We Explore the Roots and Shoots of Vegan Bakery ISSUE 13 / MARCH 2019 / @ BAKERYBUSINESS

THE VEGAN CAKERY / BREAD & BEYOND / RETARDER PROVERS / DOUGHNUTS BAKERY BUSINESS / MARCH 2019 /MARCH BUSINESS BAKERY

We explore the roots and shoots of vegan bakery ISSUE 13 / MARCH 2019 / @_BAKERYBUSINESS

BAKERY BUSINESS Welcome

Follow us at @_BakeryBusiness on Twitter and @bakerybusinessmag on Instagram! EDITORIAL ROSANNA SPENCE / Editor [email protected] 01474 520 239

CONTRIBUTORS ALICE COOKE / AMY AU / CRAFTY BAKER / CHRIS HASSALL ADVERTISING SAM WHITE / Divisional Director [email protected] 01474 520 254 GET UP, CLASSIFIED YVONNE VEAL [email protected] EDITOR 01474 520 244 ROSANNA SPENCE SUBSCRIPTIONS STAND UP [email protected] It’s not just this month’s pages that are awash with got all the important information. Head to page 35 PUBLISHED BY vegan ideas and insight. Visit anywhere that mar- to hear Chris Hassall from Checkit as he unpicks H2O PUBLISHING Joynes House, London Road, kets, makes and sells food and you cannot ignore the basics. If you twist and flip your magazine to Gravesend, DA11 0AJ that society’s diet choices have changed. Tradition- the Craft Bakers Association’s monthly Bakers’ 0345 500 6008 al meat and two veg preferences are certainly not Review, there’s more insight there that will leave forgotten, don’t worry, but they are jostling for space you feeling prepared for the potential outcomes. JAMIE ROBBINS / Managing Director in the limelight with plant-based alternatives. Something that particularly struck me was a point [email protected] Campaigns like Veganuary continue to beckon raised by the association’s political consultant / Editorial Director TRISTAN O’HANA forward more and more people towards a plant- David Smith. He notes that social media and in- [email protected] based diet – a rite of passage, if you will, for those ternet communication has dramatically changed DESIGN who are unsure about fully committing to vegan- the way government consultations work. Having MARC AYRES / Studio Manager ism from the offset. Thankfully, this evolution of these consultations hosted online means anyone NEPOR NGOBEH / Production the western diet hasn’t left bakers in the shadows, can join in – notably special interest groups with JIM LYONS / Senior Designer oh no. You have been impressing the public with strong social media views, among others. While MATT BAILEY / Designer your weird and wonderful vegan takes on meaty these groups are well-meaning, they may not un- STINE ARNULF / Junior Designer Printed by BUXTON PRESS classics, and completely new product development derstand the implications some outcomes may that has seen your ranges flourish. If you need- have on running a food business. Like David, I im- No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publishers. ed any more reassurance, or you’re just keen to plore bakers to head to consult.defra.uk and type know more about the vegan march, wander over to ‘amending allergen information’ into the search page 24 for Alice Cooke’s take on everything. Or bar on the website. So get up and stand up for your if you want to see how The Vegan Cakery owner views to protect your bakery business before the Michelle Orme has been satisfying omnivores consultation closes on 29 March. 6,780 March 2018 with her award-winning bakes for longer than the ROSANNA SPENCE current plant-based trend, head across to page 14. EDITOR A member of the Audit Bureau of Circulations. Terms of controlled circulation: Pub and bar Vegan food choices are often linked to the wid- groups: owners, directors, managers and er free-from diet, including intolerances and aller- buyers. Pub and bar owners, tenants, lessees, managers and chefs. Individuals in regional gies. Now, you’ve probably already heard about the and national wholesale/cash & carry and government’s consultation on allergy labelling, but contract caterers. if this is news to you – or you’re still unsure about what it could mean for your bakery – then we’ve

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BAKERY BUSINESS Contents

NEWS 6 Latest industry updates– INTERVIEW The Vegan Cakery’s Michelle Orme SOCIAL + DIGITAL shares her cruelty-free story 10 Twitter and Instagram INGREDIENTS INDEX 11 Mintec’s mad about seeds NEW OPENINGS Fire up the ovens 14 12 DOUGHNUTS LEGAL Eat more hole foods 13 Cadbury’s purple reign COMMENT 18 35 Checkit checks out allergen labelling MARKET PLACE YEAST Rise and shine with Alice Cooke 40 Ingredients and more CRAFTY BAKER 42 Patisserie Valerie’s job losses PRODUCTS & SERVICES 37 43 Classified information

FREE-FROM VEGAN BAKERY Alice Cooke joins the march of the vegans... or does she?

Don’t forget to check out the official CBA Bakers’ Review at the back of this magazine! (Just twist and flip)

2405 NEWS

@_BakeryBusiness

PATISSERIE VALERIE SAVED FROM THE BRINK National bakery café concept Patisserie Valerie has been rescued by Causeway Capital Partners, an Irish equity firm. The Daily Telegraph reported that a deal was agreed on 14 February to save 96 of the remaining 121 outlets – preserving most of the company’s 2,000 jobs. The brand’s chief executive Steve Francis will be kept on board. Administrator KPMG had already closed 70 unprofitable stores, which led to the loss of more than 900 jobs. Our Crafty Baker has their say on the losses on page 42.

THERE’S STILL TIME TO ENTER THE NATIONAL BAKERY AWARDS! HEAD TO NATIONALBAKERYAWARDS.CO.UK BEFORE FRIDAY 5 APRIL FOR MORE INFORMATION. GOOD LUCK AND THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HAS ENTERED SO FAR!

The site in Milton Keynes NEW HEAD OF TECHNICAL AT LANTMÄNNEN UNIBAKE

Lantmännen Unibake UK has appointmented Dr Stefania Cuf- fari as its new head of technical. Cuffari will be responsible for the technical teams, ensuring the highest standards are achieved, as well as developing and improving technical effi- ciencies across the business. Her primary objectives upon joining the business include aligning both factories to ensure all teams work to the same standards and procedures using a Quality Management System, as well as embarking upon an agenda of reducing waste and complaints through technical strategy, updated machinery and coordinating with the production floor to educate personnel to a higher level of understanding on product, process and customer focus.

CARRS FOODS MAKES SUNDAY TIMES Joint MDs of Carrs Foods TOP 10 LIST FOR GROWTH Branded bakery company Carrs Foods has achieved a top 10 placing in the Sunday Times International Track 200 for the third year in a row. The firm is in eighth place in the 2019 list, with an increase in annual international sales of 158% as a result of significant growth in the US. The company has further increased total annual turnover from £49m in 2017, to £69m in 2018. Manches- ter-based Carrs Foods was founded in 1986 and co-owners Paul Baker and Jeremy Gilboy led a management buyout in 2004. Carrs Foods sells baked goods under several brands: the Euro- pean-style St Pierre range, Baker Street and the Paul Hollywood Ready-To-Bake range. The company started trading in the US in 2014.

06 NEWS

GREGGS CONFIRMS VEGAN SAUSAGE ROLL-OUT NEWS FROM SUPPLIERS New managing director at Bakels Greggs has confirmed that due to high customer demand, its vegan sausage roll will Bakery ingredients manufacturer British soon be available in all 1,950 of its shops. Bakels has appointed Hayley Calthorpe The vegan snack was originally launched in 950 outlets, but will be available na- as managing director. The appointment tionwide from Friday 8 March, with 250 additional shops per week beginning to sell it comes as part of a planned succession until it is everywhere. for the former MD Paul Morrow; he sits The vegan sausage roll was launched on 3 January, gaining an “overwhelming” on the executive board of directors for response from the public and creating a lively debate. the Bakels Group, and has now taken The snack features 96 layers of light and crisp puff pastry and is made with a be- the role of chairman of British Bakels. spoke Quorn filling. It costs from £1. RedBlack Software helps wholesale

The launch sparked a national debate bakers go paperless Cybake Outbound, a new mobile app from RedBlack Software, will enable bakers’ customers to sign for goods on drivers’ phones instead of paper delivery notes. It aims to save bakers’ use of paper, printing and data re-entry – with a mobile delivery management module for wholesale users of its Cybake 4 bakery control system.

New B2B sales manager at Cake Décor Cake Décor has announced the appointment of Paul Parkinson to the role of UK sales manager for business to business. Parkinson brings with him experience in MRS CRIMBLE’S PARTNERS WITH THE TOPLESS both the sugarcraft and cake decorat- BAKER ON SOCIAL MEDIA ing market, having previously worked at Rainbow Dust for the last seven years. Mrs Crimble’s, the gluten-free brand owned by Wessanen UK, has announced a part- Parkinson will be responsible for all UK nership with digital influencer the Topless Baker on a social media campaign that aims bulk decoration sales. to introduce more cake lovers to free-from bakery. During the year-long partnership the Topless Baker will create new and indulgent rec- Brook Food marks 25 years with ipes using Mrs Crimble’s baked treats including the brand’s best-selling Choc Macaroons. charitable donations The Topless Baker (aka Matt Adlard) is a self-taught baker who shares his home- This year, Brook Food Processing Equip- made creations to hundreds of thousands of followers on social media. ment is marking its 25th anniversary Engaging video content on how to make the new Mrs Crimble’s recipes will be by supporting worthwhile causes with shared on the Topless Baker’s Instagram Stories with a ‘swipe up’ option to take users 12 charitable donations. For every or- to Mrs Crimble’s website. Pictures of the finished cakes will then be added to his main der customers place with it of £1,000 Instagram profile reaching close to half-a-million followers. or more, Brook Food will donate £25 to The Topless Baker will also host a Baking Masterclass with Mrs Crimble’s, where a its chosen charity of that month. Brook select number of fans will bake with the Topless Baker using Mrs Crimble’s products. Food believes this could lead to around £20,000 being donated during 2019.

Spreading free-from love AB Mauri formalises Böcker Gmbh collaboration AB Mauri has formalised its collaboration with Böcker Gmbh, the German sourdough manufacturer, following eight years spent cultivating the rela- tionship. Andrew Pollars, MD of AB Mau- ri UK and Ireland hopes the agreement with help both businesses grow the category using science and tradition in the UK and beyond.

