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#170 14 - 20 November 2003 16 pages Rs 25

Weekly Internet Poll # 110

Q. Are you generally optimistic or pessimistic about Nepal’s future?

Total votes:1,357 Weekly Internet Poll # 111. To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com As passenger volume peaks, airlines cash in. Q. Should the political parties patch up with the king, the Maoists or continue with their agitation? Winging it

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NAVIN○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ SINGH KHADKA drive. But they add that traffic is reaching Because of its larger fleet of six In an effort to meet passenger demand, n Tuesday evening, a Buddha Air saturation point because of capacity and Beechcraft, Buddha has profited the most Buddha has shunted nearly all its Biratnagar Kathmandu-Biratnagar flight flew infrastructure bottlenecks. from the current crunch, carrying nearly half and Bhairawa flights to late evening and night by mistake to Bhairawa. Domestic airline capacity has been of all domestic passengers since Dasai. But because they are the only airports with night- Given the present rush in severely cut because airlines with larger its managing director, Birendra Basnet, says landing facilities. Nepalganj’s nightlanding is domestic airline traffic and the chaos at the aircraft like Necon have grounded their 50- the traffic will drop off once the buses start out of action because of technical problems terminals, a slip-up like that was bound to seater ATRs and Cosmic is only operating running normally again. Basnet also says with equipment, making matters worse. Ohappen sooner or later. Domestic airline one of its SAAB 340s. This means airlines airlines don’t like to work under such With morning fog in Kathmandu, there just executives say they are reaping a bonanza with smaller planes like Buddha, Yeti, pressure. “It is difficult to maintain aren’t enough hours in a day to fly because security concerns along highways Skyline, Sita and Gorkha are stretched to schedules and we have to make sure our everywhere. have diverted travellers to fly rather than the limit to pick up the slack. customers are happy,” he told us. continued ð p5 owned by local political activists and are farming it commune- style. This trend is spreading east. In Sindhupalchok, a Maoist flag flutters on a tree in the property of UML leader Amrit Bohara. “First we were targets of the panchayat government and now we are under attack from the Maoists,” Bohara told us in Kathmandu. Land grab In Panchthar, Maoists looted the granary of RPP leader Padma Sunder Lawoti and, after harassing his 80-year-old The Maoist policy of confiscating mother, they looted his house and took away his horses. In Dhankuta, the ancestral home of Prime Minister Surya Bahadur land aggravates an already Thapa, his land and property have been seized. In Morang, the precarious food situation. Maoists harvested the entire rice crop of Nepali Congress leader One of the remaining families Amod Upadhyay and took it away. In Bhojpur they forced local ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○SHARAD KC in Rajapur winnowing grain. UML leader Hemraj Rai to hand over one-third of his harvest, aoist threats to farmers not to harvest grain, but later apologised and returned the grain. confiscation of land and looting of granaries has spread concern that Nepal’s already- Maoists have not only targeted rich landowners but also poorer farmers who they suspect of precarious food situation may worsen in the coming months. being informants, or those who refused to cooperate with them. All this goes against the Across the country, the Maoists are occupying farms taken from absentee landlords or revolutionary agricultural plan of the Maoist United Revolutionary Peoples’ Council that pledges not Mconfiscated from political opponents. There is no estimate how much farmland is directly under to confiscate land from farmers and lays out a land-to-the-tiller policy. So far, most farmers Maoist control, but reports from across the country this is a nationwide trend. Elsewhere, tillers who targeted by Maoists own less than 10 bigha. used to hand over a part of the harvests to landlords, are now forced to give the produce to local The Maoists justify their action, saying it is against zamindars and capitalists. But it is the Maoists. Food security experts say this has set off a chain reaction of lower harvests, falling middle-income farmers who have suffered the most—the same hardworking Nepali farmers who ENJOY productivity and a general food shortage. long ago gave up expecting anything from the government and had built and cultivated their own Since the landlords know they won’t be able to collect the harvest, they do not invest any farms. t Every Friday more on fertiliser, seeds and other inputs. The tillers or sharecroppers can’t afford to make that With reports by Jhalak Gaire in Nepalganj and Rajendra Nath in Nepalganj The Sumptuous Barbecue Dinner investment and the Maoists are too busy fighting to help with farming. As a result, productivity is dwindling and adding to the plight of middle and lower-income farmers. and military fascism” was rooted out from the at our illuminated Courtyard and Garden A large number of landowners in western Nepal have abandoned their property and this trend has accelerated after the Maoists descended to the tarai during the post-Dasai harvest season. country. He accused the Royal Nepali Army of For Vegetarians Maoist supremo Prachanda’s fiery statement acting under instructions from the United States Special Sish Kebabs and many more. Many farmers have migrated to India, or to the cities. In the fertile Rajapur region which is an Prachanda feeler? island between two branches of the Karnali, many farmers have simply stopped planting because Thursday in which he lashed out at the army, to set up a unified command, which he said was For Reservation: 552 1810 of Maoist extortion and threats. government and Washington, had an trying to establish military control in South Asia Sita Devi Upadhyay, a 51-year-old widow, lost all her land to the Maoists when she could not overture to the political parties. He asked and encircle China. Another Maoist leader, Ram meet their donation demand. She took a loan of Rs 30,000 to pay them off, but the Maoists them not to dismiss his movement’s Bahadur Thapa (Badal), in an interview this wanted more. Now they have taken over her land. Her neighbour, Shankar Tharu, was forced to commitment to multiparty democracy. But, week with the party paper Janadesh said that hand over all his harvest and since he had nothing left to feed his family, he left for India. Further west in Kailali, the Maoists have confiscated more than 200 hectares of land mostly Prachanda added that a multiparty system his group was trying to coordinate with the would only work after “feudal dictatorship anti-king agitation of the political parties. 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 2 EDITORIAL NEPALI TIMES #170 Nepali Times is published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd, Chief Editor: Kunda Dixit STATE OF THE STATE by CK LAL Desk Editor: Trishna Gurung, Design: Kiran Maharjan Webmaster: Bhushan Shilpakar [email protected], www.nepalitimes.com Advertising: Sunaina Shah [email protected] Subscription: Anil Karki [email protected] Sales: Sudan Bista [email protected] Sanchaya Kosh Building, Block A-4th Floor, Lalitpur GPO Box 7251, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 01-5543333/ 5523845 Fax: 01-5521013

Printed at Jagadamba Press, Hattiban: 01-5547018/17 ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ARTY POOPERS Halt...before○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ militancy the and militarism alms devour therace country from within. P hings are finally moving on Nepal-India cooperation. Whatever created the discrepancy between word and knows who his real bosses are. There are were stooges of the British and helped logjam, it seems to have been removed. Several hydropower projects are deed is one of the defining features just too many signs of creeping out militarily whenever the empire moving ahead simultaneously: Budi Gandaki, Upper Karnali and even the on- of authoritarian regimes. militarisation. found itself in a bit of a tight corner. again-off-again private sector joint venture West Seti. The last is such good news in India that the Economic Times newspaper gave an exultant headline to the story this Pronouncements usually hide real A study of the militarisation of Where will the process of militancy and Tweek: ‘Nepal to light up North India’. intentions of the authority. A politics and society in Southeast Asia militarisation lead us this time? In other fronts, the Birganj dry port agreement was finalised amidst cheers from the Acontradiction between a government’s has shown that there are parallels across The process of militarisation usually business community here. Nepali banaspati ghiu exporters are happy that they can policies and their implementation over a Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines. means that authoritarian regimes are start selling again in India. Even the Nepal-Bhutan bilateral agreement on prolonged period hollows out a regime In addition to unnecessary violence, more loyal to the forces that prop it up repatriation of refugees, however flawed, appears to have unjammed. This week, after more than a decade, India announced it is resuming bilateral cash grants to local from within. And when such regimes militarisation results in: than to the people of the country. bodies with a first package worth Rs 500 million. finally fall, their collapse is so sudden l Repression and human rights Which doesn’t augur well for the future For the intrigue-minded in Kathmandu, all this is too good to be true. Where is the that it takes even its opponents by violations of democracy in the country. It seems catch, they ask. Is all this tied up somehow with domestic political developments? surprise. l Loss of resources that the promises of the current crop of To be sure, Indian aid to local bodies comes at a l Underdevelopment ministers notwithstanding, the time when elected VDC and DDC councils don’t even exist. Positions are being filled by nominees who are l Dependency likelihood of elections being held handed their appointment papers at the Local anytime soon are remote. The Development Ministry at Sri Mahal. At a radio talk Instances of repression and human mainstream political parties have program this week (translated on page 12) some of rights violations are on the rise, there is concluded that the present regime has the new nominees argue that their responsibility is constricted freedom of expression and no intention of restoring democracy in towards the people and the people can’t wait for the politics in Kathmandu to sort itself out. They have a there is a curtailment in the freedom of the country. point. movement and association. When armed Perhaps that explains the The debate really should be over how to quickly men in uniform suffer from road rage on contradictions in Surya Bahadur deliver development in a time of crisis, not a Ring Road and shoot taxi drivers dead, Thapa’s public pronouncements. As his theoretical debate over the process of democracy. we know there is a problem. flip-flop on the delay in the That is the current conundrum: how long do we wait For some years now, we have seen appointments of constitutional bodies for things to get worse before we start working to make them better? development resources being diverted to show, the prime minister is a loyal The Maoists dismantled democracy at the defence. Soldiers who flaunt shiny courtier who takes flak when things go grassroots over the past eight years by systematically Belgian guns may not realise it, but awry. The identity of invisible decision- killing off, or hounding out, elected local officials money to buy those weapons will makers remain hidden. and blowing up most VDC buildings. At the national probably mean their own children will In the developing world, level, a parliament, an elected prime minister and other institutions of democracy have been extirpated suffer from the reduction of public authoritarian regimes often take up the one by one by the royal right. Just go through this investment in education and healthcare. reigns of government on the pretext of checklist: Parliament is dissolved, the Auditor Underdevelopment is difficult to restoring order, justifying it by saying General’s office hasn’t made a report in two years, detect at the initial stage, but the fact that elected leaders made a mess of the Election Commission is commissionerless (the that the economic growth has things. But as Pakistani human rights prime minister has clarified that some names are still in his pocket) and, although the Attorney General contracted for the first time in several advocate Clement John observes, the has his hands full, it is not clear who he is years is a clear indication that the breakdown of democratic governance in accountable to these days. economy is in a tailspin. A war economy Asian countries isn’t due to the In fact, the only institution that is extraordinarily active is the CIAA, leading to After repeatedly asserting that the propels growth only in those countries corruption of politicians alone, “It is speculation about who it choses to prosecute. One does not have to be a conspiracist country was not being militarised, the that manufacture military hardware, it because most Asian societies are faced to see that it really does look like shadowy forces are dismantling the superstructure of prime minister has suddenly changed his democracy. benefits only arms merchants. For the with complex problems relating to race, The only entities that could start rebuilding democracy, the political parties, have line and accused his predecessors of rest, it takes money away from culture, religion, nationalism, ethnic shown themselves to be out of their depth. Their fragile alliance seems to fall apart starting the process. There is no smoke investment in sectors like public parochialism and last, but not least, every time a prime ministership is dangled in front of them. The Nepali Congress and without fire and Girija Prasad Koirala is infrastructure and social welfare. Nepal their class base. In such circumstances, the UML are still waiting for that phone call from the palace. Sher Bahadur Deuba and indeed guilty of allowing the military to and Pakistan are the only two non-sub- it is difficult to obtain a political Girija Prasad Koirala hate each other so much that it is certain they will take each meddle in civic affairs by inviting it to Saharan countries on UNDP's list of consensus on such complex issues.” other down without anyone else's help. Collectively, the parties are trapped between the right and left. Their anti- begin pilot development projects in lowest human development index. The antidote to this creeping regression logic is now tired, and they know that the people know it is a hollow slogan. districts with security problems. Militarisation leads to dependency as militarisation is aggressive politicisation. They don’t want to intensify the agitation for fear the Maoists will infiltrate it. In the However, that was an anomaly in a the armed forces rely on foreign donors. Messers Koirala and Nepal have their end, as is the norm in Nepal, the losers are the people from whose grasp sovereignty democratic system. Alms of arms have deadlier strings attached work cut out for them in the days to granted by the 1990 Constitution has now been all but taken away. They have lost their But with royal-appointed than development aid. come—political mobilisation and grass- voice, and have nowhere to turn now to ask the questions that they want to about whether international agreements involving national resources will ultimately benefit governments in Singha Darbar, the army The militarisation of Nepali polity is roots activism to fight the ogres of them. Through all this, the king is keeping an enigmatic silence. has begun to call the shots. Thapa can proceeding at a pace that hasn’t been militancy and militarism that are say that he is in charge, but everyone seen since the days of the Ranas who devouring the country from within. t

