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what want us to Know About Cats (as taught to us by our 1001 Foster Cats and )

southern counties rescue adoption package

Southern Counties Rescue - Cats & Kittens Serving Orange, Imperial & San Diego Counties

www.southerncountiesrescue.org BOARD MEMBERS-VOLUNTEERS

Linda Walliss Phyllis Elijah Julie Parlett 949.768.5390 323.394.0954 714.756.0679 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

If questions or you cannot keep a kitty you adopted from us for ANY reason please contact one of us listed above.

View our website at: http://www.southerncountiesrescue.org to see our kitties available for adoption and other useful information under RESOURCES, such as How to Pill a ...

Southern Counties Rescue Inc. Serving Orange, Imperial & San Diego Counties PO Box 1399, Brawley, CA 92227 [email protected]

Visit us on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/SouthernCountiesRescue Contents At A Glance

INTRODUCING NEW KITTY TO YOUR HOME...... 5 INTRODUCING CHILDREN TO NEW KITTY...... 6 FOOD RECOMMENDATIONS FROM RESCUE...... 7 SHOPPING LIST...... 8 What Your Kitty Needs Besides Love...... 9 CAT PROOFING YOUR HOME...... 10 INTRODUCING YOUR NEW CAT TO YOUR ...... 12 Cats Need Wet Food...... 14 Catkins Diet (for chubby cats)...... 18 Cats Need Water...... 22 Biting and Scratching...... 25 How to Manage Your Cat and its Claws...... 26 Cat Scratchers (Examples)...... 27 Trimming Your CAT’s Claws...... 28 Important Information about Declawing...... 29 Declawing: Another ’s Perspective...... 31 Beating Boredon...... 34 Creating the Purrfect Haven...... 35 Litter Boxs (issues & Examples)...... 38 Solving Litter Box Problems, Part 1 & Part 2...... 39 MOVING WITH YOUR CAT­...... 45 Care for your pets for life, their life...... 46 What Your Cat Misses by Not Going Outdoors...... 49 Poisonous Plants...... 50 The Rising Threat of Coyotes...... 51 Finding YOur Lost Cat...... 53 Ways to Protect Your Cat...... 55 101: When to Visit the Vet...... 56 How to Save Money at the Vet’s Office...... 57 Vet Recommendations - Orange County Area...... 58 Low Cost Spay & Neuter Clinics...... 60 favorite cat related websites...... 61 About Southern Counties Rescue...... 62 Acknowledgements

This manual is a compilation of years of doing cat rescue and a lot of reading about cats on the internet. Much of it I compiled from the knowledge of my fellow rescue enthusiasts in Rescue, while I was active with them for over 11 years prior to starting Southern Counties Rescue. When you place a cat or kitten into a new home you want it to have every chance of suc- ceeding so you write handouts for the new adopter telling them what to expect in the first week, how to introduce their new cat or kitten to their children, what to feed and on and on. Soon you have a book of knowledge about cats and kittens. I am also grateful for the wonderful vets who share their extensive knowledge on the inter- net just to make like better and healthier for cats. Much of the basis of these articles come from the Internet. And my own personal vets who will answer question after question for me, all to help the kitties. I want to thank Newsletter created by Tufts University, Cummings School of Vet- erinary Medicine for writing and publishing such easy to read but thorough articles on all issues important to cats. They accept no advertisements from companies who make cat products so they have no conflict of interest when they rate food, litter, toys and other cat products. It’s like a Consumer Guide for cats. They also share the latest information on cat health problems and solutions, good topics to discuss with your vet. If you only subscribe to one cat publication I highly recommend Catnip. Go to this website, http://www.tuftscatnip. com/ to subscribe. I have personally placed over 850 cats and kittens into new homes and have been involved with the rescue of over a 1200 cats and kittens. Before I started in Rescue I though I knew cats, after all I was a cat owner for 15 years but I realized I didn’t know cats at all. From everyone of these critters I have learned something, no two are alike. They all have their own personality and they may or may not adjust to their new home the same way. With rescue kitties patience is a must. A very sincere thank you goes out to my fellow volunteers who have suffered with sick kitties and dying kitties, huge vet bills, unpaid personal bills, all to help these kitties find a forever home. And last but not least a very big THANK YOU to everyone who adopts from Rescue giving one more kitty a forever home.

Phyllis Elijah, President Southern Counties Rescue Saving Cats and Kittens One at a Time. INTRODUCING NEW KITTY TO YOUR HOME What to Expect of Your New in the Next Week

The first 24-48 hours your new cat spends in your home are very crucial. Please follow these guidelines to reduce the change of adjustment problems. Please remember you are placing your pet in new surroundings with unfamiliar sights and smells. Different furniture and eating places will add to its confusion. Your cat may be disoriented, frightened by sudden movements, loud noises, and even the threat of another animal. If you have other pets this is especially important. ISOLATION DO NOT PUT COLLARS ON KITTENS UNDER 5 LBS! We strongly recommend isolating a new cat in a room with minimal hiding places (such as a bathroom) for the first 1-2 days. Provide the cat with its very own toys, bed, litterbox and bowls of food and water in that room (bathrooms are ideal because there are no hiding places you can’t reach). One more suggestion—put clothing that has been worn by the family members in there with the kitty—get them use to the smells. HEALTH WATCH , diarrhea and eye/nose discharge can occur during a cat’s transition to a new home due to the stress of a change in environment and/or change in diet. If these symptoms persist beyond 48 hours, however, please contact us or a veterinarian. WARNING SIGNS • Blood in the stool • Loss of appetite • Fever • Excessive diarrhea • Lethargy • Difficulty breathing • Excessive nose discharge and sneezing • Excessive vomiting

SPEAK SOFTLY… MOVE SLOWLY… STROKE GENTLY! • Visiting the cat often will help him/her bond to you without being overwhelmed by a new environment right away. Introduce family members and friends slowly and one-at-a-time. Your cat will not hate you and is not being deprived by being closed in a single room. It’s vital that you give your new family member some time in an enclosed area to develop a sense of security and to appreciate you. You’re the best thing that happens in your cat’s day—don’t feel guilty! After the isolation period allow the cat access to more and more of your home. Hiding, skittishness and meowing is normal during the adjustment period. It usually takes a few weeks or more for a cat to feel settled in a new home. Animals respond to threatening situations by “shutting down” for a period of time. It may not eat, miss the litterbox, or even have diarrhea. Let your new cat or kitten sleep a lot. However, if this behavior continues for more than a few days, call the foster parent from whom you adopted. Feed her/him familiar food in frequent, small doses. This teaches the pet that you’ll love and care for it. Only feed a high quality food. REASSURE! While feeding your cat, talk softly and gently—repeating the pet’s new name. If the cat is comfortable with it, try soft stroking or scratching on the back of the neck. When you think your pet is ready, for instance it tries to follow you out the door (not to get away but to be with you). Then allow it to explore new surroundings by opening the door and allowing it to investigate nearby rooms. The original room will be his/her source of safety and comfort so keep it accessible. It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to introduce other pets gradually. Read the article, Introducing Your New Cat to Your Pets. Your new cat should NOT interact with your existing pets for at least 24 hours or longer. If your cat is shy, it may be because of former neglect or abuse. They need time to learn who you are and what sounds and smells are normal in your house. Sounds you take for granted such as key chains, your neighbor’s dog barking, the flushing of a toilet, your children watching TV, or sirens on a nearby street will take time for him/her to adjust to. It takes 3 to 6 months for a cat to really settle in. Please be patient… the love you will receive is a wonderful reward! 5 INTRODUCING CHILDREN TO NEW KITTY Children are extremely excited with a new cat or kittens join the family. Please follow these guidelines to insure a happy transition. Explain to your children that everything is new and confusing to your new pet.

ONE AT A TIME Your new kitty is in isolation and scared due to all of the new surrounding and loss of familiar ones including sometimes siblings and cat buddies. If you have multiple children have them go into the isolation room ONE at a time. For at least the first few visits, a parent should be present to help the child learn how to handle the cat/kitten and to read the cat’s communication signs. This also allows the child his/her own time to bond with the kitty without siblings struggling over the kitties. This is especially important for the younger sibling(s).

SHORT VISITS Keep the visits short, no more than 10-15 minutes at a time. This prevents the cat/kittens from getting stressed as a result of too much attention while they are adjusting. It also keeps the other children from getting too impatient for their turn.

SPEAK SOFTLY… MOVE SLOWLY… STROKE GENTLY! • Sit on the floor, use a toy such as a string or wand/pole type cat toy to entice the kitty to come to you. • Do NOT allow the child to grab the cat/kitten and pull it out from it’s “safe place”. • Coach it out by gently tossing toys or providing treats, even tossing dry kibble . Remember the kitten/cat is going through it’s adjustment period so it may have less energy so don’t force it to play madly, slow movements with the cat wand is best at first. Pick cat up gently once it’s use to you. Always support it’s bottom feet. If it starts to struggle, let it go.

TEACH CAT SIGNS All cats communicate with what we call “cat signs”: tail movements, ear movements, vocally... Teach these basic ones to your children and teach them to respond appropriately. • Tail straight up in air – happy , confident cat, a greeting. OK to play with and approach. • Tail down moving side-to-side, a switching movement – leave me alone! Cat does NOT want to be bothered, getting irritated at actions of others (could be other cats, people or surroundings). Children might confuse this with a dog’s wagging tail. • Tail arched and puffed out – cat is scared and is ready to attack or defend itself. Leave cat alone, do not try to pick up, it will bite. • Tail held low and tucked between hind legs – cat is showing submission or defeat. • Ears up and alert – interested in surrounding, toy, etc. OK to approach and interact with cat. • Ears twitching nervously – cat is agitated and nervous. Speak softly and calmly, approach slowly. • Ears flat against head – definitely scared or angry, a defensive position. Leave cat alone. Do NOT try to coach out of being angry, this is when people get bit. • Ears back – again this is an aggressive position and may attack. DO NOT approach and try to handle. • Fur on back bristling – definitely frightened and on defensive, cat may attack. DO NOT approach. • Eyes—pupils—greatly enlarged – cat excited, angered or scared. Leave cat in peace, let him relax. There are a lot more cat communications with tails, ear, fur, eyes and vocally. Check these & other websites: http://www.wikihow.com/Communicate-with-Your-Cat http://www.pets.ca/cats/articles/cat-communication/ http://jennifercopley.suite101.com/what-a-cats-tail-is-saying-a110402 6 FOOD RECOMMENDATIONS FROM RESCUE

Many people ask us what we consider “the best” brand of cat food. Most of us have different preferences (usually dictated by the whims of our own cats), but there are some universals we have discovered through experience and research. 1. Know What You’re Feeding. The key in choosing a good type of food is to read the ingredients. Cats are obligate and their bodies are designed to metabolize meat. Many foods, particularly dry foods, are loaded with grains that cats are not able to metabolize and therefore have limited nutritional value. Don’t judge a food just by the content listed on the label; there is a major difference between a food that has 30% protein derived largely from corn (the worst of the grains for cats) and a food whose protein content is entirely or primarily from meat. In addition, many cats can develop digestive and allergic conditions from eating a grain heavy diet. 2. Wet vs. Dry. Although dry food is certainly more convenient, wet food is much better for cats. Wet food is easier to digest and has a much higher water content (cats are better off when they get their necessary water intake from food, as they do in the wild, rather than from drinking). Dry food, in contrast, absorbs water as it passes through the cat’s system, which over the long term can lead to premature . Dry foods are also more likely to cause , which in turn can lead to other health problems, including feline diabetes. Many people have heard that dry food is better for a cat’s teeth – this is actually a myth that was probably thought up by a cat food sales representative. In fact, the opposite is true: dry foods that are grain heavy (which is virtually all of them) leave a starchy coating on the teeth that increase plaque and tartar buildup! 3. Cheap isn’t better. Cheaper cat foods may save you money day to day, but the long-term impact on the cat’s health may end up costing you more. When you don’t have that many feline mouths to feed, the difference between feeding a premium, healthy

4.diet Do and some a junky research diet is. Unhealthy relative small. pet foods But the are impact marketed on your as relentlessly cat’s health and can ruthlessly be quite significant.as unhealthy food for people. Fortunately, heavy prescription diet is really the best way to manage a medical problem or how to make a healthy raw diet for your cat, informationthere are plenty is always of resources just a few on clicks the Internet away! to help you learn more about feline nutrition. Whether it’s figuring out if a grain-

The following list of recommended foods is based on all of these factors. Of course, new companies and labels come into existence all the time, so your best guide is to learn to read the food’s ingredients and see for yourself what is best for your cat’s health!