07 NEWS

KARA COMPLETES £1M MANCHESTER INVESTMENT

Kara has completed an investment of more than £1m into its Manchester production plant, which will improve efficiency and aid the bakery in increasing its capabilities. The first wave of improvements has gone towards bol- stering the efficiency of Kara’s Lanham line, where the baker’s floured baps and seeded deli rolls are made. A significant part of the funds has been invested in the Lanham proofer, which has included the replacement of the proofer enclosure, air conditioning system and hydraulic drive pack. All of these modifications will result in a more effective and integrated functioning system to improve quality and consistency as well as to reduce lost time and meet efficient production standards. Further investment will see Kara improve its main bakery ventilation systems and the replacement of one of the three spiral freezers, which will further increase capacity for the future. Kara is the foodservice arm of the Finsbury Food Group. Kara’s floured bap

SHORT SUMMER COURSES OPEN The judges in 2018 FOR BAKERY STUDENTS

Applications for The Worshipful Company of Bakers’ 2019 Summer short courses are now open. Two courses have been organised: one in Akademie Weinheim, Germany, from 15-18 July; and one at the Bakels Innovation Centre, Bicester, from 18-20 September. Applications for places are invited from bakery students who have either completed one year of full-time education on an accredited bakery course, or from apprentices or trainees in the baking industry who have completed the equivalent level of training. All applicants must be 18 years of age or older at the time of the course and, in the case of the Akademie Weinheim course, be in possession of a valid passport and any necessary visas. THE TIPTREE WORLD Full details and the application form may be accessed via bakers.co.uk. BREAD AWARDS WITH BROOK FOOD ARE

Will you sign up? OPEN FOR ENTRY The awards, which are in their seventh year, will be judged by 90 experts. The top prize is £1,000 with a host of Kitchen Aid equipment along with national pub- licity, while category winners are also invited to the historic fruit farms at Tiptree in Essex. Entries close on 4 September 2019. The 2019 judging board includes Eyal Schwarz, head baker at E5 Bake- house; Emmanuel Hadjiandreou, author and bread tutor at School of Artisan Food; and Louise Williams of Great Brit- ish Bake Off, along with Henry Jefferies, who has more than 50 years’ industry experience. (Image: Henry Kenyon)

BAKERY BUSINESS Social and digital

The digital world Highlights from the bakery industry shared on social media in the past month

BAD GIRL BAKERY @bad_girl_bakery Working from home. Development meeting with one of our wholesale clients. Snowy outside but we have log THE BLUEHAIRED BAKER fire, coffee and cake. #ilovemyjob #recipedevelopment thebluehairedbaker Excited to #breakfastparty #gourmetdonuts announce The Bluehaired Baker #badgirlsmakegoodcake will be launching at Peckham Levels on Valentine’s Day Thursday 14th February from 12pm serving hot desserts, sundaes, cake slices, brownies, milkshakes and of course still offering my cake ordering – I hope to see you all there.

JAM VS CUSTARD BAKEHOUSE @jamvscustard Home for the morning!! @QtrHorseCoffee

280 BAKES @280bakes 280 Bakes is for sale - would you like a ready- POPHAMS BAKERY pophamsbakery Our bakers will made business to pick up and run with? You be baking for Syria for the month of don’t even have to be a great baker - we February, all of the proceeds will go already have those on our network! #team280 directly to Unicef’s Children of Syria #forsale #smallbizforsale #entrepreneur Appeal. @rudebaking has developed a beautiful savoury croissant stuffed with za’atar and feta.

BREAD & BEYOND @breadbeyondUK We are looking for a #baker with a difference! Join us & help ensure our artisan #bakery provides outstanding premium #breads to #Berkshire, as well as vocational skills training for young people with #autism.

WILD BREAD BAKEHOSUE COOKHAM BAKEHOUSE @wildbreadhead cookham_bakehouse Cookham We’re recruiting! Looking for a #sourdough wild dough waiting for a pre-shape. I baker to join the Wild Bread team. For more find this stuff fascinating. The layers, bubbles, strangeness of it. Looks information, head to the @RootsTo Work like something out of a sci-fi film! website/ Thankfully the finished loaf does not.

BAKERY BUSINESS Ingredients Index

AHDB on Brexit prospects In AHDB’s latest Horizon report, it looks at potential tariffs and trade effects on the dairy sector (among others) as a result of Brexit. If tariffs were to be imposed on all dairy imports, for example, the report suggests domestic prices would likely rise. Trade across the border between the UK and Republic of Ireland would also be affected by tariffs, as large volumes of milk are processed in Ireland via export, then the final processed product then transferred back (like cheese). The report notes, however, that while the UK has a trade deficit in some key dairy products, there’s enough knowledge in the country to produce these (e.g. Cheddar, butter and yogurt). Investment in improving or expanding processing capabilities will be key to reduce the UK’s reliance on imports. The report cites Arla Foods announcing a £72m investment on improving processing facilities in the UK in January 2018 as a good example.

SESAME SEED Prices for sesame seed rose sharply towards the end of last year as untimely rains in India destroyed a large proportion of the crop. Sesame seed is a drought-tolerant plant which was developing well in India last year, but torrential rains in the latter part of the season caused heavy production losses. The main growing states of Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Gujarat have all experienced large production losses.

POPPY SEED Czech Republic is the main producer and exporter of the blue poppy seed, with around 80% of its produce exported, PUMPKIN SEED mainly within Europe. Prices for the seed have increased rap- Pumpkin seed plantings in China have been expected to fall idly compared to last year as the crop has been affected due to the lower market price for the seed but adequate by adverse weather throughout the vegetative season. This stocks at both the destination ports and the ports at the especially happened in the summer months which saw a origin have helped to maintain the market balance. Overall, lack of rain and soaring temperatures across Central Europe. prices of the pumpkin seed have been relatively stable over A sharp drop in production has been estimated for the Czech the past few months, primarily driven by currency fluctua- crop in 2018/19. tions in sterling and the Chinese yuan.

11 BAKERY BUSINESS New Openings

Bakers have been firing up the ovens around the country, but who’s doing what and where?

Italian bakery Signorelli now open in £2.4bn Stratford development

Independent artisan bakery and pasticceria Signorelli has opened its third out- let in Stratford’s new mixed-use neighbourhood, International Quarter London (IQL), a £2.4bn joint venture development between Lendlease and LCR. Already known in east London for its handmade bread, pastries and cakes, Si- gnorelli is open every day, from 7am until 8pm on weekdays and 9am until 5pm at weekends. The 1,146 sq ft bakery, located within Endeavour Square, will hold reg- ular cake decorating classes and event catering, which will benefit the local community. “We are delighted with our new restaurant and the opportunities it will deliver for us as a business and for the local community,” says Alberto Rosmini, head baker and owner of Signorelli. International artisan “Alongside our daily menu and artisan products, we are looking forward to chocolatier and patisserie launching our supper clubs, makers classes events and social activities in IQL, enters UK market adding to the vibrancy of the area we first established our business in.”

Cuppedia, an international brand specialising in artisan chocolate and patisserie, is entering the UK market for the first time by opening a retail unit at the intu Trafford Centre. As well as showcasing products from its Turkish her- itage (like Middle Eastern flavours in its handmade chocolates and Turkish delights), Cuppedia will also offer signature pastries, teas and gifts. “With its high number of shoppers and attractive retail offer, intu Trafford Centre is an ideal location for us to open our first UK retail unit,” comments Serkan Senol, chief net- working officer for Cuppedia. “This is an exciting time for our brand and we can’t wait to start trading there.”

Vegan bakery opens Hackney café

A new vegan café called We Are Vegan Everything (WAVE) has opened in Hackney – a concept developed by the team at Camden Market’s vegan bakery Cupcakes and Shht. WAVE is serving a menu of ‘freakshakes’, juice shots, kombucha, superfood lattes, blue spirulina smoothie bowls and bulletproof coffee, as well as daily baked, vegan, gluten-free and sugar-free cakes, cheesecakes, brownies, stuffed croissants and cinnamon buns. An all-day brunch menu consisting of vegan eggs (scrambled or fried), smoked maple tempeh pancakes, sausage rolls and more are also available. The bakery also produces vegan and gluten-free wedding and cel- ebration cakes. After launching last year, the founders have created wedding cakes of all shapes, designs and sizes using natural, ethical, vegan and gluten-free ingredients. “We’ve become total foodies and can’t wait for people to try the food we’re passionate about and eat every day, now that we are vegan everything, and part of this amazing vegan wave of being kind and cruelty-free,” comment founders Caitlyn and Sophie.

BAKERY BUSINESS Legal

THE PURPLE WRAPPER BATTLE The design of a product’s packaging has a huge impact on sales within the bakery sector. Here Amy Au from law firm Irwin Mitchell provides an update on the long running saga for Cadbury and the colour purple

For many, a description of a milk chocolate bar in purple Cadbury had to accept defeat and it is now left with a Amy Au, associate solicitor at packaging would conjure up an image of just one source: very limited and partially invalid trade mark registration Irwin Mitchell Cadbury. Indeed, since 1995 Cadbury has had registered in relation to the shade of purple Cadbury has fought so irwinmitchell.com trade mark protection for the colour purple, Pantone long and hard to protect. 2685C to be precise, most notably used on its Dairy Milk Regardless of the Court of Appeal outcome, this does chocolate bar. That is, until now. not open the door for other businesses to use the shade of The 1995 trade mark registration covered the colour’s purple, with which we are all familiar as the Cadbury Dairy use on the whole of the packaging, or a predominant Milk purple whenever they want, and however they want. part of the packaging of chocolate, in bar form only. In Cadbury has developed a great deal of goodwill and 2004, Cadbury looked to develop its range and sought distinctiveness in its use of that shade of purple in relation to register an additional colour mark with the same to chocolate. purple colour and description but in respect of a much The loss of its trade mark registration does not give wider specification. This was met with fierce opposition other businesses free rein to use that colour in relation to from Nestlé. chocolate and other related products in circumstances In 2013, Nestlé succeeded in the Court of Appeal. It was and in a manner, which is likely to make consumers believe held that Cadbury’s description of the purple colour mark that Cadbury is responsible for those products. Any was too broad. The registration failed, lacking precision misrepresentative use of the colour purple in that context and clarity in respect of the monopoly sought by Cadbury. would amount to passing-off in the UK, and very likely Cadbury, realising it had exposed itself to challenges of breach unfair competition laws in other jurisdictions where invalidity, then sought to remove the “predominant part Cadbury has established purple as a distinctive identifier of the packaging” wording from the 1995 mark. Cadbury of its products. tried to claim the 1995 registration was in fact a series of Therefore, while Cadbury has seemingly had a bad run two marks with the colour either on all of the packaging, with the justice system, it’s not over yet. It remains to be or on a predominant part of the packaging. seen whether Cadbury will make any further attempts to Last December this argument failed. The Court of register the colour purple with a narrower description or Appeal said the mark description constituted a range of whether anyone else will be brazen enough to attempt options relating to the use of purple on Cadbury’s choc- to use the colour. But for now, the nation of chocolate olate bar packaging. Cadbury filed one mark, and not a lovers that we are, we will more than likely assist Cadbury series of marks. If Cadbury intended to register the mark in meeting the bar for a passing off claim if its competitors as a series, it would and should have done so. Last month, push their luck too far.

13 LEAD INTERVIEW

Michelle Orme has been baking vegan products since long before plant-based diets became a national eating sensation. But where does the eating trend end and complete lifestyle begin? She talks to Rosanna Spence about her award- winning business The Vegan Cakery

I remember sitting in a up all over the country, with new bakery presenta- venues flooding Bak- tion last spring, ery Business’ inbox listening to an every week. incredibly inter- But, in the grand esting piece of con- scheme of things, this sumer psychology being new way of choosing ingre- cleverly picked apart. The dients and eating food (re- speaker was examining sulting in mass commercial the difference between la- value) is relatively new, espe- belling products. Those cus- cially in the UK, perhaps five or tomers drawn to food marked as six years. I’m sure many people ‘vegan’ were know a previously devout carnivore more likely to seek who is now proud of their occasional “Aquafaba is these products from plant-based meal choices. an ethical standpoint Yet this new-wave veganism – whether an amazing egg based around animal it’s a freshly-adopted strict lifestyle or curi- white replacer welfare, while ‘plant- ous, intermittent dietary forays – wouldn’t based’ eaters were more have been possible without the relentless in something like interested in the health work of food producers originally champion- benefits of such a diet. ing the freedom, creativity and taste experi- meringue while The two causes are vastly ences still possible for someone choosing to flaxseeds are a different, but both con- avoid all animal products. sider lowering the envi- Enter Michelle Orme, who’s been baking go-to for things like ronmental strain of food professionally since 2012, and who’s been brownies” production on our plan- scooping nationally recognised vegan awards et. And both, regardless (including Vegfest UK) for her business The of intent, have impacted Vegan Cakery ever since. Orme has been ve- the food industry – making long-lasting chang- gan herself for more than 15 years and was es to the ingredients list. vegetarian before then – but it was her flair for Now, businesses have been able to tinker creating vegan bakes that rivalled traditional and tailor recipes and menus to allow for ve- baking that carved out her path to a nationally gan options and an exciting new culture of eat- acclaimed bakery today. eries devoted to the vegan cause have popped Animal welfare has always been central to

14 to be 100% vegan as that’s who and what I am.

