern Tibet Loop # • . From É ngdiàn ō Chengdu . The timeless ī

#• É nz

É ā Ta g on g , the biggest town in Yihun La-tso Yihun G #• ng past the important important the past ng ī Ganzi Lithang #• #• É ngd

É ā n. Zhongdian

ng and passes the grasslands ī

Chamdo ī É #• Monastery #• Deqin #• #• #• Bathang La-tso ngd Yilhun

ā Markham É and the pretty # • # • ng; then it’s 111km to Markham on the

ǐ É É Pomda (BURMA) MYANMAR #• É Chamdo # • #• , home to an epic horse festival in August, and and August, in festival horse epic an to home , Rawok-tso táng, Derge or Déq ā n runs west from K from west runs n #• #• n starts from K ā

Riwoche ā É Ts e d r u CHINA Tsuglhakhang

Monastery É Lithang Namche Barwa Serkhym-la R Dzogchen MonasteryDzogchen c and several large monasteries around

#• É #• n and the shorter Yúnnán route. The Tibetan areas of western . The road into up Tibet via Markham and over concertina passes INDIA ā is a day’s ride further but there are plenty of exciting excursions en Draksum-tso Temple

Tagong É Lamaling Derge #• É Bathang ngdiàn to Lhasa, allow a week in a 4WD. From Chengdu it takes days 10 to ō La-tso Reting Monastery Lhamo

#• É É # • n southern route. n and northwestern Yúnnán not require do travel permits; the eastern Tibetan Au-

#• ā ā

There are three main overland routes from the east: the northern route and southern throughroute Sìchu From Zh From The southern route through Sìchu A popular alternative option is to start in Yúnnán at the Tibetan town of Zh The northern route through Sìchu Lhasa Nam-tso BHUTAN rst half of the eastern Tibet loop itinerary, overnighting in Markham/Dzogang, Pasho Derge you cross into Tibet proper over some wild passes to eastern Tibet. the route For west of Chamdo, see the second half of the eastern Tibet loop; alternatively travel south to join the southern route. Khampa town and monastery of of monastery and town Khampa (Gyeltang), from where it’s a day’s ride to Deqin. From here you cross into the Tibet Au- tonomous Region (TAR) near the salt pans of Yánj and Pomi. and printing press of remote the to including route, low-lying then to Pomda ranks as one of the wildest and remotest in Asia. the route For west, reverse the fi Sìchu two weeks along either the northern or southern route. You’ll pass a number of hardcore Chinese cyclists en route. and monastery of tonomous Region does and these are sometimes tricky to get, even on an organised tour. If your 4WD has to come from Lhasa to you can you up, pick save some money by meeting your guide close to the TAR border at B Sìchu

Overland to Routes Lhasa Two to Three Two Weeks

28 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 29

Tours & Permits

Getting into Tibet Planning Your Trip You need a Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) The million-dollar question everyone wants permit to be able to board a train or plane to know is: how do I get into Tibet? Tibet to Lhasa. For this you need to pre-arrange has never been the easiest place to visit, an itinerary through a travel agent before but these days the permit situation can be a arriving in Tibet. harder obstacle than the mountain roads or You need travel permits to travel outside lack of oxygen in the air. Lhasa Prefecture and you can currently only The bottom line is that travel to the Tibet get these by hiring transportation and a Autonomous Region (TAR) is radically dif- guide as part of your itinerary. ferent from the rest of China and a valid If you plan to enter Tibet from Nepal, you will Chinese visa is not enough to visit Tibet. have to travel on a short-term group visa, You’ll also need several permits, foremost which is hard to extend (see p 346 ). of which is a Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) All of these rules have exceptions and by the permit, and to get these you have to book time you have fi nished reading this list, all of some kind of tour. Requirements change these rules will probably have changed. frequently. In the past they’ve been limited to a short three-day package (that then al- lowed you stay independently in Tibet), but currently at a minimum you need to ar- range a guide for your entire stay and hired transportation for any travel outside Lhasa. Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) Permit A TTB permit is currently required to get into the TAR. Without one you will not be able to board a fl ight or train to Tibet and will not be able to secure the other permits you need to continue travelling throughout Tibet. How these rules are interpreted depends on the political climate in Tibet. In the past travellers have been able to sign up for a nominal two- or three-day tour from one of the many budget travel agencies in China er

ff ight ight to nsù nsù fl n China ā ā n, G n, ā i, see Lonely Planet’s ǎ ngh ī ne print: ne fi The The You need to have the original permit in in permit original the have to need You Treks fall under thesame permit require- TTB permits generally take three days to If you are planning to arrive in Lhasa on a flight Chinese residents of Hong Kong, Macau and Journalists and embassy staff will find it A few travellers have managed to sneak into