Wet Foods Dry Foods** Advanced Pet Diet Merrick Artemis Fresh Mix Innova Artemis Fresh Mix Natural Balance Advanced Pet Diet Nature’s Variety Instinct Avo Derm Newman’s Own Blue Buffalo Natural Balance By Nature 95% (Chewy.com) Nutro Natural Choice & Max California Natural Newman’s Own Blue Buffalo Fromm Merrick Prairie California Natural Pet Promise Evo Taste of the Wild Evanger’s Prairie Felidae Wellness Evo Nature’s Variety Instinct Fromm Precise

Felidae Trader Joe’s Halo Royal Canin Halo Wellness Trader Joe’s Weruva Innova Weruva & BFF Costco Cat Premium Purina Smart Choice Healthy Kitten ** Many of these dry foods are grain free. Check the ingredients. And remember: always have plenty of fresh water for your cat, change it at least once a day. We recommend feeding wet food twice a day, usually around ¼ can (6 oz) per cat per meal, and leaving a bowl of dry food out to graze on unless your cat is or has urinary tract problems, then eliminate or limit the amount of dry food. The food your cat has been eating is circled above and/or is: ______The flavors we recommend are: Chicken & primarily, with occasional fish & Note: Sometimes we feed lesser quality food due to cost of fostering, please transition your cats to above guidelines. 7 SHOPPING LIST

You must have the following items when you bring your cat home: • Cat Carrier • Good Quality Wet Food (Should be marked on Food Recommendations page, if not ask foster) • Good Quality Dry Food (Should be marked on Food Recommendations page, if not ask foster) • Cardboard Scratcher for “introduction to your home” room • Litter Box & Scoop • Litter

If you don’t have these at home, buy these too: • Metal or ceramic bowl for water • Metal or ceramic dish for dry food (DO NOT use plastic feeder) • Small dish for wet food • Cat bed—this can be a towel folded on floor • Toy—home made is fine

Within the first week be sure you have: • Nail Trimmers or Clippers (some vets use human ones) • Brush or grooming comb or both • Sturdy scratching posts, more the merrier to prevent scratching on furniture

Not essential but cats love: • Kitty grass, or any organic grass for them to eat • Cat bed • Toys • Lounge Cat Scratcher out of cardboard

True Luxuries to spoil your cat: • Window perch • Bird feeder or fountain outside to attract visitors (cat TV) • Enclosed outside area or outdoor cat proof fencing. • Extra large cat tree or wall mounted cat ramps & perches • Heated cat bed by K&H, or one of their pads to put into another cat bed. • Interactive toys, like Peek & Play, Round Cat Scratcher, Da Bird.

8 9 CAT PROOFING YOUR HOME

By now you have bought the essentials from our shopping list & recommendations. You’ve also decided which room will be kitty’s “safe room” to start out in your home. There’s only one step left before letting your cat or kitten have the run of your home— Cat‑proofing your home to save wear and tear on the household as well as the new arrival. Please remember just because you last cat didn’t get into trouble this doesn’t mean your new kitten or young cat won’t. The following steps will help create a safe environment for your new family member. Remember, kittens are much more active and inquisitive than adult cats, so these steps are extremely important if you are adopting kittens or teenagers.

The Cat‑Proofing Process

Get Down Low Put on some old clothes and get down on the floor at a cat’s level. You’ll spot tempting hazards you may never have noticed from your human point of view.

Breakables Put away any breakable treasures that are remotely accessible to your cat. Remember that adult cats can, and will, jump onto shelves and counters, so put yourself into the mind of the cat, and look around, and remove anything you value. Cats will want to get into absolutely everything, some are even adept at opening cupboards and doors, especially french door handles.

Other Destroyables Kittens like to climb on furniture and drapes. Consider covering cloth furniture with some kind of cover, or even with a blanket or bedspread. Drapes should be confined to off‑limit rooms, or at the least, tied up and out of reach for the time being. Trimming nails will help protect your furniture.

Poisonous Plants Kittens and adult cats love to play with plants. Unfortunately, part of their play involves biting and tasting. Many types of common household plants are poisonous to cats, so you will either need to get rid of those, or hang them safely out of reach. A list of plants poisonous to cats is listed towards the end of this adoption package. Remember flower arrangements can be just as deadly as house plants.

Windows Cats and kittens love to sit and look out windows watching birds, insects and other activity, they will do it for hours. Check to be sure all screens are securely attached if you open the window and doors. Some cats have been known to tear holes in screens and escape so be sure your screens are strong and if in doubt, rescreen any open window or door screens with pet-proof screening material available at most hardware stores and screen shops.

10 Hanging Blinds Cords Kittens, and many cats will love to bat around cords from hanging blinds, but they can also get tangled up in them with disastrous consequences. Either anchor the cords firmly or tie them up out of reach. Better yet get cordless blinds, these are the safest for cats and children.

Electrical and phone cords Kittens’ insatiable curiosity often leads them to one of the most dangerously temptable objects in the house: electric cords. Computers with their numerous tempting cords are a particular hazard. Invest in a cord management system or tape the cords together and fasten them out of reach. Those that don’t manage easily can be sprayed with Bitter Apple, a very unpleasant tasting, but harmless substance. Do the same with long phone cords. Also be aware of dangling cords—they look like fun for a kitten to play with, until a hot iron comes crashing down.

Pest Poisons Remove any ant or roach traps from accessible areas. These small plastic traps resemble cat toys and will be very tempting for kitty to bat around but they are poisonous.

Hot Liquids Remember the curiosity of kittens and young cats, do not leave hot liquids in a cup or tall container unattended. In less than a second they can stick their paws into it or knock it over onto themselves.

Small Hazards Rubber bands, paper clips, thumb tacks, broken balloons, Christmas tree tinsel and other small articles are irresistible play objects for kittens, but pose a choking hazard. Put them away in containers, and leave the tinsel off the tree this year. A good rule of thumb is to put away anything that you would not want a toddler to get his hands on‑‑the same reasoning goes for your kitten or cat.

Appliances Cats and kittens love to climb into everything—including dishwashers and front loading washers and dryers. Look carefully before you start the machine to be sure you have no “extra” items. I once almost “dried” my cat, she hopped in while my back was turned, thank goodness I looked!

The Garage It’s probably better to label the garage “off‑limits” to your cat. Too many poisonous/hazardous materials are stored there. Anti‑freeze is particularly poisonous and is attractive to animals because of its sweet taste. Make sure that any spilled anti‑freeze is cleaned up immediately, and the garage floor thoroughly washed. Store all caustic and poisonous materials in a closed cabinet.

This is far from an exhaustive list of cat-proofing ideas. No home can be completely free of all hazards, but if you go from room to room and use common sense, you should be able to minimize the risks to your new kitty.

11 INTRODUCING YOUR NEW CAT TO YOUR PETS

If your new cat is going to be a companion to your existing cat(s) or dog(s), you should expect it to take some time before they are used to each other. It can be a matter of days, weeks or even months, depending on the personalities of the animals involved. While there is no foolproof way to make animals become friends, we advise that you play it safe and introduce the new kitty to your house slowly in order to prevent fearful and aggressive problems from developing. Here are some suggestions on how best to introduce your new kitty to your pets.

Introducing a New Cat to Other Cats You’ll want to avoid any interactions between the cats that result in either fearful or aggressive behavior. If these responses are allowed to become habit, they can be difficult to change. It’s better to introduce the animals to each other so gradually that neither cat becomes afraid or aggressive.

Upon coming home, the new cat should be isolated from the other cats in the house. The first step to integrating the cats is to get them used to each other’s scent while avoiding eye contact. • You can put the new cat’s carrier (empty, door open) in the room with your existing cats and let them discover it on their own. • Another tip is to put something on either side of a closed door that will attract the cats, such as food or a catnip toy. This will help start things out right by associating something enjoyable with each other’s presence. • You may also introduce scent by switching sleeping blankets between the new cat and the resident cats, or by putting the other cat’s blanket underneath the food dishes. Once the new cat is using its box and eating regularly while confined, let it have free time in the house while confining the other cats. This switch provides another way for the cats to experience each other’s scent without a face-to-face meeting. It also allows the newcomer to become familiar with its new surroundings without being frightened by other animals.

The next step is to allow your cats to see each other without full body contact. Try setting up a baby gate or other barrier in a doorway between the cats, or firmly prop the door open a couple inches with doorstops (taking care that neither cat can fit its head through the opening and that the door is secure and won’t slam shut). You’ll want to supervise this at first until the cats are relatively calm in each other’s presence, with a minimum of hissing, posturing and growling.

Once they are ready, you can let the cats meet each other. Take your existing cats into a different part of your home, and then leave the door open to the newcomer’s room. Let the newcomer explore and encounter your existing cat on his own terms. You should expect some hissing, spitting and growling. Be prepared with a glass of water. If a fight breaks out, do NOT interfere directly. Instead, throw water on the cats, clap your hands and shout, bang a pot with a spoon or throw a blanket over each cat separately, wrapping the blanket around the cat before picking him up. Separate the cats until they have calmed down. It may be best to leave the cats separated when you are not home until you are sure they are getting along well. To be safe, you should trim their nails prior to the first face-to-face encounter.

Even after you have allowed them to meet, you should continue to feed them separately and maintain separate litter boxes until they are comfortable sharing space together. Successful introductions require time and patience. Don’t expect things to be perfect overnight. Based on our years of introducing cats if you take it slowly, rarely is there a fight. After a few weeks they should start to be friends. 12 Introducing a New Cat to a Resident Dog Do NOT assume that your dog will like your new cat just because he loved your old cat. This is a different animal to him and they have to get to know each other.

Dogs and cats that have not experienced each other will require some extra time to become accustomed to each other. Dogs usually want to chase and play with cats, and cats are usually afraid and defensive. You can use any of the techniques described in “Introducing a new cat to other cats.” In addition: If your dog does not already know the commands “sit,” “down,” “come,” and “stay,” you should begin working on them. Little tidbits of food increase your dog’s motivation to perform, which will be necessary in the presence of such a strong distraction as a new cat. Even if your dog already knows the commands, work with obeying commands in return for a tidbit.

After the animals have become comfortable eating on either side of the door, and have been exposed to each other’s scents as described in the previous section, you can attempt a face-to-face Put your dog’s leash on, and command him to either “sit” or “down” and “stay,” using food tidbits. Have another family member enter the room and quietly sit down with the cat on his or her lap. The cat should also be offered some special tidbits.

• At first, the cat and dog should be on OPPOSITE sides of the room. Repeat this step several times until both the cat and dog are tolerating each other without fear, aggression, or other uncontrollable behavior. • Next, move the animals a little closer together, with the dog still on a leash and the cat gently held in a lap. If the cat does not like to be held, you can use a wire crate or carrier instead. If the dog gets up from its “stay” position, it should be firmly repositioned, and praised and rewarded for obeying the “stay” command. If the cat becomes frightened, increase the distance between the animals and progress more slowly. Eventually, the animals should be brought close enough together to allow them to investigate each other. Although your dog must be taught that chasing or being rough with the cat is unacceptable behavior, your dog must also be taught how to behave appropriately, and be rewarded for doing so (e.g. sitting, coming when called, or lying down in return for a tidbit). If your dog is always punished whenever the cat is around, and never has “good things” happen in the cat’s presence, your dog may redirect aggression toward the cat.

You may want to keep your dog on a leash and with you when the cat is free in the house during the introduction process. Be sure that your cat has an escape route, and a place to hide. Keep the dog and cat separated when you aren’t home until you are certain they will both be safe.

Eventually we hope all of your pets will become good friends.

Precautions: Dogs like to eat cat food because it is very high in protein, and therefore very tasty. Keep cat food out of the dog’s reach (in a closet, on a high shelf, etc.). Some dogs like to eat cat feces; although there are no health hazards to the dog from this habit, it is usually distasteful to the owners, especially if the dog kisses them in the face afterwards. The best solution to this is to place the litter box where the dog cannot access it such as behind a baby gate or in a closet with the door anchored open (from both sides) just wide enough for the cat. Another solution is a litter box furniture cover that the dog can’t get his head into; see examples on the litter box page. Companies also make furniture specifically for feeding cats that dogs can’t get into. Do a search on the internet and be sure the entry hole is big enough if you have a big cat. Always feed your dog alone. Cats should not eat as it may cause dietary deficiencies.

13 Cats Need Wet Food By Beth Taylor and Steve Brown The natural diet of cats is meat. Cats are meat eaters, designed to thrive on a wide variety of small prey animals, eaten fresh and whole. Their natural diet is high in water and protein, with a moderate amount of fat, and a very low percentage of . Dry cat food is high in grain.

A diet of dry food is high in carbohydrate, between 35 and 50 percent. "Diet" and "Lite" foods have even more. Dry food contains almost no water. Dry cat food is convenient to feed, and relatively inexpensive, but it's the opposite of the natu- ral diet of cats. Cats have no dietary need for any carbohydrate. Cats need to get water from their food.

Cats are descended from feline desert dwellers. They couldn't stroll over to the watering hole for a drink, and cat tongues are not very well designed for drinking water. Cats are adapted to obtain most of their water from their prey, which contains more than 75 percent water. Cats who eat dry food consume only half the water they need, compared to those that eat wet food, and live in a state of chronic dehydration. The common health problems of cats are related to diet.

