Download Book
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
Textile Society of America Newsletter 23:2 •Fl Spring/Summer 2011
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America Spring 2011 Textile Society of America Newsletter 23:2 — Spring/Summer 2011 Textile Society of America Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 23:2 — Spring/Summer 2011" (2011). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 61. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/61 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Textile VOLUME 23 n NUMBER 2 n SPRING/SUMMER, 2011 Society of America Tinkuy de Tejedores by Marilyn Murphy CONTENTS accompanied with translations in English, Quechua, and Spanish. 1 Tinkuy de Tejedores Topics covering fiber and natu- 2 TSA News ral dyes, ancient and traditional 3 From the President weaving, and the recovery and commercialization of textiles 4 TSA Study Tours were crammed into two days. 5 TSA Member News Representatives from the commu- 8 Tinkuy de Tejedores, cont’d. nities spoke alongside the scholars and other invited guests. Q&A 9 Conference Reviews time followed each presentation. 10 Symposium 2010: Reports by For most of the first day, the TSA Award Recipients questions came from the English- 11 Textile Community News speaking participants. But slowly, 13 Book Reviews the indigenous women’s voices emerged. 14 Publication News GATHERING OF WEAVERS The Welcome Ceremony The richness of Tinkuy went 15 Featured Collection: American took place in the Sacred was led by an Andean priest, far beyond the speakers and their Swedish Institute A Valley of Peru Nov. -
Paper7 Frommel, Gaiani, Apollonio & Bertacchi Some Reconstruction
SCIentific RESearch and Information Technology Ricerca Scientifica e Tecnologie dell'Informazione Vol 10, Issue 1 (2020), 53-66 e-ISSN 2239-4303, DOI 10.2423/i22394303v10n1p53 Open access article licensed under CC-BY-NC-ND CASPUR-CIBER Publishing, http://www.sciresit.it SOME RECONSTRUCTION HYPOTHESES OF LEONARDO’S PROJECT FOR THE TIBURIO OF THE MILAN CATHEDRAL BY USING 3D DIGITAL MODELS Sabine Frommel*, Fabrizio Ivan Apollonio**, Marco Gaiani**, Gianna Bertacchi** *École Pratique des Hautes Études, Sorbonne - Paris, France **Department of Architecture, Alma Mater Studiorum University of Bologna - Bologna, Italy. Abstract This paper analyses possible interpretations of the unbuilt Leonardo's project for the tiburio of the Milan cathedral, depicted in two sheets of the Codex Atlanticus, using digital tools, mainly 3D modelling techniques. Starting from existing studies and hypothetical reconstructions of Leonardo’s project, exploiting only analogue methods (i.e. 2D drawing techniques), new in- depth analyses are presented. In detail the use of 3D modelling allows a systematic analysis of the possible solutions for the ability to easily reconstruct the plan of each solution investigated starting from the section represented by Leonardo in the Codex Atlanticus. Results lead to multiple interpretative solutions of this complex architecture. Keywords Leonardo da Vinci, Tiburio, Cathedral, Milan, Unbuilt architecture, Virtual reconstruction, 3D modeling. 1. Introduction these two sheets. The information that several other sketches provide regarding this project is The present contribution analyses some also limited. possible reconstructions of Leonardo’s project for Even if these sketches tell us that Leonardo, the tiburio of the Milan cathedral using digital during his entire life, carried out in-depth studies tools, mainly 3D modelling techniques. -
The Architecture of the Italian Renaissance
•••••••• ••• •• • .. • ••••---• • • - • • ••••••• •• ••••••••• • •• ••• ••• •• • •••• .... ••• .. .. • .. •• • • .. ••••••••••••••• .. eo__,_.. _ ••,., .... • • •••••• ..... •••••• .. ••••• •-.• . PETER MlJRRAY . 0 • •-•• • • • •• • • • • • •• 0 ., • • • ...... ... • • , .,.._, • • , - _,._•- •• • •OH • • • u • o H ·o ,o ,.,,,. • . , ........,__ I- .,- --, - Bo&ton Public ~ BoeMft; MA 02111 The Architecture of the Italian Renaissance ... ... .. \ .- "' ~ - .· .., , #!ft . l . ,."- , .• ~ I' .; ... ..__ \ ... : ,. , ' l '~,, , . \ f I • ' L , , I ,, ~ ', • • L • '. • , I - I 11 •. -... \' I • ' j I • , • t l ' ·n I ' ' . • • \• \\i• _I >-. ' • - - . -, - •• ·- .J .. '- - ... ¥4 "- '"' I Pcrc1·'· , . The co11I 1~, bv, Glacou10 t l t.:• lla l'on.1 ,111d 1 ll01nc\ S t 1, XX \)O l)on1c111c. o Ponrnna. • The Architecture of the Italian Renaissance New Revised Edition Peter Murray 202 illustrations Schocken Books · New York • For M.D. H~ Teacher and Prie11d For the seamd edillo11 .I ltrwe f(!U,riucu cerurir, passtJgts-,wwbly thOS<' on St Ptter's awl 011 Pnlladfo~ clmrdses---mul I lr,rvl' takeu rhe t>pportrmil)' to itJcorporate m'1U)1 corrt·ctfons suggeSLed to nu.