Extension Gardener Class 4:
Growing Fruits and Berries We will discuss:
Fruits that can realistically be grown in central NC – Some are more challenging than others – Which can be grown organically Basics – Things you need to know before attempting to grow fruit Specifics – For different fruit types Fruits and Berries: Considerations Before Planting
Do you have a good site? – Sun and well drained soil – Room to grow Have you soil tested? Can you water? Can you get quality plants??? Too shady?
Fruits and Berries: Considerations Before Planting
Do you know how to TRAIN and prune your fruit tree/plant? Are trellises/supports needed? Are you willing to spray? Do you have equipment, know what to spray?
Assumption
You are growing fruit trees, berries and
grapes for fruit Codling moth in apple production You would like them to produce reliably (80% of time) You would prefer not to eat worms
Plum curculio in peach What Are the Possibilities?
Tree Fruit Grapes and Berries Figs (E)* Blueberries (E)* Asian Persimmon (E/M)* Blackberries (E)* Pears & Asian Pears (M)* Muscadines (E/M)* Plums (M) Strawberries (M) Apples (M/D) Peaches (D) Nectarines (D)
E = Easy, M = Moderate, D = Difficult * = Best choices for organic production What Will Not Work?
Apricots Cherries Grapes - except muscadine Citrus - except in containers – Mandarin (Satsuma & Tangerines) and Kumquats are hardiest but still need winter protection here Bananas – Would have to protect stem through winter to get fruit Worth a try??
Raspberries - will be short lived Hardy Kiwifruit – Vigorous vines – need male and female Pomegranate – set few fruit in SE – Hardy zone 7b Less Common Fruits
Pawpaw, Asimina triloba – Rich, moist soil – Part sun – Deer resistant! Serviceberry, Amelanchier – Moist, well drained soil – Sun – pt. shade Both are native small trees Challenge: harvest fruit before wildlife gets it!
Pawpaw Fruit Growing Basics: Site Selection
Essential for Success: Good Drainage!!! Full Sun!!! Correct pH – soil test! – Blueberries – acid 4.5 - 5.8 – Strawberries – 5.5 – 6.5 – Others 6.0 – 6.5
Avoid areas where water stands after rainfall Sunlight
The sugars stored in fruits are created in the leaf by the process of photosynthesis Sunlight is the energy source for photosynthesis Site Preparation
Mounded bed, 6”- 12” high, 4’ wide or more Incorporate lime, phosphorus, organic matter with soil No weeds or grass in the bed Fruit Growing Basics: Varieties and Chilling Hours
Chilling Hours Number of hours between 32° - 45 °F needed to develop flower buds and leaf buds Central NC averages 800-1000
Choose Adapted Varieties
Low chill varieties (200-600) will break dormancy too early – blossoms likely frost killed High chill varieties (over 1200) will not receive adequate chilling most years to develop flower buds Fruit Growing Basics: Varieties
Plant more than one named variety to extend harvest season – Blueberries, blackberries, muscadines, peaches – Early, mid, and late season bearing varieties available Some fruits require cross pollination
Fruits result from flowers; Fruits contain seeds; Bees make it possible! Fruit Growing Basics: Pollination
Flowers are pollinated by honeybees and native bees Many pollinators, especially honeybees, are very sensitive to most insecticides Never apply insecticides when fruit trees are in full bloom
Orchard Mason Bees Fruit Growing Basics: Pollination
Need Cross Pollination* Self Fruitful Apples and Pears Peaches and Plums Nectarines Muscadines Strawberries Blueberries Blackberries Figs Asian Persimmon
* Some varieties may be self fruitful though higher yields result from cross pollination Fruit Growing Basics: Nutrients and Water
Add lime, phosphorus and potassium based on soil test results Add nitrogen based on crop requirements Fruits = 80% water - Regular watering is essential for high yields – ~ 1” per week during growing season Fruit Growing Basics: Training and Pruning
Essential for health and productivity Training = establishment of initial framework during first 3-5 years Pruning = annual pruning to maintain shape Pruning needs vary with species – Strawberries = none! – Figs, blueberries, blackberries = little – Pears, plums = moderate – Apples, peaches, muscadines = A lot! Fruit Growing Basics: Support Structures
Some fruits need support structures: – Muscadines – Blackberries – Kiwifruit Construct adequate structure before planting Fruit Growing Basics: Pest Control
Choose disease resistant varieties whenever available Provide optimum growing conditions – Water and nutrients, soil pH Correct site selection (sun, good drainage)
