395 INDEX a Abba Garima 144 Abba Liqanos 139 Abba Pentalewon 139

Index INDEX

A Ahmed Gragn the Left-Handed 35, 36, cafes 328-9 Abba Garima 144 135, 166, 310, 370 clubbing 330 Abba Liqanos 139 AIDS 51, 53, 54, 58-9 emergency services 318 Abba Pentalewon 139 air travel food 326-8 Abuna Aregawi church 145 Djibouti 296-7 history 316-18 accommodation, see also individual Eritrea 363 internet access 318 locations Ethiopia 259-61, 264-5, 265 itineraries 319 Djibouti 294 Somaliland 282-3 medical services 318 Eritrea 354-5 Aksum 131-43, 133, 140 shopping 330-1 Ethiopia 241-2 Aksum, kingdom of 32, 33-5, 140, 301 sights 320-4 Somaliland 281 Amba Metera 339 travel to/from 331 activities, see also individual activities Ambo 229-30 travel within 331-2 Eritrea 355-6 Amhara people 52, 55, 376 walking tours 324-5, 324 Ethiopia 242-4 amoebic dysentry 374 Assab 352-3 Adadi Maryam 170 animals 12, see also birds, birdwatching ATMs Adaito 352 books 75, 79 Djibouti 295 Adare houses 222 Eritrea 314-15 Eritrea 359 Addis Ababa 82-107, 84, 86-7, 91 Ethiopia 75-8, 181 Ethiopia 251 accommodation 96-9 animism 56, 310 Somaliland 282 activities 95-6 Ankober 167 Awasa 176-8, 177 azmari beats 104 Anuak people 238-9, 240 Awash 212 cafes 102-3 Arba Minch 189-91, 190 Awash Arba 212 clubbing 104 Arbatu Ensessa 164 Awash Falls 211 courses 96 Arbore 199 Awash National Park 210-12, 210 drinking 103 archaeological sites azmari beats 60, 104 emergency services 85 Adulis 351 Azuwa Maryam 116 festivals 96 Dahlak Kebir Island 349 food 99-102 Hadar 212-13 B history 83 Las Geel 278-80 Babille 225 internet access 85 Metera 340-1 baboons, gelada 12, 75 itineraries 83 Qohaito 337-9 Bahir Dar 111-14, 112 medical services 88-9 architecture 311-12 Bakaffa, Emperor 38, 123 shopping 105 books 323 Bale Mountains National Park 179-83, sights 90-5 Eritrea 323 182, 7 tourist offices 89-90 Ethiopia 63-4 bandits 248 travel to/from 105-6 area codes, see inside front cover Bankoualé 293 travel within 106-7 Ari people 197, 200 Banna people 200 Addis Ababa Park 95 Ark of the Covenant 58, 138 141 Barentu 353-4 Addis Alem 229 Art Deco architecture 323 bargaining 254 Adi Alauti Cave 338-9 art galleries, see museums & galleries Baro River 237-8 Adi Keyh 337 arts bathrooms Adi Quala 342 Eritrea 311-12 Eritrea 361 Adigrat 146-7, 146 Ethiopia 59-65 Ethiopia 255 Adulis 351 Asaita 213-15 Bati 166 Adwa 143-4 Asaita salt lakes 214 Battle of Adwa 40, 41, 144 Afar people 53, 214, 308 Asbe Tefari 215 Bay of Beraesoli 352 Africa Hall 94 Ashetan Maryam 164 beaches Africa Park 95 Asmara 316-32, 317, 320 Djibouti 288, 293 Afsaw, Empress Menen 92 accommodation 325-6 Eritrea 349, 352 Agordat 353 bars 329-30 Somaliland 280 INDEX books 22,40,42,47, 115,171-2,176 boat trips boat travel Blue Nile,outerof113 Blue NileGorge110-11 Blue NileFalls 117-18, 359 black market 126 Birgida Maryam birdwatching 12,76-7,242-3,314, birds 373 bilharzia Bilen people309 Bilbila Giyorgis164 Bilbila Chirkos164 Abebe54 Bikila, bicycle travel Beylul 352 monastery116 Beta Maryam mausoleum94 Beta Maryam Beta Giorgis116 Berbera 280-1 begging 246 232 beer factories Bedele 232 396 000 000 history 22,33,37,40,42,47, health 368-9 Ethiopia 244-5 323 architecture animals 75,79 Somaliland-Yemen 283 Djibouti-Yemen 296 Yabelo 187 Wildlife Sanctuary Nechisar NationalPark 191-2 Ziway171 Lake TanaLake 116-17 Deepa204 Lake Korem 155 27, itineraries Gorgora 126 228-9 Gefersa Reservoir Bale MountainsNationalPark 180 Awash NationalPark 210 Awasa 176 Ankober 167 355 Ethiopia 76-7,78 314 Eritrea books 75 Ethiopia 265-6 364,365 Eritrea

