The

A NewsletterTraveller of the Bartram Trail Conference Spring, 2006 Augusta Biennial Conference

Brad Sanders Replica of Ancient Pot Brings Support for Scholarships he elevator doors on the penthouse floor of Washington Hall opened toT reveal John Hall bearing in his arms a large box. When supper was over, Jacob Lowery toted the box through the doors and to his car. And the Fothergill Schol- arship fund had increased significantly. After dinner, John announced a special event. Reaching into the box, he drew out The Saturday evening cruise on the Augusta under a fine October sky. a reddish-brown pottery vessel which he described as a reproduction of a Missis- his edition of The Traveller features glided quietly along the sippian pot, one-third its original size, the area of Augusta, , site of in a replica Petersburg boat, enjoying the carefully crafted by Patsy Hanvey of Gas- theT Bartram Trail Conference’s biennial natural beauty along the canal that once den, Alabama. Patsy is a serious student meeting (October 21–23, 2005). powered the city’s textile industry. of history and a master potter of authentic Forty two persons from six states On Sunday, the conferees drove some Creek pottery reproductions. The origi- gathered for the meeting, hosted by Ed thirty miles west to the place Bartram nal pot came from the excavation of a and Mary Ann Cashin, BTC leaders and knew as Wrightsborough. Gathering in mound on the , ten miles members of the faculty of Augusta State the old Methodist Church, now main- University. After a Friday evening recep- tained by the Historic Wrightsboro tion in the university’s Maxwell Alumni Foundation, they heard a lecture by his-

House, a historic building on the edge of torian Robert Davis on Wrightsborough’s Kathryn Braund the campus, the group dined in the pent- place in the Revolutionary period, then house of Washington Hall and saw Brad walked through the abandoned land of Sanders’ photographic description of “Au- the settlement that Bartram visited twice gusta Scenes Bartram Might Have Seen.” and called a “pleasant town.” Saturday featured a morning walk Members of Foundation served din- through the Phinizy Swamp, lunch and ner on the grounds of the church. After Isaac Johnson’s discussion of Black histo- a brief business meeting, several carloads ry in the historic Springfield Church, and drove through the fields of Wrightsbor- a video presentation in the old Enterprise ough for a walk to Joseph Mattock’s eigh- Mill. In the cool of the evening, the group teenth century dam. Jacob Lowery, Rosa Hall and the revered Mis- sissippian pot.

 below Augusta. The vessel is published in The Archaeology of William Henry Holmes edited by David Meltzer and Robert C. Bartram’s Impressions Dunwell (Smithsonian Institution Press). Meltzer and Dunwell describe the deco- rative pattern on the exterior of the cook- of Augusta ing pot as a “…common figure…” with Edward J. Cashin late treaty. The long-established Indian “…a kind of compound filfot cross…or hat Bartram wrote about Augusta merchants seemed to be losing control. Thor’s hammer…a grouping of lines hav- and what he thought about Au- A reader might wonder why Bartram ing a cross with bent arms as a base or gustaW are not necessarily the same. He had did not return to Augusta in July 1775 center. The border spaces are filled in with visited the town in 1765 with his father after his excursion through Cherokee lines parallel with the curved arms of the and his impressions of the place might country. He had to outfit himself for the central figure.” have been tinctured with nostalgia. He long journey to Mobile, and he had “a few “Patsy has donated this vessel to be seemed delighted with everything on his weeks” to do so. Augusta was the logi- auctioned for the Fothergill Fund,” said visit in 1773. He described the countryside cal place for such outfitting. Instead he John. as “everywhere fertile and delightful.” The lingered at Fort James in the wilderness. Kathryn Braund opened the bidding Savannah River was already “famous” as He must have thought that the Revolu- at $50. From around the room came bids. it forced its