WORKSHOP ON ELECTRON-ELECTRON INTERACTIONS IN TOPOLOGICAL MATERIALS

SINGAPORE JUNE 28-30TH Workshop Venue: Performance Hall, Yale-NUS College, 16 College Avenue West, 138527 Welcome

It is my great pleasure to welcome all of you America, and at varying career stages from to Singapore. The seeds for this workshop chaired professors and a Nobel Prize win- were actually planted 5 years ago when my ner to postdocs and graduate students. By program officer at the National Research now the areas of topological materials and Foundation suggested the idea of a workshop strongly correlated materials are each some- as a forum to showcase the exciting research what well established. However, the inter- happening in Singapore, and to exchange section of these two fields -- the question of ideas about topological matter with experts how electron-electron interactions influence around the world. Back in 2012, who would topological materials is still somewhat in its have guessed that topology would have been infancy. What might distinguish our con- le thème à la mode this Summer. With the ference is that by bringing together experts Nobel Prize in physics last year awarded for on both topological materials and interac- the theory of topological phases, the past tion physics, we might define together the few weeks have been a whirlwind of con- key questions and frameworks to explore ferences. Earlier this month, the Singapore this confluence. Institute of Advanced Studies sponsored a conference that brought two of these No- Of course this workshop would not have bel Prize winners, and the pre-conference been possible without the generous support school at Nanyang Technological Univer- of the Singapore National Research Foun- sity the week before was a boot camp for dation, the Center for Advanced 2D Materi- our students and postdocs. And just this als and Yale-NUS College. But I also thank past week saw the International Conference the many people working behind the scenes on Materials for Advanced Technologies in to make this possible. In particular, thanks Singapore, the Gordon Research Confer- to the Yale-NUS team (Aniza, Grace, Suha- ence on topological and correlated matter na and Nabila), the CA2DM team (Shirley, in Hong Kong, and the strongly interacting Bernice, Wei Fen, Miguel, and Ruifang) and conformal theory workshop in Beijing. members of my research group. I also ex- press my gratitude to my partners-in-crime Our workshop today shares speakers with all on the organizing committee: Antonio Cas- of these wonderful events. We have a won- tro Neto, Fakher Assaad, Igor Herbut and derful line up of speakers: 9 speakers each Justin Song. from Europe and Asia, and 6 from North Shaffique Adam Yale-NUS College NUS Department of Physics Center for Advanced 2D Materials Singapore, June 28, 2017 CONFRENCE PROGRAM WED THU JUNE JUNE

8:00-9:00 Breakfast 8:00-9:00 Breakfast

MARYLAND TOPOLOGICAL THEORIES ARE ESSENTIALLY 28 9:00-9:45 Kostya Novoselov EVIDENCE OF ELECTRON-ELECTRON 29 9:00-9:45 Sankar Das Sarma NON-INTERACTING. WHAT THEN ARE THE MANCHESTER INTERACTIONS IN GRAPHENE ROLE OF INTERACTIONS?

9:45-10:30 Igor Herbut VANCOUVER NON-FERMI LIQUIDS, FIXED POINT 9:45-10:30 Cristiane de Morais Smith TBD COLLISIONS, AND TENSORIAL ORDER IN GREY UTRECHT TIN AND IN SOME POPULAR FIELD THEORIES 10:30-11:15 Coffee Break 10:30-11:15 Coffee Break 11:15-11:35 Natália Menezes UTRECHT CONFORMAL QED IN TWO-DIMENSIONAL 11:15-11:35 Derek Ho SINGAPORE THEORY OF COULOMB DRAG IN SPATIALLY TOPOLOGICAL INSULATORS INHOMOGENEOUS MATERIALS Ho Kin Tang SINGAPORE THE ROLE OF ELECTRON-ELECTRON DIRAC AND WEYL SUPERCONDUCTORS IN 11:35-11:55 11:35-11:55 Shengyuan Yang SINGAPORE INTERACTIONS IN TWO DIMENSIONAL THREE DIMENSIONS DIRAC FERMIONS