» » » » » process and are not available during weekends. The actual permit is a sheet of paper listing the names and passport numbers of all group members. or dates that differ from those of your travel companions, your agency may have to issue a separate TTB permit for the time you are by Taiwan do not require a TTB permit to enter Tibet, though foreigners resident in China do. impossible to get a TTB permit as a tourist. Visitors on a business or resident visa don’t seem to have a problem. Lhasa without a TTB permit and stay there without problems, but you still need to arrange one there in order to travel throughout the rest Tibet.of Lhasa, so most agencies arrange to post thepermit through an agency or hostel. This can cost anything from Y25for normal post working(four to days) Y180/280/380 for 36- /24-/18-hour express post. A photocopy or currently is TTB original an permit of scan all that is required to board a train to Tibet, charge which saves on postage fees. agencies The permit is most though free, actually around Y600 per personthe for bureau- cratic run to secure this and other permits. your hands in order to board a pricey, fully organised treks, whereas oth- ers will let you arrange your own equip- trailheads. ment, food, the pack animals and local guides, from and to as long asyou take a guide and have trans- arranged port unusualIt’s to be asked for any documenta- tion while on a trek, though you might well at the trailheads. mentsas normal tours. Some agencies o nsù and Q ā or ū for more 352 352 er all-inclusive ff ) and geta permit that ū ights to Lhasa to foreign- fl ces and online booking ffi i (the former Tibetan provinces of Kham and Amdo) without the need ǎ ngh ī TRAVEL OUTSIDE TIBET OUTSIDE TRAVEL for pesky permits. This includes the places in our Overland Routes from Sìchu chapter. For details of Tibetan areas in G Note that TTB and Alien Permits Travel are only required for travel in the You TAR. can normally travel through the culturally Tibetan areas of Yúnnán, Sìchu and Q guide. To get a permit To you need to: arrange an address in China (hotel, agree a price and send deposit, a normally send a scan of your passport information hire a vehicle (normally for 4WD) a all work out an itinerary detailing exactly where pay for a guide for every day of your tour,

ers, but others won’t unless you can show you have a TTB permit. p (See agencies will sell will sell agencies tours, while others will arrange transport, transport, will arrange others while tours, a guide and permits but leave accommo- dation, food and entry fee costs to up you. canYou book your own train or air ticket to Lhasa or have the agency arrange this. o airline Some Chéngd Kathmandu, from information on buying air and train Tibet tickets into have a pre-booked ticket out of Tibet, but but Tibet, of out ticket elsewhere.) Some agencies require you to pre-booked a have most are happy for you to arrange this in Lhasa. What your tour actually involves depends depends involves actually tour your What on the agency. Some o » » » » » » (especially Chéngd Theseway. days you can only and get a TTB per- mit through a tour agency in Tibet (agen- travellers cies outside Tibet can arrange trips, but some Tibetan- a through book they ultimately with up based can agency). You meet no longer travel to Lhasa, organise a tour there. Everything must now be arrangedbeforehand, including any trekking itinerary you have planned. guesthouse or local agency) to receive your posted TTB permit, if flying to Lhasa through PayPal or a bank transfer (check charges) transfer pages and China visa transportation outside Lhasa outside transportation you want to go in Tibet including arrival and departure, at a rate of Y200 to Y250 per day

