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395 INDEX a Abba Garima 144 Abba Liqanos 139 Abba Pentalewon 139

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395 INDEX a Abba Garima 144 Abba Liqanos 139 Abba Pentalewon 139 © Lonely Planet 395 Index INDEX A Ahmed Gragn the Left-Handed 35, 36, cafes 328-9 Abba Garima 144 135, 166, 310, 370 clubbing 330 Abba Liqanos 139 AIDS 51, 53, 54, 58-9 emergency services 318 Abba Pentalewon 139 air travel food 326-8 Abuna Aregawi church 145 Djibouti 296-7 history 316-18 accommodation, see also individual Eritrea 363 internet access 318 locations Ethiopia 259-61, 264-5, 265 itineraries 319 Djibouti 294 Somaliland 282-3 medical services 318 Eritrea 354-5 Aksum 131-43, 133, 140 shopping 330-1 Ethiopia 241-2 Aksum, kingdom of 32, 33-5, 140, 301 sights 320-4 Somaliland 281 Amba Metera 339 travel to/from 331 activities, see also individual activities Ambo 229-30 travel within 331-2 Eritrea 355-6 Amhara people 52, 55, 376 walking tours 324-5, 324 Ethiopia 242-4 amoebic dysentry 374 Assab 352-3 Adadi Maryam 170 animals 12, see also birds, birdwatching ATMs Adaito 352 books 75, 79 Djibouti 295 Adare houses 222 Eritrea 314-15 Eritrea 359 Addis Ababa 82-107, 84, 86-7, 91 Ethiopia 75-8, 181 Ethiopia 251 accommodation 96-9 animism 56, 310 Somaliland 282 activities 95-6 Ankober 167 Awasa 176-8, 177 azmari beats 104 Anuak people 238-9, 240 Awash 212 cafes 102-3 Arba Minch 189-91, 190 Awash Arba 212 clubbing 104 Arbatu Ensessa 164 Awash Falls 211 courses 96 Arbore 199 Awash National Park 210-12, 210 drinking 103 archaeological sites azmari beats 60, 104 emergency services 85 Adulis 351 Azuwa Maryam 116 festivals 96 Dahlak Kebir Island 349 food 99-102 Hadar 212-13 B history 83 Las Geel 278-80 Babille 225 internet access 85 Metera 340-1 baboons, gelada 12, 75 itineraries 83 Qohaito 337-9 Bahir Dar 111-14, 112 medical services 88-9 architecture 311-12 Bakaffa, Emperor 38, 123 shopping 105 books 323 Bale Mountains National Park 179-83, sights 90-5 Eritrea 323 182, 7 tourist offices 89-90 Ethiopia 63-4 bandits 248 travel to/from 105-6 area codes, see inside front cover Bankoualé 293 travel within 106-7 Ari people 197, 200 Banna people 200 Addis Ababa Park 95 Ark of the Covenant 58, 138 141 Barentu 353-4 Addis Alem 229 Art Deco architecture 323 bargaining 254 Adi Alauti Cave 338-9 art galleries, see museums & galleries Baro River 237-8 Adi Keyh 337 arts bathrooms Adi Quala 342 Eritrea 311-12 Eritrea 361 Adigrat 146-7, 146 Ethiopia 59-65 Ethiopia 255 Adulis 351 Asaita 213-15 Bati 166 Adwa 143-4 Asaita salt lakes 214 Battle of Adwa 40, 41, 144 Afar people 53, 214, 308 Asbe Tefari 215 Bay of Beraesoli 352 Africa Hall 94 Ashetan Maryam 164 beaches Africa Park 95 Asmara 316-32, 317, 320 Djibouti 288, 293 Afsaw, Empress Menen 92 accommodation 325-6 Eritrea 349, 352 Agordat 353 bars 329-30 Somaliland 280 396 INDEX (B-C) Bedele 232 border crossings 21 Christianity 34, 55-6, 303, 310-11 beer factories 232 Djibouti-Somaliland 283, 296 Ethiopian saints 57, 145 begging 246 Eritrea-Djibouti 296, 363-4 Christmas 11, 248, 10 INDEX Berbera 280-1 Eritrea-Sudan 364 churches & cathedrals, Beta Giorgis 116 Ethiopia-Djibouti 262, 296 see also monasteries Beta Maryam mausoleum 94 Ethiopia-Eritrea 262, 364 Abuna Aregawi 145 Beta Maryam monastery 116 Ethiopia-Kenya 262-3 