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Imagining National Cuisine: Food, Media, and the Nation

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Imagining National Cuisine: Food, Media, and the Nation IMAGINING NATIONAL CUISINE: FOOD, MEDIA, AND THE NATION A Dissertation Submitted to the Temple University Graduate Board In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY by Jaehyeon Jeong August 2018 Examining Committee Members: Fabienne Darling-Wolf, Advisory Chair, Department of Journalism Patrick Murphy, Associate Professor, Department of Globalization and Development Communication Andrew Mendelson, Professor, Graduate School of Journalism, The City University of New York Dal Yong Jin, Professor, School of Communication, Simon Fraser University © Copyright 2018 by Jaehyeon Jeong All rights reserved ii ABSTRACT By reading food television as a cultural text, through which the nation is narrated and envisioned, this dissertation examines the evolution of Korean food television and its articulation of Koreanness in contemporary globalization. Theoretically, I suggests understanding the nation as a discourse or a regime of truth from the Foucauldian perspective. In order to bring Foucault’s relativistic notion of truth into play, this dissertation employs Fairclough’s three-dimensional approach for critical discourse analysis (CDA). Through this multi-dimensional approach, I aimed to conduct a thick description of Korean food television’s discursive practice with regard to national cuisine and the Korean nation. My historical analysis of food television shows that an increased awareness of cultural others enhances a struggle for nation-ness. By unveiling the “Janus-faced” characteristic of the nation, which is constructed both against and through differences, this dissertation identifies the inextricable relationship between the nation and globalization, and the hierarchical integration processes inherent in cultural hybridization. Moreover, this research project reveals how the nation-state actively appropriates the banality of food and is involved in the production practices of the television industry in order to produce and disseminate hegemonic discourses on the nation, and to keep nationhood near the surface of everyday life. Through an investigation of the interplay between television texts and social conditions, my dissertation also explicates the socially-constructed and the socially-constitutive nature of media discourse, and enriches the discussion regarding the production cultures of the global television industries. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS My academic journey of pursuing a doctoral degree would have been impossible without support and encouragement that I have received from many people. I am certain that it will require another chapter to thank everyone. First and foremost is my supervisor, Fabienne Darling-Wolf, who has always believed the best of me. Her warm words made me get through hard times, and her critical insights nurtured my research. I would also like to acknowledge my great committee members. Patrick Murphy challenged me to think of each theoretical concept more deeply and critically, and Andrew Mendelson guided me to enjoy every single moment of my dissertation writing. I have also had the fortune to work with Dal Yong Jin. His incisive comments greatly helped me improve my dissertation. My deep gratitude should also go to my old mentors. John A. Lent inspired me with his undiminished enthusiasm and gentle humor. I will always remember his sincere attitude toward life. TaeJin Yoon and SangGil Lee are largely responsible for my academic journey. If I had not met them in December, 2003, I would never get involved with academic world. I also want to express my love and gratitude to all my friends from Kyeongnam High School, Seoul National University, Yonsei University, New York University, and Temple University. Your friendship made my life much more beautiful and exciting. Lastly, but most importantly, I would love to thank my family. I really appreciate my parents and parents-in-law for their everlasting support and love. I just cannot thank them enough. My beloved kids, Ayden and Chloe, are the treasure of my life. I cannot even imagine my life without them. My soulmate, Hojeong Lee, you complete me! iv TABLE OF CONTENTS ABSTRACT …………………………………………………………………………….. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS …………………………………………………………….. iv LIST OF TABLES …………………………………………………………………….. viii LIST OF FIGURES ……………………………………………………………….......… xi CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION ….………………………………………….………….. 1 Food as Deep Play …………………………………………….…………….....… 1 Research Project …………………………………………………………………. 5 Chapter Breakdown …………………………………………………………….. 12 CHAPTER 2 THEORETICAL AND METHODOLOGICAL FRAMEWORKS…........ 15 The Nation as a Discourse ………………………………………………………. 15 The Nation and Popular Media ……………………………………………….