12:00-2:00 Lunch 12:00-2:00 Lunch DECONFINED PHASES AND PHASE 2:00-2:45 Fakher Assaad WURZBURG TRANSITIONS OF DIRAC FERMIONS 2:00-2:45 Giovani Vignale MISSOURI BERRY CURVATURE AND EDGE PLASMONS 2:45-3:30 Lucas Wagner URBANA PREDICTIVE CALCULATIONS FOR 2:45-3:30 Euyheon Hwang SEOUL QUASIPARTICLE INTERFERENCE AND FOURIER CORRELATED MATERIALS TRANSFORM SCANNING TUNNELING SPEC- TROSCOPY IN TYPE II WEYL SEMIMETAL WTE2 3:30-4:00 Coffee Break

3:30-4:00 Coffee Break 4:00-4:45 Hong Yao BEIJING FERMION-INDUCED QUANTUM CRITICAL POINTS 4:00-4:45 Vladimir Juricic STOCKHOLM DISORDERED WEYL SEMIMETALS: GLOBAL PHASE DIAGRAM, THE FATE OF FERMI ARCS 4:45-5:30 Erez Berg CHICAGO DETECTABLE SIGNATURES OF SPIN LIQUIDS AND THE BULK-BOUNDARY CORRESPONDENCE 7:00-10:00 CONFERENCE DINNER

4:45-5:30 Jeil Jung SEOUL NON-LOCAL EXCHANGE DRIVEN BRO- KEN SYMMETRY PHASES IN MULTILAYER GRAPHENE FRI JUNE

8:00-9:00 Breakfast Session chairs 30 9:00-9:45 Subir Sachdev HARVARD QUANTUM MATTER WITHOUT Wed 28th June Thu 29th June Fri 30th June QUASIPARTICLES

9:00-10:30 Cristiane de Morais Yuan Ping Feng Giovanni Vignale 9:45-10:30 Antonio H. Castro Neto 2D MATERIALS: AN UPDATE SINGAPORE Smith

10:30-11:15 Coffee Break 11:15-11.55 Jeil Jung Justin Song Marco Polini (TBC) 11:15-11:35 EXCITONIC GAP GENERATION IN THIN-FILM Giandomenico Palumbo 2:00-3:30 LC Kwek Pinaki Sengupta Igor Herbut UTRECHT TOPOLOGICAL INSULATORS

4:00-5:30 Dario Poletti F Assaad Yidong Chong A MODEL OF CHIRAL SPIN LIQUIDS WITH 11:35-11:55 ZURICH Jyong-Hao Chen ABELIAN AND NON-ABELIAN TOPOLOGICAL PHASES

12:00-2:00 Lunch

ARTIFICIAL GRAPHENE IN GALLIUM ARSENIDE 2:00-2:45 GENOA Vittorio Pellegrini QUANTUM WELLS

2:45-3:30 Masaki Oshikawa TOKYO TBD Speaker Profile

from Europe 3:30-4:00 Coffee Break 9

4:00-4:45 Marco Polini GENOA FERMI ARC PLASMONS IN WEYL SEMIMETALS 6 from America

4:45-5:30 Justin Song SINGAPORE BLOCH BAND GEOMETRY AND NEW 5 from Singapore COLLECTIVE MODES 4 from Asia (excluding Singapore) MEALS MAPS AND LUNCH SPOTS UTOWN, HOLLAND V, CLUNY COURT T COLLEGE AVE ES EA ST W

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L O C Nearby as Lunch Options NUS UTown Area:

Flavours of Utown Waa Cow! Stephen Riady Center Waa Cow! is a relatively new establishment. Opening Hours: Daily 7.30 am-10:30pm With a clean and minimalist interior, it cer- YALE NUS COLLEGE tainly stands out from the other food places at UNIVERSITY Koufu Food Court NUS. Their popular mains include Signature SCHOLARS Town Plaza PROGRAMME Wagyu Beef Rice Bowl ($17.90) and Aburi Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 7.00 am-10:00pm Bara Chirashi Bowl ($16.90). Other sides such Sat-Sun 10.00 am-10:00pm as Sweet Garlic Soy Glazed Chicken Wings ($8.90) and Shrimp Karaage With Mentaiko SCHOOL OF CONTINUING AND The Royals Bistro Mayo ($6.90) are also worth a try. LIFELONG EDUCATION The café offers a variety of western food such Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 11:30am to as Beef Shepherd’s Pie ($8.50) and Braised 3pm Tel: 8168 8777 Lamb Shank ($16.90). They’ve also got pretty U-TOWN STARBUCKS RESIDENCES looking cakes like rainbow cake and red velvet Sapore Italiano

