Foot-Power Loom Weaving

FOOT - POWER LOOM WEAVI NG

ED WAR D F W . ORST

Su pervisor of Elem entary Manual Training and W h ca 111 Co s uct on C o . n tr i ork, i g ,

Second Edition Enla rged

H E B RUCE PUB LI SHI NG COMPANY

MI LWA KEE wr U , s.

I N T R O D U C T I O N

HE suggestions offered in this m a nual ar e for those who believe th a t the more advanced weav be e s e e a and a s a ai the ea ing should pursu d as a mo t whol som occup tion th t it hould g n , in n r s h e w e a e ﬁ nd a a e n the a t e . Fe futur , pl c not o ly i n school but l o i n hom lin s of occup tion furnish more excellent opportunity for color combi na tion and d esign th a n does the craft of wea m v g .

Girl s taking the va rious household -a rts courses will ﬁnd weaving a great aid i n understanding the e a e e structur of pi c of cloth .

The work is so ful l of pos sibilities and the results obtain ed h ave such a wonderful effec t on the ch a racter of the worker th a t th ese alone afford ample reasons why weaving should be c arr ied on i n o and both scho l communi ty .

Doubl e weaving as it was don e in th e ea rly d ays i s such a myster y to the hom e weavers of today a was a a th k the e th t i t though t dvisabl e to add a ch ap te r on this br nch of e wor in pres nt edition .

The sca rcity of lin en at the pres ent tim e sugges ted to the a uthor the a ddition of a few good li n en wea e F a ea n e us e e e n iffi v rs . l x is so sily cultiva te d a d prep ar d for e th a t those i nt r st d will fi d littl e d e a ni h culty in pr p ring the fl ax from the seed to the fi s e d pi ece of cloth .

Th e r th e wh i ﬁn e n e d scriptions given. a e for e am ateu r wea v r o w ll d th m m ore ea sily u der sd a e e the e e o the e th n thos giv n in mor t chnical bo ks on subj ct .

e a o e e e ﬁn e he e ffe I t is hop d th t th s int r sted will d h lp th rough t sugg stions o red in this m anu al . ED ARD WORS . W F . T

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

CHAPT ER I CHAPTER I V

— — THE LOOM WAR PI NG AND THREA G Loom Wea n Th e — , DIN vi g ANALY SI S OF WOVEN PATTERNS How to Make a Draft From a — C ons uc o of P a in C o h Th e E sse al a s of Loom — — tr ti n l l t nti P rt Wov en Pattern Anoth er Analy sis Blocking Out a Pattern — e a a on W Th Wa n o d and I ts Use - ' Pr p ring L g arp e rpi g B ar From a Draft 1 01 1 07 Taking Off th e Warp — Th e Warping Reel— Alternate M eth od of

‘ Warping with Four Th reads— K eeping Account o f Threads CHAPTER V Wa ed— Wa n a umbe of Th eads at nce— T u ou rp rpi g N r r O rning ,

— - — m n T n i o n — — or B ea i g h e Warp Spreader Layi g n Sticks Kn tti g LINEN WEAVE S Th e Weaving of Linen Marth a Washington:

— — — — th e H eddles H eddle Stick s Threading th e Loom Th e Reed Towel ﬁ B etsy Ros s Towel M ollie Pitch er Towel— Three Har Th r ead ing and Pl acing th e Reed— Tying th e Loom— Th e Cloth ness Linen Weave— Treadling Draft for Three-H arness Weav e

— — — — ' ’ B eam Th e S h ed Th e Small Sh uttle B obbin Winder Th e M s and o s Pattern 1 08- 1 1 4 Templ eb The Reel CHAPTER II CHAPT ER VI

PATTERN WEAVIN G — Rag R ugs— I ntroducing C olor— Plaids— Pa t DANI SH AND NORWEGI AN WEAVING— Expressing Danish Patterns tern Weaving— B eginning th e Th r eading — Threading th e Reed — R eading a D anish Draft— Tying th e Treadl e— Norwegian Pat Tying th e H eddl e Stick s — Weav ing th e Pattern— Weaving a terns 1 1 5-1 20 B order— S econd Ch ange in Pattern— U sing Ch eck ed Paper Adap a ons of a e ns— Rose a h a e n— Th ead ing and t ti P tt r P t P tt r r CHAPTER VI I Weaving th e Pattern— Th e Lambs 40 -54 SW EDI SH WEAVING— Swedish Way of Writing a Dm ft— Irregular HAPT ER C III Threading— Three-H arness D r att— Eight- Harness Pattern— Hed COLONI AL PATTERNS— Reading a Pattern Draft— Th e Big Diamond dI e Frames— Tie-up for Two S ets of Lambs— Six -H arness Pat

— - — — Pattern Th e Tie up Weaving th e Pattern Th e Trea dling tem — Six - Harness Loom— Eight- H arness L oom— Miscellaneous

— Wh e o e n h Th e d for e a e ns— oc - Draft re t B gi t e r a ing Larg P tt r Bl k Swedish Patterns 1 2 1 1 63 Work Pattem — C h ariot Wh eel Pattern— Orange Pee] Pattern ' ’ Go e no s G a d e — B o a a e s M a ch — Wea the B o de s v r r r n n p rt r ving r r HAPTER V ’ C III B looming Flower— Snail s Trail— Pine K not— Federal Knot Wh eel of Fortune— Irish Ch ain— Rings and Ch ains— Old Q uilt DAMASK DOUB LE WEAVE— D amas k Weave— Threading th e Reed

~ — Pattern— Miscellaneous Patter ns Wlnd Flower Pattern Whig T le— up— Ten-H am ess Tie-up- Table Mat— Rug Weaving in ose a e n— Sun Moon and a s— e o e B m— Li of Woo - e a on ot T ead es— Sea h e l a e n— Tie-u for R P tt r , St r Pin C n loo ly l Op r ti r l S l P tt r p th e Valley 55 1 00 Virginia B eauty— Transp osing a Four-H eddle 1 64 -1 7 6 TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued

CHAPT ER I X CHAPTER X

— — — — TEX T E AND W C omb na ons of Te es and Woodﬂ oo DOUBLE WEAVING Double Weaving Entering th e Doubl e Warp in IL S OOD i ti xtil F t oo — Was e B as e — c ee s 2 1 5-2 2 3 — St l t k t S r n H arness— Weaving D ouble Cloth Do ubl e Pattern Weaving Warp for Double Wov en Pattern— Th reading and Tie-up for CHAPT ER X I

— — — - — N AND T T F D ouble Wov en Pattern Explaining th e Tie up E q uipment of DESI G CONS RUC ION O LOOMS Danish Loom Swedish Loom 22 4 -2 32 Loom for Double Weaving— Miscellaneous M aterials— Th reading

— — — — — - ﬂ ND Y G o dan o mul a for e n Y ello th e Reed for D ouble Weaving Tie up D oubl e Weaving with DY ES A D E IN M r t F r e Dy i g w Reds — e a a on of Ol ium— B ue es— G een es— G een w h — — Pr p r ti l Dy r Dy r it S ev eral Ch anges Analy sis of D ouble Wov en Pattern Tread Birch Leav es— Viol et Dyes —Viol et with C och ineal B rown Dy es ling— Th e Warp B eam— Do ubl e Weaving with Two H arnesses Gray Dy es— Black Dy es— F ui' th er Use of U sed Dye Liq uids a e n Ha ness— Tabb H am ess— Th e i u e H a ness— E P tt r r y F g r r x - — - — - — Y ellow After Dy es Red Atter Dyeé B lu e Atter Dy es Viol et

— - - — — a n n th e Tie ce eo o b Wo en Pat - ﬂ pl i i g up Mis llan us D u le v After Dyes Gr een After Dy es Dy eing of Ol d Goods Bleaching

— 2 34-2 57 terns 1 7 7 -2 1 4 of Wool en Goods Hand Meas ures Foot-Power Loom Wea ving

CHAPT ER I

The Loom War in and Thr eadin , p g g

Loom Weav ing wea ving done by the wom en i n the mountains of Kentucky and e ne ee S o a a e w a e tti Notwithsta nding the introduction of the power loom T n ss . ttr ctiv is th is ork th t l ittl di

is e er e e the a e w e . and all w e e the a cul ty xp i nc d in disposing of rticl s ov n i ts ond rful possibiliti s , h nd loom s till Sinc e the i ntroduc tion of m achin e spi nning and weav survives and seems l ikely to continu e in use sinc e num erous e w a a e e usefulnws ing, no hom industry hich ppro ch s th m in schools and h andicraft soci eties as wel l as m a ny independ e e e e a e a r e or i nt r st has taken th eir plac . I t is tru th t th re ent ar t w e r e e ork rs a e b coming i nterested . This gives hop a e wea now e d the a e m ny lin s of ving produc by m ch in , too th at at som e tim e i n the n ea r future the dom es tic occup a a e be a e e the a the wea i ntric t to tt mpt d on h nd loom , but ving wea and ﬂa x and w wi tions of ving spinning i n both ool ll e o w e and the a e ea of lin n , cott n , ool n co rs r silk th r ds i nto a a ﬁnd a a e n the e a the g in pl c , not o ly in hom bu t lso in a e a e and ea e use can e m t ri ls of str n gth b uty for hom , quit nd h a t e a o . The e studio i n industri l sch o l appr c ia tion of wel l be c a rri ed on i n the studio and even by the hom e m a ker

a w has the a e a e ea e the wh h e e h nd ork , during p st d c d , inc r s d i n o as oth r hous hold occup a tions .

e a the . e t the e r a e stim tion of public Th re i s no doub as to sup rio i ty of a wel l m d ,

- a E ea e as we as a a w e a e. a w if the a In v rious urop n countri s , ll in Indi , h nd ov n rticl This is pl inly sho n h nd

de a n th a e- a r e H a and Ja a a o we a d e e a e a a e . a a es . Chin p n , h nd lo m ving still continu In m m chin m d rticl s comp r d nd r wa an Swe er h wea too e a i e wea e No y d d en a v y succes sful li ne of home i loom ving, , is sup rior to m ch n ving if j udg d d h ffe The a ustr y is c arried on to great a dvant age to m any wom en by t e e ct i t is likely to h ave on the worker . h nd . who ﬁnd e e a i th wea e e e a ea an e a i t n c ss ry to a d in e fa mily support . This v r is mploy d in pl s t , ing nious occup tion ma a be th w n w e e e a ll a e w e the a e a a y lso said of e om en in the Orkn ey a d Sh etl and hich x rcis s his f cul ti s , hil tt nd n t on a we e a e a t o whinh no Isl nds . po r loom i s ng g d in mono on ous t il in e e e Of la te much h as been wri tten of the bea utiful h and qu ality but int nse watchfuln ss is requi r d . FO O T— PO W ER LOOM WEAVING

5 H J f The obj ect of this m anu al on weaving is to give to the ’ am a teur weaver the beneﬁt of the a u thor s exp eri enc e i n e a the ﬁber s the wa and the ea th e pr p ring , rping th r ding of a wea vi as we as ea e e and loom for pl i n ng, ll l rning to int rpr t to ex ecute va rious pattern draft s nsea i n our own and

e other coun tri s . Through the ex ercises given it is hoped the weaver may be led to i nven t and to work out m a ny i nteresting and

i e orig n al d signs .

The Constr uction of Plain Cloth

If a piec e of pl ain cloth is exa min ed i t will be found to consist of a number of longitudin al threads pl aced side

n e The by sid e a d int rl ac ed by a continuous singl e thread . l a tt er th read p asses altern ately above and b elow or before an e th i i 1 the ar d a ea F . w b hind e long tudin l thr ds . g sho s ra ngem ent of the longi tudin a l threads and th e continuous

ea n e e th r d crossing a d i nters cting th m .

The longi tudin al threads of a piece of woven materia l e e ar e a wa a the wa . e ar e a e e a l ys c ll d rp Th y so n m d , b c us , in order to allow their being intersected conveni en tly by th ea e e be a e e continuous crossing thr d th y h av to w rp d ,

a a e e a e th t is , tightly str in d i n posi tion on som kind of fr m e h e The o ea pr pa red for t e purpos . c n tinuous c rossing thr d

has e e a na e as we w o e . s v r l m s , such ft, oof , or sho t ( sh ut )

If the warp threa ds ar e c a refully ex amin ed th ey Will be found to consist of several ﬁne th reads twisted togeth er .

' e e The weft ma be Thi s is don e to give add d str ngth . y

— ce of a n o h e and the ea w e as a e Fig . l A e C singl thr d only slightly t ist d , this m k s Pi Pl i l t ESSENTIAL PARTS OF A LO OM it soft so the wa rp and weft ar e easily pressed togeth er into

r a ﬁ m m a teri al . The weaving of m a ts and ba skets from loc al m a teri als and f r fﬁa ‘ r ee d a nd w w ma be e w t an rom a , illo y don i thou y speci al appli anc e for holding or stretchi ng the m a teri al

w e e w e . hil it is b ing ov n _ “f hen ﬁne th read is to be woven th e probl em is very

e e and e e a e e e a e e diff r nt , i t b com s bsolut ly n c ss ry to d vis e a nd e the wa som kind of fr m e to hold a str tch rp upon , so e a t The e tha t the weft m ay be readily int rl c ed wi th i . mor ' el abo rate fram e constr ucted for th is purpose has by uni versal consen t been c a ll ed a l oom.

The E e a Pa t a L m ss nti l r of oo 2— m e oo m Fig . Si pl L

In all the a nci en t pictures of looms th e stretch ed warp a e es W e n t stri ngs cross each other in regul a r succ sion . hil ea a r e w and the e the we ea thr ds sho n ins rtion of ft th r ds “ ” the D ar e e e the wa it im ‘ rods k p t i n th ir posi tion in rp is e e the ea e the one univer sal and is sugg st d ; but l s , indis possibl e for the th reads to get ou t of pl a c e or to get hop e e e wea has ee te . p nsable contrivanc e us d i n vi ng, b n omi t d e e a e as e e a w an ea l ssly nt ngl d , th y c rt inly ould i f y gr t num W e w a e ee e e no hil not sho n , i t m ust h v b n th r , for loom ber ea e of th r ds were us d . could be op erat ed with out it. This c ross is c all ed the l ea se and is rea lly the one ih i 2 a e the ee e the F g . illust r t s th r st ps in construction e a t ma be a e disp nsabl e p rt of the loom . No wo looms y lik a The a to the of simpl e loom . construction is sim il r looms n e e ne n i n a y oth er r sp ct bu t i n the case of the l ease. O ca a e the the we a e . m d by pupils of lo r gr d s ' not dispense w e et e e a e i “ ” h i th this simpl y p rf c t contriv nc for F 2 A w the w t e ea . g . , sho s loom i thout th r d ee the wa e ea e w e a wa “ ” k ping rp d thr ds i n ord r h n long rp B shows the wa rp th reads wound upon i t l ength a m d e up of h und reds of th reads is requi r ed .

“ ” P e a a Lo War 0 shows the strings on the boa rd in tersec ted by two r p ring ng p “ ” ’ D in a wa a a e a e o y e and A wa e a the a be a e the rods, , such y th t lt rn t strings g o r rp long r th n loom c nnot m d upon

e e . h a e w e the h e as w A B Fi a t e e e t e a as w C . 2 . und r ch rod I n sp c b t n rods lt r l oom sho n i n , , , g ' ‘ 1 0 FO O T-POWER LOOM WEAVING

C B A E D - The such as woul d be required for a foot power loom . warping boa rd m akes i t possibl e to illustra te p erfectly t ' he principles of warping . i 1 2 and 3 ee The a w F . 3 bo rd sho n i n g ( , ) is si x f t long a e a ﬁr ml a wa at by one foot wid e. I t is m d to h ng y on ll such a h eigh t from the ground th a t the operator can rea ch E D to any fiar t of i t withou t difficulty . i w ten On a a the e a e F . 3 a a bo rd , siz i ndic t d i n g , rp A e e ma be y a rds i n l ength may be warped . long r l ngth y warp ed eith er by increa sing the l ength of the boa rd or by

i ncreasing its width and a dding to the number of p egs .

‘ Th e be a e a w not e a C D 1 D e p gs should m d of h rd ood l ss th n six

i nch es long and one inch in di ameter .

The e ar e A and E be a e er e p gs m k d h must mov bl , p f c tly The a e e wee e . smooth and h ave. nic ely round d ends sp c b t n n o and the a e be A and B b e e a o e , 3 — Use of Wa n oa d should not l ss th n fo t sp c Fig . rpi g B r e wee D and E and 0 e . The a e tween B , six inch s sp c b t n

N 1 Fi . e e e a a a t be l a o be one . o . This b ing tru , som sort of pp r tus mus con shou d ls foot ( , g structed o n which to build up a series of threads of ex actly Th e Bo ard in U se ese h ea the required l ength and numbe r of threa ds . Th t r ds “ h e at a be a e a wa be e e a the a e e o a w e Let t e p robl m h nd to m k rp of thi rty m ust. h l d in x c tly s m t nsi n so th t h n

n . transferred to the loom and stretch ed between its fron t and threads t e y ards long

- wa end b ack beams th ey sh all give the weaver as little troubl e as Pl ac e a spoo l of ordin ary four ply ca rp et rp on e a e e e a the ea ma pos sibl e with loose th reads . in a rec pt cl of som kind in ord r th t thr d y had This proc ess of prep a ring the th reads is c all ed war p freely unwind}If a spool rack may be convenien tly ne the the r e e wa the wa . th o ma be e o ing . Th ere a e s v ra l ys of doing rping e spo l y slipp d on to of rounds of Tie the ee end the wa the a e Construction of Warping B oard rack . fr of spool of rp to mov bl i i e the th r ea d u nder e B and 3 . G 2 F . e A . p g u l Fi 3 w th e of a war a . O p g , N o , g u d g. sho s construc tion ping bo rd e e w the e e as w . e ea ov r e 0 . Th n follo dott d lin , sho n i n N o this board may be wa rp ed a moderate numb r of thr ds , p g SECURING THE CR O SSES 1 1

i a w th ea e the e ea one. Ou a the a e e th wa 2 F . 3 e a e , g , by llo ing thr d to p ss outsid p gs inst d of ccoun t of co rs n ss of rp 4 5 nd 7 ea e e e e a e the ea e a 1 2 3 a e e G a e . , , , b ck to , th n to p gs , , until it r ch s th r is littl or no d ng r of th r ds b coming t ngl d A e e a e e a a e D w e e . a the ea now e e a p g , hich i t go s und r C rry th r d ov r mor d t il d xpl n tion of running mor th n four and n e e E and e e e b a the ea w be e a e . The a e we e w u d r p g , th n b gi n its r turn y c rrying th r ds ill giv n l t r bov , ho v r, orks ‘

i 7 see t e e e e . t e e D . 3 F . 3 to e hr ad ov r , N o , g , on p g ( do t d lin s ) v ry succ ssfully

and a the a e e we a a r ea e 1 . Securi the e so b ck i n s m cours , u ntil g in ch p g ng Cross s no b a e e w C e B and e w A see The a a e e h It must w e t k n b lo , ov r , b lo ( import n t m tt r of s cu ring t e crosses is easily e n e Th wa e e th war w e e o e . e e be e dotted lin s ) . This compl t s cours rping d on , but if forgott n p ill spoil d wh en i t is e h a the ea e t e . i . w no e . 3 F 3 board should w look lik N o , g , ith thr ds r mov d from bo rd Fi 4 w e Two ea . a the wa we e B nd C and D and E. e Th ed e e a . e e te in cross b t n p gs , th r ds g sho s cl rly y it i s don l t rs

a e now ee wa e a a e ten a be dicate the e the wa a the ea e a r e h v b n rp d , h ving l ngth of y rd s p gs of rping bo rd ; h vy lin s the ea a wa w ma be n e h e . a e twe n t e cross s th r ds of rp , h ich y of y numb r of and e The second thread h aving been c a rried a round th r ads .

‘ e e A we e a nd e we e a the C D ov r p g , n t und r B th n follo d x ctly

ﬁ r ea e e E . e course of the st th r d un til it r ach d Th n , fol

e a ea e A e e and lowing the s cond th read b ck it r ch s , go s und r

e the e and ea the ar e wa ed . ov r p g, fou r thr ds ou t of thirty rp By the tim e fifteen forward and fifteen backwa rd j ourn eys 4— ecu n th e os Fig . S ri g Cr ses ar e m ad e the sample warp of thirty th reads is finished and ma be a e the a as o as the e a e y t k n from bo rd s on c ross s h v The importan t crosses ar e shown b etween C and B e been m ade s cure. a nd e wee D and E A . a e a w b t n thin , pli bl cord bou t t o y a rds

One can rea dily und ersta nd by the above expl a n a tion long is now : d r a wn in at each cros s from the back to the

a e w be e a the e th th t a grea t amoun t of tim ould consum d i n m king front , th rough op nings in fron t of e p egs . Tie the

- a wa a one ea at a e. S e e the as w Fi 4 B the rp by h ndling th r d tim inc four ply nds of cord sho n i n g . . y th is m eans

a e a to be e the ﬁr s t wa e ar e e ] e e d c rp t w rp i s us d for rping, four spools cross s e p rf ct y s cu r .

m a the o a the e e the w er ay be pl ced on spo l r ck , four nds ti d to I t il l be obs v ed th at th ere is a noth er cross i n the

n nd e the e e w wa wee A no e a o e a e an t a . A t prop er p g t e tim th n cours pursu d ith rp b t n B d . This i s so import n t sh or

the a as was e e one ea . ma be aw the oo at e A and the four th re ds , d sc rib d for only th r d cord y dr n th rough l p p g , ' ea to a e and e the eg ea ma This causes fou r th r ds p ss und r ov r p s th r ds y be ti ed all togeth er . 1 2 FOOT-P OWER LO OM WEA VIN G

C D f;

5— Ta n off th e Wa Fig . ki g rp

h wa w the e a a two eet the end . The warp may now be removed from the boa rd and t e rp ith l ft h nd bout f from the e a w the Whil e the warp is being h eld with l ft h nd, thro m ade into wh at is c alled a ch ain . the t a as w at F end over the warp with righ h nd , sho n ,

H Wa i T a O th e 5 . king rp F g .

h e a a e a . W t e l The wa rp i s taken off the warping board for conveni This m k s kind of loop ith ft h nd still th e wa the i a the o ence in transfering it from the board to the warp bea m of holding rp , r ght h nd is put through lo p Th wa a e and aw the i . e th at G F . 5 rp is gr sp d dr n th rough e loom . , g e e the ee a e e e the wa ea loop far enough to m ak e a s cond loop , h ld by righ t The crosses h aving b n m d s cur , rp is r dy h e a now ee and the The t e wee h and . T e l ft h nd is fr is pu t through to be removed from the boa rd . long s rings b t n h wa a e and w o e b th e a . T e th e crosses may be wra pped around th e warp to prevent ne lo p h ld y righ t h nd rp is gr sp d drawn th rough the new loop thus m aking a third loop them from hanging i n the way. The r a e ee A w the wa h eld this tim e by the l eft h and . igh t h nd b ing fr e he e A Fi . 5 . First r move t p g , g llo rp to slip o the wa a e and H ut the , i . . is up through third lo p rp is gr sp d h e e and C and a . 1 F 5 from t e oth r p gs , B , lso No , g ol d p

; — Wa om War n oa d Fi 6 h a.in ade w h t g . C M it r fr pi g B r

14 FOQ T- POlVER LO OM WEA VING

1 1 *— e h o of n Fig . M t d Starti g Threads

1 2 — Th s o e ow Fig . read s Pas ed v r L er Peg s

— Fi Wo n — — . 9 awin of ool ac g 1 0 o . 1 3 A o h e e h o Of a n Th rki g Dr g Sp R k Fig . Sp ol Rack Fig n t r M t d St rti g reads

aw th dr n through e loop . This is continu ed until the en The Warping Reel

' e wa has ee e e h The u se the wa ee e e a e the tir rp b n r mov d from t e bo ard . of rping r l , som tim s c ll d Th e w ew a im liﬁe the e w e a off th a s s a . proc ss of t king e wa rp will be recognized rping mill , som h t p proc ss of rping

a s the a e as a a a t e the Fi . 7 w a w a w a wa ee and s m m king ch in s itch i n croch ting, g sho s orking dr ing of rping r l ,

w ni . a th w e Fi . 8 the ﬁ shed ee e a a . See Fi . h n ds doing ork inst d of hook g 6 . g sho s r l e e a the wa w ma now be e a w be e e a the e a ea the B for pl cing rp , hich y call d I t ill obs rv d th t p gs pp r on cross a the wa ea the a e e a the ﬁ nish ed ee a e A B C and D E the ch in , on rp b m of loom , noth r m thod of b rs of r l m rk d , , , , ,

n the war a . The a e e wee the warpi g will be considered . sam e as on ping bo rd dist nc b t n THE WARPIN G REEL 1 5

the ee 2 The e w a e 0 and the two a e at upright p osts of r l is 7 inch es . spools of wa rp b lo B to p ss ov r bring bov B so th

ar e a e as w e the wa e S e e a e w 0 Fi . 1 3 . F the pl c d h n rping boa rd was us d . om sort th y p ss b lo , g rom thi s point four

a o a a e a e Y et an e e ea ar e e a the ee as a e e e . of spo l r ck is lmost indisp ns bl . y conv ni nt thr ds guid d round r l j ust bov d scrib d wa a a Th ea a e and e D a nd E as w y of rr nging the spools so the th rea d will freely uu e fou r th r ds p ss ov r und r , sho n w i 1 2 n e e e A the ea as w we h i F . . O a t e e. F 9 w the w ind , ill ns r purpos g . sho s orking i n g th i r r tu rn to p g four thr ds p s dr awin o f the a n i 1 h ﬁni hed e the e the two we e and e the e the g spool r ck a d F g . 0 shows t e s u nd r p gs n t ov r , ov r p gs two went under and the warping p roc eeds in the sam e rack . ,

a e as w e the wa a . Supposing th a t fou r th reads ar e to be wa rp ed a t one m nn r h n usi ng rping bo rd

i e. The e a r e all e at one e e A t m four nds ti d tim to p g , Keeping Account of th e Number of T hrea ds Warped Fi 1 1 . e r e g. Th y a e c a rri d under B and over 0 a nd th en As soon as the th reads h ave crossed a few tim es be a e wa a the ee the ea e e st rt on th i r y round r l , thr ds b ing guid d wee e D and E w be difﬁcult e e e t n p gs , i t ill found to r m mb r on their way to p egs D and E by the l eft h and while the h how m any th reads ar e gath ered togeth er on t e p egs . I t ee i Th r l s tur n ed by the righ t h and . e p erson perfo r ming becom es n ecessa ry to use som e d evic e for k eep ing count i n the w a a n ea e D h ork rem ins st tion ary . O r ch ing p g t e group ord er to know wh en the warp is completed . of four th r eads is ca rri ed over it u nd er and a round E a nd , Thi s a ccoun t can be ea sily kept i f a piec e of cord or a i e D as w F . 1 2 . F e e the ea b ck und r , sho n in g rom h r thr ds ta p e is used . a a wa e A and C a e C e st rt b ck to rd p gs , B , p ssing und r , ov r and e and a A e and e 0 as the und r round , und r B ov r , in

Th e a e reel m ea sures 2 7 inch s between posts . P ssing

a the ee e e a ee a wa . round r l onc i s qu l to th r y rds of rp 1 4— e Fig . K e ping Account of Threads Warp ed ’ K w a e a n ea a e ea e 0 11 an no ing this , m k s it sy m tt r to m su r y e A e the e w e numb r of y ards . ft r group of fou r thr ads passes bet een p gs

D and E ﬁve e aw on end the a e tim s , dr e of cord or t p A he Wa e W h F Th ea not r y to B gin it our r ds the e ne e D a nd th n through op ning xt to p g , e oth er e d The ea ma be e e e and e the e e E i 4 as w F . 1 . four thr ds y ti d tog th r slipp d on th rough op ning n x t to , sho n in g e A two ea e the e a nd the The wa e nve e to p g , thr ds b ing on top of p g rping continu s u ntil mor groups h ave e w e w e ee t o . th two ea w ar e e w ee wa e as the e e e e . oth r b lo B ring th r ds hich b lo b n rp d or r l d , proc ss is som tim s call ed

“ “ ” A e B n h A w the two The end the e a a d t e two a e A e w B . e a e f Fi 1 4 , ov r , bov , b lo llo of color d cord or t p m rk d , g. , 1 6 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VING

is now as e the O e e e D and p s d through p ning n xt to p g , “ ” the end of the cord or tap e m arked e p asses through the e e e E a op ning n xt to p g , thus m king a cross in the cord or tap e between the fir st group of five and the second group fi A e ar of ve. s th re e twenty th reads i n each group the w e w a the wa a e ork r kno s th t rp cont ins forty thr ads . This is continued until the required number of th reads has been

reel ed . The cross at the begi nning and the one at th e end of the wa rp ar e now secured in the sam e way as wh en the a h w warp is m d e on t e arping bo ard .

Rem ov ing the Warp from the Reel Peg A is removed and the warp is slipped from p egs

n a a e h w e e B a d C . A ch in is m d t e sam e as h n r moving a h i . 1 . war p from t e wa rping boa rd . See F g 5

T o Warp a Numb er of Threads at O nce

If only four or six threads ar e wa rp ed at a tim e these m ay easily be ca rried and pl ac ed over and under th e p egs

. w e ea e a e a e a w e th e in a group I t ill b l rn d littl l t r th t , h n ea e ar e a e e e ea a l s rods pl c d , ith r four or six th r ds, ccording th e wa a a e w a e and e to e numb r rped t tim , ill p ss ov r und r

the rod s at one time . W e e ten we e ee ea ar e wa e h n ight , , t lv , or sixt n th r ds rp d at a tim e the probl em is som ewh at more complic at ed and should be done in such a way as to bring altern a te th rea ds a e e h over a nd und er the l ease rods . This a rr ng m n t of t e threads m akes the threading of the loom easy and keeps

— . 1 5 Remo in th e Wa om th Reel Fig v g rp fr e the threads fromb ecoming sna rl ed or twisted one with an

' 1 8 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVING

i 1 B — Reel n E h Th eads W h add e F g . 7 i g ig t r it P l WARPIN G SEVERAL THREADS 1 9

th reads ar e c rossed on the ﬁnger and thumb of the right

a e o h . e h nd . This cross i s transf rred t t e p egs When pl ac d th e e and C w be at e e a on p gs B , i t ill found th th r is cross

a e a e ea Th e ea r no e i ng of lt rn t th r ds . e igh t th r ds a e w h ld i n one group and c arrie d around the war ping reel un til the e h r ea e Th e p gs at t e oth er end a e r ch d . e group of th r ads i s ca rried over a nd und er the p egs the sa m e as was de scribed with the wa rping boa rd wh en only one or four

th reads at a tim e were wa rped .

T u i O n eam rn ng , or B ing At the present tim e the wa rp is i n a long ch ai n ready to be pl ac ed on the l oom i n such a way as to m ake i t pos

sibl e for the weaver to produce a piece of cloth . To do this the e at E b a a e to a le in a e nds m ust e tt ch d rol r, ( this c s the warp bea m ) and sprea d ou t and wound evenly a nd

it The wa ea h ts the a the tigh tly upon . rp b m into b ck of — — . 1 8 1 9 eco d Th ead u ed Fig First Th read P ulled Fig . S n r P ll

own a e as w Fi . 2 0 . D own D loom fr m , sho n i n g

For e a e a the - be w e d monstr tion , suppos th t cloth to ov n

2 2 e w e and e e a r e be 2 4 ea ea . h and on the lowes t th read on the righ t sid e of the guid e i s inch s id th r to th r ds to ch inch The wa e a 52 8 ea and e and e i 1 Th ead rp th n cont ins th r ds , thi s numb r is w wa F . 8 . e pr ssing i t do n rd , g thr j ust I t w be r e e m a d e up of 6 6 groups of eigh t th rea ds each . ill pr ssed down passes under the ﬁnger a nd over the thumb . e e e a was e the ea With the thumb press down the lowest threa d on the l eft m mb r d th t coun t k pt of groups by m ns of th e ) n E h w e th the cord or ta pe b et ween e p gs l a d whil e t e a rp i . e a e e the e e F . 1 9 a sid of guid , g Th is th r d p ss s und r

in was e . an er A w the fin er e w g i n progr ss thumb d over the fing . llo g to pr ss do n the second thread on the righ t sid e of the guid e . This T he Wa S e a e Ra e ea rp pr d r ( ddl ) thr d now p asses under the fi nger a nd over the thumb . W 2 1 w w a w the eade a h Fi . a ith t e thumb p ress down th e second th rea d on the l eft g sho s orking d r ing of spr r, lso

e th e he a e a e . i 1 8 . e ll t e F . a sid of guid , g This is contin u d unti l c ll d r ddl - WEA G 2 0 FO O T POWER LO OM VIN

2 — oom w h ar s amed Fig . 0 L it P t N THE WARP SPREADER 2 1

1 — Wo aw n of Wa eade or add le Fig . 2 rking Dr i g rp Spr r R

i 2 2 w th aw the ﬁnished ea e The ca dee e a e the ee and has e F g . sho s e dr ing of spr d r p is ply groov d bov t th hol s the e the a e ea the en . e e e with the top removed . n r ds Th rough th s hol s sid s of fr m i 2 2 e e as a w a e ﬁx on a s w F . . The spreader is most simply d scrib d comb , ith p ss i n ord r to i t , sho n in g The r e A o e e has th e e e t a e a movabl e cap to cover the ends of the teeth . f am i s l om fully q uipp d i n q uipm n coupl

" a w Th ee ma be a e we one be e a the ar the ea . m de of ood . e t th y m d of do l rods or of rods , to us d i n pl cing p on b m lVith the a at a a nd a the end w a w a e e e ee e . , h rd i re. N ails h v som tim s b n us d ch in h nd t king hich

2 2 — Wa ead e w h Ca emo ed Fig . rp Spr r it p R v 22 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

a nd D . B th Th y so doing e cross is reta ined . e rod may now be e the wa ea ti d to rp b m . A provision is a lways m ade

. h l i for this tying . I n t e o d col on al looms hol es ar e bored i , ; ' the same is th we e e h e e . w t e D a tru of S dish typ , hil nish looms h ave a groove plough ed i n the bea m from end to end into which a smooth wooden or m eta l stick is pl aced h h to hold t e wa rp to t e beam .

F the t the e e the ea e e: rom fron of loom r mov b t r, som e a e the a e the ea t ea and the tim s c ll d b tt n , br s b m h arness

2 0 . a e e e Fig . Th is m k s a fr e op ning from the fron t to th e

wa rp beam . 2 3— e h o-d of ee o Fig . M t K ping Cr ss Tie h w Fi 2 he t e rod sho n in g . 3 to t w arp beam with w e h N t e ee was be wee D and E a o . 1 2 w e . a e the a the ea h n on r l t n , push rod th rough blocking t in This f st ns ch in to b m , “ ” the e e A Fi e a m a h e a 2 3 . h a be e t e a e e op ning m rk d , g. Untie t e cord wh ich but i n ord r th t i t y pl c d on b m v nly the e d the and a w e a the e e o ea be e the wa e h l cross llo i t to r m in on oth r sid of gr ups of thr d must distribut d in rp spr ader . th w i a e the ea e e th n e e ea as B F . 2 3 . Tie the e e a a d a e e cross d th r ds , sho n i n , g nds P l c spr d r und r ch in on l v l with h wa ea h the to the th e t e . t e ea e o of cord rod, rping b m To hol d spr d r in this p sition i t

2 4— ead e in ace on oom Fig . Spr r Pl L USIN GT HE SPREADER 23 ma be e to the a the ma be y ti d uprigh t p rts of loom , or i t y

i . e two e one at ea s e the . F h ld by p rsons , ch id of loom g

-JT 24 shows the spread er in pl aces With the top of t he spreader removed the groups of threa d may now be dis e S e e e ar e 52 8 tributed i n th ir regul a r ord er . inc th r

' ' ea al and e ea in each e e w thr ds i n l igh t th r ds group , th r ill

‘ be e a T e e ar e be 2 1 ea to ea x ctly 66 groups . h r to thr ds ch mea a ee “of e r ea inch . This ns th t th r groups igh t th ds m ust he be a h w ee a e .t pl ced to t e inch . This ill occupy thr sp c s on sp r ead er.

