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Home , Archery, Arrowhead, Bow and arrow, Bracer, Fletching, History of archery

History

The exact origins of cannot be traced, as there are examples of bows and being used throughout the history of many cultures. Primitive prehistoric drawings dating from around 25,000 years ago depict people using bows and arrows, as do elaborate tomb paintings from the ancient Egyptians. In Britain, although archery was used long before this period, the earliest documentation of archery as a sport comes from the rule of James II, when was banned as it interfered with the archery that were used to train archers who were used in national defence. Prior to this point, other sports like football and bowls had been prohibited purely for the purpose of bolstering the ranks of archers in the .

The bow probably originated to be used in , and then developed into a for use in warfare. In classical civilisations, archers formed the dominant body of their armies, with arrows proving particularly successful at attacking the massed formations of . In Western in the , archers were not as dominant and were seen as one of the lower ranks of the army, both due the fact bows and arrows were relatively cheap compared to armour and swords, and the level of training required.

Archery has been particularly prevalent in and the Islamic world, and persists even today in some Asian countries. Moreover, modern and tribesmen of the Central Asian and American Plains have revived and still practice horsed archery in . Indeed, archery is the in the Kingdom of ! The in competition

With the advent of , archery in warfare was made obsolete. However, the consequence was simply archery's evolution into a fully fledged sport. Its status was improved by developments in the equipment used for .

The oldest extant archery is the Ancient Scorton , which was founded in Yorkshire in 1673. In about 1790, the Royal Toxophilite Society was formed with the aim of promoting and advancing the sport in the United Kingdom. The Grand National Archery Society was introduced in 1844, and has governed all major archery competitions in Great Britain since.

Archery as an Olympic sport was first represented in 1900, which is relative to its long history, and both women’s and men’s games were played from this time. It became permanently established as part of the Olympic Games in 1972, and Britain has been -represented, winning 9 medals in the last two Olympic Games alone

The Bow

To optimise its use, the bow should be able to fit properly into your body, hence the number of sizes available on the market. To be able to select the best and most appropriate bow for you, you should be able to understand the different parts of the bow and how they work.

Although bows do vary in size and function, they are all curved when strung and share other similar characteristics. The archer holds onto the central part of the bow, which is called 'the handle'. If this separates from the rest of the bow, it may also be referred to as 'the riser'. The limbs that form the curve are situated above and below the handle.

A is attached at the end of each limb, and this is what brings the bow into its curved shape. are usually made from synthetic fibres, which are then protected by wrappers at the end and in the middle by a wrapper, referred to as 'servings'. This centre serving will usually have a brass ring or thread attached to it, which provides support for 'the nock' of the arrow, hence its name the nock locator. It is located at the precise spot in which the arrow should rest.

On the bow handle, there is a form of cutout, which may also be referred to as 'the window' and is where the arrow rests when the bow is being drawn back. On more advanced, manufactured bows, the cutout may have inserts which hold the arrow in place for you. Other bows have self-adhesive pads, which are used to rest the arrow on the side of the bow, or may simply have coloured pins or elaborate rings with fibre optics as a cutout. Some cutouts may also have a sighting aid, which allows more precision with your shot.

The draw length is the distance the archer pulls back the arrow at full draw, and depends on your body style and technique. It is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the nock on the arrow. The draw weight refers to the amount of pull exerted by a bow when at full draw. As every archer’s draw length differs, this also means that every archer’s draw weight will also differ as well.

There are five main types of bow:

The

The Longbow

Also referred to as the straight bow, this is the tallest type of bow and is typically the same height as or taller than the person using it.

It is usually made from one single stick of material that is relatively narrow. The bow is widest at the handle, straight when not strung and falls into a simple backward curve when strung. The handle usually consists of a wrapped strip of leather, and the arrow rests on either the archer’s or on a notch which has been cut into the bow above the handle. The traditional must be at least 5/8ths of its width; if the measurements were less than this then the longbow would be disqualified from use in most modern competitions.

The longbow originated in Europe and traditionally was used for hunting and warfare, with the English longbow being the most renowned example, associated with in the Middle Ages. Today, are used by archers who want a traditional, wooden feel from their bow.

The shortbow Technically this is not a distinct category of bow, as it is simply a smaller version of the longbow. It is lighter and therefore more manoeuvrable than the longbow, but this also means that it cannot store as much energy and subsequently cannot shoot the arrows at such a long range. Historically, West Coast American tribes used shortbows for hunting.

The

The Compound Bow

This is a relatively modern style of bow, which was designed to decrease the force the archer must provide yet increase the energy stored by the bow. The design uses a series of pulleys and cams to do this, which are positioned at the end of the limbs to optimise the archer’s leverage, yet reduce the holding force when the bow is fully drawn. This means that the bow stores the energy and then “lets off” the pulling weight at the end of draw length.