HAVE YOU EVER BAKED WITH ANIMAL PRODUCTS, AND HOW DO THE TWO EXPERIENCES, METHODS AND PROCESSES COMPARE? When I was younger I did, so when it came to starting The Vegan Cakery I wanted all of the recipes to be my own, so I worked on adapting ‘traditional’ recipes to create my vegan ones. There aren’t really major differences between any methods or processes, it’s all chemistry at the end of the day. The dairy aspect is very easy to change, just replace with dairy-free versions, but where eggs are concerned it depends what the egg is being required to do. For example, aquafaba is an amazing egg white replacer in Orme, and her decision to avoid all animal something like meringue while flaxseeds are a products in her bakery business is supported go-to for things like brownies. by her charity work. The Vegan Cakery selects a ‘charity of the month’, which then receives YOU’VE BEEN AN AWARD-WINNING a donated percentage of all sales in that given VEGAN BAKER SINCE BEFORE month and helps a wide variety of animal char- PLANT-BASED OPTIONS WERE ities and sanctuaries in the UK and abroad. ESSENTIAL ON MENUS – WHY This, Orme says, was always her driving force. DID YOUR BUSINESS STAND OUT Let’s hear what else she has to say about the THEN AND NOW? WHAT DO YOU success of her vegan bakery... ATTRIBUTE YOUR SUCCESS TO? With my recipes being my own it means The Ve- HOW HAS YOUR JOURNEY TO gan Cakery products have a real USP, and I think VEGANISM BEEN SHAPED? WHAT that has been a big plus over the years. I also create MOTIVATED YOU TO CREATE A products others aren’t, such as my vegan ‘cream’ VEGAN BAKERY RATHER THAN ONE cakes, and they’re extremely popular. One of the USING ANIMAL PRODUCTS? I was vegetarian for years and thought that was the best you could do, but then I saw more and more about the dairy industry and, by exten- HOW DOES sion, other types of animal exploitation and I just couldn’t be part of any of it any longer. IT WORK? Moreover, animal products just aren’t needed The Vegan Cakery (TVC) distributes – as I like to think I’m proving. products around the UK using Veganism is a complete lifestyle though, it’s Parcelforce Worldwide or Royal Mail not just a diet like ‘plant-based,’ which I think Special Delivery. Hand delivery is a lot of people confuse it with. That seems to available, where possible, in and be especially the case in the mainstream media around the Leicestershire area and now veganism is gaining a lot more attention. also for large specialist orders – for People have different reasons for becoming example, wedding cakes – and trade vegan, but mine was all about animals and an- customers. imal welfare and that’s why everything I do is Additionally, TVC operates a popular centred around being an ethical vegan. Obvi- Order and Collect service in Leicester

Orme has won many awards ously, that meant when I started thinking about city centre in partnership with stockist setting up a baking business it was always going Café Mbriki on Carts Lane.

15 LEAD INTERVIEW

A Bakewell, baked well

biggest aspects of the business from day one was non-vegan customers I have, just because they the online shop for postal orders, and that’s still love the taste and quality of my products. very popular with customers across the UK. Oth- er than very delicate items, HOW DO YOU TEND TO EDUCATE like some of the pastries, I PEOPLE WHO ARE SCEPTICAL ABOUT “Vegan products post most of my range and VEGAN BAKERY QUALITY? WHAT should never that’s something which APPROACH WORKS BEST? is still pretty unique. Of I just get them to try the product, which be a ‘second course, knowing the busi- speaks for itself! I’ve been running afternoon ness is run and owned by tea experiences around the country since the best’ option” an ethical vegan is a big end of 2017 and I get large numbers of people thing for a lot of custom- coming along who aren’t vegan, or even vege- ers too, and the support I give to animal char- tarian. They’ll come with family or friends and ities is also something which is popular with a you know some of them are sceptical, but then lot of people. they soon realise there was no need to be. It’s like any aspect of the food industry, there is HOW HAVE YOUR CONVERSATIONS good quality and bad quality. If you’ve had the ABOUT VEGAN BAKERY CHANGED misfortune to eat something which isn’t great SINCE YOU FIRST BEGAN THIS you shouldn’t think that means everything ve- VENTURE? HOW HAS THE gan is poor because the standard is improving PERCEPTION OF YOUR BUSINESS all the time. Vegan products should never be a CHANGED OVER THE YEARS? ‘second best’ option. People used to think a vegan lifestyle was something extreme, I suppose some still WHAT ARE YOUR MOST POPULAR do! But nothing could be further from the TYPES OF ORDERS, AND WHO ARE truth and I think that’s being seen more and YOUR TYPICAL CLIENTELE? HOW more now. HAVE BOTH OF THESE ELEMENTS OF You used to get a lot of questions from YOUR BUSINESS EVOLVED? non-vegans at events and more of a reluctance To be honest I don’t really have a typical to try something, but over the years more customer, there are people from all over the and more people have started to try vegan country and from all different backgrounds. products and it’s amazed me how many Most are vegan, but there are large numbers

16 The Vegan Cakery runs afternoon teas

@VEGANCAKERY Since the very beginning in 2012 #TheVeganCakery has been sending out the widest possible range of freshly made products, including these carrot cupcakes, across the UK using a premium courier service #AlwaysVegan #HighestStandards #NoCompromise

who aren’t, and they just love my products. My afternoon teas have been extremely popular since starting them. I hire venues around the country and the teas are then served over three courses in a high-end style. For actual products, the ‘cream’ cakes are the most popular at fairs and festivals – things like my mille-feuille, jam and ‘cream’ doughnuts, ap- ple turnovers etc. It’s all the things people miss, like Bakewell tarts, Battenberg and that kind of thing.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE A BAKER JUST STARTING ON THEIR JOURNEY TO EXPERIMENT WITH VEGAN BAKERY? Sweet vegan treats Don’t be disillusioned if something doesn’t work straightaway. If you really have a passion for it, that will drive you on to improve. I always wanted to create my own recipes, and be unique, and I think that’s the best approach… thevegancakery Oooh, can’t and it’s a fantastic way of experimenting to go wrong with freshly made find what works for you. There are some #TheVeganCakery ‘Big Boost’ things I see in recipes online or in books you #doughnuts on a Saturday morning really don’t need to use, so experimenting is – you know 100% from a 100% definitely the best way for me. #vegan business 

WHY DO YOU THINK VEGANISM HAS BECOME SO POPULAR? DO YOU THINK PEOPLE WILL REMAIN now. There aren’t any excuses anymore and COMMITTED TO THIS LIFESTYLE? it’s increasingly hard for people to keep blink- One of the biggest driving forces in recent ers on where animal welfare issues are con- years has been social media. It’s shone a cerned. As more and more ‘celebrities’ pursue huge light on the dark practices of the animal a vegan lifestyle as well, that can only help to farming industry which had remained hidden broaden the exposure. If you’re vegan for an- away. Everyone is indoctrinated from child- imal welfare reasons, and not using it as a fad hood to think we ‘need’ animal products, but or just a diet, then I believe the population of that’s simply not the case – the proof is out vegans is only going to grow and grow. The there. More and more people are seeing this world is changing…

17 DOUGHNUTS

HOLDHOLD INFINITY INFINITY ININ THE THE PALM PALM OF OF YOYOURUR HAND HAND Doughnuts have the ability to evoke powerful emotions, and when the possibilities for filling and topping combinations are endless, how outrageous can bakers really get?

If there’s one product that embodies the engender feelings of comfort, guilty pleas- WORDS trends, techniques and visual appeal of mod- ure, satisfaction and the ability to trans- ROSANNA SPENCE ern bakery, consider it the doughnut. From port the eater to another time and place in American cops tucking into their sweet memory as soon as the doughnut touches treats in the movies to children pleading to their lips. indulge in the warm smell of freshly fried By the beginning of 2019, doughnuts had doughnuts at the fair – these products evoke experienced countless incarnations, including an emotive reaction in consumers. They Herdwick haggis doughnuts at a recent Burns

18 DOUGHNUTS

“We have a fruit farm nearby where we will pick our own strawberries for our cream tea doughnut”

Raise money for The Children’s Trust and get involved in National Doughnut Week from 11-18 May 2019

DOUGHNUTS

Night dinner at Roast restaurant in London (served with The Balvenie and orange marmalade and malted ice cream – which all sounds rather divine). Moving across to Wembley, Longboys specialises in finger doughnuts, made with a lighter brioche base and bounteous fresh toppings. Al- “The metallic or though most bakery businesses will create and sell their own doughnuts, the sheer potential for these little hand-held wonders should never be underestimated. Last year Crosstown Doughnuts was named the fast- galaxy-style glaze est-growing brand in the UK in a Ones to Watch report, measured by percentage growth in the market. From 2015 to 2018, the doughnut specialist is one of the biggest grew its estate by 1,000%. That’s a lot of dough love right there. innovations” EAT MORE HOLE FOODS We say it time and time again in Bakery Business, but consumers are acutely aware of the ingredients they want to consume. This behaviour doesn’t just apply to their main meals and has meant that every bite from every business now needs to be assured on content. “While a doughnut has always been an affordable indulgence (think five in a bag for a £1), in recent years, they have become more premiu- mised, with higher-quality and more inventive offerings,” explains Jacqui Passmore, marketing manager for the UK and Ireland at Dawn Foods. “Today’s consumers are demanding more indulgence, more tex- tual combinations and more product satisfaction. Younger consumers are especially attracted to impulse purchase by innovative products that surprise with new flavour combinations and a sense of fun.” Doughnuts are ideally placed to easily carry general sweet trends, provided the quality of ingredients is good enough, such as the big trend of 2018 that looks set to saunter across this year too: traditional British desserts. Adam Cross, founder of Jam vs Custard bakery in Birmingham, is a fine example of someone determined to bake some of the best ‘real’ doughnuts this country has to offer. “I use the term ‘real’ because there is nothing artificial about our doughnuts,” he explains. “I take care to source the best ingredients, and our process ensures that every element is carefully thought out and handmade.” Cross was a pastry chef before starting Jam vs Custard, and he reck- ons doughnuts’ versatility allows him to draw on that experience to create products that match exactly what consumers are seeking. “You will see flavours that take inspiration from traditional desserts and the seasons, such as the Bakewell and the treacle tart doughnut,” he adds. “And recently we created our Christmas offering, the mince pie doughnut, which was filled with homemade, rum-infused mince- meat, clotted cream and finished with a pastry crumb. The summer always brings some exceptional flavours – we have a fruit farm nearby where we will pick our own strawberries for our cream tea doughnut.” Cross is always keen to showcase the amazing growers and Age is but a number: CSM Bakery Solutions’ ideas for kids producers the UK has to offer, as their products sit well in his creations.

