Tourist Guide SETE CIDADES CRESAÇOR – For All

EDITION CRESAÇOR – Cooperativa Regional Economia Solidária CRL

TEXTS Dulce Pacheco, João Nunes, Maria Manuela Albergaria, Manuela Soeiro, Paulo Garcia

REVISION Manuela Soeiro, Michael Ross, Samanta Fontes

PHOTOS Azoresphotos (Associação Turismo dos Açores), CRESAÇOR, Direção Regional da Cultura, Eduardo Miranda, Nuno Fonseca, Paulo Garcia, SIARAM

DESIGN CRESAÇOR – Criações Periféricas Elisabete Ross Contents

1 São Miguel island 4

2 Social and historical context 6

3 Morphology 12

4 Geology 15

5 Flora and fauna 19

6 Protected landscape 23

7 Walking trails 25

8 What to do – outdoor activities 28

9 Code of conduct 32

3 1 São Miguel island

São Miguel, the largest of the years ago in the Northeast zone. nine volcanic islands constituting It gained its present form in the the archipelago of the Azores, last 50 thousand years with the has an area of 745 km2, a length union of the Sete Cidades vol- of 62 km, minimum width of 8 km cano to the rest of the island. and a maximum of 15 km. At any time of year the occur- Like the other Azorean islands, rence of clouds and rain is the formation of São Miguel had frequent, which maintains the several phases and volcanic erup- extensive green areas and tions which increased its area, a contributes to the exuberance process that began about 4 million of vegetation and landscape.

4 1 A São Miguel island

– Pico do Carvão viewpoint

From June to October periods the 2011 Census. The Sete of sunshine are longer and Cidades complex has its highest temperatures are higher, gua- points at Pico das Éguas (873 m) ranteeing a moderate climate in and Pico da Cruz (856 m). São Miguel throughout the year. Average temperatures are 16° C in spring, 21° C in summer, 18° C in autumn and 14º C in winter. São Miguel contains 6 districts and 64 parishes where 137 699 inhabitants live, according to

5 2 Social and historical context

Sete Cidades is a parish of the municipality of with 793 inhabitants (2011). Its name evokes stories and legends linked to its two largest , one blue and one green. In the XVIII century J. J. A. Albuquerque Bettencourt (1762 - 1808), owner of a large portion of the western part of the island, promoted settlement in the valley by giving people land at low leases, with the frst families settling in Cerrado das Freiras. The people of Sete Cidades remain hostage to this old system of property. 90% of the population does not own the ground below their houses, which still belongs to the current heirs of that former owner, as do the Casa Grande and Pitoresco Garden, created by António Borges(1812 - 1879) in the later XIX century.

– Mosteiros islets

6 2 Social and historical context

The population of those times had a very hard life, with few plots of land for cultivation, high rainfall, constant fooding and diffcult access. Living came mostly from agriculture and domestic animals, supplemented with charcoal production, doing laundry and selling moss and blackberries. Until the middle of the XX cen- tury the washerwomen of Sete Cidades spent many hours in the lakes scrubbing and clapping the clothes in stone washers and spreading them to dry on the lakeshore. Every week they went on foot with the clothes on top of the donkeys to the “city” to deliver the laundry and return with a new load. To produce charcoal, they collec- ted frewood, which was placed in pits, fred and transformed into charcoal to be transported on donkeys and carts to the “city.”

– Sete Cidades parish 7 2 Social and historical context

– Sete Cidades parish

Throughout the 20th century the houses domestic animals are many people emigrated, mainly raised and fruits and vegetables to the U.S.A. and to Canada. grown. Harvests and utensils Traditionally, sheep and goat are stored in the graneis and farming was the largest economic arribanas (a type of small barn). resource; today it is cattle raising. At the beginning of the 20th cen- The traditional diet consisted tury, in an area known as Seara, of yams, bread, pepper, eggs, there was a black tea factory, fsh, occasionally pork, beans Seara Tea. At the Experimental and fresh cheese.Today food is Center for Organic Agriculture, very diverse; food goods come fruit trees, aromatic plants are in large part from “the outside”. grown, as well as India variety tea With the milk, fresh cheese is for the production of white tea. produced. In the backyards of