This is done by rotating the cams at either or both ends of the limbs, and is known as a 'let-off'. As the force which the archer must hold is less, the archer’s muscles are not fatigued as fast. Therefore, they have longer to hold and aim the , making the shot more accurate. The bow can be adjusted so that the let-off occurs at the appropriate length for the archer.

There are a variety of compound bows available which usually fall into one of four categories: - ones with single limbs, split limbs or double limbs, or those with a single cam on the bottom limb which have a rotating round idler on the top. Compound bows are frequently used by archers performing field-style archery, or in bow hunting, and in some non-Olympic .

It has been debated whether beginners should use compound bows. On the one hand, as they are so advanced, it is thought that beginners should have access to this type of equipment straight away. However, the compound bow has to be properly sized and fitted for the particular draw length. New archers may not know enough about archery to be able to discover what the right draw length is for them, so they may actually cause themselves injury if they do not use the bow correctly. To overcome this problem one manufacturer, Mathews, designed a compound bow called the 'Genesis Compound'. This bow does not have to be let-off like other compounds, and so can be used by archers of varying draw lengths.

Recurve bow

The

When strung, the limbs of a recurve bow curve in two directions - backwards near the centre rise, and forwards at the tips. This makes a smoother draw and release than with other straight bows.

Some recurve bows are made using one piece of material, usually laminated or synthetics, and have a very small handle which means that the limbs can be shorter making the bow easier to handle. Another type of recurve bow is available, called 'the '. This is longer than the one-piece bow and separates into a handle and two limbs. These bows are more portable and most bows used in competition are unsurprisingly takedown models. They also have the ability to carry different accessories, which can be added to improve accuracy and stability. Recurve bows have the greatest engineering and manufacturing quality of all bows today.

Crossbow

The

The crossbow is a variation on the typical design for a bow, although the basic concept of firing is the same.

However, cannot fire arrows. Instead, shortened versions are used called 'quarrels' or 'bolts'. The limbs are not held vertically as with other bows but are mounted horizontally, and they are either compound or a recurve in design. As with other bows, the can be pulled back manually or some crossbows are fitted with a windglass which then locks the string into place. The string is held in place (storing energy until it is released) by the mechanism. The amount of energy that is stored is equal to that of the longbow, but the limbs of a crossbow are much shorter meaning that it is easier to manoeuvre and aim. Types of arrows

A typical arrow has a body, referred to as the shaft, with a point or fixed at the front. The arrowhead is what distinguishes arrows, dictating its purpose, and this is either glued onto the outside of the shaft or inserted into the shaft itself.

At the other end of the shaft is the nock and , which consists of three vanes (sometimes more are used) made from feathers or thin, soft plastic. These are equally spaced and glued onto the shaft, with one placed perpendicular to the bow when it is nocked on the sting, and then capped with the notched nock, which is where the bowstring contacts the arrow. Sometimes all the will be attached at a slight angle, which aims to introduce a stabilising spin to the arrow. The shaft can be made from a variety of materials (see below). Arrows vary in length, weight and flexibility, and the type of arrow you use will depend on the type of bow you are using and the archery you are practicing. If using a recurve bow, slender, lightweight arrows which have small vanes are favoured, due to their great range and reduced wind resistance. Hunters tend to use thicker arrows with have larger vanes. You should try and use arrows that are as similar as possible on each day of archery, as this means you will be able to shoot consistent groups and develop an accurate shot.

The spine This refers to the degree of stiffness the arrow has. This will depend on a variety of factors, including the material the arrow is made from, how thick the wall of the shaft is, the diameter and length of the shaft, and how heavy the various arrow parts are, e.g. the nock and point. The spine is given in two sets of digits; the first refers to the shaft diameter in 64ths of an inch, and the second refers to the wall thickness in 1000ths of an inch. You can then use an arrow chart to find which arrow is suitable (see below).

The shaft Over the history of archery many materials have been used to make arrows. Archers experimented with a great variety of products, and dictates which are preferred today. There are four main types of material used to make arrows: -

 Wood - This is the traditional material, with cedar being the main type as it is inexpensive, fairly straight, knot free and has an even grain. However, wood has a tendency to warp and can sometimes break if the arrows are used for striking hard targets, or if the bow weight is great. Wood is more typically used for beginner’s archery.

 Fibreglass - This is used like a substitute for wood as it is cheap, durable and straight. Like wood, fibreglass arrows are used more in archery where a high quantity of equipment is needed rather then good quality stuff, as the accuracy of fibreglass arrows is not particularly good. They also need to be regularly checked for slivers and splitting.