21 DOUGHNUTS

“We take time to source the best we can, from our flour right through to the fruit for our jams. It’s an important part THE HOLE STORY of our business that we support them and it’s a great way for us to advertise those products by creating something mem- Successful doughnuts don’t happen by magic – they need a close eye orable for people.” and careful consideration to achieve that perfect balance of firm skin Cross believes the reason people remain continually sur- wrapping around a pillowy inside. If you could do with a few pointers, Robin Loud, head application chef at Dawn Foods, has some hints: prised and excited about doughnuts is because there are so many different styles and methods being used to create them. • When making doughnuts it is important that the environmental Although he finds the simplest ideas are usually best, ensur- humidity is not too low as this will cause the dough piece to skin ing perfect execution, that hasn’t hampered his imagination. and prevent it from expanding. If the humidity is too high, the “I’d love to create a savoury doughnut,” he admits. “I have outside of the dough piece will become waterlogged, allowing experimented with a barbecue pork-filled doughnut rolled in it to flow through the fryer wires, causing high fat absorption, paprika sugar. Sometimes the only challenge is where to stop, sticking and mis-shapes. as the filling becomes more elaborate and the techniques • Doughnuts should take between 30 and 60 minutes to prove. used more challenging.” If they are much slower than this, then the prover could be too Over at third-generation family baker Coughlans (which cold, the yeast old or the dough could have excess salt or sugar. uses Bakels’ Yeast Doughnut Concentrate) the team has seen • Test for full proof by gently pressing on a dough piece. The area pressed should spring back slowly. If it springs back quickly then steady demand for classic bakes. more proving time is required. If the depression is retained, then “We have learnt that our customers want the simple things it may be over-proved. but done consistently well,” says managing director Sean • The proved pieces should then be removed from the prover and Coughlan. “That’s why the old favourite, the jam doughnut, allowed to stand in a draught-free area to allow the surface has been such an important line for us. Our jam doughnut to dry. This will take five-to-10 minutes. Once a thin skin has takes its place as our bestselling bun line and second best- formed, the dough pieces are ready for frying. seller across the business. While we often introduce seasonal lines to the bakery, the traditional jam doughnut continues to perform very well, thanks to the quality ingredients used to make them.” Coughlans’ ingredients and methods also ensure excellent volume and little fat absorption into the dough, meaning the doughnuts maintain a fresh-looking appearance throughout the day, with a light-eating mouth feel, a characteristic often commented on by their customers.

DOUGHNUT GIVE UP! The range of doughnuts that consumers want to see means that bakers with all customer bases can put on a sweet (or savoury) show that will please even the fussiest of eaters and all spending budgets. “Using coloured dough, premium toppings such as gold leaf, freeze-dried and fresh fruit, coconut, edible flowers, or glaze alternatives such as meringue and crumble are a great way to make doughnuts stand out,” suggests Isabel Coughlans uses Bakels’ Yeast Doughnut Concentrate Sousa, category marketing director for doughnuts, muffins

22 DOUGHNUTS

and cakes at CSM Bakery Solutions. “Swap traditional jam fillings for a hazelnut cream, ganache, mango or passionfruit curd to to bring a premium quality to both the look and taste HONEY, I SHRUNK THE of the doughnut. In terms of decoration, the metallic or gal- DOUGHNUTS axy-style glaze is one of the biggest innovations in baking and is expected to see a spike in popularity.” Thankfully, miniature versions of your beloved sweet bakery items aren’t “Indulgence is another key trend for this year and there’s something to lose sleep over (unlike the poor kids in the Disney film). plenty of scope to be creative when creating indulgent, ‘dirty’ “One way to appeal to those who want indulgence but who have an doughnuts. Pile dirty doughnuts with sweets, chocolate or eye on healthier options is to offer mini-versions of favourite flavours of even cereals, to give customers added value for money and doughnuts,” explains Gordon Lauder, MD of Central Foods. “Consumers a delicious twist.” love to treat themselves, and we know that doughnuts are firm favourites with the British public, but many are looking for ways to cut Whether you focus on showcasing the excellence of down on sweet treats, so providing smaller versions of popular classics is traditional doughnuts or are baking creations that wouldn’t the ideal solution.” look out of place in a wildly imaginative Pixar animated film, Here are some simple ideas on how to serve doughnuts in different customers demand consistency of quality and ingredients ways from Isabel Sousa, category marketing director for doughnuts, that shine, be that glistening fresh fruit or metallic glaze with muffins and cakes, at CSM Bakery Solutions: oozing caramel centres. “Create tiny doughnut balls using your doughnut mix, then sprinkle with sugar or cinnamon and pair with salted caramel, honey or a chocolate ganache, or fill with a traditional jam or custard filling,” she says. “Another innovation we’ve seen is using doughnuts in different ways such as a sandwich or burger. Putting a savoury twist on a doughnut is a great way to pique interest, so if bakers want talkability around their doughnut range, consider filling with ingredients such as cheese, bacon or avocado.”

Fresh fillings at Jam vs Custard

Adam Cross

23 FREE-FROM AND VEGAN BAKERY

How can you tell if someone’s a vegan? ...Don’t worry, they’ll tell you. But jokes aside, veganism and free-from are big deals that only look set to get bigger. So mock if you will, but you’d be foolish to ignore them

If you don’t have a vegan offering, or a free-from one trend will drive diners to opt for free-from options for that matter, then you, my friend, are a fool. I say without even thinking about it. this as a seasoned carnivore with no allergies or in- Oh, and on that note, I also bore witness to free- tolerances, and yet I stand by my words. Get on from Fridays, but I’m not sure that was such a national board the good ship ‘Free-From’, calling all ports to success. It was in an office where I was working part- vegan-friendly, because there are sales galore to be time… it has a nice ring to it but I’m not sure it’s catch- made along the way. If further proof were needed, Mc- ing on any time soon (now that I’ve said that it will, of Donalds now has vegan options, and Greggs is well on course, be a worldwide sensation, stand by). WORDS ALICE board with its vegan sausage roll. The joy of this vegan movement that still seems COOKE The thing with this vegan trend is that while some to be doing a lot of moving and shaking, is that it are true blue, others are just giving it a go – encouraged gives even ardent meat-eaters more options. Yet you by initiatives such as Veganuary. But whether your wouldn’t have seen any such appreciation for the consumers are in it for the long haul or just dipping broader choices on offer when the ol’ vegan sau- a celery stick in the water, veganism is an undeniable sage rolls hit the shelves. Twitter was hilarious for at craze – seemingly everyone’s doing it. Six hundred least a week – covered in resentment from Greggs thousand Brits are now vegan, according to The Ve- regulars, some of it more serious than others, all of it gan Society, and that number is growing fast, with 43% very amusing. making the change in 2018. Forget the Valkyries. The But like it or lump it, plant-based food is here to vegans are coming. stay, veganism is in the ascendancy, and other peo- Jane Olney, commercial director at Kara, says: ple’s life choices really shouldn’t be causing such “Bakers are in a prime position to really capitalise on vehement rage. Disclaimer: unless it’s shoved down this trend by looking at ways to turn traditional bakery your throat... but let us not tarnish all vegans with the items into vegan-friendly treats without compromis- same mucky brush. ing on flavour or appearance. Developing technology is going to help bakers create sweet and savoury bakery items that could appear on menus and maybe even replace some of their original counterparts.” “40% worry that following As technology advances, and research in this area continues, Kara predicts we will see more products a free-from diet puts them actively mimicking the look, taste and feel of traditional bakery items, without containing any animal at risk of missing out on products. As consumers begin to explore these and understand that opting for a free-from option will not compromise on flavour or experience, she says this certain nutrients”

24 FREE-FROM AND VEGAN BAKERY

TOP ALLERGEN FACTS FROM MINTEL:

• Only 37% of Brits agree it’s easy to identify which allergens a product is free-from by its label • 39% of allergy/intolerance sufferers who have bought or used free-from products would like to see a UK-wide allergen labelling system on free- from products • 48% of Brits say that they, or someone in their household, avoid at least one food/ingredient - although only 20% do so due to an allergy or intolerance • The UK free-from market was valued at £837m in 2018, growing by 133% since 2013. • While prepackaged goods are legally required to highlight on-pack the presence of any allergens, almost half (48%) of Brits are unsure whether or not allergen labels are clear, and a further 15% actively disagree that this is the case • A UK-wide allergen labelling system on free-from product packaging appeals to 29% of those who have bought/used free-from products, a figure which rises to 39% of those users who avoid foods/ ingredients because of an allergy or intolerance • Estimated to be worth £837m in 2018, the UK free-from market has seen stellar growth over 2013-18.

25 FREE-FROM AND VEGAN BAKERY

“Get on board the good ship ‘Free-From’, calling all ports to vegan- friendly”

YOUR FLEXIBLE FRIEND No, not a credit card or a mate who can do a bit of gymnastics as a party trick (although that would be pretty cool), we’re talking flexitarians here. And as Lydia Baines, digital and communications manager at Puratos UK rightly says, your products need to take them into consideration too: “It is more important than ever that vegan bakery products are marketed to and appeal to all consumers, rather than just those following strict vegan diets,” she notes. “An Powered by plants ever-increasing number of people are adopting flexitarian diets. For bakers to tap into this trend and make the most of this growing market, it is important for vegan bakery products to appeal to the ‘vegan-curious’, as well as those following firmer vegan diets. To be able do this, it is crucial that the quality and taste of vegan products stands up to the original. Creating vegan versions of products can be challenging because they typically rely on egg for texture, volume, flavour and more, but devising vegan versions which the rival the original can be done. Our Satin Vegan Cake, for example, contains a combination of ingredients that replace the functionality of the egg.”

WHEN OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS… Michael Schofield, marketing manager at Bakels, says veganism is much more than just a diet, and bakers need to act now to take advantage of the opportunities it offers. “In contrast to other free-from categories, veganism is emerging as a lifestyle, not just a diet,” he notes. “As well as adopting a vegan approach to what they eat, vegans are looking for alternatives in all aspects of their lives; so much so that the share of vegan launches within the total number of food and drink and beauty and personal care launches has doubled to 6% of NPD in the last year. “Vegan is the third fastest growing on-pack claim for food and drink SURE AS EGGS IS EGGS launches globally in the last five years (behind weight and muscle gain and dairy-free). Moreover, the bakery category accounts for the third highest share Some margarines contain Vitamin D3, which isn’t suitable of these launches globally. for vegans, and some E-numbers, such as E422 and “In a category suffering from a reputation for being unhealthy, cake goods E72a-f, come from animal sources. But as well as all that, in particular can benefit from an injection of vegan options, thanks to its per- if you’re going to sell a vegan bake, you need to say ceived healthier image, coupled with positive ethical credentials. goodbye to the eggs. Which is easier than it sounds. Bakels has backed up this trend with the introduction of Multimix Vegan So, for meringues you can use aquafaba instead of egg Cake Complete, requiring only the addition of readily-available bakery ingre- whites, which is the water you cook chickpeas in (sounds dients; water and oil, thus allowing bakers to seamlessly introduce vegan cake ghastly to me) or a mixture of water and chia or flax goods to their bakeries.” seeds, which sounds marginally more appealing. They used aquafaba on The Great British Bake Off LABELLING: THE VERY SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES OF last year, and if the contestants’ experiences are to be GETTING IT WRONG believed, it wasn’t that easy at all… but it is possible. Emma Clifford, associate director of food and drink at Minte, warnsl: “Po- Alternatively, Ulrick & Short has a product called tential changes to allergen labelling has received a lot of high-profile media Ovaprox V, which is an egg replacement for cakes; Puratos coverage recently, with speculation that the government is planning to in- has a vegan Satin cake mix (in chocolate and plain troduce new changes following the death of Natasha Ednan-Laperouse, who flavours), and they’re launching a vegan scone mix soon; died after suffering an allergic reaction to a Pret baguette. Bakels has Multimix Vegan Cake Complete which only “Given the perceived lack of clarity and the dangerous health implications needs water and oil adding to it; and Macphie launched a that ambiguous allergen labelling can have on consumers, there is a real need range of vegan-certified mixes last November. for companies to make the presence of allergens very obvious on labelling.