There is increasing evidence, published in peer-reviewed veterinary journals, that many of the health problems seen in cats are the result of diets inappropriate for a feline. Dry, grain-based foods fed to a meat eater, over time, result in both chronic and life-threatening diseases, like these: Obesity: Since cats are designed for a high-protein, moderate-fat, low-carbohydrate diet, it is not surprising that obesity is often seen in cats. Diet cat foods have even more carbohydrate than regular ones, and less fat, so they depart even further from the natural diet of cats, making it harder for them to lose weight. Diabetes: The high level of carbohydrate in dry cat food contributes directly to the development of diabetes in cats. Blood sugar levels rise when cats eat dry food. When this is an ongoing event, -producing cells "downregulate," which leads to diabetes. Kidney Disease: Kidney disease is the most common cause of death for cats. The kidneys require an abundant supply of water to do their job. Without water to process the by-products of the digestion process, the kidneys are overloaded, become damaged over time and unable to do their job. Bladder Problems: Cystitis, bladder irritation and bladder/kidney stone formation are also strongly connected to dehydration. If the body is well hydrated, these problems are minimized. Inflammatory Bowel Syndrome and Disease: These problems are often characterized by vomiting and diar- rhea and are very common in cats. Cats who eat a species-appropriate diet rarely suffer from these issues. Dental disease: Dry food has a high sugar (carbohydrate) content, which has been shown to cause dental decay. For cats to derive any supposed abrasive benefit from dry foods to be seen, they would have to actually chew their dry food. Since dry food shatters in their mouths and they then swallow the pieces, there's no abrasive ac- tion from chewing something hard. 14 Cats who eat dry food often have very severe dental problems. Many factors contribute to dental health, but it is clear that a high-carbohydrate diet is not beneficial! The Solution: An Appropriate Diet for the Species

It's simple: Cats need to eat a diet that is high in protein and water, with a moderate amount of fat, and almost no carbohydrate. Most of the health problems we've discussed here are either radically improved or eliminated by eating a diet that meets the needs of a -- one which closely resembles the nutritional balance provided by a mouse. For example, many now treat diabetes in cats with a meat-based canned diet. We'd like to go a step further, and prevent these diseases. Feed your cat a meat-based diet!

We suggest you buy canned food that is designed to be complete, or complete frozen diets that have very little vegetable content. No grain sources should be listed in the ingredient panel. There are grain-free canned cat foods that have some vegetables in them, but vegetables should not be a major component (read our article on how to compute these percentages, at this web address: http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/ar- chive/2010/01/06/whats-the-best-food-for-your-pet.aspx). "All meat" diets are just that, and they will not meet your cat's nutritional needs alone. Make the switch successful!

It sounds simple to just switch your cat's food. After all, meat tastes better than dry food, but your cat may disagree. Dry foods are designed to be tasty, and many cats are addicted to them. Often, cats are not open to the idea of variety, especially if they have only been fed one food (as we have been advised by companies for decades). Creativity and patience may be needed to switch your cat. Cats will starve themselves, and they are not good candidates for the tough love approach. Some very serious conditions can occur if cats do not eat for an extended period, especially if they are overweight. A slow switch will prevent problems. Here are some ideas to help you along:

Establish regular feeding times and put food away in between meals. For many reasons, it's best for their bod- ies not to have food available all the time. If you have dogs, you know what to do with leftovers! Feed multiple cats separately. Consider dry food to be a snack only, not left out all the time. Leave out just a few pieces as a treat. Consider this the equivalent of "kitty junk food." Offer bits of other kinds of fresh food that you are eating. They may be refused, but one day, they won't. Your goal is to get your cat to consider things as food other than dry, crunchy items. Cat whiskers are very sensitive. If food is served in a bowl that interferes with whiskers, it could be enough to keep the cat from considering the food. A flat dish works well. Cats generally prefer their food between room temperature and body temperature. The dry food cats are used to eating is designed to be very smelly. Warming the food releases the flavors and fragrances. Cats choose food by smell, and wet food is a lot less fragrant than a commercial food they have been eating. This is often the reason that the second half of a can of food is refused: The first time it was room temperature! Trickery has been known to work with cats. Put the food on your plate, or hide it in a location cats know to be forbidden. When in doubt, creativity helps!

15 Additions and Considerations

Add sardines for good , or use . A meal of sardines once a week or one small sardine a day adds omega-3 fatty acids in their best form -- whole food. Because cats can't use plant sources of omega-3s at all, animal sources are necessary. If sardines aren't appealing to you, use a fresh, high-quality omega-3 fish oil supplemented with E. Digestive and a glandular supplement are good additions to replace the parts of prey animals we nor- mally don't feed cats: The contents and smaller glands. We think that the optimum diet for cats is a raw meat-based diet. However, if you feed your cat a canned diet that approximates the balance of his or her natural diet, their diet will be fully hydrated, and you will be much closer to providing your cat with optimum nutrition. If you choose to feed a meat-based canned diet, find a way to simulate components lost in cooking or processing. One way to add live food is with "cat grass," very popular with cats. It's often available in the produce section at the grocery store, or you can grow your own from a kit. This addition often takes the burden off the house plants! Dry "green stuff" is another choice ("Barley Cat" is one product). It takes a very small quantity of a dry product to do the job. Too much can make PH too alkaline, and cause some of the problems you're trying to avoid! Tiny pinches of dry green stuff go a long way. Buy organic seeds on internet and plant in planter. For cats, good diet can make the difference between "Old Age" at 12 and 23. Cats who eat dry food are often old and feel quite ill at 9 or 10. Healthy cats can live a very long time, and that's what we hope for your feline carnivore! Contact Steve or Beth for more information at [email protected]. Dr. Mercola's Comment:

There is indeed a special relationship that exists between pets and their owners that goes far beyond the shar- ing of a home together. Our happy-go-lucky, four-legged friends also provide us with constant unconditional love, devotion, friendship and something else that might not be at the forefront of most people's minds -- health benefits. If you have a dog, I highly recommend you read their excellent book, See Spot Live Longer. Using philosophies similar to my own regarding the importance of nutrition, See Spot Live Longer presents solid evidence that a good diet is just as important for dogs as it is for us. When fed a proper raw diet appropriate for their body, hun- dreds of people, including veterinarians, have witnessed vast health improvements in their dogs. Authors Steve Brown and Beth Taylor, both pet health and nutrition experts, provide an all-inclusive argument for feeding your dog a naturally balanced raw meat, bone and vegetable-based diet that provides much higher quality nutrition than any dry or canned dog or cat food. By convincingly covering all the bases, readers will: • Review case studies of dogs and cats with chronic illness that improved after fed a healthy diet of fresh food. • Dispel the myths that are sabotaging your dog's health. • Learn how the ancestral dog's diet compares to the modern diet dogs eat today. • Realize the canine anatomical digest process to better understand why and when our animals are at risk from different types of food and potential toxins. • Find out why dry and canned dog foods may be harming your dog. • Find out what real fresh foods will protect your dog from cancer and other disease. • Discover the importance of exercise and how keeping your dog fit will add years to its life. • Learn practical, cost-effective solutions to feeding your dog better for a longer and healthier life.

16 Related Articles (definitely worth reading):

Another Great Reason to Throw Out that Dry Cat Food - UC Davis study (2012) - • http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/05/25/wet-cat-food-diet. aspx More Evidence Real Meat is the Right Food for Your Cat - • http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/03/16/protein-in-real-meat- are-better-for-cats.aspx Sardines and Eggs: Natural, Affordable Omega-3 Treats for Your Pet - • http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2005/07/28/pet-omega.aspx Real Food for Healthy Dogs and Cats—Do You Know What’s in Your Pet’s Food? - • http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/real-food-for-healthy-dogs-and-cats- cookbook.aspx Best Pet Foods for your Dog and Cat - • http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2011/05/10/my-top-3-pet-food- picks-from-an-upscale-boutique-shop.aspx .

This article is reprinted from Mercola.com, the world’s #1 most visited and trusted natural/alternative health website. You can find this article on the internet at: http://www.selfgrowth.com/articles/Cats_Need_Wet_Food_12085.html.

17 18 19 20 21 Cats Need Water

Text published in Eating and Nutrition, on the Use the Right Type of Water Bowl internet in 2012. Photos are of rescued and now Cats need to have access to fresh water at all adopted cats. times. To ensure that your cat is drinking enough water, use a water bowl that is an appropriate Every life process relies on water. The body of size for your cat and maintain a consistent the cat is made up of level of water in it. Don’t use about 70% water. The a huge bowl filled with water natural prey that cats as a way of only having to fill would catch also contain it once a week because the approximately that same water will get stale, dirty and amount of water. Many contaminated. Use a bowl that people are under the will hold a day’s water. Every false assumption that day, wash the bowl with soapy cats don’t need water water, thoroughly rinse it and or that they’re afraid of refill with fresh water. Don’t just it. The cat’s ancestors refill the water bowl without came from a desert washing it because the water environment and relied will taste bad and can become on getting adequate contaminated. amounts of water in the food they ate. Gravity-feed water* and food bowls* are also very Modern day cats eat lots popular with pet parents. The of dry food* which has one problem with the water very low water content container though is that the (about 10%) and so they water can get stale. If you do need an additional water decide to use a gravity-feed supply in the form of a dispenser, you still need to separate water bowl. regularly change the water Cats who consume wet food get much of the water they need within and completely clean that food (canned food contains approximately the dispenser and 78% water) but also still greatly benefit from a reservoir. separate water supply. A cat eating a diet of canned and dry food also must have a separate If you aren’t sure water supply. which type of bowl is best, offer a few If you feed dry food to your cat don’t try to different shapes and increase the water content by wetting the food sizes so your cat will because it often makes it much less palatable to have the choice. the cat. Instead, talk to your veterinarian about adding some canned food into the diet. There Keep Water Separate From Food are ways to gradually transition your cat to canned food. (See article, Cat’s Need Wet Food.) To avoid contamination from food, don’t use a double feeder that has food on one side and Rescue’s Note: Eating ONLY dry food is NOT good for your Rescue’s Note: We do NOT recommend these feeders. cat. It fact many vets believe it’s the cause of most health problems. 22 water on the other. It’s too easy for food particles Outdoor Cats to drop into the water. Additionally, many cats Weather can play a role in the increase or don’t like having their food and water close decrease in water consumption. Your cat may together. Some cats won’t drink water if it’s too drink more in hot weather. With outdoor cats, close to their food source. make sure there is always a fresh supply of water always available and that you monitor and clean Monitor Your Cat’s Water Intake the bowl daily. In hot weather, place the bowl in the shade. In cold weather, make sure the water Another benefit of filling the water bowl each doesn’t freeze. day is that it enables you to better monitor how much or how little water your cat is drinking. If you notice a sudden increase or decrease, it can Multiple Locations indicate a potential health issue. For example, In multicat environments it’s a good idea to have an increase in water consumption may be a more than one water source (as well as more sign of renal failure or diabetes. The sooner than one feeding station). Position water bowls you’re alerted to the change in water intake, the around the house so that one cat doesn’t have sooner your cat will be diagnosed and receive to cross another cat’s area in order to get to appropriate veterinary care. the water. This is especially important in homes where there is any tension between the cats. You may also notice a change in the urine output of your cat. Any change in litter box habits or the Pet Water Fountains amount or frequency of your cat’s urination could indicate a potential medical problem. Consult If you’re concerned that your your veterinarian if you notice a change. If your cat may not be drinking enough cat does get a diagnosis of something such as water, try installing a pet water feline lower urinary tract disease, renal failure or fountain. There are multiple diabetes, she’ll need to drink adequate amounts types available. Some look of water to help flush toxins. Since she’ll be like water fountains and some drinking more water you may have to increase create a bubbling action. Your cat may have a the number of water bowls or refill them more preference. Since many cats like playing with the often. water droplets at the kitchen or bathroom faucet, offer the water fountain as a better alternative. No Milk Some fountains have flow regulators so you can adjust the water speed. Just as with a regular Milk is not a replacement for water bowl, make sure you water. If you offer your cat keep the fountain clean. If milk instead of water she will you’re concerned about become dehydrated. Many cats kitty making a mess with are also lactose intolerant after water all over the floor, weaning so you’ll potentially you can buy placemats end up with kitty having with raised edges that will diarrhea which can also lead to keep any spills contained. dehydration. Goat milk is good for cats, if you want to give If you don’t mind that your them a treat.) cat is on the counter you can also install a motion- activated faucet so the water will flow whenever kitty is near it. 23 Other Ways to Entice Your Cat to Drink Water

Cats love to play and since so many like to play with water, try dropping an ice cube in the water bowl. Your cat may enjoy batting the cube around and in the process, begin repeatedly licking her wet paw. You can also freeze a little low- chicken broth in plastic ice cube trays and then periodically drop one into the bowl. If you do this, make sure you also have an additional bowl available with just plain water so your cat will have a choice.

Water Preferences

Your cat may not care whether she drinks tap water or bottled water but if she’s not drinking enough water, provide bowls with different types of water until you discover her preference.

http://www.catbehaviorassociates.com/category/health/cat-eating-and-nutrition/

Pam Johnson-Bennett, CCBC, PCBC is a Certified Cat Behavior Consultant and best-selling author of 8 books. Her ground-breaking “Think Like a Cat” approach to cat behavior has been featured and profiled in numerous magazines and television shows.

24 Biting and Scratching

When cats become overly excited during play with Provide your cat with acceptable ways to expend humans, they usually bite and start to scratch. her energy and act out her predatory nature. Tie a feather or piece of crumpled paper to a length of This is the same action two kittens or a mama cat string and run around the house dragging it behind. This gives kitty a moving target to chase and attack.