Map pages Map Photograph pages 48, 132 INDEX (B-C) INDEX 27 see also 118 literature bull-jumping ceremonies 11,203, Bruce, James117 bowling alleys322 Borena people188 border disputes16-17,46,47,48 border crossings21 cathedrals, carambula car travel, 356 camel trekking 185,225,276,334 camel markets calendar, Ethiopian255 C Butajira 170 Busso 197 business hours bus travel 219,220 Richard Burton, PeninsulaBuri 352 Burcao 281 Bumi people200 cholera 369 199 Chew Bahir Chercher Mountains215 Chencha 194 checkpoints 357 chat 72 294,324,334 cemeteries cell phones caves Ethiopia-Sudan 263-4 Ethiopia-Somaliland 263,283 262-3 Ethiopia-Kenya 262,364 Ethiopia-Eritrea Ethiopia-Djibouti 262,296 364 Eritrea-Sudan 296,363-4 Eritrea-Djibouti Djibouti-Somaliland 283,296 Somaliland 283 Ethiopia 267-9 364-6 Eritrea licences267 driving Ethiopia 245 356 Eritrea Djibouti 294 Ethiopia 266-7 364 Eritrea Ethiopia 255 361 Eritrea Djibouti 295 Tekla Haimanot’sCave110 Sof OmarCaves184-5 Escarpment163 Mesket Adi AlautiCave338-9 54 see also see churches &cathedrals bordercrossings 11 Christmas 11,248, Christmas 34,55-6,303,310-11 Christianity coins, Aksumite 140 coffee 234 climate change260 climate cinema 59,65 churches &cathedrals, Ethiopian saints57,145 plantations 233-4 ceremonies 69 Somaliland 19,277 Ethiopia 18-19,245 19,356-7 Eritrea Djibouti 19,288 Yemrehanna 164 Kristos Church107 Wusha Mikael Tsada Amba336 Church229 St Maryam ofZionchurches135-8 St Mary CatholicChurch (Harar) St Mary Cathedral345 St Mariam Cathedral93 St George rock-hewn churchesofTigray rock-hewn churchesofLalibela Cathedral126 Portuguese La’ab164-5 Na’akuto AlemCathedral(Harar) Medhane Alem(Adigrat)146 Medhane 165 Maryam Machina 218 Kulubi Gabriel Church339 Mehret Kidhane Cathedral92 Holy Trinity Holy SaviourCatholicCathedral146 church(Asmara) Greek Orthodox 165 Maryam Geneta cathedral Orthodox Enda Mariam church 122-3 Selassie Debre Berhan 231 Church ofStGabriel Church ofDebre Sina125-6 145 Church ofAbunaAftse Catholic cathedral(Asmara)321 Bilbila Giyorgis164 Bilbila Chirkos164 Arbatu Ensessa164 Adigrat Chirkos146 170 Adadi Maryam Abuna Aregawi 145 see also 221 147-52, 158-61 220 323 322-3 monasteries 148 10 INDEX , , 397 25 , 169