L ETTERS needs proper management and unleashes even more pain and if there is anything that will uplift improving educational opportu- Kathmandu’s mayor KeshabMAYOR relocation of its settlements, Here we go again with CK Lal LAL misery and drains our meagre Nepal in the next few years, it nities for young Nepalis. The Sthapit comes across as a bold especially those which came after (‘Our praetorian guards’, #168). resources even further. Working must be a reversal of its politics. fund provides scholarships, and visionary dreamer in your 1985. Kathmandu can be a Were the NEA and NTC, those within a system can also bring All economic laws warn against both merit and needs-based, to profile of him (‘My city’, #169). modern cosmopolitan city, as the models of efficiency, not charging change and opportunity—with investing in Nepal at the present school-going children. It has But he should also pay attention mayor says, but we shouldn’t exorbitant fees way before the far less misery. Finally, one time since there will be no return earmarked support for children to saving the Valley’s open make that happen at the expense insurgency? The cost per kwh needs to have a nation like Rome on investment because of the affected by conflict. There are spaces and its agricultural land. of our past glory. was certainly a major issue behind before reaching for a prevalent negative growth. But if already 200 students who are His new urban plan should Basanta Kumar Gautam, the derailment of Arun III, if I recall comparison with its Praetorian investments are to be made, it being helped. incorporate the basis of the Kasugai, Japan the debates correctly. Also, one Guard. We are talking about a must be on the poor. That alone Shanta Dixit, Patan Dhoka Valley’s heritage and civilisation. would be hard-pressed to find a country that never even will guarantee some returns. New settlements should use l There is no doubt that nation that has not been united or approached a millionth of the Pradeep Thapa, minimum prime farming land by Kathmandu has lost its charm due created by force. The Greeks, glory of Rome. When has the Baltimore, USA I very much appreciated yourARIAS going highrise. Kathmandu to unplanned urbanisation, Romans, Aztecs, Zulus, European RNA ever made or broken eloquent and on-the-mark population growth, overcrowding, nations, South American nations emperors, kings or prime editorial (‘Boy on a swing’, traffic, dust, pollution. Mayor and so on have been united by ministers? They can barely hold Your praise of Fr Eugene WATRINWatrin #169) invoking Oscar Arias Sthapit seems confident he can force. It is an undeniable and their own. Earth to CK Lal: (‘In the name of the Father’, and Esquipulas as a possible bring the city back to its past flawed element of human nature please return from Planet #169) was much-deserved. It is example for restoring peace in pristine glory. This is not possible and utopians tend to conveniently Hyperbole to writing great the likes of Fr Watrin and his Nepal. Having been active in without the help and the full co- ignore this. Paul Johnson, an articles again. contemporaries who came as solidarity with the Central operation from the government. I American historian, asks (I partially P Rana, email youthful Jesuits to serve in American revolutions of the believe it is the duty of all paraphrase) “...can a nation, born Nepal who have been role- 1980s and opposition to the residents of Kathmandu to lend in sin and war, rise above the models for many of us. We must Reagan and Bush him a helping hand in achieving injustices of its origins, and by its Glad to see that NRNs are liningNRN learn from their dedication and administrations, it warmed my the goal. I hope the promises he moral purpose and performance, up to invest in Nepal. As an work ethics. Your article failed heart to see that historic has made in your article will not atone from them?” overseas Nepali myself, I to mention the ‘Fr Eugene L moment resurrected and be like the empty rhetoric of In Nepal, we need to right past wonder why they want to Watrin Scholarship Endowment applied to the present juncture today’s politicians. wrongs but this doesn’t have to invest in Nepal at such a Fund’, which was established in in Nepal. Dr Eli Pradhan, KMC occur through an insurgency that troubled period. It is evident that 2003, and is dedicated to P Constantini, Seattle

14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 4 NATION NEPALI TIMES #170

shakeout as the fly-by-nights go bankrupt, and only the professionally-run and efficiently managed airlines survive. At one point the number of operating license holders had reached a staggering 44. Nepal’s domestic aviation history (and the apron at Kathmandu airport) is littered with the rusting hulks of airlines that didn’t quite make it: Mountain Air, Lumbini, Flight Care, Nepal Airways, Everest Air. Airline owners blame faulty taxation and A flying start inconsistent civil aviation policy for their plight. They complain that they have no more tax holidays nor can they import spare parts at reasonable custom duties like they did in the past. “Initially, the policies were right and helped us grow, but they changed policies midstream and that has threatened our existence,” Rana explains. The other factor is the downtrend in tourism since 1999 and especially post 9/11 when airline insurance premiums went up. In fact, the airlines that have survived are the ones who don’t solely depend on tourist traffic and derive a proportion of their income from operating trunk routes. Officials with Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal (CAAN) charge private airliners with mishandling their companies. They say if policies were wrong, all airlines should have been equally badly affected. Even some private operators agree with that. “It all depends on whether you want to get rich quick, or you want to build an institution,” says Buddha’s Basnet. “Those who run airlines professionally have been able to KUNDA DIXIT sustain themselves.” is responding to the demand. With seven To be sure, government policies have ð from p1 Twin Otters, it has the largest fleet among been haphazard and ad-hoc. The mandatory The unexpected turnaround in tourist domestic airlines but till last month only two requirement for airlines to ensure that 40 traffic also caught domestic airlines of them were airworthy. “We made it a percent of their flights are to non-tourist unawares, although they aren’t complaining priority to get them flying again, and now we destinations and remote areas is not about it. Domestic airlines make most of have five in the air,” says Captain Vijay enforced anymore. When asked, a senior their profit from dollar-denominated Lama, head of domestic operations. CAAN official passed the buck to the tourist rates on flights. A tourist on a Despite the surge in traffic, domestic ministry saying they aren’t allowed to Pokhara-Jomsom flight, for instance pays operators have been cautious about exercise autonomy on policy-decisions. nearly four times more than a Nepali. expansion. If Necon starts flying both its Some investors are now flexing their Another money spinner is the Mt Everest ATRs, for instance, a lot of the pressure on wings to fly international routes. After sightseeing flight which costs $100. other carriers could immediately ease. But keeping application in deep freeze, CAAN On a single day last week, there were that doesn’t look likely. has finally selected Air Shangri-La and 25 flights to Lukla, Pokhara saw a record Fish Tail’s Bikash Rana, for one, has Cosmic Air for international licenses. Air 107 flight movements on a single day in decided that this is the right time to expand. Shangri-La has permission to fly as far as mid-October during a Maoist bandh, and He has sold off his Ecuriel helicopters to Munich via Sharjah and other destinations, Kathmandu airport has been regularly plan an ambitious foray in domestic routes provided at least one of its two aircraft is servicing over 250 takeoffs and landings a with used Fokker F-50s. “There is a demand widebody. Cosmic has asked for regional HAPPIER TIMES: Pokhara airport apron last year with two airlines day, most of them planes on domestic for domestic air seats which are not being destinations, mainly in India and is required that are not flying anymore: Mountain Air and Necon (above) and routes. “The airport is as busy as it was met, we will fill it,” he told us. to operate at least one jet. Both have one Kathmandu’s domestic airport crowded with flights waiting for the fog during the Visit Nepal Year in 1998,” one After its initial phenomenal growth year to start operations, or else they will go to lift. airport official told us. following deregulation in the early 1990s, the way of previous ill-fated attempts to Even state-owned Royal Nepal Airlines the domestic airline industry has seen a start private international airlines. t

HERE AND THERE by DANIEL LAK

his past week was one of remembrance of things past. On the 11th cooperation that kept the anti-Nazi alliance together collapsed as military hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in the year 1918, a horrible technology proceeded apace, delivering the worst weapons of all time— war came to an end—the first war fought with modern technology Doomed to repeat all our old mistakes. atomic bombs—to both America and Russia. Anti-communist paranoia but still using human cannon fodder on a grand scale. Many, many millions took hold of the United States, not entirely without good reason, as Soviet Tdied in the conflict known as World War I, most of them from Russia and Full circle expansionism clapped shackles around Eastern Europe. China too, for its the territories that would form the Soviet Union. So horrified were the own reasons, followed a Communist path. survivors that 11 November has henceforth been recognised in many The Korean War entrenched fear, anger and cynical exploitative countries as a day to recall the cost of war; not just by honouring fallen political behavior in Western countries. Senator Joseph McCarthy began his soldiers, nurses, workers and civilians but by renouncing violence as a way infamous witchhunt in the United States and President Eisenhower’s to resolve conflicts. infamous ‘military industrial complex’ easily bested the forces of peace and Of course, being human means lessons are rarely learnt from history. reason that once seemed ascendant. A new decade, the 1960s, saw America We repeat our mistakes, and often modernise them. The carnage and enter a new, and later disastrous, war in Southeast Asia. A prosperous tragedy of Europe’s first horrible war of the 20th century was soon country sent its young into battle despite the misgivings of its friends and surpassed by the genocide and cynicism of the second. Not just on the allies around the world. The US still bears the scars of its intervention in German side either, although few would argue that the Nazis were not evil Vietnam, and as for the people of that region, one statistic will suffice to incarnate. World War II saw the British, American and other Allied powers paint the picture. More bombs were dropped by US bombers on the engaged in the deliberate targeting of civilians as a tactic to discourage sparsely populated backwater of Laos than on all of Europe by all of the German war planners from their own bombing campaigns. Overshadowing aircraft that flew in World War II. To this day, the Laotian countryside is even the battlefield and urban bombfield casualties of that war, though, still the most dangerous minefield on the planet. were the victims of Nazi hatred—Jews, Gypsies, homosexuals, Poles and Fallen soldier in France, World War I. Now, in the week of Remembrance 2003, a new millennium, the other groups that somehow offended Hitler. aftermath of an unprecedented economic boom in most Western Europe’s second descent into barbarism of the last century ended in political party, Labour, that promised and delivered on some of the most economies, technology once again resurgent and liberating, literacy, victory for the anti-Nazi forces and a great outpouring of collectivist human sweeping economic reforms outside of Bolshevik Russia. Universal health healthcare and other development indicators largely improving, where do behaviour on a scale the world hasn’t seen since. American largesse rebuilt care, unemployment insurance and protection for the weakest in society, we stand? Why, we’re once again at war, often it seems against chimerical the bomb shattered lives of Europeans, sparing no expense and pouring these were seen as the hallmarks of the new, post war civilisation. enemies who barely exist, but make no mistake, it’s war. War for war’s resources into defeated Germany, every bit as much as victorious England. In effect, the war dead were being honoured by attempts to forge a sake, perpetual war, war, war, war. A grim week of remembrance then, of And the British soldiers, who survived and came home heroes, threw their consensus against poverty and ignorance, to move away from corporate and the stark fact that we seemed doomed to repeat our mistakes. Again and efforts into rebuilding their country politically. They voted for a socialist elite exploitation of the poor. Yet the platitudes of brotherhood and again and again. t 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 NATION NEPALI TIMES #170 5