 Aluminium - This material is most commonly used among target archers and bowhunters. These types of arrows come in a wide variety of colours, spines and prices and, if bent, they can be straightened again, which is one of their greatest assists.

 Carbon - These arrows are made from carbon filaments running down the length of the arrow. They are known for their straightness and thin diameter, and are less susceptible to wind resistance, making them able to maintain velocity at long ranges better than other arrows. Like fibreglass arrows, carbon arrows should be checked for loose slivers and splitting regularly.

 Composite arrows - Although these are not made from one single material, they are the latest in cutting edge arrow technology. In these arrows, aluminium and carbon are bonded together in layers, which means that the arrows have the benefit of both of the materials’ qualities. The fletching This steers the arrow in its flight by acting as a rudder and providing wind resistance, which keeps the arrow pointing towards the target. It usually consists of three vanes, two of which will be the same colour with the third being different and referred to as the index vane. This vane is the one that lies at a perpendicular angle to the bow.

The best type of fletching available will keep the arrow at maximum stability whilst also providing minimum drag. Feathers have a high drag on the arrow, thus creating better stability than plastic vanes. They also flatten when touched, which lessens the chances of snagging occurring when the arrow falls to rest or comes into contact with anything. It does not matter in which direction the arrow spins when it comes to accuracy and stability.

The point The point on the arrowhead can be long or short, pointed or rounded depending on the archery being done. They also come in different weights for the same reason. Some are formed by sharpening the end of the shaft but they are more commonly separate from the shaft and made from metal, horn or another hard material. Using an arrow chart

You can either buy ready finished arrows or build them yourself. The easiest option is buying ready-made arrows, and most manufacturers make a wide range of arrows with a selection chart to match your bow and shooting style to the array of arrows they have to offer.

Before you use the chart, you need to measure your arrow length. To do this, stretch your arms out in front of you with your palms resting together. Place a yardstick in between your hands with the end resting on your chest. Get someone to measure where your fingertips fall on the yardstick, and then add 2 more inches to this measurement. This is your arrow or draw length.

The arrow chart consists of a grid with arrow sizes in each of the squares. The columns of either side of the grid refer to the bow length, the draw length and whether you are shooting the bow with your fingers or a mechanical . To use the chart, find out the weight of the bow and locate this in the bow-weight column of the chart. Then find your draw length on the top row of the chart, and find the box where these two meet, which will tell you one or more arrow sizes that are suitable. Clothing

Archery clothing is rather limited, and many amateur archers will not feel the need to wear any protective items.

Generally though, most archers will wear a , or an arm , which protects the inside of the bow arm. A tab is also frequently worn on the fingers and thumb of the drawing hand for protection when drawing the bow. Chest guards are sometimes worn, which are designed to prevent the bowstring from being hindered by the archer’s body or clothing when released, as well as protecting the archer’s chest area.

Archers are taught to hold the bow with little effort, which creates the risk of the bow flying out of their hands when they release the bowstring. Slings have been designed to catch the bow in such circumstances, removing any fears that it might be dropped. Wrist slings can also be found and are used with compound bows and some recurve bows, which can take finger slings.

Technique

The hand in which an archer holds the bow is called the bow hand. This is usually the hand which is opposite to their dominant eye, although some archers will hold it in the dominant hand. The opposite hand is referred to as the drawing or string hand. Terms like string and bow shoulder follow suit with these. Archers who have a right dominant hand, hold the bow in their left hand with their left side facing the target. They use their right eye to see the target, as well as holding the arrow and string in their right hand. Imagine the opposite for left sided individuals.

The archer’s should form a “T”, and the back muscles are used to pull the arrow to what is called anchor point. Some bows are fitted with a clicker, a device which clicks when the archer reaches the correct draw length. After releasing the arrow, the archer should pay attention to the recoil of their body, which is called the follow through. This may indicate any problems with technique or form.

To shoot the arrow, the archer has to adopt the correct stance. They should place the body at a perpendicular angle to the target and shooting line, with the feet apart at shoulder-width distance. As the archer progresses in ability they will adopt an “open stance”, which means that the leg furthest from the shooting line will be half to a whole foot in front of the other one. However, the stance that is adopted will vary according to the style of each individual archer, the bow that they are using and the type of archery they are performing (see below).

Next, the archer has to load the bow. To do this, the bow should be pointed to the ground, and then the shaft of the arrow is placed on the arrow rest in the bow window. The nock at the back of the arrow should then be attached to the bowstring, which is referred to as 'nocking the arrow'. For fletchings that have three vanes, the index vane should be positioned so that it is pointing away from the bow.

The archer should use three fingers to hold the bowstring and arrow, so that the index finger is above the arrow and the next two fingers below. The string is typically placed in the first or second joints of the fingers.