110 23 86-7 206 , 27 320 265 84 , , 24 317 30 302 INDEX (C-E) 27 ,

62, 92, 173, 220-1 26 91 Seyon, Amda 34 Susenyos 37, 58, 126 38, 39, 62 Tewodros Yohannes 39, 40, 41, 52, 152 Zara 116 Yaqob, Za-Dengel 37 322-3 Eritrea 316 Ethiopia 79-80 Asmara 316-32, Ethiopia 248 Ethiopia 282 Somaliland Bakaffa 38, 123 Dawit 121 36-7 Dengel, Lebna 37, 38 Fasiladas Galawdewos 36 110, 111 Haimanot, Tekla Iyasu 41-2, 121 Iyasu II 38, 39 Lalibela 157 Menelik 39, 40-1 Menelik II 83, 92, 270 Meskel, Gebre 34, 138 Selassie, Haile 41, 42, 45-6, 47, 55, northern Eritrea 333-6 southern Eritrea 336-42 travel permits 362 travel to/from 363-4 travel within 364-6 western Eritrea 353-4 visas 361 Addis Ababa 82-107, travel to/from 259-64 travel within 264-71, northern Ethiopia 108-67, southern ethiopia 168-204, history 31-48 itineraries 23, 25, 26, 27, border crossings 262 307-12 culture history 301-7 independence struggle 353 itineraries 24, 27, eastern Ethiopia 205-26, Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral Entoto Mountains 107 environmental issues Eritrea 300-66, Emberemi 347 Emberemi emperors Ethiopia 29-271, 289 216 287 11 179 car travel see 68 Eritrea 301, 327 Ethiopia 16 Djibouti 295 Eritrea 355 Ethiopia 242 Djibouti 295 Eritrea 357 Djibouti 291, 292, 294 Eritrea 346, 349-51, 356 Somaliland 280 accommodation 294 border crossings 262 business hours 294 travel to/from 296-7 travel within 297 visas 257, 295 69, 234 coffee Eritrea 312-13 Ethiopia 68 tej vocabulary 71-2 E Easter 11, 249, economy Edi 352 El Sod 187 electricity Eleni, Queen 11 elephant sanctuaries 225 embassies diarrhoea 373-4 Sanctuary Didesa Wildlife 232 Dila 186 Dimeka 203 diptheria 370 Dawa 215-18, Dire with 256, 361 disabilities, travellers diseases 369-73 Dissei Island 349 Dittilou 293 diving 8-9 Djibouti 286-97, Djibouti City 287-91, Dodola 178-9, Dola-Mena 185 Dorze people 193-4 Dorze village 193-4 drinks driving licences 267 driving, Dungur 140 Dur Gaam Island 349 Dur Ghella Island 349 Dus 204 dysentry 374 8 , 348 207 165 Djibouti 294-5 Eritrea 357 Ethiopia 246-8 Somaliland 281 Eritrea 311 Ethiopia 61-5 Djibouti 295 Djibouti Eritrea 357 Ethiopia 248 Somaliland 282 markets 192 ranches 189 Eritrea 307-12 Ethiopia 49-65 Eritrea 357 Ethiopia 246, 253 Eritrea 364, 365 Ethiopia 265-6 deep-vein thrombosis 369 Dega Estefanos 116 Dekemhare 337 36-7 Dengel, Emperor Lebna 370 Dengue fever Derg, the 44-6, 93 Dessie 165-6, Dankalia 351-3 Dawit, Emperor 121 BerhanDebre 166-7 BerhanDebre Selassie church 122-3 Bizen 332-3 Debre Damo 145-6 Debre Libanos (Eritrea) 340 Debre Libanos (Ethiopia) 109-10 Debre MaryamDebre 115 Sina 335 Debre 171 Tsion Debre 206-9, Zeyit Debre dangers Dahlak Islands 348-51, Dahlak Kebir Island 349 Dallol 155 Danakil 154-5 Depression dance D costs 19-21 courses 96, 245 cows 186 cards 251, 359 credit crocodiles Cuban Lakes 208 culture customs regulations cycling consulates INDEX exchange rates, ethnicity, Ethiopian wolf181 Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Ethiopia Park 95 Gecha 233 Gecha Haile54 Gebreselassie, gay travellers249,358 NationalParkGambela 240 237-40, Gambela galleries, villages203 Galeb Emperor36 Galawdewos, G fuel, car267 192 Springs Forty forts Foro 351 Forêt duDayNationalPark 293 football 54,309 food fishing 183,243,346 Filwoha 211 hotsprings film 59,65 370 filariasis festivals 10-11,69,142,248-9 Fasiladas’ Bath121-2 Fasiladas, Emperor37,38 Fasika 11,249, faranji Fantale Crater211 famine 45,46,49 Falasha village123 Falasha people56,123 F Ethiopia 398 000 000 Ethiopia 52-4,55,200-1 308-9 Eritrea Democratic Front46,48 visas 256 western Ethiopia227-40, Tigu 334 337 Segheneyti 334 Keren 238 Gambela vocabulary 70-3 69-70,73,313 vegetarian Ethiopia 66-8,249 312-13,357-8 Eritrea