My favorite cat toy is one called “Da Bird”. It is feathers tied on to a small

fishingit moves pole through with the a fishingair it twirls lure like so whena real bird. I guarantee you, your cat will feel like and kitten will display when playing. Kittens learn a mighty hunter! (Do from their mama or siblings not to bite hard or a search at YouTube. scratch since it hurts them when mama bites back. com for Da Bird and I have seen Mama cats do this to teach their kittens you will see lots of happy cats playing with them.) not to bite. Kittens says, “ouch!” and stops biting. Let your cat pounce on and play with her own If your kitty didn’t learn this from her mama toys instead of your hands or feet. Do or siblings you need to teach her. NOT allow it when they are tiny kittens or they will continue to do it as an adult. If Whenever your cat gets her claws out, stop you want to let her play with your hands the play session. This often causes the cat to then buy special gloves so the kitten does retract her claws. If she does so, praise the cat not associate her opponent with an arm and resume playing. If not, sternly say, “No”. At this stage, the cat will not understand any . what you are saying, but she will soon learn. or hand. You can find a variety of these in The play session will not resume until kitty Train your cat to climb her scratching puts her claws away. If she does not, just post by tossing toys on the top of it. Train walk away and ignore her. her to fetch. Sit across the room or at the top of stairs and toss a toy, when your Whenever the cat bites too hard, let her know kitty picks it up, call her to you and give her a treat that she is hurting you by shouting, “OUCH!” (reward) for retrieving it. Give your cat active and Walk away and end the play session immediately. regular play sessions and she will be less likely Cats, especially kittens, love to play and they love to to bite and scratch you. play with their owners. Ending a play session is an extremely effective punishment. The cat soon learns that it is her own rough behavior that causes an abrupt end of an enjoyable play session.

NEVER SPANK OR HIT YOUR CAT, this only make her fear you, she doesn’t learn a different behavior.

25 How to Manage Your Cat and its Claws Your cat will be much happier with its claws, reasons that are a complete mystery to anybody and will want to use them. Fortunately, there are who doesn’t have the mind of a cat. some simple steps in claw management that you can take to ensure that you and your cat remain 2. Teach your cat which surfaces are not happy. Effective claw management involves three acceptable to scratch basic principles: Cats can be fairly particular about what they scratch. If you train your cat early to use the 1. Give your cat something good to scratch. appropriate surfaces and avoid the inappropriate ones (furniture, legs, etc.), they will learn and be Scratching posts are the foundation of a much less inclined to stray from their good habits. good claw management strategy. Every house The best way to teach a cat not to scratch should have at least one vertical scratching post, something is by using a combination of positive and the more the merrier. The post should be at and negative reinforcement Negative least 28 inches tall in reinforcement can include a squirt with a order for your cat to spray bottle filled with water, saying “no!” in a do a full stretch. It loud, disapproving way, shaking a can filled should have a large with pebbles or pennies, and even temporarily base so it doesn’t tip isolating the cat in a bathroom or other such over easily. The space if it misbehaves. Positive surface should reinforcement includes stroking, talking in a provided resistance to calm, approving voice, giving treats and claws being pulled otherwise showering the cat with positive through - the most attention. Be consistent with your common surfaces are reinforcement - you won’t teach your cat sisal rope, tight- anything by sending mixed messages. weave carpet or bear You can also protect furniture by making wood. A mixture of it unappealing as a scratching surface - by textures is best. temporarily cover the furniture with a sheet, From the cat’s slipcover or double-sticky tape. perspective, there’s nothing quite like a floor-to-ceiling, multi- 3. Keep your cat’s nails trimmed or capped tiered cat tree, as it serves as a Regularly clipping your cat’s nails will scratching post, greatly reduce its ability to cause damage with playground and bed. its claws, and if done properly will not hurt They are expensive, the cat. It is best to use a trimmer designed but they last a lot for cat’s claws rather than a scissors or human longer than smaller nail clipper. posts and will make both your cat and you much If none of these are effective, you can always more happy. On the other end of the economical put SoftPaws on your cat’s front nails. SoftPaws spectrum, horizontal cardboard scratch boxes are are small vinyl caps that are glued onto a cat’s excellent scratching toys as well. Your best bet claws and serve as dull sheaths. They last for is a combination of all of the above. Try using four-six weeks, are easy to use and replace and catnip to mark acceptable scratching surfaces, don’t hurt the cat. They also come in different or scratch it yourself to show how it’s done. colors. SoftPaws are sold at veterinarians’ and Location is also important. Cats like to also over-the-counter at many pet stores. If you scratch when they make their grand entrance into buy them at your vet, bring your cat and have a room, so it is a good idea to place scratching them put on so you can see how it is done. surfaces near doors. If your cat is ignoring a perfectly good scratching post, move it a couple Adapted from Gary Loewenthal, “Why Cats Need of feet - this can make all the difference, for Claws,”THE WHOLE CAT JOURNAL, September 2002.

26 27 TRIMMING YOUR CAT’S CLAWS

If possible start training your cat to have her claws trimmed as a kitten. Gently stroke your cat's paws often, getting her used to having her paws held before you attempt trimming. Be sure to reward your cat with a special food treat—one that she receives only during claw trimming or some other grooming procedure—during or immediately after trimming. The best time to trim your cat's claws is when she is relaxed or sleepy. Never try to give a pedicure right after a stressful experience or an energetic round of play.

Your cat should be resting comfortably on your lap, the floor, or a table. Hold a paw in one hand and press a toe pad gently to extend the claw. The “quick” is the pink tissue on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding. You want to remove the sharp tip below the quick & away from the toe. If your cat becomes impatient, take a break and try again later. Even if you can clip only a claw or two a day, eventually you'll complete the task. Because cats do little damage with their rear claws and do a good job of keeping them trim themselves—by chewing them—many cat owners never clip the rear claws. Others trim their cats' rear claws three or four times a year or have them done by their veterinarian or a professional groomer.

Gently press the cat's toe pads to reveal sharp claws in need of a trim. Notice the pink tissue (the quick) on the inside of the claw. Avoid the quick when you trim the claw; cutting into it will cause pain and bleeding. Remove the sharp tip below the quick (away from the toe), clipping about halfway between the end of the quick and the tip of claw. In the beginning clip just the very tip until you are more comfortable cutting a little more. If you accidentally clip into the quick, don't panic. The claw may bleed for a moment, but it will usually stop very quickly. Soothe your cat by speaking softly to her and stroking her head. If the bleeding hasn't stopped after a minute or so, touch a styptic pencil to the claw end or pat on styptic powder or corn starch to help staunch the bleeding. How often you need to clip your cat's claws depends somewhat on how much of the tip you remove, but usually a clipping every two weeks or even once a month will suffice. If your cat absolutely refuses to allow you to clip its claws, get help from your veterinarian or a professional groomer.

Special claw trimmers (two types are shown) are available from veterinarians or pet supply stores, but sharp nail clippers for humans also work. Keep a styptic (astringent) pencil or powder on hand in case you accidentally clip into the quick and bleeding hasn't stopped within a couple of minutes.

Reprinted from: http://www.declawing.com/htmls/trimming.htm

28 Important Information About Declawing

increasingly debilitating as the cat ages. What is Declawing? Cats also use their front claws as their Declawing is an irreversible surgical primary defense. Even indoor cats need them, procedure that involves amputating the last joint as they are only one accident away from being of a cat’s toes. It is much more invasive than outside and completely defenseless - and unable simply removing a nail, as it is commonly (and to climb to safety. mistakenly) perceived. A cat’s claw is not like a human fingernail. It is part of the last bone (distal phalanx) in a cat’s Complications and Behavior toe. In order to declaw a cat, the entire phalanx As declawing is such an invasive procedure, must be amputated - including the bone, nerve, it has a relatively high rate of complication. joint capsule, collateral ligatments and tendons. Typical complications from the amputation are The procedure is excruciating pain, Dorsal Ligaments extremely painful and Line of amputation damage to the radial debilitating; it is nerve, infection, comparable to cutting off hemorrhage, bone a person’s finger at the last Ungual Crest chips that prevent joint of each finger. healing, painful regrowth of deformed claw inside of the paw A Cat and its Claws (and invisible to the Cats need their claws eye), lameness due to for a multitude of reasons. wound infection or Third Phalanx Ungual Process They use them for Flexor Tendon footpad laceration, balance, exercising, and abscesses, and stretching the muscles in their legs, back, abnormal growth of severed nerve ends which can shoulders and paws. Cats walk on their toes, and cause long-term pain. not on the pads of their feet. By changing the And these are only the physical shape of a cat’s feet, declawing not only complications. Declawing can also cause severe drastically alters a cat’s balance, but it causes them psychological and behavioral complications. to meet the ground at an unnatural angle, resulting Many cats who were lively and friendly prior to in back and muscle pain which becomes the operation become withdrawn and introverted

After Declawing Unguicular Crest Extensor Tendons Claw covering unguicular process Middle phalanx Tendon of deep digital flexor

Flexor tubercle

Distal phalanx Amputated Distal Digital Pad Unguicular Process Phalanx

29 Countries in which declawing cats is either illegal or considered extremely inhumane and only performed under extreme circumstances.

England Northern Ireland Scotland Ireland Wales Denmark Italy France Slovenia Portugal Belgium Spain Norway

The city of West Hollywood has banned declawing, and the City Council is considering a similar measure. after the procedure. Others become nervous and (furniture) that much more important to a person fearful as a reaction to losing their primary than the physical and emotional well being of their defense, or even overly aggressive, compensating animal companion? Many countries have said for the lack of claws by using their only remaining no and outlawed the procedure, and as public means of defense - their teeth. Some declawed awareness of the impacts of declawing grow, more cats’ feet become so tender that they associate and more cities in America are doing or their new pain with the litterbox, resulting in a considering doing the same. life-long adversion to using the box. Others mark their territory with urine since they can no longer mark with their claws. Many declawed cats that are dumped in animal shelters are turned in due to these kinds of behavioral problems that developed only after their owner declawed them. In addition, declawing can so traumatize a cat that the stress results in other secondary health and behavioral problems, including a weakened immune system, chronic diarrhea and irritable bowel syndrome.

Ethical and Humane Considerations The physical and psychological impacts of declawing are staggering enough. But a loving pet owner should also consider the ethical and humane issues raised by declawing. Is it Please, don’t declaw! appropriate to painfully amputate an essential part of a cat’s “catness” in order to fit the owner’s lifestyle and convenience? Are inanimate objects

30 Declawing: Another Veterinarian’s Perspective

are euthanized. They may also bite more, and By: Michael W. Fox, D.Sc., become defensive when handled because their Ph.D., B.Vet.Med., M.R.C.V.S. paws are hurting and infected. Say No! To De-clawing Cats I strongly advise all prospective cat owners, and those people with cats who are Many veterinarians routinely de- contemplating having the entire first digit— claw young cats. It’s part of the package when not simply trim the claw—removed surgically they come in to be spayed/neutered. Many from their cats’ paws—never to have this cats suffer as a consequence. The operation operation performed on their felines. entails more than simply removing the claws, () under general anesthesia. It Cats need their claws to be cats, and the entails removal of the first digit (digitectomy). routine surgical amputation of all their first It’s like you having your toes and fingers digits is considered unthinkable in the UK and removed at the first joint, i.e. a many other countries where people love and phalangectomy. respect their cats. They know that properly handled and socialized cats quickly learn not Cats are very dexterous, and this operation to scratch people, and will learn to enjoy using essentially eliminates their dexterity, greatly a scratch post and not destroy upholstered reducing their behavioral repertoire when furniture. it comes to grasping and holding. It also hampers their ability to groom and scratch According to (www. themselves normally. Their ability and self- pawproject.org), de-clawing has become confidence when it comes to climbing and extremely common in the US and Canada in general agility are similarly crippled. Their the past three decades. Before that time, it first line of defense—their retractable claws– was rarely performed. In most countries, de- is eliminated, which could make some cats clawing is considered unethical and is not more anxious and defensive. performed by veterinarians.

De-clawed cats tend to walk abnormally back De-clawing is illegal in many countries, on their heels rather than on their entire pads including Italy, Spain, England, Scotland, because of the chronic pain at the end of their Wales, Austria, Croatia, Malta, , Belgium, severed fingers and toes. They often develop Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, chronic arthritis and as the front toe pads Finland, Netherlands, France, Germany, shrink, chronic bone infections are common. Greece, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Norway, Portugal, Romania, Sweden, Switzerland, Many cats find it painful to use the litter box, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Slovenia, Brazil, develop a conditioned aversion to using the Turkey and New Zealand. box, and become un-housebroken. This is why Rescue’s Note: What do vets in other parts of the world many de-clawed cats are put up for adoption or know that our vets ignore?

31 Part of being a cat is to have claws. Out of These problems are compounded by the respect for the nature of cats and their basic chronic pain that many de-clawed cats suffer, behavioral requirements in the confined and show lameness and abnormal vertebral domestic environment, caring and responsible and postural mis-alignments due to paw- cat owners effectively train their cats to use pad pain from abnormal weight distribution scratch-posts, scratch-boards and carpeted on certain pads, and also from chronic “condos” rather than resort to routine inflammation, post-surgical infection, chronic declawing, that amounts to a mutilation for arthritis and osteomyelitis, and contractions of convenience. the flexor tendons.