30 PLAN YOUR TRIP TOURS & PERMITS PLAN YOUR TRIP TOURS & PERMITS 31 exibility if fl ) for some ideas. 24 24 xed itineraries, but fi er ff route. ff the beaten track. ff rst need to pin down your itinerary. fi rm price. Prices depend largely on the the on largely depend Prices price. rm Many agencies give a price breakdown If you arrange your own tour you can ex- You should give You your agency a week to fi ux, dependent largely on political fl Organising a Tour a Organising Given the nature of the current restric- tions, almost all travellers arrange a tour for their travels in Tibet. arrange To a tour you Some agencies o agencies Some you can also customise your own. See our Itineraries chapter (p itineraryYour enables your agency to quote a mention to idea kilometres driven good (roughly a Y3.5 per km) not It’s taken. time the every place you intend to visit at this stage. probably will driver your road the on Once have been pre-paid for all the kilometres, so he’ll be very reluctant to detour even a few kilometres o for the vehicle, guide, permits, postage fees include and transfers, which is very useful. Clarify should It tickets. whether the trip fee includes accommoda- entry and/or tion Y300 guide your for accommodation and food additional an pay and driver. to Transfers might be included or have might you for airport Some pick-up. agencies allow you to take the airport may bus (Y25), but you’ll you agency your still on have to pay for your guide’s ticket (both Depending trans- public ways). of modicum a per take to able be US$100 to (where port, such as the pilgrim US$50 bus to Ganden. Lhasa in around pay time to of pect itiner- your on amount depending day, per person the ary, 10 days to arrange your permits, and two two and permits, your arrange to days 10 weeks if military advance or other permits are re- in days certain 15 a quired. than The authorities generally won’t is- more need permits sue you’ll and certain areas can so close without warn- ing, headed o -the-beaten-track monasteries, in the hope ff . You’ll have. You’ll to ū ng. Don’t be surprised if the permit system is radically dif- airs permit. For For permit. airs ī ff needed for Lha- for needed ij ectively ectively blocking ě ff not THE OF TRAVEL OF IMPERMANENCE THE ferent from that describedin this guide. In fact, expect it. written We’ve the guide based on current travel restrictions, but have included some information on things like public transport and DIY trips to o Travel regulationsTravel Tibet to are constantly in events in Lhasa and B that regulations ease. One of the best places for updated information is the dedi- cated Tibet page of Lonely Planet’s Thorn at lonelyplanet.com/thorntree. Tree Travel permits Travel are Sensitive border areas – such as Kai- Mt You willYou likely have to wire or transfer a deposit

sa or places just outside the city such as as such city the outside just places or sa Ganden Monastery but most other areas do technically require permits. Permits regional the in arranged easily most are capital, so for Western Tibet you’ll have to process to guide your budget a couple of hours in Shigatse, for and Ali, also possibly the permit. Lhasa PSB will not issue travel permits toindividuals, and agencies can only arrange a travel permit to those on a tour with them. Permits cost Y50 and can list any number of destinations. lash, the road to Kashgar and the Nyingtri region of eastern Tibet – also require a mili- tary permit and a foreign-a Once you have a visa and have managed to wangle a TTB permit, think you’d you were andhome dry. Think again. agency Your will need to arrange an alien travel permit for most of your travels outside Lhasa. Alien Travel Permits, Military Permits & Other Fun Such » yourself. When you meet your friends you’ll then join the main permit. There doesn’t seem to be a problem getting on a flight with one or twogroup members not present. to your travel agency’s Bank of China account in Lhasa, though some agencies accept PayPal. willYou pay the balance in cash in Lhasa. Check with the agency. gorges in southeastern Tibet, the roads roads the Tibet, southeastern in Tsangpo as places Yarlung the such remote gorges south of Gyantse or for any border area, you may not be able to get permits even if you book a tour. Regions can close at short notice. In the 2010 entire region around e was closed, Chamdo check to see if this has changed. overland trips from Chéngd by ff t four people fi xed departures and fi lock’ can be ff er ff nd other travellers to form fi nd people to share travel costs, rst time they have seen it!). fi fi cial insistence on ‘group travel’. For For travel’. ‘group on insistence cial ffi a longve. For overland trip to Kailash or Solo travellersshouldn’t be too o put fi the o the the purposes getting of permits and visas, a ‘group’ can be as small as person. one If you to want com/thorntree) is full of travellers looking looking travellers of full is the Lonely Planet Thorn (lonelyplanet. Tree com/thorntree) for travel partners. Some agencies (particu- larly the hostels) o more headaches than they solve. Asking for a Tibetan guide ensures you’ll get a Tibetan perspectiveon monasteries and is highly recommended. will help you you will help a small group. A 4WD can comfortably (including the guide). Some larger models also have a smallthe rear, which makes it possible to squeeze jump seat in in uent Tibetan, good Chinese and useable English. fl exibility in fl ed mechanic, inspecting the soundness of the vehicle fi cult, but you should at least check that the windows open and ffi gure in the normal travel fi on the big trip. ff nalising details with a tour agency it’s a good idealook to through their con- fi