ON THE MANASLU TRAIL come forward comrade so and so, JOEL○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ SCHONE comrade so and so,” she said. “They Sherpa who had worked on a trek with me had come to my hotel for Maoistshis salary, and unwisely, I hadin paid himManaslu in view of the hotel staff. Mixing Maoism and tourismwere all very young and this might After he had gone, one of them had approached me; “Why do you explain why further up the valley I give this man money? He is a dirty peasant. I am educated, give me some really noticed the absence of teenagers money also…” It is hard to explain to someone when logic goes that way. coming home at the end of the school AI tried to explain to the hotel staff that the Sherpa worked hard to make day.” a living, but it was clear he simply saw me giving away what to him was a The following day, during the vast sum of money. only day of action in the area so far, That was 15 years ago. In October, our trekking group was held up by moving through the forest towards Maoists in the stunningly beautiful Manaslu trekking circuit. The rebels Damphus, the trekkers heard gunfire told us we would not be allowed to proceed unless we paid a ‘war tax’ of as the army began flushing out $100. In conversation, the young man was forthright, telling us the money Maoists in the nearby jungles. Since was being used to equip his comrades for their struggle. Around us villagers were in the middle of their own struggle: harvesting millet and then, this particular phase of activities down the hill we could see children in the school playground, their struggle in the Annapurna seems to be over, for education about to begin for the day. Like most Nepali children, they and the area has been quiet. The army got up early to finish their tasks on the farm before walking uphill to school. ALL PICS WANDA VIVEQUIN presence is not so pronounced and It was obvious that none of the money we were forced to donate would

in HELAMBU ○○○○○○○○○○○

WANDA○○○○○ VIVEQUIN and sometimes even eager for an were similar stories last month. Maoist extortion has tapered off. go to local education, agriculture or health care. It was obvious that, unlike rom talking to independent encounter, perhaps to provide them Trekkers on the trail were carrying My trekking clients often ask what what Mao Zedong taught, they were not interested in the people of this trekkers here in these scenic with added adventure for the slide souvenirs of Maoist receipts for they can do for Nepal when they get mountain village above the Budi Gandaki. This man sat in his office, well mountains north of Kathmandu, show back home. “I am sure those ‘donations’. “We had a fantastic time,” home to New Zealand. I simply ask fed, healthy, waiting for the next group of trekkers to take money from. We it seems people holidaying in Nepal were Maoists we saw on the trail today, two trekkers in Pokhara chirped that they put the situation into some paid, of course. We had come from around the world to see Nepal are treating travel warnings with a did you see them?” one woman asked enthusiastically. “You want to see our sort of context that moves beyond mountain peoples and $100 was not a lot of money. While all this was going on, our Sherpa crew sweated up the hill, Fgrain of salt. me at night in the lodge. They were receipt?” They had been stopped in a the sensational headlines that have unloaded and started to prepare lunch. Two seven-year-olds on their way “I don’t want to sound actually the family of a sick young girl lodge at Ghorepani, where one evening scared people off for the last few home stopped and watch their countrymen work while I try to reason with irresponsible, but I have to say that being carried down in a doko. But in mid-October, a couple of pleasant years. If tourism numbers this year the comrade who wants our money. The children walk past just as I am nowadays there are so few adventurous because they did not call out the young chaps had come in asking for a are any indication, this seems to be handing over the wad of $100 notes. They see a foreigner give another of tourist destinations left that are not on customary ‘namaste’, were assumed to donation. working. t their countrymen—the city man who sits at the entrance of the village and some sort of hit list,” one Dutch be Maoists. “I mean, what does a “They were polite enough to let us does nothing—a fortune in rupees. tourist in Sermathang told us. She Maoist look like anyway?” another finish our dinners first and when we Wanda Vivequin is a Canada-based After 20 years of wandering across the Nepal Himalaya, I am added, “It’s been a couple of years trekker asked me. She might have explained we were volunteers in Nepal. trekking group leader. convinced that the Manaslu region is the most beautiful trek in the since the travel warnings were upped been surprised to know that sitting in They said we should meet them later country. You look at the yellow signs painted on the rocks as you enter the for Nepal, but the fact remains that not the kitchen of the lodge that evening in another room downstairs,” one of villages: they tell you how much it costs to pave the streets and put in the a single tourist has been harmed as a were three local Maoists. the trekkers said. They were given a clean communal toilets. Sometimes up to $1,000 per village. Each sign says how much the local Mothers’ Group contributed, occasionally up to 70 result of the conflict.” In Gol Bhanjyang, locals said the ‘special discount’ rate, but still tried to percent. In the villages above the Melamchi local Maoist cadre leader had “enough explain to the young Maoists that they The people of Nepal do not want charity, they do not want handouts. river, a scant one-day walk from money for now” and we would not were not happy about the forced Like anyone, they want to lead a dignified, meaningful life in their Kathmandu, we wander through have to part with any rupees. Two days donation and that they should consider villages. To work, to follow the cycle of the seasons and their various faiths. villages sporting Maoist flags fluttering later as we headed back to Kathmandu reclassifying the request. “Calling it a The Maoists are behaving in the same way as the hotel clerk did with me in from treetops. Anti-American graffiti we awoke to a stream of army ‘fee’ would be better,” they said. Kathmandu 20 years ago. They are setting the wrong example by robbing denouncing the ‘Royal American personnel sweating their way up the The following day, after a hefty, tourists in full view of the future of Nepal, its children. This is incredible Army’ adorn the walls of school valley. Their undercover operatives hot climb to Damphus from Phedi, shortsightedness if they are truly interested in their country’s biggest asset: building, and look like they are from had been sent through the area a our own group were happily enjoying its people. another era, and another war. Other couple of days earlier to gather refreshments when another Canadian Joel Schone has been trekking in the Himalaya for the last 20 years. slogans: ‘People’s liberation is not intelligence on Maoist activity. What friend and her trekking group terrorism’, ‘American Imperial Army we were witnessing was a mopping-up appeared. They had just spent two Hands off Nepal’. The Maoists here operation. We walked one way, and the days walking the trail from Landruk seem to have run out of red paint, army went further up the valley. “All through Tolka and Pothana where a because the writings are all in fresh the Maoists disappeared now,” large number of Maoists amassed in blue paint, the colour of peace. the lodge owner said with a flick of one of the villages. Most trekkers we ran into in his hand. “It was a schoolyard full of young Helambu were prepared, rupees handy Up on the Annapurna trail, there Maoists being called out by name to

DOMESTIC BRIEFS

Nepal with archival footage of Pokhara 40 years

○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ ago. The enthralled audience broke into applause TheSold Snowy Mountain Energy Corporation (SMEC) twice during the screening. The last two has signed a draft power purchase agreement screenings of Bhedako oon jasto and Uhileko with India’s Power Trading Corporation (PTC) to Nepal drew 1,000 viewers in the 600 capacity hall. sell power from the West Seti hydel project to north

Indian states, according to Indian media reports. ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

The Australian company will now get a generation ○○○○ license to begin construction of the 750MW storage AmnestyUp in Internationalarms (AI) has expressed concern type hydro-project. One of the most lucrative hydel over the government’s plan to introduce Rural schemes in the country, West Seti has been Volunteer Security Groups and Peace Committees, designed with the sole purpose of exporting power announced on 4 November, which would arm local to India. According to the agreement, West Seti will volunteers to resist Maoist violence. “The creation provide eight hours of peaking power to north of such groups could also have a negative effect Indian states at the rate of IRs 2.60 per unit. It took on reconciliation efforts when the two sides lay SMEC years to reach an agreement with India’s down their arms and peace negotiations resume, PTC. The Indian government has also begun since they have the effect of setting neighbours negotiations on the construction of the Upper and communities against each other,” Amnesty Karnali hydropower project in west Nepal. NEA International said. officials believe it is almost a done deal and that the

Indians might start work by the end of this year.

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TheSky first runners Everest Sky Race 2003, to mark this ○○○○

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ year’s golden jubilee of the first ascent, began on POKHARADocumentary - Travelling Film fest South in Asia Pokhara 2004 kicked 10 November. Forty-five mountain runners from off in Pokhara this week with full house back-to- around the world are competing in 10 gruelling back screenings of the top films from this year’s stages that span 11 days. Organisers Base Camp documentary fesitval. This is the first time that a Trekking & Expeditions are sponsoring seven Nepali documentary festival has been held in Pokhara, and runners including two women. The race begins and the organisers Himal Association were surprised ends in Lukla and extends 280km with a climb of up by the turnout. “It was amazing, the two halls were to 5,540m at Kala Pathar. Runners will cross three sold out for every film and we had to screen some major passes all above 5000m: Kongma-La, Cho-La of the Nepali films twice,” said Basanta Thapa of and Renjo-La. Runners carry their own backpacks Himal Association. and plot their own trail using a map. On 11 The event was co-organised in Pokhara by Ex- November, after Stage 2, 18km from Monjo to Gandaki Boarding School Alumni Association Namche, Nepal’s Sumba Sherpa was in first place (EGBOSA). Fourteen films from Travelling Film with Frenchman Pascal Beaury second. The South Asia, which will be screened internationally runners took a break on 12 November at Namche to from January, were shown along with other acclimatise and for medical check-ups. Friday, documentaries of interest to Nepalis. The festival Stage 4, runners left Pangboche at 9AM to hit the ended with the screening of Tony Hagen’s Uhileko snow-laden trail. 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 6 NATION NEPALI TIMES #170 COMMENT by KEN OHASHI