FURTHER OBSERVATIONS Such physical and psychological crippling of cats has become an accepted cultural norm. From the perspectives of naturalistic But such perverse defilement of the cat’s philosophy and ethics, as defined in Buddhism nature, her ethos, such mutilation, rationalized and Toaism, the cat’s ritualistic claw- disfigurement as a necessary convenience, is a scratching to mark the territorial domain is a sad reflection of our humanity, or lack thereof. vital yogic practice that helps cats relax and Both must be addressed, and all veterinary discharge pent up energies. Ethologically, colleges censored where de-clawing is taught cats’ need to scratch suitable vertical and to students with the expectation that this semi-vertical objects with their claw-marks would be a routine source of income because and paw-pad pheromones is motivated by the of public demand, and if vets were not around desire for safety and security in a regularly to do it properly, many people would resort to marked, familiar territory. Scratch-post sites using wire-cutters. are tied to self-identity and recognition: self- awareness. CONCLUSIONS I have observed feral and free-roaming cats, Performing phalangectomies on cats as a and indoor cats all engaging in scratch-post- routine preventive measure, just incase they marking behavior, and to take this ritual away might scratch people or damage furniture, from them by de-clawing is to rob them both is a service of convenience to cat owners physically and psychologically of their first that I consider professionally unethical for line of defense in a potentially hostile world; veterinarians to offer and perform as a routine and of their ability to even be able to mark procedure on all cats that come through their their territories effectively. So many begin doors. It is nothing less than a mutilation to urine-spray-mark, or show behavioral that takes away from cats an integral part of changes associated with increased fear and what makes them cats---a form of physical vulnerability. deprivation with often profound behavioral and psychological ramifications, the risks of Cats are fastidious self-groomers, and which far outweigh the benefits to uninformed they need their claws to be able to groom cat owners and lovers. themselves properly. Unable to groom themselves, cats become more irritable, tense, Many veterinarians argue that it is a life- depressed. saving procedure because otherwise cats who might damage furniture or scratch their owners 32 are often euthanized if they are not de-clawed. I see this as engaging in self-serving emotional blackmail, financial interests not withstanding.

As a profession, are we not giving a mixed message to the public in advocating companion animal health and welfare on the one hand, and not abandoning such practices that are considered unethical by veterinarians and their clients in many other countries?

Article basis for letter to Dr. Fox’s colleagues, published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, Feb. 15, 2006, pages 503-504. Michael W. Fox, D.Sc., Ph.D., B.Vet.Med., M.R.C.V.S. Visit his website for more information: www.twobitdog.com/DrFox

This is a cat after surgery for declawing. It’s how they all feel and that is why some vets keep the cat for several days to administer pain medicines so the owners don’t see how much pain their cat is in.

Rescue’s Note: Our experience is that cat’s are NOT dumped for scratching but in- stead because of some of the problems declawing creates such as not using the litter box and biting. Companies now make products like Soft Paws and can be bought in almost every pet store or Vets office. These are soft plastic caps that can be put on nails if all training fails to stop your cat from scratching. Our experience is cat owners don’t invest in things the cats like to scratch but get some cheap flimsy scratching post and expect the cat to use it, so the cat turns to the couch that is sturdy or a wicker hamper with a surface they like.

33 BEATING BOREDOM Tips on keeping your cat happy and engaged

There is ample evidence that cats who spend their lives entirely indoors live much longer than their outdoor-­‐only counterparts. But keeping an indoor cat happy as well as healthy means providing more than just good nutrition and regular -­‐ veterinary care you must also enrich your kitty's environment. Eliciting a cat's natural behaviors with hunting and foraging games can do wonders for your companion's well-­‐being. With a little creativity, you can keep your cat stimulated and interested, even in a small apartment and on a limited budget. And the good news is that enrichment research has shown that toys are removed and then returned after several weeks regain much of their novelty; extend your enrichment budget by rotating your cat's toys regularly. Get started with a few of these feline friendly Foraging activities, Fun but begin slowly and be sure to get a thumbs up from kitty's veterinarian. -­‐ Separate each day's food rations into small batches. Place the clusters around the house and then toss a few small treats in random directions. Not only will this encourage active foraging, Pleasurable it'll Puzzles also keep kitty from scarfing down her food too quickly. -­‐ Toss a few treats into Rubbemaid a square bottle and leave it on the floor with the lid off for a great beginner puzzle. Any plastic container with a secure lid can become hanging puzzle. just cut two or three slots around the bottom outer edge of the container and place a few treats in the center. String a cord through the lid and hang this puzzle over a doorknob. Scent Searching Once your cat gets the hang of it, you can encourage exercise by raising it higher. -­‐ Use old socks as washable scent baits. Just mark the sock with a dab of perfume, lotion, vanilla extract or even peanut butter, or place a pinch of any aromatic spice inside, then rub it over a slice of lunchmeat to pick up the scent. Scatter the socks throughout house and your cat will be on the prowl for hours, delighted by the variety of scents. If you're pressed for time, simply mark a scent trail with a bit of cheese and then hide the cheese at end Bird of the Watching trail. Catnip is another scent you can use as bait. -­‐ Attach a bird feeder outside your cat's favorite window. Hungry birds will provide hours of entertainment. Don't place feeders too close to the ground as it leaves birds vulnerable to enemy attacks, and be sure to keep the window closed-­‐excited cats can push right Mouse through Trap screens. -­‐ Leave a -­‐ ping pong ball in the bathtub and watch as your cat makes it sail around the Crafty curves Cardboard during her hunt for the elusive orb. -­‐ Use cardboard boxes as beds, dens, tunnels and mazes, Costco fruit and vegetable boxes are sturdy and free. Make a "busy box" by attaching small toys to short lengths of cord and suspending them from the ceiling of a large box. Cut window flaps in the den at various heights. Add a "Tiger Tug," a miniature version of game popular with both tigers and both chimps. Feed ends of a length of parachute cord into the box through small holes. Tie a toy or large knot on each end. When the cat tugs at one end, the other end mysteriously comes to life. For multicat households, run the ends into separate Cat TV boxes. – Bu y DVDs aimed at cats and also DVDs on birds, like the Audubon Society makes, they entertain cats for hours. 34 35 36 Reprint: Catnip Newsletter 37 38 Solving Litter Box Problems, Part 1 One of the more frequent problems that cat owners others don’t mind at all. Some cats don’t like liners or face at one time or another is that of a cat refusing to scented litter. In short, you will need to be prepared use the litter box, even after using it for years in the to experiment and slowly rule things out. past. This behavior may nearly always be corrected Studies done by veterinary schools have shown that with proper attention to the cat’s health and environ- most cats prefer fine, smooth unscented or barely ment. scented litter in a clean box. If you are bringing a new The first thing to do is to rule out a physical problem cat into the home we recommend using a fine unscent- by taking your cat to a veterinarian for a physical ed litter in a large box without a liner. Liners can tear examination. Common medical causes for inappropri- with the cats claws. ate elimination is a urinary tract infection or crystals Also our vets recommend cleaning the box every week in the urine, either of which can make urination very with a mild detergent, not strong bleach, and filling painful. Cats often associate this pain with the litter with clean litter. Once vet once said to me, you clean box and begin to avoid it. Left untreated, a urinary your bathroom every week don’t you, well you cats tract infection or blockage from crystals can cause wants the same level or cleanliness. A dirty litter box permanent damage or be fatal, so do NOT delay in is another reason cats mess outside the box. seeking medical attention. Anytime your cat messes outside the box, clean the Once you’ve ruled out medical issues, you will need to soiled area promptly and thoroughly (as otherwise the turn your attention to the cat’s environment. Cats may cat may continue using the area as a de facto bath- stop using the litter box because of a radical change in room) and use positive reinforcement to re-introduce their surroundings, such as the introduction of a new your cat to the litter box. Find urine stains with a fluo- pet, moving homes, rearranging furniture, new person rescent black light, available at hardware and pet sup- in household, remodeling, or even a new baby. In the ply stores. The stains will glow under the black light. best case scenario, you will plan ahead and ease the Once you locate a stain, clean it with an enzymatic transition. For instance, if you move, introduce your cleaner made especially for pet odors, available at pet cat to the new home the same way you would bring an supply stores. Don’t use ammonia or other strong- entirely new animal in—start in a confined, isolated smelling household cleaners. These will encourage space and gradually let the cat explore his or her new your cat to re-mark in that area. surroundings. If you remodel your house, keep the cat isolated from the area and only when it is complete You may also want to isolate the cat to retrain—more should you slowly re-introduce him to the area. For on that on the last page of Litter Box Issues, Part 2. more details see chapter on Introducing New Kitty to Do not yell at or strike your cat if he or she does not Your Home. use the litter box. Litter box problems are almost al- Cats may also stop using the litter box because they ways temporary and reversible, but a cat can develop are dissatisfied with the type of box or type of litter litter box aversion if it associates elimination with you use. A change in the box or litter can cause them punishment. While you aren’t expected to celebrate if to stop using it; try and stay consistent for the life of your cats pees on your sofa, it will only make matters the cat. If you do want to change do it gradually by worse if you punish the cat. adding just a little of the new litter into the box and Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, over time add more and more until you have made even if it’s only seconds later. If you are lucky enough the transition. If this doesn’t work, go back to the first to catch her in the cat, interrupt by making a startling litter. noise but be careful not to scare her. Immediately Some cats even like to have two boxes—one­ for take her to where the litter box is located and set her each function. I have been told this especially true on the floor in front of it. If she wanders over to the of Persian cats. Some cats like covered boxes, oth- litter box, wait and praise her after she eliminates in ers like open ones. Some don’t want to share a box, the box. If she takes off in another direction, she may want privacy, so watch from afar until she goes back

39 to the litter box and eliminates, then praise her when Surface Preferences she does. If she doesn’t go to it, consider isolating her All animals develop preferences for a particular sur- in the bathroom with the litter box for a time. face on which they like to eliminate. These preferenc- Steps to Avoid Litter Box Aversion es may be established early in life, but they may also change for reasons that we don’t always understand. Your cat may have decided that the litter box is an Your cat may have a surface preference if she con- unpleasant place to eliminate if the box is not clean sistently eliminates on a particular texture, such as a enough for her, if she has been started by a noise soft-textured surface (carpet, bedding or clothing) or a while using the box, if she has been “ambushed” while slick-textured surface (such as tile, bathtubs or sinks). in the box either by another cat, a child, a dog, or by you, or if she associates elimination with unpleasant- • If your cat is eliminating on soft surfaces, try ness. using a high quality, scoopable litter that is soft and fine, preferably unscented. Petco’s Pet Gold is like • Keep the litter box extremely clean. Scoop at this. Put a soft rug under the litter box. least once a day, twice is better. Change the litter completely every week and wash the box with a • If your cat is eliminating on slick, smooth surfac- mild detergent. Cats have an extremely sensitive es, try putting just a very thin layer of litter at one sense of smell so if you can smell the box, from the end of the box, leaving the other end bare and put cat’s perspective it must really reek. the box on a hard floor. You might also use a large plastic storage container with a smooth bottom for • You should have at least one litter box for every the litter box. two cats. If your home is two story we recommend one upstairs and one downstairs. • If your cat has a history of being outdoors, add some soil to the litter box. • Add a new box in a different location than the old one and use a different type of litter in the new box. You can also try making the area where she has been Because your cat has decided that her old litter box inappropriately eliminating aversive to her by cover- is unpleasant, you’ll want to make the new one dif- ing it with an upside-down carpet runner or mat or ferent enough that she doesn’t simply apply the old, aluminum foil or by placing citrus-scented cotton balls negative associations to the new box. over the area. • Sometimes it’s the location of the box that is a There is also a litter on the market called Dr. Elsey’s problem. Make sure the litter box isn’t near an ap- Cat Attract that is guaranteed or your money back to pliance that makes noise or other wise is in a noisy attract cats to the box. Most cats love it. area. Some cats will not use a box in the laundry room if the washer or dryer are running, they want a more quiet location. • If ambushing is a problem, try to create more than one exit from the litter box inclosure or area, so that if the “ambusher” is waiting by one exit your cat always has an escape route.

If your cat is having litter box problems, don’t worry—you are not alone. The internet is full of good information and suggests on what to do. One of my favorite is The Litter Box From Your Cat’s Point of View by Lisa A. Pierson, DVM at this link: http://www.catinfo.org/?link=litterbox This is ex- tremely thorough, I wish I had room to reprint the entire web article in this adoption package.

40 41 42 43 Reprinted from, “From the Cat’s Point of View” author Gwen Bohnenkamp

44 MOVING WITH YOUR CAT­

It doesn’t matter if you are moving across town or across the country – you need to do a little planning to make it easy for you and your kitties.