FREE-FROM AND VEGAN BAKERY

Vegan indulgence is a major trend

VEGAN AND FREE-FROM NPD ROUND-UP

• Burton’s Biscuit Company launched Maryland Sugar Free Cookies in January. Two sugar-free cookies contain 7.2g less sugar than two original Maryland Choc Chip Cookies. They are £1.39 for a 230g pack. • Free-from brand Livia’s, formerly known as Livia’s Kitchen, has unveiled a range of vegan dipping cookies called Dunx. Available in Caramel Almond Swirl, Peanut Butter & Jelly, and Choco Hazel Crunch, Dunx are available in 600 Tesco Express “While current regulations require allergens to be listed in bold on the in- stores nationwide now. Each pack costs £1.79 and gredients list, many companies choose to highlight certain free-from creden- contains three oat cookies and a pot of dipping tials on the front of packaging as well. At the moment, this is not regulated and sauce. Like other items in the brand’s portfolio, Dunx there is no uniformity between the labelling used, which can fuel confusion are vegan-friendly and gluten-, egg- and dairy-free. among consumers, particularly given the huge amount of other product infor- • Sainsbury’s now sells vegan croissants and pains mation on packaging. There is strong demand for a UK-wide labelling system au chocolat. The range, from La Boulangère, is for allergens, which would unify the way in which companies communicate available now in 300 stores nationwide, and both this information on packaging.” options cost £2.50 for a pack of six. Gluten-free products remain the nation’s most popular type of free-from food, with 27% of consumers having purchased or eaten these over the last And beyond the big boys, there’s been a vegan sausage six months. roll frenzy. I can’t think why… A quarter (26%) of consumers say free-from diets are good for digestive NEW OFFERINGS INCLUDE: health, but 44% say that it is hard to know whether they have health benefits • Coughlan’s in Surrey for those without an allergy or intolerance. A further 40% worry that following • Joe’s Bakery in Bristol a free-from diet puts them at risk of missing out on certain nutrients, which is • Flour & Spoon in Leigh-on-Sea significant news for bakers wanting to make the most of the free-from market. • Poundbakery in Liverpool (who claim theirs came “The idea that following a free-from diet could potentially put people at before Greggs’) risk of missing out on nutrients is a concern for a significant number of con- • Chalmer’s Bakery in Aberdeen sumers,” says Clifford. “Gluten-free products carrying nutrient fortification • Our Cornish Pasty Shop in Brighton claims are not widespread in the UK market, suggesting a missed opportunity. • Café Carmel in Bacton While highlighting the absence of allergens is vital, spotlighting nutritional • Warrens Bakery launched a vegan pasty range back credentials is also important for free-from products, particularly to appeal to in 2017… so definitely way before Greggs! those opting for these products as part of a healthy lifestyle.”

28 COMMERCIALFREE-FROM PRESENTATION: AND VEGAN BAKERYRECIPE Vegan recipe Puratos shares a sweet vegan treat to inspire bakers

VEGAN WILD BLUEBERRY SCONE SWIRLS

INGREDIENTS Dough Weight • Puratos Scone 1.000 kg • Water 0.360 kg

Topping / filling Weight • Vivafil Wild Blueberry 0.300 kg • Harmony Sublimo As required • Chopped pistachios As required

METHOD 1. Using a planetary mixer and beater mix the Puratos Scone and water. 2. Mix on slow for 30 seconds. Scrape down, mix for 30 seconds on medium. 3. Pin out the dough to 6mm in a rough rectangle. 4. Cover the dough with Vivafil Wild Blueberry, roll up and refrigerate for 30 minutes. 5. Cut the dough into 1cm discs, place on a line baking tray. 6. Bake at 220˚C for 10-12 minutes. 7. Glaze with Harmony Sublimo from the oven and sprinkle with chopped pistachios.

29 NEW BAKERY

Henry Jeffries (left) Briony Williams and Steve Fudge BAKING THROUGH Bread & Beyond is transforming the lives of young people with severe autism at its brand BARRIERS new bakery in Prior’s Court The pages of Bakery Business are no stranger to a fully-functioning commercial bakery with a differ- stories about social enterprises, which are working ence – its specialist training programme supports tirelessly around the country to harness the power of young people with severe autism. baking and support people who may otherwise not Prior’s Court received support from master baker have access to skills, opportunities and even food. and confectioner Steve Fudge who shared his exper- Young people deserve every chance to learn about tise to ensure the business was set up to be commer- the life changing potential of baking, none more so cially viable and in line with industry standards. than those in the care of Prior’s Court in Berkshire, a Briony Williams, a semi-finalist on 2018’s Great leading autism charity. British Bake Off, was invited along to cut the ribbon Last month saw the charity open its own dedicated for the new venture. Williams has been praised for bakery. Although its first loaf was baked in the new not letting her own disability interfere with her facilities back in August 2018, Bread & Beyond is now passion for baking.

of young people with severe autism in the UK are expected to enter the world of work

30 NEW BAKERY

Reuben, one of the bakery’s most skilled trainees

Williams buying bread from Jamie in the shop

“What an incredible thing to be doing, to provide such great opportunities for these young people who wouldn’t ordinarily have that,” she said at the launch. “It’s an honour to be here.” Bread & Beyond’s bakery manager Dylan Needham has been hand-crafting artisan goods that are free from additives and preservatives, but not without the of 19-25-year-olds at Prior’s Court are help of some extraordinary people. 83successfully engaged in a work placement “Only 32% of autistic adults in the UK are in any kind of paid employment and for people with severe autism, the current expectation is that they will never getting the young people involved, and that sense of enter the world of work,” explains Prior’s Court CEO achievement for them,” says Needham, who has ex- Mike Robinson. “This significantly reduces their inde- perience working with Hovis and Warburtons. “That’s pendence, increasing the risk of social exclusion and what is unique about what we’re offering and it’s im- mental and physical ill-health. We want to change the portant that comes through. It’s all about getting the outlook for young people with autism, building on our young person into the workplace, smiling and enjoy- existing work placement programme, and give real ing the process, and of course making fantastic bread. opportunities for paid work in a commercial environ- “Bakery is such a good skill to have because it’s me- ment, both here and out in the community. thodical, and the young people with autism need to have “We currently have around seven training sessions structure, a rigid process to be able to understand things. taking place each week, and 12 young people already With bakery, and especially with dough, it breaks down involved. Our ambition is to have 10 bakeries across into little things – you’ve got the recipe, ingredients, the country so we can make an even bigger impact on moulding and proving. If all of them are right, you get the the lives of more young people affected by autism.” bread at the end. I learn so much more from the young While the bakery shop is not open to the general people than I ever thought I would do. Every day is a public, Bread & Beyond’s products are beginning to learning day for them, but it’s also a learning day for me.” hit the shelves of shops such as Budgens in Newbury, Those benefitting from Bread & Beyond’s training and local farm shops. They also supply all the bread courses are not just improving their own skills, they are and baked shattering preconceptions about how people goods on the with autism work, learn and understand. Prior’s Court “It doesn’t get better than this,” site, catering adds Needham. “It’s definitely put a for around 90 skip in my step.” young people and staff members. of young people at Prior’s “For me the most Court will access taster exciting bit is sessions at Bread & Beyond

31 RETARDER PROVERS PROVE IT! Forget piggy banks, forget shopping in the sales, forget make-do-and-mend WORDS ALICE COOKE – if it’s savings you’re after you need a retarder prover. Money, time, staff – you name it, it can save it, as Alice Cooke finds out

Retarder provers can help bakers save man-hours by However, they don’t always necessarily operate having dough ready for the oven at a set time. They purely to improve the quality of products but can also work by holding the dough at a set temperature prevent doughs from deteriorating if implemented (usually -5°C) before gradually increasing both that well within production. Or as Malcolm Harling, sales temperature and the humidity, so that the dough’s and marketing director at Williams Refrigeration suc- ready to be baked to perfection exactly when you cinctly puts it: “They deliver more flexibility in terms want it to be. of production runs and allow the baker to plan for Nathan Giles, Campden BRI senior bakery technolo- and avoid bottlenecks.” gist, says optimal use of a retarder prover can im- As with any baking process though, care needs prove the quality of a product: “A retarder prover can to be taken with set-up to achieve the best results. slow down fermentation, giving the user control over When asked why retarder provers are an important how fast this takes place. Low-temperature proving part of the bakery process, Mark Hutchings, man- affects the performance of emulsifiers and enzymes, aging director of Cater-Bake, says simply: “They will so can be used to create different crumb structures.” have the product ready for the oven when you need “Low-temperature proving affects the performance of emulsifiers and enzymes”

32 RETARDER PROVERS

it, with a strict timing system meaning bakes will not the dough’s air cells and develop the protein struc- be over, or under, proved and the controlled humidity ture, so the proofer must be large enough to contain ensuring a quality finish. this expanded product. “Because of the timed schedule set up in advance, Dough pieces are extremely delicate during this the product can be held at a cold temperature over- process, and any jarring during final proofing can night until the programme is switched to proving literally knock the whole thing back, so the mechani- mode. As this is usually very early in the morning, the cal operation of the proofer and the proofer-to-oven ability to set this automatically saves bakers having to transition process needs to be as smooth as possible. get up earlier than they normally would to switch the prover on.” SPACE: THE FINAL FRONTIER Because retarder provers are so versatile, they can No wonder then that their use is on the rise – Nor- also be used as spare freezers to chill down or hold bake says it has seen demand for retarder provers products, as an extra fridge, or as a warming cup- rise a whopping 70% in the last 12 years. board during the day once the morning bake-off cycle THE SCIENCE BIT is finished. Bakers use proofers (or a period of rest time) to help They can also be used to set mousses, freeze yeast-raised doughs recover from the rigours and cheesecakes, accelerate fermentation of Christmas strains of dividing and rounding. fruits, warm fondant glazes, melt ganache and even The proofing process allows the leavening to bring temper chocolate. bread and rolls to their optimum volume before bak- Add to this the help they can offer in planning ing. The joy of a retarder prover is that your dough production, preventing supply shortfalls and even is encapsulated inside – so it won’t be exposed to making sure ovens are used to their full capacity – all draughts that might dry out the surface. They also in one handy machine. Quite impressive really, I think make sure there’s plenty of moisture in the envi- you’ll agree. ronment, for the same reason. If the dough piece is allowed to dry out, it will lose weight and its surface will split. So, the environment in which proofing takes place needs to have as high a humidity as possible. It’s the sort of thing you really wouldn’t want on holiday – someone removing any sort of breeze and constantly keeping you slightly damp. Although this analogy doesn’t really ring true, as I can’t think of the last time I lay on a sun lounger in 49°C, or -5°C for that matter! Okay sorry, back to the technical bit… the retarder prover is there to enable the yeast to contribute leavening gases to the air cells that already exist within the dough’s protein structure, which enlarge the size of the moulded dough piece by a factor of about 3 or 4. Such yeast activity is best promoted by a temperature of 35 to 40°C (95 to 104°F), so the environment Three ways retarder provers can make your day a little brighter, from Ann Wells, marketing director, Brook Food: in which final proofing takes place must be at a temperature of 35 to 49°C (95 to 120°F), with the actual • Labour costs are reduced because you don’t have to pay as temperature depending on product variety. many premium night-time salaries – your retarder prover can do the work for you Dough pieces go into the proofing stage at a tem- • Busy periods don’t have to mean longer hours – you just need perature of 28 to 30°C (82 to 86°F). It would actually to get your retarder prover to have more dough prepped and be helpful if the dough pieces could be at a higher ready for when you arrive temperature, but if they were any warmer, they • Less morning production time – the dough is primed to go, so that when staff arrive, they can get baking straight away. would be too sticky for the moulder to cope with. The yeast requires about 50-65 minutes to inflate

BAKERY BUSINESS Comment

Prepacked preparation The government’s consultation on allergy labelling is looming, but what does this mean for bakers?

