ISSUE 22 | PORTLAND

TAILOR- A FAMILY RESTAURANT IN PORTLAND MADE TORTA ONE MILLION DEATH MATCH: NEW, OLD, AND ANCIENT LAYERS SOLD QUENELLE V. SCOOP TRADITIONS IN THE CITY OF ROSES 64

In 73 This

Issue 42

13 PORTLAND'S MOST 46 THE LAGER ROSTER 84 NEW, OLD, AND ANCIENT ELIGIBLE COOK FOR HIRE Without bushels of hops to hide TRADITIONS IN THE CITY Chef Roberto Almodovar has behind, Portland brewers are OF ROSES joined the gig economy, and you cranking out full-avored, session- Roses have inltrated the culinary can, too. able lagers. consciousness in a city with a rich, rose-lled history. 20 THE SWEET SOUNDS OF 58 BUILDING WINE CULTURE SERVICE IN A BEER TOWN 90 FLOWER FULFILLMENT e songs that get Portland chefs Portland sommeliers—and the Naomi Pomeroy expands her and bartenders out of their heads Oregon wines they love—are reach and creative voice with and into the groove of service. nally breaking through in a town Colibri, her new oral business. long enamored with Rainier Beer. 23 MILLION LAYERS SOLD 96 IT'S MY POP-UP, I'LL ____ IF Chef José Chesa grew up eating 64 CAFECITO CON VODKA I WANT TO patatas bravas in Barcelona—but We’ll take our espresso martini Grab a friend or ve and write they weren’t anything like the with a dose of Caribbean avor your own Portland pop-up success 30-layer potato clouds at . and Cuban coee culture. story (or overwhelming failure). 32 TAILOR-MADE TORTA 66 IT'S ALWAYS HAPPY 4 LETTER FROM THE e good folks at Güero break HOUR IN PORTLAND EDITORS down the torta by bread, cut, toast, Join Bartender Anna Moss for the llings, salsa, and more. ultimate, all-day happy hour hop. 7 KITCHEN NOTEBOOK 36 FOX IN THE GARDEN 73 A FAMILY RESTAURANT I SUPPORT Chef Ryan Fox thinks seed to plate At Peter Cho and Sun Young 87 with his small but mighty backyard Park’s , the dining room 88 RISING STARS garden. and patio are literal extensions RESTAURANT MAP of their home, complete with 42 DEATH MATCH: QUENELLE children and tricycles. V. SCOOP 89 ADVERTISERS GUIDE Portland pastry chefs go to the mat 76 FLAVOR FOUNDATION: for their ice cream shape of choice. SOY TEA 92 RECIPES Chef-Restaurateurs Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi infuse soy sauce with citrus and Western aromatics On the cover: to layer proprietary avor into Portland Artist Aya Morton imagines nearly half their menu items. a commemorative plate for Portland, displayed on restaurant wallpaper with products from the Paci c Northwest: crab, tuna, chanterelles, hops, grapes, and more. ayamorton.myportfolio.com

2 STARCHEFS RISING STARS PORTLAND 2018 3 GIVE THE WORLD’S BEST TASTING VODKA 1 Million Layers Sold by Hip Torres

PHOTO: BRIANA BALDUCCI

Before opening Barcelona-style tapas potato to achieve a shape as close to a spot Ataula in 2013, Chef José Chesa ½-inch cube as possible. His team uses knew he wanted patatas bravas on the potato scraps to make tor� lla de his menu—only less familiar and patatas for family meal. modernized. “I grew up ea� ng bravas my whole life. It’s one of my favorite tapas,” Since debu� ng on Ataula’s menu, Chesa says Chesa, who was born and raised es� mates that his team has sold nearly 1 in Barcelona. million slices of potato at a rate of 35 to 40 orders a night. A� er three months of experimenta� on, he nailed the formula, packing 30 thin That’s a lot of potatoes—and labor. One layers of potato into a crisp, cloud- cook, James Pici, comes in at 8am each like bravas. Chesa recommends russet morning to begin the ritual (three to four potatoes for their high starch to low hours for every 25 orders). And at the end moisture ra� o, which makes them both of the night, every order has been sold, fl uff y and crunchy. Russet’s size allows and his prep work decimated, devoured, Chesa the freedom to cut and shape the and savored.