way through rocky hills “as if tionary movement was reaching out to “Seventy-five.” “One hundred.” “One- impatient to repose on the extensive plain engulf him. The leader of his caravan was fifty.” Two bidders remained, calling vig- below.” The month was May, the atmo- detained on suspicion of disloyalty to the orously: “Two hundred. . . Scholarships!” sphere breathed fragrance, the meadows patriot cause. Parties calling themselves Jacob Lowery bid, goading the crowd and were gay and green, and the hills “arbus- Sons of Liberty in Savannah and Augusta reminding them of the auction’s purpose tive.” What else might he have noticed? made life miserable for anyone who failed “Two-fifty,” John Hall responded. He must have observed that Augusta was to swear an oath to uphold the measures “Three hundred,” shouted Jacob. The still an Indian town. In fact, hundreds of of the Continental Congress. Bartram room was silent. Creek and Cherokee Indians were in town hated to swear oaths. “Going once,” said Kathryn. “Going for a treaty and Bartram wrote about that. He did return to the little town in late twice.” More silence. “Gone, to Jacob There was still a resident band of Chicka- December 1775. There is no more talk Lowery for $300!” saw Indians across from Augusta on the about gay lawns and arbustive hills. He As the members applauded, John set Carolina side of the river. The leading wrote only that he stayed a few days with the pot on the table in front of Jacob. citizens were Indian merchants. People his friend Dr. Wells outside the town. roundabouts seemed satisfied with the The gloom of winter had settled on the royal government, particularly because place. The contrast from his first visit was The Bartram Trail the treaty opened over a million acres of striking. Then, hundreds of Indians were new lands for settlement. guests of the city. Now, people huddled on Television Readers of Travels would think that in stockaded houses in fear of British- nothing had changed during the two years inspired raids from those same Indians. n February 14, 2003 Georgia prior to his second visit to the town. “The Bartram proceeded to Savannah, only to Public Television first aired site of Augusta is perhaps the most de- find that town under threat of an attack anO episode of Georgia Outdoors lightful and eligible of any in Georgia for by a British fleet. The Revolution claimed that featured the Bartram Trail and a city,” he wrote. After two paragraphs of him, like it or not, and he marched off to William Bartram’s explorations in praise, he concluded, “I do not hesitate to skirmish with the enemy on the Florida Georgia. The program is replayed pronounce as my opinion, will very soon borderlands. several times each year, but can now become the metropolis of Georgia.” In It is just as well that Bartram preferred be viewed on-line anytime. Type this fact, much had changed. An Indian war, rhapsody to reality, and we have a time- URL in your browser to go directly provoked in part by the 1773 cession, ter- less Augusta with gay lawns and arbustive to the GPTV Bartram Trail program rorized the Georgia backcountry during hills. In fact the City of Augusta prefers web page. most of 1774, obliging Bartram to limit it that way and has carved Bartram’s de- http://www.gpb.org/public/tv/ his excursions to Florida. A peace treaty in scription of the town on its Riverwalk. georgiaoutdoors/shows.jsp?episid= October 1774 allowed him to continue his (Edward Cashin is Professor of Histo- 524&catid=1002 interrupted tour of the interior. He would ry Emeritus at August State University. A have noticed that Augusta was no longer native of Augusta, Dr. Cashin is author of You must have Windows Media an Indian town. Many now regarded the numerous books on the history of Geor- Player installed to view the program Indians as enemies and obstacles to their gia and of William Bartram and the Amer- on your computer. hopes for additional land. They faulted ican Revolution on the Southern Frontier. the royal government for not demanding Columbia, South Carolina: University of more land as a condition of peace in the South Carolina Press, 2000.)