Chris Hassall We’ve all been well aware of the latest food With these simple measures you will be Compliance and risk management incidents that recently brought attention to the need for able to minimise disruption and costs when services director at improving food labelling laws in the UK, especially for adjusting to any change in food allergen Checkit food Prepacked for Direct Sales (PPDS). regulations. If your business needs confidence Hassall uses a Under the current law, PPDS foods do not re- that it is operating in line with all legal require- new approach quire any information on the packaging, unlike pre- ments and preparing for future changes in reg- to food safety packed foods whose labelling must include a list of all ulation, please do not hesitate to contact me and health and safety compliance ingredients, including allergens. It is very important that at Checkit and I can give you some more advice: management, consumers are provided with accurate information when it [email protected]. combining digital comes to allergenic ingredients so they can make the right tools to continually monitor processes choices and keep safe. and people and This is also why the government has recently Option 1: Promote best practice offer all round launched a consultation seeking views on non-regula- This is considered to be a non-regulatory option as support to any size of business. tory and regulatory policy options to improve the provi- it would not require any changes in the current law. sion of allergen information to consumers and change It would only promote best practice through a series checkit.net the allergy requirements for PPDS foods (see page 6 of of activities: Bakers’ Review in this magazine for more information). • Increase the awareness of allergen knowledge At the moment, at a bakery, deli, sandwich shop or café, through industry events; any food that is prepacked on the premises in anticipation • Public campaigns highlighting the food aller- of an order is considered PPDS food, and it does not need gen awareness in food businesses and con- to contain allergen information. With this consultation tak- sumers; ing place there could be sweeping changes. There are four • Produce a best practice guide in partnership options currently being considered, outlined on this page. with the FSA and FSS. We do advise that, independently of which option takes place, bakers should start putting some simple Option 2: Mandate ‘ask the staff’ labels measures in place in order to protect their customers, This option would mandate that a label is included brand and reputation: on all PPDS foods packages advising consumers to ‘ask the staff’ about allergens. This is considered to be • Make sure your suppliers inform you correctly about a regulatory option, as it would change the law and which allergens are present in the items you use; shops would need to adjust their labelling accordingly. • Make sure your staff is aware of these regulations and able to inform your customers about any allergens Option 3: Mandate the name of the food and present in PPDS foods; allergens to be labelled on the food packaging • Make sure your customers are aware of the allergens With this option the businesses would have to tell contained in the food they are purchasing before they the consumer the name of the food and which of are consumed; the 14 allergens the product intentionally contains. • Avoid any cross contamination, keeping surfaces clean, as any trace of allergens, especially nuts, can Option 4: Mandate the name of the food, aller- cause severe allergic reactions for some people; gens and full list of ingredients to be labelled on • Have a record of all the cleaning and food safety the food packaging checks in place; This is the most complete option and would require • Always be prepared for an Environmental Health labelling to include the name of the food, the list of Officer inspection or audit; ingredients and any of the 14 allergens highlighted • Work with a food safety consultant to help you plan, within the ingredient list. monitor and be on hand to help with any issues.

YEAST

Rise and shine

Ah, yeast – it’s an ingredient as old as the hills that needs to be handled with the greatest of care. Alice Cooke takes a look at who’s doing what in the world of all things on the rise

Let’s take a break from baking and sit for a mo- Dr. Dana Laor of Tel Aviv University’s George WORDS ALICE ment consumed by the pure wonder of yeast. S. Wise Faculty of Life Sciences says: “Three COOKE Yes, we all know it works magic in your profes- Nobel Prizes have been awarded to scientists sional bakeries, but what else are these little mir- engaging in research related to yeast in the last acles capable of. It might surprise you. decade, and it’s no wonder. Yeast grows quick- First up, let’s look at yeast’s healing properly; it’s affordable; and it’s easily manipulated as ties. There are hundreds of genetic metabolic a simple unicellular organism. Now, we too have disorders that cause a critical enzyme deficien- harnessed its properties to gain insight into this cy, which usually proves fatal. These disorders devastating group of diseases.” mostly happen in infants and there are no cures The research, which was recently published in or treatments. But a new study by Israeli and Jap- February 2019, revealed that when a gene respon- anese researchers suggests that yeast may hold sible for producing a certain enzyme is impaired, the key to finding more successful therapies. toxic metabolites accumulate in the body and

37 YEAST

“Avoid contact between Yeast needs careful management fresh yeast and other small ingredients in the recipe” cause serious damage. Laor genetically manipulat- NOT IN THE YEAST BIT WORRIED ed yeast cells to produce a toxic accumulation of Michelin-starred Danish chef-turned-bak- the metabolite adenine and made the first ‘in vivo’ er Christoffer Hruskova opened The Bread yeast model of a congenital metabolic disease. Station in London’s Hackney in 2017. But his This will allow scientists to screen thousands is a bake with a difference… no yeast: “It’s of drug-like small molecules to identify mole- going back to basics with flour, water, and cules that could lead to novel therapies, which salt. We don’t add any yeast whatsoever,” might then be able to be developed by pharma- says Hruskova. ceutical companies. They do have yeast in their pastries and Let’s leave the laboratories now and surround cakes, it’s just the bread that’s shunning the ourselves in an environ much closer to home. yeast game. And here’s the method he uses: “We start with a biga, which is a rye and wa- HOW TO CARE FOR AND STORE YEAST ter pre-fermentation that we have going in Have a pen and paper ready because Sara Autton, a tank with arms and a propeller to keep it technical manager at Le Saffre UK and Ireland, has stirring. It’s a bit like a sourdough starter, the dos and don’ts that every baker should abide by: but we refresh it all the time, so you don’t keep it and take a bit at a time like you do • Yeast is a living organism, so treat it with with sourdough.” respect! He adds that the biga is then added to • To maintain optimal performance fresh the mix at every stage of the bread-making yeast must be stored in refrigerated condi- process, to encourage a rise. This all sounds tions, preferably separate from any strong fairly straightforward, but Hruzkova says it odours. Fresh deliveries of yeast to the was anything but simple in the development bakery should be moved to the fridge as phases. “For months we struggled to get the soon as possible. When storing, ensure that biga right, but then when it kicked in, it was there is room for air flow between yeast car- amazing and it’s consistent.” tons to help prevent condensation on the The bread doesn’t get much kneading, so outer surface. after the mixture has proved for four hours at • Maintain stocks on a first in/first out prin- 35°C, they just fold it and put it in bread bas- ciple, and always use yeast before the best kets, where it sits covered at room tempera- before date on the packaging. ture. He also takes the cover off when it then • When weighing, avoid contact between fresh goes in the fridge: “We want a slight crust on yeast and other small ingredients in the rec- it because the dough is 50% water. That way, ipe, particularly salt or sugar as these can when it bakes, it’ll hold its shape.” damage yeast cells on the surface of the block. But was it back in Denmark that he got the Unused portions of a yeast block should be inspiration for his yeast-free bake? Actually, re-wrapped in the original paper and returned far from it: “Unfortunately, a lot of bakers in to the fridge as soon as possible. Denmark have become all about powders and • Store dry yeast according to the conditions additives that make the product last longer,” specified on the packaging. Open packs of says Hruskova. “They even use margarine in- dry yeast should be sealed in an airtight stead of butter. It’s a bit sad.” container, refrigerated, and used up as soon But, he adds that because yeast can reduce as possible. the life of the bread, his loaves joyously last • Frozen semi-dry yeast should be stored at four or five days without the need for any ad- -18°C in a sealed container. ditives at all.

38 YEAST

A closer look at baking yeast

A MOMENT WITH ANDY POLLARD, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF AB MAURI

What’s new in yeast development? “Currently, there’s significant focus on flavour benefits. We see a number of craft bakers out there who are experimenting with different yeasts, such as as fresh or dried yeast and either as a blend, or as a pure culture of different yeasts in order to create unique flavours Dried yeast blocks are a popular option and differentiate themselves in the market (e.g. some standard baker’s yeast and some distiller’s yeast or different wine yeasts).”

What do you think will happen next? “Our feeling is that there will be continued development of speciality products, produced industrially. Interest in dried yeast is growing amongst our customers too. At AB Mauri, we have a dedicated team of strain development specialists, located in Sydney, Australia, to ensure we keep at the forefront of upcoming trends.”

What should bakers be thinking about when selecting their yeasts? “There’s clearly a demand for more industrially produced speciality products from bakers and manufacturers. Today’s environment is definitely more about product consistency and performance under a wide range of baking conditions, over a greater selection of bread recipes. Bakers need to consider all of this when thinking Ready to rise about yeasts.”

39 BAKERY BUSINESS Market Place

The latest product launches and innovations from the bakery industry

DAWN FOODS Sweet pastry filling mixes Dawn Foods has created a range of bake-stable dry filling mixes for spreading, filling or layering into sweet pastries, dough and sweet breads. Bakers just need to add water to the mixes and leave to hydrate for 10-15 minutes in order to create moist, finished products (Quark also requires curd cheese). The new dry filling mixes are available in two formats: PlusFill, which features inclusions to give added texture; and BakeFill, which is a neutral product that can be paired with Dawn fillings or flavours to make fruity or chocolatey combinations. dawnfoods.com

CENTRAL FOODS Individually portioned roulade Central Foods has launched individual portions of its most popular flavour of roulade. Gluten-free and suitable for vegetarians, the hand-rolled and finished Menuserve raspberry and white chocolate roulades are now available in individual 90g portions. The meringue roulades are filled with fresh whipped cream, homemade raspberry OTIS SPUNKMEYER sauce and white chocolate chips. Central Foods offers a range of eight different Cracked Egg muffin American sweet bakery brand Otis Spunkmeyer flavours of roulade – others of which are also available in individual portions. has introduced a limited edition Cracked Egg centralfoods.co.uk muffin in time for Easter sales. The chocolate chip muffin is filled with rich vanilla cream and topped with a white chocolate-cream ‘cracked egg’ decoration. NAIRN’S DÉLIFRANCE Research has found that more than 50% of Coconut and chia oat biscuit Pre-packed vegan croissant consumers are looking for sweet bakery items with additional layers, added flavour and Each new coconut and chia oat biscuit In order to meet demand for vegan texture components. from Nairn’s has 55% less sugar than viennoiserie in retail outlets, Délifrance The muffins are supplied frozen in cases of the average sweet biscuit currently on has launched a prepacked spelt flour 28 and can be thawed and served in a matter of minutes. the market and combines the health and quinoa croissant. aryztafoodsolutions.co.uk benefits of wholegrain oats, with two of The new croissant is the first in a long the world’s biggest trending ingredients line of NPD to be launched throughout – coconut and chia. Nairn’s has already 2019 and has been added to the been recognised by Action on Sugar for bakery’s Feel Good range. producing biscuits with the lowest sugar delifrance.com/uk content per 100g and second lowest calorie content per biscuit. nairns-oatcakes.com