CREA cake, but the selection changes weekly and are TE W Sapore Italiano offers a cozy and quiet envi- AY subjected to availability. ronment for a nice meal with friends or to en- Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 11am -8:30pm gage in people watching. Also, it could be the CREATE Tel: 9777 1353 STEPHEN RIADY CENTRE only place that serves alcohol in the whole of Spice Table by Pines NUS, so now you know where to go when you AY TE W need booze. The prices here are actually quite CREA Serving comfort food at food court prices in reasonable, with pastas and pizzas priced below CREATE a casual environment, Spice Table is a halal es- CR EATE W $20. Tortellini al Nero di Seppia ($16.90+) and AY tablishment located right behind the UTown Risotto Al Funghi Porcini ($14.90+) are some stop. Offering Asian fusion food such as of the better dishes there. Gelato is also avail- Indonesian-style Sambal Fried Rice ($5), Jap- able and you can enjoy them at UTown green anese Beef Teriyaki Set ($8.50) and Chicken or the breezy alfresco seating area. Baked Rice ($6.50). Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 11am to Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 10:30am-10pm

Tel: 6339 9912 9:45pm Tel: 6684 5137

Nearby Restaurants as Lunch Options Holland Village El Patio long baos. Filled with hearty, rich broth and Take a walk down Lorong Mambong, and tender pork, Crystal Jade is the standard that you’ll quite literally run the gamut of culinary xiao long baos are judged by. styles. El Patio is a rustic, homely eatery that Address: 29 Lorong Liput, Singapore HOLLAND ROAD

H OL LA offers fuss free and reasonably priced Mexican 277740. Tel: 6464 9303. ND RO AD

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OR MAM food. If you’re seated outdoors and the heat gets a little too much for you, cool off with 363 Laksa BONG a coronas or a couple of margaritas. El Patio Like prata at , there are throngs of also wins points for the free-flow nachos that laksa specialists claiming to be the original Ka- go with drinks. tong Laksa. We don’t know that for sure, but Address: 34 Lorong Mambong, Singapore 363 Katong Laksa checks all the boxes for us 277691. Tel: 6468 1520. with their chewy rice noodles (small enough to eat with just a spoon of course), rich, spicy

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RNA ROAD Nakhon Kitchen broth, and a generous portion of prawns. It’s WA JALAN MERAH SAGA also one of the cheapest places to grab lunch

HOLLAND Tuck into a hearty plate of phad thai at this in the area. LOR LIPUT popular Thai eatery. Originally a hole in the Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 10:30am-10pm wall joint in Kovan, Nakhon has gone on Tel: 6339 9912 to open its fourth branch in Holland Village. Other standout dishes include Thai green cur- Gaia Korean Grill + Bar ry and the ever-popular pandan leaf chicken. Hansang’s not your only choice for Korean

TAMAN WA Best part? It won’t burn a hole in your wallet. style grills at this food paradise, Gaia Korean RNA Address: 27A Lorong Liput Holland Vil- Grill + Bar will satisfy any cravings you have

E lage, Singapore 277738. Tel: 6469 6862. for Korean BBQ with their delicious marinat-

AV ed meats – but it’s not all about the BBQ here.

HOLLAND Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Gaia puts just as much effort into their other Bao Korean dishes like cold buckwheat noodles, Crystal Jade’s a household name, and the con- seafood pancakes and their banchan appetisers. sistent hordes of hungry patrons stand testa- Address: 17E Lorong Liput, Singapore ment to the franchise’s crowd-pleasing xiao 277731. Tel: 6339 3313. Sanpoutei Ramen Kinara Fans of ramen swear by Sanpoutei’s shoyu ra- Don’t for a second think Indian food isn’t rep- men ($14), and its rich umami-packed vege- resented in this food paradise. Kinara’s your table, chicken and pork bone broth. But if the go-to for tasty North Indian nosh like kebabs, spice seeker in you wants sizzling-not-sooth- tandoori, naans and keema. Kinara also offers ing, opt instead for the rich tori x spicy-miso quite a wide selection of wines that’ll pair de- ramen. lightfully with your meal. Address: #01-01, 253 Holland Ave. Address: 24 Lorong Mambong, Singapore Tel:. 6463 7277 277683. Tel: 6467 4101.

