Feat ure The 100 Cols Tour

Words & photos igor kovŠ e Less is more The 100 Cols Tour is a 4,000km odyssey over mountains famous from the Tour de . Igor Kovše blitzed it on his road bike – with only 3kg of luggage

he 100 Cols Tour road book has In fact, it could be three birds: this was a means without evidence – that ultralight been in my drawer for years. I good opportunity to test a long ultralight touring reduces the number of mechanical kept it there as a joker, ready to tour with a light road bike and only 3kg of problems; decreases energy requirements T play when I retired or ran out luggage. and fatigue; increases average speed, of ideas. Traced by a Dutch cyclist, this distance and enjoyment of cycling; and ‘Honderd Cols Tocht’ covers 4,000km and The ultralight philosophy provides a comforting minimalistic has about 66,000m of climbing through all I was not a newbie in the field of ultralight philosophy in a world that pushes us into the mountainous regions in France: , touring. It was an idea that grew from consumerism. Jura, , , Cévennes, suffering frequent rear wheel spoke Ultralight touring isn’t exactly new. Provence, . It crests all the major cols breakages. That happened on second-hand Decades ago, British tourers favoured from the Tour the France. bikes of questionable quality, but the idea of a saddlebag rather than panniers. In This year I took a closer look at it. I was weight and volume reduction stuck with me. 1986, Richard and Nicholas Crane took going to France anyway to ride Paris-Brest- It became a lifestyle. minimalism even further on their Journey Paris. Why not kill two birds with one stone? I am religiously convinced – which to the Centre of the Earth, a 58-day and

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Above Looking south from the Col du Galibier, a 2,645m pass near Far left Most of Igor’s scant luggage was in a pack under the saddle. There was also a bivvy bag in one bottle cage and a tiny camera bag on the handlebar Left The Col de la Bonette is the highest paved road in Europe

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things can be reduced to just three if you “i completed the don’t intend to camp; all you need is a bike, 100 cols tour in some clothes, and carriers. crocs – 266g for a • The bike. I chose to ride the 8.8kg road bike that I use for my weekend training rides. pair. anything is It has a compact double crankset (50-34), with a lowest gear ratio of 34/27. On some possible” climbs, when my lower back ached, I wished I had lower gearing, but I was too stubborn 5,301km tour from Bangladesh through not to complete the climbs in one go. In the Tibetan Plateau and central China to future I would still use a light bike but would a place near the Kazakhstan border (‘the do exercises to strengthen my core muscles. centre of the Earth’). It’s a trip that still I don’t believe in clipless pedals, inspires and stirs the imagination. particularly for touring. Using ordinary They used steel road bikes, which were shoes has a good side effect: you don’t need very light for the time (10kg including rack), a second set of footwear. The fact that I and their luggage weighed just over 8kg. completed 100 Cols in Crocs (266g for a They made some radical weight saving pair) shows that anything is possible. I had measures. For example, they removed the flat pedals with pins. They were great: good front derailleur and shifter and moved the grip, a wide, comfortable platform, and at chain between front rings manually. Since 260g (with titanium axle) lighter then most then, even though bicycles and equipment clipless pedals. have improved and become lighter, the trend in touring is to carry more and more. • Containers. Panniers are by far the most common bicycle carrier. I don’t use them. If Going ultralight you are serious about weight saving, they are A common mistake that we all make as the first thing to abandon. This time I had so newcomers to ultralight cycling is to start by little luggage that I didn’t need a rack either. cutting the handle off a toothbrush. Forget Most of my stuff was in the compression bag the little things for now: start by thinking behind the seat. This could be expanded to big. There are seven big things, in terms of include food bought at the end of the day or weight or volume, that you should consider shrunk when I wore all my clothes. On my first: bicycle, tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, way home from the airport, I even managed cooking equipment, carriers and – last but to ride with a big bottle of Sheridan’s liqueur definitely not least – clothes. The seven big strapped to it. The bag could be strapped on

