The pretty torrenticola frog, called such for its “painted” toenails, was first spotted by scientists close to Papallacta. Contents

This brochure offers a panoramic view of the biological and cultural diversity of Coca National Park (CCNP), as well as practical information for the visitor: a geographic and a tourist map, must-see sites, outstanding tourist activities, some useful recommendations for your trip, and a directory of services.

2 Map of ’s Natural Heritage Sites (PANE)

4 Cayambe Coca National Park A network of rivers uniting the jungle and the snow

8 Geographic map of the Park

10 Faces and traces Kayambis and Cofanes: “people of the sun” and the “true people”

14 Tourist map

16 Not to be missed

20 Things to do

24 Getting there

26 Directory

28 List of outstanding wildlife species

b GALÁPAGOS

1 GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARK 2 GALÁPAGOS MARINE RESERVE 16 PACIFIC COAST 2 18 17 Colombia 3 GALERA SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVE Esmeraldas 4 1 5 MANGLARES CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 26 Pto. Baquerizo 3 6 MACHE CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Moreno 20 25 Tulcán 7 SANTA CLARA ISLAND WILDLIFE REFUGE 8 8 MUISNE RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 6 9 EL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE Ibarra 44 10 SANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA WILDLIFE REFUGE 27 Nueva Loja 11 EL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 0o 12 PACOCHE WILDLIFE REFUGE 13 PARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 39 40 14 ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 15 ISLAS CORAZÓN Y FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGE 28 Sto. Domingo 41 16 CAYAPAS MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 45 N Francisco 17 ESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 15 24 30 de Orellana WE 31 29 18 LA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGE

19 ISLA SANTAY AND ISLA DEL GALLO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA S 20 PAMBILAR WILDLIFE RESERVE 21 LOS SAMANES NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Latacunga Tena 12 Portoviejo 22 PLAYAS DE VILLAMIL NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 37 42 23 EL PELADO MARINE RESERVE Ambato COAST - 4 32 Puyo 24 LOS ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 25 CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Guaranda Riobamba ANDES 38 23 Babahoyo 26 EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 21 27 PULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVE 10 13 28 PASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVE 19 9 29 ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Santa Elena Guayaquil 30 EL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 11 5 Perú 31 NATIONAL PARK Macas 32 FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE 22 33 CAJAS NATIONAL PARK 34 YACURI NATIONAL PARK 33 Azogues 35 QUIMSACOCHA NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Pacific Ocean 35 ANDES - AMAZON 7 Cuenca Machala 36 47 37 LLANGANATES NATIONAL PARK 46 38 NATIONAL PARK 14 39 CAYAMBE COCA NATIONAL PARK MAP of 43 AMAZON NATURAL HERITAGE SITES 40 CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE Zamora 41 LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE Loja Patrimonio de Áreas Naturales del Estado, PANE 42 YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK 36 43 EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGE 44 COFÁN BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 45 NAPO- NATIONAL PARK 34 48 46 EL CÓNDOR BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 100 km 47 EL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 48 CERRO PLATEADO BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 3 Cayambe (5,790 masl) seen from the Cayambe Coca slopes of Saraúrco (4,725 masl). National Park

A network of rivers uniting the jungle and the snow

Starting in the glaciers, páramos (high plains) and Andean forests slide down the eastern slopes of the mountain range and meet up with the Amazon. Cayambe Coca has some of the most diverse landscapes of all the protected areas in Ecuador and in the world.

he Andean mountain range in Ecuador creates a mosaic of landscapes with sur- T prising biological and cultural diversity. One example of this diversity is Cayambe Coca National Park (CCNP): a snowy on the to the south and east of the Park, hot baths , mega-diverse páramos only an hour in Papallacta, boating in Baeza and El Chaco, from Quito, cloud forests, and tropical jungles. and the awe-inspiring sight of San Rafael Falls. Biodiversity and endemic species in CCNP* Even its name points to the Park’s diversity: Below, in the mystical jungle atmosphere, sits CCNP % Ecuador / % of Cayambe is its highest mountain and Coca is one the Cofán village Sinangüé above the Aguarico no. of species endemism no. of species national total Cayambe, with an altitude of of the large rivers that flows toward the Amazon. River, a gate to the Amazon. Flora 2,500 n/d 15,306 16.3 5,790 masl, is the third highest The highland slopes of the Park’s land area This area has only been a national park Mammals mountain in Ecuador. It’s the are home to the Kayambi culture, an indig- since 2010, as Cayambe Coca was an eco- 200 2.9 - 4.3 380 52.0 Birds 900 2.9 - 8.1 1,616 55.6 only point on land at which enous people of great historical and political logical reserve up until then. The topography Reptiles 140 n/d 350 40.0 significance. Farther east is Oyacachi, a village in the higher altitudes is very rough, domi- the equator passes through Amphibians 116 4.7 - 44.6 464 23.7 in the páramos without automobile access until nated by Cayambe (5,790 masl) and other a glacier or, in other words, * These figures are, of necessity, estimates and subject to change. where the latitude and the recently, but once a hub on the traditional trade mountains such as Saraúrco (4,725 masl) • Between the altitudes with the lowest and highest concentrations of endemic routes between the Andes and the Amazon; and Puntas (4,452 masl). Toward the east, species. Source: MAE, 2010. temperature are both zero.