By m eans of th e cross the groups of thread , may be

' ' used in th ei r regul a r ord er and pl aced in the spaces of the

ea e W e e e the ca a e and spr d r . h n this i s compl t d p i s pl c d i 2 6— Wa s bu ed F g . rp Di tri t a e e and the wa ea be ea e . f st n d , rp is r dy to b m d One p erson holds the"chain and the oth er turns the ' La in S ck ea lacin a e one the e at the end ying ti s b m , by p g p g i nto of hol s of

the ea as w at A Fi . 2 4 . As the wa e w the ea b m , sho n , g rp is b ing ound on to b m , th i n strips of wood abou t i n thickn ess ar e l aid on the b ea m for th wa u e e the becom e rp to wind o . Thi s pr v n ts wa rp from ing t a ngl ed a nd also keeps the wa r p even across the entire

ea S as ar e e the t a e ar e b m . trips such us d i n bot om of sh d s

Aftcr ﬁ e a wa ar e good for this purpose. four or v y rds of rp h ‘ w t e ea la e . ound on to b m , y i n mor strips

A ta ma be a e the ea e as w s nd y m d to hold spr d r, sho n w h A i 2 5 . Fi . 2 6 t e wa te . e i n F g . g sho s rp distribu d ft r

the wa 1 te the ca a e holdinw the rp i s dist ibu d p is pl c d , thus th 1 ead s u 1 el The g1 oups of s c y i n th ei 1 prop er sp ac es . e_ s 1 eader wa and all ma now be t1 ansfe1 r ed the p , rp , y to

— wa1 ma e on e 2 5 a d to o d eade 10 0 111 and th e b as a e e . Fig . St n H l Spr r , p y pu t bov d scrib d " 2 4 FO O T-POWER LOOM WEAVING

e a the a e e a e e a e te of x ctly s m siz , h ddl fr m is construc d

a t 1 2 e es es w Fi . bou inch s by inch by 3 inch , sho n i n g 2 e r A 9 . The a e e e a b and (1 . p gs numb r d , , c bou t from each end a peg is pl aced and i n th e center two p egs

ar e a e one a a Fi . 30 . The e be pl c d inch p rt , g p gs sh ould rounded at the top and well sand ed to m ake th em p erfec tly

o a the e e off ea . sm oth , thus c using h ddl s to slip sily

' The ordinar y four - ply c arp et th rea d is a fairly good e e e a material to be used i n h eddles . Som tim s lin n th re d is e and e e a a w e a e e e us d som tim s h rd t ist d cotton , c ll d s in

- . 2 7 Lease Rods in ace Fig Pl w e e ﬁsh e is e . The w e t in , us d in n ts , u tiliz d t in is cut long

e o e a it ma be e a a Fi . 3 0 . nough in rd r th t y loop d round , g The ea e the e end the b m is turn d until oth r of cha in i n c The e r e T e a knot at b a d a nother as shown in . nds a wa ea e . a e be a e the wa “ ” or rp is r ch d C r should t k n to hold rp F 2 5 ma be e e e r emov th en ti ed at d . rom 5 to 0 y ti d b for ﬁr ml w e the w e. The a e s y hil inding is don ch i n unrav ls a e e be as a e e ing th em from the p gs . Th re must m ny h ddl s it w th e ea . W e the n is ound on to b m h n opposite e d is th He e d the as th ere ar e th reads in e warp . ddl s foun i n reach ed the crosswh ich was so c arefully gua rded at the e e e ma be e e . m ar ket ar e m ade of wir . Th s y succ ssfully us d “ e A and ea e p gs , B O is r ch d . Into th ese op enings the lease ar e a e w Fi as 2 7 . rods pl c d , sho n in g .

' The wa ea e ma now e rp spr d r y be r moved .

Late the oo ar e a the e in r l ps cut , c using nds to h ang ea h w Fi t e oo as . 2 8 . e e m e st d of l p , sho n in g Th s ends ay b e in e a e e e em ti d bunch s i n loos knot, thus pr v nting th from losing thei r pl aces in passing under and over the l ease

Fi . 3 1 . rods , g

Knotting th e Heddles

The wa a e the ea no e e neces rp pl c d on b m , i t w b com s ar e the e e ea e s e s y to consid r knotting of h ddl s or l sh s , a th y

— L0 0 an n e ease ods ar e e e a e . e a ea e e ma be . 2 8 s som tim s c ll d I n ord r th t ch h ddl y Fig p , H gi g Ov r L R

26 FOOTL POWER LO OM WVEAVI NG

32 — Th ead n th e eddl es Fig . r i g H THREADI NG THE LOOM 27

Threading th e Loom

The a e two ets e e one e h rn ss consists of s of h ddl s , di r c t w l i 3 1 . The ea a the e as F . y b ck of oth r, sho n i n g th r ding th ﬁr s w b a wea as ma be of e t loom il l e for pl in ving, such y

Th n ho h ha s e . e o e w to ea t us d in rugs , is th r d e loom com for tabl ea e e the a e as w y s t d hims lf i n fron t of h rn ss , sho n i n

Fi 32 . F a e e the e a . g . irst h ddl on fron t sticks is push d long The ﬁ r st thread is pick ed up and the end is thread ed e e through the eye l eft for this p urpose in the h eddle. A h ddl i s now tak en from the b ack sticks and the second threa d is

h h e e A e e picked up and pl aced i n t e eye of t e h ddl . ft r b ing e an e e e the threa ded it i s push d along, oth r h ddl from front e and the ea sticks is pick d out , th ird thr d is pu t through now e a and a e e the the op ening . I t is push d long h ddl from

“ back sticks is picked out and th read ed with the fourth th read .

Fi 34— e o g . R ed P sition Threading 33— Th eed Fig . e R

is e all ea a e ee e . and 1 9 one a e and the e e the ea e This continu d until thr ds h v b n us d , p ssing ov r oth r und r l s rods , The heddles be a e the ha ea one e ar e ea e e e must so pl c d on sticks t t ch th y thr d d i n th i r r gul a r order . ma be e a w e e e e an of the ea i the e e the eate a e as y slipp d long ithout int rf r nc from y Th r d ng h ddl s is of gr st import nc , e W e ea a e and e the ea e one a oth rs . h n four th r ds p ss ov r und r l s m ist ke will th row ou t the whol e succ ession of rem ain

’ at one e the ea be a e in e r e th rods tim thr ds shoul d t k n th ir g i ng th reads . If e h ed dles ar e of string the th reading

- a e as ea as e. F ea ma be e w the ﬁn er s the e e ar e ul r ord r n rly possibl our thr ds going y don ith g only , bu t if h ddl s

‘ eith er over or und er ar e thread ed b efore taking the n ext of Wl l‘ e it will require ah eddl e h oo k to draw the threads ~ ’ th ea ar e o e a s shown F . 1 8 h four . If e th r ds cr ss d , i n igs through t e eyes . 28 FOOT- POWER LO OM WEAVI NG

The Reed

- The reed is the long comb like piece of. app a ra tus which nts in the beater or batten and aids in pushing or pressing h i h e the woo e e F . T e a t e a 33 . f in its prop r pl c , g sp c s in “ ” reed ar e usu ally term ed d ents .

Re r e e e e a e . For a a ds sold by numb r inst nc , numb r 1 2 reed m ea ns th at th ere ar e 1 2 op enings or d ents to the i e 1 ee ean e e r e 1 5 e nch . A numb r 5 r d m s th at th r a d nts to

the etc. inch , Threading the Reed

’ The threads h aving been dr awn thr ough the h eddl es ar e now rea dy to enter the dents of the reed and must a a e e e e The ea not g in ent r in th i r r gul ar ord r . th r ds must be allowed n e a wea to cross o e anoth r . I n ordin ry rug ving on e e e To the ee e threa d nt rs ach dent . do this r d is hung

t the a e as w Fi . 34 . B ea j us i n fron t of h rn ss , sho n i n g y m ns of a reed hook the threads ar e drawn th rough the dents

e e a e a e ei a e to use ea e . i n th i r r gul r ord r, c r b ng t k n ch d nt 35— ee d oo Fig . R H ks If a selvage is desired two threads at one time ar e drawn through the ﬁr st four and the l ast fou r dents of the reed . push ed into the dent from above, and the th rea d may be ‘ The ee - e e t a the be w e a e th e r d is oft n long r h n cloth to ov n is pl c d on e r ed in such a position as to be d r a wn w e w e e a to a e the ea w e the is e id ; h n this is tru , pl n h v thr ds occupy through h n hook pull d from below. After a the e e a the ee ea the at ea end . e ea ha c nt r p rt of r d , l ving surplus ch numb r of th r ds s been entered th ey ar e ti ed into a e o b e h wea be a e e t e e a . e a a for a e as the If singl d nt sh uld omitt d v c nnot bunch This is don p rti lly s f ty, reed may

e e . The ee ma be a e a e e e wa o and the ﬂ oor p rf c t r d h ook y m d of pi c of thi n slip in som y from its p si tion drop to , i F 5 . h the w d as w . 3 ea t e ee oo , sho n in g I n thr ding r d thus causing the th reads to slip from the dents . e the e ts e w cat the ac h hook is push d through d n from b lo , ching Pl ing t e Reed wa I e ea and aw w the e . For e e r ea n the a e and ee thr d dr ing i t do n rd through op ning ; conv ni nc in th di g, h rn ss r d the wo e as w Fi . 35 e ma be ar e e to the wa ea as t i the od n hook sho n in g is us d , i t y hung clos rp b m , in his posit on , THREADIN G THE LO OM 2 9

— Fig . 36 L oom Ready Ty ing

wea e can sit a a e w e the e u in e a e the a te as wn in v r in comfort bl position hil doing re d p t its prop r pl c i n b t n , sho ea thr ding . i 6 . F g. 3 ” The ea a ee e e the “ Thl r e s th r ding h ving b n compl t d h a rn ess and The loom is now r eady to be ti ed up. S p oc s ee ar e w “ b a . Th r d rough t for rd e batte n is hung and the is c alled gating the loom s 3 0 FO OT- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

Tying the Loom

’ B efore beginning the tying - up proc ess i t is of great

i ' importa nce th a t the weaver under stand some simpl e way

' a t as the e t in u e e a of using slipkno , proc ss of y g p r quir s i e grea t deal of adj usting . I t is usual to t e up with doubl

as t e e a wa e a e e e in a . two cords , h s l ys t rmin t i th r loop or

8 — Fi Fig . 3 rst Step M aking Loop Slip Knot

F i 8 9 — oo om l e ed g . L p C p t

e w ar e ece a the a a e nds, both of hich n ss ry for dj ust bl slip The the a e at the end the knot . loop for slipknot is m d of

e as h w at A Fi . 3 7 . The ﬁn er and loop d cord , s o n , g g thumb “ ” i e nd a the e at A F . 38 . The r ach up a gr sp doubl cord , g double cord is now d rawn through the op ening m a rked “ ” w Fi 3 9 . the a e B s . , a sho n in g Th rough loop thus m d i A th t e the ar e a e Fi . 4 0 . F . 3 7 e wo nds of cord p ss d , g g , , B C and D show in th e succ essive steps the way the knot _ ,

is m ad e. A shows simply the l oop and ends ;

' — 3 e h w the e aw the oo . Fig . 7 M t od ot Tying Sl ip Knot B sho s nds dr n through l p TY IN G THE LO OM

C shows the ends d rawn th rough the 10 0 1) and a singl e knot tie d wi th th em . D sh ows the singl e knot ti ed and d rawn down to the

‘ the above e o the ma By using m th d for tying, cords y h iu llin e e e as t e a e ma be. B be shorten d or l ength n d , c s y y l g the two ends of the singl e knot the l a tte r i s drawn close 4 0— Two Ends C ord Placed Loop w be a the w not e to the loo p . I t ill found th t knot ill giv

wa a e wh a the we the ma be . y no m tt r t igh t of pull y If e t a e a w one e a to one e roll r j us bov , llo ing hors to h ng sid n h the cord is to be l ength ene d the knot is loosen ed a d t e a nd o ne the e Two e e e e ar e e to oth r . oth r h ddl h ors s ti d

a e d. n th a th n th cord is dj ust a d h ung in e s m e way a t e oth er e d of e roll er .

d i 0 w e h ﬁ ni h The a e w a e the e d e an F . 2 e t e s ed . h rn ss , hich i s m d up of h dl s g sho s h ddl sticks h ung i n loom ed e a e the hea e and d ar e e the e the e e e to h dl sticks , h ngs j ust b h ind t r i s sus Cor s ti d from nds of h ddl hors s h e e ea e e th ed t e e e e . h e F the w p end d by tying e h dl e sticks to h ddl hors s t e top h ddl e s ticks . rom c nt r of ch lo r

e e n n e 1 2 t e . The The h eddl e hors s a r e ti d o e to one e d of a pi ec h eddl e stick a loop of N o . blocking cord i s i d

i 4 1 i h e h e e e o f 1 6 and one the e . F . s t e e the e t e a th No . blocking cord to oth r g nds of cord xt nding from tr dl s slip i nto

d e Th e w e the e e d the e e a s w Fi . awi a e e . e dr ng of h dl hors rop i s th ro n ov r loop , xt n ing from h ddl sticks , sh o n i n g

— o se Fig . 41 Hcddle H r s 32 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

treadle and a pplying the pressure to the oth er treadl e the

e th ea aw a oth r h alf of e th r ds is dr n downw rd .

The Cloth B eam The ends dra wn through the reed ar e now h anging e h e loosely or ti d in bunch es in t e front of the reed . Th es

ends m ust. i n som e way be conn ected with the cloth b eam

i H e ee e o the e . ( F g . ol s h ave b n bor d thr ugh cloth b am T 1 2 a . hrough th ese hol es the N o . blocking cord is dr wn

4 3— eth od e a in o h eam Fig . M Pr p r g Cl t B

B eginning at the righ t of th e cloth beam one h ﬁ r Th end of the cord th rough t e st op ening . e oth er end

t h end a w as as th e ee . is ti ed o t e of rod , hich is long r d ( These rods were m entioned earlier in the process of On was e a e the wa the warping . e us d i n f st ning rp to

ea . 42 — e h od T e b m ) Fig . M t ying H ddl e Sti cks to Treadles a the e e w The cord is now th re ded th rough n xt hol , hich

h ea and e e o . 3 . 42 W e es in a . 2 t e N . h n pr sure ( th is c ase the foot ) isapplied to is No in cl oth b m , th n through hol

. nd o . 3 n the wee . 2 a a d treadl e the p a rt of the h arness tied to tha t p articul ar A long loop is l eft b et n N o N The now ea e t a h ea he it. readle dr ws t e th r ds downwa rd . Upon rel easing this rod is pus d th rough cord i s thr d d

34 FOO T- POWER LO OM WEAVING

a e e a e - a a e simply pi c of qu rt r inch b ss , popl r , or pin , cut

Fi . 4 ﬁ ner a e al as e e e as shown in g 7 . If m t ri s such m rc riz d ar e e a e a the one w cottons us d , sh uttl simil r to sho n i n i 4 e 6 . F g . is us d Th e Sm all Shuttle

' ‘ The e e w n 11 se r inci all the a b ginn r ill , o doubt, p p y co rs er m a teri als for th e woof and will therefor use the , e, . , i n i e as F 4 6 a d F . 4 sh uttl sh own i n g . g 6a . h Fi 4 T e sh uttl e shown in g . 6 a is so construc ted a s to

e 1 0 1 2 - a e e w e e admit of a pi ce of or g ug wir . This ire xt nds en w e a the e the e the e e l gth is cross insid of op ning, nds b ing n n e o two e e o e ea e d the O e . forc d int littl hol s , in ch of p ning

' ne the e small s r in ea e o of hol s , p g is conc l d

— — . 46 Sm a11 h u l e . 4 7 h u e c Fig . S tt Fig S ttl Sti k

wire is put in pl ace v ery much a bobbin is pl ac ed i nto i 4 F . 7 w the shuttl e of a s ewing m achin e. g sho s a sh uttl e

stick . Fi 45— Th e h ed g . S TI —I E SMALL SHUTTLE

~— « ~- 1 g 1

5 x 1 .on n u .

4 6 — Wo in aw n of mal h u l e Fig . a rk g Dr i g S l S tt

Bobbin Winder

4 w e e Fig . 8 sho s a bobbin wi nd er extensiv ly us d i n wa a nd S we e S a w e a r e e Nor y d n . m l l ood n spools slipp d

the a the w e a e e a e ma be on to sh ft of ind r, or pi c of p p r y

h w a e a the a The end the ea tig tly r pp d round sh ft . of thr d B to be wound is ca ugh t in the wrapping of the pap er . y m eans of the sm all crank the wh eel is turn ed and the

e w th e The bo thr ad is ound on e spool or p ap r . bbi n i s

wa th e m ade i n this y . If e bobbin wind r a s shown above

a a a e a w ee ma be e e ( i s not v i l bl , spinning h l y quipp d to l o

49 — nn n Wh eel obb n W d e Fig . Spi i g B i in r

the work . A pl ug with a n extension may be forced into

the e Fi 4 th a e a s w . 9 . Th e spindl , sho n i n g e spool or p p r ma be w ‘u e a e e and the w ee ma y pp d roun d th is xt nsion , h l y

h e e turn ed j us t as wh n spinning .

Th e T emple

As the wea e w be a e e vi ng con tinu s , it ill found th t th r “ i s a t end ency in the fabric to dra w in na rrower th an “ 4 8 — obb W nde th e e the wa th eed t n w B in i r e nt ring of rp i n e r . e this dra ing ’ 3 6 FO O T- POWER LO OM HEAVZ NG

Fi 50— Wo n win Tem g . rki g Dra g ple

METALBAND

CO MMONTENPENNY NAIL TO BE US ED AS PI N

— — m 1e ened Fi 51 Tem 1e osed Fi . 52 T e g . p Cl g p Op THE TEMPLE 37

” ih e e ea e ma be e e d the b com s notic bl , it y corr ct by using templ e. 50 Fi . The templ e is ver y simpl e i n its construction . g h A h ea shows t e working drawing . t t e broad ends of ch

t he a 1 6 - a e a ar e e and the of p rts , or g ug br ds driv n i n ﬁl ff o ea e te a the a ea ar e o . F r a h ds e d h vi r m ri l , br ds should

- be of 1 2 or 1 4 gauge. The p arts wh en j oined togeth er ar e for the purpose the e e th e a e a e w e the of holding ou t dg s of m t ri l b ing ov n , to The ea a the e the required width . m ns of dj usting l ngth of

e i ‘ h r e r w F 5 1 an i . 2 . T e a a t mpl e a e sho n i n g . d F g 5 p rts e e e w a w e w e h ld tog th r by a i r e n il or ood n pin , hich is forc d into the hol es bored th r n the sides of the p a rts . The pin is ﬁ r st inserted and the t empl e pl aced on the a a e the ee w th e ﬁled t cloth short dist nc from r d , ith poin s

the a a the e e the a e a as w of br ds c tch ing dg s of m t ri l , sho n i 2 t m l 5 . e th e e i e in F g . Wh n e p s p ress d down i n th is posi Th a w e th e e e the . e tion , i t ill forc out dg s of cloth sm ll

eta a w ﬁts e - e a it m l b nd hich clos ly , is mov d long so holds t A e e to he two p arts together . ft r w aving from four six

e the e e e a a is a few e i nch s , t mpl i s mov d so i t g i n i nch s from h t e reed . e th e me a a the a ts ma w To mov , sl ip t l b nd so p r y s ing th ee on e pin and proc d as above d es cribed .

T h e Ree l A grea t m any of the d ifferen t threads used i n weav be a e e e h e ing must purch s d i n sk ins . This fact m ak s t e re l

’ a e a e e a the e ma lmost indisp ns bl , i n ord r th t sk ins y con veniently b e m ad e i nto bobbins .

53 — a o f ee s Fig . 7 P ir R l 38 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

' 54 — Wo in- aw n of eel Fig . rk g Dr i g R THE REEL OR S WI FT

i w a ee e a F . 53 a a g sho s p i r of r l s , mount d on st nd in such a m ann er th a t the distanc e be tween th em can be r eg l te i w h u F . 4 t w d a a d . g 5 sho s e orking rawing of a p ir of

ee w e e a the the a r ls . I t ill be obs rv d th t uprigh t of st nd h The has a slot cu t i n i t for t e great er p a rt of its l ength .

ee e e a e a e a nd ma be ﬁ xed the r ls r volve on long t d xl s , y i n

at a n e ea a ew and a . slot y h ight , by m ns of scr coll r This

' e iﬁ r n - m akes i t possibl e to adj ust th m to ( l e c t sized sk eins .

i 55 w a he ee w ma be F g . sho s not r kind of r l hich y

a e a e e a n e a and ma f sten d to a t bl e. I t op ns lik umbr ll y e The a e be adj ust ed to sk ins of va rious sizes . sm l l sk i n h e allows only a p a rti al Opening of th e reel . T e sk in is

h e The ee a e men pl aced over t e reel whil e clos d. r l bov ti oned is often c alled a s wift .

55— A ee or w Fig . R l S ift ' Rag Rugs as possibl e the founda tion str ip j ust beaten may again be h e a I n weaving r ag rugs th e l oom must be threaded with pushed out into t e sh d so th t it may ea sily be wrapp e d

- h i w t e e the e . a a e wa we . e ea the . four ply c rp t rp , t lv th r ds to inch This ith color us d i n d s gn a a e 1 2 ee S e the e e a A e the e s a e ee w a e a c lls for numb r r d . inc proc ss of pr p ring ft r color d strip h v b n r pp d round the has a ea een e e de a the weav the foundat r the ea e aw wa and loom lr dy b d scrib d i n t il , , h t r is dr n for rd e i e e the to w the the e ing may at once b g n . pr ss s ion color ith strip i n d sign 4

e a e. Figur s 5 6 and 57 showwh at may be done with ra gs . into pl c e a i e es wa i e t n i F . The d esign is k p t in s raigh t a d unbroken l n es . igs This proc ss is most nt r ting y of introduc ng

h a e a r e . 58 and 59 showwha t may be don e by l aying straigh t piec es color wh en t e coarser m t ri ls a e us d e e e e o w bet h h a , of cloth to cover t e color used i n t e bo dy p rt . In this B for b ginning to d sign for lo m ork, i t is ter e a e the oo and w a e a e the e n a e a e e . c s d sig i s lso k pt i n str ight , unbrok n lin s to op r t l m kno j ust littl of its pos i l i XVhen a e the e a e ar e The m aterial used in the l igh t Colored rugs i s unbl eached s bi it es . this pl n is pursu d d signs m d w e the l e e a r e e ﬂ an a e as the e a w w a e and w muslin , hil co or d bord rs of bl u outing us bl , op r tor kno s h t is possibl ill n The a D e a and ea e e a . el . d rk rug is of utch blu c lico unbl ch d d sign ccordingly

Plaids

i a Sh wn F u e 58 and 59 Introduc ng Color s o in ig r s Figure 6 0 shows a seri es of simpl e yet eifective pl aids

- w e a two a e . ee The cloth used for the founda tion is drawn through which may be ov n on h rn ss loom In r ling

e The hea e e the t th e wa a a e a e ea ea the sh ed and bea t n . ting pr ss s strip of clo h rp for pl ids , c rt in numb r of thr ds of ch W e the e e W the ea aw the ar e ee e a the e e a . tog th r . ithout crossi ng th r ds , dr in short color r l d ccording to d sir d pl id h n e d and the 11 ai a e the 11 ar pi eces to be used for the design and wrap th em around reeling is compl te p is pl c d on p

bea111 it 11 11] be a the wa a . th e e the a . a e as ea found th t rp is i n b nds of color color us d for found tion To m k this sy , _

u " ‘ f 4 2 1 FO O T- P OWER LO OM lVEAVI NG

If the a rticl e to be woven is to be about 2 2 inch es wide

‘ and ther e ar e to be 2 0 ea the w e e thr ds to inch , i t ill r q uir ’ ' 4 56 ea be ee e n 2 4 e the thr ds to r l d , i cluding th r ads for

e a e . v ea ar e ee e at a. e w r e s lv g s four th r ds r l d tim , it il l qui re groups of four th reads to make the required Th n e . e e e e numb r l ngth d p ds upon the wea ver . Having pl ac ed the h eddl es 0 11 the h eddle sticks and the wa o n the beam ' the w e ea the rp , ork r is r dy to do w i h ea . S e n 32 t e a e ea as i F . w thr ding t d sho n g , ith p tt rn as w Fi 6 1 a t a the w ea sho n i n g . h nd , ork of thr ding i s e b gu n . I t mus t be rem embered th a t the sets of h eddl es ar e

e th h i th e e e f e t e a . a s e numb r d rom front to b ck Th t , h ddl the w e a r e e 1 th e e sticks j ust in front of ork r numb r , n xt e 2 the e e 3 and the a e e numb r , n xt numb r , f rth st numb r h e h e 1 e T e r ow of squ a r s i n t e p a tt rn m arked N o . indicat s th a t all the threads i n this r ow m ust be th read ed in th ei r

h e ‘ Th e e t e 0 11 he dle ticks 1 . ord r th rough e h ddl s d s No . 0

“ e th e r o 2 a e ha e e squ a r s i n e p a tt rn in w N o . indic t t t th s th reads ar e threa ded in th eir ord er through the h eddles on n the second p ai r of h eddle sticks . Three a d four follow i n the sam e m ann er B eginning asThread e at th the a e th e fir st ea B ginning e righ t of p tt rn , thr d of the selvage i s indic a t ed by a d a rk squ a re in the fou r th r ow ea a the fi r st ea a es the . This m ns th t thr d p ss through eye of the fi r st h eddl e on the b ack or fou rth r ow of h eddl es .

' e e ea e it e a and the ne This h ddl th r d d , is push d long xt a i The e ea the e threa d is taken c re o . n xt thr d is on s cond

i 60— a ds F g . Pl i ’ THREADI NG. A PATTERN 4 3

’ — i 6 1 M0 nk e . a of a e n F g . s B lt Dr ft P tt r

r ow and a e 4 e e e the e e the fir st e e the the two e a e 32 a e a . is p ss d th rough y of h ddl on for s lv g s , th r ds r m i n If i t r qui r s e of e a e . e e now e 3 6 ea h ea the a e e 432 ea w s cond p i r h ddl sticks This h ddl is push d thr ds to t r d p tt rn onc , th r ds ill a and the ea a e e e h e we e The e a t e a e . long th ird th r d is c r d for . third thr ad r p t p tt rn t lv tim s passes th rough the fi r st h eddl e 0 11 the th ird p a ir of h eddle The fir s t th read of the p attern app ea rs on the fourth

' and e al o The r o e e th e h sticks is push d ng . fourth threa d p asses or back w of h ddl s ; e s cond th read i s on t e thi rd

h h ﬁ r - t e e e t e st e e 0 11 the ﬁ r st a r ow etc. e u ea ea a e the th rough y of h ddl p ir of , Continu ntil ch thr d ind ic t d by

’ ‘

e e and e a . The ﬁfth ea a e a s ua r es is ea e . e e the a e h ddl sticks is push d long thr d p ss s d rk q th r d d Wh n th is is don , p tt rn

the e e the e e e th ha bee e ea e d e a h e w e s . Go t e th rough y of s cond h ddl on fourth r ow. n r p t onc b ck to b ginning, hich is

e th a h r ea th r e Thi s is continu d until e p rt of the pa ttern m a rked t e ﬁ s t th r d on e fourth ow after the selva g . I n

e a e e e . Th e e n e a e ea e b ut e a t wa ea the a we e e . W e s lv g is compl t d s lv g is thr d d onc , this y th r d p tt rn t lv tim s h this is the e and a t the end es e e e e e ar e twely e ea e t the e a e b gi nning , unl s oth rwis indic ated . don , th r stil l thr ds l f for s lv g , The th reading of the rea l p a ttern begins a fter the wh ich i s th read ed the sam e as the selvage at the righ t or

e ha ee ea e d . a e s . e e s lv g b n th r d Upon inv stiga tion it wi ll be b ginning . a 3 ea a on 2 w a e wa e e the a e found th t 6 th r ds m ke e repea t of the p a ttern ; Fig . 6 sho s noth r y of xpr ssing p tt rn

i 1 r e F . . e e a e 456 a l n e i 1 e r e e e wa w 6 6 . e a e a g If th r thr ds i n a l a d 2 4 ar e us d shown i n F g . Th r s v r l oth r ys of ri ting

S e l v a

' — 62 on s e . A o h e Wa of r a a e n Fig . M k B lt n t r y D fting P tt r 44 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVING

at e all w w be e o e the aw 2 8 e the ea e a e p t rns , of h ich i ll giv n i n rd r th a t dr n is i nch s long, i t is of gr t st import nc weaver may understand and m ak e use of p a tterns found that the ﬁr st threa d is drawn through the d en t th ree h h n h e t e e d t e ee . A e ll th e i n va rious books on t e subj ect. inch s from right of r d ft r a e th r ads

i 1 we e w the r e a e ee aw the e ee e ar e e at F . 6 wa a e a e w h v b n d r n through d nts, thr inch s l ft g , ho v r, sho s y p tt rns ritt n

the e end the ee . The e now ar e e the in textil e schools . l ft of r d nds ti d to rod ' i e 3 . which l ea d s to the cloth b am the sam as in F . 6 , i g Threading th e Reed T the He e S ck Th e threads having b een drawn through the h eddl es ying ddl ti s th e a e th i h e e a e r e no e e F . 2 w t th ed e e T o in ord r i ndic t d by p tt rn a w r ady to b g 0 sho s e position of e h dl hors s . w w th e th a e e ee A 2 0 ee e e e ar e e e e w a e e . 1 2 dr n through d nts of r d . No . r d i s h ddl hors s ti d tog th r ith pi c of No block

' a w Fi 4 NVith h s . 3 . w o e t e e a ee a w . The is e the hung sho n in g r d hook, s sho n ing cord cord thro n ov r r ll r or pull y

Fi . 35 the ea ar e aw the ee e a e ea one e e e a t one e a nd one at in g , thr ds dr n through r d in th i r bov , l ving h ddl h ors sid

e a e as e e e e . 2 0 . the e as w Fi . r gul r ord r b for d scrib d oth r, sho n in g

a e the e a e two ea th e r e e e r e e the - e e m k s lv g , thr ds of e s lvage a The upp r h ddl e sticks a ti d to scroll lik nds _To aw e th ﬁ n o a e r st e . e th e the e e e o e ea . To a e dr n th r ugh ch of six d nts This us s of h ddl hors s , to ch do this t k four we e ea h e e e t e a e as n h h a a we e e the e e . t lv thr ds of s lv g shown i t e p a ttern . h ed dl es t e s m e s r us d on h ddl sticks Th s the e 2 0 ee e ea ea the al n e e one end the ﬁ r st e e If numb r r d is us d , ch thr d of ar e looped l at o e tim ov r of h ddl

’ a e a e o a e the e a e is a a e a one at the e d the p tt rn p ss s thr ugh d n t until s lv g g in stick . This is don by pl cing loop n ot

r ea e w e wo ea a e h e s w at A Fi . t u a e t. t e e a ch d , h n th r ds p ss thro gh ch d n h eddle to one side of h ddl stick , sho n , g

2 e e the e e ar e a e a . 0 e a h m 63 . The e be ad a . 1 0 ee a If No r d c nnot , N o r d y oth r nds of h ddl s pl c d th rough this h be used by pl acing four threads of the selvage through each loop and ar e drawn tightly over the h eddle stick . Wit e th e a n e h and ﬁn er a e a o th e e end d nt of e s lv ge a d two thr ads of the p a ttern through t e th umb g , m k lo p in oth r of

e a th e F . 38 and 39 . S / ach of the p a ttern d ents . the h eddl es simil r to loop i n igs lip

th - e end the e e e as Ver y often the reed has m a ny more dents th a n is r e this loop over e scroll lik of h ddl hors e e e and one e h w at B Fi . 63 . a e quir d for t e numb er of threads used in a p articul a r pat sho n , g T k four oth r h ddl s l oop end e the e e e far e the end tern . In such case c a re must be tak en to draw the threa ds ov r s con d h ddl stick nough from u e th e e - l e end th e through such dents as will bring the weaving in the center so th a t it is directly nd r oth r scroll ik of

e e as w at C Fi . 63 . th e ee . For e a e th e ﬁnished w be 22 same h eddl hors sho n , g of r d x mpl , if ork is to . , e w n th er nd a e a the e inch s ide a d e reed through which the th reads ar e With theﬁng a thumb, m k loop i n oth r TY IN G THE HEDDLE STICKS end of the h eddles and slip this loop over the oth er end of th e a w D i He e e e e s at F . 63 . h ddl hors , sho n , g ddl sticks

n 2 ar now th on e i 6 3 . 1 a d e tied to e e h eddle horse ; s e F g . Tak e fou r oth er h eddl es and loop them over the third ~ h eddl e stick the sam e dista nce from the end as the ﬁ r st was E L h e at Fi . 64 . o t e e e the e e loop d , g o p oth r nds of h ddl s

e th e - e end the e e e e as ov r scroll lik of s cond h ddl hors , i 4 i e w at F F . 6 . T he e e s sho n , g fourth h ddl s tick ti d i n the sam e way and the sam e distance from the end as the n i 4 ni e one as w at G a d H F . 6 . ﬁ shes s cond , sho n , g This Ti e h nd the tying at one end . e h ddl e sticks at t e oth er e

' e a Hcddles r e e tothe h eddle hors s in the s m e way. a us d to tie th e h eddl e sticks to the h eddl e horses b ec ause th ey ar e all exactly the sam e l ength . This is of grea t importance .

Tying Heddle Sticks to Treadl es

ee the e e e e and all e e tie To k p h ddl sticks v n tog th r , e e n F the e e ea th em togeth r a t ea ch upp r e d . rom c nt r of ch

we ed e tie a of No . 1 2 as lo r h dl stick , loop blocking cord

i 3 7 . w at A F . sho n , g 1 2 From each treadl e al low two ends of No . blocking

e e wa . e a t the tie the cord to xt nd up rd B ginning righ t , ﬁr st treadl e to the ﬁr st lower h eddl e stick ; the second . treadle to the s econd h e ddl e stick : I h the sam e way tie

3 and 4 . be the ea e e 1 This n um rs tr dl s from righ t to l ft ,

now ea . 2 3 4 . The w , , loom is r dy for ork

63 . 64 Fig . Fig We av ing th e Patt ern

e e e wea e the a e e e e T i h e edd e c B for b ginning to v p tt rn , xp rim n t y ng t H l Sti k s

e a ea e e w e 1 by pressing down c rt in tr dl s . Pr ss do n treadl s 4 6 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

e a er e w n 2 h a e w 3 and 4 . e w as a wea e wee a d at t e s m e tim . P r ss do n Pr ss do n p tt n bord rs ith m uch pl in ving i n b t n

1 and 3 by pl acing one foot on 1 and the other on 3 . a s is d esi red .

w be a 1 and 2 w e \ e a e wea - e w 2 and 4 . V th Pr ss do n I t il l found th t , h n h n doing p tt rn ving e th read used i n the

w a n the a e as w at A a e h be a t ea s ea h e e e o e a a as t e wa . p r ss d do n , m k p rt of p t t rn, sh o n , p tt rn s ould l st h vy rp

i 65 . I F Q e e a e ea a a e the wea F g . Q v ry p tt rn thr d th t is pl c d i n ving B e w ea e 3 and 4 the a the e e be w a a e a ea e y pr ssing do n tr dl s , p rt of th r m ust h t is c ll d binding thr d or bind r . The ea a r h a B Fi 6 5 a e. a wa w h a e w t . e e t e ee p tt rn s o n , g , is m d binding thr ds l ys put in h il f t press

ar ll h a ar e Fi . 65 . w ea e 1 a nd 3 and 2 a nd 4 e e tw a e e a . w e e Th s o ch ng s t t found in g do n tr dl s , I t ill b rem m

h A he e a r e ewe ea a w C Fi . 65 t e a e as e e e e t o e ea e a a e the , g , is s m , only t r f r thr ds b r d th t it is th s s ts of tr dl s th t m k

' i 6 5 the a e as B a nd E D F . a a ea e . e in wea C . w us d ving , g , is s m ; , pl in or t bby v

i the a e as A . Let us e a e e n ea e he F . 65 t g , is s m suppos th t v ryth i g is r dy to b gin

w en ea e 1 and 3 we e e e e a n r . a e 1 d 3 a e e e I t was found th a t h tr dl s r pr ss d a ctu a l weaving . Tr dl s pr ss d down at _ down ex actly one- h alf of the th reads were drawn the sam e tim e and the sh uttl e is p assed from th e right

n w esse d w the e a the h e th e Wh en 2 a d 4 ere pr do n oth r h lf of th rough t e sh d to e l ft .