• byfriet1ds mu! re11iewers. T'he publishers lwvc allowed mr to ddd several nt•w illusrra,fons, and I slumld like 10 rltank .1\ Ir A,firlwd I Vlu,.e/trJOr h,'s /Jelp wft/J rhe~e. 711f 1,pporrrm,ty /t,,s 11/so bee,r ft1ke,; Jo rrv,se rhe Biblfogmpl,y. Fc>r t/Jis third edUfor, many r,l(lre s1m1II cluu~J!eS lwvi: been m"de a,,_d the Biblio,~raphy has (IJICt more hN!tl extet1si11ely revised dtul brought up to date berause there has l,een mt e,wrmc>uJ incretlJl' ;,, i111eres1 in lt.1lim, ,1rrhi1ea1JrP sittr<• 1963,. wlte-,r 11,is book was firs, publi$hed. It sh<>uld be 110/NI that I haw consistc11tl)' used t/1cj<>rm, 1./251JO and 1./25-30 to 111e,w,.firs1, 'at some poiHI betwt.·en 1-125 nnd 1430', .md, .stamd, 'begi,miug ilJ 1425 and rnding in 14.10'. -
Textile Society of America Newsletter 21:3 — Fall 2009 Textile Society of America
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America Fall 2009 Textile Society of America Newsletter 21:3 — Fall 2009 Textile Society of America Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 21:3 — Fall 2009" (2009). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 56. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/56 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. T VOLUME 21 NUMBER 3 FALL, 2009 S A Conservation of Three Hawaiian Feather Cloaks by Elizabeth Nunan and Aimée Ducey CONTENTS ACRED GARMENTS ONCE to fully support the cloaks and and the feathers determined the worn by the male mem- provide a culturally appropriate scope of the treatment. 1 Conservation of Three Hawaiian bers of the Hawaiian ali’i, display. The museum plans to The Chapman cloak is Feather Cloaks S or chiefs, feather cloaks and stabilize the entire collection in thought to be the oldest in the 2 Symposium 2010: Activities and capes serve today as iconic order to alternate the exhibition collection, dating to the mid-18th Exhibitions symbols of Hawaiian culture. of the cloaks, therefore shorten- century, and it is also the most 3 From the President During the summer of 2007 ing the display period of any deteriorated. -
The Turkish-Iranian Horse Hair Face-Veil1
Persica 21, 89-98. doi: 10.2143/PERS.21.0.2022789THE TURKISH-IRANIAN © HORSE 2006-2007 HAIR by FACE-VEIL Persica. All rights reserved. 89 THE TURKISH-IRANIAN HORSE HAIR FACE-VEIL1 Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood Textile Research Centre, Leiden Willem Vogelsang National Museum of Ethnology, Leiden Horse hair veils in Ottoman Turkey In the early sixteenth century, the Belgian artist and tapestry designer, Pieter Coecke van Aelst (AD 1502-1550), visited Constantinopel/Istanbul to attract work for the Brussels tapestry workshops.2 He arrived at the Turkish Ottoman capital in AD 1533. His stay in Istanbul, however, was not a success and he left the city after about a year. During his stay, he made a number of drawings that were turned into woodcuts and published posthumously by his widow, Mayken Verhulst Bessemers, and called Les Moeurs et Fachons de Faire des Turz.3 These illustrations provide a glimpse of what people were wearing in Istanbul in those days, both men and women. Of particular interest are the face veils. On one of the woodcuts, it is clear that some of the women (servants) wear what came to be called a lisam, namely a length of cloth that was wrapped around the lower half of the face (Fig. 1).4 Another type of face veil, shown in the same illustration and apparently worn by some Istanbul women in addition to the lisam, was a rectangular piece of cloth that was tied around the forehead and hung downwards, over the lisam. From this and other illustrations it seems as if this type of face veil was made of very stiff material, which would indicate the use of horse hair. -
Milan and the Lakes Travel Guide
MILAN AND THE LAKES TRAVEL GUIDE Made by dk. 04. November 2009 PERSONAL GUIDES POWERED BY traveldk.com 1 Top 10 Attractions Milan and the Lakes Travel Guide Leonardo’s Last Supper The Last Supper , Leonardo da Vinci’s 1495–7 masterpiece, is a touchstone of Renaissance painting. Since the day it was finished, art students have journeyed to Milan to view the work, which takes up a refectory wall in a Dominican convent next to the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. The 20th-century writer Aldous Huxley called it “the saddest work of art in the world”: he was referring not to the impact of the scene – the moment when Christ tells his disciples “one of you will betray me” – but to the fresco’s state of deterioration. More on Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519) Crucifixion on Opposite Wall Top 10 Features 9 Most people spend so much time gazing at the Last Groupings Supper that they never notice the 1495 fresco by Donato 1 Leonardo was at the time studying the effects of Montorfano on the opposite wall, still rich with colour sound and physical waves. The groups of figures reflect and vivid detail. the triangular Trinity concept (with Jesus at the centre) as well as the effect of a metaphysical shock wave, Example of Ageing emanating out from Jesus and reflecting back from the 10 Montorfano’s Crucifixion was painted in true buon walls as he reveals there is a traitor in their midst. fresco , but the now barely visible kneeling figures to the sides were added later on dry plaster – the same method “Halo” of Jesus Leonardo used. -