Adadi Maryam 170 Beylul 352 Ethiopia-Somaliland 263, 283 Adigrat Chirkos 146 bicycle travel Ethiopia-Sudan 263-4 Arbatu Ensessa 164 Eritrea 364, 365 border disputes 16-17, 46, 47, 48 Bilbila Chirkos 164 Ethiopia 265-6 Borena people 188 Bilbila Giyorgis 164 Bikila, Abebe 54 bowling alleys 322 Catholic cathedral (Asmara) 321 Bilbila Chirkos 164 Bruce, James 117 Church of Abuna Aftse 145 Bilbila Giyorgis 164 bull-jumping ceremonies 11, 203, 11 Church of Debre Sina 125-6 Bilen people 309 Bumi people 200 Church of St Gabriel 231 bilharzia 373 Burcao 281 Debre Berhan Selassie church 122-3 birds Buri Peninsula 352 Enda Mariam Orthodox cathedral books 75 Burton, Richard 219, 220 322-3 Eritrea 314 bus travel Geneta Maryam 165 Ethiopia 76-7, 78 Eritrea 364 Greek Orthodox church (Asmara) birdwatching 12, 76-7, 242-3, 314, Ethiopia 266-7 323 355 business hours Holy Saviour Catholic Cathedral 146 Ankober 167 Djibouti 294 Holy Trinity Cathedral 92 Awasa 176 Eritrea 356 Kidhane Mehret Church 339 Awash National Park 210 Ethiopia 245 Kulubi Gabriel 218 Bale Mountains National Park 180 Busso 197 Machina Maryam 165 Gefersa Reservoir 228-9 Butajira 170 Medhane Alem (Adigrat) 146 Gorgora 126 Medhane Alem Cathedral (Harar) itineraries 27, 27 C 220 Korem 155 calendar, Ethiopian 255 Na’akuto La’ab 164-5 Lake Deepa 204 camel markets 185, 225, 276, 334 Portuguese Cathedral 126 Lake Tana 116-17 camel trekking 356 rock-hewn churches of Lalibela Lake Ziway 171 car travel, see also border crossings 158-61 Nechisar National Park 191-2 driving licences 267 rock-hewn churches of Tigray Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 187 Eritrea 364-6 147-52, 148 Birgida Maryam 126 Ethiopia 267-9 St George Cathedral 93 black market 359 Somaliland 283 St Mariam Cathedral 345 Blue Nile Falls 117-18, 118 carambula 54 St Mary Catholic Church (Harar) Blue Nile Gorge 110-11 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals 221 Blue Nile, outer of 113 caves St Mary of Zion churches 135-8 boat travel Adi Alauti Cave 338-9 St Maryam Church 229 Djibouti-Yemen 296 Mesket Escarpment 163 Tsada Amba 336 Somaliland-Yemen 283 Sof Omar Caves 184-5 Wusha Mikael Church 107 boat trips 115, 171-2, 176 Tekla Haimanot’s Cave 110 Yemrehanna Kristos 164 books 22, 40, 42, 47, see also literature cell phones cinema 59, 65 animals 75, 79 Djibouti 295 climate architecture 323 Eritrea 361 Djibouti 19, 288 Ethiopia 244-5 Ethiopia 255 Eritrea 19, 356-7 health 368-9 cemeteries 294, 324, 334 Ethiopia 18-19, 245 history 22, 33, 37, 40, 42, 47, chat 72 Somaliland 19, 277 48, 132 checkpoints 357 climate change 260 Chencha 194 coffee 234 000 Map pages Chercher Mountains 215 ceremonies 69 000 Photograph pages Chew Bahir 199 plantations 233-4 cholera 369 coins, Aksumite 140 INDEX (C-E) 397 consulates diarrhoea 373-4 Ethiopia 248 INDEX Djibouti 295 Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary 232 Somaliland 282 Eritrea 357 Dila 186 Emberemi 347 Ethiopia 248 Dimeka 203 emperors Somaliland 282 diptheria 370 Bakaffa 38, 123 costs 19-21 Dire Dawa 215-18, 216 Dawit 121 courses 96, 245 disabilities, travellers with 256, 361 Dengel, Lebna 36-7 cows 186 diseases 369-73 Fasiladas 37, 38 credit cards 251, 359 Dissei Island 349 Galawdewos 36 crocodiles Dittilou 293 Haimanot, Tekla 110, 111 diving 8-9 markets 192 Iyasu 41-2, 121 Djibouti 291, 