SIP RESPONSIBLY. ©2017. GREY GOOSE, THE GEESE DEVICE AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS. IMPORTED BY GREY GOOSE IMPORTING COMPANY, CORAL GABLES, FL. VODKA - 40% ALC. BY VOL. DISTILLED FROM FRENCH WHEAT. Technique and recipe on p. 94 Wagyu zabuton, pickled garlic INGREDIENTS METHOD Zabuton: For the Zabuton: One 3-pound Lone Mountain Wagyu Heat the water bath of an immersion circulator to 56°C. chives, kale, smoked beef fat, zabuton, cut into 100-gram portions To a vacuum bag, add one 100-gram portion Zabuton and Smoked beef tallow 5 grams tallow. Seal bag and cook sous vide 25 minutes. Remove from bath and cool. truffle-oxtail reduction Smoked Beef Tallow: Smoked Beef Tallow: Beef fat trimmings from fat cap Using tin foil, make a divider for a Dutch oven and insert, dividing it in half widthwise. Place fat in one half of the Chef Justin Woodward of | Portland, OR Tru e-Oxtail Reduction: Dutch oven. In a cast iron pan over high heat, place cherry Adapted by StarChefs Yield: 100 servings wood chips. When the chips start smoking (a lot), pour Yield: 10 to 12 servings 20 pounds oxtails them into the other half of the Dutch oven. Cover with 30 pounds veal bones lid and smoke fat 25 minutes. Bring a large pot of water 5 pounds onions, coarsely chopped to a simmer. Transfer fat to a vacuum bag, seal, and cook 2 pounds carrots, coarsely chopped sous vide in simmering water for 2 hours. Strain through 1 pound celery, coarsely chopped a chinois. 1 tablespoon nely chopped Périgord For the Tru e-Oxtail Reduction: true In a large stock pot over medium-high heat, thoroughly Sherry vinegar brown oxtails and veal bones. Remove bones from pot and set aside; pour o excess fat. Add onions, carrots, and celery Pickled Garlic Chives: to the pot and sauté until golden. Return bones to the pot, 1 bunch garlic chives, cut into batons ll with cold water, and bring to a boil. Decrease heat and 100 grams red wine vinegar simmer 12 hours, skimming o impurities. Strain through a chinois into a clean pot. On medium-high heat, bring to 30 grams sugar boil and reduce to napé. Add chopped true, season with 10 grams salt Sherry vinegar, and stir in some nely chopped Smoked beef tallow. ai Basil Emulsion: Yield: 50 servings For the Pickled Garlic Chives: 3 bunches ai basil, picked Place garlic chives into a nonreactive container. In saucepot 600 grams grapeseed oil on medium-high heat, combine 100 grams water with 5 egg yolks vinegar, sugar, and salt; bring to a boil. Pour brine over garlic chives and cool at room temperature. 85 grams red wine vinegar Salt For the ai Basil Emulsion: To a Vitamix blender, add basil, oil, and yolks; blend until To Assemble and Serve: hot. Pass through a chinois and cool in an ice bath. Transfer Salt to a food processor and process until smooth. Season with Baby kale and brassicas vinegar and salt. Transfer to a squeeze bottle. Lime juice To Assemble and Serve: Black pepper Heat a plancha on high. Season the Zabuton with salt and sear on the plancha. Add Pickled Garlic Chives to the plancha and sear. Spoon Smoked Tallow onto plancha and lightly wilt kale and brassicas. Place the brassicas in a bowl and season with True-Oxtail Reduction, salt, and lime juice. Trim Zabuton into 2 neat pieces and plate, drizzling True-Oxtail Reduction on top. Season with pepper. Pipe a dot of ai Basil Emulsion onto the plate and garnish with kale and brassicas.