Pho Hoa There’s nothing like a steaming hot bowl of pho to get rid off last night’s pounding hang- over, and Pho Hoa does up a bowl like no other. Piled high with tender beef slices atop chewy rice noodles in a rich, flavoursome broth, this American pho chain gets our pick for the best Vietnamese cuisine in Holland Village. Address: 18 Lorong Mambong, Singapore 277678. Tel: 6467 3662 ISLAND ATTRACTIONS Singapore’s Attractions

Chinatown Little India The city has many old buildings and well-presented museum displays which When the first Chinese If you visit Little India on Kampong Glam is the bring history to life. Chinese and Hindu temples as well as Muslim mosques junk landed in Singapore a Sunday, be prepared for traditional heart of Singa- welcome curious observers to discover their culture. Singapore’s natural sometime around 1821, the a mob scene the likes of porean Muslim life. Since parks do make the outdoors easily accessible too. The benefit of travelling in sailors aboard rushed to the Calcutta! Sunday is the only early colonial days, the area Singapore would be that most attractions are situated within the heart of the shore and prayed to Ma Cho day off for Singapore’s many has attracted Muslims from city and those that lie outside the urban centre can also be easily reached. Po, the Goddess of Heavenly foreign Indian and Bangla- diverse ethnic backgrounds, Sages, for bringing them deshi workers, so fusing them into one com- Singapore has a multitude of planned attractions for both visitors and locals safety to their destination. Road gets pretty lively. The munity by their common alike. Not only does the city host two mega casino complexes, Marina Bay The Chinese and other location of Hindu temples is faith and lifestyle. The name Sands and World , it also houses Universal Studios Singa- merchants set up warehouses neither by accident nor by Kampong Glam comes from pore, the first theme park of its kind in Southeast Asia. along the western bank of Sir Raffles’ Town Plan. By the Malay word kampong, the , and tradition, it must always be meaning “village” and business offices, residences, built near a source of fresh “glam”, which is a particular clan associations and coolie water so that every morning, kind of tree that, at one houses filled the area behind all the statues can be bathed time, grew abundantly in Boat Quay. In 1822 when before prayer. The water the area. The mosques in Raffles developed his Town runs off a spout somewhere Singapore are a wonderful Plan, he reserved this area outside the main hall, from blend of Muslim influences for the Chinese to live in. which devotees take the wa- from around the world. The As you tour Chinatown, ter and touch their heads. grand Sultan Mosque has you may be surprised to see the familiar onion dome a Hindu temple and even a and Moorish styling of couple of Muslim mosques. Arabic Muslim influence. Although the area was pre- The smaller but fascinating dominantly Chinese, many Hajjah Fatimah Mosque is Hindus and Muslims settled a blend of cultures, from here as well. Muslim to Chinese, to even Christian – a testimony to Islam’s tolerance of other cultural symbols. Singapore Botanic Bird Park Singapore Zoo River Night Safari Garden Home to 5,000 feathery Singapore’s world famous Enter Asia’s first and only The Night Safari located The park offers an exciting Situated just five minutes friends across 400 bird open concept zoo is home river themed wildlife park next to Singapore Zoo is the diversity of sporting, dining away from the bustling species, Jurong Bird Park to 216 different species of and meet over 5,000 animals, first nocturnal Safari park in and recreational activities ca- , Singapore Singapore houses one of the animals. Animals are present- including 42 endangered the world. Get onto a tram tering to various segments of Botanic Gardens is a lush largest collections of birds in ed in near natural environ- species. The attractions and watch over 1,000 ani- the public. Volleyball courts, sanctuary in the heart of the the world (admission: adult mental settings separated include giant pandas Kai Kai mals of 115 species go about chalets, restaurants city. The garden has been S$25, children S$16 and from visitors by moats with and Jia Jia at the lush Giant their business under lights and a hawker centre can all developed along a three-core senior S$10; daily 8:30 am to concealed barriers. Dense Panda Forest – the largest designed to illuminate them be found in this park. Come concept. The three cores 6:00 pm). You must visit key greenery and trails panda exhibit in Southeast without causing a change in to the park on weekends and are (Heritage core attractions which include the to the woods offer variety Asia; and be amazed by the night behaviour. The Night enjoy having picnics with retaining old favourites and Bird Discovery Centre, Af- and intimacy to visitors. world’s largest freshwater Safari has been, the Winner your families or friends; sit charms of the historic Gar- rican Waterfall Aviary, Lory Also, the Singapore Zoo is aquarium exhibit at the of the Best Visitor Attraction back and let the inviting dens), Central (Tourist belt Loft Aviary, Southeast Asian home to one of the largest Amazon Flooded Forest. Experience by the Singapore waves and fresh perennial sea of the Garden) and Bukit Aviary and award winning collection of orangutans in Board 11 times. breeze provide you with an Timah (the educational and African Wetlands. the world and has the first invigorating relief to the sti- discovery zone). Each core free ranging exhibition. fling city heat and humidity. presents an exciting array of In the evenings, bring your attractions. Take your time to families and friends down stroll around the gardens and for a barbecue or indulge in enjoy the wonderful sights, sumptuous cuisines at the sound and wonders the East Coast Seafood Centre. luscious greenery offers. Sentosa Island boats are available for hire Adventure Park, a