8 2 Social and historical context

– Donkey transportation

The population, mostly Catholic, decoration of ‘Holy Spirit rooms’, is very devoted and committed coroações, distribution of food to its rituals. Every year the local and ‘folia’ musical performan- group of pilgrims performs the ce, among other events. Lenten pilgrimage. Christmas and The church of São Nicolau was Easter are celebrated, among built in 1857. The feast in honor other festivities. The Holy Spirit of this patron saint takes place on festivity, with the Empires of the second Sunday of August. Trindade, São João and São Pedro, involves the entire commu- The cemetery of Rosais dates nity and a complex organization back to 1858, the current ceme- of brotherhoods and stewards. tery having been created in 1978. There is a community collection The philharmonic band ‘Lyre of frewood, community meals, of Sete Cidades’ was formed cattle and carriage ornamentation, in 1948, by the priest José

9 2 Social and historical context

Cabral Lindo (1879 - 1956) and by maestro José Velho Quintanilha (1897 - 1978). The Public School was created in the late XIX century and in 1958 the school edifce “Plano dos Centenários” was built. The José Cabral Lindo School was expanded at the end of the 20th century and today this school the chronic problem of foo- building functions at pre-school ding caused by the rains. and elementary education levels. In 1971 Sete Cidades was given Young people continue their the administrative status of a villa- studies until ninth grade in the ge and in 1981 electricity arrived. EBI of Ginetes and secondary In 1982, through the initiative of education in Ponta Delgada. Priest Eduardo da Costa Tavares The frst houses constructed (1928 - 1995), the “Casa do in Sete Cidades were built Povo” (House of the People) was of wood or stone masonry built. There is little commercial and roofed with straw. economic activity: the Tavares In 1937, the drainage tunnel Bakery opened in 1970, there is was completed, projected by the an establishment that sells “a bit engineer Francisco Pacheco of everything”, two small grocery de Castro (1884 - 1980) and stores, restaurants and bars. executed by Manuel de Oliveira The post offce functions in the Júnior (1884 - 1962). The tunnel parish council offce. At the is 1200 m long and resolved “Casa do Povo” there is the health

10 2 Social and historical context

care unit and a center for the Near the blue there is an elderly, among other services. informative and educational centre The Association ‘7 Maravilhas’ about the Sete Cidades Natural organizes pedestrian hikes, Park called Loja do Parque. among other events. The village now offers a signifcant number of tou- There is an eco-tourism store cal- rist accommodations. led Azores For All — Eco-Atlântida which, besides providing touristic Sete Cidades is a Protected information, runs a bicycle and Area. Nowadays it receives many canoe rental and sells products visitors, a recent phenomenon of economic solidarity origin. that will have economic and social consequences in the territory.

– Canário Lagoon

11 3 Morphology

– Ferraria

The most striking geomorpholo- by volcanologists — though gical feature of the western part smaller depressions also exist of the island of São Miguel is in this area (such as the craters the presence of a large collapse of Lagoa de Santiago, Lagoa depression, at the top of the Sete Rasa, Caldeira do Alferes and Cidades massif, about 5 km in Caldeira Seca), or on the fanks diameter, within which is located of the Sete Cidades volcano, the village of the same name. namely on the volcanic cones of The village of Sete Cidades Pico das Camarinhas and the in fact occupies that great Lagoa do Pilar or Escalvado. depression — called