Before the move: • Get out the carriers cats will travel in. • One cat per carrier, unless small kittens, this applies even if they are best friends. • NO TEMPORARY CARDBOARD carriers. • Carrier must be roomy enough for cat to lie down comfortably (unless traveling by plane then “fit under seat” rule applies). • If you need to get another carrier, try the local Traveling in car: thrift stores, often only cost for $5–10.00. • Don’t be surprised if you cat doesn’t eat or • Leave carriers open on the floor, for a week or drink water while car is moving or even when you more, with door secured so it can’t close. stop for short breaks, I have transported cats for 12 hours and most adult cats don’t eat or want to use • Put small bed/pad inside, if they like treats litter box while moving. If transporting kittens put add them too. This is to get them comfortable in small pan with litter. with carriers. • If outside temperatures of over 70 degrees • Do not fill carrier with big cat bed, better to -- when you stop for gas pull into bay with shade, have space for cat to move around. open ALL of the windows so breeze gets in. Use • Get a foam pad for carrier that absorbs pee or drive through eateries, don’t leave cats unattended. small training pads for bottom of carriers. • If you stop for the night – bring cats inside • Buy screw-on water bowl, that won’t take up in carriers, place them in the bathroom with door much room in carrier, best are found in bird closed with food, water and small litterbox. I like section of pet stores. to use a grain-based litter like Swheat or World’s Day movers (or friends helping you pack) come: Best Cat Litter that leaves no clay. Even their most • Lock cats in one room with sign on door, “DO outgoing cat might hide under the bed in a strange NOT OPEN, Scared Cats Inside”. More than place. one cat has gotten out and lost when strangers Traveling by air: are inside moving boxes and furniture. • Before traveling the cat needs a Health Moving day: Certificate from you vet. Do not wait until the day • Do not sedate your cat even if flying or before to get it. traveling by car. • Get a halter for your cat since you have to • Feed cats normally in the morning, early take the cat out at security points & a good quality enough so hopefully they will use the litterbox. airline approved carrier. Arrive early at airport. • Put cats in one room with their carriers so they At the new home: aren’t hiding when you want to leave. • Even if no one is in the house put cats in one • Put cats INTO carriers and then into car just room and get them use to the new home like you before you are ready to drive off. did when you first brought them to your home. Cats have marked a new home because they are scared. Note:Do not fill water bowl until cats in car then using bottle poor in water through grate until it’s • Let them settle in that room for a week or two 1/2 full. and CERTAINLY the day movers come with your things keep them securely confined to one room. 45 Care for your pets for life, their life Take the Time to Make Arrangements for Your Pets

Every day we get phone calls or see wonderful Additionally take the time to write out animals dropped off at “Animal Shelters” when information about each pet. Simple information a human has you carry in your head should be written down passed away or so the person or organization caring for your gone into a nursing pet will make it as comfortable as possible. The home and left back of the Pet Guardian Form has a section to their beloved pets record this information. behind. No formal pet guardian Pet’s name, age, health issues, spay/neutered, was established, name and phone number of vet, diet and leaving the pets personality are all important. If the pet was homeless. adopted from a rescue organization include their information and ask them to contact the Many people think their relatives will do “right group for assistance. thing” and take good care of their companion animals. Sadly this is often not the case. Often Our pets give us so much love, we can do the the companion animal is confused at loosing same for them after we are gone. For the love of its loved one and home. The friend or relative your pets, care for them for life, their life. doesn’t know how to properly introduce the new animal to their household so they think it won’t work out and decide to take it to a shelter. Many people think they are doing the right thing for their friend or relative’s pet not realizing, or not wanting to know, the animal will most likely be euthanized. Most of these pets are seniors and confused by the change, they are considered unadoptable and euthanized as soon as allowed by law, which is usually a few days. Please make sure your pet is cared for in the event of your demise. Take the time to complete the attached Pet Guardian Form for ALL of your pets. Talk to the person’s mentioned on the We don’t expect you to be buried form, consider leaving funds or life insurance with your pet as this gentleman was to cover your pet’s lifetime care. This is a small but please be sure they are taken kindness you can do that will guarantee your care of. companion animals a happy long life. California allows for animal trusts, consider such an option. Please review any forms you complete with your Will and Trust Attorney. 46 PET GUARDIAN

In the event of my severe illness or death, please implement the following instructions.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS I have made arrangements with the individual(s) listed with each pet to care for him/her. Please contact them at once, as my pet(s) will need to be cared for immediately. If they are unable or unwilling to accept my animals, my Executor shall select an appropriate person to accept the animals and treat them as their companion animals. If no such person(s) can be found then I direct my Executor to contact a 501c3 non-profit animal rescue organization with a stellar reputation to re-home my animals. I give my animals to such person(s) or organization. Under NO circumstances shall my pet(s) be turned into a kill shelter. Under NO circumstances shall my pet(s) be euthanized unless it is found to be suffering from an incurable illness and this is verified by an exam and in writing by my veterinarian, or is he/she is unavailable by two other licensed veterinarians. I direct my Executor to give $______from my estate to each person who accepts my animals, and I request (but do not direct) that these funds be used for the care of my animals. If it is an organization that takes my animals I direct my Executor to give $______from my estate for each animal. These funds may come from any designated insurance policy and from the rest of my estate.

I have an insurance policy, which I designate to be used for the care of my pets: Yes No Insurance Company: ______Tel # ______Policy # ______

Policy is located Home in ______Safety Deposit Box Other ______The Executor of my will: Name ______Phone ______Address ______City/State/Zip ______

VETERINARY INFORMATION Veterinarian Name: Vet's Phone #: ______Vet Address: ______Veterinarian Name: Vet's Phone #: ______Vet Address: ______

Pets visit the veterinarian? Annually As Needed Both

PETS RECORD IN MY HOME, are located: ______

My choice of non-profit animal rescue group(s): ______

______Print Name Signature Date

WITTNESSES: ______Print Name Signature Date ______Print Name Signature Date This document is provided as a courtesy from Southern Counties Rescue, it & all other documents affecting your estate should be discussed with your will/trust attorney. 47 Pet is a Cat/Dog/Other: Name ______Birth date ______Sex? ____ Spay/neuter? ______Description (size, color, breed) ______Personality, likes and dislikes ______

______

Health Issues ______Medicine? ______

______Current on shots? ______If cat, declawed? ______

What does it eat? (Brand, flavors, wet, dry) ______

Feeding Frequency: Morning Night Both Leave dry food out all day Other ______

Is this pet use to being indoors or outdoors or both? Indoors Outdoors Both

If allowed outside Anytime Daytime only Under supervision On balcony/patio only On leash Fenced yard

Where does it sleep at night? Anywhere in house Garage My Bedroom Outside Other ______The ideal home for this pet is: ______Name/Org has agreed to care for this pet: Name ______Address ______Email ______Home Tel # ______Work # ______Cell # ______

Adopted from Rescue Group: ______Tel # ______contact them for assistance. Under NO circumstances shall this pet be turned into a kill shelter or euthanized (except as noted in General Instructions).

Pet is a Cat/Dog/Other: Name ______Birth date ______Sex? ____ Spay/neuter? ______Description (size, color, breed) ______Personality, likes and dislikes ______

______

Health Issues ______Medicine? ______

______Current on shots? ______If cat, declawed? ______

What does it eat? (Brand, flavors, wet, dry) ______

Feeding Frequency: Morning Night Both Leave dry food out all day Other ______

Is this pet use to being indoors or outdoors or both? Indoors Outdoors Both

If allowed outside Anytime Daytime only Under supervision On balcony/patio only On leash Fenced yard

Where does it sleep at night? Anywhere in house Garage My Bedroom Outside Other ______The ideal home for this pet is: ______Name/Org has agreed to care for this pet: Name ______Address ______Email ______Home Tel # ______Work # ______Cell # ______Adopted from Rescue Group: ______Tel # ______contact them for assistance. Under NO circumstances shall this pet be turned into a kill shelter or euthanized (except as noted in General Instructions).

(Before completing, make copies of this page for additional pets) Page ______of ______Pet Information Pages This document is provided as a courtesy from Southern Counties Rescue, it and all other documents affecting your estate should be discussed with your attorney. 48

WHAT YOUR CAT MISSES BY NOT GOING OUTDOORS

Cats are curious animals, and we all know the saying, “Curiosity Killed the Cat.” Many people think their cat will not be content if it can’t go outside – that just isn’t so. Cats stare out of doors and windows because they are curious and like to observe. These are the things your cat will miss by not going outside – §. Won’t be killed by a coyote in the daytime while napping on your patio. §. Won’t be hit by a car when kitty decides to cross the street. §. Won’t be killed by a hawk or owl that can pick up an adult cat. §. Won’t be poisoned accidentally or intentionally by everyday chemicals used in gardens, cleaning and cars. §. Won’t be dumped in the country or at an animal shelter by a neighbor who doesn’t appreciate your cat using his garden as a bathroom. §. Won’t roam too far and become lost. §. Won’t be infested with fleas and ticks or worms. §. Won’t catch a deadly disease like Feline Leukemia. §. Won’t have huge vet bills due to attacks or illnesses caught from other animals. §. Won’t spray because he/she thinks he has to protect his territory inside and out. §. Won’t be stolen. §. Won’t be killed or tortured by a cruel person who hates cats.

We all want our cats to have a fulfilling life full of adventures, good food, sunny spots to nap in and a lot of love. We also want them to live a long, healthy life. Cats that stay strictly indoors can have it all—favorite sunny spots to nap safely, all kinds of adventures with furry catnip mice and other creative toys and they will live to enjoy old age. In Southern California due to car traffic and wild animals indoor/outdoor cats are killed or die from disease often before their third birthday while indoor cats live 12-20 years and longer. I think your cat would rather live a long life than die young. If you really think your cat will not be content unless it can go outdoors, then create a safe outdoor space using cat proof fencing or coyote prevention roll bars. You can find companies on the internet that provide the tools you need to make a fenced in yard or patio cat safe. Remember you wouldn’t let your three year old child run outside into danger even though he might want to, so don’t let your cat.

49 Poisonous Plants

Aloe Vera Fiddle-leaf Fig Peace Lily Amaryllis Florida Beauty Peach (wilting leaves and pits) Apple (seeds) Foxglove Pencil Cactus Apple Leaf Croton Fruit Salad Plant Plumosa Fern Apricot (pit) Poinsettia (low toxicity) Asparagus Fern Geranium Poison Ivy Autumn Crocus German Ivy Poison Oak Azalea Giant Dumb Cane Pothos Glacier Ivy Precatory Bean Baby's Breath Gold Dust Dracaena Primrose Bird of Paradise Golden Pothos Branching Ivy Red Emerald Buckeye Hahn's Self-Branching Ivy Red Princess Buddhist Pine Heartland Philodendron Red-Margined Dracaena Hurricane Plant Rhododendron Caladium Ribbon Plant Calla Lily Indian Rubber Plant Castor Bean Saddle Leaf Philodendron Ceriman Janet Craig Dracaena Sago Palm Charming Dieffenbachia Japanese Show Lily Satin Pothos Cherry (seeds and wilting Jerusalem Cherry Schefflera leaves) Silver Pothos Chinese Evergreen Kalanchoe Spotted Dumb Cane Cineraria String of Pearls Clematis Lacy Tree Philodendron Striped Dracaena Cordatum Lily of the Valley Sweetheart Ivy Corn Plant Swiss Cheese Plant Cornstalk Plant Madagascar Dragon Tree Croton Marble Queen Taro Vine Cuban Laurel Marijuana Tiger Lily Cutleaf Philodendron Mexican Breadfruit Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem Cycads Miniature Croton and leaves) Cyclamen Mistletoe Tree Philodendron Morning Glory Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia Daffodil Mother-in-Law's Tongue Devil's Ivy Weeping Fig Dieffenbachia Narcissus Dracaena Palm Needlepoint Ivy Yew Dragon Tree Nephytis Dumb Cane Nightshade

Easter Lily Oleander Note that all sorts of Elaine Onion lilies are extremely Elephant Ears Oriental Lily toxic to cats. Emerald Feather English Ivy Eucalyptus