 Bartram Trail conference members tromp around Old Wrightsborough as the finale to the 2006 Wrightsborough conference. Jim Kautz

illiam Bartram had cut short his exploration around the mouth of Chuck Spornick theW Altamaha in the middle of May 1773. He rode to Augusta to observe a crucial conference of Creeks, Cherokees and the Colonial government. It was an opportu- nity for the explorer to meet leaders of the nations whose lands he planned to wan- der and study. When he arrived in Augusta and learned that the Indian delegations had delayed, he went some thirty-five miles farther west to Wrightsborough, a town established in 1768 on the edge of Euro- pean settlement. A few days after the con- ference, he returned to Wrightsborough, this time in the company of a party of military officers, land surveyors, Indians and entrepreneurs surveying the “New Purchase”—land the Crown had acquired from the Creeks and Cherokees. Bartram says Wrightsborough was a “pleasant town,” “founded by Jos. Mat- tock, Esq; of the sect called Quakers; this public spirited man having obtained, for himself and his followers, a district, com- prehending upwards of forty thousand acres of land” (Travels, pp. 35-37). Gov- ernor Wright had deeded them an area of magnificent forests, rich soil, and well- drained hillsides on the edge of the “” of Georgia. Streams “murmering in the hollow rocks… Groves, presenting Cherokees; it was Creek land. That was the have long since yielded to axes and saws, to view their prolific Boosom, beautifully reason for the conference in Augusta and leaving pockets of woodlands. Scarcely a decorated with the sorounding flowery for the survey. The Creeks, the Cherokees, trace of the town remains. Scars of old hill & verdant lawns; all gay & Fragrant and His Majesty’s government needed to road beds, cut deep by stagecoaches and defuses a lovely & fruitfull Scenery all work out a land dispute. When the con- wagons, lead out from the paved road. around.” The settlers, he reported to Dr. ference concluded with a plan for mark- Fish Trap Road, a twenty-five foot-wide John Fothergill, “Plant Wheat, Barley, ing the new boundary, a party of nearly crease worn into the earth marks a main Flax, Hemp, Oates, corn, Cotton, Indigo, one hundred surveyors, soldiers, wealthy street of the abandoned town. On a hill Breed Cattle, Sheep, and Make Very good colonists, Indian chiefs and braves, came above Middle Creek a sturdy stone foun- Butter & Cheese.” together at Wrightsborough and headed dation may be a remnant of the fort built Ed Cashin has pointed out that Bar- northwest, marking the boundary of the by Colonel Barnard in 1774 to protect the tram’s trip to the town with the land sur- new cession of land. frontier from Creek Indians restless over veyors was probably the most important By 1799 most of the Quakers had incursions into their lands. thing that ever happened in Wrightsbor- moved to eastern Tennessee, Ohio, and The Historic Wrightsboro Foundation ough. The Cherokees to the north had beyond. The Georgia legislature abolished maintains the building that once housed a gotten themselves into debt to the Brit- the Quaker control of the township, and Methodist Church and has placed inter- ish. To pay off their tab they had agreed to deeded it to a new set of trustees. The pretive markers around the surrounding give up land to the settlers. The problem town was renamed Wrightsboro. historic district. Other than the church, was: some of the land didn’t belong to the The massive trees Bartram reported continued on page 10

 matically to approximately 0.016 ft./ft. Southeastern Natural Sciences Acad- A Tour of Phinizy Swamp emy, a private 501C(3) nonprofit orga- nization, operates the park as part of its Elliott O. Edwards Jr., Ed.D. Ditch, Phinizy Ditch, and Butler Creek mission to promote environmental stew- converge, the swamp stretches between ardship. Striving to become the premier f William Bartram had veered a bit on Doug Barnard Parkway on the west and environmental education training center his journey from Shell Bluff to Fort the Savannah River on the east. Bobby in the Central Savannah River Area, the MooreI he would have slogged through a Jones Expressway runs through the center Academy provides educational programs cypress swamp known over the past cen- of the swamp and the Augusta Regional and public outreach events at the Nature tury as Phinizy Swamp. Travelers passing airport lies on its southern edge. Park and conducts research on natural re- the area in 1990 saw a dumping ground. The Phinizy ecosystem covers more sources issues affecting the