40 PAN’ARTISAN Gluten-free dough pucks Pan’Artisan has added gluten-free dough pucks to its free-from range of pizza bases. The company’s new gluten-free dough puck has been developed by Red House specifically for Pan’Artisan. The pucks are supplied frozen and once thawed, can be shaped or rolled to the desired size and shape to create various menu favourites such as pizza, calzone, bruschetta, topped flatbreads, garlic bread, flavoured bread sticks, canapés and street food carriers. In addition to the gluten-free dough puck, the company has developed a vegan, gluten-free naan dough puck. There are also two new gluten-free pizza bases that offer a lighter, fluffier texture and a softer crumb. panartisan.com

COUNTRY RANGE Bacon and cheese turnover Country Range has launched a bacon and cheese turnover for caterers as a handheld snack for breakfast, brunch and on-the-go. Made using premium thick-cut bacon and mature Cheddar cheese, the turnover features a light puff pastry and can be cooked from frozen in under 30 minutes. The new product comes in cases of 40x140g and is available exclusively through the Country Range Group’s network of 12 independent wholesalers. countryrange.co.uk COUNTRY CHOICE Viennese pastry range Country Choice’s new Extravagant range comprises three types of Viennese pastries, which weigh 95g each and are made to a pure butter recipe. BETTYS BISCUITEERS The muesli and blueberry Extravagant has a Fondant fancies Mother’s Day Collection filling of crunchy muesli made with almonds, rolled These fondant fancies from Bettys’ spring collection This year’s spring collections are now ready for oats and malted wheat flakes, blueberries, and is are dainty Genoese sponge cakes sandwiched with customers to order from Biscuiteers’ website and in- topped with rolled oats. raspberry preserve and buttercream and topped store purchase. An example from the new collection The triple chocolate Extravagant is a with marzipan. Each fancy is coated in pink or ivory is this Mother’s Day Tea for Two biscuit tin. The combination of white, milk and dark chocolate. fondant and is hand-finished with a flower design. 2019 collection was inspired by the Biscuiteers’ love The raspberry cheesecake Extravagant has a New They are available to order in a party cake serve of of retro patterns and the designs of pottery artist York cheesecake-style filling made with whole 16, or boxes of four and nine. Clarice Cliff. It’s part of the wider Tea Collection, raspberries. A pink sugar topping adds crunch. All bettys.co.uk which includes a British-grown tea offering, three Extravagant Viennese pastries are packed in produced on the Tregothnan estate. 60s and have a shelf life of two days wrapped, and biscuiteers.com one day unwrapped. countrychoice.co.uk

41 BAKERY BUSINESS Crafty Baker

Shh... The Crafty Baker is a sneaky peek into the inner workings of the industry’s top professional brains. Something on your mind? Air your views anonymously by emailing [email protected] Sorry for your loss Nearly 1,000 jobs were lost in the industry this year, even before 2019 had gathered any pace. This month, the Crafty Baker considers those who suffer most when the administrators come knocking

It’s all well and good getting stuck into the recent saga difficult for those made redundant knowing that the engulfing Patisserie Valerie (I admit even I was looking company is still trading at other sites. Right now, writing forward to the next big shocker to come from reports this in February, administrators KPMG are hopeful that of the major financial fraud) but the reality is its 2,500 they will find a buyer for the collapsed bakery chain employees may have been waking up each morning after receiving a number of offers for the business. This since the news broke in October thinking, ‘Is this my last fraudulent episode’s consequences have been devas- day at work?’ tatingly far-reaching. No business ever wants to deliver Imagine getting more information about the security the awful news of job losses to the very people that make of your daily job by reading BBC news online each morn- trading possible. I implore any bakery owners out there ing? National headlines carried fresh blows every day. who regrettably end up wearing these shoes at some Patisserie Valerie’s dirty laundry has been carted point in their career – please communicate as much as around the country in a very public fashion, and like you can to your workers. They deserve your information, most employers I know, there has been in daily battle which in turn gives them the gift of time to find another to save jobs on the ground. job to minimise disruption to their monthly income. I remember in my younger days working in retail. One morning I woke up to the postman delivering a letter from my company’s administrator bearing the bad news. Our bosses (who worked remotely and visit- ed rarely – I should have seen it coming) cut all communication. We went into work that day obediently and began manically phoning the other stores. Same story. The retailer didn’t close, but we’d lost all confidence in our employer and left regardless – with many still missing money from previous pay packets. So, I can sympathise with the 900 or so people at Patisserie Valerie who, after a rollercoaster couple of months, were finally delivered the news of their redun- dancies for the 70 outlets closing. But the latest twist in the sorry tale, according to a recent BBC report, is that workers for the company have not been paid for their final month’s work. One manager reports missing a month’s salary as well as two months’ bonus, earned “Patisserie Valerie’s dirty laundry from meeting targets. Apparently, a spokesperson for KPMG has said it was “providing them with support, in- has been carted around the cluding assisting with claims to the Redundancy Pay- country in a very public fashion” ments Service.” While this may provide some comfort, it is by no means a quick fix. It could take up to six weeks to see any money at all. This must be even more

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45 BAKERS’ REVIEW Updates

POLICY OPTION 3 - REQUIRE THE NAME OF THE FOOD POLICY OPTION 4 - REQUIRE NAME OF THE FOOD AND FULL AND ALLERGEN LABELLING ON THE PACKAGING OF PPDS INGREDIENT LIST LABELLING, WITH ALLERGENS EMPHASISED, FOOD (REGULATORY OPTION) ON PACKAGING OF FOOD PREPACKED FOR DIRECT SALE This option introduces a regulatory measure requiring This option introduces a regulatory measure requiring PPDS PPDS foods to have a label on the packaging to tell the foods to have a label naming the food and listing the full consumer the name of the food and which of the 14 ingredients with allergens emphasised on the packaging. allergens the product intentionally contains. Labelling will need to include: • The name of the food ADVANTAGES • The list of ingredients • Less difficult to implement than full ingredient • Any of the 14 allergens highlighted within the labelling ingredient list • Less risk of mislabelling than full ingredient labelling ADVANTAGES • Non-allergenic ingredient substitutions can be • Consistent approach for food that is prepacked and PPDS made without changing the label • Gives consumers with allergies the most trust in what they • Gives consumers clear, product specific are eating Information on the food packaging • Helps consumers with allergies to foods other than the 14 • If food is taken to eat later or to give to a third allergens to choose safely party, allergen information is available • Does not rely on staff providing accurate information directly DISADVANTAGES • Gives consumers clear, product specific information on the • Risk of mislabelling especially when different food packaging products made simultaneously • If food is taken to eat later or to give to a third party, • Risk of more allergen incidents as consumers allergen information is available trust information on labels • Discourages dialogue between consumers and DISADVANTAGES staff about allergens • Cost of full labelling may stifle innovation and new • May incur additional administration, equipment product development and training costs • May constrain supply chain purchases and availability • Generic packaging would disappear or need to as with Option 3 be supplemented with another label • People suffering allergies to foods other than the 14 allergens will not benefit Head to the website consult.defra.uk and type • May reduce consumer choice as businesses likely ‘amending allergen information’ into the search bar for more info on the consultation. It closes on 29 March, so to reduce product variations you don’t have much time to protect your business!

Parliamentary insight

By David Smith, political consultant conclusions would be reached and discussed again until a consen- to the CBA sus was agreed. Not anymore. It is now done online and anyone, absolutely anyone, can join in. So, special interest groups will be Further to Melissa Thompson’s whipping up their members on Facebook, Instagram and the like article on allergen labelling, I want to respond to the consultation. They could measure in the thou- to accentuate the importance of sands. They will demand the most extreme measures. This could the consultation. lead to full ingredient labelling with everything you sell prepacked. Firstly, you need to be aware of I, therefore, cannot stress how important it is that you, as indi- how consultation has changed with vidual bakery businesses, respond to the consultation. There are the advent of social media and 43 questions in the consultation paper. Many of them require an the internet. Once, a consultation explanation and are not simply a tick box. It is these explanations between industry and govern- that are important. The civil servants have no idea how many dif- ment was conducted in Whitehall, ferent products you sell. They have no idea of the cost of labelling. around the table with all the interest- They have no idea how mandatory labelling of products will affect ed parties and civil servants who understood the problem. Draft your ability to change, improve, or modify your products.

07 BAKERS’ REVIEW Updates

Proposals to change allergen labelling rules

By Melissa Thompson POLICY OPTION 1 – PROMOTE BEST PRACTICE (NON- REGULATORY OPTION) CBA members can get free telephone advice on food hygiene, This option would not require a legislative change but would health and safety and food labelling matters include activities to promote best practice for businesses and consumers. It would encompass best practice for all non- Continuing fatalities from food allergic reactions and highly prepacked foods, including PPDS. publicised campaigns by families of those affected have raised the issue of whether current allergen laws give consumers the Activities for promoting best practice may include: information they need to make safe food choices. • Best practice guidance for the catering sector to be A consultation has been launched proposing amendments to produced by the FSA and Food Standards Scotland (FSS) and the law relating to foods that are prepacked for direct sale (PPDS). made available to all local authorities. • Business conferences hosted by DEFRA, FSA and FSS to WHAT ARE PPDS FOODS? discuss best practice and encourage change without a There is no definition of PPDS, but the Food Standards Agency legislative change. (FSA) considers these are foods that: • Public information campaign to highlight allergen knowledge • are prepacked on the same premises from which they are and awareness for food businesses and the general public. sold • are made or packed by a person who is available to ask ADVANTAGES about the ingredients • Potential to be implemented in a shorter timescale In a bakery or café, any food that is prepacked on the premises than legislative change in anticipation of an order, before being offered for sale, would • Can be adapted to continue to be fit for purpose be PPDS. Examples may include foods which the consumer self- • Flexibility to make allergen information available in a selects from a chiller cabinet or must ask a member of staff for, way that best suits a business e.g. a sandwich or boxed salad on display behind a counter. Food ordered and collected in person by a consumer in a DISADVANTAGES takeaway, may be PPDS if it was packed before it was offered for • No guarantee that businesses will change their sale, e.g. a wrapped Cornish pasty or a boxed meat pie under a practices hot lamp. In a retail environment, the following examples would also be PPDS, provided they are packed on the premises from which they POLICY OPTION 2 - REQUIRE “ASK THE STAFF” LABELS are being sold before they are offered for sale: ON PPDS FOOD, WITH SUPPORTING INFORMATION FOR • Fresh (uncooked) pizzas; CONSUMERS IN WRITING (REGULATORY OPTION) • Pre-weighed cheese or meats In the absence of a full list of ingredients or a list of the • Baked goods allergens contained within the product on the packaging, food prepacked for direct sale would include a label/sticker WHY ARE PPDS FOODS THOUGHT TO POSE A RISK TO ALLERGY on the packaging advising consumers to “ask the staff” SUFFERERS? about allergens. When asked about allergens, staff would Unlike prepacked foods whose labelling must include a list have to provide supporting information in writing upon of ingredients (with allergens highlighted) PPDS foods do not request, before the food was purchased. currently require any information on the packaging. Concerns have been raised that it can be difficult for ADVANTAGES consumers to distinguish between prepacked and PPDS foods, • Least costly to implement of the regulatory options being especially where the latter contains marketing information considered describing some but not necessarily all the ingredients. • Already being rolled out by many businesses Anecdotal evidence suggests that consumers assume that the • Will consistently encourage consumers to talk to staff absence of allergen information on food packaging means food about allergens allergens are not contained in the product. This may not be the • Does not carry the risk of mislabelling case for PPDS foods. DISADVANTAGES WHAT ARE THE CHANGES UNDER CONSIDERATION? • Failure to provide enough information for consumers There are four options put forward to improve the provision of not confident to speak to staff information to consumers about food allergens present in PPDS • Availability of appropriately trained staff foods. Each option need not be considered as exclusive; options • Risk if food is taken off the premises and given to a may be combined, or different options may be applied to third-party food allergic consumer different sizes of businesses in a two-tiered approach.