Following this, the archer should raise the bow and draw it back towards the face with the drawing hand until it rests lightly at anchor point, which is the place on the archer’s face where the hand is positioned consistently with the bowstring at full draw. Anchor points differ for each archer depending on their facial contours and the type of shooting being performed. This technique will vary between archers, although it is usually always one fluid motion and will be consistent from shot to shot. The breath should also be controlled throughout this movement so that it is calm, keeping the arms stable. The bow arm is held out towards the target and rotated, keeping the bow vertical. The sight level and bow level must be aligned properly so that maximum accuracy is achieved.

The grip on your bow should be relaxed and never too tight, with the palm only gently resting on the nock. The bow is then released by relaxing the fingers of the drawing hand.

Compound bow technique If using a compound bow, the technique required is slightly different. Often, archers will use a release aid with a compound bow, which is attached to the nocking point and holds the string steadily in place and releases it more accurately. The latter is achieved by a trigger which is either a trigger lever or another type of mechanism. Some of these have a pre-determined trigger so that, when the appropriate and required draw weight is achieved, they will automatically release. If a mechanical release is used, only one finger is needed on the string instead of three.

After learning the correct positions, practise them so that you are well acquainted with how to use them. After you have done this, it is important to develop a mental program which fits all the positions together, so that you learn positive mental habits. These are as important as correcting your positions. Your mental checklist should involve the order in which you perform the positions:

Stance

 Assume the correct/appropriate stance  Nock the arrow

Draw and aim

 Set the bow hold  Set the draw hand hook  Raise bow and draw it (one fluid motion)  Anchor the string in position  Align the sight to the target and level the bow in position  Establish the string pattern and sight picture  Focus on the target, steady the bow and aim

Release and follow through

 Tighten your back muscles  Relax the draw hand to automatically release the bowstring  Make sure you keep your bow arm up and steady in its position

Archery Stances

Types of stance

The type of stance that the archer adopts is vital to their performance. With all stances, the weight should be evenly distributed between the two feet so that you are not leaning more to one side, which will distort your shot.

Even stance This is when the two feet are placed at an equal distance from the line, at shoulder-width distance apart. This is a natural position for most people. However, in this stance, the body is not particularly sturdy so it can be moved in high winds, which will obviously affect the performance of the archer. The back also does not have a great deal of support, and this stance lowers the area for string clearance. This is the stance that most archers will use when they first learn archery and, although it is a comfortable stance, you should try and progress to an open stance, as this will increase your performance.

Open stance This stance is when the dominant foot will be a whole foot in front of the other one, slightly facing the target. It gives the archer more stable support than the even stance, and eliminates the tendency to lean back away from the target. However, in this stance, archers tend to use their arm muscles more than their back muscles to draw the bow, and will often twist their body towards the target. That said, this is one of the better stances, and should be the one that most amateur archers aim to perfect.

Close stance The close stance is when the non-dominant foot is placed a foot in front of the dominant foot, with the archer facing slightly away from the target. This stance provides excellent stable support and provides good alignment of the arm and shoulder in direct line to the target. Again, this stance reduces the room for striking clearance, meaning the string has a tendency to against the body. It also sometimes makes the archer learn away from the target, causing them to overdraw the arrow.

Oblique stance The oblique stance is created by having the dominant foot placed one foot in front of the non- dominant foot, which is then placed at a right angle to the line. This stance provides the largest amount of clearance space for the bowstring when it is released. The target is clearly and easily visible from this stance, and the body is in total equilibrium. However, this is the hardest stance to perfect and is utilised solely by expert archers. Types of anchor point

There are three main types of anchor point, although these will obviously vary slightly in the way they are adopted from archer to archer:

Low anchor point This is when the bowstring is drawn so that the bow hand rests under the . This point prevents overdrawing, and the low placement of the hand on the face facilitates long distance shots, with less movement required. This anchor point is not particular natural or comfortable for archers who have large hands or short necks - it tips the head slightly and takes a little longer time to position than the others. It is the anchor point which most beginners adopt.

Side anchor point Drawing the hand to the side of the face makes the side anchor point. It is a much quicker position to establish than the low anchor point, but it again encourages overdrawing and permits creeping.

High anchor point This point is usually adopted when a release aid is being used on the bow, and is performed by drawing the bowstring slightly above the chin. It allows archers to have partial sight over the arrow shaft and over the point, if an additional bowsight is not being used. However, it does not allow full bowsight, meaning an additional bowsight is nearly always required. How to improve your archery technique

The key to improving your technique is to develop a consistent form. The elite in archery all have the ability to duplicate the same technique and form which they have adopted shot after shot. However, the way in which you achieve this is individual to each person. The more you practice the more you will develop the style which is suitable for you. To help you improve and learn which style you are suited to, it is often advisable to employ the help of a coach. When you first start out at archery, many clubs will offer you the opportunity to undergo a beginners course, which usually lasts for around 4-6 weeks. These courses will teach you the basics of archery, and help you begin developing your own individual technique. It will also give you a taster of the different types of archery, and let you decide which one you would like to become skilled at.