Control Weeds – harbor insects, Cedar Apple Rust compete for water and nutrients Some varieties – Mulch resistant; Remove – Herbicides or hand weed all red cedar within ½ mile
Apple Cedar Rust
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/fletcher/programs/apple/plantpath/CARfact.html
Fruit Growing Basics: Pest Control
Prune for good light and air penetration Sanitation!!! – Collect and destroy diseases leaves, stems, fruit – Always remove ‘mummies’ – Keep ripe fruit picked Fruit Growing Basics: Pest Control
Pests includes birds and mammals – Netting/fencing Most feasible to grow organically: – Figs – Blueberries – Muscadine Grapes – Blackberries – Pears – Persimmon
Netting to keep birds out of strawberries Fruit Growing Basics: Pest Control
Spray schedules usually necessary for apples, peaches/nectarines, and plums Timing based on development stage – Begin at petal fall and continue every few weeks to harvest Follow all label directions when applying any pesticide (organic or Codling Moth larvae – Adult moths lay eggs in synthetic) small developing fruits Specific Requirements and Considerations for Commonly Cultivated Fruits Blueberries
One of the easiest fruits to grow organically Native to SE USA Begin producing in 3 years, remain productive 20+ years Yield = 12 lbs per plant (rabbiteye varieties) Plant 2+ varieties for pollination Blueberries
Very easy to grow IF you have the right conditions! – Acidic Soil: pH 4.0 – 5.5 Soil test before planting! Over 5.5 = add sulfur – Well drained, amend with ground pine bark – Not drought tolerant – drip irrigate – Mulch
Blueberries
Often grown on mounded bed Mix organic matter in 1’ deep Can tolerate more shade than other fruit crops, though yields will be reduced
Blueberry Types
Southern Highbush Rabbiteye 6’ – 8’ 12’ – 15’ Earlier yield – harvest Harvest June – July late May – June Tougher – more Smoother texture, drought tolerant smaller seeds Recommended for Need ideal conditions homeowners Pick every 5-7 days Pick every 10 days Rabbiteye Blueberry Varieties for NC
‘Climax’, ‘Premier’ – early season ‘Columbus’, ‘Ira’, ‘Yadkin’ – early to mid ‘Powderblue’, ‘Onslow’ – mid to late
Plant more than one variety for cross pollination and extended yield!
‘Pink Lemonade’ Planting Blueberries
Space 6’ apart in rows/bed, 12’ -15’ between rows Mulch 2” – 3” to conserve moisture and prevent weeds Prune hard at planting – leave only strongest 3 or 4 shoots, cut back all ½ Remove flower buds 1st and 2nd season for maximum root development Keep well watered but not wet Blueberries - Pruning
Late Winter – Remove dead, diseased, weak shoots – Cut out 3-4 of oldest, tallest canes – Remove suckers Summer – Head back tall vigorous canes
Blueberries are large bushes!
Picking and Storing Blueberries
Blueberries turn blue well before they are fully ripe! Berries ripen over time -- Each bush will need to be picked several times, every 10 days After picking (or purchasing) refrigerate ASAP in a container with air holes – Do not rinse until ready to eat Blackberries
Easy to grow Full sun Well drained soil Later blooming – frost not an issue pH 5.8 – 6.8 ideal, tolerant of wider range Self fruitful Blackberries
Produce fruit in 2 years, remain productive 5-15 years Average yield – Erect varieties: 12-15 lbs per plant – Semitrailing: 20 lbs/plant Remove wild blackberries growing within 600’ (harbor diseases)
Blackberry Varieties
Semitrailing Erect Need support Support not necessary but Thornless! sometimes provided Later ripening (late June) Earlier ripening (late May) Recommended Suckering roots – must varieties: Hull, Chester, dig out Triple Crown Recommended thornless varieties: Arapaho, Navaho, Apache, Natchez, Ouachita Training Blackberries
Semi-trailing varieties = 2 wire support
Erect varieties = 1 wire support Blackberries
Bear fruit on 2 year old canes – 1st year new canes grow from crown, branch during first growing season – 2nd year canes develop flower buds on side branches (laterals) – Canes die after fruiting – Canes are cut out after fruiting Raspberries
Grown similar to blackberries, but not as tough or heat tolerant Need well drained, rich soils; afternoon shade Short lived, 3-5 years Raspberries
pH 6.3-6.5 Varieties: – Dormanred – Southland – ??? Heritage and Caroline???, fall bearing varieties – generally not recommended Muscadine Grapes
Native to southern US! Muscadine (purple - black skin varieties) Scuppernong (bronze skin varieties) Easy if properly trained Sun, well drained soil, pH 6.5
Muscadine Grapes
Produce fruit in 3 years, remain productive 15-20 years Yield = 25-50 lbs/plant Muscadine Varieties
