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Japa Mala Mantra

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Japa Mala Mantra japa A strand of beads known as a mala strand or a “recitation” strand of prayer beads is a tool used to count the repetitions of a mantra or prayer that you wish to repeat a certain number of times and to focus your intention on. mala “garland” It is said that as you use a mala strand it takes on the energy of your mantra and becomes more empowering the more you use it. For this reason, it’s thought that each prayer or mantra should have its mantra own dedicated strand. (Good thing you’ll be learning “that which when reflected upon how to make them so you can make several!) gives liberation” For the strand I’m going to be making in this class, I will be using purple cord, round coco beads (which come from the shell of the coconut) and a small “rainbow” of colors for my tassel and beaded tube bead. Various wood (sandalwood, rosewood, bayong, redwood, olivewood), seeds, bone and gemstones all carry different attributes, as do colors. When selecting your own supplies, consider the symbolic meanings of the colors and bead material for the specific prayer, affirmation or mantra/chant you’d like to use the strand with in practice. Materials beading cord - .5mm (I prefer Superlon 18), 32" (81cm) 7–8mm beads, 27 seed beads (I love size 11/0), 64 (a gram typically has about 110 beads) larger bead, 1 embroidery floss/other fibers (for tassel) scrap of cardstock, approx. 2" x 4½ " (5cm x 11cm) sharp scissors tapestry needle T pin (optional) beading needle nymo fine beading thread beading mat (optional but recommended) Part I knotted beads 1. If you’re using .5mm cord, each knot you tie will use up just under ¼" (6mm) of thread so we need at least 7" (18cm) just for knots! I find a strand of about 32"(81cm) to be comfortable to work with; not so short that I have very little to work with when I’m at the finishing stage but not so much that it’s laborious to tie a knot and thread with for each bead. 2. Thread on one bead and position it in the center of the length of cord. Tie one overhand knot to one side of it. 3. Tie a second knot on the opposite side and use a T pin, or tapestry needle to snug the knot close to the bead. 4. Add a second bead to one side of the center bead and repeat with a snugged-up knot. 5. Continue alternating beads and knots down one half of the length and then the other until you have strung and knotted all 27 beads. Hopefully you still have two tails of cord that are about 5"–6" (13cm–15cm) each. With the two tails held together, tie one final knot, snugging it up to the final knots on each end of the strand. 2 Part II Peyote Tube Bead 1. Cut about a 24" (61cm) length of nymo beading thread and thread one end on a beading needle. Thread on a stopper bead. (Ideally, this will be in a color that is different than the beads for your tube, but if you don’t have any extra colors, just try to remember that the end bead is not a part of the pat- tern.) Thread the needle through the stopper bead, then bring the needle around and thread it again through the bead in the same direction to you’ve basically created a loop around it. Pull it gently down the thread to leave a tail of about 5" (13cm). 2. Thread on eight seed beads. I like to have a solid border at the top and the bottom of the finished tube with a random mix of the other colors between. To replicate this, thread 1 border color bead on first, then 6 mixture beads and end with 1 border color bead for a total of 8 beads. Note: if you pull firmly on this row of beads, you will slide the stopper bead down the thread a bit. No biggie, just pull the whole clan back up a bit to reclaim your 5" (13cm) tail. 9. Thread on a mixture bead and insert the needle 3. You’re probably holding the strand now with the through the next bead that is jutting out. Repeat needle end at the top and the stopper bead hanging until you come out of the top border bead. down. Rotate this around and hold the row gently 10. Continue rotating the work at the end of each between your index finger and thumb of one hand row and adding new rows until you have 8 border with the stopper facing away from you and the beads (meaning 8 rows) on each end. You needle working end (with the needle) of the thread pointing should be on the opposite side as your stopper toward you. bead—so they are kitty-corner from each other. 4. Thread on 1 border color bead and slide it down to 11. You’re now going to “zip up” the tube. Form the meet the last border bead you strung on. Insert the flat weave into a tube shape. The ends should fit needle not through that last border bead but through together to continue the brick pattern. the first mixture bead, just above it. 12. With the needle coming out of the last border 5. Adjust the two adjacent border beads so they look bead, insert it into the new border bead that wants like little feet at the bottom of the row. to now sit beside it. Then go back to the other side 6. Thread on another mixture bead and skip the with the next bead down that is jutting out and bead above where you needle last came out and in- insert the needle through it and then the next bead sert the needle in to the next bead that is jutting out. down on the other side that is jutting out and so on, 7. Repeat two more times until you come out the zig-zagging back and forth, essentially sewing up the top border bead. Your row now has little bumps of tube. beads sticking out. It may look a little unruly; hang in 13. When you reach the opposite end and come out there—it gets easier! of the last border bead, remember not to go through 8. Flip your work around again. Thread on another the stopper bead. Remove the stopper bead. border bead and then insert the needle through the 14. Thread both tails back through the pattern and bead above it that is jutting out. trim the excess thread. 3 Part III Tassel 1. Fold the scrap of cardstock in half so that when folded it is 2" x 2¼" (5cm x 6cm). 2. With the folded edge at the bottom and leav- ing a short tail at the bottom, wind your fiber/ floss around the folded piece. 20–25 wraps is good. If you want a second color in the center of the tassel, wrap that color first about five times and then the outer color on top of it, being sure to have several wraps on either side of the inner color. 3. Thread a tapestry needle with a contrast- ing color and go between the cardstock layers, working at the top where it’s open and easier. 4. At the top, use the thread to tie a knot, secur- ing the wraps tightly. 5. Carefully remove the fiber bunch from the cardstock and cut through the loops at the bot- tom. 6. I also like to twist the knot at the top to the inside of the folded fiber bunch. 7. With a new length of contrasting fiber, tightly wrap the bunch about ⅜" (10mm) from the knot to create the tassel “ball.” I find this easiest to hold a 3" (7cm) tail against the bunch with my thumb of one hand as I wrap the fiber around it with my other hand. 8. When it looks like you have enough (10 wraps or so), tie the working end to the tail end you were holding with your thumb in a knot. 9. Use the tapestry needle to thread the ends through the bunch to hide them and trim. 10. Use sharp scissors to give your tassel a little haircut and make her ends nice and even. 4 Part IV Final Assembly 1. Thread both mala strand tails through the tube bead and the large bead. 2. Use the tapestry needle to thread one tail through the loop at the top of the tassel from left to right and thread the other tail through the loop from left to right. 3. Thread both tails back up through the large bead and then the tube bead. 4. Gently snug everything up so there is no slack. Bring the tails around the two threads going through the tube bead in opposite directions by crossing them in the back and then tie them in a knot in the front, just above the final knot on the mala strand. 5. Thread the tails a final time down through the tube bead and trim them. 5.
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