4 5 The Aguarico River, one of the largest waterways of the Ecuadorean the topography is less rugged, although it CAYAMBE COCA IN BRIEF Amazon, has its source in CCNP. includes El (3,482 masl), an iso- Location: El Chaco county (), Gonzalo lated volcano that erupts almost continuously. Pizarro county (Sucumbíos), Cayambe county More than eighty lagoons sprinkle the (), and Pimampiro county (Imbabura) páramos among the mountains, most of Area: 403,103 hectares them in the Ñucanchi Turupamba area, near Altitude range: 600 to 5,790 masl Papallacta. There and in Oyacachi, the hot Climate: 5 to 25 °C baths testify to the region’s volcanic soul. Nearby settlements: Baeza, El Chaco, The area’s biodiversity is not only immense Papallacta (Napo), Lumbaqui (Sucumbíos), (900 species of birds!) but also unique: Cayambe, El Quinche, Olmedo (Pichincha), 100 endemic plant species and various frogs Ibarra, Mariano Acosta (Imbabura) of the genera Eleutherodactylus and Hyloxalus Established in: 1970 (changed to national abound in the Park and its surrounding regions. park status in 2010) In terms of variety of ecosystems –several types of páramos, Andean forests, and high and to Oyacachi. From the south, there are Amazon jungles– perhaps only Sangay various points of access from the Interoceanic National Park, farther south, can compete. Highway between Quito and the Amazon, such The area can be accessed from two points: as La Virgen, Papallacta, Baeza, or El Chaco. in the Andes, the Pan-American Highway This enormous territory offers innumerable stretches from the city of Cayambe to the vol- experiences for those who choose to visit. cano of the same name, to San Marcos Lagoon,

The Ecosystems of Cayambe Glaciers on the volcano of Cayambe are the only ones that sit atop the Coca National Park equator. Here, both the latitude and Grassy páramo: the most common páramo, the temperature are zero. dominated by course grass but spotted with shrubs and soft grasses, located on the west side (ex. outskirts of Cayambe); marshy páramo: in the eastern foothills, swampy areas with species such as Neurolepis and Cortaderia (ex. Oyacachi); high-mountain evergreen forest: also known as low pára- Cayambe Coca forms part of mo, dominated by shrubs and small trees; a dense network of protected high-mountain humid thicket: lower re- areas in the southern Andes: gion of the marshy páramo, with more shrub it’s surrounded by Antisana, species (ex. remnants in Papallacta); cloud Cofán Bermejo, El Ángel, forest: many twisting trees and frequent and Cotacachi Cayapas. In fog (ex. Polyepis forests along the ascent to addition, along with the areas Papallacta); low-mountain evergreen forest: of Cotopaxi, Llanganates, taller trees with larger leaves; mountain- Sumaco Napo-Galeras, base evergreen forest: region above the Amazon forests with very tall trees (up to 40 Antisana, and Pasochoa, meters) and many palms (ex. Sinangüé). it is part of the Condor Bio-Reserve.

7 Cotacachi Atuntaqui 4, 944 PROVINCE B Cotacachi la N to Ibarra n OF IMBABURA c to Pimampiro o Imbabura O E 4, 610 m Shanshipamba í Tangal La Rinconada S Otavalo Cofanes L. San Pablo Olmedo (Pesillo) L. Puruhanta

Cusín 3,990 m Puerto Libre C a bi access b u L. e C to Reserve n PROVINCE Cabeno o a A b OF SUCUMBÍOS gu im ar h ic Fuya Fuya C o a Sinangüé 4, 290m L

G Cayambe ino u Tabacundo Azuela Lumbaqui iv a D y

l l e D a u ué b q Cayambe Pis a 5, 790 m m de b an a r to Lago Agrio S G o a e hin l s to Quito a u Reventador a d D D

Pambamarca o (Quito Loma) Cangahua Reventador 4, 075 m 3, 560 m re ca ig o T C

El Quinche Saraúrco San Rafael 4, 676 m C h Malo i G c h u village e a a m Yaruquí n interest site ua b Puntas g main road i a ngo 4, 452 m Y Ana secondary road Oyacachi river province limit Pifo Oyacachi railway Reserve limit to Quito L. Nunalviro summit Ilaló N 3, 185 m L. Encantada e Elevation g ro s PROVINCE o PROVINCE OF NAPO Paracocha ij OF PICHINCHA u M Q u r a El Chaco l l a