Working with a coach means that you take the step from being a recreational archer, to becoming a competitive archer. Although what you are doing may feel right from your own perspective, you are not in the best position to be able to really see what is going on. Therefore, it is almost essential that you work with a coach at some point. Make sure that the coach has undertaken a training course that has been accredited by the GNAS. The GNAS website provides details of which counties/areas have accredited coaches, and they give a contact for each area for extra information.

How to get started in archery

If you want to take up archery, your first port of call should be the Grand Archery Society (GNAS). This society is the governing body for all archery in Great Britain and Northern Ireland, and has nine regional societies across this area. It currently has over 30,000 members, is affiliated with the FITA and is a member of the British Olympic Association. The website provides you with information about upcoming events, as well as contact details to write to the society to find out extra.

There is a separate Scottish Archery Association (SAA) which is affiliated to the GNAS but specialises in the clubs found in Scotland. The website provides excellent advice on how to get started, ranging from how to find your local to enrolling on a beginners course.

Northern Ireland also has its own separate society entitled the Northern Ireland Archery Society, which, like the Scottish one, will provide you with more precise information for getting into archery in the area.

The Junior Archery Association obviously deals with all junior games, as well as helping to promote archery in schools around the country. Their website provides all information needed for youths to get involved with the game.

If you want to find the nearest club to you, look at the UK Archery Club Web Page Locator. This site allows you to search by county or area to find the names and details of all clubs in this area. There are hundreds to choose from across the UK, and all of these will welcome beginners and be able to provide advice and/or coaching. Resources

For information on all the latest and past results of competitions and tournaments held in the UK see the GNAS website.

The FITA website contains up-to-date information about world players, and world competitions, as well as having information, results and statistics from past events.

If you wish to find out about more specific types of archery and their respective competitions, look at the British Longbow Society BLBS website. This contains information about how to join the society, what longbow competitions takes place in the UK today, as well as providing links to other useful longbow websites. The English website provides similar information about field archery in England. It also has a club directory, so you can find out the location of your nearest club. Eye Dominance

Before learning how to shoot a bow it is important to decide which hand will hold the bow and which will pull the bowstring. As there are right-handed and left-handed people, so there are right-handed and left- handed bows. But what decides if you are a right-handed or left-handed archer?

Well the initial answer is your eye dominance. A person who is right eye dominant should hold the bow in their left hand and pull the bowstring with their right hand. The opposite applies for a person who is left eye dominant. The reason behind this is to align the dominant eye over the arrow for aiming. It can become difficult when a person is right-handed, but with a left eye dominance or vice versa. What hand to use then ? I would have that person use a right-handed bow, based on their right hand shoulder being naturally stronger than their left. The only problem then is to control the aiming with the right eye, rather than the left. The person will probably have to keep their left eye shut, until learning to use their right eye for aiming.

How to your eye dominance.

As shown in the picture, hold your hands out at arms length and with both eyes open, look through the hole formed by your hands at a distant object. Keeping that object in view, slowly move your hands towards your face until they touch your face. The hole formed by your hands should be over one of your eyes. This eye is your dominant eye and will control your aiming. Another quick way to test your eye dominance is to point your index finger at a distant object with both eyes open, then close one eye and see if your finger appears to move away from what you are pointing at. If your finger does appear to move, then the eye that you closed is your dominant eye. Try again with your other eye and your finger should not appear to move. In some cases, a person may be right-handed, but left-eye dominant or vice versa. In these cases, the Coach will assess that persons co-ordination and strength to decide whether they should shoot right-handed or left-handed.

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The 10 Steps

(Under Review. The Steps will be revised soon to comply with 's Level 1 Coaching Manual ). (The new methods have already been incorporated into our current Beginners Courses).

The 10 basic steps to shoot a bow are:

1. Stance 2. Nocking the Arrow 3. Drawing Hand and Bow Hand 4. Bow Arm and PreDraw 5. Drawing the Bow 6. The Anchor 7. Holding and Aiming 8. The Release 9. Follow Through 10. Relaxing 1. Stance

The archer stands upright in a comfortable, relaxed position with one foot each side of the shooting line. The feet should be about shoulder width apart with an even amount of weight taken on each foot and an even amount of weight between the ball and heel of each foot. This will maintain balance and help keep the body steady. During the shooting sequence, the body position must remain as steady as possible with no shifting of weight or leaning of the body. If there is a problem with bowstring clearance to the arm, then a open stance may be required. Once the stance position has been established, then it must be consistent from shot to shot. Using foot markers can help maintain a consistent stance.