community. Dr. Gene Eidson saw an opportunity. than 7,000 acres owned by Augusta-Rich- The Academy promotes sustainable Participants of Bartram Trail Confer- mond County, the Georgia Department development practices and technologies ence’s 2005 meeting found a wetland that of Transportation, and private landhold- to preserve the future health of our water is making a comeback. ers. It is the discharge point for numer- resources and to ensure long-term eco- On a mild Saturday morning they ous flooding sources in Augusta, draining nomic growth. The Southeastern Natu- drove out of Augusta to spend a few hours approximately 50,483 acres (78.8 square ral Sciences Academy has a vision that, in the Phinizy Swamp Nature Park. Park- miles). It also takes in some of the dis- through Phinizy Swamp Nature Park and ing in a gravel lot a mile from the banks charge of the Augusta Canal. Augusta’s its Center for Ecological Restoration, the of the Savannah River, they ambled across wastewater treatment plant dumps more park will serve as a catalyst for commu- boardwalks to a complex of classrooms than forty-five million tons of treated nity participation in urban water manage- and laboratories in surrounded by ponds sewage into the swamp, where aquatic ment. and a cypress swamp. plans and animals provide a final cleans- Further information on the Park and its Developed by the Southeastern Natu- ing of the water before it enters the Sa- activities may be found in the Academy’s ral Sciences Academy, the park features vannah River on its way to the Atlantic. newsletter, Swamp Notes, available, along award-winning constructed wetlands that Elevations within the Swamp itself with a calendar of events, on its website serve as habitat for myriad aquatic spe- range from over 160 to as low as 100 (http://www.phinizyswamp.org). cies, a rest stop for migratory birds and feet at the confluence with the Savannah (Editor’s Note: Elliott Edwards is a past tertiary wastewater treatment for the River. The Swamp is fairly flat, however, president of the Bartram Trail Conference. city of Augusta. Eidson, a Ph.D. who downstream of Butler Creek, the slope in- He lives in Savannah where he works for is the President and CEO of the Acad- creases to approximately 0.001 ft./ft., and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and is emy, greeted the conferees in a classroom further downstream at the Augusta Levee active in historical research and environ- where he recalled his dream of wetland Bridge, the slope increases even more dra- mental concerns.) restoration, his dozen years of work lead- ing the Academy, and the benefits of the project. Among the slides he flashed on the screen were pictures of rusted trucks being dragged from the swamp, of chil- dren on field trips, and of scientists using Fothergill Award 2006 sophisticated instruments to test the wa- ters of the river. As he led the group on a walking tour now open for Applications into the swamp, Eidsen pointed out plant he Bartram Trail Conference is now make an informal report on work to be species native to this habitat. He discussed accepting applications for its Fother- published in BTC newsletter, The Travel- what wetlands are, why they are so valu- gillT Research Award. One or more fel- ler and/or presented at biennial meeting able, and the relationship between wet- lowships of $500 are awarded annually to of the BTC (at discretion of program land organisms and their environment. an advanced graduate student or recent committee). Deadline for receipt of ap- The park offers views of flora and fauna Ph.D. whose research promises to lead to plications is February 28, 2006. The award typical of the Savannah River basin. On publication, book, article, dissertation, or is for use in 2006. For more information, any given day one may see a kingfisher, other substantive product in studies relat- contact Dr. Kathryn H. Braund, Dept. of blue heron, otters, alligators, and bobcats. ed to William Bartram. Appropriate areas History, 310 Thach Hall, Auburn Univer- During the winter, a keen eye will spot of scholarship include but are not limited sity, AL 36849. Phone: (334) 844-6649.; migrating birds of prey that winter in all to the natural sciences, history of sci- email [email protected]. Please visit of Georgia. ence, literary studies, journalism, history, our website at http://www.bartramtrail. Lying on the downstream edge of biography, archaeology, art, photography, org/ for more information about the the city of Augusta where Beaverdam and ethnohistory. Recipients are asked to award as well as an application form.