Unless you are a quali Establish which vehicle costs are not covered in the price the (eg Y405 vehicle For delays caused by vehicle breakdowns, driver illness etc the agency should Ask the agency about its policy on refunds for an uncompleted trip. Some agen- You shouldYou agree on the rate for any extra days that may need be to tacked

THE NITTY GRITTIES OF ORGANISING A 4WD TRIP TRIP 4WD A ORGANISING OF GRITTIES NITTY THE locked and unlocked (this is usually done via tabs on the front wheel hubs). Tyres and spares should be in reasonable condition. A long steel tow cable is advisable, since ropes are useless. close and that the handbrake works (ours didn’t!). Make sure also that the 4WD can at least be engaged just (not that the stick moves) and that the ‘di Ensure that the guide speaks Strong personality clashes would suggest a change of personnel. It’s not a bad idea to test the driver and car on a day trip to somewhere like Ganden Monastery before you head o Once you are sorted with the agency, it’s a good idea to organise a meeting between your group and the and driver(s) guide a day or two before departure. Make sure the drivers are aware of your itinerary (it may be the tract (if they have and one) see where youstand in the event that things don’t go according to plan. Bear the following in mind: When When » » » » fee to drive to Everest Base Camp and vehicle Y40 fee at Peiku-tso), as well as entry fees for your guides (such as the entry ticket and ‘environmental bus fee’ for Everest). cover 100% of the costs and provide a back-up vehicle if necessary. you If negotiation. to open more are others while refund, of kind any refuse cies decide to cut a trip short for personal reasons it’s unlikely you’ll get a refund. onto an itinerary. For delays caused by bad weather, blocked passes, swollen river crossings and so on, there should be no extra charge for jeep hire. the At very least, the cost for extra days should be split 50% between your group and the agency. may prove be to di On top of the costs of this kind of tour, In Lhasa you currently need to visit the you’ll have to 4WD rental is not required) and the num- ber of people in the group. control. Some agencies want to book your your book to want costsaccommodation, of food and entry agencies tickets etc, but these costs Some can you at least control. hotels and indeedcan often get cheaper rates for midrange or top-end hotels; others will let you arrange your own accommoda- tion, which gives you greater changing hotels. major monasteries Jokhang, (the Drepung, Sera and Ganden) with your guide, but be- yond that you can generally explore the city yourself, if you don’t mind paying for a guide you don’t use! The quality of guides in Tibet varies considerably. Some are great, many are next to useless and a few actually cause

32 PLAN YOUR TRIP TOURS & PERMITS PLAN YOUR TRIP TOURS & PERMITS 33 ) ū ce in ce ffi ngdiàn, it’s it’s ngdiàn, , Lete Youth Youth Lete , ō fl 0872-267 7824; 7824; 0872-267 0971-820 3271; 3271; 0971-820 ) With an o With ) níng, for example ī ū % % ( ( 028-8335 5322, 133 133 5322, 028-8335 028-8559 3923; www. 3923; 028-8559 % ( 028-8557 0315; www. 0315; 028-8557 % ) Chinese agency, not con- agency, ) Chinese 028-8618 3658; www.access 028-8618 ( % ū ( % nd train tickets and permit 10-8660 8923; www.leohostel. 8923; 10-8660 028-8322 2271; www.mixhostel. 2271; 028-8322 fi 028-8663 0114; www.chinayak. 0114; 028-8663 ( ) Popular agency and hostel in and hostel agency ) Popular ū % % ) Part of CITS. of ) Part ng) % ī ( ( ū ij ( ě for agencies in Kathmandu that níng) Recommended. ) . ī n and northwest Yúnnán, including ū ū 263 263 ā There arealso several good companies organised trips to Lhasa.