Day 4 - 12Th September Milan Cathedral Milan Cathedral Milan Is Famous for the Enormous White Marble Cathedral Which Was Started in 1386, but Only Completed in 1897
Day 4 - 12th September Milan Cathedral Milan Cathedral Milan is famous for the enormous white marble Cathedral which was started in 1386, but only completed in 1897. It is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world, and amazing to visit. It is a jaw dropping moment as you step through the bronze door portals, after having a security bag check, to see the pillars of the Cathedral with sculptured figures circling the top of every pillar. A rehearsal is taking place so music wafts through the holy space. We descend to the Baptistry which has the 1st octagonal basin in Christendom from 378. The stained glass and chapels make up this colossal masterpiece. We climb the stairs to the terraces of the Cathedral and see some of the 3400 statues that adorn it and walk on the marble sloping roof down to a forest of pinnacles taking a somewhat hair raising climb up more marble steps to the plateau of the roof to see the golden Virgin Mary at 108.5m high (365 feet) on the spire, glinting in the hot sun! By the Cathedral is the Museum of Mecento, which houses 20th century art including Mussolini’s Arengario. We walk up on a space ship like spiral ramp to see paintings by Campigli, de Chirico, Picasso and Umberto Boccioni. Next door is the Royal Palazzo Reale with a futuristic exhibition, but also the tapestries and ceilings of the restored Royal Palace. The other spectacular building in the Cathedral Piazza is the 1877 Gallery Vittorio Emanuelle II which his buzzing with people shopping and eating. -
Leonardo Da Vinci and Benedikt Ried
České vysoké u čení v Praze, fakulta architektury Czech Technical University in Prague, Faculty of Architecture Doc. PhDr. Pavel Kalina, CSc. Leonardo da Vinci a Benedikt Ried Leonardo da Vinci and Benedikt Ried 1 SUMMARY Leonardo da Vinci was not only an “ingenious” painter, but first of all a universal advisor in varied areas including architecture and technical sciences. Benedikt Ried, on the other hand, was “only” an architect. The profession of an architect of his time included, however, a row of activities related to building planning and realizations. Some aspects of their work may be compared as they were contemporaries and it is impossible to exclude that they used the same sources. The first area in which it is possible to find common features is the architectural naturalism. Leonardo created the decoration of Sala delle Asse in the Castello Sforzesco which changed its vault into a stage for illusionistic branches and other floral motives. Similarly, Benedikt Ried designed the Royal Oratory in St Vitus Cathedral in Prague where the traditional ribs were substituted by stone branches. This kind of naturalism expresses an understanding of a building as an organism. The second common area is the fortification architecture. Benedikt Ried is the probable author of the outer fortification of Rábí Castle in south-western Bohemia, which is completely different from local tradition. This fortification includes a polygonal bastion, which is probably the oldest one in Central Europe. Leonardo is sometimes identified as the author of the fortress La Verruca near Pisa, defended by polygonal bastions. In his sketchbooks it is possible to find hundreds of fortification studies as well as studies dedicated to problems of ballistics and mechanics which could serve as a basis for his fortification studies. -
DESIGN in MILAN Via Bergognone 40 with a Sense of Trepidation, Or Perhaps Incredulity; However, This Did Not Endure Long
