Are You Under The Influence? - The Authenticity and Transparency of Influencer Marketing Within the Beauty Industry 2020 - By Isobel Muncer CONTENTS
SECTION 03.
PG 28 - MORPHE BRAND ANALYSIS 04
02 PG 32 - MORPHE X JACLYN HILL SECTION 01. CASE STUDY PG 35 - MORPHE SWOT ANALYSIS PG 4 - EXECUTIVE SUMMARY PG 6 - INTRODUCTION SECTION 02. SECTION 04. PG 8 - METHODOLOGY PG 10 - RESEARCH & ANALYSIS PG 36 - MORPHE BEAUTY ENDORSED PG 14 - THE CALL OUT CULTURE ENGAGERS PG 18 - THE REGULATORS RESPONSE PG 42 - MORPHE BEEs TRAINING COURSE PG 24 - COVID CRISIS AFTERSHOCK PG 44 - THE BEE PROCESS PG 46 - SUPPORTING METHODOLOGIES AND METRICS PG 50 - AIDA/MARKETING STRATEGY PG 54 - LIMITATIONS OF THE BEAUTY EDUCATION STANDARD PG 56 - CONCLUSION PG 60 - APPENDICES PG 62 - REFERENCE LIST PG 71 - BIBLIOGRAPHY 01 03 Part 2, presents further and deeper research and analysis into influencer marketing, specifically looking into the three main factors that are currently changing and affecting the industry. These factors include: The Call Out Culture, The Regulators Response and the COVID Crisis Aftershock. Each section evaluates the changes taking place within influencer marketing for all markets, whilst further narrowing down to how these factors are specifically affecting influencer marketing within the 01 beauty industry. Moreover, transparency Furthermore, Part 4 will propose the new and authenticity plays a key factor in the beauty education standard (BES) that future success of influencer marketing Morphe will introduce to their business, for beauty brands, which is also carefully as a qualification that influencers 01EXECUTIVE analysed throughout each section to lead must pass before promoting Morphe onto suggestions which beauty brands products. This section will critically will need to adopt, to meet their future analyse the process to becoming a younger consumer demands, the ever- Beauty Empowered Engager (BEE), as well as the marketing strategies SUMMARY changing industry regulations and the aftershock effects that COVID will cause Morphe will use to promote and engage for the beauty industry and influencers. this concept to their consumers. Key This report analyses the current factors affecting influencer theories and frameworks are used within marketing including, consumer shifts, regulations and the effects As a result, Part 3 focuses on the online this section to further analyse the value of COVID-19. The report also specifically focuses on influencer beauty brand Morphe, evaluating the and trust this opportunity would provide marketing within the beauty industry and the effects that these brand’s history and their rapid growth and for the beauty brand, allowing them to current factors are having on beauty influencers and brands today. success from using influencer marketing meet the social needs of their future as their main source of promotion on consumers, by creating a more authentic The factors analysed in this report, present opportunities for beauty social media platforms. Additionally, Part and transparent strategy when using brands to re-think and adapt to the changes taking place within the 3 will also analyse Morphe’s mistakes influencer marketing in the future. beauty influencer market, as transparency and authenticity within regarding their influencer marketing The report concludes with the influencer marketing will increasingly be what consumers look for strategies, through a recent case study recommendation that Morphe introduces when considering what beauty brands, they want to buy from. involving beauty influencer, Jaclyn Hill. the BES, highlighting the benefits it would This analysis will thereby highlight provide for both brand, influencer and Part 1 of the report, introduces and critically analyses the internal the future opportunities Morphe must consumer looking forward, whilst also and external factors affecting influencer marketing for brands consider through a SWOT analysis, which evaluating any risks Morphe will need today, including the future of the influencer market, past influencer will suggest a proposal that the beauty to consider. Furthermore, the emphasis scandals, current advertising regulations and consumer trust brand should develop to tackle further of creating a standard that seeks greater with influencers. Considering the factors proposed, an evaluated issues when using influencers, whilst education, authenticity, transparency methodology presents key primary and secondary research also further building their consumers and trust, provides the key for Morphe to methods, used to further analyse influencer marketing within the trust by creating a highly transparent and be the first to set the influencer standards beauty industry, to help analyse and evaluate further research in authentic influencer marketing strategy. that all beauty brands should follow. part 2.
4 5 INTRODUCTION
With the public’s trust in everything from products to politicians at an all-time low (Figure 1), it is not surprising that the role of influencers* has become the new generation of trust agents.
In the US, influencer marketing has sky-rocketed from $1.7 billion in 2016 to Figure 1 - Trust Index comparison graph (Edelman, 2019) $6.5 billion today and is predicted to hit $15 billion by 2022 (Gerdeman,2019). In particular, the fashion and beauty industry breed of influencers who are actively has been among the biggest users of endorsing these products. influencer marketing, as traditional TV But it is perhaps an even more recent development that could see the biggest and print advertising is being replaced by their lucrative influencer marketing backlash against ill-informed beauty online and social marketing to meet new doesn’t fall foul of the many and varying brands and influencers. With the onslaught consumer trends. A report published new domestic disclosure rules, there has of the COVID-19 pandemic, consumers by the Harvard Business School been little to no attention paid by the are questioning the safety of products (Gerdeman,2019), found that influencers marketers or the rule makers as to the and especially less well known beauty are now the leading source of product quality and ethical standards and product ingredients that are applied to your face information for female beauty shoppers. knowledge of the influencers they are or skin. So called natural ‘clean products’ It’s perhaps not surprising then, that using, to build their brands and influence championed in recent years by many brands leading beauty brand, Estee Lauder, consumers’ purchasing decisions. recently said it is now spending 75% and influencers are now being questioned as to whether they are as “clean” as once of its marketing budget on influencers Whilst government agencies, like the thought. (Gerdeman, 2019). Federal Drug Agency in the US and the domestic advertising watchdogs, such Against this backdrop, this report will present But recent celebrity influencer scandals as UK’s Advertising Standards Authority the case for beauty brand Morphe developing - such as influencer Jaclyn Hill’s (ASA), enforce regulations and penalties a new, potentially industry-wide endorsed, exposure of US beauty brand Morphe’s on what manufacturers can produce, standard for the education and certification misleading cruelty-free ingredient claims promote, or sell in the healthcare and of influencers in the beauty industry. The - have rocked the industry, bringing into beauty world, the same level of scrutiny supporting marketing campaign will use the question the trust of influencers and the and rigour (beyond being truthful and tagline and hashtag ‘Beyond Skin Deep’ to brands they endorse, causing a ground transparent), is not applied to the new swell of domestic regulators (both federal highlight the current superficial state of the and advertising bodies) to rush out new beauty industry in relation to meaningful rules on influencer disclosure. * A person with the ability to influence potential and effective influencer regulations and buyers of a product or service by promoting education. The campaign will also promote or recommending the items on social media. However, while brands race to ensure a new certified beauty industry standard (Hornblower, Spawforth and Eidinow, 2012) for influencers called ‘Beauty Empowered Engagers’ (BEEs). 6 7 METHODOLOGY