windhorsetour.com; Ste 904, Wanheyuan, Bldg C, Bldg C, Wanheyuan, 904, Ste windhorsetour.com; Chéngd Lu, 1 Babao in Lhasa. Adventure Horse Wind Tibet to nected Helen. Contact

com/tibet.htm; 23 Renjiawan, Xinghui Xilu, Xilu, Xinghui 23 Renjiawan, com/tibet.htm; Chéngd dreams-travel.com; 242 Wuhouci Dajie, Chéngd Dajie, Wuhouci 242 dreams-travel.com; tibetour.com; Room 178-188, 4 F, Yuanheng Trade Trade Yuanheng 4 F, 178-188, Room tibetour.com; Chéngd 235 Shuhan Lu, Bldg, www.china-travel.nl) Dutch-Chinese operation operation Dutch-Chinese www.china-travel.nl) China Minority Travel Tibetan Connections Windhorse Tour p See arrange tours from Nepal. Agencies Overland Tour China in The following adventure travel agencies trips from specialise organised in overland or through the Tibetan areas of western Sìchu China Yak Dreams Travel Hostel Leo Hostel Mix CozySim’s Travel Access Tibet Access

9819 5552; www.gogosc.com; Sim’s Cozy Guest Guest Cozy Sim’s 9819 5552; www.gogosc.com; Chéngd House, Chéngd Hostel, X Hostel, www.tibetanconnections.com; International Vil- International www.tibetanconnections.com; 15th Cun Gongyu Bldg 5, lage/Guoji com; Guangjuyuan Binguan, 52 Dazhalan Xijie, Xijie, 52 Dazhalan Binguan, Guangjuyuan com; B Qianmen,

com; Chéngd com; basedoutside theTAR. Many are based in the Tibetan areas of Chinaand operate through local contacts in Lhasa. Depend- ing on your itinerary can it be useful to arrange your tour through these. one of If X from train the catching it’s handy to use an agency there to ar- help range hard-to- pickup. If overlanding from Zh useful to book through a company based there to having avoid to send a vehicle all the way from Lhasa. The following compa- nies all organise Tibet trips: Lhasa.

, fl Tibet 683 631 6298; 6298; 631 692 2114; 2114; 692 ng. ī % ij % % ( ( ě ( .

t.com; 2nd t.com; 667 2062; www. fi tsonam@ fi % 655 9938; 655 9938; 634 9239; 634 9239; ned. This is one one This is ned. ( fi

% % ( ( 633 0489; www.shigatse 633 0489; 134 3932 9243; www. 9243; 3932 134 % % 691 2080; tibetanintibet@ 2080; 691 ( ( (www.shangrilatours.com) At At (www.shangrilatours.com) % 632 0200; ttb 632 0200; ( 136 5952 3997; www.cafespinn. 3997; 5952 136 % % ( ( Great Tibet Tour/Tibet Niwei Inter- 0891) are0891) used to arranging customised Note that the agency that arranges your your arranges that agency the that Note % [email protected]; 8 Beijing Donglu) Contact Contact 8 Beijing Donglu) [email protected]; Snowlands Hotel, 4 Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lu/Mentsikhang Zangyiyuan 4 Hotel, Snowlands Tsering. Lhakpa Lam) Contact