50 51 52 Finding your Lost CaT Call Rescue Immediately If Your Cat Gets Out! Oh no! You kitty got outside and you can’t find her. WALK AROUND – Once you have thoroughly Don’t despair. There are some constructive steps you searched your own area, start checking with the neigh- can take to help her get home again. bors. Knock on doors and if home ask to look in their First – take action immediately; don’t wait for a yards, garages, basements, etc. I had a cat that every few days to see if she will find her way home. Cats time he got out would hide in my neighbor’s garage. do not “run away” or “stray.” They investigate new That was the first place I looked. places and find themselves trapped, they get lost if Start walking if you can while it is daylight but go out driven away from their territory, they are spirited off again after dark when it’s quiet in your neighborhood. by circumstances beyond their control, they become Do walk in the daytime to talk to people that wouldn’t ill or injured and creep away to a quiet dark place. be out at night. Cats rarely voluntarily leave their home, even if badly If you can, enlist a friend to walk with you but be sure treated. It is imperative when a cat turns up missing he/she is the quiet type. Carry a powerful flashlight at to begin an aggressive search immediately. Your cat’s all times you will need it to look under cars and into life could depend on it. hiding places. SEARCH HOUSE & IMMEDIATE AREA --- Cats Talk to everybody you meet as you hand out the flyers, are excellent hiders. Look first in your knock on doors. People getting into cars, walking by, immediate area including checking the postman, everyone! Kids are great at finding pets the house carefully unless someone so be sure to enlist the neighborhood children. saw your cat get out. Look in every nook and cranny. Don’t assume that Ask not only if they have seen your cat but also if they your cat would never crawl into some tiny space or heard or saw anything unusual in the neighborhood. that they can’t possibly fit (they will and do!). The Take a note pad with you so you can write down what more scared they are the deeper they will hide. Use a they tell you. Sometimes utility workers can have powerful flashlight even in the daytime. manholes open or animal services might have been in the area picking up strays. Inside the home, check all appliances – under, behind and inside - washing machines, clothes dryers, stoves, Sometimes cats climb into moving vans or parked cars refrigerators, dishwashers and water heaters. Cats and are not found immediately. Was such a vehicle in LOVE boxes so check them all. Move everything your area at the time of disappearance? from under beds, in closets, bookcases, shelves, draw- Carry something that smells like your cat and you and ers, cabinets… some good smelly cat (or whatever her favorite Listen for sounds of distress. Cats explore weird flavor of wet food). spaces and can be attracted to dark, normally inacces- Call your cat’s name and she might come out from sible places and even to vertical spaces. That’s why hiding. Make any other noise that your cat is familiar you look behind and under appliances and in spaces with. It’s also important to stop periodically, be quiet, you just don’t think they could possibly fit. If you have and listen for your cat to make a noise in reply. been remodeling or making changes, had doors open to places like the attic, check these spaces remember I found a kitty that got out in a totally strange neigh- cats are great explorers. borhood the night before. He was across the street and I just walked around after it was dark and quiet, call- Thoroughly check your own yards-front,­ back and ing his name and carrying some food he liked. After sides in case the cat has been injured or gotten stuck a little bit I heard him answer me from under a car. It somewhere. Look under bushes, under cars, crawl still took over 2 hrs to get him to come out from hid- spaces under the house, inside any shed or garage, ing. Be patient. drain pipes, culvert pipes…Don’t forget to look up too – cats do climb so check roofs, overhangs, openings to When out looking, carry your cell phone, so you can attics, trees, gutters… call someone if you need help without leaving where your cat is once you spot her. If you do pick her up, 53 expect her to bolt, hold her firmly by the scruff at the More cats are reunited with their guardians because back of the neck while supporting her with other arm. of flyers than anything else, so do one right away and Best to wait until someone can come back with a car- don’t be embarrassed to put it everywhere. rier or carry a soft carrier with you IF your cat is not LOCAL VETERINARIAN OFFICES – Call ALL of afraid of a carrier. the local veterinarian offices during the day and after SMELLS – Remember cat’s sense of smell is 3000 6pm call the emergency vet clinics too. Send them all times ours so put some things outside that smell like flyers. Ask if any cat even similar in description to your cat was brought to their offices for treatment. If it even remotely resembles your cat, visit the office in person or get more details as to where the animal is now. De- scriptions rarely match, ages are often guessed wrong so you must go see the cat to be sure. ASK FOR HELP – Don’t be embarrassed to contact any Cat Rescue near you and ask for help. Rescue has a network throughout Southern California. We can also post on the Internet through different animal rescue related groups/lists. you and your cat. Cats bedding, worn t-shirts and If you are computer savvy, go on line and look for socks, favorite wet and dry food, even used litter. various websites that post lost animals. Even if you FLYER -- One of the best things you can do is make hate computers use the local free services of the a flyer and put it into EVERYONE’s mailbox in a newspapers, and weekly sale periodicals to describe several block radius of your home. Put a good descrip- you missing kitty. Offer a reward. Check the lost and tion on the flyer and photo and the note“PLEASE found sections of all newspapers. hold on to this flyer in case you see my kitty in the VISIT SHELTERS – Today many city and county next few weeks or months”. Offer a reward (don’t shelters have websites. Call and get the web address or state the amount). Include general address where lost do a search on line in a search engine like Goggle. (not exact home address), contact phone numbers and e-mail address. Most city and County Shelters have a website with animal photos of cats coming into shelter. They guess- If you make it in color even the better. People LOOK timate the age and can be way off so just look at the at color flyers more of- photos. ten than black and white ones, even ½ page size. Visit all the shelters near you, ask to see ALL of the Post it in businesses like cats, many are not in public view if considered frac- laundromats, pet stores, tious (many of these are friendly scared cats) or sick. video stores, cleaners, Leave flyers; do NOT expect to get a call from the vets offices but again the shelter if a cat that looks like yours comes in, EVEN most important ones will if they say they will call. You have to go back every 3 be in everyone’s mail- days (stray cats are held for 4 days in California so to box for several blocks be safe go every 3 days). If you are outside of Califor- from where your cat nia, check the local shelter guidelines. disappeared. I know of a ACCIDENTS HAPPEN – It’s very sad but cats do couple that got their cat get killed on streets. If you want to find out if this back after 3 months due happened to your cat you must check with the cor- to flyer in a mailbox. rect state or city department. The road crews for your local and state department of transportation (DOT) usually pick up dead animals from the roadside and

54 city streets. In some cases Animal Control does this as hide. Also if your car breaks down or you are in a car well. You have to call around and find out which agen- accident you can’t leave your cat in the vehicle. cies do this service in your area. Be sure to find them So please, NEVER take your cat to the vet or any- all. This is a sad, sad task & some people don’t want where else unless it is secured in a sturdy carrier or to know but others do. Some say they have to check on a leash. The boxes you buy at vets and pet stores every possibility or it haunts them not knowing. For are for one-time emergency trips. I had a cat break out this reason we included this information. of one in my car in less that 5 minutes and this was a KEEP LOOKING – Don’t give up in the first 2 friendly cat! In emergency situations use a pillowcase. weeks, cats have been reunited after being gone for Always keep a collar on your indoor months. Once you kitty is home pick up any flyers you cat with a current phone numbers. I also add “Medi- posted in public places or businesses and give your cat cal Covered” so someone will not hesitate to take my a great big hug!!. cat to the vet if injured. Use only a safety collar, one words of caution -- It’s sad but true, that stretches or breaks away so cat can some people prey upon others misfortune get loose if tangled in something. DO NOT put a collar on a kitten; they do not NEVER respond to a “found” pet contact alone. weigh enough to make the collar break Take a friend or two along with you. Arrange to away. meet in a public place. Microchip your cat or if already NEVER invite the person to your home unless microchipped be sure to keep the database you happen to know them well. current, after your cat is missing is not the time to Beware of money scams. A common one is a person think about updating it. There are several major micro- calls you claiming to be a truck driver. He says he chipping companies in the US that offer 24/7 coverage. picked up your cat and is out of the city now. He heard Use the one most common in your area. Some of them about your lost cat and says he will return your cat if are AVID, HomeAgain, 24-PetWatch...You can find you will pay to ship her home. This person does not out more about microchipping from your local animal have your cat; he is only trying to take your money. If shelters, humane societies, websites, rescue groups you want to be sure ask him to take a photo and text or and vets. mail it to you (give a work address or P.O. Box). Take some good, detailed photos of Never agree to give or mail money to anyone without your cat and keep them some place handy. Make them having your cat in your arms. Anyone asking you to close-ups similar to what you would take of an object do this is trying to steal from you. you are insuring. This is insurance for your cat. Take Don’t wander around looking for your pet alone if you the head and the body and any interesting marks. For can help it, either during the day or at night. Always instance I once knew a cat with a perfect heart under bring a friend or relative. This is especially important her chin so her owner had a photo of that heart! in unfamiliar neighborhoods. Train you cat to come --This may sound WAYS to protect your cat crazy but train your cat to come to an “Acme Dog Whistle”. These are whistles that animals can hear a Always transport Your cat in a cat lot further than we can. They have a high pitch that is carrier, not a box but a plastic or soft-sided car- out of our hearing range. To train your cat, blow the rier. I cringe every time someone says whistle each time before you feed her or give her a to me, “my cat hates to go in a carrier treat. She will then be more likely so I just carry her in my arms.” There to come to you or answer you if she are a million things that can scare your hears the whistle when lost. cat and it can bolt from your arms, There are several articles, books dash into traffic or go under a fence and products for sale on the internet and hide in a totally strange place. Your cat will NOT for training cats. come to you when it is frightened in a strange place, with strange smells and traffic noise around, it will 55 Cat Health 101: When to Visit the Vet It is a good practice to bring you cat to the vet- the following checklist: is she eating and/or drinking erinarian for an annual checkup. Even if your regularly? Is she using the litter box regularly, with cat appears outwardly healthy, annual visits normal-appearing urine and feces? Is she listless (a possible sign of fever), hissing or growling (a possible are important to monitor your cat’s eyes, teeth sign of pain)? If there are problems in any of these and organs. areas, especially unusual hiding behavior, you should Cats can hide their problems well and early detection seek veterinary attention. and treatment of illnesses can make a huge difference Unusual hair loss: Shedding warrants a trip to the in the success of the treatment as well as its cost. vet if it is excessive, resulting in bald spots, or if it is You should also bring your cat in for regular blood accompanied by skin irritation, excessive grooming panels once she hits seven years of age. These can or other signs of illness. The presence of bald patches help detect the onset of organ failure, thyroid prob- may indicate ringworm or mange, both of which are lems and other medical issues and get you treating easily treatable and unlikely to spread if caught early them right away, ultimately prolonging the length and and treated aggressively. quality of your cat’s life. Dental Disease: Drooling, open-mouthed breathing Of course, there are times when a cat’s behavior or and bad breath can all be signs of dental disease, and appearance tells you that she needs medical attention bacterial infections in the mouth can spread to other right away. vital organs, causing irreversible damage. These prob- lems can be prevented by requesting regular dental Going Outside the Box: When cats don’t use the litter exams from your vet, who should show you how to box, they almost always are trying to communicate do home exams as well. Also, your cat should receive that there is something wrong. The problem may be regular dental cleanings. behavioral (i.e., stress, another animal they don’t like, etc.), but it may also be medical. Excessive thirst (Polydipsia, or PD): This condition generally leads to Polyuria (excessive urination). If • Inappropriate urination: This could be a sign your cat is drinking and/or urinating too frequently, of cystitis (bladder inflammation), a urinary tract it maybe necessary to have her under go a physical infection or bladder or kidney stones. A dry food exam with a blood panel to measure organ function. diet is a leading cause of these conditions. If your cat repeatedly enters the litter box without urinating Frequent vomiting: While a little vomiting is not or cries in pain when urinating, seek immediate uncommon and not necessarily a cause of concern, medical attention, as this could be due to a ruptured excessive vomiting, especially in kittens and older bladder or a severe case of crystals. cats, may warrant a vet trip, particularly when there are multiple episodes within a few hours. If there are • Inappropriate defecation: This could be a sign other signs of illness present, go see the vet. And be of colitis (inflammation of the colon) or a number especially alert to the presence of blood, parasites or of other bowel disorders, especially if there is bile (indicated by a bright yellow color). blooding the stool. Not eating: An ongoing lack IF Your Cat Doesn’t Eat for TWO Unusual behavior: When an of interest of food can in- Days Take Him to the Vet! older cat yowls loudly and paces dicate a number of medical at night, it is possible she is problems and warrants a visit to the vet, especially for suffering from either (also indicated kittens or older cats that are more adversely affected by excessive thirst) or feline cognitive dysfunction, by loss of . An overweight cat that goes longer similar to Alzheimer’s disease. An asthmatic cat may than 48 hours without eating is in danger of develop- stand with her elbows out or breathe slowly and delib- ing Hepatitis Lepidus’s (Fatty Liver Disease), which erately, while a cat with an upper respiratory infection can be fatal. will often breathe with her mouth open. These are just a few of the behavioral indicators that a vet visit may Hiding: Hiding is an instinctive response to illness or be in order. any perceived threat. If your kitty is hiding, consider 56 HOW TO SAVE MONEY AT THE VET’S OFFICE The absolutely best way to save money on a vet visit is Develop a good line of communications with your to go sooner rather than later...What I mean is DON’T vet. If you don’t feel comfortable discussing different WAIT until you cat is wobbling and almost falling treatments with your current vet maybe it’s time to over to go to the vet. If you do you will spend $100s shop around and find one you can talk to. (if not $1000s) more in hospitalization, IV fluids & Another way to save money is to DO THE ANNUAL antibiotics, especially if you wait until the weekend. checkup but don’t say yes to every vaccine the vet Rule of thumb -- if a cat doesn’t eat or drink water has to offer. Indoor cats do not need, FeLV, FIV, FIP for two days take him to the vet no later than the (these two aren’t even recommended but many vets morning of 3rd day. If the cat doesn’t use the litter do them) & (unless required by your city). After box or strains to pee -- take him to the vet!! Both of the first FVRCP booster, cats need one every 3 years. these can result in serious health issues such as a Do say yes to a blood panel when you first get your blockage that needs surgery since you waited to long kitty maybe at year one as a base. But then turn them to treat with antibiotics. down until at least 3 years later, then every 3 years You know your cat, any unusual behavior usually unless your cat is sick. If it’s sick a blood panel is a requires a vet visit. Once you get there you can save good starting point to see what is happening to the money by questioning the vet. Don’t feel guilty if you liver, kidney... don’t say “yes” to every test available. Sadly, some illnesses the vet knows is fatal but they You have to learn when to say “no” to the proposed still suggest running tests and spending $100s of dol- tests, lab work, etc. Some vets, like many doctors to- lars knowing that there is no viable treatment. Ask the day want to run every test available because they now vet to be honest with you. A good example of this is have the tools to do it but you as the cat owner pay for some cancers, the treatment can run into the $1000s these tests. but it rarely extends the life by 6 months. Other can- cers are treatable and will cost less if detected early. I always question (politely) the Vet, is the treatment going to be any different as a result of the test? ...And My last suggestion on how to save money at the vets if so how? What will the test tell us anything that you is to feed good quality food. Cats that eat quality meat don’t already know? protein food, no corn, no , no meat-by-prod- ucts don’t get fat and don’t develop all the problems For instance, ringworm is a fungus very common in associated with it. Feed wet food. the ground and picked up by kittens and puppies. Any good vet cat tell by looking at the skin abrasion with In Summary: a black light that it’s ringworm. Most vets will say, Choose a vet early, as soon as you adopt a pet. lets do a scraping and see what it tells us. The culture takes two weeks to grow to tell you the cat has ring- Be sure it’s one you can talk to and has fair prices. worm, meanwhile had you started the treatment based Don’t wait until you have an emergency to find a vet. on the vets observations your cat wold already be 1/2 way to recovering. Even vets that want to do a culture Don’t wait until cat is really sick to go to the vet. will usually start the cat on the internal medicine and Don’t be afraid to question tests and treatment. topical cream. I always skip the scraping and culture Do get an annual checkup for your pet. and just start the treatment, saving me lab costs. Do feed good quality food. Another way to save money is to question the antibiot- ics prescribed if it’s new to you. For example, Covenia is a newer antibiotic that is one injection and lasts for two weeks. It’s great for treating feral cats but it’s expensive and is not recommended for many illnesses. One vet I use charges $70 for a Covenia shot vs. $23 for Baytril, a much more effective antibiotic in many cases that is administered once a day. 57 VET RECOMMENDATIONS

