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Dress Choices of South Asian Women in North-Central West Virginia

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Dress Choices of South Asian Women in North-Central West Virginia ATTIRED AT HOME, DISGUISED IN THE WORLD: DRESS CHOICES OF SOUTH ASIAN WOMEN IN NORTH-CENTRAL WEST VIRGINIA A Thesis Presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School of Cornell University In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts by Mario Joseph Roman May 2010 © 2010 Mario Joseph Roman ABSTRACT This study seeks to locate the identity negotiations of a group of South Asian women living in the United States within the daily choices of their dress. The population consists of ten women, eight Indian and two Pakistani, ages 43 – 65, who live in the North-Central region of West Virginia. These subjects are part of the post-1965 wave of South Asians immigrants to the United States; all of whom came between 1974 and 1992. The wave of South Asians who migrated to the U.S. after the Johnson Administration relaxed the immigration and naturalization policies has received scholarly scrutiny from the social sciences as to how this “model minority” has assimilated into the fabric of America. The extensive body of literature on the South Asian diaspora focuses on the individual and communal negotiations of the immigrants’ identities. The research questions which frame this study are: How have these Indian and Pakistani women of this post-1965 generation of immigrants adapted their dress to America and West Virginia? Who are these women when they make dress choices? This research was inspired by fictional immigrant characters of diasporic literature who aspire to “fit in” to new settings where the climate and culture are new but who are mostly suck in traditional behavior and dress. Semi-structured interviews were conducted in individual and group settings to uncover how these women’s relationships to their clothing inform their adaptive relationship with American culture and their own self-identification. The concepts of spatial-dress divisions, emplacement, cross-dressing performance and appearance management were used to analyze the interviews in three collective case studies. Spatial-dress divisions reach as far back as the Vijayanagara Empire in the subcontinent and these public/private divisions of dress carry through to modern day South Asia. The spatial-dress choices of the ten participants were examined in the diasporic context to uncover how they have altered to include a tertiary space defined in this study as the “semi-private” space. This third space is a community specific space where a collective South Asian identity is performed through nostalgic modesty and dress. Sensory culture theory includes a wide variety of concepts to interpret people and spaces from a sensed perspective. From this body of theory, emplacement was chosen to understand the subjects’ dress choices beyond an embodied perspective and in a mind-body- environment perspective. The subjects of this study maintain Western and South Asian wardrobes and fluidly move between them based on environmental and occasional contexts. Marjorie Garber’s work on cross- dressing performance and Susan Kaiser’s social-psychological work on appearance management are brought together in the third case study to explore how identity is negotiated by divisions and combinations of South Asian and Western. The one constant which exists with all the subjects is their sense of modesty learned from their upbringings in India and Pakistan. The result is a cross-dressed experience where Western dress and South Asian modesty blend into a diasporic language of dressing. This research concluded that the participants in this study renegotiated their dress choices through the processes of cross-dressing and appearance management in order to redefine traditional spatial-dress divisions in the American context. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH Mario J. Roman is a native of Fairmont, West Virginia and an alumnus of Cornell University. He completed his Bachelors of Science in 2000 from the then Department of Textiles and Apparel. After Cornell, Mario moved to Brooklyn, New York and worked in the fashion industry in fabric research and development focusing on print and pattern design. He worked for Phoenix Hand Embroidery, Ann Taylor LOFT and Dana Buchman over the course of seven years. As a graduate student, Mario sought engagement in academia beyond his departmental walls. A voting member of the Graduate & Professional Student Assembly (GPSA), Mario represented his field and Cornell Masters students as Masters-At-Large. He served on the GPSA subcommittee, Student Advocacy, advocating for better mental health care for the graduate and professional student population. A member of the Embodied Modernities reading group, he and six other students from Comparative Literature and History of Art received a grant from