NEWSLETTER 1 47, Number Volume Greece: from Athens to Thessaloniki

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E Trip photographs by Barry Scott

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July 2018

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O M S Thomas Wolfe’s house in Asheville Thomas Wolfe’s Participants outside Biltmore outside Participants - - - - - Winston-Salem and Asheville Winston-Salem spent much of his spent of much Summertime in Western North Carolina:Summertime in Western North

Arriving in Winston-Salem, our group Our group visited two extraordinary

Assembled beginning in the this 1960s, Continued on 4 page lage, farmbuildings, and thehouse. We took a tour Reynolda House of and its wonderful collection American of art. with landscape engineersto enrich the poor soil and create the lake and gardens, and, with an architect, to design the vil homes for estatehomes for staff. Katherine Reyn boughtolds the land and was in charge of building the estate. hired She and worked Village, now restaurantsVillage, now and shops, were example, dairy for previously, barns, a smokehouse, a blacksmith and shop, developed between 1912 and 1917 by R.J. by and 1917 betweendeveloped 1912 Reynolds and his wife, Katherine Smith Reynolds. The buildings in Reynolda had lunch in Reynolda Village, once a part Reynolda estate. of The estate was house where Thomas Wolfe, thehouse author where Thomas of Wolfe, Angel, Homeward Look inyouth Asheville. vians in 1766, and its gardens,vians in houses, 1766, shops, andvisited museum. the We Historic Thomasthe Site, boarding Wolfe completely different completely from these estates. theexplored historicWe district Old of Salem, the town established the by Mora estates, Reynolda House and Museum in Winston-Salemand Biltmore Estate in also explored two venues Asheville. We bus on Tuesday morning, and re bus on Tuesday June19, turned on Sunday evening, June 24. Society visited Winston-Salem and Ashe villein western North Carolina six for days left this early chartered by June. We Nancy S. Saylor members theEleven Mediterranean of NEWSLETTER 1 47, Number Volume Greece: From Athens to Thessaloniki

The Society is planning a trip to Greece in May 2019. Greece, known as the cradle of Western civilization, has one of the most important cultures of the Mediterranean area and has been visited many times by members of the Mediterranean Society. For this trip the focus will be on the two major cities of Greece, Athens and Thes- saloniki, with short stops to visit Delphi and Meteora. The trip will start with five nights in Athens and end with five nights in Thessaloniki. One night will be spent in Delphi and one night in Meteora. There are many important cultural and archaeological sites in Greece, some designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. On this trip, the hotels in Athens and Thessaloniki will be in the historic centers of the cities with easy access to the sites. Day trips will also be taken to see sites outside of Athens and Thessaloniki. Some of the planned visits are as follows: The Daphni Monastery is an eleventh century Byzantine monastery an approxi- Meteora

David Savanyu (left) is welcomed to the Board by President Scott and Board Member Bill Stoops. David was appointed to finish the term of long-time Board Member Meade Boswell, who died last year.

Mediterr anean Society of America Board of Directors 2017–18 Term ending Term ending Term ending Director Emeritus October 31, 2018: October 31, 2019: October 31, 2020: W. Douglas W. Gottwald, Jr. Patricia E Archer Victoria A. Ashby Eugenia H. Borum OFFICERS Julian Ward Jones, Jr. John H. Harris Julia Proctor President: Julia Scott David A. Savanyu Margaret D. Hicks Nancy S. Saylor Vice President: Julia Proctor William G. Stoops, Jr. Elisabeth Flynn-Chapman Julia S. Scott Secretary: Wayne Tucker C. Wayne Tucker Elaine M. Themo Carolyn H. Spencer Treasurer: Nancy Saylor