Wagyu provided by Lone Mountain Wagyu

PHOTO: EMILY KRAUSE

30 STARCHEFS RISING STARS PORTLAND 2018 31 PHOTOS: MEGAN SWANN Fox in the Garden

In a hidden garden behind his Portland bungalow on roughly 200 square feet of land, Chef Ryan Fox grows his own mountain spinach, agastache, shungiku owers, and more for the menu at Nomad. PDX. His raised beds are laced with an ultra-concentrated (ultra-pricey) soil called “White Lightning,” with bene cial fungi that increase yields, promote tolerance to environmental stresses, and improve nutrient intake. With help from former Mugaritz gardener Danielle Signaro (pictured bottom right), Fox spends anywhere from 20 to 30 hours a week tending the beds—on top of serving his seven-day-a-week tasting menu. “We’re Clockwise: Chef Ryan Fox; ground cherries; always thinking a month ahead, from seed purple oxalis ower; Fox’s backyard garden, to plate. We get avor pro les all over the now in its third season; baby carrots; Pippin the place from the herbs, and can cook more Cat, resident rodent killer simply with subtle nuance,” says Fox. Opposite page: Sun owers ARTISAN

Inspired by his hard-working parents, New Jersey native George Kaden began washing dishes at 14. After graduating from e Culinary Institute of America in 2005, Kaden George soon scored his rst New York restaurant gig at the Core Club with Chef Dan Kluger. After three years (two of those as a sous chef) he moved onto Marco Canora’s Hearth. During Kaden’s six-year tenure (four as chef de cuisine) he developed the charcuterie program and Kaden cooked a meal for Alice Waters as she sat at the pass.

GRAND ARMY TAVERN Kaden and his wife, Bartender Annalisa Maceda, grew tired of the city life and, seeking a change of scenery, made a crosscountry journey ending in Portland. Kaden soon joined Vitaly Paley’s team at Imperial, where he assisted with charcuterie production.

All the while, the couple was writing and rewriting business plans for their own concept and searching for investors. ey popped- up around town and originally planned for a vegetable-focused restaurant. It took two years, but after nally landing on the right concept, securing funding, and nding the right space, Kaden and Maceda launched pork passion project, Grand Army Tavern. Kaden gets in one pig a week and bases the menu on whole utilization of that hog. e centerpiece is always a pork slider platter featuring pork products made in-house: smoked bierwurst, PHOTO: BRIANA BALDUCCI grilled baloney, maple-glazed ham, schnitzel, spiced butt roast, Cuban-style roast, hock ham, smoked belly, and more. Kaden only needs to sell 100 platters a week to be in the black, setting an example for aspiring chef-butcher- artisan-entrepreneurs everywhere. Bierwurst Chef George Kaden of Grand Army Tavern | Portland, OR Adapted by StarChefs georgewkaden / grandarmytavern Yield: 8 to 10 links