L. Sucus s Cerro Negro Papallacta Pa pa lla access c L. Tucurrasín to Reserve ta L. Papallacta Cuyuja Pan de Azúcar Molino CAYAMBE COCA 3, 830 m Bo NATIONAL PARK MAP L. Muerte Pungu rja s Sources: ETI, 2011; Jarvis, 2008; MAE, 2011 uijo Credits: S. Crespo, P. Cabrera, X. Cordovez Q a Ecuador Terra Incognita Antisana g S Baeza n uno L. Miracocha a 5, 720 m s o C o min ya Su Pa no 8 9 The community of Sinangüé, in the Park, remains within what was once the traditional Faces territory of this group of people. and traces

Kayambis and Cofanes: the “people of the sun” and the “true people”

Cayambe Coca sits in a region that has for centuries enabled dialogue between human beings and nature, a focal point of the dynamics of interchange between the Andes and the Amazon.

istory tells us that, in pre-Columbian times, the heart of what is today the national park was then densely Hpopulated. The inhabitants were the Quijos, cultural and commercial inter- mediaries between the Amazon plains and of Cayambe. Kayambi traditions and festivals which is celebrated in Juan Montalvo with the Andes. During the period of coloniza- are in many cases connected to sun worship bulls and dancing at the end of July. tion, these populations were decimated, and and to the peculiarity of the community’s prox- At the other extreme of the Park, the There are various sites of a space that was once a center of activity imity to the equator (which crosses through community of Sinangüé on the shores of the archaeological significance became marginalized. the Park). During the Festival of the Sun or Aguarico River heralds the beginning of the in Cayambe Coca and nearby There has, however, been continuity in the Inti Raymi, which takes place in Cayambe Cofán territory. In fact, Sinangüé, which to- occupation of the more western and eastern around the summer solstice (from June 16th day is this people’s westernmost community, areas, such as in the Caranqui regions. The Kayambi people have dwelt in to July 2nd), they give thanks for the year’s marks what was once their original territory. ruins of Cochasquí and Zuleta the inter-Andean range since at least 2500 harvest. The festivals of San Pedro and San The current distribution of their other com- and Quijo petroglyphs in El B.C., according to archaeological evidence Pablo, June 29th throughout the region, seem munities, lower in the Amazon, is a result Chaco, Baeza, and Borja. such as that from Puntiatzil, in the urban area to have a similar origin, as well as Octavas, of displacement by oil drilling in the 1970s.

10 11 The a’i, or “true people” as they call themselves, are known throughout the jungle for their shamans’ knowledge of the medicinal uses of native plants (in contrast with other ethnic groups, who stand out for their command of magic powers). Their traditional dress includes striking headbands made with bird feathers and the cushma, a long garment inherited from the missionaries of the 18th century. Perhaps the group that best embodies the shared nature of the Quijos is the indigenous community of Oyacachi, resting in a hidden pocket between the Quito basin and the Quijos River valley in the Amazon. The legend of the community’s origin tells of a Kayambi and a Cofán family who met there and adopted Kichwa as their common language. Up un- til 1995, the only way to get to the town was on foot. After the construction of a highway, the region has become well-known for its landscape, thermal baths, handicrafts, and curious history. Oyacachi has many tales related to native Maito, grilled plaintain, and wildlife, such as those that tell of the worship chucula are some of the of bear and tapir heads. For these practices, the delicious Amazon dishes that church punished the population by moving the can be enjoyed in the Park. Virgen del Quinche, originally situated in Oyacachi, to its current sanctuary, recently declared one of the “seven wonders of Quito.” Another tradition Mantises are South American or ring-tailed coati. is crafting utensils and notable wildlife sculp- part of the tures from alder wood. These can be seen in the immense diversity of Expoferia, which occurs once a year on a flexible insects that date, and which also offers natural products and tourists can local dishes such as guinea pig and maito (trout explore. cooked in pompano leaves). Activities also occur every January 28th for the Festival of the Virgen.

Diversely flavored food: corn, trout, and fava beans with cheese in the Andes; peach palm, chucula (fresh plaintains), and maito (wrapped fish) in the east.

12 13 Cotacachi Ibarra 4, 944 m To PROVINCE OF IMBABURA Cotacachi Pimampiro information lodging restaurant camping lookout forest excursion refuge waterfall Atuntaqui point

L.Cuicocha Sigsipamba Imbabura tourist horseback bird community fauna ora lagoon handicraft rafting 4, 610 m tourism cycling riding watching Otavalo La Rinconada nes L. San Pablo L. de ofa Dan C Puruhanta tu climbing volcano kayak p a m