7 1 1 1 we e a w 110 1 . threa ds r dr n Treadl es 2 and 4 are n ext pressed down and the sh ut tle is pa ssed th rough the shed from the l eft to the righ t

In this way as muc h pl ain weaving may be. don e as i s

d esired . tabl u nner be a e a ﬁve e If a ew is to m d , bout inch s of pl ain weaving i n the begi nning a r e su ﬁieient before in

e tr oducing the p att rn .

w Fi . 6 5 T o Make . the Border as Sho n in g

there n1 ust a wa b e a When weaving a p a ttern \ l ys

binder woven i n every tiin e a p att ern threa d is woven . I t 65— e n Wo en . a Fig P tt r v “ I t is this binder th a t h olds the p attern threa d in pl ac e.

wa we a e th e e ﬁner hrea a a Any amount of pl ain weaving may be don e by press is a l ys ll to h v bi nd r of t d th n th t ea e a a e the a e e a e 1 nd 3 a t the a e e and 2 and used in the pl ai n w v , or th n th t us d in p tt rn , i ng down al t rn t ly a s m tim ,

e o . e e a e as the p a ttern th reads may be more closely bea t n t gether e. e 4 at th e sa m e tim This b ing tru , it is possibl to pl c MAKING BORDERS 4 7

The sh uttl e containing the th read to be used for the i now h binder s at t e righ t . Treadl es 1 and 2 a r e pressed down a t the sam e tim e and a e ea a e h e W e a p tt rn thr d p ss d th rough t e sh d . h n th is is b eaten in plaeegtr ea dles 1 and 3 a r e p ressed down and ea e 1 a bind er th read is p a ssed th rough the sh ed . Tr dl s and 2 ar e again pressed down and a p a ttern th rea d p asse d

th e ea e 2 and 4 r n e e w th rough e sh d . Tr dl s a e ow pr ss d do n

n e th es 1 and 2 a d a bind er p a ss s th rough e sh ed . Pr s e ea n n th aga in for the p a tt rn th r d a d 1 a d 3 for e bind er .

1 n 2 a a a n n 4 e a d d 2 a d the e . P r ss g in , for bind r The wea e has e e e a v r , no doubt , di scov r d by this tim th t

' the p a ttern thread may enter the sh ed from eith er the righ t or l eft whil e ca re m ust be taken to enter the binder from the sid e i t should be entered i n ord er to mak e the pl ai n

e e W the a a e be we e the w av . ith m t u r i t migh t l l to giv fol lowing direction concerning the weaving i n of the bind er : \Vh en the ﬁ r st and thi rd treadl es a r e p ressed down the

e a wa e e the a nd w e the bind r must l ys nt r from right , h n second and fourth t readles a r e pressed down the binder

e The e e w e e he enters from the l ft . b ginn r h n r tu rning to t work often ﬁnds i t diﬁieult to know which trea dl es to p ress

h ﬁr s ea ma be e e down for t e t bind er th r d . Thi s y d cid d by

e th e e the positionof the shuttl . I f e th r ad from the sh uttl i s to the righ t th en treadl es 1 and 3 ar e pressed down for ~ the ea a t the e e 2 a n 4 r e the bind er . If th r d is l ft th n d a w e e w . e w e the oo e e pr ss d do n I n oth r ords , h n righ t f t pr ss s down one of the ou tside treadles the shuttle must enter the sh ed from the righ t sid e and wh en the l eft foot presses

— — . 66 o de s 6 7 o d e s Fig B r r Fig . B r r ' 48 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

w an e ea e the e e e the e ﬁ e do n outsid tr dl sh uttl nt rs sh d from of a loom . At r st though t one is very lik ly to look upon th e e w ai h e l ft sid . This ill d t e begi nn er i n k eeping track / loom weaving as a very m ech anic al line of work beca use th e ea of binding thr d . of the fact th a t the loom is thread ed for a certai n p attern . This work may be m ad e so if the teach er c annot see be Second Ch ang e in Pattern “ yond the one l ittl e p attern for which th e loom is threaded . The e a e the a e is h w at B Fi . s cond ch ng i n p tt rn s o n , g I f we e the w u se the e e a e , ho v r, instructor ill ch ck d p p r 65 . wea e th e e To v in e p att rn threads for this ch ang , freely and h ave the pupils m ake as m any diff erent com ea e 3 and 4 ar e e ee and tr dl s e pr ss d down ea ch tim e. Thr

ma th e a w Fi . 65 as e a hi tions of e ch ang s s sho n i n g possibl , four ar e pressed down and the shu ttl e conta ining the pat grea t d eal of good may be derived from th e standpoint of e ea w th t rn th r d is th ro n through e sh ed . e n A e has a ea ee a e the d sign a d color . tt ntion l r dy b n c ll d to The e a the n e is a t the e e shuttl con t ining bi d r right , th r ' w and 6 7 . e e e es combin ations sho n in Figs . 66 Th s int r ting e ea e n r e ‘ The shu ttle at for tr dl s 1 a d 3 a e pr ssed down . e m e a e- e e a s bord rs ay be wov n into t bl runn r bord rs , b g of the righ t m eans th a t the righ t foot pressed down the righ t

a w to s cur tains etc. v rious kinds pillo p , , , - , ea e . had ee a t the lef e 2 and 4 w a e tr dl If i t b n t , th n ould h v

i 6 w a ba a w . The ma In F g . 8 is sho n g for f ncy ork ee e e w the e e w the e b n pr ss d do n , l ft foot pr ssing do n l ft

2 0 . ter ial for the pl a in p a rt is of Ecru Jap Six No . Twenty trea dle which is the outside treadle to the l eft . ea to the wer e used two ea a thr ds inch l , th r ds p ssing th rough i A 0 F . 65 the a e a s and D the a e as B . , g , is s m ; is s m

e The e a . 5 e e e . ach den t . bord r is of No m rc riz d cotton E the a e as A. is s m ’ w ba w h t me M Fig . 69 sho s a knitting g in h ic onk s hecke Pa e C d p r ed ba was w e the a e B el t threading is us . This g ov n on s m

A e th e a e w e the des w he a ft r pupils h v ork d out ign sho n in loom as was the fancy work bag . T ch nge i n d esign is Fi (35 - a t e e e a e and a e e w g , p ss to h m ch ck d p p r h v th m ork due to a ch a nge in colors and the ord er of treadling for the ff e e eombination l t ken Fi as a s a . out m ny di r nt from The a the a e. g str ipes . J p silk is s m as e. possibl W e one e ea w the e be h n b gins r lly to ork , possibiliti s Wh en this is don e the different combin a tions may be gi n to d awn . w h e t e . ov n on loom i 7 0 w a a a w e E a F g . sho s p ir of curt ins ov n of gyp ti n i 6 n Fi w F . 6 a d . 67 fe t g g sho a w such combin a ions . A e 2 0 ee e one ea a twin e. n umb r r d is us d , th r d p ssing A a a s i e A . 3 e er e e d pt tion through each (l nt . N o m rc z d cotton is us d for ’ the e w a e a a a the M There is very littl e valu e i n asking pupils to d esign bord r, hich is noth r d pt tion of onk s e h w h e e a t e ea w e The e E a w e. i n t xtil s if t y kno nothing bout r l orking B lt . bind r is gypti n t in

FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVI NG

When threading any p a ttern a lways begin at the righ t an h l eft d work toward t e .

Threading for the Rose Path

ea ﬁr . th e a e e e r Thr d st e s lv g . Th r a e but eight th reads e h i n a singl e rep eat Of the p a tt rn . T e m ateria l to be woven is 2 0 e th w ' l i nch s wide plus e idth of the se vages . e e ar e be 2 0 ea the w r e If th r to th r ds to inch , i t ill

— 7 1 os a l . a of a e n Fig . R e P t i Dr ft P tt r

e 4 00 ea i ee ea the e a e quir thr ds plus s xt n thr ds for s lv g s , a ll 4 1 e m king in a 6 thr ads .

ea ar e eele at a e w be neces If four th r ds r d tim , i t ill

' s r 1 4 a y to reel 0 groups . Since 4 00 threads ar e u sed for the p a ttern and th ere

ar e e ea ea e ea the a e ma be r e ight thr ds to ch r p t , p tt rn y

peated 50 times . The selvage is th readed the same for the Rose P a th th - ’ as was threaded for e Monk s B elt .

“ The fi r st th rea d of the p attern is drawn through the h a eye of the fir st h eddl e on t e b ck r ow. The second thread goes th rough the eye of the fir st

h eddle on the third h eddl e sticks . The third thread p asses th rough th e eye of the ﬁr st { 7 0 — A ai of Wo en u a ns ed e the e e e . Fig . P r v C rt i h dl on s cond h ddl sticks ' TI -[READI N G THE RO SE PATH PATTERN

The fou1 th th1 ead p asses thl ough the eye of the ﬁ 1 st

e e the ﬁ1 st e e fr h ddl on h ddl sticks . From h ere the th1 ea d1 n 1 uns b ack to the fou 1 th h ed dle sticks The eighth th1 ead of the p attern p asses thi ou fr h the

e e of the e e e the f u t e e y s cond h ddl on s h ddl sticks . Thi s i ﬁ n shes one e ea . All the e1 1 r p t oth epea ts a r e simply a . e et th ﬁr t r p ition of e s .

The e e a e the a e a th l ft s lv g is s m s e right .

a e 2 0 ee e two e ‘ If numb r r d i s us d , th r ads of the selva ge ar e drawn th rough each of the ﬁ r st six d en ts and th en one

ea ea ( e the e e a e ea e th r d through ch l n t until l ft s lv g i s r ch d , w e two ar e a a a w ea h n g in d r n through ch of four d ents . If a number 1 0 reed is used fou r th reads of the selvage ar e drawn through a dent at a tim e and th en two th rea ds

ea e t the e e a e ea e th rough ch d n until l ft s lv g is r ch d .

The upper. h eddl e sticks ar e tied to the h eddle horses ’ the a e as the M e s m for onk s B l t . The lower h eddl e sticks a r e also tied to the treadl es ’ the a h sam e s i n t e Monk s B el t .

Weaving the Pattern

I t m ust be rem emb ered th a t the treadl es ar e a l ways e ed i B numb r from r gh t to left . y pressing down treadl es 1 and 3 o ne a the thi ead ai w s e d a w. ea es , h lf r n do n Tr dl

2 and 4 (h aw w h 1 do n t e oth e hal f . Wi th the sh uttl es containinw both the pattei n th 1 ead

and the e at the 1 i ht e “ 11 ti eadles 1 a n 2 bind r g , pr ss do . d

an a the a e ea he e d p ss p tt rn thr d th rough t sh d . e w ea n n Pr ss do n tr dl es 1. a d 3 a d th rough the sh ed

Fi 7 2 — o g . B de s i 3— r r F g . 7 B orders ' 52 FOO T-POWER LOOM WEA VING n p ass the binder . Press 1 a d 2 down a gai n and through th a h a e e sh ed p ss t e p tt rn thread . Press down 2 and 4 a nd p ass the binder through the

To press down the trea dl es in the following order

1 and 2 2 and 3 1 and ' 4

1 and 3 Bin der 2 a nd 4 Bi nd er 1 and 3 B ind er

1 and 2 3 and 4 1 and 4

B ahd 4 Bind er 11 and 3 B ind er 2 and 4 Bind er

2 and 3 3 and 4

1 and 3 Bind er 2 a nd 4 Bind er

Wh en th e aboye h as b een compl eted all the ch anges

e ea r possibl in this thr ding a e shown . O11 rul ed p ap er h ave the pupils m ake as many ' com n i bi at ons of the above ch anges as possibl e. Figures 7 2 a nd 7 3 show a few of the combin ations w e e ov n into bord rs . The Rose P ath is full of interesting combin a tions

w ma be e e a a a e h ich y us d in bord rs for curt ins , b gs , t bl run

n ers and pillow tops .

Finer Threads Used for Wa rp

I t is not n ec essa ry to conﬁne th e wa rp used to the

a - a e wa be e e e e ordin ry four ply c rp t rp . I t m ust r m mb r d ,

we e a the ﬁner the wa the e ea e e ho v r, th t rp mor thr ds th r th {must be to e inch .

For extra ﬁne work the m ercerized cotton may be d . e 3 an used This i s obtain abl e in various sizes . N umb rs

r a . 2 0 a e a e 5 a e most commonly u sed . J p silk No m k s v ry — Tie-u s n Fig . p, U i ll' EAVI NG R O SE PATH PATTERN 53

ﬁner e Gl the o a . good warp for articl s . silk is lso good To on e e inter sted th ere i s an unlimited va riety to be had .

The Lambs

I n the p attern weaving up to this tim e the loom has been tied up in such a way th a t it h as been n ecessary to use both feet in pressing down the treadl es to bring about the d1 e e a e th sir d ch ng s i n e pattern .

i 7 4 w h r win f h 1 F g. sho s t e d a g b such p a rts of t e 10 0 1 1 as ar e i ' r i 4 r e A A F . e e n atte n a . t 7 a conc rn d p m king , g , w the e w th sho n h ddl e sticks i thou t e h eddl es .

A r w h Th r new and t B a e sho n t e l ambs . e l ambs a e

e e e e e h as ee a e thcnn C no r f r nc up to this tim b n m d to ,

Fi . 7 4 a e ea e ea w g , illustr t s six tr dl s inst d of four as sho n and e e e w d scrib d in pr vious dra ings . The working d rawing of the 10 0 111 will show the l ambs h el d in plac e at one end by brackets screwed to the inner h B h u se t 10 0 11 F 4 n 2 0 . e e 1 at B . 7 a d t e righ t sid of , igs y

the a the 10 0 111 ma be e a one w of l mbs , y so ti d up th t foot ill e h e e pr ss down t e desired numb r of h eddl e sticks at one tim . The tying of the upp er h eddle sticks to the h eddl e horses i s the sam e as shown at A a nd a s previously de

Ou ex amin a tion of B it will be found th a t instead of the ea e e e e the we e e tr dl s b ing ti d dir ctly to lo r h ddl sticks , i t

the a w ar e one ea we e e . is l mbs hich e ti d , to ch lo r h ddl stick This tying of the l ambs is don e ex actly the sam e as i f th w e treadl e ere being tied .

i h a . B F . 7 4 w e e t e , g , sho s hol s bor d in l mbs I 3

— m ose a h 75 u ain o d e . Ada a o o Fig . C rt B r r pt ti n fr R P t 54 FO O T- PO WER LOOM WEAVING

W e the a a r e t e the we e e at es 2 and 3 a r e be aw w e a 2 and 3 a r e h n l mbs i d to lo r h ddl sticks, dl to dr n do n , th n l mbs

e w be e the ea e ; e r e e 2 as a e e . t ntion ill giv n to tr dl s Th re a e six treadl s ti ed to treadl e N o . bov d scrib d all i n . This is continu ed until all treadl es h ave been tied to The two e e ea e ar e e the c nt r tr dl s us d in d rawing down Th e e h draw down the righ t h eddles . e h ddl s doing t e pl ai n

e e at w do the a wea . The e h ddl s th ill pl i n ving oth r four, e h e weaving ar e tied to th e two cent r treadl es . T e knot us d two at ea e the e e a r e e a e the a e . ch sid of c nt r , us d to m k p tt rn e F 7 nd h e e . 3 3 9 a i n t e tying has be n fully d scrib d in igs , mber l e 1 h o e e ar e nu ( 2 . S t e t w Th s from right to l ft, , kip 4 0 . h n 4 e e e and e t e a t two 3 a d . c nt r on s numb r l s , i 7 5 ow an a a a the R e a a F g . sh s d pt tion of os P th to If the ﬁr st ch a nge in the p attern indica tes th a t heddl e e 9 ree d border which may be used i n curtains . A numb r 1 n 4 r b e aw w e the a 1 and sticks a d a e to dr n do n , th n l mbs Th e w and wa a r e i s used ; one th read to each dent . oof rp 4 ar e e d th e ﬁ r st ea e as w Fi . 68 . W e ti to tr dl , sho n in g h n e th w the a e a e a . a e a e a e tr l No 1 e e w aw w a 1 and of s m m t ri l C r is t k n not to b t oof ead e . is pr ss d do n it dr s do n l mbs

e a e e e a a e . A t a . s a 4 a 1 and 4 ar e e the we e e oo h rd Thi m t ri l r s mbl s co rs scrim . Sinc e l mbs ti d to lo r h ddl sticks number 3 m erc erized cotton is used in th e bord er a nd a 1 and 4 the e e aw w the e e . , pr ssur m ust dr do n h ddl s

- h If the n ext ch ange in the p attern indica tes tha t hed 2 ply thread is used for t e bind er . CHAPTER 111

Colonial Patter ns

[iMany of the p a tterns used by am ateur weavers of to 7 8 shows the upp er or righ t sid e and 7 9 sh ows the und er “ ” day ar e simply the old Coloni al p a tterns which h ave b een side of the ﬁnished weaving The B ig D i amond is the a e d w one e e a a e a t a a e a e . h nd d o n from g n r tion to noth r . p r icul r n m of th is p tt rn

difﬁcult w w e e e ﬁr The w a e a e e o the a te ° I t is to kno j ust h r th y st origin a ted . follo ing is d t il d d scrip ti n of p t rn The n am es often sugges t the country from wh ich the First : In th reading a p a ttern al ways begin to read

a a e a t th W e the ﬁ r st a . ﬁnished e a the a e e S e . t origin l p tt rn migh t h v com . uch n a mes a s the Olive righ t h n p rt is b gin ’ Lea and a a e Ma ma a e e t the e etc. f Bon p rt s rch y h v com from Franc e ; righ of s cond , ’ ’ the Qu een s D eligh t and the Governor s Gard en may h ave Second : The p attern begins with the first th rea d after com e from Engl and ; whil e the Wh ig Rose may h ave orig the right selvage and ends with the l ast th read j ust before inated e in ou r country as l a te as the tim e when the Whig the left selvag . Pa e e e On : F the e ea a e one r e rty sprung into xist nc . e of the interesting fea Third ind numb r of thr ds to m k

e w the a a e wea e t d a ea . All ea w a a e ar e be e ea ed the tur s of this ork , to m t ur v r of o y , is not p t th r ds ithi n br c to r p t

a e the a e n as e a e ee a e w e e a e . For e a e 4X ea to to cc pt p tt r s j ust th y h v b n h nd d do n , numb r of tim s i ndic t d x mpl , m ns a e h ea e The a a e but to m ke such ch ang s as will en able th e ﬁnished pro repea t t e th r ding four tim s . ctu l n umb r of

ﬁn i e 2 0 e e ducts to d an a ppropr a te pl ace i n the house furnishings th reads i n this p a ttern is 1 68 . If a numb r re d is us d \ of tod ay} this p a ttern may be threa ded two full tim es and up to Th a te th a a e th w the e D e e p t rns wh ich follow ar e given a s th ey were e pl ce m rk d by e arro thi rd tim . ir ctly h a w e e e w a w t is t e e a e ea e . origin lly ov n , tog th r ith such ch nges as m ak e them follo ing h s lv g is th r d d e a e at e The e ea e the e e d si r bl this tim . numb r of th r ds to produc pi c of cloth Reading a D raft is as follows : ” D r a the e a a e to a ea as Two e 1 68 ea 1 08 ea u a r ft is t rm usu lly ppli d thr ding tim s th r ds , pl us th r ds ( p to w F . 7 6 and 7 7 . w e e we r ow 32 ea e a e a ll 4 6 sho n i n igs This , h n prop rly follo d , ) , plus th r ds for s lv g , m king i n a 7 ‘

e h e e w - a as F . 7 8 a nd 7 9 . Fi . ea . The use a a e wa and 1 0 p roduc s t p tt rn sho n i n igs g th r ds of fou r ply c rp t rp a No . 56 FO O T- PO WER LO OM WEAVIN G

— w h ach ou a ed Th amo d. a a e n E Fig . 7 6 e Big Di n Dr ft P tt r it Gr p M rk reed and two th reads to the d ent m akes a tabl e runn er The draft sh ows th a t this combin a tion is rep ea ted four a 2 4 e the e a e the a e aw a i bout inch s wid e whil e in loom . tim s ; this i s indic t d by br ck ts dr n round th s The e u a e the i a Af ter the war p has been reel ed and pl ac ed 0 11 the group . n xt gro p is m d up of comb n tion of '

3 and 1 a e a e . ea the ea ma e . b m , thr ding y b gin , indic t d by br ck ts

— The e h ea the a 4 and 1 Fou rth : Th reading The selva ge is thread ed as be n xt t r ds ru n i n combin tion of , The Th 2 X a e h e and the e 4 and 2 as a e a e . fore d escribed . e indic t s t a t the thr ads wi thin n xt , indic t d by br ck ts i e e th r ea c e the e e a e s a , e brace a e to be th readed twic e . thr ding is on tinu d until l ft s lv g r ch d

‘ h a e th . F B eginning with th e rea l pattern the ﬁ r st thread p asses the brack ets indicating e grouping rom t is pl c

' the ea e at the e i the a e and th rough the eye of a h eddl e on the th ird h eddle sticks . thr ding b gins b g nning of p tt rn is to the let e a e The second thread p asses th rough the eye of a h eddle 0 11 rep eated a second tim e straigh t th rough t s lv g ; a be a e ea th e h ea w h th e a e the second h eddl e sticks . c re m ust t k n to thr d t r ds it in br c

E X 4 X

— 77 Th e amond . a of a e n Fig . Big Di Dr ft P tt r

58 FOO T-P OWER LO OM WEA VIN G

t e ea e and 3 and 4 ar e e the e a e 2 and 4 the a ea e e e w righ m iddl tr dl , ti d to l ft middle fourth ch ng is , so l st tr dl is pr ss d do n

ea . e 4 6 8 e . tr dl , or tim s

Weav ing th e Pattern I t will be observed th a t the threa ds all com e in com ina i n me e th b t o s. S e a Before beginning the real p a ttern about one- h alf inch o tim s combin tion consists of only t W e e two a te a wea wo threads . h n this is tru e th n only p t rn of pl in ving is don e. This is done by pressing down

ea ar e a . ﬁr st one and t e the e th e t th r ds run cross h n oth r of wo middle treadles .

The a w at Fi . 7 7 e all a be W the e at the e h r dr ft sho n g t lls th t m ust ith shuttl right , pr ss down t e fi st w a a a e e the finished e e ea e w aw w e e 2 n kno n bou t p tt rn to produc pi c of tr dl h ich dr s do n h ddl sticks a d 3 . Through ’ th e e as the 6 1 st a e th11 cloth . sh d p s p tt rn ead . D ra For the binder press down the middle treadl e to the Th e Treadling ft ‘ r or h e “ ” ight . I t e s cond p a ttern threa d press down the fir st A treadling draft for ea ch th reading draft is not “ ” “ ea e a a The h1 ea h ea tr dl g in . t d for t e pl ain weaving i s at the necessa ry as the th r ding draft is used as a treadling ” e so the e ea e e e l ft, l ft tr dl i s pr ss d down and the binder is draft in the following way sen t from the l eft to the righ t Attention has a l rea dy been c all ed to the fac t th a t the

For the t a e1 11 th1 ead es w the ﬁr t ea e ea a a e e e e t hi rd p tt p r s do n s th r ding is don i n groups , ch sm ll squ r r p r s n

- ea e a a . The e1 now at th e r the a t ea the a o 3 2 e e tr dl g in bind is igh t , so right ing hr d . If combin ti n is us d four tim s in

e ea e e e w . e e a e ea mea a the r ea e middl tr dl is pr ss d do n This is con tinu d until succ ssion , m king igh t thr ds , it ns th t t dl 2 the ﬁ r st treadle is pressed down as m a ny tim es as th ere p ulling down the combina tion 3 2 is pres sed down eight

' ar e ea a e th ﬁ r esan e ea a ie a ea e w a thr ds indic t d i n e st combina tion . I n this tim d a p att rn thr d c rr d cross ch tim ith

a e e ar nd the e i ue t e An ea w a a e e e e a s a e ea a e a ea . c s th r igh t, bind r s d ft r ch p bind r ft r ch y group of thr ds ithin br c

te ea . e es a e a e e ea d th ea as a e as a e rn th r d If igh t tim m k s too l rg a color spot, is r p te in e tr dling m ny tim s is indic t d

h ﬁr s h ﬁ ur e e w. wa t e ea a be press down t e t treadl e only six or even four times . by t e g b lo I n this y h th r ding dr ft

Th e e h e th ea a . e w av r must be t e j udge. com s e tr dling dr ft The second cha nge i n the p a ttern is 1 and 3 in the The weaver has no doubt l ea rn ed by this tim e th a t all

ea e e e the e o d ead e w a w w a a is e e e the e e a th r ding, th r for s c n tr l hich dr s do n horizont l sp cing d t rmi n d by numb r of tim s 1 and 3 e e w 4 6 8 e as the wea e e ta a ea e and a be a e is p r ss d do n , or tim s , j ust v r c r in combin tion is th r d d c nnot ch ng d h e ea e Th a e a e t a . e e a d sires . ft r e p tt rn is thr d d v rtic l sp cing is con The t a e 1 and 4 the ne e the wea e and ma be a e a t an e hird ch ng is , so fourth or xt to troll d by v r y ch ng d y tim / 1 e he or ex am l <+i th ea af a 1 the a t ea es e w 4 6 0 1 8 t s . T F f e e l st r dl e is pr s d do n , im p thr ding dr t c lls for th com THE THREADIN G DRAFT 59 bin ation 34 four tim es it m eans th a t eigh t th rea ds ar e threading draf t with the finished pattern to find drawn th ro ugh the h eddl e ey es ; i n weaving the pa tternit the p a rts of a d ra ft th a t will produce certain parts t 11 r ed the finishe a e Th e inean a e e 0 w ea a e as d . e e s a é a a e 7 X etc. ea th t igh p tt rn oof th r ds p of p tt rn r p ts m rk d , , l ds “ ” th rough th e sh ed m ad e by drawing clown the combin ation one at once to wh at the Ken tucky wom en ca ll the Tabl e

-4 I t h wea e e th ﬁnishe 3 . t e e o 4 w ea th e d e L a n on v r d sir s nly oof th r ds e com i n patt rn . oc ting a y e p art of the de

a 3 -4 aw w ie 0 11 ma be a e all the e a bin tion is d r n do n only four tin s i t y sign is guid to oth r p rts .

aw w e a the e a a be e e e e a the a e m e dr n do n only onc , thus ch nging v rtic l sp cing I t mus t r m mb r d th t p tt rn ay be wov n

' h ‘h r iz n h e n ea e ea t e o o tal t e a e. t ea o e e ea e e t as ch tim , bu t l ving s m by using only fou r r dl s , ti d to ch h ddl s ick ’ h e h e e h M e nd th I n this way t e th reading draft becom s t e treadling d scrib d i n t e onk s B l t a e Rose Path . d a . I a e ea e e e a ea e the at dr ft n c s ch h dl stick is ti d to tr dl , p I t is only wh en the treadling is irregul a r th a t a sep a r tern is prod uc ed by pressing down treadles 2 and 3 as

at e e a a e as e e . e 1 and 3 as a e as de e draft is n c ss ry . m ny tim s d sir d Th n m ny tim s

The a ar all w e h e 1 and 4 and e 2 and 4 . dr fts e ritt n so that t e p a tte rn begins sir d , th n and e a e e a e a it e sew The a wea e e w ea e nds i n conv ni n t pl c , m king possibl to pl in ving is don by pr ssing do n tr dl s

two e e th a e 1 and 2 a t one e and ea e 3 and 4 a t a e . strips tog th r . I f e dr ft is th a t for a ta ble runn r tim , tr dl s noth r w the e e a e w or pillo top ntir dr ft is giv n , sho ing both The p a tterns which follow will be d esc ribed i n as e . e a wa as e e a e all and ea ar e bord rs bri f y possibl , b c us tying tr dling e e There is li ttl e or no diﬁiculty by comparing the read in the d raft as above d sc rib d .

— 80 Th oub e nowba l . r a 0 1 a e n Fig . e D l S l D ft P tt r 60 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

Wh ere to Begin

' Owing to the width of l ooms i t is n ec essa ry to weave

e ane and ' couch e two count rp s cov rs in strips , to be sewed e l tog th er . I n a l drafts ca re is taken to begin the th rea ding so two edges may be s ewed togeth er to mak e one compl ete

a e th e a e as ﬁ ur e p tt rn , j ust s m g d ca rp ets ar e woven and e e s w d .

The tie-u : Ea we e e e a p ch lo r h ddl stick i s ti d to a l mb . The l ambs ar e tied as follows

1 nd 4 to the ﬁr st a treadle. 1 nd 3 the e e a to s cond tr adl e.

2 nd 3 to the ea a third tr dl e. n 4 h e 2 a d to t fourth treadle.

‘ The pl ain wea ve is don e by tying l ambs

n h a 1 a d 2 to the rig t middl e tre dl e. 8 1 — nish ed Wea n s n oub e no wb all a er n Fig . Fi vi g U i g D l S P tt h e 3 and 4 to t e l eft m iddl e treadl .

i 8 0 w the a a the D e sh w F u e 83 w an a a a th e D e S w F g . sho s origin l dr ft for oubl o i g r sho s d pt tion of oubl no ‘ h i 1 w h W e e w e the a a . difﬁcul t ﬁnd the a t e a e e a and F . 8 t e a b ll , g sho s ov n p tt rn h n dr ft b ll It is not to p rt of p tt rn us d ' ar a when u ed the a a e . a s i 8 0 we . e e 3 96 e one shown in F g. is follo d I t r quir s nds for in origin l p tt rn This p rticul p rt

a e h D w s . h e a e as Fi . 82 e t e rep ea t of t e p att rn . lon in g is oft n c ll d og ood B los om BEGINNIN G TO l -VEAVE 6]

Figure 82 shows the draft for the ad ap ta tion and is read a s foll ows First : 7 04 threads req uired for the en

tire p a ttern . S econd : Each lower h eddl e stick is

ti ed to a l amb .

“ Th ird The lambs a r e tied as follows

1 and 4 to the ﬁ r st treadl e.

1 and 3 to the second treadle .

e e 2 a nd 3 to the thi rd tr adl .

e 2 and 4 to the fourth tr adl e. The pl ain weave is don e by tying l ambs

1 and 2 to the righ t m iddl e treadl e.

e 3 and 4 to the l eft middl e treadl . The m ateri al is a two-ply unbl each ed

cotton warp . wo ea s . 1 5 ee a t U e a No r d , pl cing thr ds

to a d ent . The m a teri al used i n the pa ttern may

- 3 be a colored four ply c a rp et wa rp or a No .

The two - a e wa m erc erized cotton . ply c rp t rp may b e used for the hi nd er or a ﬁne m erc er

ihed thr eagl h tay be used .

' “ W en wea the a e the a h v ing p tt rn , p rt withi n the bra c e is woven a s m a ny tim es as

he he ﬁ u r e . For e a e t i s indica ted by t g x mpl , bra c e m a rked 7 X m eans all wi thin the brac e is woven seven tim es before proc eeding wi th

t the r enwin l er of the p a ttern .

— — 3 o Ta u e . 8 4 de de o f Table u e Fig . 8 Right Side f ble R nn r Fig Un r Si R nn r 62 FO O T-P OWER LO OM WEAVIN G

F e 8 1 w the a e a w e F . 3 igur sho s origi n l p tt rn , h il igs 8 and 8 4 w a a e u e a e i 1 8 . sho t bl r nn r t k n from F g . a e e e ‘ I n This p tt rn is oft n us d for pillow tops . such a

case a squ a re is woven . i 8 5 w \ d11 aft a e F g . sho s a t k n from wha t is known as

' W th 0 1:i inal whieh w i F 6 . e . 8 Block ork , g of is sho n in g . e as we as a the a a e This d sign , ll m ny of old Coloni l p tt rns , e w a e e and is full of sugg stions for pillo tops , t bl runn rs

. e evencounterpan s . i 8 6 . Figure 8 7 shows a pillowtop taken from F g .

l n i 8 7 in Fi . There wi ll be no difﬁcu ty in loc ati g F g . g

6 . Figure 88 sh ows a t abl e runn er tak en from Fig . 8 w ve the a e w the a e F igure 8 8 was o n on s m loom , ith s m w i 8 7 . threading as the pillow top sho n in F g .

Rea the D a Fi . 76 ding of r ft , g

1 0 ee two ea a e . No . r d , thr ds to d nt

- 456 threads four ply c arp et wa rp required .

— nsh e We n of oc Wo Ea we e e e a a . Fig . 8 6 Fi i d avi g Bl k rk ch lo r h ddl stick is ti d to l mb

‘ ves b o r d e r s e l

1 — 8 5 Th e oc Wo . a of a e n Fig . Bl k rk Dr ft P tt r READI NG DRAFT OF FI G. 7 6 63

Th e l ambs ar e ti ed as follows 1 and 4 the ﬁr st to treadle. 3 an d 4 to the second treadl e. 2 an d 3 to the third treadl e . 1 an d 2 to the fourth treadl e . For a wea pl in ve tie . 1 and 3 te th e righ t m iddle ea e tr dl . 2 and 4 th to e l eft m iddl e t ea e r dl .

8 7 — Fig . Finish ed Pillow

O e e a th bs rv th t e l a s t thread the i of r ght selvage is omi tted i n the second ea th r ding . This is don e to avoid two threads coming e e tog th r 0 11 the sam e h eddle s tick . ~ Fig . 8 8 Tab1e u ne W R n r ov en from Block Work 64 FOO T- POWER LO OM WEAVING

B o r d e r “

— ‘ 89 Th e h a o Wh ee . a of a e n Fig . C ri t l Dr ft P tt r

Ch ariot Wh eel the e e a e e sign of und r sid is usu lly mor brok n , thus mak F e 8 9 w a dr aft a a e e e a e m an ar t a igur sho s j t ken from wh a t is known ing it m ny tim s mor d si r bl fro st ndpoint . ' W e a a w let one e th a W ee a e . e as the Ch riot h l p tt rn h n m king pillo , sid of pillow show th nd the e the e e h e e a t e wea i . Figure 90 sho ws a pillow top woven on a loom thread right sid oth r und r sid of v ng

- i Figure 92 shows a counterpan e usin the dratt shown 9 . , g ed with Fg . 8

i i 9 . F e 9 1 w the e i n F g . 8 e F . igur sho s und r sid of g 90 . Ve e the e e the w ea e t Rea the D a Fi . 8 9 ry oft n und r sid of ving is m or a ding r ft, g

e a th e e w th Ma e a : A two- ea a e e The e e ca e wa . tr ctiv th n upp r hich is righ t sid . d t ri l ply unbl ch d rp t rp

e 1 a tw e 5 ee o a a e . Numb r r d , pl cing thr ds to d nt

W : An w - a e w oof y color of ool , four ply c rp t a rp or e er e 672 ea e e N o . 3 m rc iz d cotton thr ds r quired to compl et th e th reading . e r ne e The lower h ddl e sticks a e tied o to ach l amb . Th e l ambs ar e ti ed as follows : e 1 and 3 to the ﬁ r st treadl .

2 and 3 to th e second trea dl e. ‘ i e e 2 and 4 to the th rd tr adl . l 1 and 4 to the four th tr ead e . For the pl ain weave : e e 1 and 2 tie to the righ t middle tr adl .

— 9 Pi o i h e e e e. Fig . 0 110 w Top W v en from Ch ariot Wh eel Pattern 3 and 4 t e to t e l ft middl tr adl

66 FOO T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

“ ” h h et t e Ch ariot Wh eel i nto t e various borders . Such a s

’ e the e a e a dre ta e mat includ s count rp n , curt ins, ssing bl , a e e and e e the the ﬂ oor wh ma w e v l nc v n rug for , ich y be ov n e al h n a e a a t e u it of e . of co rs m t ri s , c rrying out y d sign Thi s p a rticul ar pai r of curtains is woven of Egy pti a n

‘ h t l r w e. T e i wo a e f b ue 3 me t in e bord r s of sh d s o No . cer iz ed cotton .