Favorite kitchen tool: Shallow sixth pan, followed by the pepper mill INGREDIENTS METHOD Favorite cookbook: Jerusalem by Yotam Ottolenghi 1 kilogram pork Chill a large mixing bowl. Freeze pork and and e Gramercy Tavern Cookbook by Michael mixture. Transfer pork to the chilled bowl fat until just icy on the exterior, but not Anthony 100 grams pork fat of a stand mixer tted with a paddle. Add frozen. Coarsely chop pork and fat and Favorite food resource: 4 grams black peppercorns milk powder, beer, and water; mix on low My library combine in the chilled mixing bowl; reserve 3 grams coriander seeds for 30 seconds. Increase to medium speed Most important kitchen rule: Watch the oor. in refrigerator. In a small pan over medium 3 grams caraway seeds for 15 seconds, or until the meat makes a Favorite o-the-beaten-path restaurant: Nong’s for heat, combine peppercorns, coriander, sticky sound. Stu the ground pork into 0.5 gram dry allspice berries the chicken and rice caraway, and allspice; toast until fragrant hog casings, making 7-inch links. Place on a Places you most want to visit for culinary travel: 15 grams salt and then cool to room temperature. In sheet tray and refrigerate overnight. Tokyo, and back to Paris 2.5 grams pink salt a spice grinder, combine toasted spices, salts, cayenne, and ginger; grind until ne. Advice to you younger self: Just keep going and save 0.8 gram cayenne Heat oven to 250°F. Prepare and heat a Add the spice mixture to the pork, mix to your money. 3 grams ginger powder smoker to 135°F with the sausages placed combine, and rest overnight in refrigerator. inside. Gradually increase temperature to PHOTO: ANTOINETTE BRUNO ANTOINETTE PHOTO: 28 grams milk powder 45 grams beer 165°F. Smoke until the internal temperature Chill a meat grinder, small die, and the bowl reaches 155°F. Cool fully. 45 grams water of a stand mixer. rough the grinder tted Hog casings with the small die, double grind the pork

50 STARCHEFS RISING STARS PORTLAND 2018 51 La Moreneta

Bartender Angel Teta of Ataula | Portland, OR Adapted by StarChefs Yield: 1 cocktail

INGREDIENTS 1¾ ounces mezcal Alipus ¾ ounce Yzaguirre Rojo reserva Angel vermouth ½ ounce Campari ½ ounce Aveze ½ teaspoon Zucca Rabarbaro 4 dashes Regan’s orange bitters Teta 4 drops saline solution ATAULA Orange peel METHOD To a mixing glass lled with ice, add At 10, Angel Teta was chopping lettuce and mezcal, vermouth, Campari, Aveze, Zucca, bitters, and saline; stir to chill. answering phones at her mom’s pizza parlor Strain over a large ice cube into a double in Daytona Beach, Florida. By 17, she was Old Fashioned glass. Flame orange peel bartending at high-volume clubs and busy bars over cocktail; discard peel. like Aunt Cat sh’s on the River. Switching coasts, Teta continued her high-volume life at e Australian Pub in San Diego before nally trading drop shots for fresh juices in Portland, Oregon.

She was enamored with the city’s cocktail culture and landed a gig at the RiverPlace Hotel, where she was given free range and, during her six-year tenure, transformed the bar program. Teta also spent quite some time sitting, watching, and PHOTO: BRIANA BALDUCCI sipping at bars like and . Eventually, she moved on to ree The Fortified Life Degrees and then Rave & Rose before nding a Angel Teta has taken a deep dive into vermouths. Here are ve of her current home behind the bar at Chef José Chesa’s mod- favorites—four Spanish and one Italian—and how to enjoy them. Spanish tapas temple, Ataula. She has traveled Yzaguirre Rojo Reserva: Hailing from Tarragona, this drinks bitter with abroad to study Yzaguirre and Martínez Lacuesta hints of cola, but with a clean, light viscosity, so it doesn’t weigh down vermouths in Spain, as well as with Pierre Ferrand cocktails. is is my go-to for stirred classics. in France, Jameson in Ireland, and Appleton Lacuesta Blanco: Bright and pleasingly bitter with oral jasmine notes. in Jamaica. e classic spritz is perfect with this wine, and it works well in a Vesper. Priorat Natur: Blended from three dierent grapes and aged two years in She has also accumulated an impressive slate of oak. A bit of skin contact gives it a deep amber color, and the wood rounds awards: Eater Portland’s “Bartender of the Year,” out the bitter notes. I love this in reverse drinks, or as an aperitif or digestif. Miss Speed Rack (twice), Tales of the Cocktail Vermouth Mata Tinto: A passion project of Patrick Mata, co-founder of competition champ, and winner of the BAR Ole Imports, known for their top-tier Spanish portfolio. Based on an old 5-Day scholarship, among other accolades. In family recipe, it has notes of bitter orange and prominent woodsy spices, addition to keeping the Sherry, amaro, and and it pairs well with salty boquerones or buttery olives. vermouth-fueled party going at Ataula, Teta is Mancino Rosso Amaranto: is Italian vermouth ages for a year in Italian the lead whiskey guardian for Angel’s Envy. oak, which creates a rich, deep avor with hints of quinine, raisins, and honey. I love this in Negroni variations and in stirred Sherry cocktails. ataulapdx