b Puerto Libre Cusín a L. de Mojanda 3, 990 m Andes panoramic hot spring Olmedo archaeological Sinangüé zone view ACCESS TO RESERVE Fuya Fuya A 4, 290 m g ua A rico L. San Marcos zue la PROVINCE OF SUCUMBÍOS Cayambe Tabacundo Dué Cayambe village 5, 790 m interest point El Reventador main road Pambamarca secondary road Reventador To Lago Agrio (Quito Loma) Cangahua 3, 560 m trail 4, 075 m Railway a province limit To Quito el u river El Quinche z San Rafael A Saraúrco San Rafael protected area 4, 676 m summit PROVINCE S waterfall a l OF PICHICHA a Yaruquí d TOURIST MAP OF o CAYAMBE COCA To Quito NATIONAL PARK Puntas Oyacachi 4, 452 m Sources: ETI 2011; Jarvis et al. 2008; MAE 2011 Pifo Credits: Esteban Garcés and Ximena Cordovez Oya Ecuador Terra Incognita cac L. Nunalviro hi s Tulcán-Parque: 106 km Ilaló ijo Tulcán Qu Ibarra-Parque: 94 km 3, 185 m Sigsipamba L. Paracocha Quito-Parque: 100 km L. Encantada Papallacta-Parque: 8 km Ibarra ACCESSl. Sucus TO RESERVE El Chaco Nueva Loja Papallacta (Lago Agrio) Pa pa Lumbaqui lla L. Papallacta c N t Cuyuja a Quito O E Tulcán-Ibarra: 125 km Ibarra-Quito: 115 km Baeza Papallacta PROVINCE OF NAPO S Baeza Quito-Nueva Loja: 265 km Qu ijos In the lower part of the Park, visitors can walk among the Not to agricultural and suburban valleys give way giants of the moist tropical forest. be missed to Andean forests and páramos speck- led with lagoons. The largest of these is Papallacta, where some of the water con- sumed in Quito comes from. After crossing seemingly enchanted forests of polylepis (“paper trees”), myrtle, and asters, one ar- rives in the town of Papallacta, where there are thermal pool options for all budgets Oyacachi and tastes. These pools, with tempera- tures between 36 and 40 °C, are known to cure intestinal, muscular, respiratory, and Hot baths and bears in the mist nervous maladies. On clear days, the vol- cano Antisana makes the landscape even yacachi is an indigenous community more breathtaking. O within the Park, situated 3,200 meters above sea level in a valley that opens to- ward the Amazon. For centuries, the people of Oyacachi have connected and shared their culture with many other east- San Marcos Lagoon ern Andean communities by traveling on foot. Today, visitors can arrive via a road from Guachalá, next to the Pan-American Sacred waters that irrigate Highway, crossing through the páramos of the fields Cangahua. Oyacachi has a Of all the forms of tourism, camping is conservation program and a community rom the town of Olmedo toward snowy the friendliest to nature. tourism project (telephone: 0985071925) F Cayambe lie fields that are watered that offers hikes, lodging, and meals. Visi- by ancient irrigation systems. They are tors can hike the trail to El Chaco, which lands that once belonged to large estates takes two to three days. The thermal baths of the past but now are the property of (entrance fee of US$ 3) retain their natural indigenous communities. Near the commu- atmosphere by being located near the river. nity of La Chimba –where the pioneering indigenous leader Tránsito Amaguaña was born– is the San Marcos Lagoon, still within the Park. It’s the most easily accessible of the many lagoons and marshes surround- Thermal baths in Papallacta ing the great mountain. In San Marcos, 3,400 meters in altitude and formed by thawing waters from Cayambe, visitors Lagoons and forests an hour and can observe ducks, condors, carunculated a half from Quito caracaras, black-chested buzzard-eagles, and hummingbirds. There are good sites oving along the Interoceanic Highway for camping and a trail between the high M toward Cayambe Coca National Park, Andean forests and the páramos, whose The spectacled bear is one of the emblems of 16 this protected area. 17 difficulty varies with the moisture and the traditional foods and crafts, and celebrations. season (dryer between July and September Walking forest trails with an indigenous and at the beginning of the calendar year). guide is an amazing and entertaining way of learning about the Park’s flora and fauna and the ways in which the natives make use of them. To get there, travel toward La Bonita on the Quito-Lago Agrio road. Buses leave San Rafael Falls from Lago Agrio and can also be picked up on the bridge above the Aguarico. An Amazon flow plunging 160 meters

t the point where the provinces of Napo A and Sucumbíos meet, 50 kilometers be- low El Chaco, we find this site where water from the Quijos River forms three waterfalls and explodes into mist in the middle of a for- est full of birds, to then continue its course with the name Coca. Cocks-of-the-rock can The areas surrounding San Rafael be spotted with some ease, although one Falls are an excellent place to spot must take a special hike to observe their the cock-of-the-rock (above). mating dance. Other iconic birds are the Ecuadorean piedtail, the blue-gray tanager, and the Amazon umbrellabird. To observe the waterfall, walk 600 meters from the road to the Environmental Ministry’s guard station in San Rafael and then two more kilometers to the observation point.

Sinangüé

Coexisting with nature on the banks of the Aguarico River

his Cofán community is in the lowest T region of the Park, at 600 meters of al- titude. Here, visitors can learn something of this people’s worldview, sharing with them shaman ceremonies, preparation of

18 19 El Reventador (3,485 masl) is one of the Things to do country’s most active volcanoes.