ride on than 800 species of marine Today, Sentosa has become 8672 or visit www.sentosa. after you cross the causeway at nominal charges. Siloso, over 450 metres long and animals, the aquarium is a weekend getaway spot and com.sg. and the driver can drop you Singapore’s answer to Disne- Singapore’s hippest beach at 72 metres above sea level home to majestic manta rays, anywhere you would like to yland. It is also home to one The most entertaining way also has the hottest volleyball zip cable; Wave House Sen- enormous goliath grouper, of Singapore’s two massive to get to Sentosa is to take go within the island. Oth- action along with the tosa, with artificial waves for napoleon wrasse and other ‘integrated resorts’ – Resorts the cable . From the erwise, you can walk across coolest bars and restaurants body-boarding and surfing; gentle giants of the sea; and World Sentosa. Cable Car Towers, they make the boardwalk on foot from the trip daily from 8:45 am for fun-loving people, with Sentosa 4D AdventureLand, Adventure Cove Waterpark the causeway entrance at If you are spending the to 10:00 pm (Last Boarding parties, music, lively bars and an immersive 4-D movie; (pictured), is an aquatic day, there are restaurants in 9:45 pm). The cable VivoCity shopping mall. restaurants celebrating the and the Tiger Sky Tower, adventure park with thrilling abundance and a couple of extend up on beach lifestyle long into the Singapore’s tallest observa- waterslides such as Southeast affordable food courts. For the Singapore side. If you The most notable attractions a unique dining option, choose to take a cable car up night. tory tower which rises 131 Asia’s first hydro-magnetic that you get free with your consider Sky Dining abroad to the top, you can take it metres above sea level with coaster. the Jewel Cable Car, where Sentosa admission are the back down again. Palawan Beach is recom- panoramic views across you can spend a couple Animal and Bird Encounters, hours eating a three-or-four- mended for families as it has Sentosa and Singapore’s There are smaller islands The light- a range of display featuring course meal. It is especially a longer stretch of beach, , as well as surrounding Singapore, some rail train operates between reptiles, macaques, parrots, popular on Valentine’s a fountain playground, a neighbouring Malaysia and of which are open for full or Day or for birthdays and VivoCity shopping mall at and birds of prey that runs local hawker centre that even Indonesia. half-day trips. The rides wedding proposals. For more the Harbourfront MRT sta- from 2:00 pm to 5:30 pm at information, visit www. are a favourite with adults are cool and breezy, and they tion and Sentosa, with stops the amphitheatre at Palawan mountfaber.com.sg. and children alike. Tanjong The latest attractions provide interesting close-up at the beach, major Beach, the Nature Walk Beach is a favourite for those include Universal Studio views of some of the larger For overnights, the Shan- attractions and Resorts World through a secondary rainfor- who treasure its tranquillity Singapore, featuring 24 ships docked in the harbour. gri-La’s Rasa Sentosa Sentosa. est and the beaches. and Spa, the Sentosa Resort and solitude; is the quietest movie-themed rides and The islands themselves are Board the train to Sentosa at & Spa and the Hard Rock and most remote of the attractions, 18 of which are small and are seen as an VivoCity, third level, where Sentosa has three beaches. Singapore at Resorts three beaches. unique to Singapore. Thrill escape from the daily grind World Sentosa are popular you can purchase tickets. The At Siloso Beach (pictured), seekers and families will – offering a peaceful respite options. For all general train operates daily from 7:00 deck chairs, beach umbrellas Sentosa inquiries, you can Most attractions on Sentosa be the first to experience for families. am until midnight. and a variety of water sports contact the Guest Service charge separate entrance fees. the new rides and shows African Wetlands. equipment like pedal boats, Officers, available from They include the Skyline based on blockbuster hits; Monday to Sunday (9:00 am A taxi can also take you aqua bikes, fun bugs, canoes, Luge Sentosa; MegaZip S.E.A. Aquarium, with more to 6:00 pm); Tel. +65 6736- there; pay the entrance fee surfboards and banana Kusu & St. John’s Islands are located to the south of sightseeing. Singapore proper, about a fifteen to twenty minutes Located off the northeast tip ferry ride to Kusu (pictured); of Singapore, Pulau Ubin twenty-five to thirty minutes (pictured below) remains to St. John’s. the only place in Singapore where you can find life as Its name meaning “Tortoise it used to be before urban Island” in Chinese, many development. It is truly a popular legends exist about great day for those who how Kusu Island came to be. like to explore nature and Kusu Island was original- rural scenery. The best way ly two small islands and a to explore Pulau Ubin is to reef, but in 1975, reclaimed hire a bike and ride around land turned it into a small the island. getaway island. There are two places of worship: a For a laidback break from Chinese temple and a Malay the hustle and bustle of the shrine. The Chinese temple city, visit the Ubin Celestial becomes a zoo during “Kusu Beach , which Season” in October, when offers plenty of outdoor ac- thousands of Chinese de- tivities and water sports. One votes flock here to pray for big attraction on the island health, prosperity and luck. is the intertidal flat at Chek Jawa, which has extremely Historically speaking, St. rare ecosystems, animals and John’s Island is an unlikely plants. place for a day trip. Today, you will find a mosque, holiday camps, three lagoons, bungalows, a cafeteria, a huge playing field and bas- ketball. It is much larger than Kusu Island, but not large enough to fill a whole day of USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency Numbers & Useful Links