12 3 Morphology

The predominant elements of the as Lagoa Verde (Green Lake) landscape of the caldera are the and Lagoa Azul (Blue Lake). village of Sete Cidades and the At an altitude of about 259 m vast water mass of the Lagoa and with a maximum depth of Verde and Lagoa Azul (Green 33 m, the Sete Cidades lake has and Blue lakes). To the west of a northwest-southeast length of Lagoa Azul (Blue Lake) is the vil- 4,225 m, a maximum width of lage with its usually isolated buil- 2,030 m and occupies an area dings, traditional architecture and of about 4.35 km2. The hydro- typical rural annexes, such as logical basin of Sete Cidades cafuões, granéis and arribanas. lake, with 19.3 km2 covers The Cumeeiras road — circling almost all of the Sete Cidades almost all of the volcanic depres- volcano caldera, and includes sion and which affords a fantastic intermittent streams such as panoramic view — and the those of the Grota do Inferno Peninsula are two other relevant and the Vala das Sete Cidades. morphological elements of Sete Two other lakes inside the Cidades, the latter appearing Sete Cidades caldera have as the tip of an arrow pointed distinct geomorphological fra- north-northwest in the Blue lake. meworks. Lagoa de Santiago However, the most relevant is deeply embedded in a nor- of all elements of the Sete thwest - southeast elongated Cidades landscape is undou- crater (1,150 x 850 m in size), btedly the water mass of the while Lagoa Rasa, as its name Sete Cidades lake which, by indicates (e.g.”shallow lake”), legend and story, men have is little more than 4 m deep. separated into two and baptized

13 – Lagoa Azul

An important hydrological net- Ponta da Ferraria and Mosteiros work can be found on the fanks (locally called “fajãs”), of the Sete Cidades volcano, eloquent testimonies of the whose watercourses, usually victory of the “fre” element of short and sloping, run frequently Nature over the “water” element as torrents and are thus named — in other words, the growth “grota” by the local population, a of the island of São Miguel designation usually attributed to was directly dependent on its torrential streams (e.g. creeks). volcanism and more specifcally The morphology of Sete Cidades due to the emission, fow and volcano is also marked by the conquest of the sea by lava presence of the lava deltas of fows emitted from the land.

14 4 Geology

– Mosteiros

The Sete Cidades volcano In the Sete Cidades volcano occupies the whole western part — which occupies an area of of São Miguel Island, stretching 110 km2 and a volume of 40 km3 from the interior to the coast at — are rocks dated at about Rocha da Relva and Ginetes, 210,000 years, but the oldest to Mosteiros, Bretanha and rocks of this central volcano will . Like the other major certainly be several hundred volcanoes of São Miguel (Fogo, thousand years old, as this Furnas and Povoação), the volcanic edifce rises from top of Sete Cidades volcano is the surrounding seafoor truncated by a wide volcanic at2,700 m deep. depression — the Sete Cidades In the past, this volcanic edifce caldera — where lies cozily nested was separate from the rest of the the village of Sete Cidades.

15 – Sete Cidades

island of São Miguel, existing average diameter of 5.3 km between the two a sea channel, and a depth of about 625 m. as is found today between The formation of this volcanic the islands Faial and Pico. caldera, a process that began This channel was progressively about 36,000 years ago, reduced and flled by the basaltic is associated with large and volcanism of the so - called violent volcanic eruptions which “Picos Volcanic Complex”, in only a few hours or days were signifcantly younger in age. responsible for the emission The Sete Cidades volcano of large quantities of volcanic caldera — an important materials (mainly pumice) and which, by emptying the deep- geosite of the Azores UNESCO World Geopark — has a seated magma chamber of the nearly circular outline with an Sete Cidades volcano, caused

16 4 Geology

the collapse of the top of the Given the predominantly volcano and the formation of explosive and siliceous nature this huge volcanic depression. of the volcanism that occurred The last eruption associated after the formation of the Sete with the Sete Cidades volcano Cidades volcano caldera - that corresponds to the Sabrina is, in approximately the last Island eruption in 1811, which 16,000 years — the most occurred at sea off the coast frequent rock deposits in this of Ponta da Ferraria and on area of São Miguel are pumice the submerged southwest or of pumitic nature, contrasting fanks of the central volcano. with the scoria deposits (locally called “cascalho”, gravel or Of this event there currently “bagacina” deposits) found in remains only a small seamount. the Serra Devassa area.

– Lagoa Azul 17 4 Geology

The geology of the Sete Cidades volcano is also marked by the presence on its northwestern fanks of the so-called “Mosteiros graben”, that is, morpho-tectonic structures characterized by a collapsed sector of the volcano surface, between normal faults.