Visit and climb Cayambe

ayambe’s bulk is divided between the C Northern and Southern Hemispheres, as the equator lies close to its peak (5,790 masl). From the city of Cayambe, one can reach the comfortable Ruales Oleas Berge refuge, which is close to the Hermoso glacier (4,700 masl) and has the capacity to sleep up to 80 people. From there, climbers begin their ascent to the top, with specialized guides only. The climb is of medium difficulty, but there are stretches of séracs (places where the glacier becomes brittle and breaks) that require technical knowledge and caution. From the refuge, one can enjoy this paradoxically icy landscape above the tropics.

There is a road for four-wheel-drive vehicles from Cayambe. From there, transport can be hired for US$ 50. Mountaineering Group of San Gabriel High School: http://cotopaxi.8m.com Sleeping in the refuge: US$ 10. Climbs: between US$ 300 and 500 per person. local people use to travel east. The path stretches Hiking through the high Andes 42 kilometers (three to five days) through a canyon Ascend El Reventador with forested slopes, one of the most interesting to go with an authorized tour operator and to he páramos and forests of the Park offer hiking routes within the Park. Another captivating trek l Reventador is an isolated, smoking cone to investigate the probability of an eruption (climb- T and trekking options for the day (La Virgen to begins along the southern edge of the Park, in E the east of Ecuador’s eastern mountain range. ing can sometimes be prohibited). Getting to the Sucus lagoon and Oyacachi to Papallacta) or for El Tambo, next to the lagoon of Papallacta, and On a good day, one can glimpse from its peak a peak requires two days and one night of camping. multiple days (Oyacachi to El Chaco and El Cóndor). crosses 60 kilometers (three to five days) through magnificent view of volcanoes and the Amazonian Hikers cross forests with many orchids and birds The eight kilometers (three hours) from La Virgen the Antisana Reserve until arriving at Limpiopungo plains. Its last forceful eruption occurred in 2002, before reaching the summit. to the glacial lagoon of Sucus is an ideal trek for in . when ash covered the surrounding area all the The climb starts at San Rafael Falls beginning hikers. Oyacachi to Papallacta is a trail Hikes should be taken only with way to Quito. Climbing the volcano isn’t difficult (see above). of 36 kilometers through waterfalls and páramo accredited guides. in technical terms, but hikers must cross muddy Cayambe Coca NP: (06) 301 9208 / Quijos lagoons (one or two days). From Oyacachi, it’s also See Directory. Cayambe Coca N.P.: (02) 211 0370 zones carrying their backpacks. It’s necessary County Council: (06) 232 0112 possible to descend to El Chaco on a path that Starting at US$ 65 per person.

20 21 The Pifo-Baeza road offers many magnificent places, such as Bird watching Rock climbing Sigsipamba, ideal for rock climbing.

cuador is famous for its diversity of ive minutes from Pifo toward Papallacta E birds, and Cayambe Coca offers a sen- F is Sigsipamba, the location of the sational sample: from condors, carunculated Machuco climbing rock. Another interesting caracaras, and ibises in the high altitudes, destination is Cuyuja, between Papallata to parrots and toucans in the Amazon. Al- and Baeza. This spot has become a mecca most any site in the Park is exceptional for for climbers. The vertical rock, up to 75 bird watching. San Rafael Falls has already meters high, is first-class and offers many been mentioned, with its eastern subspe- routes and variations. Specialized equip- cies of the cock-of-the-rock. Hummingbirds ment should be used. such as the sword-billed hummingbird, the tourmaline sunangel, the chestnut-breasted Cuyuja is 16.4 kilometers to the east of Papallacta on the Interoceanic Highway. To coronet, and the gorgeted woodstar are only reach the wall, cross the Papallacta River. four of the many species that can easily be monodedo.com/web/paginas/topos/cuyuja.html observed from the eastern hills. The San Use of the climbing wall is free. Marcos Lagoon is a highly regarded spot for seeing high Andean birds, and Sinangüé is valued for seeing tropical birds. Various The carunculated caracara places in the area of Quijos are well-known inhabits the páramos as well as destinations for special tours. Andean legends and songs.

See Directory

Water sports in El Quijos

ordering the Park to the south, the B Quijos River offers particularly good conditions for Class IV (very difficult) white-water sports; important interna- tional rafting events have taken place here, including the world championship of 2005, and, every year at the beginning of November, there is a national rafting and kayaking competition. Trips should be taken with qualified tour guides.

Tours generally include transportation from Quito; the Quijos River is entered from the Interoceanic Highway on the second Quijos bridge, from the bypass or from the parish of Borja. Quijos County Council: (06) 232 0112 From US$ 150 to 400 per person.