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Opposite page, top to bottom Igor’s ultralight kit list Descending out of The headline figure of 3kg includes the bike the clouds on the computer, clothes worn, even bottle cages… Col d’Aubisque in the Pyrenees. The climb to the Col de la Bicycle 8890g • white medical Bonette in the Alps. • bike ~8800g tape 4g The road down from • lock 48g • cloth for cleaning the Col d’Aubisque. The Col du Pas de • computer 40g glasses 2g Peyrol (Massif Central) • wiping cloth 2g This page, top to Carriers 258g • needle with thread 2g bottom One of Igor’s • 2 carbon fibre bottle last climbs in the Alps, the Cormet de cages with bolts 50g Miscellaneous 94g Roselend is 20km • front camera bag on • spare glasses 36g long. The town of the handlebar 40g • cue cards 18g Montbrun • compression bag • notes, pencil 24g behind the seat, • ID, phone card, plus straps 112g credit card 16g • bag for storing bivouac bag 10g Most of the stuff was • water bottle 46g in a sleeping bag’s compression bag and off relatively quickly, even though the weren’t really necessary. I wore them only Wearing 724g strapped behind the items inside were not quickly accessible. on the three nights I slept in the bivvy • cap 32g seat. The camera • glasses 20g and tools were in a The little camera bag on the handlebar bag. They could have been replaced with • cycling gloves 32g small camera bag on contained a camera, tools and skin winter nylon stockings. I didn’t need • jersey 210g the handlebar. Spare ointment. As a 40g container carrying my second, thicker pair of merino socks • cycling shorts 140g tube and lock were 340g of content, it was the realisation either. A better solution for the rain was to • socks 24g tied to the bike’s head • Crocs 266g tube. Rain jacket and of the first axiom of ultralight cycling. It wrap my feet in clingfilm. arm warmers were in was simple to tie it to the handlebar with For the time off-bike, I replaced long Other clothes 650g the bottle cage, in the a nylon strip and once I tied it on, I never trousers with light shorts without pockets. • wind jacket 176g bivvy bag’s bag. • off-bike shorts 184g took it off. During the rain, I’d just slip a I really liked them, even if sometimes I • leg warmers 104g I’m glad I had plastic bag over it. didn’t know what to do with my hands. • arm warmers 62g The cue cards that Then there were two carbon fibre bottle • merino socks 38g I made from the cages. The first was for a one-litre PVC • Other items. I took a bivvy bag for • nylon socks 10g 100 Cols road book • bathing trunks 34g were an excellent water bottle, the second for a bivvy bag’s emergency camping, and even used it • warm gloves 42g navigational tool, not storage bag – which also held my rain three times when I had problems finding least because they jacket, arm warmers and coins. a room, generally at weekends. However, I Night riding 376g encouraged me to • reflective vest 114g contact the locals wouldn’t take it next time. • front light plus and ask them about • Clothes. I had a cycling jersey made For navigation, I didn’t carry maps. I batteries 200g directions. I’d carry a of 50% merino wool. While it is stylishly had six plastic-coated, double-sided cue • rear light plus card or two at a time designed, it was just too hot for me. On cards (size 12×6cm) that I made from the batteries 62g in a jersey pocket and would usually every longer climb and no matter what 31 pages of the 100 Cols road book. They Photography 288g check directions temperature, I was soaked with sweat. were an excellent navigational tool. • camera 228g while riding. I’m Conclusion: wear a light, synthetic jersey • battery charger 60g positive that I couldn’t navigate The 100 Cols Tour that wicks away the sweat. My windproof Tools & spares 234g better or faster with and rain resistant jacket was just right To get to Dijon from my home in • pump 38g any kind of paper or to keep the chill out and wasn’t too hot. Ljubljana, Slovenia, I used a city bus, • patch kit 10g electronic map. Arm warmers were great too, keeping me airport bus, aeroplane, TGV and a bit of • 2 tyre levers 10g • 2 minitools: allen I wish I had relatively warm in the rain. Leg warmers walking. It took my boxed bike and me keys, screwdriver, A substitute for the chain tool, bivvy bag. The bivvy spanners, spoke bag didn’t keep me key 86g warm and I stayed • razor blades 2g relatively dry only • rim-cleaning because I wiped off rubber 14g the condensation • spare tube 54g from the inside of it • duct tape 10g several times during • oil 10g the night. A ‘space foil’ would probably Camping 252g perform just as well, • bivouac bag 252g if not better. For emergency camping Catering 2g I’d take a light • plastic spoon 2g summer sleeping bag. • plastic toothpick 0g Another possibility is just to continue Medical, hygiene & cycling throughout sewing kit 34g the night. So I’d • toothbrush recommend good (handle cut off) 6g lights. Instead of a • two razors reflective vest, I’d (handles cut off) 6g take only reflective • skin ointment 12g belts.