292, 294 ranches 189 Iyasu II 38, 39 Eritrea 346, 349-51, 356 Cuban Lakes 208 Lalibela 157 Somaliland 280 culture Menelik 39, 40-1 Djibouti 286-97, 287 Eritrea 307-12 Menelik II 83, 92, 270 accommodation 294 Ethiopia 49-65 Meskel, Gebre 34, 138 border crossings 262 customs regulations Selassie, Haile 41, 42, 45-6, 47, 55, business hours 294 Eritrea 357 62, 92, 173, 220-1 travel to/from 296-7 Ethiopia 246, 253 Seyon, Amda 34 travel within 297 cycling visas 257, 295 Susenyos 37, 58, 126 Eritrea 364, 365 Djibouti City 287-91, 289 Tewodros 38, 39, 62 Ethiopia 265-6 Dodola 178-9, 179 Yohannes 39, 40, 41, 52, 152 Dola-Mena 185 Yaqob, Zara 116 D Dorze people 193-4 Za-Dengel 37 Dahlak Islands 348-51, 348, 8 Dorze village 193-4 Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral Dahlak Kebir Island 349 drinks 322-3 Dallol 155 coffee 69, 234 Entoto Mountains 107 Danakil Depression 154-5 Eritrea 312-13 environmental issues dance Ethiopia 68 Eritrea 316 Eritrea 311 tej 68 Ethiopia 79-80 Ethiopia 61-5 vocabulary 71-2 Eritrea 300-66, 302 dangers driving licences 267 Asmara 316-32, 317, 320 Djibouti 294-5 driving, see car travel border crossings 262 Eritrea 357 Dungur 140 culture 307-12 Ethiopia 246-8 Dur Gaam Island 349 history 301-7 Somaliland 281 Dur Ghella Island 349 independence struggle 353 Dankalia 351-3 Dus 204 itineraries 24, 27, 24, 27 Dawit, Emperor 121 dysentry 374 northern Eritrea 333-6 Debre Berhan 166-7 southern Eritrea 336-42 Debre Berhan Selassie church 122-3 E travel permits 362 Debre Bizen 332-3 Easter 11, 249, 11 travel to/from 363-4 Debre Damo 145-6 economy travel within 364-6 Debre Libanos (Eritrea) 340 Eritrea 301, 327 western Eritrea 353-4 Debre Libanos (Ethiopia) 109-10 Ethiopia 16 visas 361 Debre Maryam 115 Edi 352 Ethiopia 29-271, 30 Debre Sina 335 El Sod 187 Addis Ababa 82-107, 84, 86-7, Debre Tsion 171 electricity 91 Debre Zeyit 206-9, 207 Djibouti 295 eastern Ethiopia 205-26, 206 deep-vein thrombosis 369 Eritrea 355 history 31-48 Dega Estefanos 116 Ethiopia 242 itineraries 23, 25, 26, 27, 23, 25, Dekemhare 337 Eleni, Queen 11 26, 27 Dengel, Emperor Lebna 36-7 elephant sanctuaries 225 northern Ethiopia 108-67, 110 Dengue fever 370 embassies southern ethiopia 168-204, 169 Derg, the 44-6, 93 Djibouti 295 travel to/from 259-64 Dessie 165-6, 165 Eritrea 357 travel within 264-71, 265 398 INDEX (E-I) Ethiopia continued Gefersa Reservoir 228-9 Dodola 178-9, 179 western Ethiopia 227-40, 228 gelada baboon 12, 75 Eritrea 356 visas 256 Geneta Maryam 165 Goda Mountains 293 INDEX Ethiopia Park 95 genital mutilation 59 Mesket Escarpment 163 Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary genna 54 responsible hiking 244 Democratic Front 46, 48 geography Simien Mountains National Park Ethiopian wolf 181 Eritrea 313 126-31, 128-9, 6 ethnicity, see also peoples Ethiopia 74 historical circuit 109-67 Eritrea 308-9 Gesergio 197 itineraries 23, 23 Ethiopia 52-4, 55, 200-1 Gewane 212 history exchange rates, see inside front cover Ghinda 333 books 22, 33, 37, 40, 42, 47, 48, 132 giardiasis 374 Eritrea 301-7 F glossary 384 Ethiopia 31-48 Falasha people 56, 123 Goba 184, 184 hitching 269, 366 Falasha village 123 Goda Mountains 7, 293 HIV-AIDS 51, 53, 54, 58-9 famine 45, 46, 49 Gonder 118-25, 119, 121 holidays Fantale Crater
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