PHOTO: BRIANA BALDUCCI

62 STARCHEFS RISING STARS RESTAURATEURS

AND TL  OR  P 

RESTAURATEUR AWARD

P R R ES KE EN C TED BY MTU PHOTO: SWANN MEGAN

Luke Dirks Joshua McFadden BALDUCCI BRIANA PHOTOS: Chef with whom you’d most like you will need. 3) Previous success does to partner: not equal future success. Every project Luke: My dreams already came true. I am ends up succeeding or failing on its own. SUBMARINE HOSPITALITY business partners with one of my all-time Having a “group” helps get the word out, favorite chefs, Joshua McFadden, and, but that’s about it. together, we opened with my other Joshua: 1) Bring sta that you’ve worked Wisconsin-born Joshua McFadden attended the former Two year later, Dirks took on a management position dream partner, Sam Smith. I’m a Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Oregon. Not at Gabriel Stulman’s Happy Cooking Hospitality, during with at other restaurants, 2) sound lucky person. dampening, 3) overstang, and 4) don’t long after, he began building a résumé in America’s which time the group opened Perla, Chez Sardine, and Joshua: Paul Kahan run out of food. best food cities: Lark Creek Inn and Roxanne’s in San Montmartre, and Dirks became partner and director Restaurant groups that inspire you: Market to which you’re most likely Francisco; North Pond in Chicago; and Blue Hill, of operations. Luke: Happy Cooking from Gabriel to expand: Lupa, Momofuku, and Franny’s in New York. From Stulman and Andrew Tarlow’s restaurants Luke: Los Angeles for its access to great 2007 to 2008, he put his knives aside to apprentice at McFadden and Dirks launched Submarine Hospitality Joshua: Union Square, McGuire produce and proximity to Portland Moorman Hospitality, and OneO and, eventually, manage Four Season Farm in coastal in 2016, incorporating Ava Gene’s as the agship. eir Joshua: Fast casual. It closes the gap. Hospitality Maine, a life-changing and career-de ning experience. rst addition was Middle-East-meets-Paci c-Northwest Concept you’re most excited Top tips for opening a restaurant: He followed that up with a trip to Italy to work on Tusk, in partnership with fellow Rising Star Chef Sam about exploring: Luke: 1) Getting the doors open on day Alice Waters’ Rome Sustainable Food Project. In 2012, Smith. Together, Dirks and McFadden are promoting Luke: Making restaurants work for all one is only half the work. An “opening” McFadden and Duane Sorenson of Stumptown Coee excellence and creating opportunities for their 100-strong nancial and demographic groups, and doesn’t stop until six months (minimum) opened Ava Gene’s, an Italian eatery in Portland, Oregon. sta. not just the upper middle class into a new restaurant. Tweak. Improve. Joshua: Hotels Fix. Make it better every day. 2) Raise Born in Canada and raised in Oregon, Luke Dirks In 2017, McFadden published Six Seasons, which 50 percent more money than you think submarine_hospitality attended Seattle Paci c University, earning a degree in was named “Best Cookbook of the Year” by e Wall English literature. In 2006 he joined Stumptown Coee, Street Journal and was nominated in the “Vegetable- where he worked his way up to regional wholesale focused Cooking” category for the 2018 James Beard director, a position that led him to Brooklyn by 2009. Media Awards.

70 STARCHEFS RISING STARS PORTLAND 2018 71