Back to The 10 Steps 2. Nocking the Arrow

Nock the arrow by placing the nock of the arrow onto the bowstring under the nocking point locator. Make sure that the Index Fletch on the arrow is facing towards you and the nock is pushed firmly onto the bowstring. The arrow shaft is placed onto the arrow rest.

Back to The 10 Steps

3. Drawing Hand and Bow Hand

For Target Archery style the index, second and third fingers are used. The index finger is placed above the arrow nock and the second and third fingers are placed below the arrow nock. Curl the fingers around the bowstring so that the first joint of all three fingers are aligned on the bowstring. Keep a space clear between the index and second fingers and the arrow nock, so the fingers do not touch the nock. (This will prevent 'pinching' of the arrow.) Keep the back of the hand as flat as possible. (Relaxed.) The thumb is tucked into the palm so it can be placed against the neck at full draw. Place a slight pull on the bowstring to set the fingers in position ready for the draw. During the draw and anchor maintain an even amount of pressure on all three fingers.

Place the bow hand into the grip of the bow with the centreline of the vee between thumb and index finger in line with the centre of the bow as shown in the top view. The base of the thumb muscle should rest on the centreline of the grip. During the draw, the pressure should be taken on the thumb muscle and directly into the wrist. (Low wrist position.) The thumb and fingers should remain relaxed. If a finger or bow sling is not used, then the tips of the fingers are curled around until lightly touching the bow. This will stop the bow falling out of the hand on release. A consistent hand position on the bow grip is necessary. Back to The 10 Steps

4. Bow Arm and PreDraw

Push out with the bow arm to set the hand position into the bow grip, then raise the bow arm and drawing arm together, up to the position shown in the picture on the left. Keep the front shoulder in its normal low position. (The shoulder must not be allowed to rotate up or back as this shortens the draw length.) Keep the elbow of the drawing arm high, as this will help bring into action the back muscles needed to draw the bow to full draw.

Back to The 10 Steps 5. Drawing the Bow

From the Pre-Draw position, use the back muscles to pull the elbow of the drawing arm backwards in one smooth motion until the drawing hand is placed against the jaw. The position of the head and body should not move. (Pull the bowstring to the face, not move the face to meet the bowstring.) An equal amount of push on the bow hand and pull on the drawing hand will keep the body balanced.

Back to The 10 Steps 6. The Anchor

The Anchor is where the hand is positioned on the jaw and the bowstring touches the face. It is vitally important that the index finger is firmly placed against the jaw, the thumb is tucked into the palm of the hand so it can be placed firmly against the neck and the bowstring is firmly touching the chin (and nose, if possible.) The relationship between all these positions is important as it acts as the rear sight, so it is vital that it be as consistent as possible. It also acts as a consistent draw length position. Any variation in the position will effect the amount of force the bow will impart to the arrow.

Back to The 10 Steps 7. Holding and Aiming

Holding is where the tension is maintained in the back muscles and then the bow arm is moved to align the sight pin into the centre of the target. As the sight pin is moved into the centre of the target, the string alignment should be checked. String alignment, as shown in the picture on the left, is the alignment of the bowstring with the vertical alignment of the bow and the alignment with the sight pin. (As the bowstring is just in front of the eye, it will appear blurred.) When the bow is held in the correct vertical position, then the bowstring and edge of the bow will be parallel. If it is not, then the bow is tilted away from vertical. Just before full concentration is made on aiming, all the previous steps should be checked to make sure that everything is in the correct position. If any part of body feels out of place, then it is best to stop now, let the bowstring down and re-start again, rather than make a bad shot. When aiming into the centre of the target, it is natural for sight pin to move around, as the muscles try to hold it steady. With practise, aiming will become more steady. Move the sight pin up if the arrow lands high, move down if the arrow lands low, move left if the arrow lands left and move right if the arrow lands right.

Back to The 10 Steps 8. The Release

The Release of the bowstring is the most critical step in the sequence. If it is not done correctly, then all the effort in the previous steps is cancelled out. To release the arrow correctly, the fingers holding the bowstring must allow the string to slip off the fingers. All three fingers must release at the same time. This will let the bowstring pull away from the fingers with the least amount of deflection. When the release is done correctly, the hand should move backwards, as the back muscles will pull the arm backwards and the fingers should come to rest beside the neck. If the finger muscles are flexed open to release the bowstring, then the hand will usually come to rest about 5cm backwards from anchor position. Flexing the finger muscles will deflect the bowstring sideways and the arrows will have a horizontal spread across the target.