18 5 Flora and Fauna

– Common heather (Calluna vulgaris)

Due to its morphological and beds of pineapple greenhouses; soil - climatic characteristics and to the introduction of exotic and abundance of water, Sete species, whether for timber pro- Cidades represents an important duction, such as cryptomeria ja- biotope for many zoological ponica, or for the ornamentation and botanical species. of roads and gardens, such as Although greatly changed in hydrangeas (Hydrangea macro- regard to the natural fora of the phylla), Azaleas (Rhododendron Azores due to the over-exploita- indicum) and Camellia Japonica, tion of natural forest resources there remain in the Sete Cidades for the use of wood as raw ma- Protected Landscape area some terial and for the manufacture of individualized areas with original charcoal; the transformation of ecosystems, such as peat moss the land into pasture; the extrac- (Sphagnum sp.) in Grota do tion of peat moss used for hot Inferno, the natural meadows

19 5 Flora and Fauna

– Peat Moss (Deschampia foliosam)

of Deschampia foliosa and Regarding aquatic fora Festuca and the arbores- those which stand out are, cent thickets of common among others, the: Egeria heather (Calluna vulga- densa, Potamogeton lucens, ris) in Serra Devassa. Potamogeton polygonifolius, Concerning the fora, special Litorella unifora, Mentha attention must be given to the aquatica, Elatine hexandra, great variety of mosses - about Myriophyllum alterniforum. 250 different species — as well For avifauna, the lakes of Sete as their rarity, which gives them Ciades assume particular im- special status in terms of nature portance as a point of passage conservation. The endemic on the route of migratory birds, species Lactuca watsoniana; especially several species of Angelica (Angelica lignescens); herons: little egret (Eggretta Rumex azoricus, Euphorbya garzetta); grey heron (Ardea stygiana, Caerophyllum azori- cinerea); and mallard ducks: cum; Platanthera pollosthanta, Aythya (Aythya collaris), occur in small populations mallard (Anas platyrhynchos), especially in the most rugged Common wig (Ana penelope), and diffcult to reach areas, common pochard (Aythya ferina). such as the Grota do Inferno.

20 5 Flora and Fauna

– Europea Robin (Erithacus rubecula)

The shores of Lagoa das Sete Cidades are also one of the few places in the archipelago where the common moorhen (Gallinula chloropus correiana) reproduces and where there is a nesting ground of common terns (Sterna-hirundo) on an artifcial island installed on the Blue Lake shore as part of a conservation project promo- ted by the Azores Regional Government through its Regional Environmental Department. The project aims to promote the reproduction of this species. Among the resident avifauna there stands out the Azorean wood pigeon (Columba palum- bus azorica), common blackbird (Turdus merula azorensis), goldcrest (Regulus regulus – Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) 21 5 Flora and Fauna

azoricus), Azorean grey wagtail Final mention should be made (Motacilla cinerea patriciae) of the presence of the only and the common buzzard mammal endemic to the Azores (Buteo buteo rothschildi). archipelago, the Azorean Innumerous species of fsh bat (Nyctalus azoreum). have been introduced Into the Lagoa das Sete Cidades, such as carp (Cyprinus car- pio), pike (Esox lucius), perch (Perca fuvialis), roach (Rutilus rutilus); cambarid freshwater crayfsh (Procambarus clarkii) and the amphibian Iberian Pond Frogor (Rana perezi).

