STARCHEFS RISING STARS PORTLAND 2018 3 GIVE the WORLD’S BEST TASTING VODKA 1 Million Layers Sold by Hip Torres
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ISSUE 22 | PORTLAND TAILOR- A FAMILY RESTAURANT IN PORTLAND MADE TORTA ONE MILLION DEATH MATCH: NEW, OLD, AND ANCIENT LAYERS SOLD QUENELLE V. SCOOP TRADITIONS IN THE CITY OF ROSES 64 In 73 This Issue 42 13 PORTLAND'S MOST 46 THE LAGER ROSTER 84 NEW, OLD, AND ANCIENT ELIGIBLE COOK FOR HIRE Without bushels of hops to hide TRADITIONS IN THE CITY Chef Roberto Almodovar has behind, Portland brewers are OF ROSES joined the gig economy, and you cranking out full-avored, session- Roses have inltrated the culinary can, too. able lagers. consciousness in a city with a rich, rose-lled history. 20 THE SWEET SOUNDS OF 58 BUILDING WINE CULTURE SERVICE IN A BEER TOWN 90 FLOWER FULFILLMENT e songs that get Portland chefs Portland sommeliers—and the Naomi Pomeroy expands her and bartenders out of their heads Oregon wines they love—are reach and creative voice with and into the groove of service. nally breaking through in a town Colibri, her new oral business. long enamored with Rainier Beer. 23 MILLION LAYERS SOLD 96 IT'S MY POP-UP, I'LL ____ IF Chef José Chesa grew up eating 64 CAFECITO CON VODKA I WANT TO patatas bravas in Barcelona—but We’ll take our espresso martini Grab a friend or ve and write they weren’t anything like the with a dose of Caribbean avor your own Portland pop-up success 30-layer potato clouds at Ataula. and Cuban coee culture. story (or overwhelming failure). 32 TAILOR-MADE TORTA 66 IT'S ALWAYS HAPPY 4 LETTER FROM THE e good folks at Güero break HOUR IN PORTLAND EDITORS down the torta by bread, cut, toast, Join Bartender Anna Moss for the llings, salsa, and more. ultimate, all-day happy hour hop. 7 KITCHEN NOTEBOOK 36 FOX IN THE GARDEN 73 A FAMILY RESTAURANT I SUPPORT Chef Ryan Fox thinks seed to plate At Peter Cho and Sun Young 87 with his small but mighty backyard Park’s Han Oak, the dining room 88 RISING STARS garden. and patio are literal extensions RESTAURANT MAP of their home, complete with 42 DEATH MATCH: QUENELLE children and tricycles. V. SCOOP 89 ADVERTISERS GUIDE Portland pastry chefs go to the mat 76 FLAVOR FOUNDATION: for their ice cream shape of choice. SOY TEA 92 RECIPES Chef-Restaurateurs Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi infuse soy sauce with citrus and Western aromatics On the cover: to layer proprietary avor into Portland Artist Aya Morton imagines nearly half their menu items. a commemorative plate for Portland, displayed on restaurant wallpaper with products from the Pacic Northwest: crab, tuna, chanterelles, hops, grapes, and more. ayamorton.myportfolio.com 2 STARCHEFS RISING STARS PORTLAND 2018 3 GIVE THE WORLD’S BEST TASTING VODKA 1 Million Layers Sold by Hip Torres PHOTO: BRIANA BALDUCCI Before opening Barcelona-style tapas potato to achieve a shape as close to a spot Ataula in 2013, Chef José Chesa ½-inch cube as possible. His team uses knew he wanted patatas bravas on the potato scraps to make tor� lla de his menu—only less familiar and patatas for family meal. modernized. “I grew up ea� ng bravas my whole life. It’s one of my favorite tapas,” Since debu� ng on Ataula’s menu, Chesa says Chesa, who was born and raised es� mates that his team has sold nearly 1 in Barcelona. million slices of potato at a rate of 35 to 40 orders a night. A� er three months of experimenta� on, he nailed the formula, packing 30 thin That’s a lot of potatoes—and labor. One layers of potato into a crisp, cloud- cook, James Pici, comes in at 8am each like bravas. Chesa recommends russet morning to begin the ritual (three to four potatoes for their high starch to low hours for every 25 orders). And at the end moisture ra� o, which makes them both of the night, every order has been sold, fl uff y and crunchy. Russet’s size allows and his prep work decimated, devoured, Chesa the freedom to cut and shape the and savored. SIP RESPONSIBLY. ©2017. GREY GOOSE, THE GEESE DEVICE AND ITS TRADE DRESS ARE TRADEMARKS. IMPORTED BY GREY GOOSE IMPORTING COMPANY, CORAL GABLES, FL. VODKA - 40% ALC. BY VOL. DISTILLED FROM FRENCH WHEAT. Technique and recipe on p. 94 Wagyu zabuton, pickled garlic INGREDIENTS METHOD Zabuton: For the Zabuton: One 3-pound Lone Mountain Wagyu Heat the water bath of an immersion circulator to 56°C. chives, kale, smoked beef fat, zabuton, cut into 100-gram portions To a vacuum bag, add one 100-gram portion Zabuton and Smoked beef tallow 5 grams tallow. Seal bag and cook sous vide 25 minutes. Remove from bath and cool. truffle-oxtail reduction Smoked Beef