Map pages Map Photograph pages frenzy 247 INDEX (E-I) INDEX continued see see also museums&galleries 11 see insidefrontcover peoples 238 228 Gonder 118-25, Goda Mountains7,293 Goba 184, glossary 384 giardiasis 374 Ghinda 333 212 Gewane 197 Gesergio geography genna genital mutilation59 165 Maryam Geneta gelada baboon12,75 228-9 Reservoir Gefersa Gurage people53-4 Gulf ofZula352 guides 247 gugs Guge Mountains193-4 Guder Falls 230 Valley 170-8 Great Rift 144 Grat BealGebri Governor’s Palace (Asmara)320 government Gorgora 125-6 Gore 233 hiking 6-7,243, 244, 356 hiking hepatitis 370 Hedareb people308-9 374 heatstroke heat exhaustion374 health 367-75 Hayk 166 Hargeisa 275-8, Harenna Forest 185 people54 Harari Harar 218-25, Hamer people200 Haimanot, EmperorTekla 110,111 hairstyles 52 Hadar 212-13 H Ethiopia 74 313 Eritrea Ethiopia 51 301,306-7 Eritrea history 38-9 63-4 architecture Djibouti 292, 293 Bale Mountains 178-83, vaccinations 368 369 medical services insurance 367-8 books 368-9 54 54 184 220 119 277 , 121 182 , 7 itineraries Italians inEthiopia42-4 303-4 Italians inEritrea Islam 34,56,303,310-11 volcano 155 Irta’ale Irafayle 352 internet resources 22 internet access insurance 250,358 bites 374 insect injera 66 immigration I hyena feeding 222-3 FallsHuluka 229 House ofSalt187 173,175,192,211,229, hot springs 7,178-9, horse trekking 96 horse riding Cathedral92 Holy Trinity holidays HIV-AIDS 51,53,54,58-9 hitching 269,366 history circuit109-67 historical Simien MountainsNationalPark 244 responsible hiking Escarpment163 Mesket Goda Mountains293 356 Eritrea Dodola 178-9, Djibouti 26, birdwatching 27, Asmara 319 Addis Ababa83 Ethiopia 250 358 Eritrea health 367-8 car 268 Somaliland 282 Ethiopia 259 363 Eritrea Djibouti 296 230, 236, Islamic 249 Ethiopia 250 358 Eritrea Djibouti 295 Ethiopia 31-48 301-7 Eritrea books 22,33,37,40,42,47,48,132 23, itineraries Eritrea 24,27, Eritrea 126-31, see also 128-9 26 23 24 179 , mineralsprings 27 , 27 6 179 INDEX 399

see inside front 344 153 INDEX (I-M) 60 Agordat 353 Agordat Aksum 141 Arba Minch 189 215 Asbe Tefari Asmara 322 Awasa 176 Bahir Dar 113 353 Barentu Bati 166 Berbera 280 Chencha 194 Dawa 216-17 Dire Djibouti City 288 Dorze village 194 Gambela 239 Harar 221, 223 Hargeisa 276 Jijiga 225 Jimma 237 Jinka 197 Keren 334 Konso 195 195 Lower Omo Valley Massawa 345 Mekele 153 Nekemte 231 Senafe 339 200 Turmi Djibouti 295 Eritrea 355 Ethiopia 242 220 cover Marsa Fatma 352 Marsa Fatma masenkos Masha 233 Massawa 342-7, measures Medhane Alem Cathedral (Harar) medical services 369 Mekele 152-4, Melka Awash Prehistoric Site 170 Menagesha 229 National Forest Mendaba Medhane Alem 126 Mendefera 341-2 Menelik, Emperor 39, 40-1 Menelik II, Emperor 83, 92, 270 Mengistu 45-6, 47 meningococcal meningitis 372 Mentewab, 123 Empress Meskel 11, 249 Meskel, Emperor Gebre 34, 138 Mesket Escarpment 7, 163 Metera 340-1 metric conversions, 202 202 115 books 157 10 see also peoples of the 200-1, Djibouti 295 Eritrea 318, 358 Ethiopia 250-1 Addis Ababa 93-4 Adigrat 146 rock-hewn churches 158-61 churches rock-hewn courses 96 food & drink 70-3 Eritrea 358 Ethiopia 250 Eritrea 358 Ethiopia 249 Eritrea 311 Ethiopia 22, 62-5 Lucy 31-2, 92 Lucy M Machekie 196-7 Machina Maryam 165 198-9 Mago National Park Mai Jah Jah fountain 322 malaria 371-2 Manchiti rock engravings 186 maps markets Lalibela, Emperor 157 land mines 246, 306, 357 languages 376-83 Las Geel 278-80 11, 248, Leddet legal matters leishmaniasis 370 leptospirosis 370 Sept Archipelago 9, 294 Frères Les lesbian travellers lighthouses 294 Lion of Judah monument 95 140 Lioness of Gobredra literature, Logiya 213 194-204, Lower Omo Valley Lake Bario 214 Lake Bishoftu 207 Lake Bishoftu Guda 208 Lake Chamo 189 Lake Deepa 204 Lake Gamarri 214 Lake Hora 207 Lake Kiroftu 208 Lake Langano 172 Lake Stephanie 199 114-17, Lake Tana Lake Wenchi 230 Lake Ziway 171-2 Lalibela 156-63, , 25 , 23 25 23 27 26 7 26 235 27 173 , 26 172-3, border crossings 262-3 visas 257 Ethiopia 23, 25, 26, 27, Ethiopia historical circuit 23, lakes 25, & mountains monasteries 27, overland 26, Somaliland 26, Lake Abaya 189 Lake Abbe 214, 292-3 Lake Abiata-Shala National Park Lac Abbé 214, 292-3 Lac Assal 291-2, Lake Afambo 214 Lake 155 Afera Lake Awasa 176 Lake Badda 352 L Keren 333-5 Kereyu people 212 Key Afar 203-4 Kidhane Mehret Church 339 King Bazen’s Tomb 139 kitesurfing 292 Koka Dam 170 Kolcho 204 Kombolcha 166 Konso 195-6 Konso people 195, 196 155 Korem 225 Koremi Kulubi 218 Kulubi Gabriel 218 Kunama people 309 Kuskuam complex 123 Kaleb, King 138, 142 Kangata 204 Karo 201 people kayaking 243-6 Kebra Negast 50, 62 Kebran Gabriel 115 Kenya K Jinka 197-8 35, 122 John, Prester Jijiga 225-6 Jimma 234-7, J Iyasu, Emperor 41-2, 121 Iyasu, Emperor 41-2, 38, 39 Iyasu II, Emperor INDEX mineral springs 192, mineral springs 212 Mille 232 Metu 400 mosques money, monasteries mobile phones mobbing 247 TefariMizan 233-4 FasiladasMitsele 116 minibuses 270 000 000 Jamia 221 Jama 276 Hamoudi 288 Great Mosque(Asmara)322 Berbera 280 Agordat 353 Somaliland 20-1,277,282 Ethiopia 19,251-2 19-20,359 Eritrea Djibouti 20-1,288,295 115 Meret Ura Kidane Tana Cherkos116 116 Narga Selassie 209 Mt ZuquallaMaryam FasiladasMitsele 116 Alem126 Medhane Mendaba Wenchi230 Lake TanaLake 115-16, monasteries 115 Gabriel Kebran 27, monasteries Hayk 166 Dega Estefanos116 Debre Sina335 115 Debre Maryam Debre Libanos(Ethiopia)109-10 Debre 340 Libanos(Eritrea) Debre Damo145-6 Debre Bizen332-3 126 Birgida Maryam 116 Beta Maryam Beta Giorgis116 116 Maryam Azuwa 164 Ashetan Maryam Abba Pentalewon 139 Abba Liqanos139 144 Abba Garima Ethiopia 255 361 Eritrea Djibouti 295 springs