PAGE 2 mately thirty-minute drive northwest of central Athens. It was founded in the 6th century on the site of the sanctuary of Apollo. The monastery is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its significant architectural and historic value and is especially noted for its beauti- ful interior gold mosaics. Eleusis archaeological site is located an approximately fifteen-minute drive from the Daphni monastery. It was the location of a very important sanctuary where the Eleusinian Mysteries took place every year around the end of September. The Eleusinian Mysteries, lasting nine days, were an initiation ceremony to the cult of Demeter and revolved around the myth of Persephone and took place in the Archaic Era but acquired special signifi- Thessaloniki, White Tower cance in Classical and Hellenistic times. Eleusis and the mysteries retained their importance during the Roman era, and the site was occupied even in Byzantine times as the archaeological record shows. Historic Center of Athens: The Hermes Hotel, where we will stay in Athens, is located in the Plaka neighborhood. The an- cient sites in the historic center of Athens are no more than a fifteen-minute walk from the hotel. The Plaka neighborhood is charming, filled with shops and restaurants, and mostly accessed by foot. We will visit the Acropolis, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the New Acropolis Museum. National Archaeological Museum The Acropolis in Athens and Sounion: The museum houses some of the most important artifacts from These monasteries were built beginning tions. We will also take day trips out of the a variety of archaeological locations in the 11th century. Their 16th-century fres- city to visit the Phillipi archaeological site, in Greece. The Temple of Poseidon at coes mark a key stage in the development the archaeological site of Vergina and mu- Sounion, overlooking the sea, is one of the of post-Byzantine painting. seum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai, and the most spectacular sites in Greece. After one night in Meteora, we will archaeological site of Pella. The Phillipi Delphi and Meteora are both continue to Thessaloniki, with a stop at the archaeological site is the most important UNESCO World Heritage Sites. We will Dion archaeological park, the most impor- site in Eastern Macedonia and a UNESCO spend one night in each location after tour- tant archaeological site at Mount Olympus. World Heritage Site. The archaeological ing the sites. Delphi is probably the most Sanctuaries were found here from both the site of Vergina is also a UNESCO World important archaeological site in Greece Hellenistic and Roman periods. Heritage Site. Pella is known as the birth- after the Acropolis. There are many im- Our trip will end with five nights in place of Alexander the Great. portant monuments at Delphi from both Thessaloniki, located on the Aegean Sea, A brochure with specific information an artistic and historic perspective. The the second largest city in Greece. The hotel regarding the trip will be mailed to all monasteries at Meteora are set in a spec- will be located in the city center, within members of the Mediterranean Society in tacular natural setting of rock formations. walking distance of many of the attrac- the fall.

PAGE 3 Summertime in Western North Carolina continued

Lunch in Old Salem At right is Old Salem Garden

remarkable collection covers three centuries of American art. Seeing these great paintings in a household setting enhanced the visit of both the house and the art; every room held delightful surprises. Even though the house is large, the proportions of the rooms make it feel comfortable, ready both for parties and for family life. Views from the house are of the gardens and grounds. We sadly had to leave a stroll in the gardens for another time. We visited Old Salem the next day. Old Salem Historic District is a National Historic Landmark (NHL) where Mora- vian life in the 18th and 19th centuries is interpreted for visitors. The organized garb as they worked the garden beds. As mediately clear that Asheville is a vibrant restoration of the town began in 1950 al- part of this restoration effort, the gardeners place. After lunch we enjoyed a lively though some buildings had been restored not only grow, but save seeds of, heritage guided tour of the boarding house where previously. Home Moravian Church, in plants and sell them in one of the stores Thomas Wolfe lived with his mother. the middle of Old Salem, was established in Old Salem. Most of our group visited Asheville in the early 1900s was a thriv- in 1771 and has been in operation ever the doctor’s house to learn more about his ing place for tourists to take a cure; board- since. We had dinner in Old Salem at the work and the health of the townspeople. ing houses were less expensive than the Salem Tavern (designated separately as an A few of us also visited the pottery, the few hotels available. Mrs. Wolfe saw own- NHL) on our first night in the city. silversmith’s shop, and Home Church. We ership of a boarding house as an invest- The Old Salem gardens continue to un- also visited the Museum of Early Southern ment, an opportunity to make money. She dergo restoration to highlight the specific Decorative Art, a part of Old Salem, and packed in her boarders and used Thomas, plants in use during the 18th and 19th cen- especially enjoyed seeing the pottery that her youngest son, as unpaid help; it seems turies. Our group had a superb garden tour had been found in Old Salem. he never had a bedroom of his own. This in the morning, hearing about these plants Our group arrived in downtown Ashe- and the family’s difficult story formed the and talking with the gardeners in period ville late morning the next day. It was im- background for Look Homeward Angel.