 nudum, meaning a name published with- out a description. John Eatton LeConte Bartram’s Botanical provided a complete description of the Shoals Spider Lily in 1836 and named it Hymenocallis coronaria. Explorations Just south of I-20 in North Augusta is Savannah Bluffs Heritage Preserve, in the Augusta Frontier created by the South Carolina Depart- ment of Natural Resources to protect a Brad Sanders Augusta also for the fact that several im- population of Shoals Spider Lily and an portant Indian paths crossed above and aboriginal fish weir. Coincidentally, there hen William Bartram visited in below the rapids. is a disjunct population of Bottlebrush late May, 1773, Augusta was the Among these rocky shoals of the Sa- Buckeye, Aesculus parviflora, which is na- centerW of the Indian trade for the South- vannah River fall line Bartram found tive to the Chattahoochee and Alabama east and the largest city (really, more of a one of the rarest and most habitat spe- river systems. village) on the southwestern frontier. As cific plants in the Southeast. The Rocky William Bartram first saw Bottlebrush yet, the surrounding countryside was not Shoals Spider Lily, Hymenocallis coronaria, Buckeye on his visit to Uchee and Apala- so heavily settled as on the east side of the grows only on the rocky shoals of rivers chicola on the in Savannah River in South Carolina, which just above the fall line. These lilies require 1775. He gave an incomplete description was filling up fast. During his travels to in the Travels and suggested no name Augusta and around the New Purchase except that he mentioned Aesculus alba Bartram had opportunity to botanize (White Buckeye) in Monroe County, in an area that had not seen significant Alabama. In his rambles about Augusta settlement since the passage of Ponce de Bartram found another Buckeye which he Leon and his army of adventurers 250 named Aesculus sylvatica, Carolina Buck- years earlier. eye. En route to Augusta from Savannah At the falls of the Savannah River Bar- Bartram noted that the land rose sensibly tram saw Lesser Rosebay, his Rhododen- in terraces as he traveled farther from the dron ferruginium, which was named Rho- sea. He surmised that at one time this land dodendron minus by André Michaux. Also, had been covered by the ocean, which had Bartram mentions Philadelphus inodorus, deposited a sandy soil and the fossilized Scentless Mock Orange; and a cerulean oysters at Shell Bluff. As he approached colored mallow that is anyone’s guess. Augusta he was surprised to find grow- On the banks of the Little River Bar- ing on the banks of the Savannah River tram described a “very curious shrub” that Leatherwood and Shooting Stars for he turns out to be the elusive and rare El- thought the climate too hot for them to liottia racemosa. In modern times it is not thrive. The steep and forested banks of the know to exist so far north except for one Savannah River provided cool protection Shoals Spider Lily, Hymenocallis coronaria small population near Pollard’s Corner in for such plants. Columbia County, which lies exactly on This land about Augusta was -inher fresh, unpolluted running water, rocks to Bartram’s route to Fort James. Elliottia ently different from the land just north cling to and rapids to aerate the water. was identified in 1808 from a collection of Augusta, which was marked by a hilly Bartram briefly mentioned this gorgeous made in Burke county by Stephen Elliott. terrain and rocky rapids among the rivers. plant as first appearing above Augusta Bartram’s drawings of Elliottia are in the At Augusta Bartram was able to observe among the rapids, now about where the collection of the Natural History Muse- the blending of the Coastal Plain and the I-20 bridge crosses. He wrote; um in London. Piedmont, which is most obvious at the Along the banks of the Savannah Upon the rich rocky hills at the cataracts I-20 bridge, Lock and Dam Park and Sa- River and among the hills overlooking of Augusta, I first observed the perfumed vannah Bluffs Heritage Preserve in North the streams and rivers Bartram found a Rhododendron ferruginium, white Augusta, South Carolina. In the Pied- plant in bloom in May, 1775 that obvi- robed Philadelphus inodorus, and ce- mont, where rivers approach the Coastal ously made an impression upon him. He rulean Malva; but nothing in vegetable Plain, there are a series of rocky rapids as wrote… nature was more pleasing than the odor- the land makes a slightly steeper descent. iferous Pancratium fluitans, which al- This is the fall line and Augusta sits right … fiery azalea, flaming on the ascend- most alone possesses the little rocky islets below the rapids of the Savannah River ing hills or wavy surface of the gliding which just appear above the water. because that was the limit of navigation brooks. The epithet fiery, I annex to this upriver. Oglethorpe chose the place for Bartram’s Pancratium fluitans is nomen most celebrated species of azalea, as be-