– Serra Devassa

22 6 Protected Landscape

– Lagoa Azul

The Sete Cidades Protected village of Sete Cidades. Here, Landscape is located at the the Human-Environmental western end of the Island and relationship assumes an extraor- comprises an area of 2173.43 ha, dinary role and proper resource presenting an interesting diver- management is fundamental sity of landscape that refects for maintaining the balance. perfect harmony between natural The wealth of water resources, values and human activities. the presence of protected fora This protected area includes and fauna and priority habitats, agricultural land, forest stands has led to this protected area and also an urban area, the being classifed as a Ramsar site

23 6 Protected area

under the Wetlands Convention On September 11th 2010, Lagoa and integrated into the environ- das Sete Cidades was elected mental biotope project CORINE. as one of the Seven Wonders Lagoa das Sete Cidades is of , in the Non-Marine classifed as a protected water Aquatic Zones category. body through the Sete Cidades To know more about the na- Lake Land Development and tural values of this protected Watershed Plan (POBHLSC), area and the São Miguel with the objective to improve Natural Park visit the Loja do water quality and the preser- Parque das Sete Cidades. vation of natural resources, to make human uses and activities compatible with the environmen- tal protection of the watershed.

24 7 Walking trails

Vista do Rei Sete Cidades PR3 SMI

Difculty: easy | Extention: 7 km | Time average: 2h00

This route begins at Vista Vasco viewpoint you can see do Rei viewpoint, given its the north-northwest coast of São name due to the presen- Miguel island, highlighting the ce of the King D. Carlos villages of Ginetes, Várzea and and the Queen D. Amelia, Mosteiros, with its four islets. th on the 6 of July 1901. When you reach the regional The trail is followed by way of road that connects the village an unpaved track that starts on of the Sete Cidades to Várzea, the western side of Cumeeira take the path to the right and da Caldeira das Sete Cidades then turn left on an unpaved (Caldeira’s highest point). Along track. When you see the “Casa the trail you can see broad views da Seara” (Seara House) there of the interior of the caldera, is a junction, where you will the Green and Blue Lakes, turn left again along the path the village of Sete Cidades, of Arrebentões towards the Caldeira Seca and Caldeira center of the village of Sete do Alferes (a cone of pumice Cidades, where the route ends. holding in its interior a small lagoon). From the Lomba do

25 7 Walking trails

Mata do Canário Sete Cidades PR4 SMI

Difculty: easy | Extention: 12 km | Time average: 3h00

The trail starts next to the appreciate magnifcent views “Muro das Nove Janelas”, of the Lagoa das Sete Cidades a stone aqueduct with nine and the Lagoa de Santiago. arcades that was built to supply The Lomba do Vasco viewpoint water to the public fountains offers a breathtaking view of the of the city of Ponta Delgada. Sete Cidades caldera, where After passing through a forest Lagoa Azul stands out in the of Japanese Cedars foreground, in the background (Cryptomeria japonica) and a Lagoa Verde, on the west shore steep cemented rise, you will the village of Sete Cidades reach the top of Pico da Cruz, and to east the Peninsula where you can see broad pa- and Cerrado das Freiras. noramic views of the north and When you arrive at “Casa da south coasts of the island in the Seara” (Seara House) there foreground, with the Serra de is a crossroad, where you Água de Pau as a backdrop. should turn left along the From this point the route fol- Arrebentões road, towards the lows the north crest of Lagoa center of the parish of Sete Azul, where all along we can Cidades, where the route ends.

26 7 Walking trails

Serra Devassa PRC5 SMI

Difculty: easy | Extention: 4,2 km | Time average: 2h00

This trail begins and ends next of 873 m, from where you can see to the Recreational Forest of inside the crater the two Lagoas Lagoa do Canário, where the lake das Éguas, North and South. of the same name is located. Here there is a small viewpoint The route follows an unpaved that offers an excellent view over track, which crosses the en- Lagoa Rasa, in the foreground, tire mountain range of Serra with the small Caldeirão Pequeno Devassa (a mountainous area Norte and Caldeirão Pequeno that develops to the southeast Sul lakes in the background. of Sete Cidades caldera). The trail continues towards Along the climb to Pico das Lagoa Rasa, a small lake Éguas summit you can see a that aforetime supplied water small volcanic cone with a lake to the old alcohol factory in inside, the Lagoa do Pau-Pique, Santa Clara (1884-1905). which is fanked by the ruins of Surrounding the Lagoa Rasa an old stone aqueduct known as you should continue on the the “Muro das Nove Janelas”. path that goes around the The highest point of this route is Pico das Éguas, back again the Pico das Éguas, with a height to the Lagoa do Canário.