- PRIMARY RESEARCH - The Advertising Standard Authority (ASA), The Committee of Advertising Practice (CAP) and The Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) report ‘An Influencer’s Guide The first stages of primary research will protect themselves and the brand itself from to Making Clear That Ads are Ads’ (2020), the Influencer include a short survey for anyone aged disclosing any information that may damage Marketing Hub report ‘Influencer Marketing Benchmark 18-30 who has an interest in the beauty the brands reputation. Report 2020’ (2020), and the Fashion Revolution report industry. This research has been approved ‘Fashion Transparency Index 2020’ (2020) and other by ERGO (Appendices 1), through a Moreover, by interviewing influencers, they secondary reports, will be used throughout, to critically documented process. By using a survey, will be more likely to answer honestly, due to evaluate the current state of influencer marketing in it allows participants to answer questions the potential damaging impact that lack of 2020, along with an overview of the current influencer anonymously, enabling them to give honest transparency within the influencer industry regulations. opinions and answers, which will ensure true could have on their reputation, as shifts in results. Nevertheless, it can be argued that consumer behaviour has seen increased Key issues and future predictions of influencer marketing such a survey could be partly biased due to demands for authenticity from brands and are stated within these reports, enabling thorough analysis the general focus being on beauty, which influencers marketing beauty products. and comparisons between the primary and secondary may be more appealing to women as they research gathered, to ensure the final strategy and results currently make up the majority of consumers Interviews with senior executives from are accurate and up to date with the latest trends and buying and using beauty products. the world’s leading Advertising Standards changes taking place within the beauty industry. These Authorities (Appendices 2) and international reports also include much greater participant numbers Following this, a series of one-on-one influencer legal experts, will also provide within studies conducted, which presents a greater interviews/surveys (based on the research current views and the potential future variety of opinions and results compared to the primary results) were conducted involving: direction of the influencer standards that research conducted which involved fewer participants. professionals working within the beauty beauty brands and influencers are expected Nevertheless, it can be argued that this secondary data industry, members of the Advertising and to abide by. The results of these interviews may not be as reliable or current - due to being published Regulatory Standard Authorities from also provide more specific insights into before COVD-19. However, it can still be used to critically around the world, leading legal advisors the evolution of the proposed strategy for analyse and compare against any primary data. specialising in international influencer Morphe and the arguments for and against marketing law, as well as individual the new beauty influencer standard being Due to the more recent nature of influencer marketing, this influencers and marketing influencer industry/brand lead versus a regulator report will also draw on some of the most current academic agencies who work with beauty brands on a endorsed or governed standard. However, marketing theories around ‘messenger value’ (e.g. source, regular basis (Appendices 2). By interviewing although these answers cover a range of credibility, expertise and trustworthiness) such as Lou and those within the beauty industry, it will allow countries, the advertising standards vary in Yaun’s 2019 study – ‘How Message Value and Credibility a deeper and more authentic viewpoint of each country, thereby meaning these results Affect Consumer Trust of Branded Content on Social what the current procedures are that brands can only represent a small sample of the Media’. This will be further backed by primary research must follow, regarding advertising and countries influencers cover, and primary on consumers’ perceptions of influencer marketing and influencer marketing. However, it must also results are therefore summarised in regard specifically the relationship of trust, transparency and be considered whether answers given by to the participating countries. influencer education on purchasing decisions.
those within the industry may be limiting, to - SECONDARY RESEARCH
8 9 RESEARCH & ANALYSIS
‘Influence is the ability to shape influencers. Influencers are those or change a person’s opinion or individuals - both ordinary people behaviour. Similarly, influence who have gained an online, is often used interchangeably cult-like, following and famous with advocacy but influence is celebrities - who make a living not necessarily positive. Brands from reviewing, promoting or can suffer the effect of negative endorsing products, services and influencers just as much as experiences. Influencers allowed from positive ones’ (Guthrie and brands to directly advertise, Waddington, 2019). through a particular trusted icon, to their target consumers via the Up until the turn of the century, many media and online platforms scheduled television, daily papers that have evolved. 02 and magazines were the only real mass media influences available to The effectiveness of influencer consumers and the primary platform marketing over the years, 02 used by marketers to advertise to has become a vital tool in the the public. Today, with the ever- campaigns of some of the biggest evolving technology and the world brands in the world and made it an wide web, as well as the success indispensable asset for marketers of social media platforms such as today (Mediakix, 2019). ‘Whilst, the Instagram, Youtube and Twitter, international influencer marketing consumers now have unlimited market is expected to grow from access and choice over the content £4.5 billion in 2019 to £18.4 billion they prefer to see (Mathew, 2018). by 2024, according to a report by However, as marketers adapted Markets and Markets’ (Mediakix, to this multi-channel world, a 2019). Nowhere is this more true new phenomenon developed - than the beauty industry.
10 11 - GROWTH FACTORS -
There are a range of factors contributing to this extraordinary growth including: consumer shifts in attitudes and behaviours, technology (including virtual created influencers), 24/7 accessibility, the rise of micro-influencers and, most recently, the unexpected effects of COVID-19. However, recent influencer scandals and an explosion in woke consumers - more savvy to the marketing tactics and potential misinformation being generated - have brought the role of influencers into question. Many brands have come to realise the obstacles they may face by using influencer marketing, as they come to terms with the fact that, to form and maintain a positive connection with consumers, they will need to be authentic, transparent, relatable and culturally relevant to ensure success (Lim, 2020).