Th wa ea e e h e A e loom s th r d d 30 nds to t inch . num

' ber 1 5 ee was used awn two rea ea r d , dr i g th ds th rough ch

‘ i i th e e he d ent . Th s does not g ve e scrim w av as shown in t

a F . 7 0 and 75 but e a a e e wea e curt ins, igs , mor of m rquis tt v , r wh ich is ve y pl eas ing. When weaving the border use only the treadl es which will raise and lower the sets of thread th a t will produc e th n r o w ee we e e wea e e o e w . w of h ls I t is ll , ho v r, to v i n a n arrow strip e below and above the princip al bo rd er

e w in a e the r ow w ee . the strip , h ich this c s is of h ls If n a rrow bands ar e to be used across th e top grea t ca re must be ex ercised to get the separa te bands exactly the

' sam e distance from the top and at th e sam e time m ake

e th t th the bord rs at e bot om come togeth er . If e bands across the top ar e omitted the weaving of curtains is great l i iﬁed I e e a be e ma y s mpl . t is not n c ss ry to limit d by

' ter ials as a an ea ma be w e most a t , lmos t y th r ds y ov n into tractive fabrics . In weaving curtains i t is always well to m a ke a liberal A allowa nce for shrinkage. lmost all m aterials wh ether of

1 w 0 1 e w . ool , cotton lin n ill sh rink 93— C u a n Wo en w h B o de om Ch a o Wh eel Fig . rt i v it r r fr ri t ORANGE PEEL PATTERN 6 7

Th e O rang e Peel

Attention has not been c all ed to the fac t tha t i n m any c ases the origi n al woven p a ttern app ears without the draft

i w th a a e the h a e. F 94 e for t e s m g . sho s origin l p tt rn of i 9 6 w i w the a F . O a e ee e F . 95 r ng P l , hil g sho s dr ft for g b de n i 97 . S a e a e a e e a d F g . hould count rp n of this p tt rn

th w Fi . 95 sired the th reading is don e e sam e as sho n in g , r ac The e e omitting the l eft bo der e h tim e. n umb r of tim s the pa ttern i s repea te d d epends upon the width of the loom and also the width of the couch cover or coun terp an e de

be e e e e a the ar e ewe sired . I t must r m mb r d th t strips s d togeth er and must be m ade to m atch . The weaver wil l h ave gain ed by this tim e sufﬁcient exper i ence to m ake the ch anges to m eet the dem ands .

Originality is one of the chi ef aims of the work . The dra ft reads as follows

- 94— al a e om a e ee Material : Two ply u nbl ea ch ed ca rp et warp . Fig . Origin P tt rn fr Or ng P l

e B a r de r Se wa g

B o r d e r

Thr ead once “ fo r e ” las t b o r d e r

— i 9 5 Th e a e ee . a of a e F g . Or ng P l Dr ft P tt rn 68 FO O T- POWER LO OM JVEAVIN G

606 threads for the compl ete p a ttern . e l ~tic Ea ch low r hedd e s k is ti ed to a l amb . The l ambs ar e tied a s foll ows :

2 and 4 to the ﬁr st trea dl e. a 2 and 3 to th e s econd tre dl e.

1 and 3 the ea e. . to th i rd tr dl h e e and 4 to t e fourth tr adl .

' ’ Fig: 9 6— I ill ow T ap Wov en from Orange Peel

R eed 1 5 a tw h . e o ea a e . numb r , pl cing t r ds to d nt The m ateri a l used i n th e p a ttern ( the woof ) may be a ny of th e th ree follo111 ing1 n1 ate1 1 ial s

o - a e mer cer izetl W o wa No . 3 o l , f ur ply c rp t rp , or . cotton .

— e o l ow h own in . 96 Use a ﬁner t ea the e . . 97 nde d f s , hr d for bind r Fig U r Si Pil Fig THE G O VERNOR ’ S GARDEN 69 S a lv ag e

’ — 9 8 Th e o e o s a de . a of a e n Fig . G v rn r G r n Dr ft P tt r

For the pl ai n weave

1 and 2 to the right middle treadle . e 3 and 4 to the l eft m iddl e tr adl e. e F the This p attern has a few i rregul ari ti s . irst The a t selvage is thread ed and th en the right bord er . p te rn i s th en th rea ded ﬁ ve tim es from one a rrow to the

e A e th e ﬁfth ea the ea w the oth r . ft r th r ding th r ds ithin “ ” brac e m ar k ed th read once before l ast bord er a r e t ak en

f A e the a e ea e c are o . ft r this l st bord r i s thr d d , om i tting h e the fir st th rea d in the fi r s t rep ea t of t e bord r . This is don e to avoid two th reads coming togeth er on the fi r st _ Th ea the e e m e e h eddle stick . e thr ding of l ft bord r co pl t s

h e t e p att rn . ’ 99 — 0 a a e n of o e no s a de Fig . rigin l P tt r G v r r G r n . 70 FO O T- P OWER LO OM WEAVIN G

a w . The a w Fi at . 9 w sof billo top dr ft sho n g 5 ill m ake. o this pillow t p . F e 97 w th Fi e e e 96 . igur sho s und r sid of g .

’ Gov ern or s Garden Figure 98 gives the draft for a pillow top or tabl e “ ’ ” runn er taken from the Governor s Gard en shown ia 1

Fi . g 99 .

difﬁcul t e e F 97 and 98 as a I t is to r cogniz igs . h ving ee e Fi 9 9 . b n tak n from g . It is quite wonderful wh at eventhe am at eur weaver wil l be abl e to do after a som ewh a t limit ed experienc e in

a a h ctu l work with t e loom .

An a e e a y dr ft is ful l of sugg stions for bord rs , curt ins

a e e m e e e w e : t bl runn rs , co pl t couch cov rs , pillo tops , count r

a e etc. p n s , “ ’ ” The Governor s Ga rd en i s the longest of the dra fts i 9 8 . and is thread ed j ust as given in F g . The dra ft reads as fol lows

- Materials : Two ply unbl each ed ca rp et warp .

Ree : e 1 5 a two h ea t a e . d N umb r , pl cing t r ds o d nt Th e m a teri al in the p attern ( woof ) m ay be any of - e the m aterials b efore m ention d . Ea we Use 7 1 6 threads for the compl ete p attern . ch lo r

’ 1 00— l ow To Wo en om o e no e e e a am . Fig . Pil p v fr G v r r s Garden h ddl stick is ti d to l b The l ambs ar e tied as follows e I t will be observed th a t the righ t and l eft edges ar e 1 and 4 to the ﬁ r st trea dl . not the am e a the a e . the 1 and 2 the e ea e. s , only h lf p tt rn showing on r ight to s cond tr dl e e an a et h 2 and 3 the ea e. dg d lmost a compl e p a ttern on t e l eft edge. to third tr dl “ ” Figu re 96 shows the Orange P eel worked ou t in a 3 and 4 to the fourth treadl e . BONAPARTE’ S MARCH PATTERN 7 1

For the pl ain weave tie

1 n h a d 3 to t e right middle treadle . and 4 h e 2 to t e l ft m iddle treadl e. Figure 1 00 shows the righ t sid e of the ﬁnished weav

i 1 0 w h e w e F . 1 t e . ing, hil g sho s e und r sid The bord er on the fron t and back edges of a ny weav ing is always t aken care of by weaving the rep ea t of the bord er as m any tim es as is suggested in the dra ft .

’ Bonapart e s March

’ Figure 1 03 shows the woven sa mpl e of Bon ap arte s

M w a t a rch . I t as woven by following the dra ft shown

Fi - was . 1 02 wea the e e a e g . In ving old tim count rp n s it n ec es sar y to weave th em i n two strips bec a use of the w the o a e e a the two idth of lo ms at th t tim . I n ord r th t ewe e e th e was e strips migh t be s d tog th r, e p att rn b gun in the center of som e p a rticul a r ﬁg u r e found i n the p a ttern . Only fou r threads were used i n the selvage along the

Th a a a e 0 11 the e e . l eft edge. e bord er w s usu lly pl c d righ t dg

— . 1 0 1 nde de of low h ow 1 0 Fig U r Si Pil S n Fig . 0

Border s Figure 1 02 reads as follo ws

Bord ers ar e m ad e by repeating c erta in sets of th reads Coun t the number of th reads i n the a e e An one at all a a w at e Ea we e e e a numb r of tim s . y f mili r ith p t rn ch lo r h ddl stick is ti d to The a a r weaving can rea dily und erstand the m a king of bord ers . l mbs e tied as follows 1 nd 4 ﬁr s e 2 a the t ea . Figure 1 04 sh ows a draft t ak en from d raft 1 0 . I t i s to tr dl n h th a t p a rt of the draft th a t will m ake an interesting pillow 2 a d 3 to t e second treadl e. h e 1 and 3 t e a e. top . to th ird tr dl 7 2 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVING

’ — 1 2 o a a e ch . a o a n Fig . Q B n p rt s M ar Dr ft f P tter

I t will be observed th at only three treadl es ar e neces

sa ry to weave the p a ttern . The plai n weave is don e by tying l ambs

1 and 2 to the righ t middl e treadl e.

3 and 4 to the l eft middle treadl e. ‘ The m ateri al may be any of the m a teri al b efore men

tioned . F igure 1 04 may be read and the treadl es ti ed the sam e i 1 2 0 . as described in F g .

’ Snail s Trail Figure 1 05 shows the draft for the p attern shown in “ ’ ” i 0 a e e a e the S a a 1 6 . s F g . Thi p tt rn is oft n c ll d n il s Tr il “ ’ ” and Ca t s Paw.

’ — 1 03 ina a e n of o a a e s a ch Ea we e e e a a . Fig . Orig l P tt r B n p rt M r ch lo r h ddl stick is ti d to l mb

s e lva c

19 5: 4 ’ h 1 04 a of a e n for low Ta . Ad o of o a a e s a c Fig . Dr ft P tt r Pil p aptati n B n p rt M r

/ 74 FO O T-POWER LOOM WEAVIN G

— 1 07 Th oom owe . a t of a e n . e Bl ing Fl r Dr f P tt r ‘ Fig Pine Knot

u “ ” Fig re 1 09 shows the draft for The Pine Knot and

‘

i 1 1 0 shows the w e a e. a e le F g . ov n s mpl This p tt rn nds ' i i i itself to several inter est ng comb nat ons . If the weaver has read wh a t has gon e b efore there wi l be no difﬁ culty by this tim e to sel ec t such p arts of l ' e the p a ttern as a re desir d . The draft reads as follows The a s Tie each lower h eddl e stick to a l amb . l mb ar e tied as follows

2 and 3 to the ﬁ r st trea dle.

2 and 4 to the second treadl e. h e l e 1 and 4 to t e third t r ad .

1 and 3 to the fourth treadl e. The pl ain weave is done by tying l ambs

Fi 1 — nal a e oom owe g. 08 0 , B n 2 to th e e ea e. _ rigi P tt rn l ing Fl r 1 a d . right middl tr dl

“ 3 and 4 to the l eft m iddle treadl e. ,

' I t must not be forgotten th a t the l ambs ar e not abs o

' E ea e ma be e e l essar . a 2 and 4 to the fourth trea dle . lute nec y ch tr dl y ti d dir ct y to Q a a e t ea e The pl ain weaving is don e by tying l ambs the lower h eddl e stick . In such c s only fou r r dl s e a r e e two ar e e e w ea e a t ea 1 and 2 to the right middl e treadl . us d bu t pr ss d do n ch tim hr d is

has a ea ee e i e . p assed through the sh ed . This lr dy b n d sc r b d 2 and 4 to th e l eft middl e treadl e. PINE KN O T AND FEDERAL KNO T PATTERNS

— 1 09 e no . a of a e n Fig . Pin K t Dr ft P tt r

1 1 0— Or i lnal a e ne no Fig . g P tt rn, Pi K t

- 1 1 1 ede a no . a of a e Fig . F r l K t Dr ft P tt rn 7 6 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVING

F a eder l Knot 2 and 3 the ea to fourth tr dl e.

Fi 1 1 h “ ” The a wea e e i a g . 1 s ows the draft for the Fed eral Knot and pl in v is don by ty ng l mbs ‘ 1 and 3 w th e l 1 1 b t ml ddle Fi . 1 1 2 w th wo e ea e. e v n a e. a e th e tr dl g sho s s mpl This p tt rn , e sam g 2 and 4 h e e m1 1 as e e e e t dd e ea e. thos pr viously d scrib d , is ful l of suggestions . to l ft tr dl

Wh eel of Fortune

Figure 1 1 3 shows the d raft for wh a t is known as the

” ‘ W ee F e e e “ h l of ortun , som tim s c all ed the Wh eel of ” Time.

The a ea as w : Ma e al 2 3 4 - dr ft r ds follo s t ri , , or ply ea e a e wa h unbl ch d c rp t rp for t e warp . The m ateri al used in the p a ttern ( the woof ) may be n e a y one of the m at rials already m entioned .

1 - - F0 1 2 a e wa u e . 1 ee u se ply c rp t rp s a No 5 r d , for 3 ply

-ply a . 1 2 ee 4 use a. . 1 0 ee . No r d , for N o r d

I t requires 2 62 th reads for one repea t of the p attern . Th e selvage requires eigh t threads ; and the bord er for a w be a e e a e 1 6 0 ea . a count rp n , thr ds If pillo top is to m d

the border should be m ad e n arrower and on both e dges .

— h e . 1 1 2 inal a e ed e The a e e at the ﬁ r st a w a e t e e a Fig Orig P tt rn, F ral Knot p tt rn b gins rro j ust ft r s lv g h e and ends at the oth er a rrow j ust before t e bord r .

- Th we e e e a a . e m a terial before m ention e d may aga in Tie up : Each lo r h ddl stick is ti d to l mb a a r e as w p ttern . The l mbs a e ti d follo s Th e e draft reads a s fol lows 2 and 4 to the ﬁr st treadl . i T e ea we e e a 2 and 3 the e ea e. ch lo r h ddl stick to a l mb . to s cond tr dl

“ The l ambs ar e ti ed as follows 1 and 3 to th e third treadl e.

1 and 4 the ﬁr s 1 and 4 the ea e. to t trea dle. to fourth tr dl

3 and 4 to the e e For the a wea e tie : s cond tr adl e. pl in v

1 and 2 to the ea 1 and 2 the i e ea e . third tr dl e. to r ght middl tr dl IRISH CHAIN AND WHEEL OF FORTUNE 7 7

n 4 th e 3 a d to e l ft m iddl e treadle. The weaver must always rem ember tha t a grea t deal m e e e e w e th e wea of j udg nt mu st be x rcis d h n doing ving . F ea e ma be e one e ea we our tr dl s y us d , ti d to ch lo r ea e tr dl stick . In such a c ase two tread les must be pressed w at the a e e ma do n s m e tim . Almost any kind of m a t ria l y be a a te th h e he a e a e e e d p d to e work . W n t m t ria l is co rs th r fe b . wer ea must e th r ds to the inch .

F e 1 1 4 w h ﬁnish igur sho s t e ed weaving .

Irish Chain

“ ” “ The a n he e Irish Ch i , som etim es c all ed t Ni n ” “ ” W ee and e e th e e S w a w h ls , som tim s Nin no B lls , i s sho n

— 1 4 W ee o e. i . 1 h of u al a e n 1 1 6 . in F g . Fig l F rt n Origin P tt r “ Th r a h i 1 1 5 . e d ft for t e Irish Cha i n is shown in F g . The draft reads as follows : used in the p a ttern ( woof ) may be a ny one of the ma

- h e l ter ial a ea e e e a : Two e T e a a s . Ma t ri l ply unbl ach ed wa rp . m t ri l r dy m ntion d

S e lv a

B o r d e r

— 1 1 Wh ee of o u e. a o f a e n Fig . 3 l F rt n Dr ft P tt r . 1 78 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

— 1 1 5 Th sh h ai . a a n Fig . e Iri C n Dr ft P tter

— 1 1 8 n s and h ains . na a e n Fig . Ri g C Origi l P tt r — 1 1 6 sh h a n. n a Fig . Iri C i Origi al P ttern

— . 1 1 n n h a ns Fig 7 Dra ft of Pattern. Ri gs a d C i RI N GS AND CHAINS PATTERN 7 9

e 1 5 ee a two ea t Numb r r d , pl cing th r ds o

‘ ‘ e e e n thr ads r quired to compl te o e rep ea t of the patter n .

The Tie- Up

The we e e a r e on e a lo r h ddl sticks e ti d e to ach l mb . The l ambs a r e tied as follows

h r 2 and 3 to t e ﬁ s t treadl e. 2 n e a d 4 to the s cond treadl e. 1 and 4 the ea e to third tr dl , 1 an th ea d 3 to e fourth tr dl e.

‘ For the pl ai n weave 0 1 and 2 to the righ t middle treadle:

‘ 2 n 4 th e a d to e l ft middle treadle . Figure 1 1 8 sh ows the origin a l p atter n woven by fol A w th i th e . e a w F . 1 1 7 w e lo ing dr ft sho n i n g , ithou t bord r counterp an e or couch cover is not q uite compl ete if l eft w e Fi 1 1 9 w a e a e w ithout a bord r . g . sho s count rp n ith

i h e e the a e . F . 1 1 7 w e a bord er . g sho s t compl t dr ft for s m

The sa m e dra ft. may be used for a pillow top or tabl e runner by th reading the bord er fewer times and rep ea ting

an h e a h e e it d t e s lv ge along t e l ft sid . The a m ateu r weaver has no doubt discovered by thi s tim e th a t any border consists only of a certain n umber of e e e e thr ads of each combin a tion rep ated a numb r of tim s , the number of r ep ea ts d ep ending en tirely upon the width h of t e border d esired . The front border i s a l ways p roduc ed by follo wing the “ ” a w w the a e a e e e ea d r ft sho n ithin br c m rk d bord r, r p ting ' a the weaving as m any times s i s indic a ted . 8 0 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

Upon ex amin ation i t is found th a t to produce the nu ished pi ec e of cloth the p a ttern treadl es ar e ti ed as follows

The we e e r n lo r h ddl sticks a e tied o e to each l amb .

ea e 1 a nd 2 ar e h ﬁ r Tr dl s ti ed to t e s t l amb .

ea e 1 nd 4 a r h a Tr dl s a e ti ed to t e second l mb . ea e and 4 ar h Tr dl s 3 e tied to t e third l a mb .

ea e 2 n r h Tr dl s a d 3 a e tied to the fourt l amb . Pla in weave :

ea e n r Tr dl s 1 a d 3 a e ti ed to the righ t middl e treadl e. T ea e 2 n 4 ar h r dl s a d e tied to t e l ef t m iddl e treadl e. The m ateri als used ar e simil a r to those previously e suggested for other p att rns . Figure 1 2 0 sh ows a p ai r of curta ins woven of “ w e The e n a a a R Egypti an t in . bord r is a d pt tion of ings ” Th a e h e m a be and Ch ains . e p rt us d in t e bord r ay e sily

1 1 . Th ea h e e e a e Fi . 9 e found in t e compl t d count rp n , g thr d ing for th e border in the curtains is th e sam e as shown in

wea the ead e ar e e a w i 1 1 7 . F g . I n ving only tr l s us d th t ill

produc e the borders shown in the curtains .

Old Quilt Pattern

The finished counterp an e shown i n Fig. 1 2 1 was

i . 1 2 2 woven by fol lowi ng the draft shown in F g . The nam e of this p a rticul ar p a ttern i s unknown to Th a was a e an e a e the a uthor . e dr ft t k n from old count rp n

M E a e Gr a e Jo e 1 11. belon ging to iss liz b th ng r , of li t ,

' Each lower h eddle stick is ti ed to a l amb . The treadl es ar e ti ed as follows

Trea dl es 1 and 2 ar e ti ed to the ﬁ r st l amb .

1 2 0— o ns Fig . Curtains with B rder from Rings and Ch ai

m on p owm LO OM WEAVIN G

— . 1 2 2 1d u e . of a er Fig 0 Q ilt Patt rn Draft. P tt n

— 1 2 3 eo . l a e n Fig . L p ard Skin Origina P tt r

~ 1 24 e0 a d . a of a e n Fig . L p r Skin Dr ft P tt r MISCELLANEO US COLONIAL PATTERNS 8 3

- 1 2 5 Fox T a l . a of a e Fig . r i Dr ft P tt rn

— — W d ows in 2 7 oo s and . al a e 1 2 6 Fox T a l . i na a e n . 1 Fig . r i Or gi l P tt r Fig D r in Orig P tt rn

— 1 28 oo s and W dows . a 0 1 a e n Fig . D r in Dr ft P tt r 84 FO O T-P OWER LO OM WEAVIN G

— F i 1 29 oub1 h a o Wh eels . a of a e n g . D e C ri t Dr ft P tt r

— — B l n a e n F i . 1 o n . 1 31 ca l e a s. a g 30 D ub1e Ch ariot Wh eels . Origi al Pattern Fig S r t l Origi l P tt r

— 1 32 ca e a s. a of a e n Fig . S rl t B ll Dr ft P tt r US COLONIAL PATTERNS 8 5

— 1 33 Sea a . a a e Fig . St r Dr ft P tt rn

- — i Wh e ouse. r na a e 1 34 Sea a . na a e n F . 1 35 Th e Fig . St r Origi l P tt r g it H O igi l P tt rn

— 1 36 Th e Wh e ouse. a 0 1 a e n Fig . it H Dr ft P tt r . 86 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

~ — n o a Fig.1 37 Th e I diana Frame R se. Dr ft of Pattern

— — W ndow ash . nal a e n . 1 39 O 1 38 Th e nd . n me ose. n Fig . I a a Fra R Origi al Pattern Fig i S rigi P tt r

— 1 40 dow ash . a of a e n Fig . Win S Dr ft P tt r MISCELLANEO US COLONIAL PATTERNS

’ — 1 1 41 Pa 1 son s ea . of Fig . B uty Dra ft Patt

' ' — — 1 42 a son eau . na e . s l a . 43 ddoc e e na a e Fig P r B ty Origi P tt rn Fig 1 Bra k s D f at. Origi l P tt rn

— ' 1 44 addoc s De ea . a 0 Fig . Br k f t Dr ft ! Pattern 88 FO OT-POWER LO OM WEAVI NG

’ i 1 45— Th l o e we . F g . King s F r

’ ’ — - n owe . n 4 e n e h . i n . 1 46 Th l 1 7 u e s al a e n Fig e Ki g s F r Origi al Pattern Fig . Q D lig t Or gi P tt r

’ — 1 48 uee s e h . a o f a e n Fig . Q n D lig t Dr ft P tt r 3 X

9 0 FOOTLPOWER LO OM WEAVI N G

— 1 5 o b e ow no . a of a e n Fig . 3 D u l B K t Dr ft P tt r MISCELLANEOUS COLONIAL PATTERNS

- — o Wh ee s . al a e . 1 55 u O 1 54 0 ub e B ow o . al a e g Fig . D l Kn t Origin P tt rn Fig F r l ri in P tt rn

— 1 56 ou Wh ee s . a 0 1! a e Fig . F r l Dr ft P tt rn 92 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

— 1 57 in n now a l . a of a n Fig . Virg i a S B l Dr ft P tter

— — . 1 58 n a now B a . n l a e n 1 59 D o Trac s . nal a e n Fig Virgi i n S ll Origi a P tt r Fig . g k Origi P tt r

— 1 60 D o T ac s . a of a e n Fig . g r k Dr ft P tt r MI SCELLANEOUS COLONIAL PATTE’RNS 93

— 1 6 1 Th e a o m . a of a e n Fig . Pl tf r Dr ft P tt r

— — M a a e n . l o . Fi . 1 6 3 uess e F ig . 1 62 Th e Pl atf rm Origi nal Pattern g G Origin P tt r

— e e. Fig . 1 64 G u ss M Draft of Pattern 94 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVI NG

— i 1 65 W nd owe . r a of a e n Fg . i Fl r D ft P tt r the ea i and the o e be wed the For the a wea e 2 and 4 ar e e e e and 1 thr d ng, th r to follo i n using pl in v , ti d tog th r,

and 3 . treadl es . ea i we th e wea e F e 1 65 w e a the a the be W enw F . 1 66 e igur sho s x ctly w y loom shoul d h ving, g is follo d ; v r pr ss d h a e i w ea e as w aw ow the ea e . 1 . A e thr ad ed to pro uce t e p tt rn shown in F g . 67 ft r i ng do n such tr dl s ill dr d n thr ds h e the ea e e e e e u se Fi . a e the ea a . e e e t e th r ding i s compl t d th r is . n o furth r for g indic t d i n tr dling d r ft To d t rmin numb r ' ' Th a n ea e ar e e the a r e e ea ea e be r essed down the a 1 6 5 . e l mbs a d tr dl s ti d s m e as in p of tim s ch tr dl should p dr ft vions p a tterns may be divid ed in groups of threads as suggested i n

7 6 . h r Fi . 2 and 3 to t e ﬁ st treadle . g h The Whig Rose 1 and 2 to t e second . 4 th F e 1 68 w a e a e w e 1 and to e thi rd . igur sho s noth r p tt rn ov n by using

two a s one ea and one fer ea . Fi . 3 and 4 to th e fourth . dr ft , for thr ding tr dling g

— 1 66 W d owe . T ead n a Fig . in Fl r r li g Dr ft MI S ELLA EOUS L A C N CO ONI L PATTERNS 9 5

— . 1 67 Fig Original Pattern and B ord er Woven fro m Th e Wind owe a e n Fl r P tt r F i — g . 1 68 The Wh o e ig R s . Original Pattern ' FOO T-POWER LO0 M WEAV

Fi 1 69=— Th e g . Whig Rose. Draft of Pattern

h ws t e ea a the W R e w e The t ea tie-u and ea ar e l sho th r ding dr ft for hig os , hil hr ding, p tr dling a l found i n ' 1 7 0 w the t ea dr aft for h m t e a e. The a e the a and e e e e a a sho s r dling s p tt rn dr ft r q uir no furth r xpl n tion . ea e ar e e 1 and 2 the ea e 2 n a d 3 the The a e Fi . 1 72 w the ﬁnished a e as tr dl s ti d to first tr dl , to h lfton , g , sho s p tt rn , e 3 and 4 the 1 an d 4 h . t e . it e a Ke t s cond , to thi rd , to fourth t e ea . . is us d B r , n ucky '

The a wea e is e 1 and 3 to the The wa a two - - we pl in v don by tying righ t rp is ply t nty cotton th read . e ea e and 2 and 4 the e e t ea e. Th w middl tr dl , to l ft middl r dl e oof i s of wool .

1 A e the ea has ee e e e e 11 0 e e ar e 3 0 ea the ea ft r thr ding b n compl t d th r is Th r th r ds to inch , thr ded th rough t e se Fi u . 1 69 . W e wea i w F . 1 7 0 t No ee n g h e e a . 30 o e ea the e a fur h r for h n ving, follo g , d nts of r d , thr d to d nt , or e e e i t a ea a a e e e e one w 1 e tw ea . 5 e o the e . r m mb r ng h t ch d rk squ r r pr s nts oof No r d , thr ds to d nt th read .

Sun M n and S a P e e m , oo t rs in Con Bloo

Figure 1 7 1 sh ows a draft for wh a t is known as the Figure 1 73 shows the d raft for wh a t is known a s the Sun Moon ‘and S a ‘ , t rs . Pin e Con e Bloom .

— i 1 7 Th Wh o . T e d F g . 0 e ig R se r a ling Draft

: 98 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

- i 1 3 Dr . F g. 7 a ft Pi ne C one B l oom

— — . 1 74 n sh ed l o h . e C one oom Fi 1 7 6 of th e a e Fig Fi i C t Pin Bl g . Lily V ll y

i 1 7 5 of th e a l e . of a e n F g . V l y Draft P tt r MISCELLANEO US COLO NIAL PATTE’RNS

— — . 1 7 9 B a . 1 Fig g Fig . 80 H and Bag

— . 1 7 7 Th o Fig e H ney S tickle. Dra ft of Pattern

1 7 8— A i Fig . da ptat ons from th e H oney S uckle Patté r n ” 100

— 1 82 a of a e n used in . 1 81 Fig . Dr ft P tt r Fig

FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

r e the e o Agai n acco ding to principl four , n xt c mbi n ation ( block 3 ) must be one tha t h as in i t the l a st num the a a the a e was 2 her j ust used . In di gr m l st numb r , so

“ the combina tion 2 3 m u st he used n ext: This is r epr e h e e e e e e e sent ed as before on t e lin s r pr s nting thos h ddl s ,

‘ counting the 2 al r ead v th ere as the ﬁ r st numb er a nd using

a e n a e as e e ar e be wa ea e as m any lt r t ly , th r to rp th r ds und r the thi1 d block of ( 0 10 1 — 1 11 this c ase 8

Block 4 is th e n ex t to he considered . This bl oc k m ust be one th a t has i n it the l a st num

‘ her j ust used The l a st number as \se the combin a

1 e ese11 ed a s befow tion 3 4 must be used n ext . This is pl t

entin e e e the 3 on the lines l epres g thos h ddl s , coun ting al r eady th er e as the ﬁ i st 11 umbe1 a nd using as 111 a ny altei h mat ely as th ere ar e to b e wa rp threads unde r the fourt

— h 4 block of color ia t i s c ase .

B lock 5 is th e n ext to be consid ered .

e ﬁve ea ee a Accordi ng to principl , it is sily s n th t block

a e e bl 3 a nd e e e e b y 5 is simply r p tition of . is r pr s nt d a t 2 He e ﬁ r st diﬁicul t . The the combina tion 3 . r is y l s

e was 4 and e k e be ke h eddl e us d , our n xt bloc i n ord r to li

- the be a e w the a 2 3 . In thi rd , m ust m d ith combin tion

— m e a e n e eated 3 . 1 83 C o e R h ﬁ r s t the e Fig pl t P tt r p order to h ave th e l ast thread be t e in n xt , ca n be ade must be the l ast h eddl e used . This m right by

e ead to the wa ea e the e e e e e e as e e e a ddin g anoth r thr rp thr ds und r m ust be us d n xt . Th is is r pr s nt d b for on . th ‘ ' We 1 h the e e . e e e es n the 1 a11 ead fourth bl ock a nd p utting i t t rough thi rd h ddl lines repr s n ting those h ddl , counti g . y two e the h ed e ar e e ea u se 3 2 , th ere as the ﬁ r st numb er and! usi ng as m a ny al tern a tely, th n r dy to tim s using t i rd h dl

ﬁ r st. as th ere ar e to be warp threa ds und er th e second block of

6 be e e e . color— in thi s c ase Block is to n xt consid r d A NAL Y SIS OF WO VEN PATTERN 1 03

e ﬁve 6 0 11 a e. ver According to principl , block is lin tic ally and horizontally with bl ock 4 a nd shoul d be r epr e

in o - 4 e to a e the a sente d by the eomb a ti u 3 . In ord r h v l st

ea the ﬁr st the e 3 be the a e e e . thr d in n x t , m ust l st h ddl us d Th is can be m ad e righ t by adding a nother th rea d to the warp th reads und e r the fi fth block a nd putting i t thl 'eugh

the ed e. We r e ea 3 4 third h dl a e th n r dy to use two tim es .

B ck 7 be e lo is to n xt considered .

A e fi e 7 a e er ccording to p rincipl v , block i s on lin v tic ally and horizontally wi th block 5 and should be vepre

e e the co111bi11a tion 3 -2 The a h ea e was s nt d by . l st t r d us d 4 c . This an be mad e righ t by a dd ing a noth er threa d to the warp threads unde r the sixth bl oc k and pu tting i t

' h e r e 2 through t e thi rd h ddl e. We a e th en r ady to use 3 two e n the e ﬁ r st tim s , usi g th ird h ddl e . Block 8 is the same as blocks 6 and 4 and is rep t e

e e th a -4 Th a ea e s nt d by e combin tion 3 . e l st thr d u s d i n

7 a 2 A e e the block w s . noth r threa d must now be add d to wa rp th rea ds of block 7 and th rea ded th rough the thi rd " ed e We r e - . a e e a h dl th n r dy to use 3 4 two tim es . B lock 9 is the sam e as block 3 and shoul d be r epr e e te th a s n d by e combin tion 2 3 . Sinc e the l a st th rea d of

o 8 was e e e e d e bl ck four, i t b com s n c ssary to a d a noth r warp ea 4 an ea thr d to block d th r d i t through the th ird h eddle. We ar e e r ea dv us 2 th n to e 3 eigh t times . B l ock 1 0 is the same as block 2 and i s repres ente d by the b a 1 2 S th com in tion . ince e l ast th read of block 9 was 2 we ar e ea u se 2 1 , r dy to four times .

B ck 1 1 the a e a s 1 and e e e e 1 4— lo is s m block is r pr s nt d by Fig . 8 Unit to b e Analy zed - 1 04 FOOTj POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

1 8 5— A a e Ana s s Fig . P tt rn ly i

' 1 06 FO O T- POWER LOOM WEAVIN G

a D f bric . rafts may be had fr om various sources wi thout the w e a ov n f bric .

" I t is a great sati sfaction to the amateur weaver to be able to block ou t the draft at h and and thus know befor e the l oom is t hr eaded wh at sort of p attern a certai n draft w e w e w e ill look lik h n ov n .

i i é— o o li . s a of S i mon s e h Fig . Dr ft D g t

The a w i 1 ’ dr ft sho n in F g . 80 is known as Solomons

D e . o a ﬁ r t e e a e e ligh t To bl c k out this dr ft, s s cur pi c of a e ed e -ineh a e A the lef e p p r rul i n ighth squ r s . long tfedg w te th a w i - 1 e as F . 1 Th ﬁ r a ri dr ft sho n i n g 87 . e st combin

- 4 . e e ar e ea o tion is 1 Th r four thr ds in this combinati n , but as a matter of convenienc e onlytwo threads ar e shown

Fi 1 7 - 8 . Th 1 4 e h in g . e is wri tt n ;t e sign b elow indica tes a e 1 4 Ea a 11 e r e en a Th en noth r . ch squ re p s ts a thre d. e n tire draft is written i n this way. Th ere is o obj ec tion to

‘ th O ea h using e number f thr ds s oWn in the draft . This

’ — o of o omo s el h th th l 1 87 Bl oc u a , simply doubl es e size of e b ocks . k t Dr ft S l n D ig t _ . Th f a a e h f h e dra t, is g in wri tt n a t t e top o t e checked

a a e ar e fill e d w a e e . Fol a e . Fi . 1 87 ea e a r ow a e e e e four sm ll squ r s in ith color d p ncil p p r In g ch v rtic l of squ r s r pr s nts , h e a the a a warp thread ; lowing across t e p ap r ea ch time th t combin tion 1 -4 ea e a a e filled as w at a h c -d , , fil h w i 1 7 e a th e is r ch d squ r is in sho n , , , , To l in t e blocks as sho n i n F g . 8 b gin t i 87 . e f and . F . 1 - e Th fi r st a n at the e , , g g upper left h and cern r . ~ e combin tio l ft

1 -4 and the ﬁ r st a at The The e a at the e the e is , combin tion n xt combin tion l ft is s cond BLOCKIN G OUT A PATTERN 1 0 N

1 89 Fig .

h the a t h e e e i 1 8 7 . e e at e 4 ea a the t e a F . Combin tion top is This m ns th t where ch ck d p p r, g Thi s i s don to giv

e a and ta ea the e wea e a e te ea the a e . v rtic l h orizon l th r ds c ross , block is color d v r b t r id of p tt rn

' w h i a n i - as k. F 1 a t . 87 . wa the eh sho n , , j , d g I n this y Any four har ii es s draft may be worked ou t i n this way e a e e 0 11 the e d nd tir p tt rn i s block d ou t squ ar p ap er a pro and i s a m ean s of d etec ting mistak es so often m ad e i n e a ea w the wea e ma et a ood ea n a a ea vid s m ns by h ich v r y g g id Copying draf ts . A y mis t k e i n a d r ft i s sily found h e w th r in t e a ead the e e 10 0 111 . of p tt rn i thou t g , nti r and may be m ade righ t by the one who is ch ecking it over .

wil be O e e a th e a Fi 1 ha ee . 8 6 s 1 8 and I t l bs rv d th t d r ft i n g b n Make p atterns on ch ecked p ap er for Fi gs . 8 repeat ed along the l eft sid e and also ac ross the top of Linen Weav es

So new is the return of weaving th a t few am a teurs h ave ven tured to do m uch i n the way of reproducing the

e wea e e e a e the e ol d lin n v s so g n r lly us d i n a rly days . Und er ordin a ry conditions lin en th11 eads ar e not in the l east difﬁ cult to seeni' e from va rious d ealers i n textil e a e a m t ri ls .

’ is a e e a e a e e own en It v ry simpl m tt r to r is on s l in , thus m aking the lin en products of the 10 0 111 doubly i nter

e . The a a a e e a the e d sting pp r tus n c ss ry to b d ing , scutch

and the ﬂ ax m ing, spinning of ay be purch ased of the S L Community hop , ockport , Illinois . The following drafts ar e not only suitabl e to the weav

oi - e an a e a ing l in ns , but y m t ri l used in other wea vings ma be e e e w ea e y h r us d ith gr t succ ss .

Marth a Washington T owel

— . 1 91 n sh ed a e . a h Wash o To a. we . h a w Fi 1 9 - Fig Fi i P tt rn M rt ingt n l T e . 0 a the Maitha dr ft sho n i n g is th t for . we Wash ington To l .

— l OO a h a Wash n o To . of e n Fig . M rt i gt n wel Draft Patt r

’ 1 1 0 FO O T-PO WER LOOM WEAVI NG

a t ea e 4 an e 1 41 tie to the e ea e. Tr mp r dl d th n treadl e 3 . L s cond tr dl

- r a t ea e 5 nd e 2 4 ie to the ea e. T mp r dl a th n trea dle 3 . 4 t thi rd tr dl

- t ea n h ea e. a e 5 a d e ea e 3 . 2 3 tie to t e Tr mp r dl th n tr dl 02 fourth tr dl

- m ea n 1 2 ti th e ﬁfth ea e. Tra p tr dl e 1 a d th en treadl e 3 . e to tr dl

- ea 1 n e i h ea e. Tramp tr dle a d th n treadle 3 . 5 3 4 t e to t e sixth tr dl 1 1 e a ea e tim s Tr mp tr dl e 2 and th n trea dl e 3 . Treadling D raft

a t ea 2 1nd e ea e 3 . Tr mp r dler 1 5 th n tr dl n e Only o e shuttle i s us d .

h - Use t e doubl e tie up as des cribed on p age 1 2 9 . Repea t th is group times

é etsy Ross Towel

Fig 1 92 shows th e th reading draft of the Betsy R

1 1 in iestin 1 - 1 e TO 1 s te a es a . 11 el . This a most g fou b n s p tt rn i i 1 93 a e the ﬁn shed a e . F g . illustr t s p tt rn this group j 3in tim es i 1 94 w ano e a e a e a F g . sho s th r p tt rn m d by sligh Tramp 1 th en 2 l ch ange i n the order of trea dling . “ 0 R6 ? thI S group 1n ht tl mes 2 Tramp 3 th en 4 J An y numb er of modiﬁed wea vings may be had by a th e e the ea ch nging ord r of tr dling groups .

— o a 0 1 a e n 1 9 2 e s oss T we . Fig . B t y R l Dr ft P tt r Mollie Pitch er Towel

Fi . 1 95 ate th th r i 4 ee n hr g illustr s e . ead n draft for the Molli e Use a . 8 o e t ead to the e e e N o r d , d nt , xc pting g

e we . The wea e inte tin in the ﬁ r st and l ast two th rough which two threads ar e Pitch r To l v is mos t r es g and

1 e the u O wa th A e volv s se of only one shu ttl e as doall the oth er linen 1 use . 0 a S . drawn . F rp e N o 7 J p ilk tt ntion i s wea e ca ll ed to the numbering of the h a rnes ses v s 1 9 Fig. 6 is the ﬁnished p attern obtain ed by following Tie- U p the ea as e a e w Fi 1 e . 97 tr dling giv n bov , h il g shows anoth er The treadl es ar e tied as follows p attern p roduce d by m aking a sligh t cha nge in the order of

r e ea . 3 1 3 tie to the ﬁ st treadl . tr dling BETSY R OSS TO WEL 1 1 1

For wa us e a . 7 0 Ju S . 4 rp , N o p ilk No . 8 reed ; one ea to ea e e e t thr d ch d nt , xc p ing the ﬁ r st and l ast th ree into w two ea ar e a hich thr ds dr wn .

Tie- Up

Use th - e e tie u as e e a e 1 3 0 doubl p, sugg st d on p g . Ha e e 1 2 and 4 tie the ﬁr rn ss s , , to s t treadl e .

Ha e e 1 2 a nd 3 tie the e rn ss s , , to s cond treadle . 4 tim es Ha e 5 tie the e rn ss to third tr adle.

Ha e e 2 3 and 4 tie the rn ss s , , to fourth treadl e .

Ha e e 1 3 and 4 tie the ﬁ fth rn ss s , , to treadle.

T ea D a Fi 1 9 r dling r ft for g . 6 Tramp 1 th en 8 tim es Tramp 2 then Tramp 1 th en 3 Tramp 4 th en 4 t un es Tramp 5 th en 3 Tramp 4 th en 3 Tramp 2 th en Tramp 2 th en Tramp 1 th en 3 Tramp 1 th en 3 Tramp 2 th en 3 Trump 2 th en 3 Tramp 5 th en 3 tim es Tramp 5 th en 3 Tramp 4 then 3 Tramp 4 th en 3 Tramp 5 then 3 Tramp 5 then 3 — Fig . 1 96 Mollie Pitch er Towel 1 1 2 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVING

Tramp 4 then 3

Rep ea t from b eginning .

8 tim es

1 tim es

tim es

1 97 — o l e i ch e Towe Fig . M l i P t r l

i 1 95— a for o e ch e Towel F g . Dr ft M lli Pit r

1 1 4 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVI NG Treadling D raft

Tramp 5 th en (i 3 tim es Tramp 3 then 2 a 3 e 2 4 tim es Tr mp th n Tramp 5 th en (3 3 tim es Tramp 1 th en 4 Tramp 1 then 2 tim es Tramp 4 th en 3 tun es Tramp 2 th en 1 Tramp 3 th en 4 Tramp 1 then 4

Repea t from beginning .

I ' ' — ~ i 200 M s and o s . 9 F g .

v h a Of a e “ 1 Dr ft P tt r — m — . 2 01 o e ed a e n 2 03 om e e Fig C pl t P tt r , Fig . C pl t d Pattern ' ’ M s and o s of 2 2 Fig . 0

’ ’ M s and O s Ha e e 1 and 3 ar e e the ea e. i 2 00 w rn ss s ti d to thi rd tr dl The short threading draft shown in F g . is kno n Ha e e 2 and 4 ar e e the ’ ’ rn ss s ti d to fourth treadl e. M n s in Kentucky as s a d o . s t the wa and a e 2 0 e T ea D a U e co ton for rp , numb r lin n for r dling r ft th filler T e 2 2 0 ea e e the ter e . h / cotton unbl ch d us d in coun a fi r st two ea e e e a e a e e Tr mp tr dl s igh t tim s lt rn t ly , th n i 2 1 w th e fin a a e n. F . 0 p an es is suit bl e for this p tt r g sho s 3 and 4 ea e e e a e a e a wa e tr dl s igh t tim s lt rn t ly , l ys b ginning ished at e . p t rn at the righ t . i 2 w modifie ’ ’ F . 02 a d th M n g sho s draft of e s a d 0 s . Fi .2 03 w the finished e e g sho s pi c of work . _ The weaver must rem ember th a t th e horizon ta l di mensions i n weaving d ep end upon the numb er of tim es

’ ’ — e ea ar e eate h 202 Modiﬁed r a in M s and o s a e t e af . The e a Fig . D ft c rt in thr ds r p d i n dr t v rtic l “ dim ensions d ep end upon the number of times certain r e e w i trea dles a e pr ss d do n . Th s is ver y clearly d emon Th e Tie-Up th mod iﬁ str ated in e ed draft .

es n 4 ar e th e ﬁ r st t ea e. one e is u e as no i e ece a Harn ses 3 a d e ti d to r dl Only sh uttl s d , b nd r is n ss ry

h ea e . Harn esses 1 and 2 ar e ti ed to the second treadl e. in any of t e lin en w v s CHAPTER VI

D anish and N r e ian Wea vin o w g g .

La 2 n i h ﬁr mbs a d 4 t e to t e st treadle. Ways of Expressing D anish Pattern s La 1 n ti h mbs a d 3 e to t e second treadle . It has been stated al ready th a t no a ttempt has been La 1 an i h mbs d 2 t e to t e thi rd treadle . a e a e a a e Th m d to m k this m nu l t chnic al . e pl an is to k eep The order i n which the treadles ar e pressed down i s every p atter n simpl e and to tel l of i ts ex ec ution in as indica ted by the sta rs on the vertical lin es j ust to the e a wa as e simpl y possibl . h e e i ri gh t of t e woven pa tt rn . Tr adl e No . 3 s pressed down The D a e Swe e and e a a n s , d s , N orw gi ns h ve c arri ed ﬁ r st e ea e . 2 e a . 3 e t . 1 , th n tr dl N o , th n b ck to No , n x No , weaving on the foot - power loom to a high d egree of nd e a No t a 3 e c. th n b ck to . , t- ic-icnc Th jf y. e work i s c a rri ed 0 11 to a very grea t extent F e 2 05 w the a a nd a w e a e a the e i a e h igur sho s d r ft ov n s mpl for i n hom s . Thi s s l rg ly due to the fact th at t e gov th e two h arn ess l oom . Each horizontal lin e above e wov n er nm ents of th ese countries encourage weaving as a home

‘ a te a a a e e a es . Ea Ea e p t rn st nds for p i r of h ddl sticks ( h rn s ) ch industry . ch of th se countri es ha s its own way of

er a e a a ea e. a is ea e w nd e a n v tic l lin st nds for tr dl This d r ft th r d d riting a r ading dr fts . I t is the purpose of this ma in the following way ual to giveto am at eur weavers an expl an ation of the way Th ﬁr st ea a e the e e the e e each of the th ree n ation ali ti es wri tes and interprets i ts e th r d p ss s th rough y of h ddl h Th ea a e a t e ﬁ r st a e e . e e dr fts . on p ir of h ddl sticks s cond thr d p ss s the e e the e e the e a e e Reading a D raft through y of h ddl on s cond p i r of h ddl

. Ea e a e e ea e e a . - sticks ch tim h ddl is th r d d , i t i s push d long Figure 2 04 shows a fou r h am ess p a ttern woven by The ea a e the e e the e e h e r one third th r d p ss s th rough y of h ddl on using th ree treadl es . T e low r h eddl e sticks a e tied

th e n . The e e thi rd h ddl e stick a d i s push ed a long fourth to ach l amb . ea a e the e e the ﬁr st e e the The treadles ar e ti ed a s i ndica ted by the stars plac ed th r d p ss s th rough y of h ddl on

h h e e and e a . The ﬁfth ea on t e horizont a l lin es j ust to the righ t of t e th reading. fourth h ddl stick i s push d long th r d The tie- up is int erp reted as follows goes back to the ﬁr st h eddl e stick and is thread ed th rough 1 1 6 T— FO O POWEI B LO OM WEAVIN G

2 04 i . F . 2 05 . 2 06 2 07 Fig g Fig Fig .

- the e e the e e e and e a : The tie-u ea e a ea e e e ne- h a the y of s cond h ddl is push d long p, ch tim tr dl i s pr ss d down , o lf t e d e th a e a e as the ﬁr st ea th e ea a r e aw w . a a e wh a two h r ing conti nu s s m four thr ds , thr ds dr n do n This pr ctic lly do s t

e bcin -l 2 4 r e e w . B he a 3 . e the e e a e e t ead ord r g , , , This is continu d u ntil d sir d h rn ss s ould do y using four s ts th r s

e ea ha e e w e e e e Th e a a e 0 11 the numb r of th r ds s b e n th r ad ed . not cro d d so clos ly tog th r . st rs pl c d I t will be observed th at only two trea dl es a r e used vertic al lin es to the righ t of the woven sampl e indic a t e th e w l1 e e e r a e The e er w the ea e ar e be e e w . hil th r a e four h rn sses for pl ain weaving . ord i n hich tr dl s to pr ss d do n

i 2 6 w 1 1 o~ k Fi . 0 w g nn er migh t as why u se four h arn esses wh en two m igh t g sho s a som e h a t ch eck ed m ateri al . To p n n e answer the purpose. If a y grea t number of th reads is to duc e this p a ttern the wa rp is m ade up of blue a d whit i 5 e h e Th ea h e s F . 2 0 he a wea e e to u se a e e a . e e t e a a us d in pl i n ving, i t is b tt r four rn ss s thr ds th r ding is don s m in g , i te ﬁr wo e an e two w e ea ar e ea e a two ea as a e e e . st t d ns d of , th r ding bov d scrib d but blu th n hit thr ds thr d d

the e e e of ea has ee e . W e until ntir numb r _ th r ds b n us d h n Tying the Treadl e weav two e ead ar e e and e two w e. ing, blu th r s us d th n hit i w a e I t will be obsem ed th a t the lower h eddl e sticks2 and Th is nec essit a tes the use of t o shuttl es . I t i s lso und r

4 ar e t e to th e " ea e and 1 and 3 the l e t a w e e a the wa a the i d righ t tr dl , to f stood th t h n pr p ring rp ch in , spools of

“ e th r wa ar e a e d the a a two e and treadle. This is indic at d by e stars pl ac ed on the ve rp so pl c on spool r ck th t bl u ‘ 1 h a e th h W t two w e th r eads ar e ee e 0 1 wa e at one e. T e tic l lin s to e righ t of t e th rea ding draft . i h th is h it r l d rp d tim

1 1 8 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VING

2 1 5 2 1 Fi . 2 1 4 . 2 1 2 . 3 Fig . Fig g Fig

“ e Th n a e w as the G e E e . Figure 2 1 0 shows a serg . e warp a d woof should This p tt rn is commonly kno n oos y

— Two ea nd tie u r e a e the an ea ar e e as a e . be of wool . Th r ding a p a as indic t d i n The threading d tr dling don i ndic t d a d r ft . threads ar e drawn through each d ent .

F 2 1 1 h w a e e e e e e w a . The ea is igur s o s noth r s rg v Figure 2 1 4 shows a ca nvas weave. thr ding

F e 2 1 2 w a a e w e a ea e The e le i gur sho s p tt rn ov n on six tr dl don e the same as in previous p atterns . littl circ The e a a a e e loom . m thod of h ndling more th n fou r h rn ss s pla ced below and between th e group s of threadsonly indi be a e e e e ea e w . w ea e a. e a ill tr t d l ittl l t r I t is v ry int r sting v c ates th at a dent i n the reed is to be omitted a nd has no w ma e w e The wa and w hich y b e us d for i nt r coats . rp oof th referenceto the threading of e p a ttern . l T t ea r ea e ar e of woo . wo h r ds a e drawn th rough ch d n t of the ea ar e in I t will be observed th a t thr ds groups, four h th e a a w the ea e t e reed . Note e irr gul r w y i n hich tr dl s

“ a h ea aw in each . E ch group of four t r ds is dr n th rough ar e pressed down .

e e . e e e e the ee . e w e Figure 2 1 3 shows an interesting weave to be used in v ry oth r d n t of r d I n oth r ords , v ry oth r Th ea e e aca . e Th e t e w a e d en t of the reed is l eft v nt th r ds on h ddl we . e a a to ls d rk , , v rtic l s rip sh o s numb r of col e e e ea ee e the wa w e the a a sticks 1 and 2 m ak e one group and the threads on h ddl or d th r ds r l d in rp , h il horizont l d rk w 3 and 4 a e a e . ea strip e indic ates th a t th e sam e color i s used as woof . sticks m k noth r group This is cl rly sho n N O RWE GIAN PATTERNS 1 1 9

2 1 3 . 2 1 9 2 1 6 2 1 7 . Fig . Fig . Fig Fig

’ th h h n e e and e the a e a e a e the e a . W e wea t e ﬁ r st a d w a s i n dr ft n v ing, fourth oot thr d d ti d up s m oth r p tt rns , ea r b e a the a e e ew a f e e t and th r ds a e to e doubl e . m thod of h nging h rn ss s is som h t di f r n

W be a e “ e a a e a e . Figure 2 1 5 shows a very i nt eresting curtai n m a terial ill t k n P i n d t il l ittl l t r

e a e a n e wov n by using four h rn sses d th ree treadl s . Nor wegian Patterns The a e w the ﬁ r st a t the pl i n strip is sho n i n p r of The three p atterns which fol low sh ow th a t the D anish

ea a . e ea ma be ea e th r ding d r ft Thi s numb r of th r ds y i ncr s d a nd Norwegia n ways of writing p a tte rns ar e very m uch d e w e . The e w e a so as to m ak e any i th d sir d clos ly ov n b nds th e sam e. at the edges of the pl ai n stripe a r e obtain ed by d rawi ng Figure 22 0 shows a very i nteres ting p a ttern and draft two ea ea (l e . th r ds th rough ch n t b a - a e o e wh ich may e produced on fou r h rn ss l o m , using igh t

The op en work i s produc ed by drawi ng the th ree e ee the wa e ea one trea dl s. I n r l in g rp , igh t th r ds of color

ea h e e h e at th e a e a e ( e . Two th r ds , ld tog t r b s , th rough singl l n t ar e used ( say bl ue ) and th en eigh t th reads of wh i te. e wee th e a e a ( le be The sm al l circl es b t n groups i ndic t n t to th reads a r e d rawn th rough the eye of each h eddle and

’ Th tie-u and ea a r e d e a s a e e . e th The w ea om itt d p tr dling on i ndic t d a lso th rough each d en t of e reed . oof th r d i s in th a the e dr ft . also wound doubl e on the bobbins so th at ea ch tim e

2 1 6 2 1 7 2 1 8 a nd 2 19 a r e e e a e e a e h the h e two ea ar e a e I n Figs . , , giv n x mpl s of sh uttl p ss s th roug s d thr ds c rri d

\Vhile e e a ar e a t the a e e . five a nd si x h a rn ess p atterns . th s dr fts s m tim 1 20 FO O T—P OWER LO OM WEA VIN G A

The a a a e Ea ea a e e e ese t the a es e ee e an one w e. horizont l p r ll l lin s r pr n h rn s s , thr blu d hit ch th r d p ss s through w ar e the a e as e e Th . e e a a a e the e e a e e and one ea each . dent hich s m h ddl sticks v rtic l p r ll l y of h ddl , only thr d to of e e e h lin s repr s n t t e trea dles . The stars indicate the wa w ee e w ea ar e y h . W e ea t e reed h n ving, thr blu oof thr ds the ea es ar e e t the a The tr dl ti d o l mbs . li ttl e d ash es on woven and then One white. the vertical lines indicate the ord er in wh ich the treadl es I n warping for the p attern shown in Fig 2 2 2 two e ar e pressed down . This ord r of treadling is continued

n tw w e ea a r e wa e a t the a e e. h e e blue a d o hit thr ds rp d s m tim until t e d sir d amount of fabric is woven . Th e threading is don e by threading singly two bl u e and Figure 2 21 shows a p attern i n which the reeling is Two ea th en two white as indic ated in the draft . thr ds done by running th ree blu e threa ds and one white thread , e h Th e e wa a e wa ar e aw h ea e the e . on t e beam . e ntir rp i s m d up in this y, dr n t rough ch d nt of r d

2 22 i 1 Fig . F g . 2 2

1 2 2 FO O T-POWER LO OM lfVEAVI NG pa sses th rough the eye of th e ﬁ r st h eddle On the ﬁ r st 0 11 fron t h eddle sticks . The entire draft is thread ed by following this order : 2 23 Fig . The am ar e e one to ea we e e l bs ti d ch lo r h ddl stick ; The p attern i ndic ates according to th e l ittl e d ots th at the

a e the fi r st ea e the e l a is fourth l mb is ti d to tr dl , s cond mb ti ed to the second treadl e, the thi rd l amb i s ti ed to the ea e and the fir st a e the third tr dl , l mb is ti d to fourth ea e tr dl . 224 The figu r es j ust b elow the dots i ndic a te th a t the trea Fig .

e ar e e e w the e ﬁ r st 1 e 2 3 dl s pr ss d do n i n ord r of , th n , n 4 e h de a d . This order of tr adling i s kep t up until t e sired amount of m ateri al is woven ;

I n i 2 2 w th e l if F . 7 e a e a a ( g is sho n s m th r ding, but fer n e e t ord r of tying .

r I J ambS Lambs 1 and 2 a e tied to the ﬁ r st trea dl e. 22 5 Fig . 1 n r h La 1 and 2 a d 3 a e tied to t e secon d trea dl e. mbs

r h e e n 4 r e a e tied to t e third tr a dl . Lambs 2 a d a e ti d to th ea e e fou r th tr dl .

The e r essin r the ea e w th e ord r of p g, tr dl s is sho n by ﬁ gur es . i 2 2 9 th ea In F g . e thr ding is the sa m e as i n the two

t e Th r e a . e a a e e as w 2 26 pr vious p t rns l mbs ti d fol lo s Fig .

1 n 4 h ﬁ r st ea e 3 a d t e . , to tr dl n 2 a d 3 to th e second treadl e.

1 2 and th e 3 e a e . , to third tr dl 2 n 4 th e a e e e ea e e e w be a d to e fou r th tr adle. Whil e th is p tt rn r quir s tr dl s, th r ill

- 1 th ﬁfth ea e i ﬂ t e a the tie h . to e tr dl . 11 0 d ttici y in u nd rst nding p 2 the a e e 2 2 9 h w the a e ea a nd two wa to sixth tre dl . Figur s o s s m th r ding v s S WEDI SI I PATTERNS 1 3

“ ” i - Th ﬁ r s of t e up. e t shows each lower h eddle stick tied a to a tre dle. I n such case treadles 1 and 4 ar e p ress ed

wn the ﬁ r s e a e th t o e h do t tim , i ndic t d by e w on s . T e n ext 2 2 r Fig . 7 tim e treadles 1 and 2 a e pressed down a t the sam e tim e . , indic a ted by the two twos? The thi rd tim e treadl es 2 and

3 ar e e e w a e the two ee The pr ss d do n , indic t d by th r s .

t e - ea e 3 a nd 4 ar e e e d w a e four h tim tr dl s p r ss do n , indic t d A by the two fours . fter fol lowing this order once i t is gon e righ t over again and con tinued un til the desi re d

a a e a e mount of m t ri l is wov n . The oth er tying gives ex ac tly the sam e result b ec ause

the a a two la ar e e on e of f ct th t mbs ti d to e tr adl e. Thi s 2 28 Fig . l atter pl a n i s better a nd m ak es i t possibl e to accomplish

ea e e in the a much gr t r r sults mou n t of fabrics woven . ' the e t fou r atter ns 2 30 2 33 e the I n n x p , to inclusiv , e th a in e e Th e th r ading is e s m e as pr vious patt rns . e tr ad th ling i s done by following e ord er of numbering .

i 2 32 th e 5 ea a the ea e I n F g . e numb r m ns th t thi rd tr dl be e e w a nd e 6 a e the e is to p r ss d do n , numb r indic t s s cond e w treadl e p r ssed do n . i 2 34 the ea is e the a e as the I n F g . th r ding don s m i n

- 4 i . 2 2 two h arn ess l oo m draft sh own i n F g .

Irreg ul ar Threading

i 23 w the fi r st e a ea . I n F g . 5 i s sho n irr gul r th r ding The fi r st th rea d p asses th rough the fir st h eddle on the

e the e ea a e the fourth h ddl e stick , s cond th r d p ss s th rough

' e e the ea e first h eddl e on the thi rd h ddl stick , thi rd th r d go s

e the e e the b ack to the second h ddl e on fourth h ddl stick , 1 24 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G fourth th rea d to the second h eddl e on the th ird h eddl e

the fifth ea the fir st e e the sec stick , thr d th rough h ddl on e e the i ea the fir st e e ond h ddl stick , s xth thr d through h ddl 230 0 11 th e fir st e e the e e ea the mg: . h ddl stick , s v nth thr d through e e e the e e e and th e e s cond h ddl on s cond h ddl stick , igh th th thread through e second h eddle on the fi r st h eddle stick .

i 2 36 w a e e a ea ﬁr st In F g. is sho n noth r irr gul r th r ding ; b etween the 3 r d and 4 th h eddles and th en between the l st h h n O e t e t e ea . and 2 a. bs rve grouping of tr dling

Th ar e a inl i e he The e l ambs e ti d s < cat d by t dots . _

ea e ar e e e w as a e the ﬁ ur es The . 2 31 tr dl s pr ss d do n indic t d by g . Fig ﬁ r ea e h he st 1 e . T e e . 2 t tim e tr dl e is pr ss d down n xt No , h 2 The t e . 1 a a t e e . a a . third im No g in , fourth tim No g in

ﬁfth im 1 . Th e ﬁ e ar e e ee ea e t e No . e n xt v times b tw n tr dl s

n 4 The e e a the ﬁ r st and e ea 3 a d . n xt go s b ck to s cond tr

e e the e e dles . This ord r is k pt up until d sir d amount of w e m aterial is ov n . “ Figure 237 shows wha t is known as the Honey Comb ” e difﬁc lt in e the Weave. Th re will be no u y und rstanding Th ﬁr s th threading . e t fourteen threa ds ar e on e th ird

n e T h e e r e a d fourth h arn sses . e second fourt en thr ads a on th ﬁr n e a e e e the ef e w e st a d s cond h rn ss s . To produc f c t sho n in the ﬁnished p a ttern the entire wa rp is thread ed j ust as a a e e th e oo ma shown in the draft . I f a v ri tion is d sir d l m y be th readed so six inches will be the sam e as shown i n the

- m b e de ﬁnished p a tte rn . A four inch stripe ay e th r a d by Fig. 23 3 drawing 2 8 th read s th rough the h eddl es on the third and

h ﬁ n e fourth h arn esses and th en 2 8 on t e r st a d s cond . This

r The e is continu ed until the d esi ed width is obta in ed . n xt

1 26 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

F ig . 2 40

2 37 Fig .

2 41 Fig .

2 42 Fig .

2 39 Fig .

243 Fig . THREE- HARNESS SWEDISH PATTERNS 1 2 7

“ ’ a e w as the G e E e O e e the e p tt rn kno n o‘ o_ s y j bs rv ord r of

Th e e r e treadling . e tr adl s a e pr ssed down i n th ei r order

1 4 e a 1 a e the e from to , th n b ck to , indic t d by n umb r 5 ; ba ck to the fourth i ndicated by the n umber 8 ; back to 1 h h e t e e a e t e e 9 . numb r for thi rd tim , indic t d by numb r The second ch ange consists o f the reverse ord er of t e d r a ling . 2 45 Fig u re 2 42 shows a fou r - ha r ncss p a tt ern which may Fig .

‘ be a ccompl ished by using fou r treadl es or eigh t trea dl es .

e e the f e e th tie- f ea e ar e Obs rv di f r nc e i n e u p. I fou r tr dl s w h 1 4 e e e e a e . pr ss d do n i n t ir r gul r ord r, to e ea e 1 2 and 3 ar e all es e t tim tr dl s , , pr s d

a e a e the ee s me tim . This is indic t d by th r

ea e 1 2 and 4 ar e e e e w a e Tr dl s , , n xt p r ss d do n , indic t d by th ree twos . Th e ea e 1 3 and 4 and the e 2 3 e n x t ti me tr dl s , n xt ,

and 4 .

If eigh t trea dl es ar e used and ti ed as indica ted the work is more rapidly c arried 0 11 .

- Th e Figure 2 43 shows a four h a rn ess loom . e p a tt rn i s accomplish ed by tying and treadling as indica ted i n th e draft .

Three - Ham ess D raft

The am ateur weaver by this tim e has no doub t ga in ed su fﬁcient knowledge of the two and fou r -h a rn ess d rafts not “ ” only to do the threading successfully bu t also to tie-up n ‘ e O a for a y pattet n d sired . cc sion ally a draft app ea rs 1 2 8 FO O T-POWER LO OM WEAVIN G w w t e ee a e e as w Fi 2 1 5 . hich is rit n in thr h rn ss s , sho n in g .

' W e such is the a e the e e e ar e e as h n _ c s upp r h ddl sticks ti d i ' w F . 2 44 Th sh o n in g . e tying of the trea dl es i s the sam e

. 248 as for atter n a ea Fig p s l r dy described .

F e 2 45 w the Wa ﬁve a e e r igur sho s y h rn ss s a e tied . Figure 2 46 shows the tie-up for a six - h a rness draft

nd Fi 2 4 w h ti -u n a . 7 e e A g sho s t p for seven h a rn esses . y of h t e a e ma be e as Fi 2 53 . The bov y ti d sh own in g . . pull eys used may be purch ased of any d eal er in h ardware ma e f e n b a e O w o a e a w a e. or y m d o d , b ing t n d on ood l th Fi 249 Figure 2 48 shows a plain diagon al weave in three g .

h n h i - harn esses . T e threading is simpl e a d t e t e up consists i n tying a trea dle to each lower h eddl e stick i 2 44 w the a th The drawing sh own in F g . sho s w y e upp er h eddl e sticks ar e tied . Figure 2 49 shows a th reading quite d ifferent from

2 4 . th at shown i n Fig . 8 The fi r st thread i s drawn through the eye of the fir st h e the e ea heddle on t e thi rd h ddle stick , s cond thr d th rough th e the fi r st e e the e e e the e ye of h ddl on s cond h ddl stick , third thread goes back to the eye of the second h eddle on the third h eddl e stick .

The n ext three threads ar e on h eddl e sticks 1 and 2 . Figure 2 50 shows the draft and sample of an interest ing curtai n m ateri al . " e n e w the ee ea h The Skip one d n t a d th n dra thr thr ds on The threading i s don e by following t e draft .

a e e 1 The e e 2 and 3 the a e e . th reads on h rn ss s and 2 m ake the pl ain weave. h ddl sticks through s m d nt w e ea h S a e and e aw the one ea the ﬁr st some h at irr gul ar th r ding m akes t e stripe. kip d nt th n dr thr d on W e ea the ee aw one ea t e e e a e and aw ee h n th r ding r d dr th r d h rough h ddl sticks through a d nt , skip d nt dr thr , h e t a . ea ent e aw one and aw t ee etc. ch d for pl in strip skip , dr , skip dr hr ,

130 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVI N G

in the construction of the loom . The loom should be abou t four inch es high er in ord er to give sufﬁcient sp ace for the m two sets of l ambs . This ay be brough t about by adding

- e f h For all a a four inch pi ce to each leg o t e loom . ordin ry purposes the origin al working drawing of the loom ah

' h h e swer s all conditions . By using this met od t e h eddl horses ar e don e away wi th and each h a rness is t ied so i t must pull eith er up or down wh en pressure is appli ed to h e h e w th e e e ar e t e treadl . T e roller ov r hich e h ddl hors s hung is removed and repl ac ed by the app ara tus shown at

A e a e e w at Fi . A i 2 . and B F . 53 , g d t il d s ction i s sho n g

an e - a e e e ee e e 2 54 . If ight h rn ss loom is d sir d , sixt n pi c s i e F 2 4 . E e e r e ar e construct d as sh own i n g . 5 ight of th s a pl ac ed to the righ t - upp er h alf of the loom and the oth er e eight to the l eft upp r h alf . The va rious sections ar e h eld

a - (l owel as w at 1 and 2 i n pl ace by a h lf inch rod sho n , " i Th ar e two e e 7 - 8 2 . e e F g . 53 rods support d by pi c s of

e w Fi 2 55 . m apl e construct d as sho n in g . This sort of fram e work repl aces the roll er as shown i n the ﬁnishe d i 2 56 . l oom in Fg.

The Tie- Up

Fi 2 53 N 2 i Re . n o. 1 o turning to g , loops of block g c rd ar e tied and h ung from ea ch out er end of the l evers as

n Fi 2 53 . T o e th r shown at C a d D in g . w nds of e cord a e

a e e ea end the e e e as w f st n d to ch of upp r h ddl sticks, sho n n F Th and e ar e e th me at E a d . e loops nds ti d j ust e sa h a F he as the treadles ar e ti ed to t e l mbs . rom t inn er ends ’ El GU T- Il A RX ESS S ll EDI SII PATTERNS 1 3 1

the e e H and G a e e o e one a e ar e a of l v rs , pi c of blocking c rd is ti d , p tt rn dr wn down while the oth er h arn esses ar e end one a nd the e end the e as w F to , o th r to oth r sho n . rom aw u . 0 a e a a T d r n p N p rt r m ins st tion a ry . he weigh ts pr e ea a e e e e the we set i l ch loop pi c of blocking cord xt nds to lo r v ous y m ention ed for d ra wing the h a rn esses back i n pl ace a a e wee the a e and e the a e a r e e e e a Fi . of l mbs by p ssing b t n h rn ss ti s s m n o long r n c ss ry . g 2 53 shows only a four as all he e a e ee a e . Ea we ea ot r conn c tion s h v b n m d ch lo r tr dl e loom . This is don e to avoid complic a tion in the e e e an e a the a e a s in the two e h ddl stick ti s to upp r l mb s m a a . An e ma b xpl n tion y numb r y e use d. This m ethod of

- n - a d a e . L o a r e n w i four h rn ss looms o ps of blocking cord o t e u p is esp eci a lly d esira bl e when a n odd numb er of be d a w the e the ea e one e dr n th rough hol s of tr dl s in a ch . The clle a e e e , sticks ( h rn ss s ) is us d . I t does away with pulle y s a nd i e e e F 2 56 . Th h ddl hors s , g . e fac t th at each p art of the h a rn ess m ust eith er pul l up or down m a kes a m ost

e e e a the ea p rf ct sh d , thus voiding skipping of th r ds, so wea w e th e e comm on i n ving h n sh d is not p erfec t .

2 54 F e 2 57 w a e e e a e e Fig . igur sho s v ry i nt r sting p tt rn produc d

e e ﬁv e e h i - by i th r e or six h a rn ss s . T e t e up for ea ch is given e a a r e e th e th upp r l mbs ti d to e tr adles the sa m e as i n every i n e dra ft . “ ” e tie-u the a e wee th The e ead indi 1 ated th ﬁ r oth r p, cord p ssing b t n e lower l ambs . ord r of tr ling is by e gu es j ust “ The we a a r e a e the ea e he e w the a th ti - l o r l mbs lso ti d to tr dl s by using t b lo dots ind ic ting e e up . e the e The a e a loops not us d i n tying upp r l ambs . m t ri l produc ed may be used i n a counterpan e

B a wa all a e e a the lS we as a a e so e e . y tying loom in this y h rn ss s m king l l i n b th rob , i f d sir d

2 5 Fig . 6 FOO T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G b een very c a refully work ed out a nd found practic a l i n

“ A th e a e ar e e e ever y resp ect . mong dr fts giv n thos suit d

u h olster in d11 ess oods t0 11r elin ea to p g, _ g , g, h vy sui ting,

“ m 1 i 2 59 h e e e 11 ea e w ﬁnd end su F g. a etc. T e co ts , int r st d v r ill no of o e e w a e a w e . g stions This, t g th r ith littl origin l ity , ill greatly simplify the wo 1 king out of new and a ttractive p atterns . I t is not n ec essary to con hu e the work only to c ertain Ma e a a e wo e the ﬁnest m ateri als . ny tim s p tt rn rk d out in

2 00 Fig .

d of th reads may be work ed out in a very coarse thread a n made to serve a n entirely different purpos e from wh a t it 2 6 1 Fig . e was origin ally intend d . he To enj oy weaving great c are must be ex er cised in t

“ - All a be ade e e . tie u p . p rts must m to p ul l v nly To do th is the blocking cord must b e used and the m ethod of

1 tying must be observed in orde1 to adj ust rea dily . SWEDI SH PATTERNS 1 35

2 6 Fig . 2

2 6 Fig . 6

Fig . 2 63

F i g . 2 6 7 Fig . 2 64 1 36 FO O T- POWER LOOM W EA VIN G

2 7 1 Fig . 2 68 Fig .

272 Fig . 2 69 Fig .

. 2 70 Fig 2 73 Fig.

1 38 FO O T-POWER LO OM WEAVI NG

2 80 Fig .

2 7 7 Fig .

. 1 1 P ‘g ' 2 8 1 Fig : 2 78

‘ 2 7 9 Fig . 2 82 Fig . SWEDISH PATTERNS 1 39

28 3 Fig .

2 86 Fig .

2 4 Fi ' 8 g 2 3 Fig . 7

2 88 2 85 . Fig . Fig FO OT- POWER LOOM WEAVIN G

292 Fig .

2 89 Fig .

2 93 Fig .

2 90 Fig .

294 Fig . '

Fig . 2 91

' FO O T—POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

303 Fig .

3 01 Fig . 304 Fig .

Fi 3 02 g . 305 Fig . WEDI SH PATTERNS S 1 4

Fig . 306 Fig . 309

Fig . 307

Fig . 31 0

Fig . 308 3 1 1 Fig . FO O T— POWER L O OM VIN G

" 1 2 . Fig . 3 F 1 3 1 5

( o 0 F i . 3 1 3 3 1 6 g Fig .

1 4 6 FOOT-POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

32 T Fig . 4

32 7 Fig .

32 5 Fig .

3 28 Fig .

2 6 Fig . 3 SWEDISH PATTERNS 14 l

332 Fig .

333 Fig .

334 Fig .

33 1 Fig . - 1 4 8 FO O T- POlVER LO OM WEAVIN G

335 Fig .

337 Fig .

1 50 FOO T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

Fig . 347

351 Fig . —l TTERN 1 51 S W EDISH P. S

254 Fig .

352 Fig .

355 Fig .

3 56 Fig . V 1 52 F T-P WER il O O O LO OM E/ l. VING

358 Fig .

! ‘ ’ ] - ll EA C FOOT POWER LO OM VIN G

Fig . 372

3 1 Fig . 7 37 4 Fig . SWEDI SH PATTERNS 155

3 8 Fig . 7

3 9 Fig. 7 1 56 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

38 2 Fig .

1 58 FO O T- POWER LO OM W EA VIN G S W EDISH PA TTER NS 1 59

398 Fig .

Fig . 395

Fig . 399

F i g . 3 97 1 60 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

' - Fig . 4o1

Fig . 402

Fig . 403

1 62 FO O T- PO W ER LO OM WEAVIN G

F ig 4 1 6 Fig . 41 3

Fig . 41 5

Fig . 4 1 8 ‘ S lVlzDl Sl l P ATTERNS 1 6 23

Fi 4 2 1 g . D amask Weav e repeats as shown by the nine slanting lines . The third m - is w c Figure 42 5 shows a most interesting ten harness da change the sam e as th e first , hi h threads fro th e mask weave which may be used i n weaving napkins and first through the ten th . tablecloths . The draft is written j us t as the Norwegians write it . There will be l ittle or no difﬁculty i n aecom plishing the weave after the threading and treadling are understood . I t has already been stated that each hori z ontal line

r means a pai r of heddle sticks . Th e draft shows that the e

ivi two I are ten , d ded into sections or groups , ma rked

fir st u fir st five and I I . The gro p consists of the harnesses fi and the second group of the second ve. The threadingis i ndic a te d by the slan ting lines which

z a cross th e hori ontal p rallel lines . Each hori zon ta l line

crossed by a slanting line means a thread i n each heddle . The fi r st thread passes through the eye of the fi r st fi r s E heddle on the t heddle sticks . ach thread is taken in l of fi l st its regular order, passing through the eye the heddle on each pair of heddle sti cks fr om the fir st th rough 42 5 Fig . th e tenth .

The draft indicates that thi s order is again repeated . The threading now changes an d the heddles 0 11 the ﬁ r st The entire pa ttern is made u p by repeating the draft i 42 ﬁ . F 5 . ve harnesses only are used This i s continued for nine shown in g .

' 1 66 FO O T- PO WER L OOM WEAVING

B o r d e r .

B o d y .

4 28 h - ness m s e v e Fig . Eig t Har Da a k W a

w c two re . The lo est pulley ontrols the middle h arnesses , N o h eddle horses are quired tw Fi 42 o w w . 7 w th e one above controls the harnesses , one at each side The dra ing sho n i n g sho s the ropes tied

two . of the center ones The third p ulley controls two other to one end of the heddle sti cks .

42 w a - harnesses i n a sim ilar way as j ust mentioned . I n the cas e Figure 8 sho s the d r ft for an eigh t harness da

of two two w w Sw wa . small pulleys the rope passes over the , one mask eave ritten in th e edish y In this draft

w two end tied to one harness and the other to another . Th e the space bet een lines represents a pair of heddle

' two ﬁr c top pulleys con trol th e st and last harnesses . sti ks . ‘ ’ — ’ - M 1 67 I s l GI I T II ARNI LSS DA ASK ll EAVE

4 29 Fig .

o ) 0 1‘ o f v ' r e th reads t left . times the entei is ' l l ll l ll l pouted depends u po n th e width the ma teria l i s to be when

e A ee nte r o r ﬁnish d . y fter th e , bod , has been th readed the

o f . desi red number times , the border i s again th readed

Nuin ber of Threads

I n d o ing work o f this kind there sh o uld he a t l r as t

neh A 1 5 43 threads used to an i . n umber reed may be

n win c ( . used , d g th ree th reads th rough ea h len t

Tie - U p

u 2 3 1 w o n wa y to tie u r o ne o f Fig re sho s e p, usin e set

lambs . I f Figure 2 53 shows the d o uble se t o f la mbs . the d o u ble set o f lambs is used the ( l o ts i nd icate the upper

w ( o in lambs tied to the treadles . The squa res ithout l ts

' o ( li ate th e lower lambs tied to th e tr nulles . This meth d “ ” w - The th reading begins at th e righ t and is read to a rd o f iie np has al ready been explained . \V ﬁ r s e i left . hen the t part is th readed , b g n a t th e O e of ea o rd r Tr dling of the sec nd . “ ﬁ ur es ust o w the ( o c tie- up Th e a rro w i ndicates the end o f the border . The g j bel l ts ind i ating the s w o whieh s e d w . The center begins with th e a rrow a nd i n cl udes al l sho th e rder i n th e t readles a re pre do n 1 68 FO O T- POWER LO OM W EA VING

1 7 0 FO O T- PO WER LO OM WEAVI NG

- - times as is necessary to give the desi red wid th . The border n o f tr eadlin v ﬁ r s t tie p and order g are gi en for the one only . v also m ay be repeated se eral times . w Th e eaver has , n o doubt , learned by this time tha t the

threading indicates the treadling . ‘Vhil 4 1 e F . 3 432 4 4 igs , , a nd 3 do not show the

w ow regula r damask eave, th ey do sh good examples of linen toweling and even good e xamples of materials tha t “ ” u - m igh t be used i n pholstering . The th reading and tie np for i 43 1 i 4 F . F 3 2 g and g . a re the sam e . The d ifferen ce in pattern i s bro u gh t out b v a difference i n the o rder of

treadling . Fig . 435 The s tars on the verti cal lines indicate the order of

treadling . “ " n - 4 i a d u for Fi . 3 3 4 4 The thread ing tie p g and F g . 3

r e h c . a t e same . The differen e in pa ttern is brough t o ut

( me - ‘ by a li i enee i n treadling . Figu re 4 235 sh ows a ver y good diagonal weave in eigh t

. \Vhi1e t no t o for tone lin et e ha rnesses th is draf is g od g, , xc l c u i t i s e eptiona l y good for oats , s iting , etc . Th e th read t‘ ” tie - n i 4 u F . 35 . i ng , p a nd treadli g are all rea d f rom g

F u 4 x c ig re 3 6 is a most e ellent draf t for linens . I t is not a dam ask wea ve but very satisfa ctor y when used in Fig . 4 3 6 - w . u to els Threading, tie p, and treadling a re all read from

the dra ft .

T able Mat

F u 4 3 w a 3 ig re 8 sho s a t ble mat woven of No . mercer

z o t w Fi . i d cotton warped i n two colors . The draf sho n in g ~ Figure 43 0 shows the threading for a ten ha r ness 4 3 7 indicates only two changes in th e groupi ng of the w w . d e . w . mask eave There are th ree arrangemen ts sho n . The th rea s The colors used are gr en and golden bro n WEAVI NG TABLE MA T 1 7 1

- 437 e . of e n Fig . Tabl Mat Draft Patt r

ﬁ r w 1 3 . s The selvage of green The t group of four th reads , The plai n eave is done by tying lambs to “ ” A ow 2 4 marked , is of golden br n . the righ t m iddle treadl e, and a nd to th e left middle “ ” B . . The next four threads , ma rked , a re green treadle

ﬁ r A nd B . , st a F 4 3 8 w ﬁnished w This is repeated th ree times then igure , sho ing th e mat , ill give the i t wi ll be observed tha t the th reads r u n in groups of w a n o f wa in w c o eaver , idea the y h i h the treadles a re p A w o w . . c tour , al ays bei ng of g lden bro n and B of green er a ted to produ ce the design as given . The verti al bands

o z Figu re 43 8 req uires 4 08 th reads o f two colors to be are u n changeable . The h ri ontal bands may be made w o c 2 0 w 1 -2 a nd 3 - 2 w arped as ab ve des ribed , a number reed , one pattern any idth by repeating , al ays using the binder

f . th read to a den t and two selvage th read s to a den t o f. the a ter each pattern th read

- - fi r s . 4 t four and th e last fou r dents of the d raft The o ther combina tions a re 1 4 and 3 . 3 w w . The oof i s th e same material as th e a rp , a No c The woof i s al l of the sam e olor . n er i o c finer l er c z ed cott n . The binder m ust be a m u h I t i s the wa y th e wa rping is d o ne a wl the t readl ing f c o co o o . F r thread and of a d i ferent lor the a bove l rs , an tha t makes th e pattern . o o orange binder works i n very harm n i usl y . ’ t ma t f ct w The pa ttern lambs are tied i n the to l lmving o rde r The able has the e fe of double eaving done I a y s ix~ha r ness l ' O with fou r ha rnesses . t i s re ll a pattern 1 and 2 to th e fi r s t treadle . w a - ( l ueed o . A 3 and 2 to the seco nd tread le . to f ur li ttle experimenting ill suggest very t o f c o f t e w 1 a nd 4 to the th ird treadle . grea va riety ombinations s ripes and squa r s hich o f o ma wo o u t. c 3 and 4 to th e fo u rth t readle . the operat r y rk Th e ombination th read FOO T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G 2

439— n s e R ug Fig . Fi i h d 438— n s e Fig . Fi i h d Mat

1 74 FO O T- PO WER LO OM WEAVING

— 4 42 Sea e . of e n Fig . Sh ll Draft Patt r

x w ' w h u 1 4 ne t pressed do n and the h ite t read is passed th rough It req ires 8 th reads for one repeat . th e shed . w tw - E w ml o . 3 0 a The arp is of a ply No gyptian t ine , ~ ' two w th l e b ue . th c Treadle is next pressed do n and used e woo f z c . r is of a N o . 5 mer eri ed ot ton There a eth irt y

' ' Treadle three is pressed down and the white passed through c w u oi 1 5 th reads to the i n h dra n thro gh the dents a N o . u c n u h the sh ed This order of treadling is on ti ued th ro g out two . reed , threads to th e dent l thewea in ' i v i u w F . 4 9 3 . g of th e entire j gsho n in g The lambs are tied to th e lo wer heddle sticks . I

- Figure . 4 4 1 Shows th e same th i but a differen t The lambs are tied to the treadles in the follo wing ; blu e ' nd w order of treadling Instead of using a hite for order : w w . w v the oof , tan and bro n are used Th e ea ing i s started Lambs 1 and 3 a PC tied to th e ﬁ r st treadle . way Fi : 43 9 c n in the same as i n g Lambs 2 and 3 are tied to the se o d treadle .

“ ' A of one co w fter the band lor is as ide as i s desired , Lambs 1 an d 4 are tied to the third treadle . c r i' ey e se. ha n e is the opposite olor is made to This p g Lambs 2 and 4 are tied to the fo u rth treadle . sa nre polor u t e brough t about by passing the thro gh h shed Lambs 1 and 5 are tied to th e ﬁfth treadle . {

Th x c . w . e t ice order of treadling is e a tly the same Lambs 2 and 5 are tied to th e si x th t readle .

L 1 G ar e . Sea Sh ell Pa tt er n ambs and tied to the seventh treadle “ Lambs 2 and (i are tied to the eigh th treadle . w i 44 2 is six Ji r n s Th e draft sho n i n F g . that of a a es Th e plain weave is done by tying”

L 1 2 . The draft sh o ws tliat- ten tread les are req u ired to r o ambs and to th e righ t m iddle treadle _ p

i L s 3 4 5 o to . F 4 4 . d uce the pattern shown in g . 3 amb and the left m iddle treadle DAMA SK WEAVES 1 75

4 ﬁ ni h Figure 4 3 sh ows the s ed Sea Shell . I t is a close w be w w w eave and may used for indo side drapes , pillo tops , w table runners , and because of the closeness of the eave

c i t may very suc essful ly be used in upholstering .

I t i s perhaps the most . difﬁcult to weave because o f ~ “ " t1 l I f - u th e six harnesses and ten ad es . th e double tie p

2 53 e w difﬁ cu lty suggested in Fig . is us d , there ill be no i n secu ring a good shed .

An iner cer iz d 5 e . y shade of No . cotton may be used

The draft i tself indicates th e order of treadling . I t will be remembered that each dark sq uare indicates a woot t ﬁ r st 1 a r e h read . In the combination of threads and 3 a given . This means tha t the tre dle controlling ha rnesses 1 and 3 i s pressed down t11 1ce for the pattem th1 eads with a tl1 1' e l S inc binder after each pattern at . e thi s method of exp1 essing the wading of a ( 111 1 1ft has previously been most ca1 efully expl ained i t 11 ill not be necessa1 y to agai n go into detail a t this time . The six harness patterns (10 not require to be woven so ﬁnel as u A 2 4 y the fo r harness designs . number reed , o ne t c . th read to the dent , makes a very ine fabri

Figure 4 44 shows the d raft. for wha t i s known as the “ ” V - har ncss irginia Beauty , to be transposed into a si x draft . To do this let th e

- 2 - - Combination 1 4 0 0 111 bination 1 6 and 2 6 . -4 = 1 - - Combination 3 Combina tion 5 a nd 2 5 . ‘ b t o - = Co nbin io 2 - 4 o m ina i n 2 3 1 at 11 1 4 a nd .

‘ io m in tio - c111binat n 1 o b a n 1 3 and 2 3 . 1 i1 r l1t tl 1 a ft 11 o w 4 45 th rough the , i th th e f l lo ing lt as a 1 esu .

443 — Sea e Fig . Sh ll 1 76 FOO T- POWER LO OM WEAVI NG

— 444 V n Be u . ou ness Fig . irgi ia a ty F r Har

— 445 V n B e u . Six ness Fig . irgi ia a ty Har

’ ’ ’ ’ w 3 s 5 s 7 s 9 w - Th e designs ritten i n , or s or here The Tie Up , , , o those multiples appear i n the design , are m re complicated - u in wa The tie p the pattern is foun d the same y wa i f transposed as written . The simplest y is to make ’ ’ ’ for four heddle drafts . so a 2 s 4 s 8 s . such a draf t over that i t re ds in , , , etc

- e a two 1 6 is tied to the firs t treadle . I n r arranging draft an additional one or may

‘ - be 2 6 is tied to the second treadle . h ave to added or th e draft may be red uced for a smaller

- 1 5 is tied to the thi rd treadle . design .

- e 2 5 is tied to the four th treadle . The plain weave is found by ch cking th rough the

- 1 4 ﬁfth . t w is tied to the treadle draf , allo ing th e heddle stick th at contains every other

- 2 4 is tied to the sixth treadle . thread ti e to one treadle and the opposite half of the

- 1 3 is tied to the seventh treadle . th reads ti e to th e other middle treadle .

- 2 3 the e . — is tied to eigh th treadl For example the ﬁ r st thread appears 0 11 heddle No .

-u w w Tie p for the plai n eave is as follo s 1 . 6 . One and . The next th read is on heddle No si x can

- 1 2 to the right m iddl e treadle . not be used together in the plain weave because two

3 45 6 th l eft . to e middle treadle threads would be brought down together . ms t The th ird thread is on the second heddle . The T o Transpose a Fou r Heddle to a Six He ddle Draft and third threads may be used together because the second D esi gns best suited to transpose from fou r to si x 6 c w . th read which is on heddle No . omes bet een Ch ecking w w ’ ’ i ’ heddles are those ritten in t o s , four s , ant eigh t s , or through the draft the plain weave is found to be as above

s . even multipl e . stated

ﬂ 1 78 7 2 UBL PiiTI E'RN AV ‘ 0 E WE IN G.

Weav D ou o h - ing ble Cl t Through experimenting with th e plain double tie up

l One l t two shuttles to w earns tha only plain double cloth can bewoven I t requires eave double cloth , one for In w “ f . el oth the white thread and th e other for the black : other ords , no change is possible The ' ' ac 0 11 w W is r ea d weavin b e ins th roughou t is bl k o n e side and hite on the oth er . hen all y, g g by drawing down all w Topr oduce a change it will be necessary to add four more a as shown in . th e hi te thread and h lf the bl ack , Fig h 44 A c eddles . 6 4 . n , treadle bla k thread is ow passed th rough the Figure 447 shows1 a double woven pattern which may shed , thus formed . This begins th e black cloth and is on ‘ w 8 w w the upper side of the weavingf The white cloth i s to be be produced ith heddles , fou r of hich ill give the ’ ' lack s u ar e w t b q s and fou r the hite . The draft wri ten below form ed on the underside . I n order to bring th is abo ut i 44 the a F . 7 w w th e - a w a w w e p ttern , g , is ritten ou t i n full , hile draft one h lf th e h ite thre ds are dra n do n , the ther half ‘ ‘ r at s c . w c r u as w in th e right is ve y much condensed, thus using less pa e of th e hite and all the bla k emaining p, sho n Fi 44 3 . 6 . g , treadle Th e War p A w no hite th read is w passed th rough the shed . The warp m ay be of the regular four - ply carpet warp The nex t thread in the plai n cloth is to be a black ' l r s in two co o . I t is reeled and handled throughou t as de ll th r e Jeft l 4 . one . To do this a the black a ds up i n tread e scribed in th e weaving of plain double cloth . There should must be brough t down together with all the white th1 eads 32 36 e c - e w t be from to thr ads per in h , one half b ing hi e and ' wn 2 . A now as sho i n treadle black th read is ; passed “

. Two the other half black threads , one black and one through the shed . w e w 1 6 0 11 hit , are dra n th rough each dent of a number 1 th The fou thread must be another wh ite one . The 1 1 . 1 eed ' 8 . required shed is made by bringing down the white th 1 eads

1 dl B 1 e 1 n0 i le T he ea not brough t dow n by t ea e 3 . y p ss (10 11 n t ead Thr ding

' r i 1 , a w s a i 447 w the igh t shed is made nd a hite thread passed The dr ft bel ow F g . is so written as to sho the

' 1 l t1 dlin follo11 d 1 o . 0 ( ei ea a e . thr ugh If this of g is , double 1111111be1 of threads that pro du ce ea ch part of the ﬁnish ed ‘

1 ' 11 11 11 bel o11 . b lack s uar e w cloth i s oven h ch is black on the top and hite pattern . The little q in the lo er left hand corner of th e ﬁ nished pa ttern is taken care of by th e ﬁ r st D oub e a te Weav l P t rn ing s uar e above fou r th reads in th e draft . The l ittle wh ite q

To understand double pattern weaving i t is best to i t is taken bare of b y the sec ond fou r threads . This i s

’ “

ﬁr st desc1 1 bed w a e s . thread a loom , as i n the e vi n g of plai n r peated four time In the condensed form at the righ t

‘ ‘ ar t b f e w doubl e cloth . this p the draft is expr ssed by using a brace i th

1 80 FO O T— PO W ER LO OM WEA VIN G

ﬁ ur es the g telling the number of times this order of threads tain portion of th e draft is repeated . The vertical spacing

. w is to be repeated depends upon th e number of oof threads . B WB W Th e draft at the right tells i n a very simple way the w hole story of the pattern a t hand . The heddle sticks are m t nu bered at the lef of th e threading draft. The treadles

1 are numbered at the top . J1 st below is the treadli ng for

the ﬁr fron t border . The st treadle is pressed down and a w h ite th read is passed through the shed . The second treadle is p ressed down and a black th read is passed

. 3 r d 4th 5 6th 7 th 8 through the shed Th e , , th , , and th are

taken in their regular order . Thi s order of treadling is r e ‘

' Gr ou ll 1 p peated f0 u1 tim es . The remainder of the treadling draft

is shown to the left .

Tie- Up

- u w a 8 7 G Th e tie p part of the draft sho s th t heddles , , 3 to ﬁr st s 8 4 3 1 and are tied the treadle, heddle and to etc the second treadle, . The black squares simply tell the black heddles and At the cross the wh ite heddles tied to a certain treadle . tention is c alled to th e fact tha t all the white threads are

4 i - Fig . 4 8 T e Up 1 3 5 7 w all on heddl e sticks , , and , hile th e black threads

2 4 (3 8 . a re found on heddle sticks , , and ~ 1 Obse1 ve the threading for the long narrow strip of Ex ana on of Tie- U . O 8 7 pl ti p 6 u . black nly h eddles , , , and 5 a re sed The wh ite w 4 3 2 1 . strip above is cared for by using only h eddles , , , and I n order to ork intelligently the one operating the Note the way the changes an d the repea ts are expressed 10 0 111 should nnder s ta nd the reasons for tying certai n hed

in wa . For the condensed y of writing the draft . dles to certain treadles convenience the treadles may

i 4 48 e and . The weaver must remember tha t the hori z ontal spacing be group ed as shown in F g . and mark d I I I

an es s o r ou ed . in y d ign is controlled by the number , of time a cer The harnesses may als be g b and marked I and I I

1 8 2 FO O T- PO WER LO OM WEA VING

" a of w w n black th re d passes th rough th e shed , half th e black thread of th e hite square beneath the black is h ite a d w w . W threads are up and th e other h al f do n hen a white i s oven in by raising all the black threads i n the group ,

‘

s 5 w c d. thread passe through the shed halt of the white th reads treadle , an d half th e h ite as indi ate Consider a t

' n that ar t -u w t l th roughou t the patter a re up and the other half down . presen t only p of the tie p i thi n the dot ed ines

' ‘ ‘ Care must be exercised in not drawi ng up the saine threads a nd marked Group I I .

' . two w Wo tw i n successive hite o f th reads or o black . I n order to find the white th reads to be rai sed i t is filler w w b t . 3 . The th ird thread is a hite and is oven i n e neces sary to refer to readle No . It is found that the low Al . l dr a11 11 w t w F 448 was d. th e black square th e black must be up out lo es hite th read , igure , last raise Treadle ' wa 1 11 G 1 0 I l11 ’ 11 ) t 1 d . w “ of the y, as is indicated 1 , treadl e Hal f 5 must leave this white thread do n . hen all the blacks o f di w the whi te m ust be a n up . I t is here that ca re m ust or whites in a certain group are used all th e others are not to e 11l1 e was w be taken tak the sam e it as taken hen left down . 11 eavin w th 1 ead The 11 tl1 1 g in the last hite second hite ead c All w 6 . Treadle No . arries a black th read the h ite efor e d1 a1vn l11 te thl ead is th er up and every other 11 threads in Group I I are left down all the others outside t , th roughou t he pattern . The remaining black th1 eads are E w the group are raised . very other black thread ithin the (10 11 11 c Th left as indi ated on th e thi1 d treadle . e fourth group and also those outside the group a re raised as indi thi ead ther ef0 11 e the w 1 0 11 ) is black ; al l hite th reads in G 1 r catea on t eadle 6 . l 1 he 1 h I are left down . A l the 0 t 1 wh ite t r eads ai e brough t 7 w . ' Treadle carries a hite th read u . th k fir st p Half of eblac are up . Th e black at top treadle All Al c w o . 4 l the bla ks ithi n the gr up are raised blacks is left down because i t was brough t up on trea dle 2 . The ' ' ' w w - outside th e group are left down . Half the h ites ithi n second black is b r Ough t up and every

‘ and outside t he group are raised . other black thread th roughout isbrough t 11 11 as is indicated o r 4 I n I e u “ ca a n si G w . 8 ea e G . t dl , roup The treadle roup , h n sed Treadle No rries a bl ck thread ; therefore all the All w o r G t w . . w i n thei r regular order , produce the large square The hites i n roup I I mus be do n the other hites E wi o1l t ( u w . . c ler must be repeated ntil the desired squa re is oven must be raised very other bla k , both thi n and

side th e group m ust be raised . Group II I t i s now evident that the treadles i n G ro u p I I when G Fi 4 48 w w c roup I I , g , h ich i s indicated by the dotted repeated over and over ill produ e the second change i n c ﬁ r st li nes , takes are of the smaller black square . Th e the pattern . D O UBLE WEAVI N G 1 83

The Loom

The 10 0 111 used for double weaving should be equipp ed w the d ﬁxtur es ith ouble set of lambs and the overhead , as 2 2 54 2 w . 58 55 . sho n in Figs , and By this arrangemen t no p art of th e harnes s remains

i 11 1 0 11 w stationary , but is pulled e ther 1 do n , th us producing On difﬁcul t bu t o f a goo d shed . e great y in having one set lambs is tha t the heddles do not return to thei r original position after being pulled down . This is specially t ru e when th e harness consists of

1 eigh t 0 1 more h eddles .

O th er Mat eri als

I n m os t of the old - time doubl e woven coun terpa nes the

1 1 1 has ( 0 10 1 9 1 warp i s of wool while the white i s cotto n . I t e b en found p ractical to make the en ti re warp of cotton ,

o w w . using the desi red colors . The col red oof may be of ool If both wool and cotton are used there should be two

w one w o e w distinct a rps , the of o l b ing placed on one arp beam and the one of cotton placed 0 11 another beam . The

4 4 . An beam s may be placed as shown i n Fig . 9 extra pair of wa rp beam brackets i s placed below the pair al ready on 4 50 Fig . o w the 10 0 111 . Pegs a re used j ust ab ve th e ends of the lo er beam to preven t it from being d ra wn upward a s the warp i 449 w e o f w A F . . d . See is tigh tene , g ool bea m to m e t the tension the hite The two beams a re a bsolutely necessary unl ess the When two beams a re use d i t is best to pl ace the w s w u w 0 11 . S a ool used ha a very ha rd t ist , th s preventing i t from of ool the upper beam epar te lease rods a re used w 11 1 11 11 1 c stretching . and ends of the hi te 1 a re a rried righ t over the blue

Th e sepa rate beams make i t po ssible to tigh ten the warp bea m . 1 84 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVI N G

This thread may be h ad either bleached or unbleached .

Figure 4 50 shows a ver y simple eigh t heddle pattern .

‘ The threading dr aft is written above the pattern and the “ T h -u w treadling draft iswri tten at the left . e tie pi s sho n epe a t r om Ar ' o f r and to the left of the threading draft . The black squares

452 Fig .

crosses show the number of black and the number of wh ite

' heddles tied to each treadle . Fig ure 4 51 shows another interesting eigh t heddle dou

ble weave . The enti re th reading and also the treadling

dr afts are writte n in the condensed form .

W ﬁr st ak u I t will be observed th at th e ﬁ r st part of each treadling hen threading, a thread is t en from the bl e

A r a . and then from th e white beam . very supe ior thread draft takes c re of the fron t border w w Sw t If a pillow top is desi re d the border must be repeated for double eaving, kno n as iss Tidy cot on , number

1 2 1 5 W around th e entire center . or , may be purchased of the estern Thread Com Th e borders a t the sides must be cared for in the a E i . p ny , lg n , Illinois

' ’ 1 8 6 FO O T - PO W ER LO OM ll EAVI NG

ﬁ r s The t treadle to the righ t i n group I i s pressed D ouble Weav ing wi th More Than T wo Ch ang es dO‘Vn a ‘Vhite ' and th read passes th rough the Shed . The Fi u r e 455 shcnv a “ O g s double ven pattern , involving ' second treadle is pr essed dmvn and a blue wool thread is s fou r change . passed through the shed . The third treadle is p ressed a nd

' ' ‘ “ t a e n a white thread passes hrough . The fourth treadle i s An alysis of P tt r

' ’ n a r h pr essed a d a blue thread p sses th ong . The next treadle w ﬁr t Th e process of analyz ing a double woven piece of pressed do n is the s . cloth is more simple than tha t of the ordinary four -harness s pattern , “

' ver deﬁnitel e The changes are y y marked , and th draft

more easily written . The fac t that i t requires doubl e the number of har nesses makes the weaving a little more dif l ﬁcu t. Until the weaver becomes famil ia r with the various

‘ " a nal sis it w w ou t steps in y , i s ell to d ra the pattern to be

’ 1 - i 4 D w a z d on 1 s w F . 55 . an ly e pape , as ho n in g ra the ver tical lines that mark each change as shown below the pat

' c ther a r c w z t tern . Sin e e e fou r h anges , d ra hori on al lines W wh ich cross the vertical lines a t right angles . ithin the spaces thus formed write the number of th reads i n ea ch

I n1 11 st w change . t be remembered that there are al ays _ d ouble th e numb e r of th reads than appear on either th e

' — i . 454 For ﬁr st F g iipper or under surface . exampl e the square is e recorded as having th ree threads , this means tha t th re are The front border is made by repeating the ﬁ r st two three thr ads of another color i n the same square of th e changes in the treadling draft . under surfa ce . The weaver m ust use his own j udgment in the number has l r d w w It a eady been state , and the eaver should have of ool threads to use .

' Figure 4 54 shows th e Danish way for writing an experienced th e fact by th is time, that four heddles or w th r eadin r r e two w eigh t heddle draft for double eaving . The g harnesses are req uired for each change , for the hite A c c D w tw . s sembles that of the amask eave . a nd o for the blue a matter of onvenien e divide DO UBLE W EA VIN G

4 55 Fig . 1 88 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

Pi- — m e e n . 456 o A n g C pl t ed Draft . Patt r A al ys i s th e checked paper on which the draft is wri tten into sec th e border shoul d be threaded at the beginning as well as two ca a w tions an d m ark one, , th ree and four, as i ndi ted i n the end , th us making border around the en ti re eaving . Fi 4 . 56 . g Fi 456 - gure is the completed sixteen harness draft . a a If e ch ch ange in the p ttern is lettered , the number 1 4 Sw The No . iss Tidy Cotton , ( furnished by the r 0 11 of threads recorded , and th e ch ecked paper ma ked i nto W E estern Thread lgin , Ill . ) m akes a very good warp . w n ffi sections , th ere ill be o di culty i n writing th e draft te w w I t has been sugges d that the entire arp , in both hite for any particular square . 1 be . ﬁller 0 1 wo ' and blue m ade of cotton The colored of , a a w w w That p rt of the dr ft bet een th e arro s sh o s th e ma w w ﬁller w y be of ool and th e hite of cotton . If ool i s

to . i unit that is be repea ted The place of beg nning i s used in the warp i t should h ave a ver y hard twist to avoid

455 . marked in Fig . stretch ing so much as possible . After the pattern or uni t h as been repea ted thede The Reed e w w sir d number of times , the border h ich follo s is thread A 2 e 0 . Two w number re d is used threads , one hite ed . This places the border along the left edge only, and w ( . R e and one blue , are dra n through each lent ( e ds may w w two R 4 S W . R 5 3 W. a is oven ith the understanding th at strips are to be be p urch ased of . . treet, shington Blvd , w a w w . se ed together If th e oven piece is to be pillo top , Chicago . )

' 1 9 0 FO O T- POWER LOOM lVEAVl NG

458 — e n for H nesses Fig . Thr adi g Draft ar

wo ar esses The Treadles Advant age o f T H n

“ s w ﬂ i 458 w w two bar B rackets be cut and cre ed to the oor to hold F g . sh o s th e th reading draft hen

t . i 455 . th e leng hened treadles nesses are used for the p attern shown i n F g . I t will be observed that for each change in the pattern Warp B eam there are bu t two heddles instead of four , thus reducing Lengthened br acliets may also be placed a t the back to - the numb er to one half th e number of heddles . w w hold the arp beam , thus giving a greater distance bet een Patter n Har n ess th e warp beam and the harness . 455 e The pa ttern harness for Fig . consists of igh t D ouble Weaving with T wo H ar n esses two . heddles , for each change i n the pattern These hed A grea t advance wa s made i n the weaving of patterns w dles should be a t least t elve inches long , having small when the idea o ccurred of passing th e wa rp threads eyes through which the pattern threads are drawn . two s own ~ through ets of heddles , each set having its sep The entire pattern is threaded following th e threading a o a a r te functi n to perform such a s m king the ground , 4 8 i 5 . F . draft , g a a forming the p ttern , or binding portion of the design Th e T abby Har ness se as s parately , is som etim e necessary a A good exampl e of th e a ction of two separate h ar The t bby harness , consisti ng of four heddles , is hung

o . y n esses working together is afforded by the double cloth i n fr n t of th e pattern harness The tabb heddles are of

i 4 the same length as th e . pattern , but the eyes are abou t F . 55 . pattern , g The making of plain double cloth has

- o11e l1 al f t . been fully described at the beginni ng of this chapter . fou r and i nches in leng h D O UBLE WEAVE d 1 91 2 3 a 3 2 1

Hedd le :

4 — Fig . 59 ea n fo r Tr dli g Draft Fig . 1 92 FOOT-POWER LO OM WEAVI NG1

6 — o u e e n Fig . 4 0 D bl Patt r

1 94 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVI N G

’ ’ 2— ov n of e n Fi 4 6 e s . g . L r Chai Draft Patt r

1 ' l now . e th r h n ﬁ u r e w w ach pattern thread pass s ong a eye of If only the g harness ere used , the design ould he l w w w u d . n h r o h the tabby harness Th e th reading is ( lo e t ug the formed , b i t the th reads of both arp and eft o l a only interlace where th e bla ck takes the place of the white t bby harness th e sam e a s for double cloth . ' i O 0 1 th e wh te that f th e black . The long eyes of th e tabb ess allow th e pattern ' ' Th e plan tie -l ip and treadling of the double h a rness th reads to work u p a nd down , o i 4 55 a method for the pat tern sh wn i n F g . i s given on p ge The Wo of th e F e ar ess _ i 4 9 . 1 9 1 F . 5 rk H n , g

f Tie- U The province of the ﬁgu r e m ess is to form the de Ex plan atio n o p

1 u . 0 1 w o f sign i n large wi tho t rega rd e binding eaving The tabby treadles a re i n the middle, the treadles

r w . it together . car ying th e h ite are at the left and the black at the righ t

’ 4 63— ov e s n Fig . L r Chai PATT I Y S’ ' E i FOR D OFRL/J HEAVI N G 1 9

a o q

0 0 .

— ’ Fig . 4G4 e n for th e Love s C n ’ Tr adli g Draft r hai 4 — Fig . 65 Lover s Ch ai n 1 96 FO O T - POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

’ 466— for ove Kno Fig . Draft L r s t Patt ern

tie-u eon1 1ete the thi1 d ti eadle i s l d w The p p , black p esse third h i te pattern to th e second bla ck tabby . A bl ack down and at the same tim e th e ﬁ st whitetl ea dle i n the th read is passed through the shed . The thi rd “ shed is made by pressing down the th ird t . (h w f1 om abby 1 This is indicated by th e double line a n a and t e e w t bl ck pa ttern treadle h s cond hite abby , and ﬁx t - A the third black pattern to th e s wh ite tabby. white a white th read passed th rough the shed . thread is passed th rough the shed thus f0 1 med The sec By carefully following th e treadling draft th e weaver ond shed 1 s f0 1 med by p ressing down th e th ird wh ite trea cannot go astray. dle and the secend black of the tabby at the same time and A11 solid bl ack lines indicate colored threads wh ile the ? ’ b1 (11 awn fl om l i s indicated th e single continuous line the double lines indica te white . A l lines within brackets i ndi

r amBcginnlné

’ 4 67 — T' r eat11n of th e ove s Kno — Two ness Fig . h g Draft L r t Har

1598 FO O T- POWER LO OM W EA VING

4 0 — e n f os c e n— n e ness Fig . 7 Thr adi g Dra t , M ai Patt r Si gl Har

f - ( ate the number of times a series Oi threads is to be r e threading draft and tie up wit hout the tabby draft . The o peat a. pattern is th readed from the beginning to the arrow as 1 s w t o l f w 1 i'r h t w I t el l a ange th e sh uttles so that h en the m any times as desired . The part of th e draf t follo ing th e 11 hite tabby ti eadle is pressed down th e white shuttle is arrow i s the border a nd is th readed only once . The thread th rown f1 om th e l igh t and when the 1 igh t black tabb1 i ng draft becomes the treadling draft in the double weav t 1 ee dle is p le ssed down the shuttl e can y1 11 0 ' the black 0 1

in w . i s th1 own g j ust as it does in the four h arness eaving blue thread through th e shed . When weaving th e treadles i n group I are pressed When theleft wh ite t abby is 111 essed dowll the sh ut , t I V w w ﬁ r s . G m 11 1 th l1 B w do n roups I I , I I I and follo in thei r regular tle ca ying the hite s 1 o11 from th e left . y follo c ' order . The treadling th en goes ba k to groups I and II ing th e above order it gr eatly simpliﬁes the handl ing of and then down to group I V th e shuttles .

“ R y in a Fi 4 9 epeat any particular group as man times as is . 5 i s a The tre dling draft, g key to all the other r (liea ted by the bracket and ﬁgu e . drafts . ‘ " “ h ' Figure 463 shows th e th reading draft for Lover s F 4 s 0 1 m . igure 60 1 s a ost, attractive double pattern ‘ “ i i 4 1 Chai n when the double harness is used . t1 eadl 11 w F . 6 w The g draft is sho n i n g , and is follo ed i F 4 64 w t L ’ i 459 . the same as i n F g . igure sho s th e treadling draf for over s Cha n ’ u . < 4 h0 when the do ble harness is used l ig111 e 65 s 11 s 11 hat is 11 11 0 11 11 as Love i s Chai n .

A w w w v is w Fi . Upon inspection i t is found to c ontain but fou 1 changes . n other ell kno n double ea e sho n in g

, w t wo w . 4 62 w The draft is ritten in ays , , Fig sho s the

47 1 — Th readi1n for o u e ness os c e n Fig . g Draft D bl Har , M ai Patt r MO SH70 PATTERN DRAFT 1 99

F i 47 2 — e n g . Tr adli g Draft th e M osai c Patt ern

— Fig . 473 M osai c Patt ern 2 00 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

Re pea t fr o m Ar r o w

ne e n 4 5— e n for C oun e Fig . 7 Tr adl i g Draft t rpa Patt r

47 4— 0 0 11nter ane e n Fig . p Patt r

’ 2 02 FO O T - PO W ER LO OM ll EAVIN G

Re pea l fr om Be ginn ing Pa il;

— F 47 8 e n for e n h o n in . 47 9 ig . Tr adli g Draft Patt r S w Fig

F ig . 47 9 DO UBLE WO VEN CO UNTERPANES 2 03

F i 4 8 — e n fo o n . 0 r u e n e 4 8 2 g Th r adi g Draft C t rpa e ( S e Fig . )

u se o c c w {y practical through i ts m st ompli ated pa tterns ness i t ould requi re t wen ty heddles . using the double may be rep roduced . harness it requires ten h eddles for the pa ttern and fou r h the u It mus t be remembered t at do ble ha rness th read for th e tabby . in wi 4 7 6 fo r e g . w is th e same as th reading the entire pattern t ce Fi rst Fi gure gives the th reading the patt rn , hile b i 4 . the pattern is threaded a nd then the tab y ha rness i s F g . 7 5 gives the order of treadl ing S ince this is the threaded by drawing these sam e threads th rough th e long same as for the four - ( r hange patterns wh ich 11:11n al ready

' . The or der is it w c eyes of the tabby h arness i n th is thread ing been described , il l not be ne essary to give further 4 3 2 1 simply , , , , every other th read being colored . detail . Fi 4 7 4 w c 4 7 9 ﬁve . . gure sho s a n interesting ounterpane pattern , Figure is a pattern involvi ng changes Fig

ﬁ ' ve . i 4 7 8 involving changes 47 7 i s th e th reading d aft for th e pattern and F g .

I f was w fo r th e th reading d raft ritten the singl e har gives the treadling draft . 2 04 FO O T— POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

Re pe a t fr o m Ar ‘ r‘ o w - 5 x

— 482 48 1 e n for C oun e pane ( See . ) Fig . Tr adli g Draft t r Fig

' 06 FO O T- PO W ER LO OM WEA VIN G

' — 483 Fig : 4 8 4 Th r eadiné Draft [or C ounterpane ( Fig . )

' I t must be remembered tha t the threading ot the tabby har ness is always th e sam e regardless of th e number of

changes i n a pattern . F igure 4 82 shows a double woven counterpane th at

came origi nally from th e S ta te of New York . The name

is unknown to th e author . Fi 4 8 0 w ﬁ ve The pattern threading d raft , g , sho s A ca changes . ttention is again lled to th e threading of ' d th e pattern whi ch is threaded from the place marke

the a rrow. The part of th e draft whi ch fol lo ws th e arrow is the

border . To ﬁnd the number of threads necessary for any par

' inul l r r aft a ticu a d , count the threads in a repe t and then

to . tiply by th e number of times the pattern is be repeated F t y The border is threaded bu t once . ort y hreads are usuall

w w w . A used to th e inch , t enty blue and t enty h ite n umber w w twenty reed i s used , a blue a nd a h ite th read dra n e pe at r o m Ar r o w E w two f through each (l en t . ach pattern is ritten so that

— e n for oun e ne I us e in . 4 83 Fig . 485 Tr adli g Draft C t rpa ll trat d Fig DOUB LI]' W0 VEN ( Z' N' ‘ OU I ERP ' ANES 0 7

1 2 3 1 5 2 2 1 1 5 4 3 2 !

4 — Fig . 87 Treadli ng Draft

— . 486 Fig A Patte rn in Th ree C ol ors h ' 0 - WEAVI 7 C FO O T PO W ER LO OM N G

— 4 88 e n for oun e ne I us e in . 48 6 Fig . Th r adi g Draft C t rpa ll trat d Fig

— 482) P e n and n s s of oun e ne I us e in . 492 Fig . att r A al y i C t rpa ll trat d Fig

' F T- WER E 1 0 O O PO LOOM W A VIN G

nd h e — C oun e ne in B ue a W Fig . 49 2 t rpa l it ’ 49 2 e . 1 — Dr att for e n ( Se ) Fig . 4 9 Tr adli g Fig DOUBL E l l’ OVEN COUNTEIRP/ l NES 1 1

— h 493 e n and n s s or oun e ne o n in . 4 9 6 Fig . Patt r A al y i C t rpa S w Fig 2 12 FO O T - POWER LO OM WEAVING

— ' . 494 Th 1 eadin for 4 Fig g Draft Fig . 96

attem th1 eadin 1 Fi 4 The p g d aft for g . 83 is given i n Figure 4 85 gives a detailed treadling draf t for the L1 4 4 g 8 . N o 1 i f0 1 a s Fi 4 4 8 . d aft is g ven th e t bby becau e of the draft g . t it i s a w f0 1 all . 1 ee Fi 4 8 6 fac that l ays th e same patterns The th d g . gives anoth er ﬁve change pattern i n which a a w ing is th e same as for the pl in double eave namely d. , ; third color is introduce In this case the small squares 4 3 2 1 , , , . are of a madder red . If th e red sq u ares are to appear on

’ 2 1 4 FO O T- POll ER LO OM WEAVI N G

w t a h i e background th e red is warped with the wh ite . I n The th reading pattern fully written ou t i s shown in 4 11 90 . this particular pattern the red squares appear 0 a blue Fig .

w w . w w background , so the red is arped ith the bl ue If the si ngle h arness plan of eaving ere used in thi s

I n th e threading and treadling d rafts a sligh t varia pa rticula r pattern it would require a harness of 2 4 h e ddles . B s 4 90 4 9 1 . 4 6 . tion ha s been made from the pa ttern given in Fig . 8 y using the double harne s as given i n Figs and x w the I nstead of giving th e border as sh own i n 4 8 6 a pine tree only si teen harnesses are requi red , t elve for pattern

. border h as been substituted . and fou r for th e tabby Figure 492 sh ows the completed counterpane i n two If the weaver will careful ly fo llow the threading

w . colors , blue and h ite 4 w Fi . shown in Fig . 88 and th e treadling draft sho n in g F e 4 93 w ih w igur sho s an interesting pattern , h ich 4 8 7 the pattern shown i n 4 8 6 will be produced with a pine eigh t changes appea r . The entire analysis is given to aid Al l t ree border . the pa tterns in this chapter are for coun i n understanding the writing of the pattern draft . t r ne w wa t two s e pa s and are ritten i n such a y ha t th e strip w To weave thi s pattern , using the single harness , ould

c w . ne essary for a counterpane may be se ed together y d require a harness of 32 heddles . B using the ouble har

Figure 489 sh ows a pattern in which si x changes a p necessar v 1 6 and ness only 2 0 heddles are , for the pattern w ~ . pear The detailed analysis i s given by dra ing th e verti 4 for th e tabby.

i . The nmn . F cal and h ori z on tal lines indicating th e changes . Figu re 494 shows the pattern threading draft g w l a c 4 9 Fi . 4 9 6 ber of th reads in ea ch change is pla ced i n i ts proper p e , 5 gives th e treadling draft and g sho s th e com

lete c . di rectly bel ow the spots i n th e pattern . p pattern and border i n a ounterpane HAP T ER X C .

T ex tiles and Woo d

A ca o s to Fur n r e A c w c ppli ti n itu fter the stool is constru ted , upholster it ith a pie e

- w Heretofore very little has been done in the combina of hand oven material . This may be either woven by

' w w w tion of hand oven textiles and ood , yet there i s no com the boy himself or by the girl s in the eaving class of the

' bination of materials that gives such a large variety of school . Here again are more possibilities for making ea ch f c artistic e fects as thi s one . The different ways in which piece more i ndividual , sin e each piece of m aterial may be ma w w f w this material ybe used , i n combination ith ood, are of a di ferent pattern , yet all may be oven from the sam e

t we 0 11 . too n umerous to mention ; herefore, shall take only threading the same loom those simple problem s which are within the capabilities of This material migh t be used wherever upholstering is

h - w even a sixth , seventh , or eig th grade boy . possible , on a great variety of h ousehold furniture i th c most pleasing and beauti ful results . A little tou h of Foot S tool hand -woven material gives to any a rticle upon wh ich i t

c The ﬁr st problem that we suggest is that of a small is used a most subtle appearan e . 49 w t -w 4 7 Figure 8 sho s the comple ed stool made from the foot stool , upholstered in hand oven material . Fig . 9

4 9 . w w w working drawing sh own i n Fig . 7 The design used for sho s th e orking dra ing of this unique, but simple, lit tle foot stool showing the wide possibilities for ind ividual weaving the material used in uph ol stering th is stool is

n o R P . design . Here i s a problem that a whole class may con one of th e ma y p ssible ones of th e ose ath pattern w t o . struct , an d no made alike We h ave given a few sug Wast e B asket gestions as to how the desi gn of the legs of the stool may

OP u z 500 w wo w be altered enlarged pon . The si e of the stool itsel f Figure sho s the rking d ra ing of a very sim

w b w x - c w may be changed ith pleasing results y m aking i t longer, ple aste basket that any si th grade boy ould build i th

w w w difficult . The l dif ficult th e lo er, or narro er, so that there are any number of ays out m uch y on y y i s in boring of changing the desi gn of th is stool without l osing any of h oles at th e proper angle . w l o f two . i l Tw c of c v i ts a rtistic qualities I t i s a most fl ex b e problem . o pie es loth a re o en th e ength sides 2 1 6 FO O T- PO WER LOOM WEAVING

’ 4 97 — Wok n n of U h o s e e oo oo Fig . r i g Drawi g p l t r d F t St l

2 1 8 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

50 — o n n of s e s e Fig . 0 W rki g Drawi g Wa t Ba k t TEX TI LES AND WOOD 2 1 9

That this combination makes a beautiful as well as useful piece of furniture may be seen from the photograph 503 th O e w in . w sho n Fig . Th e cloth is oven from e rang w to Peel pattern , a border being oven at the p and bottom h to break up t e space . T it hough the construction of this screen is simple, should be made as a group problem r ather than an indi l to to vidua one ; the boys make the frame, and the gi rls w a e ve the cloth . Figure 504 shows the working drawing of another very attractive screen of differen t construction from the ﬁr st one mentioned . I n this screen build the inside frames as w l and w sho n , of any umber, then cover both front back ith

es . the cloth , tackin g i t along th e outside edg of the frames r d w and t Make th e g oove strips as sho n , ack them on the outside edges of th e frame, covering up the edges upon w s h ich the cloth has been tacked . This give a very neat ff ﬁnish and e ective to th e screen , since all of the frame tha t shows is the l ittl e grooved moulding on th e outside edges . Figure 505 shows how attractive this kind of a scree n can be made to look by j ust using strips of hand -woven w O r how a cloth , embroidered ith rope silk . bse ve be uti fully the panels are broken by skilful designing .

50 1 — Fi ni sh e d S ewi ng Bask e t ' 2 2 0 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEAVIN G

502 — o n n of c een Fig . W rki g Drawi g S r

' 22 2 FO O T- PO WER LO OM WEA VING

Working Drawi ng of S creen TEX TI LES W D 0 AND O O 1 CHAP T ER X I

The D esign and Constr uction o f Looms

D anish Loom The following cuts show the working drawings for Sw both th e Danish and edish looms . If light work only ' 50 is desired then the Danish loom shown in Fig . 6 is the o 507 l om to construct . Fig . shows the fron t working draw w Fi 0 . . 0 5 9 w ing Fig 5 8 sho s th e side and g . sho s the detail drawings of th e various parts .

Swedish Lo om 1 Figure 5 0 shows the completed Swedish loom . If n space is available this is the loom to h ave . O this loom may be woven ver y ﬁne articles as well as the Colonial u rugs . O the Danish loom only the lighter work can be

. 1 1 w w successfully woven Fig . 5 shows the orking d ra ing 1 2 w for th e fron t of Swedish loom . Fig . 5 sho s th e side, 1 w w Fi . 5 3 w a and g sho s the detail dr ings of th e beater, arp

a . beam , heddle sticks and other mov ble parts

Fly Shuttle

- t d aw . 51 4 ﬁ The de aile dr ing, Fig , is that of a y sh uttle

' e n t loom . The ba tten or beat r of a y loom may be made in o t -s h at of a ﬂy huttle . The ﬂy- shuttle arrangement is especially practical in th e weaving of materials that require but one shuttle . The

r a a ma R . B . S 543 nec es sa y m teri ls y be purchased of treet,

Wes “ t . t ashing on street, Chicago i 6— k F g . 50 S e l ' ' 2 6 FO O T- PO WER LO OM WEAVIN G CONSTRUCTI ON OF LO OMS

509 — o k n n of oom— e Fig . W r i g Drawi g L D tail s FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

1 0 — n s e oom— ed s Fig . 5 Fi i h d L Sw i h

2 30 FO O T— POWER LO OM WEAVI NG

51 2 — o n Fig . W rki g Drawi ng of Sw edi sh Loom CONS TRUCTI ON OF LO OMS

51 3— o k n n e o — Fig . W r i g Drawi g of Sw di sh Lo m Detail s “ ' ' 2 32 FO O T-POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

! EC T !O N T HE U A- R

SECT ION

FLY SHUT T LE BEATEE

OECT ooN THPU D-B

51 4— u e Fig . Fly Sh ttl

2 34 FO O T-POWER LO OM WEAVI N G

Mor a t Gr eeni ell d n 2 . sh Y ow

r All e Yarn 2 50 g . material is mordan ted b fore dyeing . Sometimes F w 1 k . the mor dant i s placed in the dye itself but more often res h ild pa rsley g ' A r lum ( mordant ) 35 g . the material i tself is mordanted before placing in the dye . A a . W a lum i s useful mordan t for most vegetable dyes hen Boil th e p rsley on e hour , drain , add the alum , stir a lum i s used it must be boiled in order to becom e thor well until alum has dissolved . Boil material i n sol ution Al hr oughly dissolved . l goods must be wet before entering from to 1 . th e mordant . Gr eenis ell 3 . h w If vi triols are used in mordanting they must be placed Y o

- 2 r . w a M o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 50 i n luke arm w ter only . ordant materi als from one to Yarn g

A 32 r . two hours . lum ( mordant ) g

F 1 k . When mor cl a nting the material sh oul d be well cov resh alder g ﬁr st 1 M . e wa ordan t the materia l Boil the leaves er d with ter .

e d 1 h r . drain , add mordant m aterial and boil to

Form ul ae for D yeing 4 S tr on r eenish Y cNow . g G The following recipes have been successfully tried out

2 0 r . o o o o 5 Yarn o o o o o o o o o o o o o g and are offered to those who are interested e nough to not r Alum ( mordant ) 4 0 g . only use wha t is here suggested but to m ake furth er i1i r Bayberry leaves 500 g . l vestigation i n the broad ﬁe d of vegetable dyes . Mordan t the material ﬁ r st . Boil the fresh 1m am 1 , drai n and add mordanted y , boil from Y e ows ll ‘ according to dar kness of color desired .

Waco ell w 1 . Y o r Yarn 2 50 g . Gr eenish Yellow

A 32 r . ( lum ( mordant ) g Yarn 2 50 gr .

F r . 500 r . resh bayberry g D r y birch leaves 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 g

Alum( mordant ) 32 gr . Mordan t before dyeing, boil the leaves one

S l . add m aterial and boil on e hour . oak the eaves the day before using YELLO W D YES 2 35

s A d wa . Boil the soaked leave for one hour an d strain . d Mordan t th e yarn i n the usual y Chop the alder an ﬁne th e alum to this solution d boil yarn in it from to bark , and soak the day before using . Boi l from 2 to

1 hr 3 hr . l hr . , drai n and boil the yarn i n the liquid . or longer a If the ya rn is dried wi thout rinsing and then placed in ccording to the depth of color desired . a W eak birch ash lye the color becomes a reddish yellow.

Re s Reddis h ell d 6 . Y ow ar k Re r 9 . D d Ya rn 2 50 g . A 4 r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 50 r . lum ( mordant ) 0 g . Ya rn 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 g D r . 2 50 r . 0 0 0 1 r . y apple bark . Cream of tarta r 0 0 0 0 6 g g M ordan t ﬁr st d A 65 r The material is mordante in the alum water . lum g .

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 50 r . Cut th e bark i nto small pieces and soak the day be Madder 0 0 0 0 g

. I t two fore using is then boiled hours and strai ned . Mordan t the yarn for two hours and let i t remain in Boil the mordanted yarn in th e bark liquid from w w th e liquid til l cool , then rinse in luke arm ater . 1 hr to . The yarn may be all owed to d ry after removing from By using more bark and boiling longer a darker yellow the mordant ; then i t i s rinsed i n warm water before i t is i s obtained . in p ut the madder l iquid . This color fades a little if i t i s not very dark . Th e m adder is put to soak th e day before i t is to be e ell w 7 . Y o wa y used in enough cold ter to make a very thin solution . Yarn If there are h ard lumps they m ust be rubbed apart A 4 r lum ( mordant ) 0 g . ‘V d i n order to thoroughly soak . hen ready to ye the soaked Kinnikinnic 1 kg . madder m ass i s put i n clean col d water and wh en l uke D Chop th e kinnikinnic tine and boil for 3 hr . rain w a rm the m ordanted ya rn is added .

) to and boil the mordan ted material in the l iquid from V This i s heated slowly to 6 0 degrees or 7 0 degrees Centi 1 hr ’ . ﬁ S grade or hot enough to burn one s nger s . tir the yarn

r wnish ell w 8 . B o Y o constantly and keep the solution at the same temperature m b il it. ust not . Yarn 2 50 gr . as long as the yarn i s i n I t o I f the yarn 2 r Al u m ( mordan t ) 3 g . is not sti rred i t becomes spotted as tha t part of the mad e Al bark 2 kg . der liquid that h ats the quickest gives a stronger color ' der 2 36 FOO T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

1 Li ht ell 2. g Y owish Red th an the other . The red coloring matter i n th e madder

O O O O 2 r O O O O O O O O O O O 50 . Yarn O O g w w in dissolves ithou t boiling, but ith boiling the other A 40 r lum ( mordant ) g . gr edients in the madder are also dissolved and these cause r M adder 7 5 g . the r ed color to lose i ts brightness and change i t to brown . as 1 1 M ordan t in No . bu t keep the yarn When the yarn has been i n the m adder liquid for th e r e 1 h r liquid only A; . quired time i t is allowed to remain in the solution until

K e . cool . e p stirring unti l cool ale Re 1 3 . P d I t is th en rinsed and washed in several waters to r e n O O O Yar O O O O O O O O O O O O O O move th e loose madder Al um ( m ordant ) When the yarn is allowed to dry after being mordanted M adder 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 All r ed e a k . the color b comes little dar er . dark madder 1 2 a . Treat s i n No . a colors are absolutely fast . The l ighter ones fade li ttle

o b . 1 4 R se Red as the years g y . o 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 r . Yarn 0 0 0 0 0 g A 4 r 0 0 0 . lum ( mordant ) 0 0 0 0 g

a 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 r . Mediu m Madder Red M dder 0 0 0 0 g

Yarn Mordant th e yarn as usual ; when cool wrap the wet Cream of tartar er a . A w M ordan t mat ial in cloth so i t does not dry out . llo it to lie Alum w in this way from 6 to 8 days . I t is then treated ith mad M adder der as above mentioned .

Trea t the same as No . 9 . The yarn should be squeezed in a little lukewarm wa

ter before putting i t in the color liquid .

Li ht Ma dder 1 1 . g Ter r a

2 50 r . Yarn g 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 A lum ( mordant ) 40 gr . Mordant M adder 1 2 5 gr .

Mordant th e yarn one hour and keep i t warm 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 hr 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 color l iquid from A? to 1 .

2 38 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

1 0 e M l u sua . Boi l for minutes , ke ping the scum skimmed from the ordan t the yarn as

Of bei l1a h r surface th e g . 1 6 ‘ Boil the yarn for in the sol ution left from or Add ellowl sh tm SOI UUOD 1 11 NO 1 7 ll t 1 n 1 7 . 7 the y as and P the . Th e color becomes lighter after th e use of N o tha dr 1 x 1 6 n . y yarn nto the boiling m i ture, tur i t quickly around after No .

w 1 h r . and later turn a little more slo ly . Boil

Light Ca r mine Flag Co lo r Yarn Yarn Alum Tin Cream of ta rta r MOI ‘dzl ll t Nitric acid Starch o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o Water Cochineal Cream of tartar Cream of tartar 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Cochineal n 1 r Mordant the yar h .

1 8 . Theat the same as in No . The starch must be mi x ed with a little cold water be'

fore it is added to th e mordant . a r k Car mine 2 0 . D Boil the soaked cochineal and cream of tartar in fresh Yarn wate r for 1 5 minutes . Cream of ta rta r . M ordant The mordanted y arn is boiled in this from

r Cochineal 1 6 g . w 2 . . Mordant th e yarn for h rs and cool In fresh ater D ull Ca r mine put the powdered soaked cochineal and boil for 1 5 m inutes . Yarn The yarn is added and boiled for 2 h r s , when i t is Alum taken ou t and dried . Cream of tartar

C ochineal 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Madder o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 ar mine 2 . C Starch O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O Yarn 2 50 gr :

r M . Alum ( mordant ) 4 0 g . ordant as usual RED D Y ES 2 39

Soak the cochineal and the madder together and boi l m ai n 1 The Bra z i l wood which has been soaked is

i a hr for 1 0 m nutes . placed in bag and this is boiled i n clea n water Dissolve the sta rch in col d water and put i t i n before The bag i s now removed and the madder colored yarn is

now 1 h r . Let in d 1 h r . boiled i n this solution from to i t li e th e yarn i s adde to th e cold sol ution , boil from to

this solution till cooled a little . Then i t is taken ou t and

2 4 R se Red w w e . o the potash , hich has been el l dissolved , is add d to the r e- -1 0 0 1' 1 5 Y am solution and the ya rn i s entered and left for A l . w Alum ( mordan t ) minutes l lo the y a rn to remain i n the soluti on til cool

and th en wash in strong soap suds . This is an inexpensive r . Boil h . i n mordant

r ed blue color but i t is not so pretty as th e Salmon Red . 1 7 . Boil h r . in solution l eft i n If the color i s to be of a light shade double th e amount of yarn or throw away 0 Red 7 . half th e color solution and add clear water . 2 r Yarn 50 g . S alm n Red 4 r 0 . 2 5 . o Al um g M ordant a 1 6 r . Yarn 2 50 gr . Cream of t rtar g r 1 r Bed straw roots 2 50 g . The dry unmordanted yarn i s boiled from 4 to h .

t N . 1 8 N . 1 9 . i n th e sol ution lef i n o or o I f more yarn is Mordan t the ya rn from 1 to 2 h rs . w taken the color becom es ligh ter ; i t i s also ligh ter hen The dr y roots are ground or ch opped fine and p ut to

w . 1 9 . us ing No. 1 8 than hen using No soak . D uring the dyeing the ya rn i s treated the same as was Red r m r az il l Vood 2 6 . f o B 9 r described in No . , for madder colo ing, but in this case th e Ya rn 250 gr . l ya rn is boil ed a l ittle towa rd the end . Alum 40 gr . Mo u lant r Crea m of tartar 1 6 g . Dar k Red M adder 40 gr .

r 2 50 r . Braz il wood 40 gr . Ya n g

r . r G . 2 50 Potash 7 g . round pine ( m ordan t ) g

Ma e be d w. . 2 50 r . u w c c dd r or stra g M ordant as sual , after h i h the yarn i s pla ed i n 9 l w r e th e w way m a dder sol ution as desc r ibed in N o . and al o ed to M ordan t th e ya rn i n ground pine i n fol lo ing 2 40 FO O T-POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

ﬁ ne W w liu m r Th e groun d pine is chopped and soaked in as m uch hen using, eigh or measure the O i n a d y wa x o ter as i s needed for the dyeing . This mi ture is heated glass and pour carefully int cold water before placing in Nev e da a n a w w can . r w Olium eti e e e every y and m us t rem i in arm place here i t the dye pour ater into the , as i t r v sc s

A 4 s . W li m be kep t lukewarm . fter 3 or days i t acquires a sour and may inj ure th e eye hen th e O u is kep t in an

A w . a . . s smell . Boil well and strain i t boils add a little ater ai r tigh t bottle, it may be kept for long tim e

wet ‘ In this strained solution put the yarn and heat every All the w w on recipes for blue h ich follo , are based day for three or four days and let it stand in a warm place . li m O u a . w e measured i n graduated glass If eigh d , take

The last day bo il well . double as many grams . I f the sulph uric acid is poor, the w Th e yarn will then h ave a l igh t yello ish , green gra y w o w . indigo il l not diss lve, and the color ill run To prove

a . color and sour smell w a few that the indigo is ell dissolved , take drops of the now w The yarn is rinsed and allo ed to d ry before it is Olium w w ﬁlter in a , mix ith ater, and strain th rough a g p colored red . ﬁlter ed per . If the dye is stil l blue, then the indigo has

’

9 . The m adder is prepared as described i n N o . B efore w w been properly dissolved , but if not , the dye ill be h ite z the ar n i s ut into the red dye i t must be well squee ed in ! y p ln ligh t blue . e warm wat r . W Olium be d be hen is to used in yeing, i t sh ould meas

ur ed w a dr The Prepara tion of Olium or eighed in y glass , as before desc ribed , and dropped or poured slowly into th e l ukewarm water and The Norwegians succeed in getting m ost bea u tiful well stirr ed . Olium sh ades of blue th rough the use of what they call , I Olium d f the color is too ligh t, more may be a dde w the w n way : , hich is m ade in follo i g w w bu t some of the boiling dye l iquid m ust be thro n a ay , Indigo is dissolved with sulph uric acid by mix ing 1 5 _ and the remainder m ixed with cold water before the Olium . r w w 1 2 5 r . g . po dered indigo ith g of smoking sulphuric acid w w o is added . If the liquid i s too arm , hen the go ds is put r a indi ofl sa Put abou t 1 0 g . of sulph uric acid and l ittle g y ih it , becomes streaked or clouded , even though i t has been — fittin . r in a ar w w ' 2 g . glass j or bottle ith a ell g stopper As as i . a e s dyed p reviously soon s th e yarn h been bo led in Stir this till i t is smooth . Use a gl ass rod , or if n ce sary w w too t t A th e dye, it ill be seen hether it is ligh as by hat a h ar dwood stick: Metal must not be used . fter this , tim e all dye will h ave been drawn into the goods . If in and put a little of each into thej ar and stir , so continue a fi r ml and the h e ting, i t i s getting too dark , a part of the liquid i s until all ha s been used . Pu t stopper y i n bottl e w w w allow themixture tostand at l east 2 4 hou rs before using . thro n out and the remainder ligh tened ith ater before

2 4 2 FO O T-POWER LOOM WEAV{NG

d b Wa t lu ere y th e dye until cool , unles s they are constantly 5: er B e stirred in the dye . This liquid forms a crust on the sur Ya r n face in the cooling which spots the good s or yarn near the Alum ( morda nt ) surface . Olium

D Handle as above . 32 . ull Medium B lu c w Olium e . A r The lighter colors ith are not absol ut ly fast lum ( mordan t ) 4 0 g . They become sligh tly greenish after being used and c annot Olium . r 8 g . w d w r be ashed i n so a ater . M adder 1 5 g .

. S The yarn is mordanted as usual ome of the mordant ar k l wit Gr un P44 1 6 . D B ue h o d 6 water is thrown away and enough cold watei' is added to

' 0 2 r 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 . Yarn 0 0 0 0 g a Add li m m ke th e liquid lukewarm . the O u stir well put , , G 2 0 0 0 0 0 50 r . round pine 0 0 0 0 0 g in w t the yarn and h eat slo ly , stirring cons antly . L r w 0 0 1 00 . og ood 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 g i hr n Add o w e Bo l . a d take out . en ugh cold at r to The ground pine is chopped ﬁne and soaked in as the liquid to make i t lukewarm and add th e dissolved mad ' ' nee w m uch water as is ded for th e dyeing . Th e hol e i s der w . Add a w and stir ell the y rn and hea t slo ly , stirring

a e w w . 11 12 h e t d daily and is placed here it can be kept l uke arm consta ntly and evenly . Boil , then cool , rinse and W t s w hen af er three or four days i t has acquired a souri h ash . Thew e w odor, i t should be well boiled an d strained . at r ill B r i ht Mediu m B l 33 . g s sufﬁ cient w e dimini h i n the boiling, therefore at r must be r Y am 2 50 g . W added so that there is enough for dyeing . hen the ground A 4 0 r lum ( mordan t ) g : i wet pine has been stra ned , the yarn is placed in th e liquid

Olium 5 r . g j and h eated every day for three or four days and kept in a

Th e yarn is mordanted and dyed as above . a t warm place . Th e l s day i t is boiled ; the yarn should i s through boiling i n th e dye l iquid th e yarn a w a then have ligh t, yello ish , green gr y color and a sour rinsed and washed . odor .

w w was e 3 ! Light B ﬂwe The log ood , hich put to soak the day b fore,

i in w 1 h r . and Ya r n is placed in a bag and bo l ed cl ear ater then ~ now wr un Alum ( mordant ) removed . The yarn is g out of the ground pine r and w hr . 1 h . Handle th e same as above . liquid boiled in the log ood liquid to I t GREEN DYES 243

w l an . W d r c is then taken out a nd dried hen y, pla e i t for sev or iron sulphate, the green il becom e da rker but i t is

o r ow . c . l v eral hours i n a weak bi r h ash lye a nd wash The e is other t ne , gray or b nish '

w ( w t . made by putting the ashes in a rm water . Certain plants give a green lye ithou using blue

W w c w e w ith more log ood , a darker olor is obtained . Th e yello dye i n th se plants ill , by the addition of an w Th is color is fast for covering but should not be used i ron or copper sal t , become green , bu t th e ya rn ill have

' 0 1 it 1 w . for huer covers rugs . In time becomes slightly grav shade of gray or bro n

c ish i n olor . Gr een with Birch Leaves

a r k l wit , ickwee 3 7 . ue h h d D B C be For th ese dyes , both fresh and dried leaves may

1 k . a e . k . es used . Th ree g fresh leav make g d ried le v s c w l Fresh chi k eed pail We must therefore count on u sing three times as much A 32 i n lum ( mordan t ) g fresh leaves a s drie d in the dyeing . The recipes are made r L w 50 . e og ood g on the basis of dried leaves . The leaves are soak d the w 1 wa The chick eed is boiled h r . and d rained . Th e alum day before a nd a re boiled i n enough ter to make th e

nmov . w . wet u d i s added to the l iquid , and ell_ stirred Th e necessary dye l iqui and are then strai ned The boi ling

d . danted yarn is taken , and added to th e liquid a nd boile is done so tha t al l dye material i n th e leaves may be had h A ﬁlled w e d r w i wa 1 r . . A s and taken out small bag ith the soak fter straining, the leave a re insed ith a l ttle clea r e h r w c o w w . log ood is boil d i n the liquid ter, and this is added to the liq uid h ich i s o led h ile

n 1 h w w . A am d r . dd the y a let it boil ith the log ood bag one is dyeing the ya rn blue .

o u o f l Th e yarn l ies in the l iquid u ntil cold . Th e yarn is m ordanted wi th the am nt alum ca led

I t a w r w . c darker dye is anted , use m o e log ood for i n the re ipe . W w inor dant w hen dyeing blue , th ro out half the ater

Gr een D es ' ' y and add clea r cold water and th e pl 0 p0 1 amoun t of Olium . The p ure gree n col o rs a re al ways composed of a ye l Olium i s measured i n a gradua ted gl ass or is d ropped l ff t u w ow and blue dye s tu . These a re mostly made by fi rs ( co n ting th e d rops ) carefully into the water hich has ° i e wet n w o 2 0 C w . dyeing the goods blue, and then boiling i t a yello dye b en hea ted to ab u t , and is ell sti rred The , a e w w immedi To obtai n dark gre n the blue foundation must be made ell rung ya rn , al ready m ordanted , is placed N ﬁr s t . o I d dark enough the time amoun t of boi ling in th e ately i n th e lukewa rm bl ue liquid . t is stirred and turne

w . B y d o w c yello dye will make th e goods da rker ad i ng madder quickly ar und i th a sti k . This i s kep t up constan tly 244 FO O T-POWER LOOM WEAVI NG

w w B For -cl es 1 5 and hile the liquid is slo ly boiling . y that tim e, all the ligh t after y , add to the cooled dye to " -stuﬂ w Olium the dye ill have been absorbed by th e yarn and i t drops , if only light colors have been boiled in i t and

to w a no . may be l eft boil slo ly hr . i t cont ins blue

e ca e W ' h as o Unless one is exce dingly r ful i n th e blue dyeing, henever dark dyed blue been b iled in the birch a e l a . the y rn becom s clouded and this cannot be corrected l eaf, some of the blue remains wa w ter , but becomes more noticeable when dyed green . Yarn and cloth are h andled in the same y, ith the

W has e x w w w hen the ya rn b en dyed , i t is cooled i n th e liquid e cep tion that ool is to be boiled slo ly , hil e cloth i s

. w 0 11 . before i t is taken ou t I t is then well rung, put again boiled quickly and kep t in constan t motion ° -w a 30 C V - s the stick and placed i n the milk arm , ( bou t , ) ariations of the birch leaf dyeing are endle s among

- w w birch leaf liquid . It is constantly turned and kept in slo the fol lo ing recipes motion until th rough boiling . The longer i t is kep t i n the l r ee NO ar k u n . 1 3 8 . D B e G - birch leaf liquid the stronger the green color . I t should , 2 r Ya r n 50 g . h r the not not boil more than 1 . If yarn is dark enough , A 4 0 r . ' lum ( mordan t ) g s it r due to poor leave , m ust be boiled for h alf an hour , in Olium ( bl ue dye ) 5 g .

' - i 1 k . new birch leaf dye after hav ng been dried . I t m ust be Birch leaves g

- thoroughly wet in warm water before being placed in the Boil in birch leaf liquid to 1 h r . according as a more

- n w d . ew dye . Th e goods is allo e to lie i n th e dye until col d or less blue green color is desired a unless the color is becoming too strong . In th t case, i t ar k l ue Gr een No . 2 3 9 . D B

. intensiﬁed is taken up at once and cooled . The color is by Ya rn O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O ' a w . h ving the ma terial li e i n th e arm dye until it is cold Alum mordant ) can w If there a re to be several dyes in green , these ell Olium ( blue dye ) o o o o o o

- ca] 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 be boil ed in the same birch leaf dye . I t is necessary to Birch leaves

- h r culate in advance the proper amoun t of leaves and to make Boil i n birch leaf liquid 1 . up separately th e blue dyes . Medium lu e Gr een 4 0 . B - - it. If th e birch leaf dye is to be used for after dyeing, Yarn O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O m u st be cooled before new yarn can be placed i n it. a 0 0 0 0 Alum ( mord n t ) 0 0 m a l The dull blue green dyes y also be boi ed in the Oliu m ( blue dye ) 0 0 0 0 0 0

- sam e bi rch leaf dye tha t th e l igh t fresh gr een colors were Bi rch leaves 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

- in 1 h r . boiled . Boil bireh leaf dye

24 6 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

- 1 hr . o . 0 0 0 1 1 Gr a e Boil in birch leaf and then take ut the 5 . y Gr en with B ayber r y 2 r 5 . liq uid and add the g soaked madder . Place the yarn Yarn 2 50 gr . oo 1 i n the c led liquid and let i t boil hr . 4 , take i t out, add A 4 r l um ( mordant ) 0 g . and hr the iron sulphate, cool , put in the yarn , boil . D ried bayberry leaves 500 gr .

Handle as above . 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 r Iron sulphate to 2 0 g . S a 2 4 a le o k the bayberry leaves and boil hrs . The mor 8 . P B lu e Gr een t 1 h dan ed yarn is boiled i n the strained liquid for r . and Add i s then taken out . the i ron sulphate and when this i s A r l um ( mordan t ) 30 g . a w dissolved add little cold ater . Place the yell ow dyed The mordanted yarn is placed in the cooled after - dye , cooled li uid w yarn in the ‘ q heat slo ly stirring consta ntly N , , o. 50 and w t of , slo ly hea ed to th e boiling point . Boil 1 5 0 . and let it boil to minutes Take i t ou t and cool . 1 hr to .

M r tle Pale Yellow Gr een y

2 O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O Yarn 50 gr . A 3 0 r lum ( mordant ) . g . Mor dant Boil i n th e same manner as suggested in

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 43 .

50 . Olive Gr een with Hea the r Th e potassium chromate and the cream of tartar are r 2 50 r . w Ya n g dissolved in boiling ater, and enough cold water added A ( 4 0 r . w lum mordant ) g to make the liquid luke arm . Place th e wet yarn in this F s . . 1 2 k . w o re h heather tops to g and heat slo ly , stir, b il one hour and let i t lie in this

e and m . R w e Chop the h ather soak and then bo il 4 h rs . in a ordant un til cold inse in clear ater b fore placing ’

. W a . woo polished iron kettle hen the liquid is put b ck, the in the dye The mulberry and log d are p ut to soak the

e d w 1 s (l a . yarn is boil slo ly to 2 hrs . according to the darkne s y previous They are put in a bag and boiled in clear 2 w . wet a e . Let the of color desi r d it lie i n dye till cool , but it must ater h rs Take out the bag and boil the mord nted

. I y 2 . f o be stirred occasionally . If the liquid is allowed to form a a rn in this dye hrs there is ro m i n the kettle , time

w . w . crust , this ill spot th e yarn may be saved by boiling the yarn ith the bag the last hour VI OLET D Y ES 2 4 7

4 0 ° C , and the soaked madder is added . Pu t the yarn in If more logwood i s used the color wil l be darker — less log , w . h r again and slo ly heat to boiling Boil . wood makes i t ligh ter Dissolve the i ron sulph ate and add i t to the cool ed

53 . ar k Gr as Gr e . D s en. . S w . l iquid , after taking ou t the yarn ti r ell Put yarn back

r n r for hr . a ou e . Ya 2 50 g . and boil to T ke t immediat ly and cool M r w w 8 0 . W ulberry g ith more madder, th e color becomes bro ner , ith A M 4 r l e . 0 . . lum g ess , more gre n ore i ron sulph ate makes i t duller If

Olium 1 0 r a . g . th e m adder is omitted , the color becomes pure green er w r The m ul b ry ood is pu t to soak the day before , These colors a e not durable . In time they become 1 hr . d . boil ed and straine In the strained liquid , dissolve brown or grayish . w w li m u . the alum and hen the l iquid is milk arm , add the O all w e we V o et D es It is ell stirr d . The t mordanted ya r n i s pu t in i l y

. w o 1 h r and stirred constantly Heat slo ly and b il . The As V iolet dyes ar e compounded of blue and red . a ya rn i s left in th e dye un til cold . s rule , indigo, cochineal and m adder are used . The color

li e ee mad e by these dye stuﬁ s are fas t when they are not too 54 . O v Gr n

Yarn ligh t in color . w A 4 r With cochi neal th e color becomes a pure viol et , ith lum ( mordant ) 0 g . , Olium r more or less red according to the proportio n of blue and ( bl ue dye ) 5 . g W 2 r red dye . ith m adder and cochineal , the color is m ore M ulberry 6 g .

Tamer ic A 4 0 r brownish or plum color . The depth of th e color is m uch cid g . af w M adder 1 3 gr . fected by the quality of the ool according as i t is coarse

r ﬁ ne. . I ron sulphate 3 g . or The latter becomes th e darker Ligh t v iol et dyes become dull and not satisfactor y in The yarn is mordanted and dyed blue, j ust as is done ﬁner - coarse or h ard cloth . Th e dye shades require soft i n bi rch leaf dyeing . The mulberry having been soaked , a w t r ‘ l h r wool i s put i n bag and boiled in clear a e .

m r i B if Take ou t th e bag and add the ta e c. Boil before y using d f erent kinds of mordan t , violet shades

- w w . p utting i n the blue dyed yarn , h ich must not be cooled may be obta ined from the bl ue dye in log ood ‘ wi h W 1 h r . the ello s too m uch . hen i t has boiled i n y liquid , These colors are not as pretty or fast as th e others

The co w w ibove e . it i s takenout . dye is oled ith cold ater to about mention d a4s FO O T- POWER LOOM WEAVI N G

D ar k B lu e Violet Viole t with Cochineal Yarn O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O For th e ﬁr st violet, yarn must be dyed blue then red . , Alum ( mordant ) The yarn is done in the same manner as for green . li m O u 0 0 ( blue dye ) 0 0 0 When th e yarn has been ' boiled i n the blue dye i t is dried , Cochineal w ith out rinsing . 55 . Handle as N o . Cochineal is powdered ﬁne and put to soak the day

’ . w Medium before doing the red dyeing I t is then put in clear a ter , B l ue Twlet La boiled for ten minutes and well skimmed . y th e dry Ya r n - a in A blue dyed y rn th e boiling dye, turn it around quickly lum ( mordant ) wet r e li m so that it gets , and boil , stirring constantly for the O u ( blue dye ) quired time ; then take it out and cool before washing . Cochineal

l b u t 1 hr . If the co or does not seem to be red enough , the yarn Handle as above boil to c s may be left i n th e dye until cold . This will help wi th olor B lu e Vio let w a r k . hich h ve a ve y dar blue grou n d I n that case, add a Ya rn 9 7 little more soaked cochineal and let the yarn boil longer . Alum ( mordant ) 28or If the color is redder than desired boil th e yarn a 2 , Olium ( blue dye ) 50 211 0 ” shorter time in the red dye, but not less than half an hour . Cochineal too ' If the foundation blue color is light , this cannot Handle as above . be remedied after the yarn has been i n the cochi neal dye . Among th e following recipes are many possibiliti es by Light B lu e Violet

Yarn 2 50 gr . V the rela tion between Olium and cochineal . O r arying ( Alum ( mordan t ) 32 g .

When the yarn has been mordanted , boil for D ar k B lack Violet

56 . r after color of N o . Yarn 2 50 g .

Alum ( mordant ) 50 gr . ar k Red i let 6 0 . D V o r Olium ( blue dye ) 1 0 g . Yarn 50 r . Cochineal g Alum ( mordant )

M ordant the yarn as usual and dye bl ue . When Olium ( blue dye ) c d e 1 hr . in co h ineal y Coch ineal

2 50 FO O T- PO WER LOOM WEAVI NG

d is w o d dyed according as th e liqui dark or light , more or less must be ell dissolved an d the dye must be c ole before

. A in red or blue littl e of the blue dye will a lways be lef t the goods is put back in the liquid .

' . all w c the red dye In dye to hich i ron or opper vitriol is added , the

’ r - no e I t The ya n for these after dyes is mordanted as usual goods m ust t lie still aft r i t is th rough boiling . is

. l be k e and is boiled in the cooled red liquid I t may a so dyed best to ta e i t ou t immediately , cool quickly and rins in

w w . ligh t bl ue so tha t the red becomes the chief color . clean ater until i t is ashed

A dark scum will always form on the dye when it. cools lue Vi let with Gr und ine ffe B o o P and this wi ll spot the goods . Th e same e ct will be had Yarn also if the dye -stuﬂi is allowed to run down a part of the

G . round pine goods after being h ung up . Logwood

3 6 . M ordant and dye as No . ell w r wn with a ber r Leaves 69 . Y o B o B y y

Yarn 2 50 gr . B iu e Violet with Chickweed r Alum ( mordan t ) 4 0 g . Ya rn 7 50 r . Bayberry leaves ( dried ) . g Chickweed The yar n is mordanted and dyed as for yellow see No . Logwood 4 r ) and is taken out and 1 5 to 30 g . copper sulphate is A a ) lum ( mord nt 1 1 h r . . ' “ a dded Boil th e yarn 4 to 7 . 3 . Mordant and dye as No “ a is it If very dark color desired , let boil again in the ne e w same or a w dye . Th e yarn must be dried b t een each B r own Dyes dyeing j ust as in the heather dyeing . This i s a very fast wn w Bro i s obtained by m ixing yello , red and bl ack color . ff dyestu s . S a w ff ell r wn with Alder ar k ever l bro n dyestu s are found complete in certain 7 0 . Y owB o B

and F 2 50 r . barks and roots in a n umber of lichens . rom herbs Yarn g d an s w . leave , bro n is seldom obtained

br in o u t w a Al dr 5 k . To g the bro n colors , copper or iron sal t der bark ( y ) g r and d w w m ust often be added to the yellow o r red dyes tuff . When The ya n is mordanted dye like the yello ith 1 c v e . o these salts, su h as iron or copper itriol , are added , they ald r bark ( see No B u t it is b iled in the liquid to BRO W N D YES 2 51

2 t . hrs . and lef until cold I t wanted still darker i t may The mordants are dissolved i n boiling water and in new be dri ed and boil ed agai n a lder ba rk dye . This sti rred . Pu t in the ya rn and boil one hour and leave until color darkens in time . cold

The dry , ripe berries are broken , put to soak and bo iled 1 r nz e r w i uckt B 7 . B o B o n w th B hor n ur l; one hour i n clear water . Pu t in the m ordanted yarn and w e 1 2 let i t boil ith the b rries to h rs . and then take out . D 0 r r 5 0 . y bark . g S train the l iquid and add the copper acetate . Boil th e A r lum 3 5 . 1 h r g yarn again 4 to .

ﬁne n r a d 3 h s . Chop th e bark , soak boil To the strained 7 4 Li ht Red - r wn with Gr a S t ne Lichcn . g B o y o s . w un liquid , add th e alum and hen i t is dissolved , th e dry

0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 r . n r n e Yarn g i o da t d yarn is laid in the boil ing dye . Boil in this D r y lichens 1 kg 1 2 hr s . to , and let i t remain u ntil cold ﬁne c Crush the li hens and soak over n igh t, a n d then t 7 2 r nz e r wn wi h Wa lnut Leav es n wa . . B o B o t boil i n a copper ke tle i n a reasonable amou t of ter

2 . As r Boil the un mordanted yarn i n this to hrs this Ya r n 2 50 g .

e e ta . A 4 r dy becomes very th ick , the yarn must be stirr d cons ntly l um ( mordan t ) 0 g . 1 The hanks must be hung fa r apart and be well shaken . F k . res h walnu t leaves . g h Thi s color becomes clouded easily unless this i s done . 1 r . Boil leaves . and strain w A fast bro n col or is th e result . Th e mordan ted v arn boils in the dye 1 to

ar k Reddish r wn with S t ne Dickens 7 5 . is left til l cold . D B o o

2 0 r . r 0 0 0 5 Ya n 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 g i B r own. with Ju n per B er r ies L c 1 1 k . i hens 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 to % g Ya rn Crush ﬁne th e stone lichens and strew wel l between Alum the y a rn which is l aid i n l ayers with th e l i chen s i n an iron w Cream of tarta r kettle . The yarn m ust be el l covered and som e large Mo rdant ' Copper sulphate pieces of lich ens placed between each layer of yarn . The A w w mmon ia chloride . yarn must be wet when laid do n . Pou r on cold ater ni w Ju per berries 1 Let i t soak a few h ours before boiling . Boi l slo ly and

a . hr s Copper acet te evenly 2 to 6 . 2 52 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

r w If th e yarn i s to be very da k , it must be treated again Handle after ards like the other lichen colors . If

w new a . ith lichens and in the same m nner If one has one has not enough lichens , the color may be darkened by some used m adder dye, this may be used instead of wa ter . a dding iron sulphate to the dye . But the yarn m ust ﬁr St

w - ma S be . w Wool y be dyed in the ame manner . This is more taken out This bro n color ill be a little more gray All easily dyed bu t the y arn is ap t to be clouded unless one i s ish if lichens only are used . these dyes are absolutely

r . as . ve y careful I t must have plenty of room . f t

ar r eenis r wit Tr e Lichen 0 8 3 7 6 . D k G h B wn h e s or M S anda l r wn Gr a r wn o 7 9 . B o ( y B o )

a 2 50 r . 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 50 r . Y rn g Ya rn 0 0 0 0 0 0 g L 1 k . S 0 0 0 50 r . ichens to g an talic acid 0 0 0 0 0 0 g

as . O O O O O O O 50 O O O O O O O r This color is handled above Madder g .

50 r . Li ht r o n i h I celan M s M ulberry g 7 7 . g B w w t d o s 1 Oak gall 5 gr . 2 50 r . Y. arn g

Iron sulphate 1 0 to 1 5 gr . Moss 2 50 gr . and M adder, santalic acid, m ulberry oak gall are and ﬁne. Clean , rinse chop th e moss This is placed 3 ﬁne h r . pounded , p ut in a bag and boiled 34 The yarn is between the l ayers of yarn i n a kettle . The yarn must be

“ pu t dry i nto the liquid and boiled with the bag h r . and w ou wa 1 . 2 el l covered with moss . Pou r ter and boil to

. Add h r s then both are taken ou t the iron sulphate and cool , , or longer . The yarn may also be hung on sticks and

and then boil the yarn 5 to 1 0 m inutes . b oiled with the moss like the ligh t yellow brown with stone

If wanted darker, use m ore i ron sulphate . lichens .

ar Red - r wn with a dder 7 ar k r w i I celan M0 8 8 8 0 . D k B o M 8 . D B o n w th d r Yarn 2 50 g .

O 4 r . O 5 Alum O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O g 500 7 50 r . M oss to g Mor dant

1 r . 0 6 Cream of tarta r 0 0 0 0 0 0 g Cooking sal t 50 gr .

1 2 5 r . M 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 The moss is handled as above and laid in layers with adder g

1 2 r . Oak gall O O O O O O O O O O O O O g the yarn in an iron kettle .

1 0 r . w wa k Iron sulphate g Strew the sal t bet een , and pour on ter and eep

1 hr . I t. a warm and boil for 4 8 h rs . m ay stand i n an oven or on Mord nt the yarn as usual Put the soaked mad W w w . a h eating stove der i n cl ear ater h en th e l iq uid i s milk arm , add the

2 54 FO O T- POWER LO OM WEA VIN G

’ Gr ee r wi La M n 8 5 . n G a th d s a tle e 1 h r . a e y y boil d to I ron sulph te as u sual is add d ( see No .

2 r 54 w Yarn 50 g . ) and the yarn is agai n ell boiled . A lum 2 6 0 gr . I / ight Gr a/y 1 r Cream of tartar 6 g . M ordant 2 r Yarn 50 g . F ’ 1 1 k . resh lady s man tle . /2 to g k Oa O O O O O O O 3 r . gall O O O O O O g r I ron sulphate 5 to 3 0 g . M ulberr y wood gr . i The yarn s mordanted as usual . Madder th ’ B oil e lady s mantle 1 h r . and strain . Boil the 0 3 r . Iron sulphate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 g l dd 1 r R . A mordanted yarn in this iquid h . emove thi s w The oak gall , mulberry ood , and madder is boiled t the i ron sulpha e . Boi l th e yarn in th e l iquid u ntil the u mnor danted The dry , yarn is put in the boiling dye c olor is dark enough . h r and boiled . The yarn is taken out and th e iron

sulph ate add ed . .Th e yarn is agai n put back an d boil ed Gr ee Gr a with S r r el 8 6 . n y o hr .

. 2 50 r . diﬁ erent f Yarn g By taking more or less of the dyestu fs , the b W w t . hen in the sorrel dye, yarn has een dyed black ( see color will have a yello ish , reddish or violet one More

89 - can a e No . ) from the after dye one get gray gre n after iron sulph ate darkens it.

‘

n 1 h r . or color . The wet unmordanted ya r is boiled to D es n 1 2 Black y l onger in this l iquid . Th e l iquid m ay easily sta d to a w B l ck dyes can , like the gray , be made i th the aid of days in an iron kettle .

i ron salts from the plants containing tannic acid . B ut they

- can f w . Gi r a with S umac also be obtained from the blue dye stu f i n log ood 87 . y

latter is now t l . A r Th is mos genera ly used lthough the dye Yarn 2 50 g .

stuff in logwoo d is bl ue, black may be obtained from i t by 1 0 r . M ulberry wood . g

using differen t sorts of mordants . In order th at th e black Sumac 2 5 gr . a w s shall not be too bl uish , li ttle yello dye hould be added Oak gall 1 0 gr .

r w o . Iron sulphate 1 0 g . to the log o d t For . w w h as a black dyes , an i ron kettle is best Un inned cop The mulberry ood , h ich been so ked , is boiled

c . m oak a per m ay be used , but not tinned opper kettles h r . and then the su ac and gall are dded and _ , u t to boilin d e Logwo od is always p in a bag be boiled and , to . g y , boiled The yarn i s placed dry in the ' and BLACK D YES— AFTER D YES 2 55

w — save time, the goods m ay be boiled at the same time as the used again to dye oolens and cotton goods good s that

“ - oi a . bag . But i t must h ave plenty room i n the kettle . do not req ui re decided color These after dyes are more

r ett . a r e Goods dyed black m us t be dried immediately after dye or less fast, but are very y y The most are f st as ing an d then washed well in strong soap water an d rinsed gards washing and can be used for articles th at are not W w a . in clean ater un til i t i s absolutely cle r hen the black m uch exposed to sunshine . w and dyes are ell boiled p roperly handled , they d o not The goods is mordanted and i s handled the same a s

c . r cro k , but are absolutely fast previously desc ibed . If one is dyeing rags and such com a ‘ m on things , the mord nt , if i t be alum or crea m of tarta r , lack wit S or ic 8 9 . B h l - may be put i n the after dye direct . ! r Yarn 2 50 g .

F 1 k . resh sorrel . to g Yello w After-Dyes 1 r Log wood 7 5 g . D ifferen t yellow after - dyes may be m ixed together a nd r Birch ashes 2 50 g . W t - c 1 the alum added at once . ith af er dye of heather, otton Boil the sorrel to 2 hrs . i n a clean scrubbed i ron ket and linen may both be dyed yellow. This is a pretty color . . S a co u tle tr i n , s u r the kettle before p tting th e dye back n for th e warp i n simple rugs a d carpets . I n this the wet unmordan ted yarn is boiled 2 h rs . and t - w o In th e af er dye of ground pine, o l and cotton may c . l ies i n th e liquid until old Th e yarn shoul d be a dark ' r e- - w a be dyed . If th ey be boiled in used log ood dye, good w dve gra y green . Put to soak the log ood , the day before ' I t bl ue gray color i s obtai ned both i n wool and cotton .

o c w 2 . nd a . ing . and b il in lea r ater h rs a t ke th e bag out may be u sed for warp and carpet rags . The mordan ted yarn which has been sq ueez ed ou t of the sorrel dye and rinsed in l ukewarm wa ter i s pu t in the Red Aft er- D yes d dye log wood liq u id and boiled 2 h rs . When the logwoo . . W Madder dye may be used to the last d rop ool , rags c w 1 2 w i s nearly old , i t is m ixed ith to l iter of lye h ich i s and cotton yarn may be dyed in it. I t m ust boil and the w c made by pouring boiling ater on the bir h ashes , stirred goods will become a light brownish red . Cotton and linen Let and let stand till cold and clear . the ya rn lie in this dye very ligh t and fade in the sun , but th e color is very

r W e . r s d . h e for 1 2 h . and then y ash l at r pretty and may be used for warp where whi te is not wan ted . Fur ther U se of U sed Dye Liquids The after-dye may also be used as the foundation color for

- f may a t w . A When yellow or r ed dyes h ve been m ade, the af er darker red and bro n shades little dye stu f be ~h liquid will al wa s contai n enough dye so that they may be saved for t is . , y 2 56 10 0 1 2 13 0 WEB LOOM WEAVIN G

dye may be used until there is o n lythe clear Dye ing o f Old Go ods _ Coch ineal water left . The ligh t red almost colorless dye makes pretty w a If one ishes to dye old, f ded goods , this m ust first t w w 1 ligh tints for old pure ool , hite dresses and blouses and w w h r , be ell ashed and then boiled 4 . i n sod a water ( whi ch

f w w ' a large amoun t o oolen s eater yarn m ay be dyed ligh t must not be strong enough to inj ure the goods ) so tha t as red i n such liquid . c m u h of th e original dye is removed as possible . Then

If salmon color is desired , a tin solution i s added , and w . A w rinse i t ell fter tha t handle as the hite . the clean dry goods isallowed to boi l i n the liquid to 1/Q When old goods is to be dyed a darker color than the w , hr . The amount of tin solution is regulated by th e eight F r original m ust be chosen . o suc cess a great deal depends

0 1 00 r . 2 r . 5 of the goods . For 50 goods use to g prepared g ne on the foundation color, as the w m u st be dark eno ugh clear yellow tin solution . to cover th e old . If a more bluish red is wanted,mordant the goods ﬁ r st O w y nly pale yello or pink may be d ed yellow. i n alum and then boil withou t th e tin . ellow ale Pale y , , p violet, l igh t gray , ligh t brown very Madder and coch inea l dyes may be m ixed . ,

pale green and red may be dyed red . A te - D es Blu e f r y w Pale yello , pale green , violet, blue gray and light i - w w Indigo g ves no after dyes , as th e goods al ays dra s brown may be dyed blue . With ground pine and ch ickweed ' w d e w i s . I n all th e color nto i t elf log ood y , ho ever, ligh t s be dye , pretty bl ues may obtained .

- gray blue after dye is found . r ed be Blue and may dyed violet .

- V o et A er Dyes All i c b e o i l ft other l ght olors may dyed br wn .

The sam e is true of these dyes , as for the red after All . colors , ligh t or dark may be dyed black . dyes where madder or cochineal has been used . , w r e- n I t m us t be understood that ith dyeing, the ew

- color unless w w a Gr een A e D es , i t is very light, ill al ays have tone of ft r y ‘

. - the ol d ground color Green after dyes a re not worth while using . They only d Unless one knows what dyes were used originally it give a dirty , undec ide color ,

- w l r is o B rown gray and black atter dyes i l give lighte best to dye a sample especially if the go ds be of value,

- as the resul t may prove to be a differen t color than the one shades . The gray after dyes may be quite dainty and ' is to sa planned for . The old color dissolved , so y, by the pretty .

- new an new . From bl ack logwood after dyes , gray blue is obtained . , and forms en tirely compound

I N D E X

ev ons : w. o n n at a e n Abbr iati ( w rki g drawi g ; ( p ) , p tt r ; draft .

- A ons of o e s , in e n e v n 48 D o c s e n 92 92 e e a e ns doub e wea 1 8 4 dap tati , b rd r patt r w a i g , ; g Tra k patt r , ; Eight h ddl p tt r , l ving , ; of ou e oven e n 1 8 6 1 87 oo s and W n o s e n 8 3 8 3 1 8 3 1 84 d bl w patt r , ; D r i d w patt r , ; , n s s o f oven e ns 1 01 ou e B ow Kno e n 9 1 90 ‘ A al y i w patt r , D bl t patt r , ; o u e C o ee s 84 84 Ex re ing D ni a e s 1 1 5 W a h , D bl hari t h l , ; p ss s p tt rn B e m n 1 9 a i g , Do u e no ons 60 din 60 F n c W k ba 48 49 a y , bl S wball adaptati , ; ( ) , ; or g ; e s Ross o e 1 1 0 B t y t w l , ; 6 1 d l o a e n 7 6 dn 7 5 7 6 Fe era Kn t p tt r , ; ( ) , ; mon e n 55 . 56 57 ‘ Big Dia d patt r , ; ( dr ; o u e no e n 60 9 u e a ness fox d ub e wea 1 94 D bl S wball patt r , ; 5 ; Fig r H r , o l ving , e c n oo en oo s 2 57 Bl a hi g w l g d . 60 h eads use of 52 Fine t r , , B oc n out e n om af 1 05 , - - l ki g a patt r fr a dr t ou e e v n 1 7 7 e and six h ar nesé n s a e . 1 1 9 D bl w a i g , Fiv Da i h p tt rn, ock o e n 6 2 and 62 Bl W rk patt r , ; ou e e v n coun e nes 2 06 2 09 sh u e 2 2 4 w. 232 D bl w a i g , t rpa . , , Fly ttl , ; ( oom n o e e n 7 3 n Bl i g Fl w r patt r , ; a d 2 1 4 2 oo oo ex e nd wood 2 1 5 w. 2 1 6 00 2 01 202 2 03 204 20 6 , s a ; , , , , , , F t t l , t til , ; ( ; 4 7 207 08 2 0 1 1 , 2 , 9 , 2 0 , 2 1 2 , 2 1 3 ; 2 00 . 2 7 B ue es 24 1 e - es 2 56 y , ; y . l d att r d 2 02 2 05 2 07 21 0 2 1 3 ou -h ar ess D a e 1 1 5 , , , , F r n anish p tt rn, B o n n e 3 5 bbi wi d r , o u e e v n n emen fo r 1 8 3 ou -h eddl e wea n rin ci le of 1 01 ’ D bl w a i g , arra g t , F r vi g , p p s , on e e n ’ B s c 7 1 7 2 . ill . apart Mar h patt r , ; ; ( o u e e v n ove s n 1 9 8 1 9 4 ou Wh ee s 91 91 D bl w a i g , L r Chai , ; , F r l , ; 7 2 1 95 1 95 Fox Trail a e 8 3 83 ; p tt rn, ; B o e s ons in e n e v n 4 8 ' rd r , adaptati patt r w a i g , ou e e v n ov e s Kno 1 9 8 1 9 6 D bl w a i g , L r t , ; , o e com n ons 52 51 - B rd r bi ati , ; 1 9 1 9 oose E e D a e n 1 1 8 7 ; 7 G y anish p tt r , B o e s in e n e v n 4 6 ’ rd r patt r w a i g , ou e oven te n 1 7 8 and Govern or Ga den a e 7 0 69 . , ; ; ’ D bl w pat r , ; ( ill ) s r p tt rn oc s e e te n 8 7 87 Bradd k D f at pat r , ; 1 7 9 6 9

an s 1 1 5 Green d es 2 43 a fter p d es 2 56 o ee ons 6 5 65 6 6 , , , ; y , Chari t Wh l adaptati , ; , Draft D i h y for ou e oven e n n s s 1 8 6 G uess Me a e 93 dn 93 o ee e n 6 4 n 64 , ; ( ) , Chari t Wh l patt r , ; a d Draft d bl w patt r a al y i , ; p tt rn ec ed e 4 8 1 8 8 k Ch k pap r , No e n H andba s 99 1 00 99 1 00 o e m 32 , , 1 64 ; e s , 1 22 , 1 23 1 2 4 g , , ; , Cl th b a , Draft rw gia Sw di h , , 2 o cons uc on of 8 1 25 H n measu es, 57 Cl th , tr ti , a d r

e n e s 1 2 1 H a ness , 3 1 o on e ns 55 , , C l i al patt r , Draft r adi g a Sw di h r

e n o mu e for 234 H edd e ame 24 w. 2 5 o o n o uc n o f 40 y , , , ; ( C l r, i tr d i g , D i g f r la l fr

e n old oo s 2 56 H edd e b oo 2 7 W. 28 Counter ane 65 79 8 1 y , k , ; ( b , , , D i g g d l ' D e u s . use o f 2 55 Hedd e h o ses 31 w. 3 1 Coun e ne e ns 203 20 6 2 09 2 1 4 y liq id , , l r , ; ( t rp a patt r , , , , ; es and e n 2 33 H e e s c s 2 5 2 00 20 1 2 02 2 03 2 04 206 2 07 208 209 y y , ddl ti k , , . , , , , , , , D D i g ' es e o 2 3 4 r ed 2 35 ue n Hedd es knottin of 2 4 2 1 2 2 1 3 2 00 2 02 2 05 2 0 7 y , y , ; , ; , ee , l , g , . , D ll w bl gr , ; , , d o f 26 243 v o e 247 v o e . coc ne H edd es threa ing , , 2 1 0 . 2 1 3 ; i l t , ; i l t with hi al , l 2 48 o n 2 50 2 3 H eddl es w e 2 4 os s e n 89 89 ; , ; r y , 5 ; c , 2 54 , , Cr patt r , ; br w g a bla k ir H ne omb wea e 1 2 4 osses s ecur n of in n 1 1 o y C v , Cr , i g , warpi g , - ness am s ea ve 1 69 1 67 H n c e 99 9 9 u t ns 48 49 50 53 66 80 Eight har D a k w , ; o ey u k , ; C r ai , ; , , , , S l h -h ness m s on e ve 1 7 0 u n e ve n s - 1 1 9 Eig t ar Da a k diag al w a , C rtai w a , Da i h , - ness am s e ve . e s . 1 diana ame Rose 8 6 8 6 Eight h ar D a k w a , Sw di h draft , n Fr , ; m s -d ou e eave 1 6 4 1 66 I C a e r n 7 7 7 8 7 8 Da a k bl w , rish hain p tt . ; ; n s and N o e i n e v n 1 1 5 - ness oom 1 30 1 37 s e c 1 32 I ul e n in Sw d a e ns 1 23 Da i h rw g a w a i g , Eight har l , , ; ( k t h ) , rreg ar thr adi g e ish p tt r , n s for e - ed e ou e e ve 1 86 - ness e s e n 1 29 1 37 I rr e ular treadlin 59 Da i h draft ight h dl d bl w a , Eight har Sw di h patt r , , g g . 2 60 IND EX — Continu e d

' Kin s Flowe a e n 8 8 88 a er n h a ness for doubl e wea n 1 90 V n n nowb all 9 2 92 g r p tt r , ; P tt r , vi g , irgi ia S , ; ni n B a 4 8 49 a e n r e ea in wea n 1 02 Wh eel of o une 7 6 7 7 K tti g g , ; P tt r p t vi g , F rt , ; ; Kno n th e h eddl es 2 4 a e wea n e emen s 4 1 7 7 tti g , P tt rn vi g l t , a e n wea n in e es 4 8 Wh ose 9 4 9 6 95 P tt r vi g t xtil , ig R , ; ; — a mbs tie u for a te n wea in 53 w. L , p p t r v g, ; ( a e ns ol on a 55 Wh e ouse 8 5 8 5 P tt r , C i l , it H , ; 52 a e ns ol on al 9 7 9 8 9 8 W nd lowe 8 1 9 4 95 P tt r , C i , ; ; i F r, ; ; n in s c s 2 3 Layi g ti k , W ndow ash 8 6 8 6 a e ns o on a am ond 55 56 , ; P tt r , C l i l , Big Di , ; ; i S ease 9 L , o To s 63 64 65 6 8 7 0 7 1 57 , , , , , , ( ill ) . Pill w p eas e ods 2 4 L r , ine no a e n 7 4 7 5 7 5 ' loc Wo 62 an , ; B k rk , ; d 62 P K t p tt r eo a d Sk a e n 82 82 L p r in p tt r , ; n eed 2 8 oom n F owe 7 3 and 4 ac 3 , R , Bl i g l r, ; 7 Pl i g L of th e al e 97 9 8 9 8 ' V , ; ; ily l y a ds Wea n of .40 ona a e s a ch 7 1 7 2 , v g , B p rt M r , ; ; Pl i i nen d a 1 08 Li r ft, o m a e n 9 3 9 3 7 2 Platf r p tt r , ; L nen owe s 1 08 10 9 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 3 1 14 ’ i t l , ; , , , , , e a n a on wa 9 B addoc s e ea 8 7 Pr p ri g l g rp , , ; 1 8 r k D f t L nen wea es, 0 i v h a o Wh eel 64 and 64 “ C ri t , ; ’ Lo om an sh 2 24 W. 2 2 5 2 2 6 22 7 , , ; ( , , ; uee n s e h 8 8 8 8 D i oss 8 9 89 Q D lig t, ; Cr , ; s e ch 2 24 k t , D o T ac s 9 2 92 g r k , ; Loom a s for a e n m a n , 53 ( W. 52 ' 2 1 , p ; add e 1 9 W. rt p tt r ki g D s an d W ndows 8 3 8 3 R l , ; ( oor i , ; Loom a r s of 9 20 , , ; Ra u s 40 p t oub le B ow no 9 1 90 g R g , D K t , ; Loom wer 7 s m le h and 9 , pq , ; i p , Read n a d a 55 oubl e Ch o h 4 i g r ft, D ari t W eel, 8 ; 8 4 - Loom wed sh , 2 2 4 w. 2 29 2 30 2 31 2 55 , ; ( , , ; Red d es 2 35 a e d es S i Do ubl nowb a 60 59 0 y , ; ft r y , e S ll , ; ; 6 s e ch , 2 2 8 eed th e 2 8 h ead n o f 2 8 44 k t ed e al no 7 6 R , , ; t r i g , , F r K t, ; 7 6 Loom h ead n of 2 7 n of 30 1 3 , , ; y , ee 1 6 war n 1 4 w. t r i g t i g ou Wh ee s 91 91 R l , ; pi g , ; ( F r l , ; Loom s d esi n and cons uc ion 2 24 3 8 , , ee s 37 37 3 9 w. g tr t Fox T a 83 8 3 R l , ; , ; ( ’ r il , ; Lo e s Ch a in a e 1 9 8 1 94 1 95 ’ 1 , ; , ; em o n wa om r eel 6 v r p tt rn o e no s a den 7 0 and R vi g rp fr , G v r r G r , ; 1 95 R an d h a ns a e n 7 9 7 8 69 ings C i p tt r , ; ; ’ Lo e s no a e , 1 98 1 9 6 1 97 ; , ; 7 8 v r K t p tt rn G uess Me 93 93 , ; 1 9 7 R a nd h a ns ada a ions 7 9 7 9 8 0 one uc e 99 9 9 ings C i pt t , ; , H y S kl , ; ose a h b or d e 50 53 50 nd ana ame ose 8 6 8 6 R P t r, , ; I i Fr R , ; M n a dr aft fr om a wo en a e n , 1 01 aki g _ v p tt r ose a h wed sh a e n 1 2 5 I sh Ch a n 7 7 7 8 7 8 R P t S i p tt r , r W ingt o n owe 1 0 8 1 08 ri i , ; ; M a h , ; a tha s t l ’ ° R u g wea n , 1 7 3 ’ ’ King owe 8 8 8 8 . vi g s Fl r, ; M s and o s a e , 1 1 4 ; 1 1 4 p tt rn ’ R u woo 1 7 2 1 7 3 1 7 3 eo a d s n 8 2 8 2 g , l , , ; o e ch e owe 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 ] L p r Ski , ; M lli Pit r t l , ; ; ’ Old sh u l 8 9 89 on s e a e n 4 1 43 Iri Q i t, ; M k B lt p tt r , ; ca e s a e n 8 8 4 Old u l 8 0 8 1 8 2 S rl t Ball p tt r , 4; o dan 2 34 Q i t, ; ; M r t, c eens e l e and wood 2 1 7 2 1 9 w. S r , t xti , , ; ( ' an e ee 67 and 6 7 osa c a e n 20 1 98 1 99 1 9 9 Or g P l , ; M p , 1 ; , ; i tt r ’ 2 2 2 0 , 2 2 2 ; 2 2 1 , 2 3 son s B eau 8 7 87 , ; l Par ty 4 1 7 5 Sea h e l a e n, 1 7 4 ; 1 7 ; Nor we ian a e ns 1 1 9 1 66 ne Cone l oom 9 6 9 8 9 8 S l p tt r g p tt r , , Pi B , ; ; ‘ Sea a e 8 5 85 ne no 7 4 and 7 5 Star p tt rn, ; Pi K t, ; ld I ri u l a e n 8 9 89 h , ; O s Q i t p tt r la o m 9 3 93 elec n th e h eddle combina ions in a e n P tf r , ; S ti g t p tt r Ol d u a e n 80 8 1 8 2 Q ilt p tt r , ; ; ’ ueen s e h 8 8 8 8 wea i , 1 01 Q D lig t, ; v ng Ol ium e a a on of 2 40 , pr p r ti , R ing and Ch a ns 79 ; 7 8 ; 7 8 w n as e e i e a nd wood 2 1 7 s i , e g B k , x , ; O an e ee a e n 67 ; and 67 S i t t t l r g P l p tt r , ca l e a l s 8 4 8 4 S r t B l , ; 2 1 9 - Sea a , 8 5 ; 8 5 h ed 33 add e cons uc on of war n 1 7 w. 1 7 St r , P l , tr ti pi g , ; ( S ’ ’ n s and C s Paw 7 2 4 w. 35 add e use of 1 7 S ail Trail at , ; h u e, 3 ; ( P l , , S ttl ’ 7 3 7 3 3 4 a son s eau 8 7 8 7 ; h u e s c 34 ; ( w. P r B ty , ; S ttl ti k , ‘ — 1 30 oom 1 3 s oi w. a e n a e na e l of 1 05 aﬁar sis ot S un M n and a s 96 9 7 Six h a ness l , 3 ; , ( P tt r , lt r t ana ysis , ; y , oo St r , ; ; r part - n 1 33 d oub e wea 208 2 1 1 n s s of 1 04 9 7 h a ness wed sh a e , l ving , , ; a al y i . Six r S i p tt r

1 4 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHI CH BORROWED ENVIRO NMENTAL DESIGN

I. IBRAKY This boo is du e on the as date Stam e below or k l t p d , n th e a o hich n o d te t w r e ewed. Ren w o s r e su b e t immedia r e ed bo k a j ct o te ecall .

DEC 2 1969