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Four Boats at a River Crossing Nachiket Kelkar Four Boats at a River Crossing 1 It Was a Pleasant November After- Ditioned Luxury Rooms

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Four Boats at a River Crossing Nachiket Kelkar Four Boats at a River Crossing 1 It Was a Pleasant November After- Ditioned Luxury Rooms Working for water resources development as if democracy, people and environment matter Vol 13 | Issue 11-12 | Dec 2015-Jan 2016 Rs. 15/- Index Four Boats at a River Crossing Nachiket Kelkar Four Boats at a River Crossing 1 It was a pleasant November after- ditioned luxury rooms. Their win- noon when we were travelling down dows were made translucent by pale Bhutan Hydropower the Ganga River by boat, surveying mauve and white chiffon curtains river dolphins. Tall grass had grown artistically tied in an hourglass Developments in 2015 4 on both banks through the flood re- shape. The Ganges Voyager was like cession period. The water level had a luminous sculpture of marble, a Maharashtra’s Water become very low already. Two mag- true white elephant, an unbeliev- Sector in 2015: nificently large concrete buildings; ably striking white contrast from Did anything change one, the agricultural college, and the grey of the Ganga River on with the government? 10 the second, the industrial office, which it moved. It was somewhat stood precariously by the edge of a like those two tall buildings that rapidly eroding bank. At the turn of looked over an agricultural flood- Himachal Pradesh this bank, the Ganges Voyager ap- plain and riverscape: there was Hydropower Projects peared in a sudden sight. British something discordant and decep- in 2015 15 tourists with gleaming shades, sun- tive. This was unlike the inland wa- ning their fair skins to balanced tan terways ship that was anchored in Groundwater Crises tempered by muslin umbrellas put the shallower side off the other bank over brick-red wooden tables, waved – which seemed purely involved in Deepened in India at us from the deck of the Voyager. sinister activity. Its dredging pillars in 2015 21 Uniformed Indian attendants con- moved up and down over a large firmed that they were not waving pivot, extracting several kilograms Hydropower projects out to any dangerous people, in a of river sediment in a single bout, commissioned in 2015 re-enactment of the old colonial of which many followed in rapid suc- in India 28 days. The Voyager had fifty air-con- cession. Hydropower projects in India: Important 2015 Developments 31 Contact : Himanshu Thakkar, Parineeta Dandekar, Bhim Rawat, Ganesh Gaud Dams, Rivers and People C/o 86-D, AD Block, Shalimar Bagh Delhi - 100 088, India. Ph: + 91 11 2748 4654/5 [email protected] http://sandrp.wordpress.com/, www.facebook.com/sandrp.in, http://sandrp.in The Ganges Voyager. Photo: © Subhasis Dey/VBREC 1 Dams, Rivers & People Dec 2015-Jan 2016 asked them to row away backwards. But in doing so, their oars tripped over a giant trailing stir left by the Voyager. The boat viciously toppled and one of the oars chipped off at its corner edge. We could only imagine the human strength it must have taken the fishermen to keep the boat’s bow down after that jerk. This must have been rather tiring – worth abandoning if not for the day’s meal – much more than what the calm river afforded in November generally. As the wave extinguished in strength, we heard a loud bang, and a water fount sprung from the river’s calming surface. “Dolphin” shouted one of the volunteers, and others thought the bang was perhaps of firecrackers from some wedding ritual in villages on the river’s banks. It Dredging operations along the Ganga. was neither of these. But then a heavy black boat with a Photo: © Sunil Choudhary/ VBREC. tall crest arrived, a boat larger than both our survey boat and the fishing boat. The man on the bow stood Our river dolphin survey boat on the other hand, was a with a black cloth flag and vigorously waved it and knobbed, rivet-struck structure of only grey, brown, and shouted, hurling abuses. Two other men brandished their black. Pramod, our skipper, lay down on a ragged quilt rifles and flashed a commander torch. This was their blackened by the grime and grease of the sooty, noisy and shuddering engine. The bamboo platforms of the ship were creaking with the slightest shift of body weight caused by observers turning their heads in various di- rections to spot dolphins better. The boat was physically rattled by the huge V-shaped ripple that was created by the Ganges Voyager. The observers silently imagined what Ganges River dolphins underwater would have felt by the swamping concussion of the engine noises of both boats together. Balancing their chairs on the boat, they waited for the Voyager’s influence to subside. For us getting a good population estimate of river dolphins was the ultimate