Map pages Map Photograph pages see also INDEX (M-P) INDEX

inside frontcover 27 see also hot 115 national parks79,80-1, 116 Narga Selassie Nara people309 Nakfa 335-6 La’ab164-5 Na’akuto N music museums &galleries villages198-9 Mursi people198-9,201 Mursi Gorge109 River Muger monastery209 Mt ZuquallaMaryam Mt Zuqualla209 Mt Wuchacha229 Mt Wenchi230 229 Mt Menagesha Moyale 187-9 Moucha Island291 motorcycle travel Bale MountainsNationalPark Awash NationalPark 210-12, wildlife sanctuaries Mago NationalParkMago 198-9 Abiata-Shala 172-3, Lake NationalParkGambela 240 Forêt duDayNationalPark 293 Ethiopia 59-61 311 Eritrea Yohannes IVmuseum152 Yeha 145 231 Wolega Museum Church museum229 St Maryam 93 Cathedral&Museum St George (Addis Museum Natural History 323 (Eritrea) National Museum (Ethiopia)91-2 National Museum museum152 Memorial Martyrs’ Jimma museum235 (Addis Ethnological Museum 174 Banana Leaf Gallery Bale Mountainsmuseum180 Awash NationalPark museum211 Asni gallery94 Asmara gallery311 house220 Rimbaud’s Arthur (Aksum)135 Archaeological Museum 94 Addis AbabaMuseum Ethiopia 267-9 364-6 Eritrea Hussein185 Sheikh Hanafi345 Sheikh 179-83, Ababa) 94 Ababa) 90-1 182 , 7 see also 173