the Institute of Comparative Modernities to explore issues of race, identity and representation through material and sensory readings. Mario plans to pursue doctoral studies in the future exploring the Indian fashion industry, the burgeoning men’s luxury market in South Asia, and its visual representation in national and global media. iii This thesis is dedicated to the memory of my great-grandmother, Victoria Oliverio, whose crocheting hands and hydrangea roots left Calabria for the mountains of West Virginia to inhabit our state motto, Montani Semper Liberi, Mountaineers Are Always Free. iv ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Completing a Masters Thesis is a collective endeavor. I would like to express my heartfelt gratitude to those who have made this valuable experience my last in Ezra’s halls of ivy: My adviser, Professor Charlotte Jirousek, for your inspiring guidance, constructive criticism and perpetually open door. Most importantly, thank you for your amaranthine commitment to providing quality education. My secondary chair, Professor Shelley Feldman, for challenging me with critical questions and fresh ideas throughout this project. Thank you for your commitment and time to my research. Professor Durba Ghosh for her guidance and genuine interest during my first year of graduate study. Thank you for your wealth of knowledge. The ICM Embodied Modernities Reading Group – Amanda Gilvin, Bernida Webb-Binder, Brinda Kumar, Khalid Hadeed, Kavita Singh and Meredith Ramirez-Talusan – for allowing an unlikely masters student to grow theoretically in the midst of perspicacious doctoral students. Our spirited support of a collective endeavor and our individual pursuits were a rare experience in an otherwise ego-centric graduate community. Elizabeth Davis for her wisdom, friendship and encouragement. My undergraduate students in the Department of Fiber Science & Apparel Design who I will let name themselves as they are too many to list here. Your creativity, late night discussions about fashion and endless comedy reminded me daily why I returned to academia: to work with the future of fashion. Karen Steffy for her administrative help and support. v Lee Houck and Manuel Muñoz for providing discussions on the process of writing from the perspectives of seasoned fiction writers, and for cheering from afar. Wendi Huestis and Cheryl Stanley who are more like siblings to me than friends. Thank you for being by my side then, now and in the future. My graduate student friends Daniel Coslett, Amanda Gilvin, Sharon Kim, Brinda Kumar and Kevin Roth: I am forever indebted to each of you for your unwavering friendships. My sister and brother-in-law, Domenica and Jim Mastroianni, who have shown me that loving a brother is more than just a couch to crash on and paying for numerous dinners when returning to the city. It is about constant love and support. My parents, Frank and Mary Jo Roman, who have instilled in me the value of education and the importance of never limiting my academic pursuits. For this, I am most thankful. Lastly, the generous funding of this research in part by the College of Human Ecology’s College Grant for Graduate Research. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS Biographical Sketch………………………………………………………………….iii Dedication…………………………………………………………………………….iv Acknowledgements…………………………………………………………………..v Table of Contents………………………………………………………………...…vii List of Figures…………………………………………………………………………x List of Tables…………………………………………………………………………xi Chapter 1: Introduction………………………………………………………………1 Chapter 2: Review of Literature…………………………………………………….6 2.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………….6 2.2 Terminology: Dress Versus Fashion…………………………………..6 2.3 South Asian Women’s Dress and Concepts of Modesty….………...9 2.3.1 Indian and Pakistani Women’s Dress………...……………..9 2.3.2 South Asian Modesty………………...…………………...…17 2.4 Spatial-Dress Divisions: Public, Private and Beyond………………20 2.4.1 Spatial-Dress Divisions: Adopting Muslim Garments in the Vijayanagara Empire………………………………..…..21 2.4.2 Spatial-Dress Divisions: Indian Men Changing Clothes and altering Space………………….……………..……….25 2.4.3 Spatial-Dress Divisions: Indian Women’s Change of Dress and Conflicts with Space……………………………33 2.4.4 Spatial-Dress Divisions: Negotiating ‘Home’ & ‘Ethnicity’.40 2.5 The Emplaced Dress Experience…………………………………….42 2.5.1 Emplaced Dress: Dystoposthesia, The Abnormal Place Experience……………………………………………………44 2.5.2 Emplaced Dress: Senses and Sentiments…………….….47 2.6 Cross-Dressing…………………………………………………………54 2.6.1 Cross-Dressing Successfully, Cross-Dressing to Succeed………………………………………………………55 2.6.2 Cross-Dressing: Tertiary Possibilities……………………..57 2.6.3 Cross-Dressing: Motilal Nehru’s Dress Performance in India…………………………………………………………...59 2.6.4 Cross-Dressing: ‘Diasporic Dress’: Performance Among South Asian Youth.………………………………………….64 2.6.5 Appearance Management…….…………………………….67
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