Figure 2 - Factors affecting influencer marketing (WebMD, ThoughtCo & Ampfluence, 2020) 12 13 THE “CALL OUT CULTURE” Today, ‘social media and e-commerce have stage, where influencers are seen using converged, as brands are beginning to use the products, this then creates a ‘Desire’ to influencers as vital intermediaries’ (Schomer, buy such products through trust between 2019) of entertainment, offering ‘new and influencer and consumer, and therefore exciting ways of sharing a brand’s message’ resulting in an ‘Action’ of purchasing (Kramer, 2018), whilst also connecting brands the product from the brand through the with consumers in a more authentic way. ‘As influencers recommendation. This model is 2019). Similarly, a recent study of social media social media becomes more entrenched in evidently a success. In the UK and US, 91% of users found over 50% of users prefer getting people’s lives and takes on more functional consumers aged 16-24 credited influencers product information from influencers, rather uses beyond communication, like shopping, with purchases made in the past six months than a company’s ads, whilst 34% claim to Edelman’s most recent annual global trust the role of influencers is set to only grow’ (Forrester, 2019). have solely found the brand because of an survey shows the largest ever trust inequality (Schomer, 2019) within the coming years. influencers post (Gotter, 2020). gap (the difference in trust levels between But the success of influencer marketing for the informed and mass population) – a gap AIDA (Dahlén, Lange and Smith, 2010) is a brands extends beyond the AIDA benefits. Nevertheless, consumer behaviour is of 16 points vs only 6pts in 2012. Whilst in the well-known marketing model companies More importantly, the trust built between changing dramatically through a volatile UK, the trust inequality gap is 24 points - its have used to develop their communications influencer and consumer is an integral piece economy, the decline of high-street shopping, largest ever recorded gap (Edelman, 2019). strategy when using influencers and enables of the influencer marketing puzzle. In a study dying consumer groups, over production Consumers are becoming increasingly woke one to understand the vital role they play conducted by Adweek, it was found that and growing sustainability awareness, which and sceptical of brands and their marketing at each stage of the consumer decision ’49% of participants made a purchase based combined, are breaking all established rules tactics. Building and maintaining trust is making process. ‘Awareness’ of the product/ upon an influencer’s recommendation, of consumer behaviour known within the crucial to not only their growth but also their brand, is created through collaborating whilst 44% said they generally trust the fashion and beauty industry (Fashion Beauty survival. with influencers, moving onto the ‘Interest’ recommendations of influencers’ (Suciu, Monitor, 2018). 14 15 -SPOTLIGHT ON INFLUENCERS -
Influencer marketing has faced its own trust issue challenges. In a recent survey conducted by Takumi, it was discovered that 73% of participants unfollowed influencers for making disingenuous endorsements and 68% of participants stated discovering the purchase of fake followers by influencers they follow (Forrester, 2019). Moreover, it was discovered through primary research that when it comes to beauty, only 18% of participants trusted influencers when searching for information on beauty products, whilst micro-influencers stood at 7% (Muncer, 2020).
Trust and credibility are both huge challenges which brands and influencers are beginning to face, especially with their digital native ‘Gen Z audiences who are more aware of the falsity of social media personas’ (Hennigan, 2020), which is resulting in high demand and expectation of brands to use influencer Figure 3 - James Charles (Influencer) (New York Post, 2019). marketing as a more transparent strategy to promote content (Hennigan, 2020).
Two very recent influencer trends have also caused widespread media attention: The ethical question of the rise of mass (paid for) micro influencers in the upcoming US election and the increasing use of virtual influencers (computer generated avatars) to develop brand created and controlled influencers – Looking forward, if this does not change, the ‘lack of trust among who act exactly like their human equivalents. the youngest and most influential consumer group could have impacts on the influencer industry, especially when considering influencers roles in driving purchases’(Hennigan, 2020)
16 17 THE REGULATORS RESPONSE
Perhaps the biggest challenge than whether the influencer is
facing influencer marketing today, suitably educated on the product “Influencers are required in particular to clearly is recent and rapid global reaction they are endorsing or promoting disclose the commercial link between the from regulators and national – ultimately failing to deal with the advertising and marketing industry trust issue. influencer and the brand, through the use of specific watchdogs. Nearly every country has introduced new guidelines In a primary interview, the head of disclaimers. However, as such, it is not required for for influencer marketing including the French advertising association the UK’s Advertising Standard (ARPP) explained their local the influencer to be qualified in any way to advertise Association (ASA), Australia’s requirements and those of most the branded product” (Bouchernard, 2020). Association of National Advertisers advertising watchdogs: and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) in the US. However, their focus has consistently been on disclosure i.e. whether posts are clearly ‘labelled’ as adverts rather
18 19 -INFLUENCER REGULATIONS -
In January 2020, the UK’s Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) ‘set out guidelines for what constitutes an advertisement, how to properly disclose an advertisement and the ramifications for not correctly disclosing paid and unpaid promotions’ (Louise, 2020). These included: Figure 4 - Impact of digital-born consumers on beauty businesses (Beauty Monitor, 2020). • Say when you’ve been paid, given, or loaned things • Be clear about your relationship with brands However, a recent study by the prosecutions or bans. Influencer • Don’t be misleading UK watchdog, ‘reviewing public disclosure rules in most markets • Disclose in a way that is honest, understanding around social media and on most social media platforms transparent, easy to understand ads to gauge whether its regulation are as simple as placing #ad in their and unambiguous was effective’ (Bergman, 2019), post. • Disclosure should be upfront concluded in their findings that these guidelines were too vague and However, in an exception to this These guidelines, are a step forward in need more clarity on instructions for approach, Chinese regulators promoting transparency in influencer influencers to follow. Moreover, there have introduced a blanket ban on marketing and ‘important when is also concern that due to rapidly influencers endorsing medical and considering that influencers’ social changing guidelines, it can be healthcare products rather than find media accounts usually include both difficult for brands and influencers a more workable solution. personal posts alongside paid-for to keep up to date with the ever- promotions’ (Breen, 2019), whilst their changing regulations that they are Many commentators predict it is credibility is often perceived through told to follow (Qudsi, 2020). As a now only a matter of time before the trust and how genuine their posts result, rather than create greater a serious influencer scandal will are to their followers (Breen, 2019). It clarity for influencers and brands force the regulators to take more is suggested that through following and greater transparency and trust draconian action across the wider government guidelines and ‘requiring for consumers, there is increased influencer industry. Therefore ‘it may such levels of transparency, ensures confusion (Figure 4). be best to prepare for a more heavily- that the influencer is able to maintain regulated future. No one wants to be trust with their following and preserves While some regulators have taken the first domino in an enforcement their value as a marketing channel for enforcement action (the FTC avalanche, or an unlucky needle the brand’(Breen, 2019). recently wrote to a number of picked out of the haystack of influencer offenders), to date, few if violators’ (Waxman, 2020). any, have led to any meaningful fines,
20 21 BEAUTY AND THE 73% of the beauty Nevertheless, it is also one of the INFLUENCER industry say sectors to receive the biggest Gen Z are now backlash from consumers online, pushing them BEAST due to lack of transparency and false to be more influencer information. According to transparent Mintel research, 25% of adults who follow beauty influencers struggle to find beauty influencers they can The beauty industry is one of the largest users of influencer marketing as a way trust. This figure rises to 30% for of promoting products, with ‘98% of the beauty industry believing that influencer Gen Z consumers (Hennigan, 2020). marketing is effective’ (Beauty Monitor, 2020). A recent survey published by Harvard Business School found that influencers are now the leading source of The most recent Beauty Influencing product information for female beauty shoppers (Figure 5) (Gerdeman,2019). report from Fashion Beauty Monitor, revealed that brands are being advertising followers, can have encouraged to be more mindful damaging effects on influencers, of the influencers they choose to costing them future collaboration work for them, as 73% of the beauty with brands, loss of followers and industry say Gen Z are now pushing their trustworthy reputations. them to be more transparent than
ever before, due to their new set Leading beauty YouTuber, Marlena of expectations as a digital-born Stell, shone a light on the amount generation (Beauty Monitor, 2020). of money beauty influencers were It’s these ‘tech savvy youths, [...] who being paid to promote products in are the first to quickly discern what’s her 2018 video ‘My Truth Regarding fact and what’s fiction’ (Suciu, 2019) the Beauty Community’. She when engaging with an influencer. later named and shamed certain As a result, ‘a number of celebrities influencers and their brands for and high-profile influencers have failing to disclose important product found themselves subject to ASA and safety information. action over the labelling of their posts in the past’ (Bergman, 2019), These factors have combined to due to falsely informing followers create a wave of discontent, which or hiding the fact their posts have influencers and the industry are been paid for. The results of falsely now challenged with addressing to assure their future relevance.