Back to The 10 Steps 9. Follow Through

The Follow Through is maintaining the position of the bow arm on release until the arrow hits the target. As the arrow slides along the arrow rest any movement of the bow will move the arrow. The position of the head and body should remain steady, while the drawing hand moves backwards after the release. It is important to not let the bow arm fall after the release, as this can become a problem when the bow arm actually starts to fall on the release, making some arrows land low on the target. Also moving the head to see where the arrow went too soon after the release can make the bow arm move sideways.

Back to The 10 Steps

10. Relaxing The archer must relax after each shot to allow the muscles to While the body is recover from their effort. relaxing, it is also About 20 to 30 seconds should be enough time for the muscles to time for the mind recharge, ready for the next shot. to consider the If not enough time is allowed between shots, then the muscles will previous shot and tire rapidly and may even become sore. Tired muscles will not be its result, and able to perform consistently. check where possible improvements can be made. The mind has control of all the muscles required to shoot the arrow correctly, so the '10 steps' act as a mental checklist to be ticked off for each step. If one step in the sequence fails the mental check, then the sequence must be restarted. This is the method required in shooting practise to improve performance.

As with all new skills, it is best to learn correctly under the guidance of a qualified Archery Coach. The coach can help you learn the correct body positions and actions required, and provide advice when modifications are required to suit the individual. As every person is not exactly the same in body shape, the body positions as shown above, may have to be modified to suit. This is where the Coach is best able to help the individual.

Basic Bow Types

The Basic Longbow The Longbow is the most basic of bows. The English Longbow is pictured at left. The shape is unchanged from its invention approx. 9,000 - 6,000 B.C. It is shaped from one piece of timber and the grip is usually made with a strip of leather bound around the bow. A small shelf is cut into the side of the bow for the arrow to rest on. There is no bow sight attached. Shooting is done by aiming with the tip of the arrow at full draw. The point of aim will vary with the distance away from the target.

The Basic Recurve Bow Recurve bows range in length from 1220mm (48 inches) to 1780mm (70 inches). Most target bows will average about 1675mm (66 inches) in length. As a rough guide to choose the length of a bow to suit you, a person with a draw length of less than 710mm (28 inches) could use a bow between 1575mm-1675mm (62 - 66 inches) and a person with a draw length of more than 710mm (28 inches) could use a bow between 1575mm-1780mm (66- 70 inches). The draw weight of the bow is usually written on the back of the lower limb. The weight is noted in pounds (lbs) at a draw length of 710mm (28 inches), e.g. #20 @ 28 which means at a full draw of 28 inches the force required to hold the bowstring at this length will be 20 pounds (approx. 9 kilograms). Bows for beginners should have a draw weight between 15-20 lbs. for the kids and between 20-25 lbs. for the adults. Most basic recurve bows are made from laminated timber usually with a clear finish on the riser and the limbs having a layer of fibreglass applied each side for strength. The types of timber used in the riser can vary, giving a multi-coloured appearance. The bow shown in the picture on the left is a one-piece bow. There is another type called a "Take- Down Recurve" which has a pocket at the top and bottom of the riser for the limbs to bolt into. This type of bow can be dismantled for ease of transport. The limbs, being seperate, can be replaced by limbs that may be slightly stronger or lighter. Back to Top

The Basic Compound Bow

Compound bows can vary in length from 840mm to 1220mm (33 to 48 inches) measured from axle to axle. (Hunting model pictured at left.) The smaller lengths are for juniors and the larger lengths are for adults. The riser is usually made from aluminium alloy for strength. The limbs are fitted with an eccentric wheel. (The axle is off-set from the centre of the wheel.) The bowstring is attached to 'tear- drops' at the ends of the plastic-coated steel cables, with the cables fitted from top to bottom . The cable guard holds the cables off to one side for the arrow and fletch clearance. The draw weight of a compound bow is usually adjustable within a 7 kilogram (15 lbs.) range by turning the adjustment bolts in the limbs. The compound bow has a peak draw weight and a let-off percentage. For example, the peak draw weight for a particular bow could be 14kgs. (30lbs) with a let-off of 50%. This means that the maximum draw weight of 14kgs. will occur at approx. 3/4 of the draw length and as the eccentric wheels roll over, the lever effect will give a 50% less weight at full draw. So at full draw, the archer will be holding a draw weight of only 7 kg's. (15lbs.) This type of bow is becoming more

popular, as the archer is able to use a stronger bow with less effort. Basic Arrows

Nocks Fletches Points Arm Guards Finger Tabs

Quivers Chest Guard Release Aids Bow Sling Foot Markers

Arrows can be made from wood, fibreglass, aluminium and carbon graphite. Aluminium arrows are made from extruded tubing to exact diameter and thickness. Each arrow is marked with a number e.g. 2013 which means the arrow is 20/64th inch (7.94mm) diameter and 13/1000th inch (0.33mm) thick wall. The arrows are made 760mm long (30 inches) and have to be cut with a cutting tool to the draw length to suit each person. The arrow maker 'Easton' produces a chart which matches the size of the arrow to the draw length and draw weight of the bow. The arrow will bend a certain amount as it is fired and this amount of bend is critical for correct flight and clearance from the bow. It is very important that the arrows are 'matched' to the archer and their bow.