PAGE 4 We also took a trolley tour of Asheville at the back of the house we could enjoy along the way how the land was trans- to get an overview of the city before we the expansive mountain view. The library formed to build the estate. We also learned checked into our hotel. and tapestry gallery can be found to the that forest land the Vanderbilts sold to the Biltmore Estate was our focus for the left of the entrance hall. Vanderbilt’s federal government became the first U.S. remainder of our trip. To add to our ex- library of 10,000 volumes covers many national forest. Prior to this sale, this for- perience, Dale Chihuly’s glass sculptures languages and different topics. Vanderbilt est was managed by Gifford Pinchot, who were on display in Biltmore’s gardens for collected art in Europe and commissioned would become the first head of the U.S. a special exhibit while we were there. The John Singer Sargent to paint a number of Forest Service. His management plan development of Biltmore is a fascinating family portraits. Several of us debated formed the basis for the way all national story. When George Vanderbilt brought whether a portrait of Edith Vanderbilt in forests are managed today. his mother to Asheville to improve her the tapestry gallery was by Sargent or the Six of us spent a few evening hours at the RR RR health in the late 1880s, he fell in love with illustrator Gibson. The painter it turns houseIT andE in theA Ngarden to see the effects ITE AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN IE AN the beauty of the mountains and decided out was Giovanni Boldini, a Paris painter of nighttimeC lightingE Aon the Chihuly glass C E A E O A E O A S N S N to build a summer estate in Asheville. and friend of Sargent’s who was well- M art. Being there in the evening amplified M Vanderbilt commissioned Richard Morris known for his “swish” style of portraiture. the beauty of the landscape and the house, Hunt, a prominent New York architect, Vanderbilt also purchased many great especially as the sun set over the moun- E E A R A R and Frederick Law Olmstead, the land- prints during his trips to Europe; these canM tains, turningN the sky fromM pink to rose. M N M O S T R U O S T R U scape designer who created Central Park, be found mainly in the upstairs rooms. S Creating the estate visitors see today from S O O to create the house and the landscape Most of our group took the upstairs- C the land Vanderbilt boughtA was a truly as- C A C C design. downstairs tour of the mansion. This is ItonishingE MCM transformation.LXVIII I Robin Price, one IE MCMLXVIII I TY ER TY ER The land Vanderbilt had purchased was a fascinating look at how the household of our Otravelers,F A M wrote: “What stays with OF A M quite poor. It took over six years to build worked from the staff’s point of view. One me after the trip is the whole saga of creat- the house. To create the house, three miles of the most intriguing parts of this tour ing the grounds at Biltmore out of barren, of railway tracks had to be laid to bring was a visit to the room of Edith Vander- played-out farmland. When I think about RR RR materials to the site, and a brick kiln and bilt’s lady’s maid. We could see how she the feats of engineeringITE AN and science it took ITE AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN IE AN E C E A E C E A a woodworking factory were built on-site. interacted with Vanderbilt, saw some of to produce theO woodlandA vista of the ap- O A S N S N To create the landscape, the soil had to be the clothes and shoes, and got a differ- proach road,M replete with babbling brooks M enriched; water reservoirs had to be estab- ent visual perspective on how the house diverted from Etheir original sources, I’m E A R A R M N M M N M O S T R U O S T R U lished; streams had to be engineered from worked. Our group took the Legacy of the amazed atS the power of the hand of manS O O C A C A their source; and trees and shrubs had to Land tour on our second day. This guided to reclaim his own ruinedC landscape and C IE MCMLXVIII I IE MCMLXVIII I TY ER TY ER be planted where trees had been cut down. bus tour showed through photos and stops recreate something OF ratherA M Edenic.” OF A M Seventy-five acres of gardens were created around the house, including an Italian gar- RR RR ITE AN ITE AN MEDIT MEDIT AS ERR E AS ERR E den with two ponds, formal flower beds, a D ET A D ET A I N I N E C E A E C E A O A O A S N S N ERR ERR M M IT AN IT AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN IE AN E C E A E C E A O A O A conservatory, and a pergola covered with S N S N M M

E E A R A R vines for shade. A large piazza to the left N M N M R E R E A A M U M U M N M M N M O S T R O S T R O S T R U O S T R U S S S S O O O O C A C A of the mansion with classical statues at the A A MCMLXVIII C MCMLXVIII C I I I I C C ET R ET R MCMLXVIII C MCMLXVIII C Y E Y E IE I IE I OF A M OF A M TY ER TY ER corners provides a breath-taking view of OF A M OF A M the Blue Ridge Mountains in the distance.