Alicia Pet Care Center Moulton Animal Hospital 25800 Jeronimo Road Suite 100 Dr. Kimberly Mission Viejo CA 27261 - I La Paz Road. Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-768-1313 949-831-7297 Referred by an SCR adopter Trinity Pet Hospital 24861 Alicia Pkwy Suite D Lake Forest Animal Clinic Laguna Hills CA Dr. Melissa Byers 949-768-1314 24301 Muirlands, Ste P, Lake Forest, CA (Muirlands & Ridge Route) Ladera Ranch Animal Hospital 949-837-7660 Dr. Sumpter, Dr. Mauna Referred by an SCR adopter 949-347-6803 1101 A-7 Corporate Drive Alisos Animal Hospital Ladera Ranch, CA. 92694 David Bahou, DVM www.laderavet.vetsuite.com 22902 Los Alisos Blvd. #D, Mission Viejo, CA 92691 open 7 days a week 949-768-8308 Referred by an SCR adopter OC Veterinary Medical Center Dr. Jeffery Horn All About Cats Health & Wellness Center 200 S Tustin St, Ste. B Dr. Birgit Ankone DVM Orange, CA 92866-2341 23661 La Palma Avenue 714-633-3323 Yorba Linda CA 92887 open 7 days a week 714-692-8228, 714-692-1820 [email protected] Arbor Animal Hospital http://www.all-about-cats.com/ Dr. Daryl Mabley D.V.M. Referred by an SCR adopter 14775 Jeffrey Rd.,Suite F, Irvine, CA 92618 949-551-2727 Companion Care Veterinary Hospital http://www.arboranimalhospital.com Dr. Michalena Sadowski 16588 Bernardo Cenyer Drive, Suite 160 Animal and Bird Clinic of Mission Viejo San Diego, CA 92128 Dr. Bloch and Dr. Coward (doesn’t push vaccinations) 858-451-0990 24912 Chrisanta, Mission Viejo (mixed reviews see Yelp.com) 949-768-3651 Referred by an SCR adopter www.abcofmv.vetsuite.com Referred by Kim Rockshaw and several adopters Talega Animal Hospital Dr. Robert Stone Laguna Beach Animal Hospital 995 Avenida Pico, San Clemente, CA 92673 Dr. Lauren Craft (949) 481-8387 460 Forest Ave, Laguna Beach, CA 92651 949-494-9721 Arroyo PetCare Center Referred by Kim Rockshaw David A Gordon, DVM 1 South Pointe Dr , Lake Forest, CA 92630-5049 Golden Lantern Animal Hospital 949-770-1808 Dr.Tom Saunders (not the other vets there) Referred by an SCR adopter 32545 Golden Lantern, #C, Dana Point, CA 92629 949-493-1370 Dr. Caroline Goulard, Holistic vet Note: $50-60 less on blood panels than other vets 78 La Mirage Circle, Aliso Viejo, CA 92656 Referred by Kim Rockshaw 949-836-3772 [email protected] Referred by an SCR adopter

58 Irvine Veterinary Services, University Park EMERGENCY 24 hour: Dr. Edward Cole 5401 University Drive, Irvine, CA 92612 Animal Urgent Care of So Orange County 949-786-0990 (next door to Mission Viejo Animal Shelter) http://irvinevetservices.com/ 28085 Hillcrest, Mission Viejo, CA 92692 open 7 days a week 949-364-6228 Dr Cole started this vet business about 30 years ago VCA All-Care Animal Referral Center Referred by an SCR adopter 18440 Amistad Suite E, Fountain Valley, CA 92708 714-963-0909 Not recommended: Highly recommended, many board certificed vet specialists on staff, excellent 24 hour care. Crown Valley Animal Care, Crown Valley Pky, Laguna Niguel Central Orange County Emergency Clinic Dr. Fred at El Toro Animal Hospital, El Toro Road, El 949-261-7979 Toro 3720 Campus Drive #D, Newport Beach, 92660 Banfield Pet Hospitals (Petsmart) – prices very high & http://orangecountyemergencyvet.com/ recommend unnecessary procedues/tests Laguna Hills Animal Hospital – Recommended Southern California Veterinary Specialty Hospital euthanizing kitten with URI. 1371 Reynolds Ave., Irvine, CA 92614 (949) 833-9020 Other recommended Specialities: UC Davis Veterinary Medicine Recommended for hard to solve medical problems http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/vmth/index.cfm

Dr. Patrick Melese board-certified Veterinary Behaviorist San Diego, CA 858-259-6115 http://www.sdvetbehavior.com/ CAT BOARDING FACILITY: Dr. Jean Dodds DVM (holistic) Cats Love Us (5 stars on Yelp.com) Hemopet, Garden Grove, CA Joyce & Don Jerome http://www.hemopet.org/ 27601 Forbes Road, Laguna Niguel, CA 92677 949-582-1732 Eye Care for Animals http://www.catsluvus.com/ Dr. Blocker or Dr. Rebecca Burwell Referred by All of us, only boarding facility I would leave 3025 Edinger Ave, Tustin, CA 92780, a cat. 949-733-8271, (F) 949-733-8270 http://www.eyecareforanimals.com/

Kim Rockshaw (Homeopath Vet) 949-366-6818 San Clemente, CA www.kimrockshaw.com Referred by Linda Wilson, SCR

59 LOW COST SPAY & NEUTER IN OUR AREA (Prices as of 5/2014)

Animal Medical Center Bordetella Nasal: $12.00 16540 Harbor Blvd, Suite A Corona: $12.00 (Series of 2 - $18.00) Fountain Valley, CA 92708 Parvo Vaccine only: $10.00 714-531-1155 Lyme Disease Vaccine: $17.00 (Series of 2 - $30.00) http://www.amcfv.com/ Heartworm Test: $25.00 Call for an appointment, sometimes takes a month to Nail Trim: $12.00 get one so plan ahead! Dogs and Cats: Spay cat: $45 Office Visit exam by a licensed Veterinarian: $15 Neuter cat: $30 Health Certificate: 16.00+Office visit exam Test FeLV/FIV: $45 Pharmacy : $8.00+ Spay Dog (goes by weight) – up to 20lb $78; 90-100 lb Injection Fee $9.00+ cost $150 Deworming: $8.00+ Neuter Dog (goes by weight) – up to 20lb $70; 90-100 Rabies: $8.00 lb $115 Fecal Exam: $8.00 Other services provided, call for details/costs Skin Scrape: $8.00 Hours: Monday-Friday 8am to 6pm, Ear Cleaning: $12.00+ Saturday 8am to 3pm Anal Expression: $15.00 Golden State Humane Society - Animal Care Trinity Pet Hospital, aka Affordable Spay & Neuter Center 24861 Alicia Pkwy, Suite D, Laguna Hills, CA 92653 555 E. Artesia Blvd. (949) 768-1314 Long Beach, CA 90805 http://www.affordablespays.com (562) 423 8406 Note: More expensive that two listed above but good Second location in Garden Grove: prices for Orange County. Call for prices. 11901 Gilbert St Garden Grove, CA 92841 http://inlandempirerescues.webs.com/ (562) 423-8406 spayandneuterservices.htm Walk in Veterinary Hours: Mon.-Fri. 1pm-5pm, Lists vets with good S/N prices in several counties Sat. 8am-1:00pm including Orange County. Note: prices on website are Vaccination hours: Mon.-Fri. 9am-11:30am and out of date, call vet office for updated prices. 1pm to 5pm, Sat. 8am-1:30pm Make sure you call for an appointment for spays/ http://www.spaycalifornia.com neuters! To find other vets in California that do low cost S/N Cat: you can go to www.spaycalifornia.com - enter your Spay/neuter: $29.50 zip code and it gives a listing of low-cost spay/neuter FVRCP (Series of 2) $17.00 (recommended for vets close to you. You will have to do some calling teenagers & young adults) to confirm prices since some of the vets that list FVRCP (Series of 3) $22.00 (recommended for kittens) themselves as “low cost” are fairly high for a cat, like FVRCP (4 in1): $12.00 $75 to $95 and up to $250 for a big dog spay. FeLV Test: $15.00 or FeLV/FIV Test - $25.00 FeLV Vaccine Series (2): $24.00 Check your local city/county animal control to see if FIP vaccine:$17.00 (WE DO NOT RECOMMEND – they have any special pricing arrangements with vets. . Not shown as effective) Check all Humane Societies near you, they often have Cat Carrier Box: $3.00 low cost S/N programs. Nail Trim: $9.00 Dog: Other ways to save money on spays and neuters – Spay/Neuter: $39.50 refuse all of the extras. Cone not needed. Pain meds DHPP/DHLPP (4 in 1): $12.00 are not needed on neuters or kittens. Young animals do DHPP/DHLPP series of 2: $21.00 not need a pre-anesthetic blood test. DHPP/DHLPP series of 3: $28.00 (for puppies) Bordetella Booster: $10.00 60 Favorite Cat Related Wedsites

Health, Food & Behavioral Issues http://www.tuftscatnip.com/ - This is an excellent newsletter that takes NO advertisement from makers of cat products, reviews products and discusses health & behavioral issues. http://www.fabcats.org/owners/worming/info.html - The website of the Feline Advisory Bureau, a charity dedicated to promoting the health and welfare of cats through improved feline knowledge of cat owners. http://www.catinfo.org/ - Dr. Lisa Pierson DVM. Excellent discussions on cat nutrition, pilling cats, litter box issues, vaccines… http://www.petplace.com/ - Dr. Jon link has a free informative email newsletter. http://www.ehow.com/pets/cats/cat-health/-- eHow.com covers a lot of different issues concerning cat’s health and behavior. http://www.catster.com/ - A free informative email newsletter with some good tips.

Cat & Other Animals for Adoption http://www.southerncountiesrescue.org/ - This is our website. It shows the cats we have for adoption in Orange County. It also has many articles under RESOURCES like Bottle Feeding, Finding your lost Cat... http://www.petfinder.com/index.html - This site allows you to search by zip code and animal breed. http://www.adoptapet.com/ - This site allows you to search by zip code and animal breed.

Shopping for Something Different & Great Food Prices http://www.hauspanther.com/ - cats + design website with links to really cool, often very modern cat things such as cat trees, beds…plus ideas on things to make for cats. http://www.petstrends.com/ - Wide selection of quality products. http://www.litter-robot.com/ - The only automatic litter box that really works, gets 4.5 stars based on Amazon 429 reviews. It’s expensive but if you want an automatic box this is the one to buy. http://www.chewy.com/ - Best prices online for quality pet food and includes no tax and free shipping. Beats any local price, obviously this can change. I have a standing order shipping every two weeks to my door. www.chewy.com/rp/1588 - Use this link, they will donate $20 to us after your first older. https://www.etsy.com/ - search under cat toys, beds, cat fountains, scratchers…

Visit us on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/SouthernCountiesRescue As of May, 2014

61 About Southern Counties Rescue Who We Are and What We Do.

Southern Counties Rescue is microchipped, tested for feline an all volunteer (no paid staff), leukemia (FeLV) and feline AIDS non‑profit, no-kill organization (FIV), and are spayed or neutered devoted to finding loving new before going to their new homes. homes for homeless cats and kit- Southern Counties Rescue holds tens in Imperial, San Diego and bi-monthly adoptions at pet stores Orange Counties. in San Juan Capistrano. Cats and Founding members and adop- kittens are also home shown to tion events of SCR were for- potential adopters. merly part of Kitten Rescue, Los In addition to rescuing and placing Angeles, LA’s largest cat rescue cats and kittens in need, Southern organization. Counties Rescue is equally passion- Many of our cats are rescued from high kill city ate about reducing the number of stays and unwanted shelters at the 11th hour – right before they are sched- kittens by supporting all spay/neuter programs and uled to be euthanized. We also take in friendly mom educating the public on the need to fix their own pets with kittens born in backyards, kittens born in feral and any cats that wander into their yards, especially if colonies, and cats abandoned on the streets to fend they are feeding them. for themselves. We are committed to making a differ- Unfortunately, we receive many more calls for help ence in the lives of these animals. Every year Southern than we can answer. Volunteers are always needed Counties Rescue rescues and places around 100 cats to foster abandoned cats and kittens, staff adoption and kittens in the San Diego – Orange County areas. events, help with transportation, fundraising, assist- Southern Counties Rescue does not have a shelter. All ing with web postings, paperwork or publicity and for of our rescued cats and kittens are fostered in private numerous other jobs. homes where they are cared for by our volunteers until Donations are also welcomed to help defray the cost they are adopted. Dedicated volunteers care for bottle of rescuing injured animals and shelter animals and to babies, moms with litters, cats that need socialization, pay the cost of basic veterinary care. and sick and injured animals. The average cost of each cat we rescue is much higher Kittens are offered for adoption no earlier than eight than our minimum adoption donation, so we rely on weeks of age, with a minimum weight of two pounds donations to let us save more animals. and healthy. Potential adopters are screened for suit- ability. Cats and kittens are vaccinated, dewormed,

It takes a Community to Rescue. Some donate their time and home, others donate money to pay for the vets and food of the foster cats. We couldn’t do it with out everyone’s help. Please donate to allow us to keep saving lives.

100% of adoption fees and donations go toward rescuing more cats and kittens! A 501(c)3 non-profit organization, tax ID # 45-4597576 Please send donations to: Southern Counties Rescue PO Box 1399 Brawley, CA 92227 Donations can also be sent via PayPal to [email protected] 62 Price $20.00