Figure 5 - Results of where consumers seek information about beauty products (Harvard Business school, 2019).
Figure 6 - Beauty industry transparency expectancy in % (Muncer, 2020). 22 23 COVID
In late 2019, the infectious virus COVID-19, began its spread across the globe, disrupting the populations regular daily lives and shaking up every industry. With the closing of retail stores, jobs put on hold and only essential travel allowed, this pandemic left the economy and the future of many brands desperately searching are expected to last even afterCRISIS for strategies to survive. A third the virus’ spread diminishes’ of UK retailers within the food, (Pastore & Debroff, 2020). fashion and health and beauty industry stated it would cause a With such shifts and uncertainty significantly negative impact on in this time, it is ‘crucial for their sales (Statista, 2020). brands to be able to ‘step up’’ (Chitrakorn, 2020) and quickly Not only has COVID-19 adapt to creating new and more impacted most industries, but impactful strategies to ensure it has also ‘profoundly shifted they maintain the loyalty of their consumers’(Pastore & Debroff, customers. One huge platform 2020) shopping behaviours with brands have had no choice but long-term repercussions, ‘which to turn to is social media, where access to information is available 24/7, to interact with and entertain consumers. AFTERSHOCK
24 25 The problem was highlighted well by one beauty blogger during a primary interview who Moreover, due to this increase in revealed that: consumer expectancy from brands through online marketing, influencer marketing has been a crucial strategy for many fashion and beauty brands, relying on consumer When working with beauty engagement with influencers for “ brands in particular, I find ” survival in these unpredictable times. Before COVID-19, it was that they will give you a brief uncertain whether the influencer marketing landscape was on a outline of the product they decline, due to ‘product-heavy are launching/wanting you to content and constant projection of Nevertheless, ‘breaking through the unrealistically perfect standards’ noise with authentic and truthful promote, but unless you ask (Theodosi, 2020), it had become the message is harder than ever for ‘antithesis of authenticity and an today’s marketer’ (Suciu, 2019), as specific questions, they won’t inverse image of what captured the ‘financial difficulties brought by the send over an ingredients list or imagination of followers in the first pandemic have put even greater place’ (Bakhtiari, 2020). strain on brands’ (Biondi, 2020). further details on the product. Therefore, transparency is key if (Anonymous,2020) However, a marketing strategy companies are looking to continue which had evidently began to honouring their commitments ‘lack strategic insight or creative regarding social and environmental A leading influencer marketing legal practitioner interviewed added: direction’ (Bakhtiari, 2020), has issues, as consumers are having quickly transformed during this more time to really look at the crisis as brands and influencers are brands that are not disclosing any having to break through traditional information(Biondi, 2020), as we You can already see that there will methods (Moore, 2020) to create ‘enter a new era of people-powered be tensions around clean / natural more meaningful and engaging marketing’ (Bakhtiari, 2020). “ ” marketing messages in a time where beauty products and those that are ‘consumers will be loyal to those that In particular, consumers are they consider to be the most vital to questioning the safety of products more synthetic as well as the age old them’ (Chitrakorn, 2020). and especially less well-known area of “claims” and how marketing beauty ingredients that are applied to your face or skin. So messages are delivered against a called natural ‘clean products’ championed in recent years by greater desire for higher educational many brands and influencers, are and ethical standards. (Payne, 2020) now being questioned. According to Mintel research on ingredient trends in beauty, nearly half of ‘COVID-19 is a catalyst towards this movement, with brands facing more pressure to convey women who use beauty products safety, longevity and efficacy. To avoid distrust, brands must educate consumers about the agree it’s important to understand benefits and stability of synthetic ingredients, while providing evidence and certifications/ the ingredients used in their beauty seals of approval that denotes product safety’ (Hennigan, 2020). products (Mintel,2018). Ultimately, ‘brands that demonstrate their dependability, transparency and willingness to take action to ensure product safety will be rewarded by consumers’ (Hennigan, 2020).
26 27 MORPHE
Morphe began as an online American artists, and bloggers who were all beauty brand, born in 2008 and figuring out social media at the same made for ‘the creators, the dreamers time’(Toneguzzi, 2019). By spotting and those looking for killer makeup this opportunity early on, it also without killing their wallet’ (Morphe, allowed the brand to provide products 2020). Originally gaining huge to makeup artists who were needing traction among makeup artists and the support to get off the ground, influencers in Los Angeles, the brand which over the years, has enabled has built a strong global following the beauty brand to build ‘over 300 over the last 12 years with over 10.5 affiliates who are makeup artists with million followers on their Instagram large fan followings that advocate for 03 account today and a total of 29 stores Morphe’(Toneguzzi, 2019). world-wide, with plans to open more in the coming years. Through analysing Morphe’s brand identity (Figure 8), it is evident that 03 The beauty brand first began selling Morphe products have become a high quality makeup brushes, after “must-have” tool for many beauty spotting a gap in the market where influencers, allowing the brand and there were limited high-quality its products to expand and gain an makeup brushes for makeup artists even greater audience reach through and anyone who was passionate their influencer engagement across about beauty. With a rapidly growing social media platforms. Through recognition of Morphe within this creating a solid influencer marketing beauty community, the ‘brand strategy, it ‘offers a unique experience recognised the power of social media to their audience by allowing them in the early stages of building their to get to know the influencer and company’ (Toneguzzi, 2019). This interact with them just as if they were allowed the brand to adapt and align friends’ (Medium, 2019) creating a their ‘online brand with other beauty stronger relationship between brand, makeup artists, aspiring makeup influencer and consumers.