objective today. Our boat had a couple of costly and high-end acoustic machines towing behind to record dolphin sounds. The noises of the dredge, the voyager and the terrible current must have wobbled and A fisherman crosses the river with his boat. upturned the devices in the water. The Voyager must Photo: © Sameer Kumar/VBREC. have surely meant a lot of work for another small boat signal for us to stop and veer the boat towards them. being rowed by three fishermen in the distance. To keep They were an armed gang of bandits. As we turned, the them from netting over the acoustic device, our skipper bandits fired six shots at our boat, which landed in the river around and produced six large founts. We had al- ready ducked under our chairs and sacks, in a display of thoughtful cowardice – with the simple logic that they had guns and we did not. As our boat turned the bandits saw the banner on the boat’s side that read – “River Dolphin Survey”. The bandits had nothing to do with us; they stopped firing. Hurling an abuse their leader shouted: “Get lost – or there will be trouble. We have scores to settle here with others. Your safety is in going away right now. Get lost!” Pramod turned our boat back on track, with acoustic devices trailing and all, and off we went, downriver. Our fisher friends later told us that there was an armed fight between two gangs because of some land dispute right Our river dolphin survey boat. Photo: © Subhasis Dey/VBREC after this flood season. And we happened to be the use- 2 Dams, Rivers & People Dec 2015-Jan 2016 A boat used by gangs involved in illegal fishing with mosquito-nets. Photo: © T. Morisaka/VBREC. less sort of innocent bystanders, who had a fortunate commodify and relegate our rivers to mere ‘freight-car- escape. There was a complex silence on the boat after riers’ and ‘tourist routes’ because its imagination is nar- the shooting incident, and I am sure our team missed row and sickly. The bill shows complete indifference to- counting some dolphins because of being caught in an wards the wide diversity of ecological and social mean- endless web of nerves and thoughts. But soon, near the ings embedded in India’s rivers. Its sheer scale and ar- meander at Ismailpur, dolphin calves started surfacing rogant ambition makes it the most gigantic of water- aplenty with full zest and energy. As the survey pro- grabs after the dam-building spree of the past 5 decades. gressed, our silence and nervous ponderations broke They say that political ambition is the ship that can sail away and the sense of wonder returned to the observ- even without water. The Ganges Voyager is a stunning ers. The marvel and delight of watching little dolphins expression of this, and will be bringing back a neo-colo- jump around the boat defeated the fear of bandits, the nial form of control. Its movement on the rapidly van- awe of the Voyager, and the fickleness of self-interest ishing river floodplain water is literal proof of a rigid and life-insurance. Conversations into the night slowly and mindless top-heaviness. transcended into a warm but morbid humour on how As the boats, large and small, moved past each other – we were still alive. When had fieldwork in Bihar been our collective destinies were slashed through by the an- different? tagonistic razor-edges of conservation, development, The story of the four boats that met at this river cross- conflict, and neoliberalism in the Gangetic basin. River ing serves as a resounding metaphor of where we are dolphins, fishes, fisher folk, farmers, bandits, conserva- headed. The largest boats represented the highest power tionists, tourists, vessels, barges, ships, boats, fishing – and the smallest boats were brutally shaken by the nets and sediment particles all got tossed around mul- shock-wave sent by the largest. They could dredge, they tiple times in that fleeting moment. There were four could sell, and they could even drown you. The National boats – four viewpoints, four realities that clashed at Waterways Bill (2015) on the anvil currently – wants to that crossing– but only over one finite river. 3 Dams, Rivers & People Dec 2015-Jan 2016 Bhutan Hydropower Developments in 2015 Bhutan is the only country in the world that measures The foundation stone for the 600 MW Kholongchhu was its development in terms of Gross National Happiness, laid in June 2014. which includes environmental conservation and preser- The remaining three projects under the 10,000 MW tar- vation of culture1. However, Bhutan’s hydropower con- get, are in different stages of detailed project reports struction spree in the recent years has increased debt (DPR) evaluation. These are the 2,560 MW Sunkosh2, burden on the country. Concerns are emerging over 540 MW Amochu3 and the 2,640 MW Kuri Gongri4 Bhutan’s profligate spending on a single sector without projects.
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