210 overland travel264 outlet oftheBlueNile113 Oromo people36,37-8,52,55 Oromo LiberationFront52 opening hours, onchocerciasis 372 Omorate 202-3 202-3 Omo River Omo NationalPark 204 Obock 294 O Nuer villages239 Nuer people238-9,240 Ethiopia108-67, northern newspapers 231-2, Nekemte Negele Borena 185-6 Negash 147 Nefasit 333 necropolises 281 Nechisar NationalPark 191-3, Nazret 209-10 nature 12,74-9 parks &gardens, palaces painting P Simien MountainsNationalPark Omo NationalPark 204 Nechisar NationalPark 191-3, NationalForest 229 Menagesha Ethiopia 55,242 310-11,355 Eritrea Djibouti 295 Yangudi-Rassa NationalPark 212 Queen ofSheba’sPalace 140 Kumsa MorodaPalace 231 Iyasu I’spalace121 PalaceImperial 345 (Massawa) palace113 Haile Selassie’s Governor’s Palace (Asmara)320 Fasiladas’ Palace 120-1 Agordat 353-66 Abba Jiffar’spalace235-6 Ethiopia 64 312 Eritrea Teltele Park 229 Ethiopia Park 95 Asmara citypark323 ParkAfrica 95 Addis AbabaPark 95 parks 126-31, 128-9, see 231 see also businesshours 6 national 110 192 192 INDEX 401

174 275 6 26 INDEX (P-S) 128-9, 248 population 277 travel to/from 282-3 travel within 283 visas 257, 282 Eritrea 309 Ethiopia 54 Aksumite stelae 134 Stelae 137 Great Gudit stelae field 137 King Ezana’s Stele 136-7 Djibouti 291, 292, 294 Eritrea 346, 349-51, 356 Somaliland 280 accommodation 281 border crossings 263 business hours 281 independence 17 itineraries 26, 47, 55, 62, 92, 173 47, 55, 62, 220-1 House Ras Tafari’s Eritrea 360 Ethiopia 254 126-31, Sor River waterfalls 232-3 souvenirs 253 sports St George Cathedral & Museum 93 St Mary Catholic Church, Harar 221 St Mary of Zion churches 135-8 stelae singing wells 187, 188 slave trade 239 snake bites 374-5 snorkelling 8-9 soccer 54, 309 social customs 51, 70, 71 Sodo 170-1 Sof Omar Caves 184-5 solo travellers 254, 360 Somali people 53 Somaliland 274-83, Selassie,45-6, Haile 41, 42, Emperor Semera 213 Senafe 339-40 Senkele Sanctuary Wildlife 175-6 Sept 9, 294 Archipelago Frères Seyon, 34 Emperor Amda Shashemene 173-4, Sheekh 281 Sheikh 185 Hussein shiftas 131 Shire shopping Sidama people 53 Simien Mountains National Park 121 148 Selassie, Emperor Haile see Eritrea 355 Ethiopia 55, 242 Christianity 303, 310-11 Ethiopian saints 57 Islam 303, 310-11 wars 36-7 houses 220 Lalibela 158-61 147-52, Tigray Eritrea 360 Ethiopia 252-3 S 243 safety Saho people 308 saints, Ethiopian 57, 145 salt mining 156, 187 scams 247 scarification 203 schistosomiasis 373 Segheneyti 337 Q Qohaito 337-9 33, 50, 108, 132, 139 Queen of Sheba 140 Queen of Sheba’s Palace R rabies 372-3 radio rafting 243-6 Randa 293 Ras Bir lighthouse 294 Ras 221 Makonnen’s Palace Ras Tafari, Ras Tafari’s house 220-1 Ras Tafari’s Rashaida people 309 Rastafarianism 173-4, 175 Red Sea coast 342-51 49, 55-6, 303, 310-11 religion Rift Lakes 170-8 Valley Rimbaud, Arthur 219, 221 road conditions 268 road rules 269 Robe 183-4 rock climbing 243 rock engravings 186 rock paintings 218 architecturerock-hewn 63 churches rock-hewn Royal Enclosure 120-1, Royal Enclosure running 54 Porc Epic 218 Porc Epic Portuguese 126 Cathedral postal services itineraries see also 316, 330 202 Mursi people 198-9, 201 Nara people 309 Nuer people 238-9, 240 Oromo people 36, 37-8, 52, 55 Rashaida people 309 Saho people 308 Sidama people 53 Somali people 53 Surma people 201, 204 people 52-3, 55 Tigrayan people 308 Tigré people 308 Tigrinya western lowlands people 240 Djibouti 296 Djibouti Eritrea 363 Ethiopia 259 Somaliland 282 214, 308 Afar people 53, 52, 55, 376 Amhara people Anuak people 238-9, 240 Ari people 197, 200 Banna people 200 Bilen people 309 people 188 Borena Bumi people 200 Dorze people 193-4 people 56, 123 Falasha Gurage people 53-4 Hamer people 200 Harari people 54 people 308-9 Hedareb Karo 201 people Kereyu people 212 Konso people 195, 196 Kunama people 309 people 200-1, Lower Omo Valley Eritrea 315-16 Ethiopia 78-9 Djibouti 288 Eritrea 303, 308 Ethiopia 16, 51-4 Somaliland 277 permits, travel 362 phone cards 254 photography 252, 360 planning 18-22, passegiata 200-1, 308-9 peoples 52-4, 55, passports plants poetry 62 police escorts 276 poliomyelitis 372 population INDEX Timkat 11,248-9, time Tigu 334 Tigrinya people308 Tigré people308 Tigray’s rock-hewn churches147-52, Tigrayan people52-3,55 Thio 352 Thesiger, Wilfred 53,214 248 theft theatre 65 Tewodros, Emperor38,39,62 Teseney 354 Tepi 233 Teltele Park 229 telephone services Tekle, Afewerk 64,92,93,223 tej taxis tape worms373 Tana Cherkos116 Tadjoura 293-4 T synagogues 323 swimming pools323 sustainable travel81, Susenyos, Emperor37,58,126 Surma people201,204 Sudan stelae 402 000 000 68 Ethiopia 255 361 Eritrea 148 Somaliland 282 360 Eritrea Ethiopia 254-5 Djibouti 295 studio 94-5 Somaliland 283 Ethiopia 269-70 366 Eritrea GreenDex visas 257,362 border crossings263-4 Tututi 186 Tutu Fella 186 Tiya 170 Rome stele137 StelaeField 134-40, Northern 341 Metera