… 20 The Nation and Globalization ……………………………………………….….. 23 The Era of Contemporary Accelerated Globalization …………………... 23 The Tension between the Nation and Globalization ………………..…… 25 The Janus-Faced Nation and Critical Hybridity ………………………………… 28 Critical Discourse Analysis as a Methodological Framework ……………..…… 31 Research Methods ……………………………………………………………..... 36 CHAPTER 3 THE HISTORY OF KOREAN FOOD TV AND ITS SOCIAL SITUATEDNES …………….....…………………………………………………………………...……… 43 The Development and Transformation of Food Television (1980s-2007) ……… 44 The Conditions of Food Television ………………………………………...…… 60 The Era of Instructional Cooking Shows (1980s-1993) ……………….... 61 v The Fusion between Food and Various Television Formats (1993-2000) …………………………………………………………………...……… 71 The Era of Soft-Documentary and Infotainment Show (2000-2007) ….... 83 Conclusion …………………………………………………………………….. 103 CHAPTER 4 THE EXPLOSION OF FOOD TV SINCE 2008 AND THE ARTICULATION OF MULTILAYERED SOCIAL CONDITIONS …...……………………………..…. 105 The Explosion of Food TV from 2008 to the Present ………………………….. 105 Multilayered Social Conditions of Food TV’s Explosion ……………………... 108 The Structural Changes in the Korean Television Industry ……………. 109 The Shift in Household Structure and the Rise of the Sampo Generation …... …………………………………………………………………………. 125 The Rise of Gourmet Culture and the Shift in Cultural Legitimacy of Food …………………………………………………………………………. 140 The 2008 Financial Crisis and the Downturn in Advertising Market ….. 150 Conclusion ………………………………………………………………......… 156 CHAPTER 5 THE INTERPLAY BETWEEN GOVERNMENT, FOOD INDUSTRY, AND TELEVISION PRODUCTION …………..……………………………………... 159 The State’s Involvement with National Cuisine ……………………………….. 160 “Creative Korea” and “Han-Style” Projects …………………………. 162 The Economic and Political Contexts of the Government’s Increased Interest in Food ……………………………………………………..…. 165 Towards the Establishment of the Korean Food Foundation ……...…... 169 The Korean Food Foundation and Thereafter ………………………… 178 The Articulation of Power Relations in Korean Food TV …………………..…. 188 The Execution of Government Advertising through Domestic Television …... …………………………………………………………………………. 189 vi The Negotiation of Habitus, Institutional Routines, and Power Relations ….. …………………………………………………………………………. 201 Conclusion ………………………………………………………………….…. 209 CHAPTER 6 THE STRUGGLE FOR NATIONNESS IN THE ERA OF GLOBALIZATION …………………………………..…………………………………………………..…. 211 The Interplay between State, Nation, and Television ………………………...... 213 Making a Distinctive Korean Face in Globalization ………………………..…. 218 The Rediscovery of Koreanness and the Search for the Archetype ………….… 241 Conclusion …………………………………………………………………….. 270 CHAPTER 7 ………………………………………………………………..…………. 273 REFERENCES ………………………………………………………………………... 284 vii LIST OF TABLES Table 1. The List of Interviewees ……………………………………………………….. 40 Table 2. Increasing News Articles on Cookbang, Meokbang, and Food or Cooking .............. …………………………………………………………….…………………... 49 Table 3. Food Television in the Format of Soft Documentary between 2000 and 2007 …….. …..………………………………………………………….…………...……… 56 Table 4. The Demographics from 1970 to 1985 according to Administrative Districts ........... …..………………………………………………………….………………..…. 67 Table 5. The Social Conditions that Impacted Food Landscapes in the Mid- and Late 1980s ….......………………………………………………………………………...… 69 Table 6. 20 Cable Networks Launched in March 1995 …………………………….…… 72 Table 7. Information Perception Level by Year ………………………………………… 83 Table 8. The Increase of Independent Production Companies from 1998 to 2008 ….….. 86 Table 9. The Scale of Independent Production Companies in 2005 …………………..… 86 Table 10. The Production Costs of Terrestrial Networks (2002-2007) ………………..... 88 Table 11. The Increase of Food-Related Items in VJ Special Forces …………………… 90 Table 12. The Growth of Non-Western Foreign Restaurants ………………………….... 93 Table 13. The Increase of Economic Polarization and Relative Poverty Rate ………….. 94 Table 14. The Number of Total Businesses and Employees in Food Service Industry (2000 to 2003) …...………………………………………………………………….. 98 Table 15. The Import of Japanese Broadcasting Programs …………………………..… 100 Table 16. The Rise of Momzzang (Chiseled Fitness) Discourse in the Mid-2000s ….… 102 Table 17. Food TV Produced after 2008 by Terrestrial Networks …………………..…. 107 Table 18. Social Conditions of Exponential Growth of Food TV since the Late 2000s …… …………………………………………………………….…………………. 108 Table 19. Programming Ratio of General Programming Channels from 2012 to 2015 ……... …………………………………………………………….…………………. 117 viii Table 20. Increasing News Articles on Cookbang, Meokbang, and Food or Cooking ……... …………………………………………………………….…………………. 125 Table 21. The Difference in Food Consumption Behaviors between Single-Person Households and 2+-Person Households ……………………….…………….
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