Tallow: Smoked Beef Tallow: Beef fat trimmings from fat cap Using tin foil, make a divider for a Dutch oven and insert, dividing it in half widthwise. Place fat in one half of the Chef Justin Woodward of Castagna | Portland, OR True-Oxtail Reduction: Dutch oven. In a cast iron pan over high heat, place cherry Adapted by StarChefs Yield: 100 servings wood chips. When the chips start smoking (a lot), pour Yield: 10 to 12 servings 20 pounds oxtails them into the other half of the Dutch oven. Cover with 30 pounds veal bones lid and smoke fat 25 minutes. Bring a large pot of water 5 pounds onions, coarsely chopped to a simmer. Transfer fat to a vacuum bag, seal, and cook 2 pounds carrots, coarsely chopped sous vide in simmering water for 2 hours. Strain through 1 pound celery, coarsely chopped a chinois. 1 tablespoon nely chopped Périgord For the True-Oxtail Reduction: true In a large stock pot over medium-high heat, thoroughly Sherry vinegar brown oxtails and veal bones. Remove bones from pot and set aside; pour o excess fat. Add onions, carrots, and celery Pickled Garlic Chives: to the pot and sauté until golden. Return bones to the pot, 1 bunch garlic chives, cut into batons ll with cold water, and bring to a boil. Decrease heat and 100 grams red wine vinegar simmer 12 hours, skimming o impurities. Strain through a chinois into a clean pot. On medium-high heat, bring to 30 grams sugar boil and reduce to napé. Add chopped true, season with 10 grams salt Sherry vinegar, and stir in some nely chopped Smoked beef tallow. ai Basil Emulsion: Yield: 50 servings For the Pickled Garlic Chives: 3 bunches ai basil, picked Place garlic chives into a nonreactive container. In saucepot 600 grams grapeseed oil on medium-high heat, combine 100 grams water with 5 egg yolks vinegar, sugar, and salt; bring to a boil. Pour brine over garlic chives and cool at room temperature. 85 grams red wine vinegar Salt For the ai Basil Emulsion: To a Vitamix blender, add basil, oil, and yolks; blend until To Assemble and Serve: hot. Pass through a chinois and cool in an ice bath. Transfer Salt to a food processor and process until smooth. Season with Baby kale and brassicas vinegar and salt. Transfer to a squeeze bottle. Lime juice To Assemble and Serve: Black pepper Heat a plancha on high. Season the Zabuton with salt and sear on the plancha. Add Pickled Garlic Chives to the plancha and sear. Spoon Smoked Tallow onto plancha and lightly wilt kale and brassicas. Place the brassicas in a bowl and season with True-Oxtail Reduction, salt, and lime juice. Trim Zabuton into 2 neat pieces and plate, drizzling True-Oxtail Reduction on top. Season with pepper. Pipe a dot of ai Basil Emulsion onto the plate and garnish with kale and brassicas. Wagyu provided by Lone Mountain Wagyu PHOTO: EMILY KRAUSE 30 STARCHEFS RISING STARS PORTLAND 2018 31 PHOTOS: MEGAN SWANN Fox in the Garden In a hidden garden behind his Portland bungalow on roughly 200 square feet of land, Chef Ryan Fox grows his own mountain spinach, agastache, shungiku owers, and more for the menu at Nomad. PDX. His raised beds are laced with an ultra-concentrated (ultra-pricey) soil called “White Lightning,” with bene cial fungi that increase yields, promote tolerance to environmental stresses, and improve nutrient intake. With help from former Mugaritz gardener Danielle Signaro (pictured bottom right), Fox spends anywhere from 20 to 30 hours a week tending the beds—on top of serving his seven-day-a-week tasting menu. “We’re Clockwise: Chef Ryan Fox; ground cherries; always thinking a month ahead, from seed purple oxalis ower; Fox’s backyard garden, to plate. We get avor pro les all over the now in its third season; baby carrots; Pippin the place from the herbs, and can cook more Cat, resident rodent killer simply with subtle nuance,” says Fox. Opposite page: Sun owers ARTISAN Inspired by his hard-working parents, New Jersey native George Kaden began washing dishes at 14. After graduating from e Culinary Institute of America in 2005, Kaden George soon scored his rst New York restaurant gig at the Core Club with Chef Dan Kluger. After three years (two of those as a sous chef) he moved onto Marco Canora’s Hearth. During Kaden’s six-year tenure (four as chef de cuisine) he developed the charcuterie program and Kaden cooked a meal for Alice Waters as she sat at the pass. GRAND ARMY TAVERN Kaden and his wife, Bartender Annalisa Maceda, grew tired of the city life and, seeking a change of scenery, made a crosscountry journey ending in Portland. Kaden soon joined Vitaly Paley’s team at Imperial, where he assisted with charcuterie production.