Figure 7 - Lipstick Smudge (Confetti, 2020) 28 29 MORPHE IDENTITY PRISM
PHYSIQUE PERSONALITY
- Online - On trend - Monotone packaging - Young - Beauty tools and - Creative products - Unique - High quality - Beauty focused - Affordable pricing - Professional - Inclusive
RELATION- CULTURE However, although Morphe has seen huge success within the beauty industry, it has had its fair share of setbacks along the way, specifically involving their SHIP influencer collaborations. One of their most well-known influencers, James Charles, - Engaging was criticised by customers for ‘releasing the same 39 colour palette he launched relationship with with Morphe’ (Idika, 2019) a year before, leaving customers ‘calling the release a - Accessible to make “money grab”’ (Idika, 2019). But, the most recent and biggest backlash Morphe up artists and beauty consumers online - US based but known has experienced not only affected the brand but also had a huge impact on the lovers influencer, Jaclyn Hill, who was releasing her second eyeshadow palette in 2020 - Wide variety of world wide - High quality but three years after the success of her first (Vol. 1) vegan and cruelty-free palette with products the beauty brand. - Part of a professional affordable beauty community - Passion for creativity among makeup enthusiasts
REFLECTION SELF-IMAGE
- 18-35 year olds - More affordable than - Makeup artists/ competitors beauty enthusiasts - Wide-range of products/ - Influencer colour palettes engagement - High quality for the price of - Social media savvy products - Affordable beauty - Inspiring makeup artists products - Variety of products allows greater creativity for the consumer Figure8 Morphe- Identity Prism (Dahlén, Lange and Smith, 2010) adaptedfrom (Kapferer, 1992) 30 31 MORPHE Failing to announce the new formula adjustments not only affected Morphe, but also resulted in damaging the trust Jacklyn Hill had spent years building X with her followers, negatively impacting her influencer reputation - even though she had not been a part of the changes JACLYN HILL going on behind the scenes. CASE STUDY
The issue was first raised by well- The discovery that the palette followed YouTuber, ‘Jen Luvs was falsely labelled as vegan and Reviews’, who noticed differences cruelty-free when it no longer was, in swatches between the two gained huge negative coverage for supposedly same palettes. Morphe the brand and Jaclyn Hill. It also initially stated it must be a defected led many customers questioning palette and did not state any whether other Morphe products Figure 9 - Morphe Twitter Apology formula changes. However, Jen they had purchased also contained (Morphe, 2020). decided to do further research, similar ingredients. As a result, only to discover the ingredients Morphe had no choice but to admit had in fact changed, ‘adding Shae that they had to adjust the formula Butter, Coconut Oil and Jojoba Oil to stay up to date with the industry which reduces the shelf lives of standards and had not informed products’(Wijdan,2020). But the Jaclyn on these changes either most shocking discovery was the (Figure 9). Morphe then further introduction of Carmine to the released a statement saying ‘“we This lack in communication and understanding between new palette, a pigment which is hear our customers’ request for brand and influencer, has been a huge problem within the ‘produced by drying, crushing, and more clarity and promise to increase wider influencer marketing industry recently. An influencer then boiling the bodies of cochineal transparency in any formula interviewed for this research, explained the problem that beetles to extract carminic acid’ modifications for the benefit of our they ‘do often get targeted for brands mistakes’ (Anonymous, (Wijdan,2020). customers”’ (Morphe, 2020). 2020). This can lead to long-term damaging effects on their careers - without being the ones directly responsible - as followers are quick to judge influencers who they can and can’t trust with a simple click to unfollow.
32 33 Strengths: Weaknesses:
• Range of products • Very little focus on CSR beyond the basic • Low pricing for high quality products reporting requirements • Successful collaborations with well-known • The brand lacks transparency through From the SWOT analysis (Figure 10) of Morphe influencers marketing their products and researching the mistakes they have made in • World-wide access to purchase products • Morphe lack in customer service as ‘many the past, it is clear that education and disclosure • Heavily focuses on social media and fans have complained across their social standards must be tightened or a new, industry influencer marketing to promote products platforms of poor quality products and specific, regulatory standard introduced, for beauty which has ensured a efficient and successful undelivered packages’ (Medium, 2019) brands who use influencer marketing. This must be strategy for Morphe • Lack of communication has led to Morphe done to avoid damaging the brand and influencer’ facing bad press from mass media, by not reputation, whilst also protecting consumers from informing their consumers on changes false advertisements and misleading information. within product ingredients, which has For Morphe itself, to look to develop such a S concludedW in less trust between the beauty strategy to deal with the wider industry issue will brand and its customers. exhibit radical transparency within its influencer and overall marketing strategies. As importantly, it will help ‘create long-lasting relationships with Opportunities: Threats: all stakeholders and in this way, it will become the first step towards overcoming the weaknesses and • Morphe could open more stores globally • Becoming more transparent, may involve threats and securing strengths and opportunities of to build greater awareness of the brand in releasing new information that the brand the company, which ultimately, leads to achieving a different countries may not want to expose, resulting in a sustainable competitive advantage and long-term • To be more transparent to their consumer, negative impact on Morphe profitability’ (Vaselinova & Samonikov, 2018). the brand could introduce a new regulation • COVID-19 has cut back brands spending, for influencers to abide by before promoting on social media advertising (DeBroff, 2020) products to reduce consumer complaints which could have a negative impact on the and negative reviews. sales and awareness of the brand as they • Create a more inclusive branding strategy rely heavily on online platforms to promote to capture the interest of those who like the brand and Morphe products. makeup but are not professionals • Industry standards/regulations are • Use micro-influencer to branch out to a constantly changing and adapting, so wider audience who may trust the opinion Morphe will have to continuously stay up to of a smallerO following influencer, than one date with theseT regulations, for safety of the who may be promoting for clout. brand and consumers.
Figure 10- Morphe SWOT Analysis (Posner, 2015)
34 35 MORPHE BEAUTY EMPOWERED ENGAGERS
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04 Figure 11 - Morphe Influencers (Allure, 2019). 36 37 influencer marketing standards which needs to be filled to increase transparency, education and value between all parties involved within influencer marketing. Therefore, Morphe will propose a new beauty education and influencer marketing standard, to tackle the issues and opportunities which have been highlighted throughout section 2 and 3.