The following links and numbers www.streetdirectory.com may be useful should you need guid- Most useful for addresses and phone numbers ance around the island or emergency of your intended locations, and even provides help. several route options to your destination. http://www.lta.gov.sg/content/ ltaweb/en/public-transport/mrt- Emergency Hotlines and-lrt-trains/train-system- map. • Police – 999 html • Ambulance – 995 A complete listing of train services and use it • Fire Brigade – 995 to navigate your way around Singapore. • For real-time flight information over www.sbstransit.com.sg the phone – 1800-542-4422 Access to Intelligent Route Information System (IRIS) that provides solutions by bus based on cheapest fare, Credit Cards shortest walking distance or shortest travelling • American Express – 1800-299-1997 time. • Diners Card – +65 6416-0800 http://www.lta.gov.sg/content/ • MasterCard – 800-110-0113 ltaweb/en/public-/taxis/ • Visa – 800-448-1250 getting-a-taxi.html Has a list of taxi companies you can book with in Singapore. http://www.mfa.gov.sg/content/ mfa/missions/foreign_mission/mis- sion_locator.html Has an extensive list of all the embassies in Singapore. http://trust.yoursingapore.com Has a comprehensive list of licensed trav- el agents in Singapore. http://guides-online.yoursinga- pore.com A useful list of tour guides in Singapore searchable by languages spoken and area of expertise. http://www.onemap.sg Find where you want to go and how to get there. https://app.stb.gov.sg/asp/int/int. asp Singapore Tourism Board Offices Worldwide. https://www.moh.gov.sg/content/ moh_web/home/medical-directo- ry.html A directory of medical services available in Singapore.

Information in this booklet adapted from: http://www.nus.edu.sg/oca/Retail-And-Dining/Food-and-Beverages.html http://eatbook.sg/nus-food/ http://thehoneycombers.com/singapore/guide-to-holland-village-singapore-the-coolest- restaurants-bars-and-shops-in-this-lively-neighbourhood/