 BTC Field Trip: Philadelphia in Spring 2006 Kathryn Braund large houses, the former estate of Adolph Rosengarten, Sr. Now maintained as “I resolved to make a little botanical a public garden, we’ll view spectacular Lesser Rosebay, Rhodendron minus excursion…” flower and vegetable gardens, as well as a ing expressive of the appearance of it in woodland garden, water garden and herb flower, which are in general of the colour o wrote William Bartram in the intro- garden—among other wonders. At the of the finest red lead, orange and bright duction to Travels. (xxvii) At the final end of the day, we return to the historic gold, as well as yellow and cream colour; dayS of the conference in Augusta, mem- district of Philadelphia for a night on the these various splendid colours are not bers of the BTC made the same resolu- town. only in separate plants, but frequently tion and called for a field trip in 2006—an all the varieties and shades are seen in “off year” when the biennial conference Day Three: We board the bus for an excur- separate branches on the same plant, does not convene. The destination choice sion to two of the great gardens of Amer- and the clusters of the blossoms cover the for the first official field trip was unani- ica: Winterthur (winterthur.org) and shrubs in such incredible profusion on mous and enthusiastic: William Bartram’s Longwood (longwoodgardens.org). At the hill sides, that suddenly opening to home in Philadelphia. Thus, preliminary Winterthur, in addition to the antique- view from dark shades, we are alarmed plans are in place for a late spring “botani- filled mansion of the late Henry Fran- with the apprehension of the hills being cal excursion” to Bartram’s Garden and cis du Pont, there will be exhibitions on set on fire. other sites of interest. Please find below a 18th–19th century needlework and antique tentative itinerary. Final plans (and dates) teaware. The sixty-acre garden will pull William Bartram was the first botanist will be made when we determine actual you outside, while some may wish to visit to describe Flame Azalea, which grew in interest and participation. the extensive library and museum (home abundance in the Piedmont of Georgia of the famous portrait of James Ogletho- Proposed Date: May 24–26 and South Carolina. The Flame Azalea rpe Presenting the Yamacraw (Creek) In- Day One: Arrive in Philadelphia and ranges from Pennsylvania to the Georgia dians to the Georgia Trustees). After lunch settle in. Suggested afternoon stop (on mountains, generally growing most abun- at Winterthur, we’re back on the bus and your own) is the Second National Bank dantly in the Appalachian Mountains, but off to nearby Longwood, the 1000+ acre of the , at 420 Chestnut Bartram wrote that as he traveled along creation of Pierre S. du Pont and home to Street. This historic building is modeled the Savannah River north of Augusta a variety of horticultural displays, wood- on Greece’s Parthenon and is operated by there was an abundance of Flame Azalea. lands, twenty indoor gardens and green- the . There, enjoy a In fact, the Savannah River has been a houses, as well as numerous fountains. stroll through the Portrait Gallery, which corridor of distribution for this beautiful Cost of participation: $150 (this includes includes portraits of Benjamin Franklin, plant as far south as Ebenezer. all entrance fees, guided tours, two lunch- Thomas Jefferson and, of course, the fa- A listing of plants that Bartram saw es, chauffeured charter van and snacks). mous portrait of William Bartram. As- above and below Augusta shows that at Participants are responsible for all other semble that evening for drinks and dinner the time the landscape held a variety of meals, as well as lodging and transporta- (Dutch). Suggested locale: Philadelphia’s trees and flowering plants that was more tion to Philadelphia. Once we determine City Tavern (citytavern.com). diverse than the average forest of today. participation, an attempt will be made to We may today still find such woodlands Day Two: We board a chartered coach for secure a group rate for a hotel in the his- in deep ravines and steep river banks that Bartram’s Garden (bartramsgarden.org). toric district of Philadelphia. were not conducive to farming and log- We’ll spend the morning there, exploring To make the trip a reality, we need ging. the house built by John Bartram as well prompt expressions of interest/commit- (Editor’s Note: Brad Sanders, who as the wonderfully maintained grounds— ment in order to firm up reservations, se- teaches graphic communications in Ath- some forty-five acres that features farm cure transportation and make group hotel ens, Georgia, is publisher of The Traveller, buildings, archaeological digs, a wetland rate inquiries. If you are interested, please webmaster of the BTC website [http:// area and other surprises. We’ll lunch at contact Kathryn Braund at your earliest www.bartramtrail.org], and author of the garden. Then, we’re off to Chanti- convenience at [email protected]. Guide to William Bartram’s Travels. Ath- cleer Garden (chanticleergarden.org). Itinerary and cost are subject to change ens, Georgia: Fevertree Press, 2002.) This 35-acre pleasure garden includes two depending upon participation.