Some are perfect flowered (male and female parts) = self fruitful Others are female only = need perfect flowered variety for pollination Other characteristics: – Skin color (bronze/black) – Early, mid, late season cultivars – Fruit size Top: Female Center: Perfect Bottom: Male Recommended Varieties
Cultivar Color/sex Fresh/wine
Carlos Bronze Wine Nesbitt Black Fresh Noble Black/female Fresh/wine Triumph Bronze Fresh Regale Black Fresh Magnolia Bronze Fresh/wine Supreme Black Fresh Doreen Bronze Fresh/wine Fry Bronze/female Fresh Tara Bronze Fresh Summit Bronze/female Fresh Granny Val Bronze Fresh Scarlett Red/female Fresh Muscadines
Fertilization – early March and mid June (reduce rate if too vigorous) Drought tolerant once established Ripen August – October Few problems – Japanese Beetles – Powdery Mildew Russeting caused by P.M. infection earlier in the season Muscadine - Training
Vine consists of: – trunk – permanent arms – cordons – fruiting spurs (arise off cordons) Muscadine - Training
Double wire system - resembles a clothesline – Pergolas and arches don’t work! – Space plants 15’ - 20’ apart, wire 5’ – 6’ above ground
Feb/Early March – cut back last season’s growth (canes) to 3-4 buds; Vines will ‘bleed’ – not harmful 4-inch spur (2-3 buds)
Count bud number 3
Count bud number 2
Count bud number 1 Before pruning
After pruning Strawberries
pH 5.5 - 6.5 Excellent drainage to prevent root rot – Raised beds Full Sun Shallow root systems – Not drought tolerant! – Easily burned by too much fertilizer
Strawberries
Can be challenging – Disease problems, frost damage – Birds! Netting can help Produce fruit in 1 year, remain productive 2-4 years Average yield/plant = 1/3 to 2 lbs Frost Damage Strawberries
Frost Protection – Floating Row Cover/Frost Protection Cloth Irrigation – Used in commercial production – Must run continuously until temps above 32 degrees – Low rates, ¼” per hour
Strawberries
Varieties for NC Junebearers – actually bear in May Anthracnose tolerant, if available – ‘Sweet Charlie’, ‘Apollo’ Others: ‘Allstar’, ‘Earliglow’ Everbearing: ‘Tribute’, ‘Tristar’ – Lower production in summer Strawberry Production
Commercial: grown as annuals – Planted fall, pulled up after harvest – Grown on black plastic with fertigation Homeowner: keep plants 2-3 years – Matted Row – Rotate patch every 2-3 years
Matted Rows
– Make rows/beds 18” wide, with 18” between rows – Plant single plants early spring (March), in rows 36”-42” apart – Do not allow fruit to form first season
Matted Rows
– Strawberries produce runners in summer – Peg down around mother plant to make a matted row – Propagate new plants from runners – start new bed after 3 years Strawberry Anthracnose
Over fertilization encourages anthracnose Choose tolerant varieties when possible Pull out plants and start over if anthracnose becomes a problem!
Tree Fruit for Central NC Easier Persimmons Figs Pears Plums Apples Peaches Nectarines More Challenging Tree Fruit
Most are budded or grafted Rootstock = chosen for disease mgmt or size mgmt Scion = desirable variety If scion dies, just left with rootstock Shoots from below graft union are rootstock Asian Persimmon
Easy, productive Sun, well drained soil Target pH ~ 6.0 Space 12’-15’ apart, grow 10’-20’ tall Begin bearing 3-5 years, live 10-20 years Bear in fall Minimal pruning
Asian Persimmon
Self fruitful, but cross pollination recommended (2 varieties) Varieties are classed as astringent (must be completely soft before edible) and nonastringent Recommended varieties: Jiro, Hanagosho, Fuyu - all are non astringent Figs
Very Easy Self Fruitful Not grafted (easy to root from cuttings) Grown as a large bush – Little to no pruning except to remove broken or rubbing branches Sun, well drained soil, pH ~ 6 Long lived Figs
Amend soils with organic matter Mulch conserve moisture Space 10’ apart Main problem – fruit drop – Root Knot Nematode – Drought – causes fruit to drop Water during dry periods – Fertilization – causes fruit to split, generally do not fertilize – add organic matter Figs
Root Knot Nematode – Microscopic worms that live in soil and feed on plants – like leeches – No way to eradicate – Can spread by moving infested soil and plants
– Can test for nematodes Roots infested with through NCDA, $3 RKN are knotted and galled Fig Varieties
Celeste – considered best for fresh eating – Bears in June/July Brown Turkey – Bears in June – Better for preserves – aka Texas Everbearing May take 3-4 years to bear Brown Turkey Celeste
Image source: http://www.centuryfarmorchards.com/descripts/figs.html
Plums