Map pages Map Photograph pages continued INDEX (S-W) INDEX 11 see also

140 trekking 6-7,243,244,356 trekking travellers cheques252 train travel touts 246 tours information tourist totemism 56 tombs toilets Tis Isat117-18, tipping 251-2,359 Ura Kidane Meret 115 Meret Ura Kidane 46, inEthiopia&Eritrea UN Mission U typhoid 373 TV Turmi 199-204 tuberculosis 373 Tsada Amba7,336 violence246 tribal Bale Mountains178-83, 331,366 Eritrea Djibouti 262,297 tours324-5 walking Ethiopia 270-1 366 Eritrea Addis Ababa96 Ethiopia 255-6 361 Eritrea Djibouti 295 122 Zobel’s Mausoleum Tomb ofSaidAliHamdogn222 Abadir’sTomb222 Sheikh Oromo tombs170 stelaefieldtombs134-5 northern tomb137 Nefas Mawcha’s Lalibela159 King 138 Meskel &Gebre Kaleb King Bazen’sTomb139 King Emir Nur’sTomb222 Island349 Kebir Dahlak Ethiopia 255 361 Eritrea 47, 48,306 Ethiopia 55,242 310-11,355 Eritrea Simien MountainsNationalPark 244 responsible trekking Escarpment163 Mesket Goda Mountains293 356 Eritrea Dodola 178-9, Djibouti 292,293 126-31, 128-9 118 179 , 6 182 , 7 whale-shark spotting 9,292, whale-shark Weyto 112 347 Wekiro weights weather waterfalls 375 water, drinking 301,306 war, Ethiopia–Eritrea walking, W volunteering volcanoes 155,211 visas, Villa Roma322 travellers vegetarian Valley oftheSycamores 337 225 Valley ofMarvels vaccinations 368 vacations V wildlife sanctuaries wildlife 12,74-9,seealsoanimals, 243-4 rafting white-water Ethiopia 242 355 Eritrea Djibouti 295 Somaliland 19,277 Ethiopia 18-19,245 19,356-7 Eritrea Djibouti 19,288 232-3 Sor River FallsHuluka 229 Guder Falls 230 Awash Falls 211 Somaliland 279 Ethiopia 120 Yemen 296,362 Sudan 257,362 Somaliland 257,282 257 Kenya Ethiopia 256 361 Eritrea Djibouti 257,295 Ethiopia 69-70,73 313 Eritrea Islamic 249 Ethiopia 250 358 Eritrea Djibouti 295 Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary 232 Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary Bale MountainsNational Park 225 Babille elephantsanctuary plants see also 179-83, see trekking passports 182 , 7 9 INDEX 403