06 BAKERS’ REVIEW Updates

TOPIC OF THE MONTH: Employee Contracts

One of the first questions asked by the CBA when speaking to If you need new or updated contracts for your employees, any member who contacts the office requiring employment contact the CBA on 01920 4680 61. As a member, this forms law advice is, ‘What does it say in your employee’s contract?’ part of your membership subscription. Occasionally the answer is, ‘We don’t have contracts, we’ve never needed to issue them to our employees’; or, ‘Our em- NEW NATIONAL MINIMUM AND STATUTORY PAYMENT ployees know what their job role is’; and even, ‘The employ- RATES AND PENSION AUTO ENROLMENT 2019 ees don’t want a contract’. The proposed rates for the following will come into force on 6 From a legal perspective, all employees must be issued April 2019. with a contract. This is to safeguard you as an employer, enables you to implement your company standards and National Minimum Wage ensures your employee is aware of company standards, along with the expectation the company has in terms of Category of worker Hourly rate their job role. Aged 25 and above (Nation- £8.21 ISSUING CONTRACTS al Living Wage rate) While the legal requirement is to issue at least a statement within the first two months of employment, we would Aged 21 to 24 inclusive £7.70 always advise you to send a copy to the employee before they join. This way, if there are any queries or problems with Aged 18 to 20 inclusive £6.15 the terms of the contract these can be resolved before their first day. Aged under 18 (but above £4.35 compulsory school leaving FAILURE TO ISSUE A CONTRACT/STATEMENT age) An employee who is not issued with a statement of terms and conditions within two months of starting work, or who Apprentices aged under 19 £3.90 is given an incomplete or inaccurate statement, may com- plain to an employment tribunal. Apprentices aged 19 and £3.90 The tribunal may require you to issue the employee with over, but in the first year of a statement, but in the absence of a statement and when their apprenticeship a claim is being considered, the tribunal will decide what terms were agreed or are to be implied in the contract. NEW STATUTORY PAYMENT RATES 2019/2020 An employee who brings another claim to a tribunal and does not have an up-to-date statement of terms and Statutory Sick Pay (SSP) £94.25 pw conditions may be awarded up to a further four weeks’ Statutory Maternity Pay (SMP) £148.68 pw pay. Statutory Paternity Pay (SPP) £148.68 pw Shared Parental Pay (ShPP) £148.68 pw UPDATING AND CHANGING CONTRACTS Statutory Adoption Pay (SAP) £148.68 pw Contracts of employment may include flexibility clauses which enable the employer to change some of the terms Please note: if your employee’s average weekly earnings are within the contract, e.g. job duties or title, location, or less than the statutory rate for SMP, SPP ShPP and SAP, they work and shift arrangements. Any changes to the contract are entitled to 90% of their weekly earnings. agreed between the employer and employee must be The Lower Earnings Limit (LEL), which is the amount an confirmed in writing within one month of the change. employee must earn in order to qualify for these statutory Employment rules and policies, provided they are payments, is set to rise from £116 pw to £118 pw. non-contractual, can be changed unilaterally by the employer without there being any breach of contract. Collec- AUTO ENROLMENT tively agreed terms can only be changed by agreement. If By now employers should be thinking about sending letters you need to change the current contracts of existing em- out to all workers in relation to the increase in the auto en- ployees, bear in mind that consultation is key – you cannot rolment pension contributions. An example template can be simply force a unilateral change. If the employees have downloaded from the Pensions Regulator website, head to: been properly briefed on the reasons for the change(s) https://bit.ly/2E5Hamy. and understand the need for this, it is much easier to gain From 6 April 2019 onwards, the increase for the employer’s acceptance than if the change(s) are simply presented as minimum contribution is 3%, staff contribution goes up to 5% a ‘fait accompli’. – bringing the total increase to 8%.

05 BAKERS’ REVIEW Updates

Chip & PIN Solutions rebrands as Valitor

Chip & PIN Solutions was acquired in July 2017 by Valitor, an international payment solutions company headquar- tered in Iceland. Since this acquisition, it has been on an exciting growth journey. It feels that now is the right time to retire the Chip & PIN Solutions brand and website, while remaining true to its historic values of honesty, trust and high service standards. Valitor will continue to offer first class payment solutions to Craft Bakers Association (CBA) members, from card ter- minals to merchant accounts, that work with your needs. Its partnership with the CBA will also remain the same – members will still receive discounted rates and exceptional service. Valitor’s mission to make buying and selling easy, coupled with a focus on putting customers first, remains the same.

THE VALITOR BRAND Just as people and businesses evolve, so do brands. Valitor has come a long way over the past 35 years – evolv- ing from an Icelandic issuer and acquirer to an international payment solutions company. Today it operates across 22 European countries with a strong presence in the UK, Ireland, Iceland, Nordics and pan-European retail.

Do you have CCTV on your President’s Coconut Shortbread recipe business premises? (makes approx. 80 round biscuits) Have you registered with the Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO)?

Are you aware of the new regulation covering CCTV cameras? CBA member Timothy Brosnan of Hobden & Sons has advised that during the maintenance service carried out on his CCTV cameras, he was informed that under the new GDPR regulations, he had to register the The addition of wholemeal flour adds fibre, and the coconut adds cameras with the ICO. texture and flavour. As a member, his first call was to the CBA to ask for • White baker’s flour 900g advice. After a little research, the CBA was able to confirm • Wholemeal flour 100g to its member that this was correct, and the requirement • Caster sugar 750g had been in place since May 2018. • Cake margarine or butter 500g For more information, you can call the ICO help- • Baking powder 25g line on 0303 1231113 between 9 am and 5pm or visit the • Fine/medium dessicated coconut 750g website ico.org.uk. • One whole egg 65g There is a charge for registering, which will vary de- • Milk 125g (approx) pending on how many employees work for your business • Lemon juice or essence, as required and your annual turnover. This is determined once you have answered a set of questions. Mix the dry ingredients to a crumb. Blend the liquid ingredients Do you have an experience to share which can together. Add the liquid ingredients to the crumb and mix to a clear help your fellow bakers? Then email the team at dough. Process as a traditional shortbread, or as a round biscuit [email protected]. Thank you Mr dusted with sugar after baking. Brosnan for bringing this to our attention! Bake at 200°C for approx. 25mins depending on your oven type.

BAKERS’ REVIEW

Welcome DIARY DATES

10 APRIL 2019 Western Region AGM – BAKO Western, Cullompton

11-18 MAY 2019 Brexit, National Doughnut Week 18 MAY 2019 Scottish Bakers Glasgow Dance – Brexit, Brexit! Crowne Plaza Hotel, Glasgow 18 MAY 2019 Kent Craft Bakers Association Dinner Like me, you may be fed up with it? Surely the biggest issue since & Competition – Oakwood House The Act of Settlement in 1707 demands more from our MPs than Hotel, Maidstone

squabbling about the procedure and political point scoring? The 30 MAY - 2 JUNE 2019 referendum result was clear, so let’s get on and deliver it, or is AIBI European Plant Bakers that too simple? Conference – The Midland Hotel, Manchester On a less mundane note, H2O Publishing – our media partner, publisher of Bakery Business magazine and our Bakers’ Review – 7-8 JUNE 2019 WORDS is hosting the National Bakery Awards. Let’s get behind the idea ABST Conference – Alton Towers

GEORGE and showcase the best bakeries across the UK. County Winners 7-8 JUNE 2019 FULLER will be invited to attend a glittering presentation event in Lon- Scottish Bakers Annual Conference & don in June. The closing date for entries is Friday 5 April 2019. Awards – Crowne Plaza Hotel, Glasgow Chairman of So, come on, give it a go and let’s see CBA members up there 26 SEPTEMBER 2019 the Craft Bakers competing with other bakery businesses and hopefully pro- Tiptree World Bread Awards with Association duce the winner! To find out more information and enter, visit: Brook Food 2019 judging day – Westminster Cathedral, London nationalbakeryawards.co.uk. NEW MEMBERS Talking of competitions, look out for details of those taking 13 OCTOBER 2019 place at the Craft Bakers and Butchers Extravaganza. This is a Western Region Craft Bakers Rob Lincoln, Association Bakery Championships – trade exhibition being held at Royal Armouries, the exhibition BAKO Western, Cullompton Bodnant Welsh centre in Leeds, adjacent to the museum, Sunday 20 October Food Centre, 2019. This follows the AGM and presidential installation dinner 15 OCTOBER 2019 Conway, Tiptree World Bread Awards with on Saturday 19 October 2019, which is happening within the north Wales Brook Food 2019 awards ceremony – museum itself. Many trade exhibitors are to be in attendance, St John’s Hyde Park, London showcasing their produce and, in addition, there will be a range Ronnie Finch, 19 OCTOBER 2019 The Bread Station, of bakery competitions giving everyone an opportunity to show Craft Bakers Presidential Election London off their baking skills. Details of these will be printed in Bakers’ Dinner – Royal Armouries Exhibition Review, Bakery Business and our very own 13 Magazine as they Centre, Leeds Nigel Bramman, come in. 20 OCTOBER 2019 Theydon Bois Let’s champion all these events and raise the profile of our The Craft Bakers and Butchers Bakery, Epping, exceptional craft baking industry. Extravaganza Exhibition – Royal Essex Armouries, Leeds

Alan Spain, The Good luck to all those who enter! Bakehouse, Salcombe, GEORGE FULLER Devon Chairman of the Craft Bakers Association An article from 1969, 50 years ago, and a question which is just as relevant today, if not more so: How can we attract young people?

Members of the Bradford Association were asked at the February meeting if they could suggest any way of attracting young people into the trade. “Although it is not a glamorous trade,” said Mr D.W. Richardson, “it is an artistic one, but many young people consider it a dead-end job”. Mrs J. Hodgson said the employment bureaux were sent literature on the trade, but many failed to display it. Mr H. Ward said, “There was no job more varied or interesting than baking, but to get a better class of employee, higher wages would have to be paid, and the extra costs passed onto the public”. The association is to hold a flower arrangement demonstration followed by a pea and pie supper on March 19, at a charge of 3s. a head, and members were invited to bring their friends.

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HAVE YOUR SAY: TAKE PART IN THE DEFRA CONSULTATION ON PROPOSED CHANGES TO ALLERGEN LABELLING