e are all aware that there The third war in Nepalover primary schools to community commercial basis, but instead of are at least two wars being management. Other countries (eg, relying on the public monopoly, the fought in Nepal: one pits Guatemala and El Salvador) have government has opted to harness the Maoist rebels against the done something similar, but what private sector efficiency by offering a government, the second is between the Nepal has done is breathtaking in its one-time, capital subsidy to attract a mainW political parties and the king. scope. The government has told all competitive private bidder for this In fact, Nepal is fighting a third communities that they have the option service. war: a war against poor governance, of taking over the management of These are only part of a much exclusionary and feudal social public schools, and in 2003-04, it longer catalogue of reforms structures, and ultimately poverty expects 1,000 communities to sign on underway. To be fair, the impact of itself. It is being fought mostly by (out of about 20,000 public primary many of these reforms have not been less-than-fearsome-looking schools). In health, 460 sub-health felt widely yet at the grassroots technocratic reform leaders and an posts (out of about 4,000) have levels. Only when many of the poor enlightened breed of politicians who already been handed over to come to see the change first hand have transcended the day-to-day community management. and regain confidence in their own business of politics. On the flanks government, will there be a are change advocates all across Fighting corruption: People had foundation for sustained peace and civil society. come to see corruption as the norm development. Some of the local level political in politics and public Impressive and sustained leaders have been the important administration in Nepal. Even reform efforts in many other ‘field commanders’ of reforms. when the legal power of the countries have emerged often after Unlike in the other two wars, no Commission for Investigation of catastrophic events. Only such bullets are being fired and no mass Abuse of Authority (CIAA) was events seem capable of breaking demonstrations have been held. Yet, strengthened in 2002, many down the entrenched social and the consequence of defeat is no less expected little change. Since its political norms, and opening up serious than in the other two wars. From a profound sense of crisis, says the World Bank creation under the 1990 space for a new vision and Together, they could lead to nothing MIN BAJRACHARYA representative in Nepal, a new wave of reforms is beginning. Constitution, it had won but one leadership. But, what a costly way to short of a failed state. the fundamental ability of the tailspin and the government’s fiscal born. The deepening political conviction. During the last fiscal do what is clearly right for the Despite the many positive Nepali citizen to participate in social position weakened sharply. When this turmoil contributed to this crisis, year, however, the CIAA won over nation. Nepal’s reformers refused to changes that Nepal has seen since and political decision-making crisis did not seem to prompt the but it also produced the space and 40 convictions, and has changed the accept this historical ‘rule’ and the advent of multi-party democracy processes. The Maoist insurgency is political leadership into serious creative stress for technocrats to basic equation for the corrupt. To started a bold attempt to avert in 1990 and the first wave of a particularly acute expression of the corrective action, the frustration of begin implementing some important be sure, most of the cases involving catastrophe in the first place. While economic liberalisation measures in disillusionment over these adverse many turned into utter alarm that the reforms. Nepal’s reform leaders ‘big fish’ are still pending, but they the original impetus for change the early-1990s, stark and developments. After the Maoists nation was heading for catastrophe. already knew that unless decent are in considerable fear now. came more from technocratic worsening inequities persist, not escalated violence in November It is from this profound sense of public services begin to reach the leaders, many more in the political only in terms of incomes, but also of 2001, the economy went into a crisis that a new wave of reforms was poor masses quickly and their trust Financial sector reform: The two leadership now appear to be taking in the state is restored, Nepal would largest and ailing commercial banks notice. A far deeper appreciation of not have the foundation for either had accumulated estimated losses of the centrality of reforms to peace sustainable peace or meaningful about $450 million, nearly 8 building is beginning to emerge. economic development. Now was percent of GDP. No doubt, much of Take for example either the the time to run with the reforms. these losses arose because the politically change agenda forwarded by HMG at Serious reform efforts have thus well-connected elite have abused these the last round of peace talks with the emerged in a range of areas: two banks. The reformers became Maoists, or the 18-point program of convinced that left alone, the banks the agitating five party coalition. Public expenditure management: would eventually bring down the Polemics aside, the bulk of either Nepal’s budget system had been whole financial system, and wreck the composition is about social and plagued by waste, corruption and economy and government finances. economic reforms. political interference. In 2002-03, The reform is already showing some Nepal’s donors can only hope Nepal introduced a ‘medium-term encouraging results in stemming that Nepalis themselves will find the expenditure framework.’ Simply financial haemorrhaging courage to set aside political differences put, the Government is trying to and improving loan recovery. The in the pursuit of peace through their impose a realistic spending ceiling Deputy Governor of the central bank first two wars. Accustomed to inaction on itself, prioritise spending of Bangladesh came to Nepal recently and corruption, donors have been through a transparent evaluation to learn how Nepal has done what his somewhat cautious in the past to process and hold line ministries country has not been able to do. acknowledge the progress made in accountable for effective reforms. Now, however, many donors implementation of the agreed work Greater role of the private sector: appear willing to give Nepali reform plan. Nepal’s expenditure reform Like many developing countries, leaders the benefit of the doubt and efforts are beginning to draw Nepal’s public sector tended to be provide stronger support to their attention internationally as a little- involved in too many things. This efforts at winning Nepal’s third known success story. has been changing rapidly. For war. As Nicholas Stern, the World instance, to expand telephone Bank’s chief economist till recently, Public service delivery: For the services in the rural areas, the said: this is indeed a “special last 30 years, Nepal’s centrally- government has just selected a moment” for Nepal. t managed primary education system private operator to cover 538 VDCs has performed poorly. Last year, in the Eastern Region. Such a Ken Ohashi is the World Bank Country Nepal started the process of handing venture is not viable on a strictly Director for Nepal. 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 ECONOMY NEPALI TIMES #170 7

BIZ NEWS STRICTLY BUSINESS by ASHUTOSH TIWARI

○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ NepalTop has 30 figured prominently in the Lonely Planet’s list of 30 of the world’s top tourism hotspots. The list, which appeared in various leading newspapers around the world, included Machapuchre described “as perfect as the Matterhorn, only bigger” and the legendary Kathmandu n surveying the present Guest House in Thamel. So, Nepal still has what it takes. Nepali business landscape, a NEW PRODUCTS generational difference Reasons why Nepali business’ old guard fail to

becomes clear. Old and new ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○

HEAVY WEIGHTS The global logistics In the younger set, leaving impress○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ our young turks. giant FedEx began the FedEx 10kg and Oinstances of youthful arrogance aside, FedEx 25kg Box service in Nepal through good news is aplenty. There now There are many who still run that arose in trading routes between their local agents Everest De Cargo. exist a number of private-sector their conglomerates in a traditionally the Indian planis and Tibet. Few of Designed to do away with strings, scissors management colleges in and out of closed, command-and-control them started out running competitive and accompanying headaches, these boxes Kathmandu, enrolling more men “munshi-ji” style, forcing any entrepreneurial ventures that can be assembled and shipped in seconds. and women than ever in various employee with brains to quit within depended on market forces. As the Even better, with one flat price for each BBA, MBA and Executive MBA six months of starting. Others seem Nepali state asserted increasing control zone, expressing international box shipments are easy and affordable. programs. Two monthlies, The New to spend so much time at politically- over commercial activities, the Business Age and The Boss, have charged organisations like the businessmen’s success depended on OBJECTS OF DESIRE Gadgets and gizmos galore for the 21st century firmly established themselves in the FNCCI that you wonder—unless earning the blessings of the HMG home, all conveniently found under the same roof at Jumbo market, complementing each other’s they operate on extremely high levels bureaucrats and politicians of various Electronic’s new showroom on the first floor of Hotel Classic in business-related coverage. Profiles, of energy (which is doubtful)—how parties to get the monopoly licenses. New Road. Brand names jostle for attention in home even puff pieces, of young they ever find time to work as CEOs The name of the game, then, was appliances, entertainment systems and state-of-the-art entrepreneurs who have, on their of various companies that are not free-market capitalism with its communication media in what the company says is the own, started successful shopping exhaustively listed on their business attendant set of rules that ensure a biggest showroom of its kind in the kingdom. malls in Pokhara, coffee houses in cards. Still, the worst are those who, level playing field. Instead, the game Thamel or event management upon given a microphone anywhere consisted of fixing and finagling, RELAUNCHED Iceberg, the old staple from Himalayan companies regularly hit the business anytime, see themselves as quasi- which led to many legally-sanctioned Breweries was revamped and relaunched recently. The page of newspapers. Planning Commission members, and cartels and interest-groups. They, in strong beer is all set to hold its own against other On meeting, talking and start talking about national policies, turn, legitimised narrow business competitors, branding itself as “Freedom with Iceberg” and working with a slice of this urban when all that they can honestly do is interests even if it meant distorting aligning itself to youth and the great outdoors. younger section, you sense energy, talk about their own businesses. As the markets. Over the years, one optimism, an eagerness to learn about in the press for being, well, Narayan Manandhar, an economist result of all this has been that DIAL IN STYLE The new P900 from Sony Ericsson blurs the definition more and a can-do attitude. When captains of Nepali private-sector, who studies industrial relations, puts whenever you talk of ways to make of a mobile phone with an inbuilt video recorder. It’s smaller, faster, you ask them who their role models in inspire neither respect nor it, “If you really want to appreciate markets competitive and transparent simpler and more flexible than ever before. Based on the open symbian business are, you hear them citing the confidence—as far as younger the working style of even an HMG in Nepal, it’s these old but politically platform, it is a high quality phone providing full names of Indian or American businesspeople are concerned. There office, try working for one of powerful businessmen who are PDA/ organiser functions as well as a good gaming businesspeople, but rarely do they are, for instance, well-known traders, these captains of private-sector usually the most vocal ones to oppose experience. It is also possible to view and edit word make mention of any older non- who, upon being blacklisted by banks, industries first.” market-friendly ideas. and Excel files, and present Power point presentations, which can easily be saved on a family-member Nepali businessmen. rush to rally others of their ilk for To be sure, most of these elder In this context, one strategy for Memory Stick Duo and transferred to a PC. The That, however, should not come collective protection. Then there are businessmen have evolved to this coming years is clear: for any market- fabulous P900 is available at Ocean Computer in as a surprise. those who have long been notorious for present avatar for a reason. reform measure to succeed in Nepal, New Road. With a few remarkable never paying their ad agencies, Historically, many of them started as the fears of the old should be allayed exceptions, most elderly Nepali suppliers and, in some cases, even traders who could milk the while the optimism of the young businessmen who get written up employees for long periods. advantages of arbitrage opportunities need to be built upon. t 8 100 YEARS OF FLYING

Ultrasover Pokhara ALL PICS MIN BAJRACHARYA

in POKHARA ○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○MIN BAJRACHARYA

hey say there are six seating is getting ready for the first directions in Nepal: north, flight of the day. As the fog lifts, south east, west, up and pilot Alexander Maximov, who is a Tdown. And one of the most vertical Tupolev engineer in his spare time, places in Nepal is Pokhara. From guns the engine and asks Pokhara barely 700m above sea level, the tower to taxi out. “Hotel Charlie, Microlights, paragliders terrain rises within 35km to the cleared to taxi out to runway 04," and skydivers encroach over summit of Machapuchre at nearly replies Debendra KC, air traffic 7,000m. Very few places on earth controller at the tower, who by now, Pokhara airspace. have such a perpendicular is used to the early morning flights topography. of the microlights in his airspace. And yet, what Nepal has The cockpit looks like a promoted so far is only a horizontal motorcycle, it even has a rear-view Pokhara with the lake and the mirror. The only difference is that it reflection of the mountains on it. also has an altimeter, vertical speed There is a whole new Pokhara that a indicator and a compass. Maximov lucky few have discovered: its air goes through the pre-flight check space. Today, almost by default, this which involves nudging the control tourist town is fast developing into a bar to see if the big kite-like wing centre for aerial sports, as ultralights, above us is ok. Cleared for take off, paragliders, skydivers and freefallers the noise of the engine behind us take to the skies in growing numbers. rises to a whine, the craft hurtles down the runway and takes off effortlessly. Ultralight Pretty soon, Pokhara is hidden The pioneer was Avia Club Nepal in haze and the Annapurnas rise up which started taking tourists on to the north in a gigantic wall of ice microlights (hang-gliders with and rock. Maximov puts the craft on engines attached) for sightseeing a slight bank over Phewa Lake, and flights from Pokhara airport in 1996. we notice two other ultralights It was tough in the beginning: the circling the Peace Stupa like project initially ran into turbulence as dragonflies. government agencies found one The plane is surprisingly easy reason or other to block it. Natasha to fly, push the bar down means Shrestha, founder and director of you go up, push it up and you go Avia remembers those days well. “For down. Move it left, you go right and two years were just doing proving move it right and go left. It’s flights and trying to convince the opposite of flight controls on a big government it was a good idea, but plane. Leveling off at 6,000ft, the finally we convinced them it would twin peaks of Machapuchre heave Yak yeti add to Pokhara’s draw as a tourist into view: a more elegant and destination,” she recalls. Today, Avia dignified peak is hard to find on gets full cooperation from the Civil this planet. You never get tired of Aviation Authority of Nepal and the looking at it. Ministry of Tourism. At 45 knots, the speed is just Getting the operating license was right, and the wind chill factor isn’t the first hurdle, the second was unbearable. As winter sets in, it is a ensuring that the seasonal flights good idea to wear a down jacket and would be a viable business gloves. This is just like riding a proposition. But marketing efforts are motorbike on a winter morning on finally paying off. Despite a tourism the Ring Road, the only difference is slump this year, Avia logged more that you are flying 4,000ft above the than 210 hours of flights in its three ground. We pass Sarangkot below ultralights this month—nearly five us, and notice a Jomsom-bound times the normal for this season. Dornier has just taken off At the hangar in Pokhara airport, and is straining to get over Avia’s brand new Russian-made Ghodepani Pass. tandem ultralight with side-by-side The descent is slow and 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 NEPALI TIMES #170 9

Jorge,Skydiving a Canadian of Venezuelan over descent Pokhara (right) has become the first person to make a freefall from an ultralight over Pokhara during a test flight on 19 October. The skydiver went up on an ultralight which climbed to 7,000ft above Pokhara, and once the pilot switched off the engine he jumped off freefalling for nine seconds before opening his parachute. On ground to receive Nepal’s pioneer skydiver was the manager of Pokhara airport, Sagar Man Pradhan, and other dignitaries from the Civil Aviation Authority.

while. Soon, we are about 500ft thermals. They take three years to above the takeoff point, at eye-level train, and a National Geographic film with Sarangkot. Below us are the about ‘para-hawking’ in Nepal From l-r: In formation with phosphorescent ripples on the received honourable mention at the Machapuchre in the out later this month. Avia’s passenger through pre-flight lake, and beyond the ever-present film festival in St Hilaire in France. background, paraglider ultralights were used for shooting instructions. (There is one massif of Annapurna South. We ask Rajesh if he would ever coming in for a landing above scenes in Pokhara. embarrassing question about how Unlike in the ultralight, here it like to be an airline pilot. He shakes Phewa, Rajesh Bomjan takes much I weigh, which I deflect.) We is completely quiet, except for the his head: “This is real freedom, here off his harness, Natasha go through tips on how to run rush of wind. Pilots shout to each you are face-to-face with nature, you Shrestha at Pokhara airport. Paragliding downhill for the take off, then how other, and as we get closer to the have to know about wind patterns how Our next stop is Sarangkot, heading to hit the ground running during ground we can even hear the they behave along mountain slopes, no up in a jeep is a lot clumsier than landing at the bottom of the sound of dogs barking and buses two flights are the same.” Rajesh has smooth, no ears popping. We are Avia into a flying school for flying, but we need to get up there so mountain. climbing the highway. The already logged 3,500 hours on cleared to land and swoop down ultralights that will also draw foreign we can jump off the mountain on a So we sit in our hammock-like material in the parachute makes a paragliders and says there is enormous towards the runway, the flare is quick trainee pilots because there is nothing paraglider. One of the pilots is another seats and start running like mad rustling sound as we come in for a potential in Nepal to develop this and thrillingly close to the asphalt, else like it in the region. Air sports Russian named Ilya Milkov who is down the slope. Suddenly, without landing on a road on the banks of sport. Pilots needs to have at lest 500 followed by a slight squeal of tyres. groups involved in ultralight, trained as a MiG-21 pilot in the even realising it, we are airborne, the Phewa, there is a final swoop hours and a basic instructor’s course Natasha Shrestha’s future plans paragliding and hot air balooning are Russian Air Force. We ask him a silly held up by the updraft coming up and yes the eagle has landed. before they are allowed to take are to expand the fleet of Avia’s also forming the Air Sports question: what is the pilot of an Sarangkot. This is the closest one Rajesh immediately unfastens passengers. t ultralights to include one with floats so Association of Nepal to promote the advanced supersonic jet doing riding gets to real flying: no sound, just the my harness in case the wind picks pilots can use the lake to pick up industry. rush of wind circling to catch the me up again, he gathers up his sail Ultralights: thermals under a parachute in Avia Club Nepal, Pokhara 061-525192 passengers for sightseeing flights. She Avia is also planning to start a Nepal? Milkov is a man of few thermals. Rajesh takes the paraglider and we go into the nearby [email protected] is running into some bureaucratic Young Fliers Club on 17 December words: “It’s fun.” towards where he sees a group of Mayadevi Lodge for refreshments. www.avianepal.21.bc.net opposition to this idea, but she is used to commemorate the first flight by Rajesh Bomjan and his brother, griffon vultures soaring on the Rajesh has adopted some raptors to that. Her son Stefan is now thermals. We go round and round that he has trained to fly with him Paragliding: the Wright brothers 100 years ago Binod, are two Nepali pilots licensed Sunrise Paragliding, Pokhara 061-521174 working on developing Pokhara as a to encourage young Nepalis to be to fly paragliders. Rajesh takes his just like the birds, rising all the to guide paragliders towards [email protected] venue for international ultralight interested in aviation. Avia's championships. Avia has already Deepti Gurung is working with become a member of the Federation schools to get students from Grade Aeronautique Inernationale (FAI) and 8 and above to join in a pro- last year, it undertook the first-ever gramme that will include familiari- cross country ultralight flight in Nepal sation of aviation concepts and an from Pokhara to Bharatpur and Meghauli. “If we can get cooperation ultralight flight. from the government, Nepal will be a Ultralighting in Nepal may get sought-after destination for ultralight a lot of publicity after the championships,” says Stefan Shrestha. Bollywood blockbuster Love in Mother and son also plan to turn Nepal starring Sonu Nigam comes 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 10 WORLD NEPALI TIMES #170 ANALYSIS by JOSEPH E STIGLITZ

ittingly or unwittingly, individuals do things that injure other individuals. If corporations had a For society to function,Corporate it must unreliability provide individuals with incentives conscience, they would act, Wnot to do so, through rewards and punishments, regulations and fines. without○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ being forced to do so. By polluting the air, one harms It would only leave them deeper Reconciliation process may or may anyone who breathes. The legal in debt. not work to heal South Africa’s system has an important role here. Today, we believe that wounds, but if corporations are to If I injure you, you should be able individuals, corporations and be provided with incentives to do to sue me. institutions should be held the right thing, they must now pay Of course, individuals have a accountable for their actions. But the price for the profits that they moral responsibility not to injure what should that mean, if it is to reaped from that abhorrent system. others. Indeed, this is perhaps the be more than rhetoric? For a If corporations had a conscience, central moral imperative—do unto start, it means debt forgiveness: they would act, without being forced others as you would have them do international lenders may not be to do so: they would estimate their unto you, and do not do unto others able to compensate fully the profit from the Apartheid system as you would not have them do damage caused when their money and pay it back to the country, with unto you. helps maintain odious autocrats interest. For Apartheid’s demise has Immanuel Kant, with his in power, but at least the victims not solved the country’s deep categorical imperative, provided the should not be burdened by a economic problems, including an philosophical foundations for those defective, and particularly an unsafe corporate responsibility should royalties actually go to the disastrous financial legacy. unemployment rate in excess of who wanted an alternative basis for product, are held liable for the mean for our legal system. In government, rather than to corrupt In South Africa, it was 25 percent. ethics than that provided by consequences. Firms are in a far World War II, German officials, other oil companies arguably the economic pressure So far, there appears to be no religious aphorisms. But modern better position than consumers to corporations were all too willing to refused to go along. brought by sanctions which rush to make amends in South society cannot and does not simply assess the safety of their product; we profit from the slave labor of those In the Congo, the profits of eventually brought down the Africa, and, as elsewhere, the rely on individuals doing the all benefit knowing that our legal in concentration camps, and Swiss mining companies helped maintain racist Apartheid system; but by evidence is meager that the corporate “right” thing. It provides carrots system has provided corporations banks were happy to pocket the the late President Mobuto of Zaire, the same token, it was economic conscience runs very deep. But it is and sticks. with incentives to pay attention to gold of Jewish victims of Nazi now the Congo, in power for support from the outside— to be hoped that the West’s legal Motivating corporations to do the safety of what they produce. terror. Recent suits have made decades—enabling him to pillage including loans from systems will provide an alternative the right thing is even more Similarly, environmental laws them at least pay back some of what his country, allegedly facilitated by multinational banks—which kept recourse, one that will not only difficult. After all, corporations make firms liable for their toxic they took. the secret bank accounts that are the the system going for so long. partially redress past injustices, but don’t have a conscience; it is only wastes, and many countries, More recently, oil companies specialty of countries like Much the same may be true provide incentives for corporations the conscience of those who run the including the US, have enshrined have demonstrated little conscience Switzerland, the Cayman Islands about Iraq during the 1990s. to think twice before profiting from corporation, and as America’s recent the principle that “polluters pay,” in providing money that feeds and Cyprus. World Bank and IMF Those who contributed to brutal regimes in the future. t corporate scandals have made all too that is, companies must pay for the guerrilla movements—so long as money also helped sustain Mobuto. maintaining Apartheid—and (© Project Syndicate) clear, conscience often takes a damage they cause. It is a matter their own interests are preserved. These institutions knew, or they especially those who did not backseat to profits. both of incentives and social justice. When, in Angola, one brave firm, should have known, that their loans adhere to the sanctions after the Joseph E Stiglitz is Chief Economist America’s legal system makes In other realms, however, we are BP, wanted to do the right thing by and aid was not going to help the UN approved them—should be and Senior Vice President at the sure that firms that produce a only beginning to think about what trying to make sure that oil country’s desperately poor people. held accountable. The Truth and World Bank. 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 ASIA NEPALI TIMES #170 11 COMMENT by PRAFUL BIDWAI

ndia has rarely witnessed the rallying of its public in defence of the freedom of expression as it is seeing today in the case of The Hindu newspaper, which last week faced a harsh punishment of 15 days’ jail for its journalists for the ‘breach of privilege’ of the Tamil Nadu Legislative IAssembly. Scores of journalists’ unions and media organisations, publishers’ associations, professional bodies, political parties, civil society groups and ordinary citizens all over Aof The Hindu editor-in-chiefpressOld N Ram laws for deployment must of the befor revised tofreedom open new frontiers.known until recently for its liberal interpretation of the the country protested the sentencing of four senior Central Industrial Security Force for its protection because constitution, have recently used the power of contempt to journalists of the 125 year-old, highly respected, multi- the state police cannot be trusted to be impartial. reprimand and censor writers and journalists or curb free, edition newspaper headquartered in Chennai. Jayalalithaa’s platform is likely to be a damp squib unfettered expression of views and opinions. There is clearly The punishment, ostensibly for carrying in April because Ram has withdrawn his request. In any case, the a need to reform this antiquated law. Equally urgent is the reports and comments derogatory to the prestige of the state Tamil Nadu police’s record is poor. Last Friday, it turned imperative to subject India’s many harsh and repressive assembly, has been widely seen as grossly unfair and aimed up at The Hindu offices to arrest four journalists and the laws to rights-based scrutiny. at muzzling free expression. Tamil Nadu Chief Minister paper’s publisher in keeping with the assembly’s order, but The Hindu case has greatly raised public awareness of Jayaram Jayalalithaa, who engineered the breach-of-privilege without arrest warrants. The following day, they illegally the right to free expression. But the right to life is at least as motion based on British colonial precedents, suffered a big tried to intercept Ram’s car in another state, Karnataka. The fundamental, if not more basic. It cannot be compromised legal setback on Monday when India’s Supreme Court likely effect of the attempt to gag and punish media criticism for frivolous reasons or on mere suspicion of guilt. Yet stopped the execution of the imprisonment order pending by invoking privilege will be to open up for debate a range India has at least 20 laws on its statute books that further hearings. of issues in India: the notion of privilege, the nature of the substantially infringe that right. They presume a suspect to The breach-of-privilege concept goes back to the fundamental right to the freedom of expression in be guilty before trial and allow for prolonged detention. Middle Ages, when the still-weak British Parliament was democracy; attempts to restrict it through the judicial power Such laws exist not only in border states such as Punjab, defending itself against an all-powerful monarchy. In the of contempt of court, the need to extend freedom to Kashmir and the north-east. Some have all-India contemporary sense, legislative privilege makes sense as a substantive areas other than expression—and hence a review application. Such laws encourage the police to evade means of protecting ministers of parliament from civil of repressive laws that sit ill with the right to life and limb. gathering evidence and prosecuting criminals. They sit ill arrest, guaranteeing freedom of speech and debate in Such a debate is welcome, indeed long overdue in with democratic rights. parliament, and preserving its status as the exclusive India. India is of course a robust electoral democracy, which Among the most controversial of these laws as the representative of the people. In the Hindu case, there was has thrived on the participation of millions of people who Prevention of Terrorism Act, enacted in the wake of the 9/ no evidence whatever of any attempt to insult or malign the were for centuries excluded from public life on account of 11 attacks. This imposes harsh penalties on suspected legislature or lower its dignity. The paper’s reports were caste and class. But free expression, also a major component terrorists and accomplices and in some cases, reverses the sober, serious and unobjectionable. of democracy, is hemmed in and restricted in India by the burden of proof. One can only hope the current spirited Jayalalithaa first tried to give the whole issue a regional censorship of the market, by growing forces of intolerance, debate on The Hindu leads to a revision of these obnoxious or state-versus-central government character to mobilise especially of the Hindu-nationalist variety, and by the laws. t (IPS) Tamil-chauvinist sentiment. In particular, she objected to judiciary. A resplendent Jayalalithaa. the federal home ministry’s willingness to grant the request Many Indian courts, including the Supreme Court, Praful Bidwai is a New Delhi-based columnist.

in DHAKA AIN○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ TAHMINA hen it comes to going to Malaysia, ‘Dui Nombore Jaoa’, which meansMigrant ‘going abroad illegally’ is a phrase much used in these villages of Sirajganj district in northern Bangladesh. So is ‘Golakata’ or ‘picture-change passport’, that is, a false passport with its photograph replaced. The dreams of working in Malaysia, nurtured and Wattempted by nearly all the men here, are rife with stories of being cheated by ‘dalals,’ the middlemen or brokers. The Malaysia craze began here in the early 1990s and continued despite the Malaysian government’s freeze on intake of Bangladeshi workers 1996 onwards, a freeze that was just lifted last month. By official counts, there are now some 113,000 Bangladeshi skilled workers in Malaysia, who had been extended a fresh five-year tenure last year. Non- government sources maintain that undocumented workers included, the number would be no less than 300,000. “I went in 1994, illegally, through a middleman,” says Mohammad Khasru Alam of Balarampur village. “On reaching Malaysia, I was taken to jail immediately.” Nine-and-a-half-months later, Khasru was sent home straight from jail. He returned to Bangladesh penniless but wants to go again, especially now Malaysia has ended the freeze on Bangladeshi workers. Mohammad Abu Siddique went to Malaysia on a proper passport and managed to get a good job. He had previously worked in Saudi Arabia. “The pay there is much less,” says Siddique. From 1994 Kabir regularly sent home between 25,000 takas ($428) and 13,000 takas ($223 ) every other month, which his father wisely invested . Despite being cheated of a huge amount later, Kabir has not been badly off since his return. Very few of the returnees have had that comfort. t

Mohammad Enamul Haque and fellow Bangladeshi male workers in Kuala Lumpur built the Petronas Towers, the tallest building in the world. They live in nearby containers. 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 12 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS SELECTED MATERIAL TRANSLATED EVERY WEEK FROM THE NEPALI PRESS NEPALI TIMES #170

‘Aja ko Kura’ hosted by Kiran Pokhrel the country, and we have to ask ourselves how we people, and to the government. A representative once because of the Maoist insurgency. But after 9/11 the Radio Sagarmatha, 11 November can provide basic services to the people. Are we elected, if he isn’t a convicted criminal, is still world is moving towards US-led militarisation and “The peoplegoing to wait for an ideal democratichave process to be accountablebeen to the people and it is pettyorphaned.” to argue that Nepal is also affected by it. The government is trying Excerpts from a radio talk program with restored, while the people are facing an emergency we are not responsive to the peoples’ needs just to get the DDCs to work and automatically get the Sanjay Adhikari of the UN’s Participatory because of the breakdown of services? because we were not elected. Unless we get over VDCs activated, but I don’t think the VDC chairmen District Development Programme (PDDP), the There has been a lot of donor pressure on the the power struggles and look at how we can deliver are in a position to go back to their villages. newly-nominated DDC chairmen of reinstatement of local elected bodies since the days development, nothing is going happen. The Kathmandu and Humla, Bikram Thapa and of Sher Bahadur Deuba. Since bureaucrats could not government is saying, ok it is impossible to hold Sanjay Adhikari: We have to look at what are the Jeevan Shahi, and Kiran Bhandari of Kantipur run the local bodies properly, the donors’ stand is elections now, let’s at least get some development alternatives in the current political scenario. You newspaper. that if elections are not possible, let’s at least bring moving, why not help them? I agree, nominating have to see this as the best option, under the as many of the previously-elected officials back to representatives to local bodies is not the best circumstances, to bring relief to the people through a Jeevan Shahi: Nothing is happening in the run the VDCs and DDCs. solution, but under the circumstances it is the best the participatory process. This is better than the vacuum districts, the people have been orphaned. The We all know things are bad, we can’t go to the government can do. But if we are doing this only to that existed last year. Even if they are nominated, government had to step in to provide relief to the villages. I am from a district which is best known for show the donors that something is happening, then the representatives are local people who are still people, it had to act. In the two years since the food shortages. I believe that despite all obstacles, I’m not very happy with it. accountable to the citizens of the villages and DDCs were dissolved I have been in my district we can get small things done for the people. But districts from where they are. We are concerned trying to do my best to push projects we initiated, despite the security situation, we can’t give up, we Kiran Bhandari: The process is important. It is about how support from the donor community can like the Hilsa-Simikot road, or our nutrition have to try to do what little we can. We will start important whether a representative is elected or not. be most effectively used during this period of programs. The people’s needs don’t wait for the rebuilding, trying to work with whoever is there on If you are not elected, there is no accountability deficient political decision-making. The questions politicians to get their act together. the ground. We can never stop trying, we can’t let towards the people, you are accountable to the should not be about whether or not it is possible to Of course, the best option would be for us to our country self-destruct. person who nominated you. The situation on the get work done to reduce poverty, but about what stand in local elections and obtain the peoples’ ground is that outside the capital and some districts, we can do concretely to deliver development to the mandate. But there is an extraordinary situation in Bickram Thapa: I am accountable to both the development has ground to a halt. We all know this is grassroots where it is needed most.

activities. “It would be Locals in Liping are complaining questioned or stopped by Nepali serve your nation,” he told me. participate in our mass interaction

○○○○○ ○○○○○○○○○○○ irresponsible for the government to about the continuous mistreatment immigration, but Nepalis are With that, I mustered all my program. It was there that Mahat ChalphalCabin, 9 Novemberpressure close down the restaurants,” says a of Nepalis by Chinese soldiers, harassed with guards manhandling courage to take up this challenge agreed that VDC secretaries would restaurateur who says the NGO despite proper documents that even those with legitimate papers. and started work two months later. not be mistreated. Soon, all 30 All cabin restaurants in the Valley Maiti Nepal pressurised the should allow them to enter Khasa. “At times, I have been refused It was a tragic beginning. On my VDC offices were back in operation. have been recommended for closure government into taking such an This action is a violation of the entry,” says Shiba Kumar Katuwal, first day, a grenade left behind by Things were getting better. to the government by a research irrational step. Nepal-Tibet Treaty that allows chief of Tatopani Customs Office. the Maoists accidentally killed two But after I reached the Maoist- team which says these places The owners, who have been both Chinese and Nepali citizens “It’s difficult to comprehend why children. The people, already affected Tatopani, I received exploit young waitresses to paying more than Rs 8 million in who possess entry papers to travel this is happening. Our entry to desperate, were in despair. The CDO unpleasant news of a minor ‘entertain’ clients. In response, taxes annually, are willing to bring within 30km from the borders for China depends on their mood.” office building had been destroyed, encounter between the security restaurant owners say they are in improvements that would the duration of a day. “I don’t Last week, a dozen Nepali Maoist corpses still floated in the river. forces and the Maoists. The ready to remove all female staff to include a minimum salary of Rs understand why they are acting like journalists visiting China were held It was a difficult start. government had sent the army to improve the atmosphere in their 2,200, uniforms, removal of privacy this,” says Shiva Ram Gelal, chief up for almost an hour near the The first thing I did was to run a relief program and the rebels businesses. curtains, bigger cabin rooms and of Tatopani Immigration Office, gate, especially after the Chinese assemble the local people and wanted to run the army out. The The government’s decision will lower dividing walls. They also plan who personally went through a guards found out their occupation. politicians from all parties. With secretaries fled their posts and are be far-reaching. Closing down cabin to provide literacy programs for the similar experience at the hands of “You need visas,” they were told. their consensus, we used the state now back in Khalanga, the district restaurants will only jeopardise the waitresses and punish those who the Chinese. A lot of Chinese can fund of Rs 1 million to rebuild the headquarters. livelihood of these girls who could promote immoral activities. be seen travelling inside Nepal CDO office, the District Police The Maoists are spreading to end up jobless and penniless. without any papers. They are never Jumla,a○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ year later Office and the Regional Police Post. terror in the villages and we have

With no alternative, most will be Shyam Krishna Budhathoki, CDO With the remaining money, we not been able to reach every VDC. ○○○○○○○ forced into prostitution, Gatekeepers○○○○○○○○○ of Jumla in Rajdhani, 12 November renovated Chanda Nath School and But things will get better once the exacerbating the situation. Samacharpatra, 10 November temple. After that came the task of government dispatches additional At present, cabin restaurants JUMLA – Last November the managing our local government armed police forces. Right now, the are registered as eateries and don’t LIPING – Sabin Das Shrestha people of Khalanga went through a bodies. local people live under extreme fear, fall into any specific category. could hardly wait to reach Khasa to great tragedy when the Maoists Three VDC secretaries had especially after new rumours that Around 1,200 restaurants are shop for clothing. But when he killed my predecessor, two police resumed work during the ceasefire, the Maoists are planning an on the registered with the government, tried to enter through the Tatopani officers and dozens of army but they left soon again after the district headquarters. As for me, I with 80 percent of the 30,000 border area, Chinese border personnel. I had just been rebels attacked one of them. The live in a government quarter waitresses working in cabin security guards tore his immigration promoted to the post of under local administration work stopped guarded by six civilian policemen. I restaurants. Owners who run a papers and beat him up. “All I secretary at the ministry. My completely. So, I sent a letter to a have let behind my loved ones, my clean business blame the wanted to do was buy some goods,” superior persuaded me to fill the local Maoist commander to seek his wife and children for my job. I am government for not introducing says Shrestha who was slapped post of Jumla CDO. “This is the support. It wasn’t long before the not running away, no matter what strict laws to control immoral around and made to turn back. time to prove that you can really Maoists sent Angad Mahat to happens.