Initially the proposed Morphe strategy sought to gain B endorsement from the advertising regulatory bodies. However, BEAUTY following primary interviews with the leaders of four of the world’s leading advertising regulators the consensus of opinion from them was that, while supportive of E industry led initiatives to improve EMPOWERED influencer marketing standards, it was deemed beyond their primary purpose and, in the case of beauty specifically, their area E of expertise. This view was well summarised in a primary research ENGAGERS interview with the CEO of the UK’s Advertising Standard Authority; The recent Mintel ‘2030 Global Consumer Trend’ report “Standards like this invariably predicts that brands that want to succeed in the next decade have to make their own way in will have to focus on authenticity and transparency, show the world, attracting supporters value and empowerment, whilst also proactively engaging through providing a compelling with younger generation concerns (Mintel, 2020). Ultimately, business/ethical case, with a they must focus on building and maintaining trust with their view of achieving critical mass customers. support” (Parker, 2020). The head of Australia’s equivalent agency Morphe is a prime example of a brand facing all these added: “Advertiser associations challenges. Taking into account the most recent backlash do not have the knowledge and Morphe has faced with influencer, Jaclyn Hill, whilst also expertise of the beauty industry considering Morphe’s SWOT analysis, and Mintel’s future to set these standards” (Broome, strategies to thrive, it is clear that there is a gap within 2020). 38 39 The proposed standard will include three key elements to achieving a more transparent and authentic influencer marketing experience:
A beauty and brand education programme and qualification – initially pioneered by Morphe but later 01. becoming an industry-wide recognised standard
An advertising and influencer marketing regulatory education programme and exam – based on the countries with the current highest influencer 02. advertising and promotion regulatory standards Figure 12 - Morphe Influencers (Morphe, 2019).
In 2004 beauty goods giant Dove, will enable Morphe and its influencers An annual recertification programme to ensure new introduced its ‘Campaign for Real Beauty’ to avoid miscommunication, whilst developments are covered initiating a global conversation around also helping to build a stronger trusting ‘real’ female body image rather than the relationship between their followers/ 03. stereotypical ‘perfect’ image portrayed consumers, through a more transparent by the fashion industry. Over 16 years on, way of approaching influencer marketing this campaign is still differentiating the and advertising. This would also be a step brand and sparked the beauty world into up from the current plethora of domestic, taking a hard look at itself and the models disclosure-only, focused influencer and images it uses to promote its goods. promotion regulations whilst also being Using these key elements will allow Morphe, to implement a wider marketing strategy to differentiate both a key part of differentiating the brand their brand and strengthen consumer trust while also setting a ‘gold standard’ for the entire industry Morphe’s ‘Beyond Skin Deep Campaign’ and its marketing strategy and a potential to potentially follow when engaging with influencers. What’s more, the standard bridges the gap in will seek to shine a light on the influencer industry-wide led and owned solution national regulatory standards and ensures influencers are constantly educated and up to date with marketing world through a new, branded, that could be adopted or endorsed by the ‘global’ industry/advertising regulations as well as changes to the brand and its products. standard. Developing such a standard other beauty brands.
40 41 MORPHE MORPHE BEEs BEAUTY EMPOWERED ENGAGERS TRAINING COURSE
The new standard will be based around an initial six-hour, four module, training course for Each module will include an influencers that Morphe work or plan to work with. This course will educate the beauty examination to test the influencer, influencers on: which they must pass before BEE they can continue with the next stage. On completing the four modules, Morphe will certify their influencers as a ‘Beauty Empowered Engager’ (BEEs). The ‘BEE Standard’ will be visually displayed on qualified influencers is important that the information 1. The brand history and brand values posts as a way of clearly is factual’ (Anonymous, 2020). highlighting and differentiating Therefore, these four modules their recommendations from will be very educationally 2. Supply chain/manufacturing processes and non-qualified influencers. focused and ensure all aspects of the brand and what is expected ESG matters A year after taking this test, a of an influencer is thoroughly further two-hour training refresh covered and the influencer feels and examination must be taken, confidently connected to Morphe 3. The Morphe products and their ingredients to ensure influencers are up to rather than ‘over-sold’, through date with any changes to the the beauty education standard regulations or brand. When process. The fine line between 4. The current range of influencer advertising and interviewing a current beauty educating and selling was one of influencer, they felt that that ‘it the few early criticisms of Dove’s marketing regulations and how to follow these. campaign but one they have largely overcome by constantly holding themselves to a higher standard and always positioning the bigger issue message first.
42 43 THE ‘BEE’ Module 3: PROCESS Products and Ingredients
Module 1: Information covering products, ingredients Morphe Intorduction and formulas that have been made for each product. Providing understanding of what goes into making Morphe products – an issue A brand timeline will be presented, they have previously encountered backlash including Morphe milestones such as, from by failing to inform influencers on the launch dates, original product releases and formula changes that have been made to first influencer collaborations. Key information keep up with beauty regulations. such as demographics of target audience and competitor analysis will also be included. The brand values will also be clearly stated, so influencers are fully aware of what the brand stands for and hopes to achieve through brand equity.
Module 4: The Current Influencer Regulations Module 2: Supply Chain & Manufacturing A thorough explanation of the current regulations that influencers must follow in the Including documents stating where Morphe UK, US, China and Australia. Demonstrating products are manufactured, health and safety examples of how and what influencers can and regulations for buildings and staff safety. Also, cannot post, so that they are clearly aware of the information on how their products are distributed steps that must be taken to promote beauty to stores and online, so the influencer is fully products - highlighting how important these educated on behind the scenes of the beauty steps are for their roles as an influencer brand and the involvement concerning their and the negative impacts it can have staff. This segment will also cover Morphe’s if done incorrectly. ESG strategy and track record.
Figure 13 - The Bee Process (Muncer, 2020). 44 45 By becoming a BEE, it will ensure that the content which influencers are generating whilst working with Morphe, include informative value, advertising value, credibility and SUPPORTING an entertainment value, resulting in a more transparent and authentic approach to regulating the influencer marketing strategies that Morphe hopes to use. Moreover, this will METHODOLOGIES also increase the trust between consumer, influencer and brand, by ensuring consumers/followers feel confident with the information the influencer is passing onto them about AND METRICS Morphe and its beauty products.
