Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 179 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Many thanks to the travellers who used the Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson last edition and wrote to us with helpful BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the hints, useful advice and interesting anec- Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and dotes: Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Barney Smith, Johann Schelesnak, Juan Miguel Mariatti, Kevin Callaghan Cover photograph: Hammock on tropical beach, Maldives; Sakis Papadopoulos, Corbis AUTHOR THANKS Tom Masters A huge thanks first of all to Moritz Estermann, who was my companion for much of my trip, and who provided excellent guidance on fine food and wine, was an expert with pillow menus and remained positive through some of the worst weather I’ve ever seen in Maldives. Thanks also to Paul Roberts, Shauna Aminath, Aaron Sein, Allo Saeed, Zuhair Mohammed, Ahmed Naseer and Ali Rilwan. I owe a huge debt of thanks also to all the resort managers, press officers and guesthouse owners who made great efforts to help me reach their properties, often going way beyond the call of duty; they are sadly way too numerous to name in person, but they know who they are. Destination Editor Assisting Editors Melanie THIS BOOK Joe Bindloss Dankel, Jeanette Wall This 9th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editor Cartographer Gabe Planet’s Maldives guidebook Samantha Forge Lindquist was researched and written by Product Editors Penny Cord- Cover Researcher Tom Masters, who also wrote ner, Bruce Evans Naomi Parker the previous two editions. This Senior Cartographer Thanks to Kate Chapman, guidebook was produced by David Kemp Chris Love, Anne Mason, Claire the following: Book Designer Naylor, Kirsten Rawlings Katherine Marsh ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 181 Index A Banana Reef 66 designer resorts 17 Kuda Giri 76 Aarah 63 Bandos 86 Devana Kandu 105 Kuda Kandu 119 accommodation 162-3, see beaches 26 Dhaalu Atoll 107-11, 108 Kudarah Thila 85 also individual locations bis hulavuu 157 Dhevvadhoo 114 Kuredhoo Express 102 costs 163 Blue Canyon 65 Dhidhdhoo 92 Lady Christine wreck 75 guesthouses 11, 20, 162-3 boat travel 39, 171, 172 Dhidhdhoo Beyru 83 Maa Kandu 119 hotels 163 bodu beru 10, 153, 10 Dhigali Haa 99 Maaya Thila 83 resorts 18-26, 162 Bodu Hithi Thila 65 Dhiffushi 65 Macro Spot 109-10 Addu Atoll 116-20, 118 books 122, 125, 126, 128. Dhivehi language 176-7 Madi Finolhu 99 153-5 air travel 10, 39, 170, Dhivehi script 176 Manta Point 65 171-2, 10 history 124 Dhiyamigili 111 Manta Reef 83 airlines 170, 171 boxfish 143 dhoni travel 172 Milaidhoo Reef 98 Al Barbari, Abu Al Barakat bridges 114 Muthafushi Thila 99 dhonis 134, 155, 31 Yusuf 125 British Loyalty wreck 75 diarrhoea 175 Nassimo Thila 66 alcohol 40, 158 Broken Rock 85 Northern Atolls 91 disabilities, travellers Alifushi 97 Buddhism 70, 124 with 168 Okobe Thila 66 anemonefish 47, 142, 46 Burunee 111 dive sites 28 Orimas Thila 83 anemones 174 business hours 163 Aquarium 66 Panetone 85 angelfish 143 butterflyfish 47, 143, , 32 47 Ari Atoll 82 Rakeedhoo Kandu 105 animals 140-6, 150-2 Banana Reef 66 Rasfari 65 Aquarium 66 C Blue Canyon 65 Shark Point architecture 156 (Addu Atoll) 119 car travel 172 Bodu Hithi Thila 65 Ari Atoll 42, 82-90, 84, 29 Shark Point cell phones 14 British Loyalty wreck 118 accommodation 82, (North Male Atoll) 65 Chickens 35 Broken Rock 85 85-90 Shark’s Tongue 106 children, travel with 16-17, Colosseum 65 activities 83-5 Shipyard 102-3 26, 159, 163, 175 Devana Kandu 105 dive sites 82 SS Seagull wreck 75 climate 163 Dhidhdhoo Beyru 83 diving 83-5 Two Brothers 107 climate change 147-9, 171 Dhigali Haa 99 travel seasons 82 Vaadhoo Caves 76 clownfish, Embudhoo Express 76 travel to/from 90 Vaagali Caves 76 see anemonefish Erlangen wreck 75 travel within 90 Vattaru Kandu 105 coconut oil 156 Fesdu wreck 83 arts 153-5 Velassaru Caves 76 coffee 158 Filitheyo Reef 107 ATMs 165 diving 11, 16, 19, 22, 28-34 Cola’s 35 Fish Head 83 atoll formation 145 Ari Atoll 83-5 Colosseum 65 Fotteyo 105 atoll names 166 certification 29 consulates 164 Fushi Kandu 109 costs 33 coral 140-1, 145 Fushifaru Thila 103 courses 28-9 B costs 163 Giant Clam 106 Baa Atoll 98-102, environmental