27 8 What to do – outdoor activities

Outdoor activities are considered or a telescope, ducks, coots or to be those practiced in a natural moorhens. Sete Cidades is also environment for the enjoyment one of the few habitats of the of its environmental and cultural archipelago where the Azorean aspects, while maintaining con- moorhen reproduces. Lagoa de cern for their impact on natural Santiago or Caldeira do Alferes resources and local community. are also other places highly With its natural beauty, the sought after for bird watching. Protected Landscape of Sete Sport Fishing Cidades is the perfect place In the waters of Sete Cidades for practicing outdoor activi- there are several species of ties. Among them we have: fsh such as the common carp Hiking (Cyprinus carpio), mirror carp In chapter 7 of this guide you (Cyprinus specularis), pike (Esox will fnd information regarding lucius), perch (Perca fuviatilis), Sete Cidades classifed wal- redheaded fsh (Rutílus rutílus) king trails. For more informa- and trout (Salmo iridens gi- tion on the Azores Network brons). To practice sport fshing of Classifed Walking Trails a license is required from the visit trails.visitazores.com. Regional Government. You can obtain the license from the Ponta Birdwatching Delgada Forestry Services. Sete Cidades is an important area for the observation of mi- Bike Tours gratory species. The bridge that There are several trails around divides the blue and the green the Sete Cidades lakes. Baía lakes is an excellent spot to ob- do Silêncio, Canto dos Carneiros serve, with the help of binoculars and the tunnel are excellent places to practice this activity.

28 8 What to do – outdoor activities

– Walking trails

According to the route recomen- ded in Sete Cidades map you have 16 km distance for cycling. Canoe and Paddle Tours Next to the environmental complex of Sete Cidades there are several tourist ani- mation companies that rent canoes and paddle boards. – Canoing

29 8 What to do – outdoor activities

Horseback / Horse Buggy Riding Geocaching The area surrounding the Sete There are many treasures Cidades lakes (Baia do Silêncio (caches) hidden along and the peninsula) and the the Sete Cidades village parish itself are very suitable and surroundings. For for horseback riding, providing more information visit a pleasant experience. www.geocaching.com.

– Bike tours

30 8 What to do – outdoor activities

Viewpoints and other places of interest To enjoy nature, whether on foot, the Fontenary, São Nicolau by car, by jeep or by bicycle you Church, the Bandstand, can visit viewpoints such as: the Picturesque Garden, Vista do Rei, Cerrado the old tea factory and the das Freiras, Lagoa de Santiago, forest area of Mata da Casa. Lomba do Vasco and Grota For information on companies do Inferno. You can also enjoy, that carry out the various acti- on foot, beautiful spots like vities described above, please the Lagoa das Empadadas, consult the offcial Azores tourism the aqueduct, the tunnel, website: www.visitazores.com the Regos Bridge, picnic areas;

– Joelette tours 31 9 Code of conduct

When visiting Sete Cidades, pay particular attention to a set of standards of conduct essential not only for your safety, but also for the conservation of the natural, cultural and historical heritage of these protected areas.

• Respect local people, ways • Do not forget that sometimes of life and traditions; the same route may be used by visitors on foot, on horseback, • Avoid noise and attitudes on bicycle or in motor vehicles: that disturb the tranquility we ask for mutual respect of the place; and common sense; • Keep at a distance from • The existing trails should animals, do not feed them; be used by small groups • Do not pick up plants or at one time: an excessive geological samples: leave number of visitors can cause them for other visitors to see; damage and destruction of the natural elements; • Do not throw trash on the ground: deposit it in the • Respect private property, proper places or take it close gates if you pass them to a place where there is in the course of an activity; a collection service; • Picnics should be done at • Do not start a fre; the picnic areas available in the areas to visit: please • Practice nature activities inquire about their location in authorized places and before starting your visit; with all safety conditions; • Contact the competent • Whenever possible, authorities whenever you notice be accompanied by any irregularities or in the event accredited monitors; of an accident or emergency.

32 – Sete Cidades

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