22 23 Getting there In the lower zones started sustainable tourism projects that help • Use tall rubber boots to protect yourself to improve their livelihoods and, at the same from mud, from thorns and branches, and time, make visitors more aware of the neces- from possible stings. sity of conserving this irreplaceable environment. • Visitors should use insect repellent and, Choosing these options is recommended. while sleeping, a mosquito net (malaria • Indigenous communities like Oyacachi and has been reported in certain areas). Sinangüé are experiencing rapid cultural • For water sports, it’s necessary to be changes due to the recent appearance of high- familiar with the difficulty of the passages ways. It’s of utmost importance that visitors be you want to traverse and to be aware of disembark at any of the intermediate respectful of and sensitive to this reality. Transportation possible flooding. points: Baeza, El Chaco, San Rafael Falls, El • To get to the city of Cayambe, take a bus Reventador, La Bonita (to go to Sinangüé), Money matters that leaves from Quito (US$ 1.25) from the and Cascales. When to visit Carcelén or the Ofelia terminal (Cooperative Flor del Valle). From Ibarra, the fares are the In Cayambe and Lago Agrio, travelers Even though traditional weather cycles same in the opposite direction. Security and health can use credit cards in many establish- have changed in the last decades, the least • From Cayambe, take a Cayambe ments; there are banks and ATMs in the rainy season continues to be between June company bus to La Chimba (US$ 0.60) to In the higher zones city centers. Payments for various activi- and September and near the beginning of get to the San Marcos Lagoon. From there, • Take precautions against the cold and ties can be made via phone or online. In the calendar year. This is true both for the one can rent a pickup truck to the lagoon the altitude, especially when mountain the smaller cities and in villages, it’s nec- páramos and the Andean forests, as well ( US$ 5); passengers should request that climbing. essary to use cash. Transportation must ≈ as for the lower regions. Nevertheless, one the driver wait at the site for the ride back. • Lemon balm tea can ease the effects of almost always be paid for in cash. can visit at any time of year. To predict rain A pickup truck to the lagoon can also be altitude sickness. in the short term, it’s useful to know that rented from Cayambe (US$ 15). • Hikers must be prepared with warm winds carry water from the Amazon, and as Important contact information • To get to the refuge from Cayambe, one clothing, including hats and gloves, but such clouds from the east signal potential can rent a pickup truck, but the road is should also be prepared to shed some lay- bad weather. Other criteria for planning a sometimes impassable. Trucks can take ers; at certain times of day, the highland - 1 800 TURISMO (1 800 887 4766) visit are local festival dates. up to 10 people (≈US$ 50). The chauffer heat can be intense. Visitors should use - Cayambe Coca N.P.: (02) 211 0370 must also be contracted for the return trip. goggles in the snow and hiking books on - San Rafael guard station: (06) 301 9208 • For the Amazon zone, Lago Agrio is a irregular surfaces. Sustainable tourism practices - El Chaco guard station: (06) 232 9743 good base from which to continue to the • Because of the intensity of ultraviolet - Quijos County Council: (06) 232 0112 Park. TAME (02 396 3239) and Aerogal rays even on cloudy days, it is essential to • The páramos and the Andean forest are (06) 232 0002 (1 800 AEROGAL) fly from Quito to Lago use sunblock. fragile ecosystems where one must be very - Baeza Hospital: (06) 232 0117 Agrio every day between 7:00 am and • While there are no pests or dangerous cautious; walk only on marked trails, always - Cayambe Hospital: (02) 236 1150 4:00 pm (≈US$ 160 round trip, discounts plants in the páramo, visitors should always collect trash, and put out fires completely (if - Baeza Police: (06) 232 0430 for minors and senior citizens). take care not to eat unfamiliar wild fruits or it’s permitted to build one). We shouldn’t leave - Cayambe Police: (02) 278 4071 • Certain bus cooperatives (Baños, Loja, hurt themselves on sharp or spiky leaves. any signs of our presence. Occidental, Putumayo, Transesmeraldas, • It is recommended that visitors carry • We may not remove anything from the Park among others) travel every day at vari- durable bottles or canteens with plenty except for crafts or foods that we find in the Entrance to all PANE continental ous times from Quito’s main bus terminal of water and avoid using disposable communities. protected areas is free for residents and foreigners. to Lago Agrio (US$ 8). It’s possible to plastic bottles. • Various communities throughout the Park have

24 25 Directory Lodging

address reference price contact category

Prices are per guest and include taxes but not breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.