issues 100 crafts 155-6 Guraidhoo Kandu 76 Baa Atoll Unesco Biosphere 33-4 credit cards 166 Halaveli Wreck 83 Reserve 99 equipment 31-3 culture 122-3, 133-9 Hammerhead Point 83 Badeeu, Eagan North Male Atoll 65-6 Mohamed 154 Hanifaru Huraa 98 Northern Atolls 98-9, Helengeli Thila 65 D 102-3 HP Reef 66 decompression planning 28 Map Pages 000 sickness 174 Kakani Thila 99 recompression Kani Corner 66 chambers 86 Photo Pages 000 dengue fever 173 182 safaris 29-31 Fushi Kandu 109 Portuguese influence 125 Kuredhoo Express 102 safety 173-4 Fushifaru Thila 103 websites 132 Kurumba Island 67, 34 seasons 29 Fuvahmulah 38 Hithadhoo 117 South Male Atoll 76 Hoarafushi 92 L Southern Atolls 105, 106, Holhudhoo 95 Laamu Atoll 111-14, 107, 109-10, 118-19 G Gaafaru Falhu 75 Honky’s 35 112, 17 INDEX dolphins 142 hotels 163 Gaafu Alifu 114-15, 112 lacquer work 155-6 drinks 158 Gaafu Dhaalu 115-16 house names 57 Landhoo 95 drumming, Gadhdhoo 115 HP Reef 66 language 14, 176 D-M see bodu beru Gan 38, 111, 114, 116, 117 Hudhuran Fushi 37, 27 Last Stops 37 Gasfinolhu 66 Hulhudheli 109 legal matters 165 E gay travellers 164 Hulhule 62 lesbian travellers 164 economy 136-7 Gayoom, Maumoon Hulhumale 61 Lhaviyani Atoll 102-3, ecotourism 20 Abdul 128, 135 Hulhumeedhoo 118 100 Edu Faru National Marine geology 145, 148, 149 Huraa 65 lionfish 144, 47 Park 95 Giant Clam 106 Huvadhoo Atoll 114 Lion’s Head 50 electricity 164 global warming 147-9 literature 153-5, see elevation 149 Gnaviyani Atoll 116, 112 also books Embudhoo Express 76 I Grand Friday Mosque & Ibn Battuta 126 Lohi’s 37 environmental issues 66, Islamic Centre 48 luxury resorts 16 147-52 idolatry 137 green sea turtles 59 climate change 147-9, 171 immigration 170 groupers 143 commercial fishing 149 insurance 164, 173, 174 M guesthouses 11, 20, 162-3 erosion 148 internet resources, Maa Kandu 119 Gulhi 76 tourism 149-50 see websites Maafushi 13, 38, 75, 80, Guraidhoo (South Male Isdhoo 113 2, 13 Eriyadu Island 67, 24 Atoll) 75-6, Islam 124-5, 133 Maamigili 83 erosion 148 Guraidhoo (Thaa Atoll) 111 Maaya Thila 83 etiquette 39, 40, 122, Guraidhoo Kandu 76 134, 159 Macro Spot 109-10 Guru’s 37 J exchange rates 15 jacks 144 Madi Finolhu 99 Eydhafushi 98 Jailbreaks 37 Mahibadhoo 83 H jewellery 156 Maldives basics 14-15 Haa Alifu 92-3 Male 9, 41, 44, 45-61, 49, F Jumeirah Vittaveli Resort Haa Dhaalu 38, 93-5 79-80, 52, 54, 62, 8 Faafu Atoll 107, 108 21 Halaveli Wreck 83 accommodation 44, 51-3 family travel 16-17, 26, 159, Hammerhead Point 83 activities 50-1 163, 175 K hammerhead sharks 9, climate 44 ferry travel 39, 172 Kaadedhoo 115 141, 9 entertainment 56 Fesdu wreck 83 Kaashidhoo 75 Hanifaru Huraa 98 food 44, 53-6 Feydhoo 117 Kadhoo 111 Hanifaru Unesco Biosphere for children 51 Filitheyo Island Resort Reserve 99 Kakani Thila 99 highlights 48 107, 3 Hanimaadhoo 93 Kandhuvalu Mosque 92 information 56-60 Filitheyo Reef 107 Hassan, Mohammed Kanditheemu 95 safety 45 films 122 Waheed 131 Kani Corner 66 shopping 56 Fish Head 83 hawitta 116 Kate’s 37 sights 45-50 fish, see individual species health 173-5 kavaabu 157 travel seasons 44 fishing, commercial 149 heat exhaustion 175 Kelaa 92 travel to/from 60 flutemouths 143 heatstroke 175 Kibidhoo 111 travel within 60-1 flying gurnards 143 hedhikaa 157 Kondey 114 walking tour 52 Fonadhoo 111 Helengeli Thila 65 Kuda Bandos 63 Manadhoo 95 food 17, 24-6, 157-8 Heyerdahl, Thor 116, Kuda Giri 76 Manta Point 65 Fotteyo 105 125, 129 Kuda Kandu 119 manta rays 141-2, 32, 58 fruit bats 150 Himmafushi 65 Kudahuvadhoo 107 Manta Reef 83 Funadhoo 62, 95 history 124-32 Kudarah Thila 85 maps 165 books 124 Kudhoo 114 Maradhoo 117 British influence 127 Kulhuduffushi 93 marine life 9, 13, 46-7, 58-9, Map Pages 000 Dutch influence 126 Kumundhoo 93 87, 140-6, 152, 175, 9, Photo Pages 000 independence 127 Kuramathi 86 12, 32, 46-7, 58-9 183 mas huni 157 P responsible travel 150 surgeonfish 146 media 136 painting 155 Ribudhoo 109 sweetlips 146 medical services 173 Panetone 85 rock cod 145 Meemu Atoll 105-7, 30 parrotfish 47, 144, 47 romantic getaways 16, 19 T Milaidhoo Reef 98 passports 170 teashops 53 Milandhoo 95 Pasta Point 37 telephone services 14, 15, S INDEX mobile phones 14 pennant butterflyfish 47, safari boats 163 167-8 money 14, 165-7 32, 47 safety tetrapods 50 ATMs 165 Piddies 37 diving 173-4 Thaa Atoll 111, 112 M-V