Morphe would apply The Social to a more trusted and transparent Media Influencer Value model influencer marketing approach. (SMIV) (Lou and Yuan, 2019) - The approach supports messenger which focuses on the value of the features (i.e. credibility), through authenticity, credibility and trust factual and reliable information of the carrier of the message - to passed down from brand - measure their influencer marketing influencer - consumer. In their success rather than the traditional research, Lou and Yuan concluded industry models like ‘equivalent that it is certain that ‘the perceived advertising value’ – which focuses informativeness value and on number of followers, size of post entertainment value of influencer- and less credibility focused criteria. generated posts, will positively This would disrupt the advertising affect consumer trust’ (Lou and industry by challenging it to focus Yuan, 2019). In Morphe’s influencer’ on trust as a more important branded posts, therefore it is vital measure of actual marketing value that influencers pass all modules to or marketing return on investment successfully become a BEE so that (MROI). it can create a stronger connection with its existing and new customers By proposing a beauty education versus rival brands that do not do standard and measuring it via SMIV, this. Morphe would also align its brand
Figure 14 - The Social Media Influencer Model (Lou and Yuan, 2019).
46 47 Applying the value net (Thind, 2018)(Figure 14), to analyse the competitive advantage of the beauty educational standard; it would provide Morphe, the influencers used and consumers/ followers a ‘unique opportunity to bring unparalleled value to their customers [...] allowing them to differentiate against their competitors’ (Ordenes, 2018) through a new approach to STRENGTHENING influencer marketing. According to Roger’s Diffusion of Innovation theory (Rogers, 1962., adapted CSR from Raymond, 2010), this would place Morphe at the ‘Innovator’ stage within the beauty industry, CREDENTIALS as it has not yet been proposed by any other brand within the industry. This is crucial for a brand, such as Figure 15 - The Value Net Model (Thind, 2018). Morphe, to ‘ensure competitive advantage is a constant evolving An additional benefit of the new BEE standard ‘may offer more value market, in terms of consumer campaign will be the opportunity to or even simply replace the old way of’ expectations’ (Vasiliu and Cercel, enhance Morphe’s Corporate, Social (Thind, 2018) working with influencers 2015). and Responsibility (CSR) credentials. and may ‘become the benchmark for the According to Rexhepi et al. (2013), next generation’ (Thind, 2018) of more ‘innovation-driven Corporate Social transparent and ethical beauty influencer Responsibility (CSR) is about doing marketing standards. Furthermore, using the value things right’ (Rexhepi et al., 2013) and linkage model (Thind, 2018) therefore ‘may be more associated with Ultimately, the proposed strategy and (Figure 15), the BEE concept will creating social processes that are driven campaign will ‘move [Morphe] from create value, through aligning the by value’ (Rexhepi et al., 2013). Thus, a narrow focus, to a game changing standard and the consumer in a considering Morphe’s current standard approach’ (Thind, 2018) within the beauty holistic manner; being presented CSR approach (see SWOT), it ‘can only industry, as it ‘re-aligns solving social through the value driver of play a limited role in impacting society needs of consumers, allowing Morphe to customer intimacy and value chain as it is unable to achieve sustainable create shared value as sustainable, and integrators (influencers). Through scale and does not fully solve society’s henceforth be the driver to the next wave these drivers, it will increase value main problems’ (Thind, 2018). Therefore, of innovation, productivity and economic for both Morphe and the BEEs, by integrating a more extensive CSR growth’(Thind, 2018). creating stronger brand awareness, approach and disclosure as part of the increased loyalty and trust through real time information on the brand, whilst also creating an emotional connection for the consumer, ‘which can prolong brand advocacy’ looking forward(Thind, Figure 16 - The Value Linkage Model (Thind, 2018). 2018).
48 49 A I D A PHASE 1 PHASE 2 PHASE 3 PHASE 4 RESEARCH & EFFECTIVENESS & STAGE DEVELOPMENT SOFT PRE-LAUNCH HARD LAUNCH FUTURE STEPS
Morphe to research & develop BES Morphe launch event which will invite Earned media: Launch press release, Adapt campaign messaging as appropriate (Beauty Education Standard) and press & influencers to introduce the new supporting PR – industry publications, from first quarter results. Promote first confirm current assumptions. Establish BES. Focusing on goal of new approach, national press, TV – focusing on batch of qualified BEEs via social posts an ‘influencer working group’ and gaps in current industry approach, value consumer, beauty and talk shows ACTIVITY ‘influencer hackathon’, research to influencers and consumers and concept especially online shows. On first anniversary: Publish new consumer trends regarding increased of a new future of trust and transparency Social media posts of research and new consumer research to show increased awareness of transparency and trust, in the beauty industry. Begin to post BEE standard and certification logo. trust in BEEs vs Non BEEs. Highlight whilst also analysing the current beauty teaser information on Morphe social recertification programme. & advertising regulations. media platforms to create buzz. Introduce Paid Media: Digital advertising across ‘Beyond Skin Deep’ tag line, to highlight Morphe’s key social media channels and Evaluate all company wide practices to the current superficial state of the beauty key online consumer publications. ensure in line with BES. industry in relation to meaningful Video to explain BES and new and effective influencer and brand certification logo. Update marketing strategy to rolling transparency. Educational Webinars to allow multiyear approach. Develop & design the BES, including Establish the BEE standard as a global influencers, marketing industry and the influencer course and BEEs industry first. Introduce the new ‘Beyond media to learn more - including qualification. Skin Deep’ Campaign and tagline. panellists from regulators, influencers, GOAL Develop first year marketing plan regulations and education. By doing this consumer champions. covering earned and paid media. Morphe will aim to show how the brand Promotion of the BES across all Morphe Further research & develop the BES Ensure core group of influencers views is considering consumers expectations in social media platforms & beauty to ensure the beauty and advertising have been considered. regards to more transparent/ authentic influencers social media accounts who regulations and also Morphe formula influencer marketing after previous are already BEEs. Press release also sent information, is up do date for influencer. failures to act this way in the past. Also, out. Therefore, ensuring increased ensuring they highlight that a BES is an transparency through using the up-to-date innovation within the industry. standard. Consumer focus groups and influencer Feedback from press & influencers, as well Coverage from social media/press Evaluate number of influencers who have working group plus consultation with as the opinions and reactions to Morphe’s & also number of influencer posts become BEEs, as well as the awareness country advertising and marketing teaser posts. about the BES – using the SMIV levels of the brand & beauty influencers MEASURE- regulators to test out the BES and the measurement. Analysis of sales to see involved since introducing the BES. modules involved, to ensure all topics whether consumers are buying more MENT and factual information are covered and from the beauty brand. Also, analysis of Brand and consumer awareness, correct. Baseline brand awareness survey beauty influencers who are BEEs, to see understanding, trust research. – including trust and transparency to act whether their following has increased as benchmark for year one performance. since introducing the standard to their Increase in SMIV measurement. social media platforms.
Figure 17 - Morphe BES AIDA Model (Posner, 2015).