Tour operators CAYAMBE EL CHACO QUIJOS

Activities Hostal Mitad del Mundo Pensión El Chaco Pensión La Casa de Gina Natalia Jarrín S57-74 and 13 de Junio and 13 de Enero streets Baeza Vieja 1. Thermal baths 2. Horseback riding 3. Guided tours 4. Cycling 5. Tree climbing 6. Mountaineering Córdova Galarza 7.50 (breakfast not included, 8.96 (breakfast not included) 8 (breakfast not included) 7. River boating 8. Rafting and kayaking 9. Cultural tours 10. Community tourism shared bathroom) (06) 232 9165 (06) 232 0471 (02) 236 0226 third third second Quito Julio Verne Surtrek Hostería La Guarida del Coyote Hostal Coturpa (03) 296 3436 / 099 416 7350 Hostal Imperial Bellavista Los Guabos development Papallacta Ecoandes Travel Andesadventure (02) 250 0530 [email protected] [email protected] Ascázubi 62 and pasaje La Libertad 10 20.30 (02) 222 0892 9.50 (breakfast not included) (06) 289 5000 / www.julioverne-travel.com www.surtrek.com (06) 232 9421 [email protected] (02) 236 4417 098 628 0274 1 3 4 5 6 7 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 second www.ecoandestravel.com second info@ hostalcoturpa.com www.hostalcoturpa.com 1 2 3 4 5 9 Sierra Nevada Expeditions Cayambe second Hostal Miraflores de Yasnan Pensión Katheryne (02) 255 3658 Marco Chacón and Quito Ecomontes Tour Cayambe Explorer Pan-American Highway South Hostería La Campiña del Quijos [email protected] and Rosalía Arteaga, Miraflores sector 11.20 (breakfast not included) (02) 290 3629 / 099 709 4453 (02) 211 0813 Interoceanic Highway, www.sierranevada.ec 10 (breakfast not included) (06) 232 9146 [email protected] [email protected] Atanasio Minda Street 1 3 4 6 9 099 990 5854 3 6 9 third third 22 www.ecomontestour.com (06) 232 0701 1 3 5 6 7 9 South American Tours Inti Explorer Pensión Carlita [email protected] Pensión El Sol de Cayambe first (02) 227 7365 (02) 236 0564 Between La Revolución and Ecuadorian Alpine Institute Rocafuerte S9-016 and [email protected] [email protected] Quito streets (02) 256 5465 29 de Septiembre Hostería Termas de Papallacta www.southamericantours.com/ 3 6 8 9 10 15 (breakfast not included) 8.96 (breakfast not included) [email protected] Papallacta sat_ecuador.html (02) 211 0420 (06) 232 9055 www.volcanoclimbing.com U&A Cayambitours second 139 (three-person room, 1 3 5 6 7 third 1 3 4 6 9 10 (02) 236 4845 breakfast not included) 3 6 9 Hostería Jatun Huasi Entrance to thermal baths: GONZALO PIZARRO Ecuadorian Tours Wayra Routers Pan-American Highway North, US$ 7 adults; 3.50 children (02) 604 6800 / 099 500 1495 Quijos kilometer 1.5 (02) 256 8989 / (06) 289 5060 (02) 256 0488 33.50 Hostal Paladines [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Small World Adventures (02) 236 3777 / 098 269 2702 Cristóbol Colón and Los Cofanes Ave. www.wayrarouters.com [email protected] www.papallacta.com.ec www.ecuadoriantours.com 099 792 0120 / 098 963 7865 11.20 (breakfast not included) 1 3 5 6 7 8 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 [email protected] www.hosteriajatunhuasi.com first first (06) 234 0222 www.smallworldadventures.com third Hostería Guango Lodge Zona Travel Ecuador 3 8 Hostería Guachalá Pifo-Baeza road, kilometer 53 Explorandes (02) 333 0005 Hostal Sandrita (02) 222 2699 / 255 6936 Termas de Papallacta La Bola district, San Luis de 140.30 (includes three meals) [email protected] Guachalá Street Chiriboga Alcalá and Río Dorado (02) 256 8989 / (06) 289 5060 (02) 382 2310 / 099 358 1250 [email protected] www.aventuraecuador.com/ 44.50 (breakfast not included) 16.80 (private bathroom); 5.60 (sha- [email protected] www.explorandes-ecuador.com [email protected] (02) 236 3042 / (02) 236 2426 red bathroom) (breakfast not included) www. cabanasanisidro.com turismo_kichwa_shayari.html (06) 234 0192 1 3 6 7 8 9 www.papallacta.com.ec [email protected] second 1 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 third 1 3 8 www.guachala.com first 26 27 Below is a short list of some outstanding wildlife found in Cayambe Coca. Given the extraordinary diversity in this area, it is, of necessity, an incomplete list. Enjoy filling it in!