www.tibetkyunglungtravel.com; 29 Sera Beilu) Sera 29 www.tibetkyunglungtravel.com; yahoo.cn; Zangyiyuan Lu/Mentsikhang Lam) Lu/Mentsikhang Zangyiyuan yahoo.cn; Tenzin. Contact national Service Travel 3009; www.windhorsetibet.com; B32 Shenzheng 3009; www.windhorsetibet.com; trips. Top-end Beilu) Sera Huayuan, Barkhor Namchen Guest House; see p 69 . 69 p see House; Barkhor Namchen Guest www.visittibet.com; Niangre Lu) Can arrange Lu) Can arrange Niangre www.visittibet.com; add-ons. Nepal Travellers have also recommended Tibet Tourism Bureau Ser- FIT Travel Centre vice Visit Tibet and Travel Tours travels.com; Yak Hotel, 100 Beijing Donglu) Top- Beijing Donglu) 100 Hotel, Yak travels.com; end tours. Tibet Wind Horse Adventure Spinn Café Spinn Shigatse Travels Snow Lion Tours Shigatse CITS Namchen Tours FIT Banak Shol Hotel FIT Snowlands Hotel Tibetan Agencies Tour In general Tibetan tour agencies are not as neighbouring in agencies as professional Nepal. The following companies in Lhasa ( TTB permit is legally responsible for you in Tibet. Should get you caught talking politics with the wrong person, or staying the by inquestioned Tibet after be the dateyour on TTB permit, likely will agency the authorities and perhaps reason why some guides can appear over- protective. EasternTibet it’s well worth paying a little extra to have a more space. greattibettour.com; 2 Linkuo Beilu) [email protected]; www.tibet [email protected]; trips: com; 135 Beijing Donglu) Contact Kong or Pazu. Kong Contact Beijing Donglu) 135 com; fi Xiaojin. Kyunglung Travel Service Travel Kyunglung and and hotmail.com; Zangyiyuan Lu) Contact Sonam. Lu) Contact Zangyiyuan hotmail.com; snowliontours.com; 1 Danjielin Lu) Contact Contact Lu) 1 Danjielin snowliontours.com; in B a branch Also Tsering. Wangden 971-613 971-613 % ( n. ā ) Contact Gao ) Contact ū 028-8675 1783; www. 1783; 028-8675 % ( 010-6465 6602; www.wildchina. 6602; 010-6465 % ( ng) Professionally run trips. ng) Professionally ī ij ě níng) Contact Tashi Phuntsok. Tashi níng) Contact ī i province. ǎ ngh ī

1358; www.windhorseadventuretours.com; 19 Nan www.windhorseadventuretours.com; 1358; X Dajie, for tours to Amdo and Kham, specialising in specialising Kham, and Amdo to tours for Q Trekking Tibetan China Wild Wind Horse Adventure Tours com; Room 801, Oriental Place, 9 Dongfang 9 Dongfang Place, Oriental 801, Room com; Chaoyang Rd, Dongsanhuan North Donglu, B District, tibetantrekking.com; Room 1614, Zhufeng Hotel, Hotel, Zhufeng 1614, Room tibetantrekking.com; Chéngd Lu, 288 Shuncheng in especially and 4WD trips, treks Liqiang for Sìchu western of areas Tibetan , Yún- , ngdiàn) ngdiàn) ĭ ō níng) Excellent níng) Excellent ī 0971-820 3271; 3271; 0971-820 ngdiàn) US-British US-British ngdiàn) ō % ( 0887-828 8648; www. 0887-828 % ( 0887-828 9245; www.haiwei 9245; 0887-828 % ( , Lete Youth Hostel, X Hostel, Youth Lete , fl khampacaravan.com; 117 Beimen Jie, Zh Jie, Beimen 117 khampacaravan.com;

Overland trips from Yúnnán to Lhasa, with an Lhasa, to Yúnnán from trips Overland com- and local tourism emphasis on sustainable Dakpa. Contact munities. Tibetan Connections Khampa Caravan Khampa Haiwei Trails Haiwei based at Jim’s Tibetan Guesthouse in Dàl Guesthouse Tibetan Jim’s at based

nán; contact Henriette. nán; contact www.tibetanconnections.com; Guoji Cun Gongyu Guoji Cun Gongyu www.tibetanconnections.com; 15th Bldg 5, trails.com; 19 Beimen Jie, Zh Jie, 19 Beimen trails.com;

company that runs 4WD trips and charters into into and charters that runs 4WD trips company Tibet. and eastern central