Back to Top Nocks Nocks are made from rigid plastic and are glued to the rear of the arrow. The top row shown in the picture are used for aluminium arrows. Nocks come in 6 different sizes to suit the range of diameters of arrows. The nocks are shaped so that they will clip onto the bowstring and hold the arrow in place. The other nocks shown are specifically

for 'Beman' carbon arrows and 'Easton A/C/E' carbon/aluminium arrows.

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Fletches Fletches are made from soft plastic in various shapes and sizes as shown. Feather fletches can be used, but are not as durable as the plastic fletches. Usually three fletches are glued to the arrow shaft near the rear of the arrow. They are usually angled to make the arrow spin as it fly's, to give a more stable, straighter flight. The orientation of the fletches in relation to the nock must suit the type of arrow rest used. The bottom two diagrams show the rear view of the arrow. The view on the left shows the fletch positions for a 'shoot-around' arrow rest used on recurve bows and on compound bows that are shot using fingers.

The view on the right shows the fletch positions for a 'launcher' arrow rest used on compound bows that are shot using a 'release aid'. Back to Top

Arrow Points The types of arrow points used for target archery are shown. The top three are used for aluminium arrows. The 7% Bullet Point will give the arrow approx. 7% front of centre balance and the 9% Bullet Point will give 9% f.o.c. balance. The other point assembly's are for carbon arrows. The points and inserts come in various weights, so the amount f.o.c. balance

can be very accurately controlled. The reason why this is important is that any small variation in weight, can dramatically effect the amount of bend in the arrow as it is released and the overall arrow speed.

Back to Top Basic Archery Accessories

Arm Guards Arm Guards are reinforced leather or plastic protective guards that are worn on the inside of the bow arm. They are worn to protect the arm from the bowstring as it moves forward after the release.

Back to Top Finger Tabs Finger Tabs are used to protect the fingers as they release the bowstring and also provide a smooth surface for the bowstring to slide on. Most finger tabs are made from leather with some having multiple layers of material for extra protection. Other types of finger tabs can have attachments as shown in the picture, to help keep the fingers apart and anchor under the jaw.

The size of should not be any longer than the finger tips.

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Quivers A 'Ground ' made from steel rod is spiked into the ground to hold the bow and arrows. A 'Belt Quiver' and 'Holster Belt Quiver' hold the arrows and, if fitted with a pocket, can hold spare nocks, fletches, tube of glue, etc.

Back to Top Chest Guard A Chest Guard is used to prevent injury to the breast of women archers. The prolonged repetition of pressure from the bowstring can lead to the formation of a lump within the fatty tissue, which is clinically difficult to tell apart from cancer tissue without a biopsy. They are also used for the purpose of keeping loose clothing from interfering with the bowstring, especially if wearing clothing for colder or wet weather. The chest guard is made from a nylon or plastic open mesh material held

around the chest with an elastic strap.

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Release Aids Release Aids are mechanical hand held triggers used instead of a finger tab. They can only be used with a compound bow in accordance with the archery shooting rules. They use 'jaws' or a loop of string to hold the bowstring and release the bowstring by depressing the trigger. There are many different types of release aids. The basic types as shown in the picture are:- The 'chonco' type which is held in the hand and triggered with the index

finger. The 'Finger' type which is held in the fingers and triggered with the thumb or little finger. The 'Wrist' type which wraps around the wrist and triggered with the index finger.

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Bow Sling, Finger Sling and Wrist Strap A 'Bow Sling' is an adjustable leather strap attached to the bow. The sling should fit loosely over the hand. The purpose of the bow sling is to allow the archer to relax the fingers of the bow hand and not have to hold the bow to stop it falling out of the hand on release. The 'Wrist Strap' does the same job, but is attached to the wrist and a loop is placed around the bow and clipped

to the loop around the wrist. The 'Finger Sling' can be a strap of leather or a length of string with a loop at each end. It is attached between the index finger and thumb with the bow loosely held in the hand.

Back to Top Foot Markers Foot Markers are placed in the ground to mark the position of the front of each foot on the shooting line. They help the archer maintain a consistent stance position. Golf tees can be used as good foot markers.