Sun, well drained soil Target pH 6.5 Relatively short lived, 10 – 20 years, begin bearing in 4-5 years Tend to bloom very early - frost often damages blossoms Trained and pruned to the open center system – like peaches
Plums
Brown rot a problem – spray with fungicides Two varieties give better fruit set Recommended Varieties: – Methley - tend to bloom early – Auburn varieties: AU Amber, AU Homeside, AU Roadside, AU Producer – Morris – Frontier Apples and Pears
Pears easier than apples Apples don’t color well (red) under warm night conditions Dwarfing rootstocks for apples – will keep trees smaller Apples require regular spray program Both are trained as central leader Thin fruit for quality
Pears
Full sun, well drained soil Target pH 6.5 Only semi dwarfing rootstock available Take 5-9 years to bear (earlier on dwarfing rootstock), live 35+ years Space 20’ apart Often set too many fruit – breaks limbs; thin to one fruit per cluster to prevent
Pears
Require little to no fertilizer Too much vigor can be a problem on rich soils Bear fruit on spurs
Pear Varieties
Plant 2 different varieties for best fruit set Only choose fireblight resistant varieties! (all grocery store varieties are highly susceptible!) ‘Moonglow’, ‘Orient’, ‘Magness’, ‘Seckel’ - small fruit, some fire blight ‘Keiffer’ - for canning
Keiffer Fireblight – bacterial disease
Infects in spring – causes Shepherds Hook appearance
Prune out all infected branches 12” below symptoms Asian Pears
Crisper and juicier than regular pears Culture similar Fireblight main problem Varieties: – Shinseiki, Hosui, Kosui Apples
More challenging – more pesticides sprays needed Insecticide applications just after petal fall and 2 weeks later critical Need more than one variety for pollination – ‘Golden Delicious’ good pollinator Rootstock has tremendous effect on size and bearing age (3 to 6 years) Training Apples
Central leader with evenly spaced scaffold branches Branches at 45° to 90 ° angles – Use spacers when young Apple Varieties for Central NC
Golden Delicious Ginger Gold Red Delicious Gala (Fireblight a problem) Braeburn Fuji Granny Smith Heirlooms – Visit Century Farm, Reidsville, NC: http://www.centuryfarmorchards.com/
Fruit Thinning
Must Thin Fruit for Optimal Fruit Quality & Tree Structure Only Need : – 20% apple blossoms – 15% peach blossoms Thin Early For Optimal Size Proper Fruit Thinning Excessive Fruit
Proper Peaches and Nectarines
Very challenging to grow – intensive pesticide program Always test for nematodes before planting Full sun, well drained soil!!! Start bearing in 2 – 4 years Tend to be short lived (~15 years)
Choosing Peach Varieties
Consider: Chilling Hours Early – mid – late season Freestone or Cling (early) White or Yellow Flesh Bacterial Leaf Spot Resistance Many varieties part of NC Breeding program (NC Sandhills – town names) Peach Varieties Use Varieties to Space Out Harvest Season
Candor Winblo Clayton Biscoe Redhaven Carolina Belle Monroe Ellerbe Norman Elberta
See Growing Peaches in NC for more information on varieties: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/ag30.html
Peach Rootstocks All peaches are grafted – these rootstocks reduce Peach Tree Short Life Syndrome – major problem with peaches, caused by nematodes
Lovell Halford Nemaguard Guardian - Best for nematode resistance Peaches and Nectarines
Spacing 12’ to 24’ apart Plant all grafted fruit trees with graft union above soil level Dig adequate hole Prune long roots at planting (if bare root)
Bare Root Tree Training and Pruning Peaches
Open Center or Vase Cut out central leader when first planted – allow 4-5 main scaffold branches to grow Remove vigorous Arial shoots in winter View Peaches and Nectarines
Problems – Many! Scale and aphids – dormant oil in winter Fruit rot diseases – regular spray program over entire season See Disease and Insect Management in the Home Orchard Brown Rot – remove mummies! Next Week: White False Indigo, Baptisia alba Ornamental Plants! Evening: Tues, 4/21, 6:00-8:30 Morning: Wed, 4/22, 9:30 – Noon May 5-6 Class: PLANT SWAP – bring your extra plants (seedlings, transplants, divisions) to share with classmates! Pollinator Workshops and Garden Tours
Tuesday, May 12 Saturday, May 16 2pm – 5pm $20 – registration required Led by Debbie Roos Learn about pollinators and which plants you can add to your yard to help sustain them Learn More About Culinary Herbs
Herb Society of America – http://www.herbsociety.org/ – Educational Conference, May 7-9, Colonial Williamsburg Growing and Using Herbs – Tentatively June 9, 6-8pm and June 10, 10am-Noon – Chatham Extension Center – $5 per person (?)