Mammals Andean guan Amphibians and reptiles Series director: Andrés Vallejo Penelope montagnii Editorial design and edition: Nadesha Montalvo Peter’s stubfoot toad † Texts: Patricio Mena Mountain paca Black-headed parrot • Atelopus petersi Design: Esteban Garcés Cuniculus taczanowskii Pionites melanocephalus Photographic research: Martina Avilés and Alegría Acosta Cosanga rocket frog • Maps: Susana Crespo and Pablo Cabrera Humboldt’s woolly monkey Variable hawk Lagothrix lagothricha Hyloxalus pulchellus Map coordination: Ximena Cordovez Buteo polyosoma English translation: Amanda Blewitt Pretty torrenticola frog • White-bellied spider monkey Salvin’s curassow Text revision: David Padgham Hyloscirtus lindae Ateles belzebuth Mitu salvini Glass cochran frog Photo credits: Jaguarundi Andean cock-of-the-rock • Cochranella resplendens Andrés Vallejo (content); Pablo Larrea (5); Enrique de la Montaña (7:canoe); Puma yagouaroundi Rupicola peruviana peruviana Gustavo Proaño (7:glacier); Elliot Smith (11); Juan Pablo Verdesoto E. (12:food, 17:forest); Napo plump toad* Rafael Cárdenas / biographica.com.ec (12:mantis); Murray Cooper (12: coati, 17:bears, 23:curunculated South American coati • Golden-collared toucanet • Nasua nasua Osornophryne antisana caracara); Joe Italiano / .lahesperia.com (17:campsite); Richard Parsons / Bellavista Lodge (17:bird); Pete Selenidera reinwardtii Oxford (17:waterfall, 21); Esteban Barrera (23:climber) Robber frog Little red brocket deer Andean condor • Eleutherodactylus spp. • Mazama rufina Vultur gryphus Coordination, Ministry of Tourism: Mónica Burbano Montalvo and Liliam Figueroa various species Revision, Ministry of Tourism: Undersecretaryship for Tourism Management, Undersecretaryship for Tourism Jaguar Carunculated caracara • Spectacled caiman Promotion and Undersecretaryship for Information and Communication Panthera onca Phalcoboenus carunculatus Caiman crocodilus Revision, Ministry of the Environment: National Biodiversity Directorate and Area Chief Collared anteater Black-faced ibis • Yellow-spotted river turtle Tamandua tetradactyla Theristicus melanopis Podocnemis unifilis Silky anteater Sword-billed hummingbird • Cyclopes didactylus Ensifera ensifera Plants Mountain tapir • Tourmaline sunangel • Tapirus pinchaque Heliangelus exortis Alder • References Alnus acuminata • Coloma-Santos, Andrea, 2007. Reserva Ecológica Cayambe Coca. En: ECOLAP and MAE. Guía del Patrimonio de Áreas Naturales South American tapir • Chestnut-breasted coronet • Protegidas del Ecuador. ECOFUND / FAN / DarwinNet / IGM, Quito Tapirus terrestris Boissonneaua matthewsii Burret* • Fundación Antisana, 1998. Plan de manejo de la Reserva Ecológica Cayambe Coca. Ministerio del Ambiente, Quito Astrocaryum urostachys • Instituto Geofísico, 2012. Reventador. Escuela Politécnica Nacional (www.igepn.edu.ec/index.php/volcan-reventador.html) Spectacled bear • Gorgeted woodstar • • Kohn, Eduardo, 2002. Infidels, virgins, and the black-robed priest: a backwoods history of Ecuador’s montaña region. Tremarctos ornatus Chaetocercus heliodor Peach palm • Ethnohistory 49(3):545-582 Bactris gasipaes • Lasso, Geovanna, 2009. Guión turístico de la Reserva Ecológica Cayambe Coca. Ministerio del Ambiente, Quito Birds Ecuadorean piedtail • • MAE, 2010. Propuesta de manejo para el Parque Nacional Cayambe Coca. Ministerio del Ambiente, manuscrito, Quito Phlogophilus hemileucurus Myrtle • • Mena, Patricio, Galo Medina and Robert Hofstede (eds.), 2001. Los Páramos del Ecuador: Particularidades, Problemas y Myrcianthes rhopaloides Perspectivas. Proyecto Páramo and Abya Yala, Quito Black-billed mountain toucan • Blue-gray tanager • • Rachowiecki, Rob and Mark Thurber, 2008. Ecuador: Climbing and Hiking Guide. Viva Travel Guides, Poulsbo Andigena nigrirostris Thraupis episcopus Polylepis • Polylepis incana This document may be cited as: Cobalt-winged parakeet Amazon umbrellabird • Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2012. Informative brochure for sustainable tourism in Cayambe Coca National Park. Brotogeris cyanoptera Cephalopterus ornatus Pampas grass • Ministry of Tourism / Ministry of the Environment, Quito Cortaderia spp. Sickle-winged guan Aquatic birds Chamaepetes goudotii South American bamboo • © Ministry of Tourism of Ecuador, 2012 Neurolepis spp. Black-chested buzzard-eagle • Black-bellied whistling-duck • Pampano • Geranoaetus melanoleucus Dendrocygna autumnalis Produced by: Calathea lutea

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CONSCIOUS TOURISM Is Love for Life

Conscious tourism is a life-transforming experience that leads to personal growth, making us better human beings.

This new concept is based on principles of sustainability and ethics, and promotes peace, friendship, respect, and love for life as the essence of tourism.

It is a pact to live together in a responsible, mutually respectful fashion, in communion with tour agents from sending and receiving communities, the tourist, and the natural and cultural heritage.

Conscious tourism is a living, dynamic concept in constant development. It is an experience in giving and receiving.

El Telégrafo E7-58 and Av. de los Shyris Av. 6 de Diciembre N59-161 and Manuel Zambrano Quito-Ecuador Telephone: (02) 399 9333