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Before the climb to Pas de Peyrol – the through gorges with Mediterranean scents. “i didn’t approach first really big climb of the tour in the Massif Just a few times the itinerary follows bigger mont ventoux Central – my front light slid from its bracket, national roads, and at those times you learn fell on the road, and cracked open, spilling to appreciate the blessed tranquility of 100 lightly, but once the batteries all over. I could find only three Cols’ little roads. out of four batteries, so I couldn’t check if I didn’t approach the climb of Mont on it I didn’t find the light was still functional. It didn’t matter Ventoux lightly. However, once on its slopes, much for the 100 Cols Tour, but would be I didn’t find it so difficult – or maybe I was it so difficult” essential for the Paris-Brest-Paris. The chef just super motivated. After the first 6km of of the hotel where I stayed that night gave introduction, there is about 18km of more less than eight hours. I was impressed. me the fourth battery to check the light. It or less constant gradient, around 9%. The The next day, however, as I was assembling was working, and moreover, the chef let me kilometres – or rather, hundreds of metres – my bike in a hotel room in Dijon, I tried not keep the battery. I mention this little incident pass agonisingly slowly, so it is better not to to look through the window at the dark, because it was the worst that happened to me look at the distance on the cycle computer rainy morning. But once you dive into it, rain during my five weeks in France. and switch to the clock. Those numbers is not such a disaster. The first few days were The cols in the Pyrenees were a surprise: advance faster! In the meantime, look around rainy, but that couldn’t spoil the great feeling really steep, especially some lesser known you and try to enjoy it. Once you get out of that I had right from the start. ones like Gamia, Burdincurucheta, and the forest it’s much easier: you can see your My strategy was to wait out the heaviest Marie-Blanque. Going down a few of them, target and there’s only 5km to go. downpours under a tree in a forest, and to my rims almost caught fire from braking. I After Ventoux, I had another mountain cycle through drizzle or light rain and let went over the Pyrenees in five high-powered chain to conquer: the French Alps. The 100 the wind dry out what the rain had wetted. days of serious climbing. The second day Cols Tour takes a beautiful route into the It worked well. If I got a midday meal for a (3,359m of climbing) and third day (2,872m) Alps, through two splendid gorges – the reasonable price, the day was made perfect. were packed with legendary Verdon and Cian. The latter is especially If not, a baguette and a wedge of Brie was passes. The tops of the highest passes were spectacular due to the dark red colour of its sufficient. still in the clouds, and it was chilly up there. rocks. After that, the 100 Cols Tour follows The nature of this tour became evident the . That took me very soon. The cue sheets that I made using Into the Alps over the major Tour de France passes in four the road book of the 100 Cols Tour were After leaving the Pyrenees, one would expect majestic days. leading me along secondary roads that I a few sedate days before the big climb to On my first day on the Route des would never have found if I had navigated by Mont Ventoux (which is categorised as the Grandes Alpes, I rode 134km and climbed map. The route weaved among vineyards, toughest climb of the 100 Cols). But even 3,300m. From Beuil, you climb to the Col forests and quiet little villages, away from here, the route was packed with cols. The de la Couillole and then take a breathtaking major roads and traffic. There were many road leads through a variety of landscapes: descent of 18 kilometres and 1,200m down climbs with fantastic long descents. Whoever sometimes it is a narrow forest road, then to Saint-Sauveur-sur-Tinée. Just when you’ve traced this route deserves a medal. it crosses a high grassy plateau, then it goes taken a deep breath in Saint-Sauveur and