 group publishes a series of seven de- North Carolina Bartram Trail tailed topographical maps available to the public, along with other information, on its website www.ncbartramtrail.org. Its Trail-blazing after all these years semi-annual meetings provide updates to Tim Warren for day-long workhikes. Dr. Jim Lowe of the membership about the trail, elections fter almost three decades of work by Robbinsville, the next president, contin- of officers, a guest natural history speaker, the North Carolina Bartram Trail ued this momentum by hosting Outward and afternoon guided hikes on the trail. SocietyA a hiker can now walk the North Bound groups and sponsoring “alterna- Special celebrations have included a lec- Carolina Bartram Trail for eighty miles. tive spring breaks” with college students ture by noted ethnobotanist Dr. James While the entire trail does not follow di- that dug trail by day and base-camped by A. Duke at its 25th anniversary meeting rectly on Bartram’s footprints, in several night. and two biennial meetings of the Bartram places it traverses locations that Bartram Toting their chainsaws, Pulaskis (dig- Trail Conference. described in his Travels and affords mod- gers with an axe blade), and brush eat- We extend a hearty invitation to the ern “travellers” opportunities to rediscover ers, club members continue to join for members of the Bartram Trail Confer- the rich biological diversity that he de- monthly workhikes each second Saturday, ence to join us on the NC Bartram Trail. scribed there. as weather permits. Beyond the routine My goal is to continue to provide op- The trail offers a year round visual work of clearing trees blown down by portunities for service work hikes on the feast of nature: delicate spring wildflow- storms and restoring tread washed out BT for outdoor enthusiasts in the form ers; Flame and Clammy Azaleas; water- by the heavy rains that fall in the uplands of day hikes, overnight hikes and work falls and fast flowing rivers; and autumn’s of the , the Society hikes. These can be for individuals, fami- blazing hardwood forests. Beginning at continues to improve the trail. Recently, lies, church or scout troops, and school Bee Gum Gap near the North Carolina- members set bulletin board signs at the groups. Work hikes can be tailored to fit Georgia border, where it connects with major trailheads and small directional almost any group. Persons interested in the Georgia Bartram Trail, the pathway woodland signs that correspond to land- receiving notices of the workhikes may winds its way through some of the most marks on the Society’s maps. Additional visit the BTS website at www.ncbartram- rugged terrain in the southern Appa- yellow blazes mark the main trail, and trail.org and sign up for the Google work- lachians and ends at the top of Cheoah blue blazes denote the side trails to vistas hike groups. Bald, some twelve miles northeast of An- along the BT. Whether for work or excursions, a visi- drews, NC. On only a few miles will the The club plans to re-route and extend tor to the North Carolina Bartram Trail hiker’s boots tread on gravel or asphalt. the trail, cutting a new section which will may behold, “with rapture and astonish- Work began in 1977 when a handful trim five miles off the current road walk. ment a sublimely awful scene of power of amateur naturalists dreamed of com- It also hopes to link the Bartram Trail and magnificence, a world of mountains memorating William Bartram’s travels to the Little Tennessee River Greenway piled upon mountains.” —William Bar- and writings with a foot trail in western through Macon County. tram, 1775 North Carolina. They founded The North Publications and meetings draw in- (Editor’s Note: Tim Warren is President Carolina Bartram Trail Society and dedi- terest in Bartram and the trail. