VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of the Access Fund Spring 15/Volume 102 www.accessfund.org

The End of Vertical Times? You Decide. page 8

INSIDE SCOOP: BISHOP 6 THE FIGHT FOR HAWAII’S ACCESS 10 JOE’S VALLEY: A PERFECT STORM OF CLIMBER IMPACTS 11 AF Perspective Access Fund

ACCESS FUND BOARD Travis Herbert “I hate those ebooks! They cannot be the OF DIRECTORS Education Director 303.545.6772 x102 future! They may well be. I will be dead. OFFICERS [email protected] I won’t give a s$%t!” — The late Maurice Sendak, President, Mark Baum, VA Jason Keith Vice President, Kenji Haroutunian, CA Sr. Policy Advisor 303.818.2969 author of Where the Wild Things Are Treasurer, Ryan Gellert, Amsterdam [email protected] Secretary, Alex Kutches, WA he world of media and information is changing, and we need to be willing Zachary Lesch-Huie National Affiliate Director & to change with it. When I first started as the Executive Director of the BOARD MEMBERS Southeast Regional Director T Access Fund in 2007, MySpace was in decline and Facebook was just Elaina Arenz, WV 828.545.7362 ramping up. The first iPhone had just been released, and the rise of the mobile [email protected] Lyn Barraza, CA web and apps was in its infancy. We published the Vertical Times six times a Mike Morin Jeff Buhl, CO year and relied heavily on direct mail to gain new members. When we launched Conservation Specialist our Facebook page in 2008, we debated if we were just wasting our time and if it Matt Compton, OR 720.624.6051 would ever result in anything tangible. Peter Croft, CA [email protected] Jonah Harrison, WA Erik Murdock Now, in 2015, things are different. We use our website, Facebook, email, Twitter, Policy Director YouTube, Vimeo, and Instagram to communicate with our supporters. We produce Jamie McNally, TX 720.588.3512 [email protected] a printed annual report, publish the Vertical Times three times a year, and minimize Perry Norris, CA our use of direct mail. Only recently have online donations outnumbered paper Mark Synnott, ME Amanda Peterson Conservation Specialist transactions. Who wants to write a check anymore? Some of you do, as checks HONORARY BOARD MEMBERS 720.624.6051 constitute about 30% of member transactions, but this number is in decline. [email protected] Rick Accomazzo, CO Brady Robinson An informed membership and climbing community is essential to our work. We Larry Gustafson, TX Executive Director need you, our members, to know what is going on and what we’re doing about it. John Juraschek, NC 303.545.6772 x101 [email protected] How else would you know that your hard-earned dollars are put to good use? The Michael Kennedy, CO growing climbing community is seeking more and more content, articles, photos, Joe Sambataro Armando Menocal, WY National Access Director & videos, and comments. The burden to our “communications department,” as we Dave Rosenstein, NJ Northwest Regional Director 425.218.8234 somewhat jokingly refer to our one communications staffer, is constantly on the Bill Supple, VT [email protected] rise. So it is only natural to ask, should we still produce a printed version of the ACCESS FUND STAFF Curt Shannon Vertical Times? Is it worth the time and expense, or could these hours and dollars Arizona Policy Analyst Mandy Bishop be put to better use? We want to hear from you. Do you actually read this thing, or 480.382.1445 Office Manager [email protected] does it get shuffled along with the piles of credit card applications and catalogs 303.545.6772 x104 you receive every week? Check out the Feature Story on page 8 for an analysis of [email protected] Holly Smolenski Communications & Marketing Director Jim Chase the Vertical Times and then check in and tell us what you think. You can email me 303.545.6772 x100 Operations Director [email protected] directly at [email protected]. 303.545.6772 x107 Anneliese Thies We have some great victories to share in this issue. At long last, climbing has [email protected] Development Associate Peter Dodge been reopened in Hawaii. Even if you never plan to climb there, I think you can 303.545.6772 x114 Membership Manager [email protected] agree that a state agency closing climbing due to liability concerns would have 303.545.6772 x103 been a chilling precedent, to say the least. Also in this issue, we honor the [email protected] Ty Tyler Stewardship Director Danielle Estabrook organizations and volunteers who make our work possible with our annual Sharp 303.545.6772 x105 Bookkeeper End Awards. Take a moment to read their accomplishments – maybe you’ll be [email protected] 303.545.6772 x107 inspired to win one yourself someday! [email protected] GENERAL COUNSEL Leici Hendrix See you out there, Chris Archer Development Director 303-817-8997 [email protected]

Brady Robinson Access Fund Executive Director

Cover image: Yasmeen Fowler on Happiness in Slavery, Guillaume Bitton climbs The Flake on Otter Cliff, Acadia 2 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Ten Sleep, Wyoming | © Elodie Saracco National Park, Maine | © Elodie Saracco Spring 15 Vertical Times 3 News from the Grassroots Network Higher Learning

Welcome, Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance LCO 101: Applying The Access Fund is excited to welcome the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance (CWCA) to the grassroots affiliate program. The CWCA is best known for Grant Funding for its International Climbers Festival, held each summer in Lander, Wyoming. Here are some tips for pursuing The organization also manages a youth climbing program that promotes our grant funding for local projects: sport and sponsors two kids per year to climb the Grand Teton, as well as Start researching. Funding can the Lander and Replacement Fund, which has replaced over 100 come from the government, private routes in Sinks Canyon and Wild Iris in the last two years. The CWCA recently foundations, corporations, or other achieved 501(c)(3) status. Nice work and welcome aboard, CWCA! nonprofits and might fall under the categories of conservation, public East Tennessee Climbers Coalition Is health, environment, education, or The East Tennessee Climbers outdoor recreation tourism. Look Coalition (ETCC) has taken care of for funders who match your mis- sion, work, and geographic region. the climbing in the Obed since 2004, Check out Access Fund’s Climbing alongside the National Park Service Preservation Grants Program and and conservation partners like The the ’s Corner- Nature Conservancy. ETCC recently stone Conservation Grant. hosted a volunteer re-bolting of Lilly Bluff, one of the Obed’s most popular Determine eligibility. Once you’ve crags, with support from the American Safe Climbing Association. And it found a potential grant source, hosts an annual Adopt a Crag that is a vital part of climbing management and read its guidelines and require- natural resource protection along the Obed Wild & Scenic River. ETCC recently ments carefully before submitting incorporated as a nonprofit, putting it on stronger footing for long-term an application. Make sure your advocacy efforts. Congrats, ETCC! organization meets requirements, such as nonprofit incorporation, Illinois Climber’s Association Going Strong 501(c)(3) status, or partnership with another organization. Illinois Climber’s Association (ICA) is hitting its stride with a strong new board of directors and great projects. Last Reach out. Depending on the grant October, ICA knocked out a successful Adopt a Crag at source, it may be appropriate or any cliff-dwelling raptor species are protected under federal law such as the Holy Boulders, doing trail maintenance, boulder landing even required to make contact Endangered Species Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, and/or under state first or to submit a formal letter of reinforcement, and vegetation removal. In November, its law. The laws that protect raptors (e.g., peregrine falcons, golden eagles, and inquiry to introduce your organiza- Second Testament competition at Holy Boulders grew by over 100 M tion and describe your proposal to participants and raised $11,252 to help pay for the acquisition. prairie falcons) depend on the raptor species and the state. Protection of nest sites is a see if the funder will consider sup- This year, ICA is planning an Adopt a Crag at Jackson Falls and further priority for protecting raptor species. stewardship projects at Holy Boulders. Keep it up, ICA! porting it. This step can save you The most sensitive period in the breeding cycle is incubation, hatching, and fledging, when time and enhance your chances of outside disturbance to the nest site—particularly from climbing—could compromise the being awarded. Welcome, Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition chicks. When you encounter signage indicating a due to nesting raptors, please Consider a partnership. Partnering Access Fund is proud to welcome the new Southwest respect it. Together we can help protect and promote the welfare of the endangered raptors with like-minded organizations can Virginia Climbers Coalition (SVCC) to the national with which we share the cliffs. The climbing experience would be greatly diminished by make your application stronger. network of local climbing organizations. Recently their absence. Get creative, think big picture, and incorporated as a Virginia nonprofit, SVCC is focused think longterm when consider- on stewardship and protection of southwest Virginia’s Information about seasonal raptor closures is widely communicated and publicized in the ing partnerships. Partners enable unique and growing climbing resources from Roanoke climbing community by land managers, by your local climbing organization, in guidebooks, you to leverage resources, gener- to the Cumberland Gap. SVCC is hitting the ground ate matching dollars, advance a and on Mountain Project. Learn about seasonal raptor closures at your local crags and road collaborative approach, and forge running, supporting trail days and working with public trip destinations before you head out, and climb somewhere else until the closure is lifted. n relationships that may be the basis land managers for areas like Grayson Highlands State Park, the Guest River for future funding. The Access Gorge, and Breaks Interstate Park. It’s also supporting Carolina Climbers Fund is open to partnering with Coalition with ongoing fundraising and stewardship and management of Hidden LCOs on local grants. Ask us! Valley. At press time SVCC executed an agreement with Access Fund and the City of Norton to open climbing on the high-quality sandstone of the city’s Flag Rock Recreation Area. Keep up the great work, SVCC!

4 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Spring 15 Vertical Times 5 Section AF News

STEWARDSHIP THE INSIDE SCOOP: BISHOP TRAINING SERIES f you’re like most climbers, you pore over guidebooks we connect you with local climbing access leaders at some Takes on Increased for weeks or even months when planning a climbing trip. of the country’s top climbing destinations for valuable IYou educate yourself on routes, descents, gear, and insight into local ethics and issues. Climber Impacts camping. But what about the local ethics, issues, and Destination: BISHOP, CA challenges at your destination crag? Part of being a any climbing areas across the country are responsible climber is knowing how to tread lightly—both Local expert: ANDREW SCHURR, BOARD MEMBER, suffering from dire environmental impacts due to socially and environmentally. In the Inside Scoop series, BISHOP AREA CLIMBERS COALITION (BACC) Mincreased climber traffic. We are seeing everything from severe erosion and water quality issues caused by What is the biggest challenge facing Are there currently any threats to petroglyphs or pictographs. It would increased runoff to plant degradation, soil compaction, and the Bishop climbing community now? climbing access? be a drag to lose access to an area deteriorating safety conditions. Our biggest challenge is the There are no imminent access because of the actions of a few. The Access Fund–Jeep Conservation Team was created increasing number of climbers threats, but the impacts caused by So what’s the ethic that visiting to address these severe impacts, but the team can’t be visiting each year. Bishop is a very increased visitation could have future climbers should follow? everywhere at once. So the Access Fund has launched fragile high desert environment, and repercussions. More climbers means Respect others and remember that if it a new Stewardship Training Series, which will train local increased traffic (compounded by more cars, more dogs, more need for looks or feels wrong, it probably is. an ongoing drought) makes it hard campsites, more human waste, and climbing organization leaders and volunteers on the highly for the desert to recover from the more cumulative impacts. • Stay on the roads and trails. technical trail skills needed to mitigate climber impacts. impacts of recreation. • Park and in designated spots. What is the best way to dispose of Historically, Adopt a Crags and other stewardship initiatives • Respect land managers, other How are you addressing this human waste at Bishop? have consisted of trash cleanup, graffiti removal, and users, and regulations. overcrowding issue? Use the available toilets or pack it maybe some light trail work. But as impacts grow, it is We are working to educate climbers • Keep control of and pick up after out. The three largest areas—the imperative that local leaders have the skills to tackle more about best practices and ways they Buttermilks, the Happies, and Owens your dog. advanced projects. can help. We are rolling this out River Gorge—all have toilet facilities. • Don’t crush the brush. through climbing gyms and other If you have to go and you are in any • Be mindful of archeological The Stewardship Training will focus on: places where people new to climbing of those areas, please use the toilets, resources. • Developing highly technical trail skills among LCO can learn what it means to tread even if you have to walk a ways to do • Pick up trash even if it isn’t yours. leaders and volunteers. lightly and keep things sustainable it. Human waste and toilet paper do • Providing vision for long-term planning within the LCO and open. not break down adequately in fragile • Pack out your poop. desert soil, so if you have to go in the Most important, if you have a question, and volunteer network. How is the relationship between wild, pack it out. call one of the local land management • Fostering a network of collaboration and teamwork climbers and the land managers? agencies, or ask in one of the local throughout the national climbing community. They are good and getting better. The Isn’t Bishop home to archeological shops, at the Black Sheep, or the vast majority of the Bishop’s climbing resources? • Showing land managers that the climbing community is Mountain Rambler—someone will be is on public land, so it’s important Yes. The Eastern Sierra and the Owens highly capable of caring for their resources. able to direct you to an answer. that the climbing community stays Valley have been home to humans for • Establishing climbing area stewardship standards and engaged and works with land thousands of years. Native peoples Any final words of wisdom? best management practices. managers and the broader community and later settlers left their legacy in Climbing in Bishop is a privilege. All local climbing organizations, volunteers, Adopt a Crag to create positive relationships and the form of artifacts, petroglyphs, Respect it and leave it better than you organizers, land managers, trail professionals, and partners care for our climbing areas. Local pictographs, and other archeological found it. The climbing community is 2015 Stewardship Training Series are encouraged to attend a Climbing Stewardship Training climbers, the BACC, and other resources. Federal law protects all of small, and we need to look after each • Yosemite National Park, CA: May 18–21 community members have been really these things. As climbers, we need other and our climbing areas as the in their area. Stay tuned for registration details. n • Little Cottonwood Canyon, , UT: June 25–28 engaged with land managers (many of to recognize that some boulders sport continues to grow in popularity. • Red River Gorge, KY: September 9–13 whom are also climbers), and we have shouldn’t be climbed, artifacts need Learn more about BACC a great ongoing dialogue. to stay where they are, and we should Facebook: facebook.com/ look but not touch when we find BishopAreaClimbersCoalition n

6 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Photo: © R. Tyler Gross Spring 15 Vertical Times 7 Feature Story Feature Story

The Access Fund’s first printed newsletter was THE END OF published in February 1990 under the title, Access Notes. VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of the Access Fund VERTICAL TIMES? Fall 14/Volume 101 www.accessfund.org The name Vertical Times YOU DECIDE. was introduced in Volume 22 in May 1998. ith a growing number of nonprofits abandoning effective use of your membership dollars. Ensuring that the printed newsletters in favor of more economical climbing community is well informed serves our mission— Currently, the Wand environmentally friendly online content, we we just want to do so as efficiently and effectively as we can. Access Fund want to hear what you think the future of the Vertical Times publishes three issues of Vertical should be. So tell us … would you rather receive your climbing access Times each year, ROCK Project takes on Access Fund remains committed to delivering national content on our website and our blog, or does the printed in the spring, fall, and winter. the of new climbers Vertical Times still have a place? Cast your vote at www. climbing access news, and we want to provide the same page 8 quality content that you’ve come to expect in a format accessfund.org/endofvt, but first take a look at that makes the most sense for your lifestyle and is a cost- these facts to help inform your decision. n Last year, we celebrated the 100th issue of HOW CLIMBERS GET THEIR HOW PEOPLE READ the Vertical Times. ACCESS NEWS VERTICAL TIMES % 40 OPT TO RECEIVE PEOPLE SUBSCRIBE TO A LINK TO THE ONLINE PDF VERTICAL TIMES IN PRINT 9,729 OR ELECTRONICALLY COMMIT TO THE PACT 5 % INSIDE SCOOP: HUECO TANKS 6 URBAN ROCK: GETTING CITIES AND TOWNS TO EMBRACE CLIMBING 13 PEOPLE RECEIVE 60 RECEIVE BETA, OUR MONTHLY A PRINTED COPY EMAIL NEWSLETTER 20,454

NEW WEBSITE

COMING THIS NEW WEBSITE WILL BE CONTENT RICH, VERTICAL TIMES SUMMER AND TABLET AND MOBILE FRIENDLY. 14% 22% 25% 39% POSTAGE DESIGN, STAFF PRINTING $7,658 WRITING, HOURS EDITING

CAST YOUR VOTE on whether to keep the Vertical Times or transition to more online content. www.accessfund.org/endofvt

8 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Spring 15 Vertical Times 9 Area Update Area Update

JOE’S VALLEY: A PERFECT STORM THE FIGHT OF CLIMBER IMPACTS FOR hen you think about U.S. and the seasonal creek beds that The planning process will continue HAWAII’S CLIMBING ACCESS bouldering hot spots, you feed the surrounding communities. throughout 2015, with a final plan Wprobably think Bishop, Heavy foot traffic and pad placement ready for rollout in early 2016. We ask n Sunday, January 25, 2015—957 days after victories and setbacks of that epic three-year battle. Hueco, J-Tree, Yosemite Valley, HP40, have also caused extremely eroded the climbing community to embrace Mokuleia on the North Shore of Oahu was closed— This was an important and hard-fought victory that and—newest to the list—Joe’s Valley, and unstable landing areas, as well the changes that are needed at Joe’s OHawaii climbers were finally able to return to their highlights the tenacity of the local climbing community Utah. The popularity of Joe’s Valley as a network of braided trails that are Valley. Though some of them will beloved crag. After being dealt a devastating blow to and the Access Fund and what good, old-fashioned exploded in early 2000 with the ascent stripping soils of their native plants, not be popular, they are critical to climbing access in the spring of 2012, the water-locked perseverance can accomplish. A huge thanks to all the of the area’s first V13. Since then, it making the area even more exposed protecting climbing access and this Oahu climbing community started a fight for access that local climbers and advocates across the country who has experienced non-stop growth, to impacts. And with limited parking unique climbing environment. We’ll would last well over two years. The timeline illustrates the took action to protect Hawaii’s climbing access. n drawing climbers from around the options, climbers are parking illegally keep the community posted as the world to conquer its vast array of on a narrow canyon road with very plan for Joe’s Valley takes shape. n limited visibility, creating safety March 2012 March 2013 Local climbing advocates launch petitions sandstone boulders, which boast a hazards. Finally, many of the area’s to pressure committee members to wide variety of moderate and hard

2012 Hawaii pays a $15.4 million settlement First legislative approach fails when the reassemble the integrity of the original bill; problems. camping options are in the 2006 wrongful death case of two Chair of the House Judiciary Committee they also file a formal ethics complaint. We ask the climbing too close to the busy hikers in Kauai. refuses to schedule our bills. But Joe’s Valley roads and too close May 2014 faces some unique June 2012 July 2013 community to embrace to watercourses that Senate Bill 1007 passes the House floor, challenges. The the changes that are feed water to the A 12-year-old girl is critically injured by Local climbing advocates and the Access but without the recreational liability bouldering area communities below. a falling rock while on a guided YMCA Fund begin a months-long process protections that would have reopened needed at Joe’s Valley. of working with the Hawaii Attorney sits nestled in the climbing outing at the Mokuleia Wall. Oahu’s climbing. Access Fund and General’s office and Chair of the House foothills of the The Hawaii State Department of Land Access Fund begins working with the nearby Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Judiciary Committee to craft new Manti-La Sal National Forest, just east and Natural Resources (DLNR) closes language for Senate Bill 1007. Attorney General’s office to find non- (SLCA) have pulled together a Joe’s legislative solutions, proposing that of the Joe’s Valley Reservoir, the main access to the Mokuleia Wall, installing Valley stewardship coalition to No Trespassing signs with a warning of Senate Bill 1007 climbers sign liability waivers, which will water supply for the rural mining and be processed by an LCO. begin addressing these issues. The a $2,000 fine. A bill to expand the law that protects ranching communities of Orangeville Hawaiian government from liability for coalition includes the local Bureau July 2014 and Castle Dale, Utah. A mere two July 2012 accidents involving non-natural hazards of Land Management (BLM) and (e.g., trails or bolts) on public land. and half hours from downtown Salt Local climbing advocates join together Senate Bill 1007 is signed into law, U.S. Forest Service (USFS) offices, Lake City, and about six hours from to fight the climbing ban, gaining support formally closing the door on legislative which manage the bulk of the of the Access Fund and gathering 1,700 approaches to Oahu’s climbing access. the population centers of Colorado, January 2014 climbing and camping areas, as well signed petitions to rescind the closure. Joe’s Valley is a perfect weekend

2014 Access Fund rallies climbing advocates November 2014 as Emery County officials who have December 2012 across the nation, submitting hundreds getaway for rocky mountain climbers, a large stake in tourism and water Hawaii Climbers Coalition (HCC) is of pieces of testimony to Hawaii state but it lacks any real “local” climbing Four climbers are ticketed for climbing formed. quality issues. SLCA kicked off the legislature to support Senate Bill 1007 community to help sustain it. at a North Shore climbing area clearly and reopen access. planning process by funding an area December 2014 distinct from Mokuleia. The DLNR asserts assessment to document the state Senate Bill 1007 passes the state Senate As the popularity of Joe’s Valley that climbing is banned on ALL its lands, and is sent to the House. DLNR agrees to reopen access if signs continues to rise, increased climber of natural resources at Joe’s Valley. effectively closing two more crags. warning of the dangers of climbing are traffic is causing some extreme Working together, we have brought April 2014 posted at the Mokuleia trailhead and the January 2013 forth our concerns about the impacts cliff base, and if HCC signs a revocable environmental impacts that could Seven critical pages are removed permit to steward the site, respond to threaten access if not addressed. at Joe’s Valley and begun long-term 2013 Local climbing advocates begin lobbying from Senate Bill 1007 by the finance to state legislature. public safety concerns, and administer One of the biggest concerns is human stewardship planning to address committee, gutting the provision that an online waiver system. waste from visiting climbers, which these impacts and create sustainable February 2013 would protect the state from lawsuits associated with accidents due to non- January 2015 has the potential to contaminate climbing access and a positive Access Fund flies policy staff to Hawaii natural hazards. the water supply given the area’s experience for visiting climbers and

to provide expert testimony at State 2015 Mokuleia is reopened! proximity to the Joe’s Valley Reservoir the local community. Senate hearing.

10 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Spring 15 Vertical Times 11 AF News AF News

ADAM BAYLOR BRIAN PAYST Horsetooth Mountain, bringing new These recipients stand out in their commitment to the Sharp End Award Sharp End Award life to the area’s historic routes. A We are excited to We are excited to graphic designer by trade, Ben has American climbing community, and the Access Fund is present a Sharp present a Sharp also donated thousands of dollars in honored to present this year’s awards to a worthy group End Award to End Award to design services. Adam Baylor Brian Payst for his of volunteers and activists. for his climbing leadership and local MATTHEW ULERY 2014 advocacy leadership advocacy in the Sharp End Award in the greater Portland area. Adam Carolinas and beyond. Brian joined It’s with great serves as Access Fund Regional the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) excitement that Coordinator, Mazama Stewardship board in 2009, and now serves as the Access Fund LIZ ANDFo RICKr Ex ceWEBERllence in HAWAII CLIMBING COALITION areas. At Jackson Falls, Leif worked and Communications Manager, and the organization’s president. He also presents Matthew MenocalClimbing Lifetime Ad vocacy Bebie Leadership Award to replace fixed anchors, steward organizer of Beacon serves as Access Fund Regional Ulery with a Sharp Achievement Award We are pleased to the area through volunteer trail days, Association. At Horsethief Butte, Coordinator for North Carolina, and his End Award for his honor the Hawaii and maintain a good relationship with Adam led the way in revising the initiative has led to major successes dedication and relentless energy Climbing Coalition Shawnee National Forest. Leif has climbing management plan with for CCC and the climbing community. to climbing advocacy in the San with the Bebie also worked on climbing management Washington State Parks. Most Brian spearheaded negotiations Francisco Bay Area. Matt not only Leadership Award for policy at Crab Orchard National recently, he teamed up with Outdoor with the private landowner of motivated and united volunteers for its persistent effort Wildlife Refuge and Rockwood Alliance Oregon to join other human- Sauratown, NC, to successfully the creation of the Bay Area Climbers to reopen climbing in Hawaii after Reservation in Missouri. More recently, powered recreationalists to advocate reopen this important cliff after years Coalition, he has also organized and Oahu’s premier crags were closed in he initiated ICA into the Access Fund for recreation support and funding of closure. With Access Fund, he led led several Adopt a Crag events at 2012. The local advocates, assisted joint membership program and played at the federal level in D.C. and at the CCC’s purchase of Hidden Valley local crags. Matt’s positive outlook Access Fund is proud to present by the Access Fund, attempted to a key role in permanently protecting local level in Oregon. Adam continues in Virginia, reopening yet another and relationship building skills have Rick and Liz Weber with the Menocal reopen the crags via a legislative Holy Boulders in Illinois. to host stewardship events and foster major crag in the region. Brian brings fostered friendly relationships with Lifetime Achievement Award for approach. Despite their admirable partnerships across the region. an engaged, proactive approach local land management staff and establishing an incredible legacy for lobbying efforts, State legislators CLIFTON CLIMBERS ALLIANCE to public land managers, fostering neighbors. He continues to be an one of America’s greatest climbing ultimately closed the door on the Land Conservation Award FRIENDS OF MUIR VALLEY strong relationships. Brian has also invested and motivated partner in one destinations: Muir Valley. In 2004, legislative solution and left the future The Access Fund is Sharp End Award volunteered hundreds of hours of of the largest climber populations in after retiring from their engineering excited to present of Oahu’s crags uncertain. These The Access Fund the U.S. Clifton Climbers IT and website services to CCC, and automobile industry careers, the dedicated climbing advocates brushed honors Friends Alliance (CCA) with increasing capacity and improving Webers embarked on a one-of-a-kind themselves off and began to explore of Muir Valley BLACK DIAMOND EQUIPMENT a Land Conservation communications. retirement project – the acquisition an administrative approach. The State for its great Sharp End Award Award for its dedication and management of a 300-acre valley Attorney General’s office and the accomplishment of BENNETT SCOTT to protecting Eagle surrounded by seven miles of the DLNR were so impressed with the 2014—raising over Sharp End Award Bluff in central Maine. Corbin Sandstone cliff line for which group’s efforts that they agreed, after $200,000 toward the stewardship The Access Fund is When Eagle Bluff was unexpectedly the Red River Gorge is so famous. months of negotiations, on a contract and management of Muir Valley and proud to recognize The Access Fund is honored to closed in 2013, the local climbing For the last 11 years, the two have that allows the crags to be opened demonstrating its commitment to Bennett Scott for present Black Diamond Equipment community came together with driven from their home in Indiana each after nearly three years of closure. continuing the legacy created by his dedication with a Sharp End Award for helping support from Access Fund to purchase week to establish and steward this These leaders of the Hawaii Climbing Rick and Liz Weber. Year after year, to protecting the to launch Access Fund’s new climber and reopen the popular granite bluff. world-class climbing area and nature Coalition are prime examples of our FoMV has organized annual trail climbing resources education program, ROCK Project. Local climbers quickly formed CCA, preserve. They’ve invested more community’s finest advocates. days, greeted visitors, completed of Northern Colorado and the Fort Black Diamond’s support of ROCK than $1 million of their own funds to gained 501(c)(3) status, helped raise LEIF FABER restoration projects, and galvanized Collins area. As a board member Project expanded Access Fund’s over $150,000, and secured public ensure that Muir Valley will continue Reese Martin Regional volunteers and community support. and president of Northern Colorado education capacity, allowing us funding from the Land for Maine’s to be available as a climbing resource Coordinator Award With special thanks to the hundreds Climbers Coalition (NCCC), Ben has to continue to build awareness of Future program. After just six months, beyond their lifetimes. Thousands We’re proud to of climbers and partners who led dozens of trail days at popular responsible outdoor climbing ethics. Access Fund assigned its Option of volunteers have assisted, and recognize longtime supported this cause, FoMV and areas like Horsetooth Reservoir, We thank Black Diamond for its Agreement to CCA, which became the Webers are now poised to hand climbing advocate its board of directors met their Carter Lake, and Arthur’s Rock. He continued dedication to protecting the proud owner of Eagle Bluff, over ownership and management of Leif Faber. Leif fundraising goal, and FoMV is spearheaded a successful effort to America’s climbing and helping permanently securing climbing and the property to the Friends of Muir served on the board transitioning into ownership of open roped climbing in Lory State educate the next generation of hiking access for the local community Valley (FoMV), which has stepped up of Illinois Climber’s Muir Valley via a gift of the land from Park, working with the park managers climbers to be responsible stewards. n and climbers across New England. to fundraise and take responsibility Association (ICA) for six years, and the Webers. to create a fixed anchor initiative and We congratulate CCA on its success for this climbing area. Join us in was the Illinois Access Fund Regional new route process. This past year, and look forward to supporting this congratulating Rick and Liz for making Coordinator from 2010 to 2014. In he successfully worked with Larimer new local climbing organization in its this remarkable gift to the American both roles he was a tireless steward County to replace fixed anchors on climbing community! and advocate for Illinois climbing management and stewardship of Eagle Bluff for future generations to enjoy.

12 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Spring 15 Vertical Times 13 Corporate Partners Featured Artist

arth Treks Climbing Centers, home to some of the largest indoor rock climbing gyms in the country, has joined us as an Access Fund Member Gym at the Platinum Plus E level. For many of us, gyms are where we learned to climb and where we refine our technique and strengthen our ties in the climbing community. The Earth Treks gym in Golden, CO, will be the proud host of the ROCK Project Tour on October 2-4, 2015. We thank Earth Treks for its commitment to educating the climbing community on minimum impact behaviors.

hese partners are businesses GOLD - $5,000+ Desert Rock Sports that put their money where Sender Films Eldorado Climbing Walls T their mouth is to support the The Spot Bouldering Gym Green Peak Promotions future of climbing. Please consider the Gregory Packs important contribution these partners SILVER - $2,500+ International Alpine Guides make to your climbing future. They Adidas Outdoor Julbo support the Access Fund and you. We Arc’teryx KNS Reps, Inc. encourage you to support them! Avery Brewing Company Mountain Tools BlueWater Ropes RAEN Optics ABOVE THE CLOUDS - Falcon Guides Red Chili $100,000+ Liberty Mountain Climbing SealGrinder PT Jeep® Brand/Chrysler Group, LLC Mad Rock Tahoe Oral Surgery & Implant Center Mammut Tom K. Michael, DDS, PS TITANIUM - $50,000+ Marmot Trailspace.com Black Diamond Equipment, LTD Metolius Travel Country Outdoors CLIF Bar & Company Outdoor Retailer TRUBLUE Auto Belays Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI) Portland Rock Gym Verde PR & Consulting Rock’n Jam’n Vertical Dreams DIAMOND - $25,000+ Stone Age Climbing Gym Vertical Endeavors SuperTopo.com Wes & Gold Patagonia Xcellence From left to right: Guillaume Bitton climbs Tangerine Fat Explosion, Ten Sleep, Wyoming. | Lorenzo Sanguedolce climbs Wafer Step at Precipice crag, Acadia Planet Granite MAJOR - $1,000+ National Park, Maine. | Clay Cahoon climbs Divine Fury at the Pipe Dream, Maple Canyon, Utah. | © Elodie Saracco Touchstone Climbing, Inc. Backwoods SUPPORTING - $250+ CAMP USA Amarillo Rock Climbing House PLATINUM PLUS - $15,000+ Call of the Wild Adventures Backbone Media Archer Law Offices, P.C. Drive Current Cadillac Mountain Sports Earth Treks Climbing Centers Evolve Sports Climb Max Mountain Hardwear Fixed Pin Publishing Climb Nashville Osprey High Point Climbing and Fitness Climbingweather.com Elodie Saracco Outdoor Research Jagged Mountain Craft Brewery Doylestown Rock Gym Louder Than 11 Dry ICE Tools even years ago, Elodie left France with a rucksack on her back; a camera in her Forest Oil Corporation PLATINUM - $10,000+ Mountain Khakis hand; and her heart filled with a desire to see, explore, and experience. With Moosejaw Forte Creative Media climbing as a thread, she followed her wanderlust across many continents, eGrips Climbing Holds New Belgium Brewing Company Full Contact ® S GORE-TEX Products Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Law Firm for Non-Profits traveling solo yet never lonely—sharing slices of life with incredible people along the way. Jason Keith Consulting SMAC Climbing, LLC Mesa Rim Climbing and Fitness Elodie strives to seize and capture moments with her camera, to share her vision and The Crash Pad Center connect with others. “Climbing and photography form a balance—deeply entwined, they Mountain Project Thermarest Origin Climbing and Fitness prAna Treasure Mountain Inn Redefining Balance bring focus, challenges, joy, lessons, growth, fulfillment, expression, and freedom, making SCARPA North America Upslope Brewing Company Rock Fitness the journey that is life meaningful and substantial,” says Elodie. Although a traveler and a Stanley Wildland Trekking Company Schneider Management Group, Inc nomad who is at home wherever she goes, Elodie is currently anchored in New York. You Stonewear Designs Sunrift Adventures can see more of her work at elodiesaraccophotographic.smugmug.com. n Trango CONTRIBUTING - $500+ The Gravity Vault Indoor Rock Gyms The Mountaineer GOLD PLUS - $7,500+ Aiguille Rock Climbing Center Alpine Ascents International Ute Mountaineer Mountain Gear Alpine Endeavors Wahl Clipper Corporation Rock/Creek Armaid Your Cause Sports Sterling Rope Company DMM Excalibur

14 Vertical Times www.accessfund.org 303-545-6772 Spring 15 Vertical Times 15 The Access Fund 207 Canyon Blvd., Suite 201S Boulder, Colorado 80302

Access Fund and Black Diamond Equipment are taking the stoke on the road with the 2015 ROCK Project Tour, a six-stop event tour to U.S. climbing hot spots. Professional athletes, indoor climbing gyms, and local climbing advocacy organizations will team up to host a series of multi-day events, including climbing clinics, presentations, stewardship projects, and parties.

San Francisco New York City Denver March 13–15 May 1–3 Oct 2–4

Salt Lake City Seattle Atlanta April 10–12 Sept 18–20 Nov 6–8

Limited availability. Reserve your spot today at www.accessfund.org/rockprojecttour.