WordsRishikesh Dahal in worth Space Time, 9 November

Religion is a way of life for Rimpoche Tenzing Jangbu Sherpa of Tengboche. Although daily rituals at the monastery keep him occupied, a year ago he began working on a Sherpa dictionary. He met two Koreans working on a similar project last year, and while he appreciated their efforts, the rimpoche worried that words would be distorted by foreigners who may not have the necessary grip of the language. It spurred him to begin his own Sherpa dictionary. “I have already finished the basic work,” says the chief abbot, pointing to files where he has a handwritten collection of Sherpa words.The rimpoche is pleased with a computer a local politician donated for word processing. He knows he has a bigger challenge to face—dealing with linguists. “That’s the tough part,” says the rimpoche. “There are no easy meanings of Sherpa words in English and Nepali.” He is aware that the dictionary may not recieve formal status without endorsement Tap wall: Constitution of Nepal, 1990 from linguists. “I have read Sherpa books for a long time but only recently realised how Madhab Kumar Nepal: No matter how hard I try, I can’t squeeze out a single drop, Girija babu ! difficult translations can be.” Once the work is finished, even non-Sherpas will understand the Samacharpatra, 9 November language. Known for his work in environmental conservation, the rimpoche is now working at preserving the integrity of his people. He is concerned that a day may come when the QUOTE OF THE WEEK Sherpas will have forgotten their language and will need to turn to what foreigners have put together, but his greatest worry is a lack of funds. So far he has managed to make ends meet “We urge the agitating parties not to doubt our commitment towards the multiparty system.” from what the monastery receives for religious ceremonies. “This won’t work longterm and I - Prachanda in www.cpnm.org, 13 November worry about how I’ll finish the dictionary,” he says. 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 HISTORY AND CULTURE NEPALI TIMES #170 13

biscuits and could not part with it. The major asked us if we could Man Bahadur Rai and the rest of the retreating get a goat. Once again we rushed StretchingGurkhas are plaguedthree with hunger ascans they cross of rice to the same old man. He said the into India over the Naga hills from Burma. They rest of the village wouldn’t find an unlikely source of help in an old Naga understand why, but there was a man who speaks some Burmese. The men stretch goat in the village. out three cans of rice to feed 375 hungry The major agreed to buy the soldiers. Rai’s story is part of Lahurey ko Katha, animal. I can’t recollect how much we paid for the uncastrated a collection of memoirs based on oral testimonies goat with a long beard. I got a of 13 retired Gurkha soldiers. Translated from Naga boy to carry it to our place, Nepali by Dev Bahadur Thapa for this fortnightly for which he received a rupee. I column. informed the major about the cost of the goat and offered to return e wished there was for three days and were close among 375 soldiers. Each man the balance. He, however, refused someone who could to dying. would get no more than a fistful. and asked us to keep it. He asked understand Burmese. The shabby Naga told us a We hit upon the idea of making us to slaughter the animal and Despite our total ignorance of shop in the next village used to rice soup so we asked the old man skin it. All he asked for was a leg, the local language, we went into sell rice, but wasn’t sure if the fellow for a big pot. He the rest we cleaned, cut and Wa Naga village. Luckily, we met shopkeeper could spare any. We understood what we were trying prepared to cook. Invitation to Public Lecture an old fellow who had served as a implored him to help us. He to do. Being an ex-serviceman, he We had just one pot, now full reserve in the Burmese army. In shouted in his native language to took pity on our predicament. He of our rice soup, and wondered keeping with Naga customs, he his neighbour in the lower part of brought us a big earthen pot, how we’d cook the meat before Social Science Baha and Enabling State Programme/DfID was thoroughly filthy, making the village and reply came. The which was all he had. When I hitting upon the idea of grilling invite you to a public lecture him look older than what I fellow there had a small stock and looked inside, we saw something the meat although some men ate estimated was his age, about 45- was willing to part with it. had burned right into the pot. I it raw. We distributed the rice ‘Affirmative Action in Nepal: years-old. Our Naga friend asked his was scared the pot would break if soup equally among the men and Learning from Experiences Elsewhere’. “Sya, do you speak Burmese?” neighbour to bring everything he we cleaned it with water so we everyone relished this meal. That Speaking on the occasion will be I asked politely. “Sya” in Burmese had, which was about three milk scoured it with a stone to make it night we slept soundly. means “respectable man”. He cans of rice. Our expectation was somewhat cleaner after which we The following day we had Prof Neera Chandhoke from the University of Delhi replied that he understood a high but all we saw was a small poured in the rice and water. enough energy to walk with ease. and little. We told him we were package wrapped in black rags. Suddenly, while we were busy On our descent we discovered Prof Nico Steytler from the University of hungry and tired and asked if On closer inspection, we found making our rice, a captain, a thotne. It grows abundantly in the Western Cape, South Africa. some rice could be spared. He out that it was rice of dry land major and quite a few British high altitudes and tastes like said there was no rice on that variety. Since they have no soldiers accompanied by an seasoned bamboo shoot. We side of the hill. We told him we husking device they put paddy on Assamese porter came into the stopped and ate to our full Time: 10.00 am were dying with hunger and asked stone and beat it with a wooden village. The major was Gurkha satisfaction, but thotne has an Date: Tuesday, 18 November, 2003 him what their staple diet was. stick. He charged us Rs 15 or 20 and enquired about our wellbeing. intoxicating effect so we all Place: The Russian Cultural Centre, Kamalpokhari He replied that they made gruel for the lot. We told him we had some rice. became weak. Nevertheless, we Please check out www.himalassociation.org/baha for background so we begged him to get some for The next problem was They said with a smile that they went on crawling. That evening information on the lecture and profiles of the speakers. us because we had eaten nothing distributing three cans of rice had only a packet or two of we slept on empty stomachs. t 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 14 CITY NEPALI TIMES #170 ABOUT TOWN BOOKWORM

FESTIVALS AND EXHIBITIONS The Naxalites and their Ideology Rabindra Ray v Fate and Freedom Unique handmade carpets by John Collins till 23 November at Oxford University Press, 2002 Siddhartha Rs 250 Art Gallery. 4218048 This second edition of a comprehensive sociological analysis of the Naxal movement situates v ?! an installation on Nepal’s present situation by Ashmina Ranjit organised by Nepal Association of Fine Arts (NAFA), Royal Nepal Academy. NAFA, Naxal at itself within the contexts of Bengali society, strains of Indian communism and the peasantry. It 12PM on 15 November. distinguishes between the movement’s ideological position and its actions, relating Naxal v Living Culture by Krishna Gopal Ranjit 11AM - 6 PM, except Monday, from 16-30 ideology to Nietzsche’s philosophical tradition of Nihilism. The author presents a vivid November at Gallery Nine, Lazimpat. portrayal of the social and cultural heritage of Naxalism. v Everest Climb Exhibition of Everest photographs taken by Ang Chhering till 18 November at Rum Doodle Restaurant & Bar, Thamel. 4425107 Social Suffering Arthur Kleinman, Veena Das, Margaret Lock (eds) EVENTS Oxford University Press, 2000 v Himalayan White Water Challenge 2003 at Bhotekoshi River. Organised by Nepal Association of Rafting Agents, 23 -25 November. Details: Nepal Tourism Board, 256909-140 Rs 345 v Sur, symphony and sounds of valour, more than just military tunes. The Indian Embassy presents an Social Suffering takes in the human consequences of war, famine, depression, disease, torture— Indian Army Orchestra, 5PM on 20 November at BICC. Passes available at the Indian Embassy from resulting from political, economic and institutional power—and also human responses to social 14 November. problems as they are influenced by those forms of power. This cross-disciplinary investigation v Friendship Everest Sky race 16km from Namche Bazar to Thame, Khumbu. Organised by Cho-Oyu challenges traditional research and policies, allowing us to see the 20th century in a new frame. It Trekking, 18 November. provides new perspectives on social suffering and should prove timely to on-going examinations v AWON presents The Masquerade Ball 14 November at Hotel Yak & Yeti. Rs 3,500 per person, of India’s partition. Rs 6,000 for couples. v Fair Trade Con-Ex craft exhibition and conference from 14-16 November, Royal Nepal Academy. Courtesy: Mandala Book Point, Kantipath, 4227711, [email protected] v Magic show at Belle Momo 1-5PM on 14 November at Belle Momo, Darbar Marg.

MUSIC v Abhaya & The Steam Injuns every Friday at Fusion, Dwarika’s. 4479488 v Orient Express Latin Jazz band at the Rox Garden 7PM on 14, 15 November, Hyatt Regency Kathmandu. Rise and shine DRINK Get ready for a brand new day with v Winter Warmers at the Sumeru Bar with 25 percent discount between 6-8PM at Godavari Village Resort. 5560675 BBC World Today. v Festival of tropical black rum drinks and great steaks at K-too! Beer & Steakhouse, Thamel. 4433043 v Cosmic Cocktails and chic home furnishings at Mitra Lounge Bar and Mausam homestyle boutique. Every morning on 102.4 FM from 5:45-6:15 AM Above Cafe Mitra, Thamel. 4259015 Daily 2045-2115 BBC FOOD g]kfnL ;]jf v Bring your wine along every Thursday and Sunday and buy our dinner. Himalatte Café, Thamel. Daily 2245-2300 BBC v 5th Momo Mania on 22 November at The Bakery Café, Baneshwor. 16 exquisite varieties of momos, fun g]kfnL ;]jf competitions, games and live performances. Tickets available at all Bakery Café outlets. Radio Sagarmatha v Mediterranean Food Promotion till 16 November, dinner only at Soaltee Crowne Plaza, Kathmandu. P.O. Box 6958, Bakhundole, Lalitpur, Nepal Sunday Brunch at Dhokaima Café, Patan Dhoka, 11AM to 3PM. 5543017 Tel: ++977-1-545680, 545681, v Fax: ++ 977-1- 530227 v Momos & More the finest momos in town now at Dhobighat. 5520692 E-mail: [email protected], v English Premier League, steaks and draft beer at K-too! Beer & Steakhouse, Thamel. 4433043. on FM 102.4 www.radiosagarmatha.org /]l8of] ;u/dfyf v BBQ in the Shambala Garden everyday at 7PM. 4412999 v Roadhouse Cafe for wood fired pizzas and more. Opp St Mary’s School, Pulchowk. 5521755 Authentic Chinese food at Tian Rui Chinese Restaurant, Thapathali. 4243078 v Everything that has a beginning has an end, and so it is with the final v Traditional Nepali Thali lunch at Patan Museum Café, Patan Museum. 11AM-2.30 PM. Cocktails and snacks 2-7.30 PM. 5526271 instalment of The Matrix trilogy. Revolutions makes good on the genius brothers Wachowski’s promise to fuse Kafka, Alice in v Saturday BBQ Lunch at Club Himalaya Nagarkot. Rs 500 per person. 468008 Traditional Newari Thali at Kathmandu Guest House, Thamel. 4431632 Wonderland, the New Testament and The Wizard of Oz. If The v Matrix and Reloaded chartered the spiritual/prophetic path to the v Weekend Ban Bhoj at the Godavari Village Resort. Reservation recommended. 5560675. war between the machines and mankind, Revolutions delivers on v Krishnarpan ceremonial Nepali cuisine fit for a king. Reservation recommended. 4479488 their promise with bombastic action and climactic delight. Neo (Keanu GETAWAYS Reeves), Trinity (Carrie-Anne Moss) and Morpheus (Laurence v Microlight flying adventures with the Avia Club, Pokhara. Fishburne) maintain those intense, serious expressions throughout, v Shivapuri Heights Cottage 30 minutes from Kathmandu, at the edge of the Shivapuri Reserve. and Hugo Weaving reprises his role as Agent Smith with his usual Email: [email protected] sado-masochistic lopsided grin. Their roles are flawless, perfectly v Weekend Special for Rs 3000 per couple, Park Village Resort, Budhanilkantha. 4375280 planed but the mood is darker, more fatalistic, the stakes higher. v TGIF overnight package at Dwarika’s Hotel. 4479488 v Shivapuri Cottage, Dadagaon Nature, peace and luxury. 4354331 Email: [email protected] Call 4442220 for bookings. www.jainepal.com v Magnificent mountains and deluxe tents at Adventure Tented Camp & Country Kitchen. 4418992 JAI NEPAL CINEMA Email: [email protected] 12PM, 3PM, 6PM v Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, escape from Kathmandu to relax with very special offers. 01-4361500 v Escape to Godavari Special holiday package on half board for the entire family at Godavari Village Resort. 5560675 CLASSIFIED Visit Ground Zero Fine wines, designer candles, cards, gifts, stationery, wooden items, perfumes and more. Darbar Marg, opposite Hotel de KATHMANDU AIR QUALITY l’Annapurna With the overnight temperature in Kathmandu dipping into single digits, an inversion layer traps Visit Femilines, the Exclusive Lingerie Store for ladies undergarments, pollution, making the air quality worse. Throughout last week, the levels of PM10 (small particles nightwear, bathrobes and more. Ladies staff. Opposite Sajha Yatayat, Harihar that can enter the human body) in urban areas such as Putali Sadak, Patan hospital and Thamel Bhawan, Pulchowk. Tel: 547428 were higher that the national standard of 120 micrograms per cubic meter. Which means we were in the red zone right through, breathing particulates that are harmful to health. The average To Let: Rabibhawan area two storey house 4 bedrooms 2 bathrooms large 91.2 PM10 for last week was 183 microgrammes per cubic meter which is almost twice the level for kitchen dining living terrace lobby and porch and telephone. Contact: Roshani 4275180 last week. 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Tel 4428549 Hazardous >425 Patan H Thamel TU Bhaktapur Matsyagaun Putalisadak Get 10 % exclusive discount on the normal subscription rate of Himalmedia’s publication namely; Himal Khabarpatrika, Nepali Times and Wave magazine. NEPALI WEATHER by MAUSAM BEED Only at the Grihini Department Store limited,Baluwatar, Phone: 4415186 VIS -12-11-2003 09:00 GMT A trans-Himalayan low pressure area brought afternoon showers across For insertions ring NT Marketing at 5543333-36. the mountains of central Nepal this week, even dousing the northeastern parts of Kathmandu Valley and dusting snow down to 5,000m. This trough is being pushed out, and a few days of clear weather will last till the arrival of another weak westerly front currently seen over Afgthanistan in this satellite picture on Wednesday morning. The effect of this front may be more pronounced because of the pull of a depression over the Bay of Bengal. Expect cooler nocturnal temperatures with thicker fog in the mornings. KATHMANDU VALLEY Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue

25-09 25-09 22-10 24-08 24-08 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 FOOD NEPALI TIMES #170 15 EATING MY WORDS by BHATMARA BHAI

Artist Sarita Dangol hasLinking been painting heaven and earth trees—and only Kathmandu’s Tempura Top 10 trees—ever since she cares to remember. She explains: “What Spartan conditions have led to that would fascinate me when I first a higher overall standard of attempted landscapes were trees

Japanese○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○○ cuisine in the Valley. as a whole and in part: bent and fallen, our stoic Japanese restaurant owner Durbar Marg Koto. I normally stems that are coarse is forced to go just a little further follow the tempura with California and knotted, ‘off road’. The style of Kathmandu’s roll with crab (tinned, sadly). The branches crisscrossing and leaping out, and leaves drooping and Japanese cooking, to keep costs in rice in the sushi is as it should be, withered.” the affordable, is home-style. It is compacted but not overly sticky Little surprise then, that Sarita’s sixth solo exhibition, definitely not the more performance and the coat of sesame generous. ‘Creation and Creations’ concentrates on trees. However, art end of Japanese food. Spartan Yummy. although her subject remains constant, her style of conditions have led to a higher There are a number of things presentation has never been more different. Sarita has veered into a overall standard. Japanese food that makes Royal Hana Garden style that leans on expressionism with her old palette of blue and green giving way to warmer hues. compares well to other cuisines stand out from the crowd. Firstly Her earlier work portrayed trees conventionally in light and shade featuring in the Valley. the service is just right. And this as a nod to her formal art education. ‘Defining Trees’ in 2000 showed On my list of favourites is is enhanced by the ebullient the trunks in her paintings beginning to grow branches that swirl and Royal Hana Garden in Lazimpat. owner—a woman (!)—whose swarm up and down. ‘Trees and Trails’ in 2002 was, more or less, an Once nothing out of the ordinary, engaging and helpful style makes a extension of the preceding style but showed more maturity in the way she handled colour and created depth. Since then she has tried to it appears to have recently pulled its very refreshing change. break away from traditional conventions and her later work depicting he philosophy of Japanese fish-centric. Fish require more culinary socks up. I regularly The next difference is the tree trunks follow no prescribed logic and are a riot of colours. cuisine, when it first made than a drazzle or two of water. indulge. The garden is a peaceful delivery of complimentary treats in its entrance onto the global And fish from the sea, when asked, and relaxing place to eat, although between courses that guide the non- The poet Manjul, who was inspired by Sarita’s work, wrote: stage, was not immediately regularly express a preference for the tranquility is occasionally Japanese glutton into the wider T When the Earth wants appealing to the Bhatmara mind. A salt with their H2O. So unless shaken by the music that digs from world of Japanese food. There is life to meet the Heavens stress on balance, health and Nepal’s borders change a collection chosen by Mr Elevator. beyond sashimi. The meal begins it climbs up stepping on the branches of trees. modesty mixes uneasily with a fan of dramatically (a tectonic shift The last time I went, the Beatles with a complimentary salad of Bacchus. However, over the years, perhaps?) a tour of Nepal's fertile were being assaulted by a choir. A mouli, carrot and seaweed salad in When the Heavens want it has won itself an increasingly large coastline and its rich bounty will gentle friendly grumble will change an unusual but pleasing dressing. Of to meet the Earth space in my welcoming stomach. remain extant. the CD. the in-between course offerings that they descend stepping on the branches of trees. The simplicity is appealing. The For now, the nearest ‘fresh’ My choices when eating I have had, I particularly enjoy the This is the way they help, imperative of quality and fresh sea fish is to be found in the New Japanese are firmly conservative, the tongue with wasabi. The desert is the trees ingredients warms me further. And Road fish market. Bhatmara Bhai result, I believe, of my initial yet another unexpected final touch. introduce the sky and the land frankly the world is a better place has traveled the route from the trauma induced by their A bizarre sweet bean concoction for the ocean of wisdom that is plains of Bengal to the Valley. It is incomprehensible healthy eating duly arrives. Although my initial Sitting beneath a tree, you can send the Earth up seared tuna. (Please note, this is a long, dusty and hot. Those of a philosophy. Therapy has done reaction was one of fear, suspicion or invite the Heavens down frivolous food column. Any worried cavalier disposition should seek nothing to make me more and general sneering (I mean, sweet environmentalists, please grumble bright red gills and bright eyes. adventurous. To open the batting, a Heinz beans?) my taste buds but to Daniel Lak. I understand, from You have been warned. crisp tempura and a very cold beer disagreed. Don't dine with me. I you must have the language with which to talk to them perusing his columns, that he likes Consequently I have nothing make an amicable coupling. Royal want your beans. Sweet. (the trees can teach you that). serious grumbling and he likes his but admiration for the Japanese Hana Garden’s tempura (with Royal Hana Garden also has (Ajit Baral and Manjul’s poem translated by Maya Watson.) readers' grumbles.) restauranteurs of the Valley. They apologies to King Wenceslas) is hot springs, but did Bhatmara Bhai The problem facing Japanese are gritty, brave and indomitable light, crisp and even. In the brave these? Japanese philosophy ‘Creation and Creations’ by Sarita Dangol is on exhibition at NAFA, cooks in Nepal are basic issues of of spirit. No easy route to the Kathmandu Tempura Top 10 it is has its limits. Health and food Naxal till 28 November. supply. Japanese cuisine choice is diners pocket for them. In Nepal, only beaten by the tempura of the should not be mixed. t 14 - 20 NOVEMBER 2003 16 NEPALI TIMES #170 NEPALI SOCIETY

Under byMy Kunda Hat Dixit

ily Thapa wasLily something of singleof women thebeneficiaries haveValleysaved up for their future,” says 25- a child protégé: at 13 she formed their own groups. year-old Pramila Mandal from finished school, was 17 when Pramila Nepal is a 24-year-old Siraha, whose husband, a ecent archaeological excavations in the Ilegal Aliens To Be she graduated from college and from Sindhupalchok who heads a policeman, was killed by Maoists. Handigau area have brought to light many Deported Lwent on to become one of the group of 24 other young widows like Lily now considers her crusade antiquities, including fossilised remains of early youngest master’s students at Delhi herself. “Lily didi changed my life against widow discrimination her TimelessKERUNG: news Two Capucin monks who entered Nepal newspapers, which offer us a rare glimpse at everyday University. But her family asked her when I had lost all hope,” she says. life’s mission. She says: “All we want on tourist visas and have overstayed in the kingdom to return home because her dying Pramila is among those working in to do is to spread self-reliance and life in ancient Kathmandu. Transcribing selected have been apprehended by the Royal Immigration father, an ex-major general, wished a pressure group to ensure that hope so that single women can Rnews items from these prehistoric periodicals also give to see his eldest daughter married. women widowed by Maoists and the help themselves and their and Naturalisation Service and will soon be deported Lily put her studies on hold security forces receive families.” us an indication about how much progress we have to the Tyrolean Alps. t made in this country in the field of mass and was married to a medical compensation in their own name, (Naresh Newar) Their application for political asylum in Nepal doctor in the army. She juggled reversing a growing trend of other communications since those primitive times. have been rejected because the Immigration Court is motherhood to complete her relatives claiming Researchers have only recently finished deciphering not convinced that the hermits will face serious master’s in sociology from Padma compensation. “If it had not the following reports, and we can’t help but poke fun Kanya in Kathmandu. But her real been for Lily, my children religious persecution from a rival sect if they are sent education was about to begin. would not have money at the quaint news sense and laughable reportages of home. The brothers have decided to appeal the our forebears who euphemistically called themselves Widowed at 32 after her husband verdict, during which time they will be kept under died of a heart attack while on ‘journalists’ in that hoary epoch of our nation’s lock and key. peacekeeping duty in Iraq, she turbulent history. suddenly faced society’s stigma. Friends and family edged Lily out. And then, this editorial from the Gorkhaprattle: “For the first time in my life, I felt This exclusive news item was headlined in lonely and ostracised,” recalls Lily, The Uprising Nepal of 17 September, 1795: her old pain evident in her voice. Conquer now, But Lily didn’t let this demoral- ise her, or make her bitter. She Prince Of Transylvania rule later chose to confront head-on the Felicitated Continuing the blitzkrieg into Kumaon, our gallant social stigma that Nepali society KATHMANDU: King Girban Yuddha has sent a forces have routed the British at Nalapani. This is attaches to widows. She launched a message of felicitation to the Prince of Transylvania indeed heartening news, even though Col support group for women who have lost their husbands. “We always on the happy occasion of the National Day of Kirkpatrick of the East India Company, Pvt Ltd in ended up crying because we Transylvania. In the message His Majesty has Calcutta has, predictably, pooh-poohed it in an shared the same pain. We were extended his best wishes for the personal health and interview with Larry King. Reports reaching here living satis, burnt on the inside,” happiness of the Prince as well as prosperity for the from the front say a fierce battle had raged for days she says. It took a while for Lily to realise good citizens of Transylvania. The message further and the enemy was finally obliged to flee with its tail that society would offer neither pity stated: “As a matter of interest, we want to ask you if between its legs, although the exact position of its nor sympathy. The widows would it is also usual practice in your country to make tail has not yet been independently verified at have to unite and help each other messages of felicitation such as these headlines in your presstime. The question that must be asked is this: with financial independence and spiritual strength. Women for state-owned media? Because it is over here. Ciao.” now that Nepal stretches from Tista to Sutlej what Human Rights was set up in 1994 are we going to do with it? Readers are asked to and has been providing skills The Mahabharat Times outscooped all other papers submit their suggestions by Friday, and the author of training and savings and credit on 3 June, 1808 with this breaking news from the the best essay will be asked to run this country since schemes for women to set up small

the present rulers don’t seem to have a clue. businesses. The group is now active MIN BAJRACHARYA northern frontier: in 20 districts and nearly 700

CDO Regd No. 194/056/57 Lalitpur, Central Region Postal Regd. No. 04/058/59