50 51 Introducing Morphe’s Latest BEE
The AIDA model (Figure 17) will be the framework used for the development, launch and measurement of the BES (Beauty Education Standard) marketing strategy that will utilise the ‘Beyond Skin Deep’ campaign tagline. For Morphe, phases 2&3 will arguably Figure 18B - Beyond Skin Deep campaign website be the most crucial, as they will be (Plus PNG et al., 2020). the phases where influencer and consumers/followers will need to be drawn to the idea of a BES and how it will positively impact them (Tyagi and Kumar, 2004). Ensuring Being a heavily focused on-line Morphe use the correct marketing and digital-first brand, social media activities within these phases, platforms will be a key media for will allow maximum awareness, reaching their followers, influencers education, engagement and, and press. By using these platforms, perhaps key, adoption of what the it will ensure that the BES is clearly brand is attempting to achieve by targeted and communicated to its introducing the BES. existing audience and, by adding Figure18C Morphe- BEEs Instagram feed & online promotions (Morphe et al., 2020). further paid for media (Figure 18), will reach new influencers and consumers - not just those who are beauty experts. Therefore, Morphe will need to key media and influencers - ensuring ensure that their communication the key messages and programme However, as highlighted through strategy, especially through phase elements are understood 2. a primary interview with a French 2&3, is very factual, highlights Webinars with wider audiences – board member of the National the educational and consumer panellists will include regulators, Advertising Standard Body, there champion intent and emphasises marketing industry, influencers is a risk that ‘for the consumers, that the innovation brings the wider and consumer champions – to knowing that the influencer has industry a step closer to increasing create a more independent and received a training / qualification transparency and authenticity less sales focused perception 3. does not remove the commercial of influencer marketing within Paid for online consumer targeted link between the influencer and the beauty industry. Ultimately, advertising focusing on the BES the brand, as the qualified person creating greater trust between and the qualification BEE logo – to would still be compensated for the brands, influencers and consumers. increase brand awareness of the advertising’ (Bouchernard, 2020). As highlighted in the marketing initiative while carefully linking it to Figure 18A - Beyond Skin Deep ad campaign strategy, this will be done in a Morphe. (see also figure 20 p.g. 59) (Morphe, 2020). number of ways: 1. A soft-launch to
52 53 LIMITATIONS of the BEAUTY EDUCATION STANDARD
As previously highlighted by both the downsized their influencer campaigns primary regulator interviews and the Dove due to the coronavirus pandemic’ (Lieber, campaign case study, the importance 2020) to save money. It must also be of Morphe maintaining the campaign considered whether the success of the as a multi-year marketing programme BES, could lead to copycat standards from is key. Therefore, Morphe will need to rival brands which might dilute their early continuously research and develop this adopter advantage. However, if beauty standard on a regular basis, to ensure the brands were to attempt to copy rather than BES remains up-to-date, which may be adopt the original Morphe BES, it would time consuming and also increase costs not be seen as an original innovation for the brand. Nevertheless, it will also strategy within the beauty industry and give them (at least) an annual opportunity likely viewed as unnecessarily confusing to: Update their communications and by consumers and influencers alike. align them to the latest trends, highlight Therefore, provided Morphe maintains its their BEE programme and increase brand focus and standards and keeps a good awareness via the overarching (earned balance between industry champion and and paid) Beyond Skin Deep campaign. selling the brand, it will likely always be seen as the innovator and most trusted This additional time and cost may impact brand when it comes to influencer and the longer-term marketing strategy goal wider marketing in the beauty world. of making this an industry wide standard - especially in a time where ‘brands have
Figure 19 - Morphe Influencers (Allure, 2019). 54 55 CON- In its short but significant history, influencer marketing in the beauty industry has been through a rollercoaster journey. As beauty consumers’ shopping From people’s champion and one behaviours shift to a more conscious of the beauty brands’ biggest mindset, people are becoming growth tools to some of the worst more aware of the lack of (or even industry influencer scandals, it has false) information which beauty rarely been out of the spotlight. brands often provide - especially At the same time, regulators and through their influencer marketing advertising watchdogs around the strategies. Expose documentaries world have been slow to react, such as ‘Blind Boy Undestroys lacked consistency and clarity in The World’ and ‘Beauty Laid Bare’, their influencer guidelines and, to have left consumers questioning date, have been largely toothless in fact from fiction. As one media their action to protect consumers. commentator recently concluded: ‘Your generation [Gen Z] should However, it may be that the industry’s and the world’s most destructive global crisis be commended for asking for utter also offers influencer marketing its biggest opportunity to re-establish its relevancy and transparency - where an ingredient trust as we enter a new world normal. The anxiety and uncertainty of COVID-19, has led came from, who it’s for and some to a greater need for reliable, trustworthy and authentic influencer marketing within the of the old guard who might be beauty industry than ever before. Beauty ‘brands that demonstrate their dependability, resistant to that, will suffer in the transparency and willingness to take action to ensure product safety will be rewarded long run’ (BBC Three, 2020). by consumers’ (Hennigan, 2020) and the ones to succeed in the long run. CLUSION 56 57 Figure 20 - Beyond Skin Deep Morphe campaign (Morphe, 2020).
By adopting a beauty influencer for Morphe but the wider beauty education standard that seeks industry. to create greater education, authenticity, transparency and trust While there are risks to this strategy, But perhaps most importantly, during this unpredictable time for and the brand will undoubtedly out of the ashes of a crisis consumers would enable Morphe be held to higher standards than to set the (influencer) tone for all others, this approach will potentially where people more than any beauty brands to follow. The four- allow Morphe to gain a significant part BEE certification bridges many competitive advantage. Initially, time in history are searching for of the industry and regulatory Morphe will gain from greater those they can trust, there is gaps that exist globally today awareness for taking the first step and the significant short fallings in making influencer marketing an opportunity for influencers in the company’s own influencer more transparent within the and the brands that use them to marketing strategy. Ensuring beauty industry – utilising the BEE consumers can be more confident certification mark and the wider press reset and return the world that BEE influencers are fully up- ‘Beyond Skin Deep’ marketing of influencers back to what many to-date and educated on the brand strategy that has been outlined. If the and their products, as well as the brand can make this the key pillar of would argue is their true purpose key influencer marketing rules and their multi-year marketing strategy, regulations, is an essential step then they have the opportunity to – the agents of trust. in restoring and maintaining trust retain and evolve this competitive - now and in the future - not only advantage for many years to come.
58 59 APPENDICES
1) Consent form provided by 2) Interview Questions used for the purpose of this report, including: Influencer, Regulation/ influencer who was interviewed advertising and Beauty Industry Interview Questions (Muncer, 2020). for research purposes. ERGO number: 56354 (Muncer, 2020)
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