34 PLAN YOUR TRIP TOURS & PERMITS 35 regions at a

glance L h a s a Ü

Monasteries  Monasteries  History  Activities    Tibet is a huge land and you Old Town Scenery can’t see all of it in a single trip. Almost everyone visits Lhasa, Monasteries Monasteries Tibet’s holy city, which still has The traditional seat Samye is perhaps a lovely old town despite being of Tibetan power, the loveliest monas- at the forefront of Chinese-led the great Gelugpa tery in Ü, while the monasteries of sky burial centre modernisation. The valleys Drepung, Sera and of Drigung Til is a around Lhasa in Ü offer great Ganden still buzz travellers’ favourite. scope for short excursions with monks and Also charming are from Lhasa, as well as great pilgrims. Smaller smaller monaster- but equally charm- ies of Mindroling, trekking. Focus your efforts ing monasteries are Dorje Drak and here if you’re short on time. in the old town. Reting, rarely visit- For most travellers the ed by tour groups. History central region of Tsang means Visit the Potala, the Activities the excellent overland route fortress-like home Trekking is superb to Kathmandu and the trip for nine Dalai La- in Ü. Ganden– mas; Norbulingka, Samye is the classic to Everest Base Camp. More from where the Da- Tibetan trek but remote are the outlying regions lai made his the Tsurphu– of Western Tibet (Ngari) and escape in 1959; and Yangpachen walk Eastern Tibet (Kham), which Jokhang Temple, has equally superb which dates from scenery. Ü also require 4WD trips of two to the arrival of Bud- off ers rafting and three weeks through amazing dhism in Tibet. horse riding. scenery: one desert and Old Town Scenery steppe, the other forested Lhasa’s old town is The grandest views valleys and alpine pastures. the one corner of are at Nam-tso, the city that feels a giant salt lake truly Tibetan. The fringed with the backstreets hide snowcapped Tan- teahouses, guest- glha range. The houses, chapels and sand dunes lining craft shops, while the braided Yar- the Barkhor Circuit Tsangpo val- is the spiritual ley have a surreal heart of the city. beauty. p 40 p95    189 189 p Adventure people Few really Eastern explore Tibet and only the lucky few get a peek at Namche Barwa or the awesome gorges of the Yarlung Tsangpo. There’s also one of the greatworld’s road trips, if the permit situation allows. Monasteries The east has some real gems: Galden Jampaling Monas- tery is one of Tibet’s largest, Riwoche is one of its great hid- den sights and Tse- dru Monastery has perhaps the region’s most remote moun- tain crag location. Scenery lush forests, Pine jungle, alpine val- leys,and the deep gorges of the upper Mekong and Sal- ween Rivers make travelin the east a roller-coaster ride through a dozen climactic zones. Monasteries Monasteries Scenery Adventure E a s t eTibet r n    163 p Adventure Explore the tunnels, caves and walls mud of the ruined cities and Shangshung of Guge. Then shed your sins on a Mt pilgrimage Kailash or set camp up at the base of 8012m Shishapangma. Wildlife Small herds of wild asses and antelope grazing the yellow steppe are a regular sight. Funnier are the marmots sitting on theirup hind you watch to legs set camp up or the that yaks grunting haul trekkers’ gear Kailash. Mt around Lakes Lakes Wildlife Adventure Lakes The sight of Mt Kailash rising from the turquoise waters Manasarovarof is The words. beyond huge salt lakes of the northern route cry out for a picnic or overnight camp, Dawa- at especially tso and Tsogyel-tso. We s t e rTibet n the the  the the ff ff  

126 126 p Lakes Yamdrok-tso is a coiling gorgeous lake and there are great views from just below the Kamba-La. epic For to detour scenery Peiku-tso, just an hour or two o Friendship HwyFriendship Nepal. towards Tsang is all about EverestMt and the awesome views of its north face from Monas- Rongbuk Himalayantery. views are superb all across southern Tsang en route from Lhasa to Kathmandu. Mountains Pelhor Chöde Monastery has the Kumbum fabulous chörten, but historic is an equally worthy destination. O explore track beaten the art of Shalu or a Bön monastery at Yungdrungling. Monasteries Lakes Lakes Monasteries Monasteries Mountains T s a n g

36 PLAN YOUR TRIP REGIONS AT A GLANCE