Tadjoura (Djibouti) 293 Tadjoura Workshop (Eritrea) 337 Alternatives (Ethiopia) Future 163 INDEX (GreenDex) border crossings 283, 296 border crossings visas 296, 362 Saganeiti Women Training Centre Saganeiti Women Training Centre Dolphin Excursions (Djibouti) 292 Eritrea Diving Center (Eritrea) 350 Ermano (Djibouti) 297 Lagon Bleu (Djibouti) 292 Tourism in Ethiopia for Sustainable North-South Travel 261 Association des Femmes de Association des Femmes Z 37 Za-Dengel, Emperor MelesZenawi, 47-8 45, Zobel’s Mausoleum 122 yellow fever 373 yellow fever Yemen Kristos 164 Yemrehanna 39, 40, 41, 52, 152 Yohannes, Emperor sights & activities travel agencies (Ethiopia) 196 Simien Park Lodge (Ethiopia) 131 Simien Park Eco Lodge Strawberry Fields Village Mer Rouge (Djibouti) 294 Wenney Eco-Lodge (Ethiopia) 172 Havoyoco (Somaliland) 279 Link Ethiopia (Ethiopia) 120 (Ethiopia) 120 Tesfa Yenege Sallam Restaurant (Eritrea) 347 Alert handicraft shop (Ethiopia) 105 Y 186-7 Yabelo Sanctuary Wildlife 187 Yabelo 212 Park National Yangudi-Rassa 116 Emperor Zara Yaqob, the Deacon 59 Yared 144-5 Yeha 12 Monument 93 Yekatit charities eating shopping Wondo GenetWondo 175 Wusha Mikael 107 Church 12 (Djibouti) 293 du Day (Djibouti) 293 (Djibouti) 293 Bankoualé (Djibouti) 293 208 175-6 Bilen Lodge (Ethiopia) 213 Bishangari Lodge (Ethiopia) 172 Campement Touristique d’Asbole Campement Touristique de la Forêt Campement Touristique de Dittilou Campement Touristique de Dinsho Lodge (Ethiopia) 185 Gheralta Lodge (Ethiopia) 151-2 Mekonen Lodge (Ethiopia) 194 (Ethiopia) Salayish Lodge & Park Ethiopia 56-9 Eritrea 310 Mago National Park 198-9 Mago Park National Senkele Sanctuary Wildlife Sanctuary Wildlife 187 Yabelo The following attractions, accommodation options, restaurants and charities have been selected selected been and charities have attractions, following accommodation options, restaurants The tips a commitment to sustainability. For more they demonstrate by Lonely Planet authors because (p18). We want to the Horn, turn to the Getting Started sustainably in chapter about travelling who should someone omitted If you think we’ve our sustainable-travelkeep content. developing about sustainable information email us at lonelyplanet.com/contact. For more here, be listed see lonelyplanet.com/responsibletravel. tourism and Lonely Planet, accommodation GREENDEX women travellers 257-8, 362-3 women in Woldia 156 Wolleka 123-4 12, wolves, Ethiopian 404 LONELY PLANET OFFICES MAP LEGEND ROUTES Primary Pedestrian Overpass Australia Secondary Walking Tour Head Office Tertiary Walking Tour Detour Lane Walking Trail Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 Unsealed Road Walking Path %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 Mall/Steps Track [email protected] TRANSPORT Ferry Rail USA Bus Route 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 HYDROGRAPHY %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555 River, Creek Water fax 510 893 8572 Swamp Lake (Dry) [email protected] Mangrove Lake (Salt) BOUNDARIES UK International Regional, Suburb 2nd fl, 186 City Rd, State, Provincial Ancient Wall Disputed Cliff London EC1V 2NT %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 AREA FEATURES [email protected] Airport Forest Area of Interest Land Beach, Desert Market Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Building Park ABN 36 005 607 983 Campus Rocks Cemetery, Christian Sports Cemetery, Other Urban © Lonely Planet 2009 POPULATION © photographers as indicated 2009 CAPITAL (NATIONAL) CAPITAL (STATE) Large City Medium City Cover photograph: Four people standing on top of a cliff overlooking Small City Town, Village the southern Rift Valley, Eritrea, Africa/Franz Aberham. Many of the SYMBOLS images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Sights/Activities Entertainment Information Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com. Beach Entertainment Bank, ATM Castle, Fortress Shopping Embassy/Consulate All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored Christian Hospital, Medical Shopping in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, Diving, Snorkelling Sleeping Information Islamic Sleeping Internet Facilities electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts Jewish Police Station Camping for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold Monument Post Office, GPO Transport Museum, Gallery Telephone or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Point of Interest Airport, Airfield Geographic Ruin Border Crossing Lighthouse Printed by Toppan Security Printing Pte Ltd, Singapore. Trail Head Bus Station Lookout Zoo, Bird Sanctuary Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Eating Cycling, Bicycle Path Mountain, Volcano General Transport Eating National Park Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and Drinking Parking Area Pass, Canyon in other countries. Drinking Petrol Station Shelter, Hut Cafe Taxi Rank Waterfall Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: www.lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

© Lonely Planet. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’