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Far left The Verdon Gorge: its turquoise river is named for its vibrant colour Left The road up the Col du Galibier was closed to everyone but cyclists when Igor was there. Some day- riders were carrying more than he was. Below The reward for tough climbs: long, long descents

thanked him that you survived the descent, cyclists until noon that day, and at the top you start your first Alpine climb – the there was free coffee and snacks. After a highest pass in Europe, La Bonette: 2,802m. thrilling descent to , I climbed the If you come early in the day, as I did, you still Col du Télégrafe. Then it was down again to have the time to enjoy the mid-day warmth Saint Michel de , a side climb to on the 23-kilometre descent to Jausiers, Aussois, another climb to Madeleine, and – which will give you some momentum over since I didn’t find a reasonably priced room the next climb to the Col de Vars. in Bonneval – I climbed the Col de l’Isèran in sightseers too. After four days, I had had Day two was 164km, with 3,600m of the cold of approaching evening. I descended enough of cars and motorcycles buzzing climbing. I descended to Guillestre, climbed to Val d’Isère with my feet almost frozen. around me. I was looking forward to to Izoard, and then had a hurricane downhill Day four (139 km, 3,000 m) had an easy peaceful cols and roads through the woods. to Briançon. After a long gradual climb to start: a 1,000 m gradual descent to Bourg The last part of the journey – through the Lautaret, I left the 100 Cols route briefly Saint Maurice. Then I rode up to Cormet Jura and Vosges – provided just that. – it turns right to Galibier – and followed de Roselend, along the lake and down to This is not to say that the last part of the another fantastic downhill through the dark Beaufort, with another three ups and downs trip was easier. There were as many cols as endless gorge to Bourg d’. There I for the Saisies, Aravis and Croix-Fry cols. I ever, some of them quite difficult. The first checked into a hotel, climbed Alpe d’Huez finished this excellent Alpine section with a day of the last stage saw two of such kind: without luggage, and then came back down descent to Thônes. Clergeon and Grand Colombier. I started the its 21 bends – each of which is named after a climb to Grand Colombier just half an hour winner of this TdF stage. Jura and Vosges before a stage of the Tour de l’Ain passed, Day three (175 km, 4,600 m) began with a Riding the grand passes of the Route with the finish at the top. There was a big climb from Bourg d’Oisans back to Lautaret, des Grandes Alpes is satisfying and crowd at the side of the road, cheering me, then on to Galibier. I was fortunate that unforgettable, but I was not alone to and some may have even mistaken me for a the road to Galibier was closed to all but appreciate it. There were motorised leading escapee! I had two punctures that day, and after the descent from the pass I took an hour Do it yourself to fix the flat and patch up the tubes. That slowed me down and night fell before I had The website of the 100 Cols Tour is 100cols.nl – there’s an English Paris the opportunity to find a hotel. I used my language option. From the website Dijon bivvy bag for the second time, this time in a you can buy the ‘100 Cols package’, france particularly scenic place: it’s called Pain de which includes: a description of the route, profiles of the mountains, Sucre and is an open air stalagmite. and index list of all cols and Clermont-Ferrand switzerland The following days passed in a tranquil côtes, recommendations for luggage, atmosphere and in routine but enjoyable alternative routes in case a col is Bordeaux closed due to weather, and more. Lyon cycling up and down cols and côtes, Getting there: Dijon is 90 mins from peppered with longer, more challenging Paris by TGV. A return train ticket climbs (like Grand Ballon) here and there. from London St Pancras to Dijon costs from £89. See raileurope.co.uk. Toulouse On the last day to Saverne, I tried to delay the Dijon has a small airport but you Monaco finish. I was a bit sad that this beautiful trip can’t fly direct from the UK. Fly to was coming to an end. Paris, then take the TGV. Travelling light: visit Igor’s blog: http:// andorra The sadness didn’t last too long, however. ultralightcycling.blogspot.com/ Three days later I was at the start of another epic ride: Paris-Brest-Paris.

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