companies, engineering hubs and, in this case, fashion. On the Saturday, the students entered the Armani Silos at DESIGN in MILAN Via Bergognone 40 with a sense of trepidation, or perhaps incredulity; however, this did not endure long. We were treated Their historical product gallery is a collection of some of the to a voyage through the mind of Giorgio Armani with what most famous designers of the 20th Century, including names seemed like an endless chain of colour-filled concrete rooms such as Philippe Stark, Michael all burgeoning with timeless classics, Graves and Richard Sapper. In this and a guide that filled the mind. inspirational space, Dr Alberto By the time we emerged, we were Alessi’s PA gave a truly exceptional overflowing with both visual and design-business presentation that intellectual possibilities, leaving no any graduate student would have space for more. We had walked around offered their right arm to be able some 4,500 square meters and seen to share. We then headed off to the approximately 1,000 outfits categorized Alessi museum in a private wing that by seasons and collections, images of houses a vast and interesting range 2,000 garments and accessories, and of models and prototypes created numerous sketches, fashion show and by famous designers and architects, backstage videos, images taken from offering a valuable snapshot into the Emporio Armani Magazine and the history of 20th Century Italian design. The aim of the iconic advertising photos. Alessi museum, opened in the spring of 1998, is to conserve and showcase all the objects, designs, images and materials of As if this were not enough, the students transversed the all types that document the company’s history and research. -
Textile Research Centre Leiden Annual Report for the Year 2014
Annual Report 2014 TEXTILE RESEARCH CENTRE LEIDEN ANNUAL REPORT FOR THE YEAR 2014 Textile Research Centre Hogewoerd 164 2311 HW Leiden, The Netherlands [email protected] www.trc-leiden.nl 1 Annual Report 2014 Chairman's Comments The Stichting Textile Research Centre, Leiden Once again, TRC’s Annual Report for the year 2014 The Stichting (‘Foundation’) Textile Research Centre shows an amazing host of activities for a small was established in 1991 with the stated aim of organisation like TRC. The activities range from supporting the academic research of archaeological courses, exhibitions and workshops, as well as and anthropological textiles and dress. The most special days such as those celebrating the British important part of our work is the building up and author, Jane Austin. There is also an increasing study of a textile and dress collection. These number of projects associated with the TRC, both in garments are available for research and exhibition the Netherlands and abroad. The wide range of work purposes. presented to the world public by the TRC’s website and Facebook is especially worthwhile mentioning. The Board The TRC truly is an international centre for the study The board is currently made up of the following: of textiles and dress. Chairman: Prof. L. Leertouwer Treasurer: Prof. J. Bintliff (retired September 2014) The secret behind this imposing performance is Secretary: Dr. K. Innemee revealed in Tineke Moerkerk’s contribution about the volunteers in this report. “We never know what will General board members: Prof. R. Bedaux (retired happen, but we do know that it will be interesting September 2014), Mrs. -
On the Art and the Culture of Domes. Construction in Milan and Lombardy in the Late Sixteenth and in the First Half of the Seventeenth Century
Proceedings of the First International Congress on Construction History, Madrid, 20th-24th January 2003, ed. S. Huerta, Madrid: I. Juan de Herrera, SEdHC, ETSAM, A. E. Benvenuto, COAM, F. Dragados, 2003. On the art and the culture of domes. Construction in Milan and Lombardy in the late sixteenth and in the first half of the seventeenth century Irene Giustina In absence of objective and universally accepted Lorenzo,' ruined in 1573 and re-planned by Martino knowledge of statics, the construction of domes Bassi, figure 1, and the dome of the church of S. seems to have represented, until at least the end of the Alessandro, built in 1626 by Lorenzo Binago and XIX century, one of the most difficult problems for demolished in 1627,4 figure 2. architects and builders. Through the examination of the archival The moment of the undertaking of domes -apart documents, the proposed plans and the executed from the formal and the expressive purposes, the interventions in these two milanese buildings, the selected geometry and the building techniques, the present paper intend to fulfil a first general outline of involved human and economical resources- often the planning aspects, the construction practice and the led architects, owners and building yards to cautious understanding of the behaviour of masonry domes in pauses, that could even last centuries, implying the re- Milan architecture between the second half of the examination of the original plans, or sometimes the XVI and the first half of the XVII century. reconsideration of what was already built, or even the During this historical period, that largely coincides settlement of completely different projects.