RR RR ITE AN ITE AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E Our visit to the mansion took several IE AN IE AN A E C E A E C E O A O A S N S N M M

E E A R A R M N M M N M O S T R U O S T R U Society to Celebrate 50 YearsS S O O hours, progressing from room to room A A C C C I MCMLXVIII I I MCMLXVIII IC ET R ET R Y E Y E with an excellent audio guide. The design OF A M OF A M of the house was inspired mainly by the on September 9 style of French chateaux. To the right of The Mediterranean Society will be celebrating its fiftieth year on Sunday after- the entrance is the sunken winter garden

noon, September 9. The celebration will be held at the University of Richmond’sERRA ER R IT N IT AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN A IE AN E C E E C E A O A O A S N S M M N

E E A R A R M N M M N M O S T R U O S T R U

S S O O C A C A MCMLXVIII C MCMLXVIII IE I IE IC T ER T ER where the only Chihuly sculpture dis- Jepson Alumni Center and catered by the University. The Board of Directors Y OFwill AM Y OF AM played indoors can be found. The Ban- send invitations later this summer to all current members of the Society and to quet Hall, the largest room in the house, others who have contributed to or been associated with the work of the Society in is quite impressive, with triple fireplaces the past. The Board is in the process of selecting memories and photographs of the at one end and a display of rare Flem- past fifty years to share at the celebration. ish tapestries. Walking onto the loggia

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RR RR ITE AN ITE AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN IE AN E C E A E C E A O A O A S N S N ERR ERR M M IT AN IT AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN IE AN E C E A E C E A O A O A S N S N M M

R E R E A A E E N M N M A R A R M U M U M N M M N M O S T R O S T R O S T R U O S T R U S S S S O O O O C A C A A A I MCMLXVIII IC I MCMLXVIII IC C C ET R ET R MCMLXVIII C MCMLXVIII C Y E Y E IE I IE I OF A M OF A M TY ER TY ER OF A M OF A M

RR RR ITE AN ITE AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN IE AN E C E A E C E A O A O A S N S N The Mediterranean Society of America M M

E E A R A R M N M M N M O S T R U O S T R U S S O O C A C A C C P.O. Box 14793 IE MCMLXVIII I IE MCMLXVIII I TY ER TY ER OF A M OF A M Richmond, Virginia 23221

“Friends Traveling Together”

RR RR ITE AN ITE AN S MEDITE S MEDITE D TA RR E D TA RR E IE AN A IE AN E C E E C E A O A O A S N S M M N

A R E A R E Be sure to visit the Society’s Web Site: N M N M M M O S T R U O S T R U

S S O O C A C A MCMLXVIII C MCMLXVIII IE I IE IC T ER T ER www.mediterranean-society.org Y OF AM Y OF AM

Contributing Members 2017–2018 Susan Ancarrow Ann and Alan Loxterman Victoria A. Ashby Mary Bryan Perkins Janis C. & Frederick J. Augustine Patsy Pettus Betsy Ault Robin Price Shirley A. Bartley Julia and Jack Proctor Eugenia H. Borum Jane Ruffa John B. Canada Tony Ruffa — deceased Mary Agnes Chun Nancy S. Saylor Edward J. Cook Julia & Barry Scott Linwood W. Davis Anna Mae Shishido Elisabeth Flynn-Chapman Carolyn H. Spencer Richard M. Frazer, Jr. Virginia H. Spratley Elizabeth & W. Douglas Gottwald, Jr. Harold & Delia Stark John Hubbard Harris Anne D. Sterling Margaret D. Hicks William G. Stoops Ellen D. Houck Elaine M. Themo Julian Ward Jones, Jr. C. Wayne Tucker Marietta B. Jones Ronald and Anne Waller

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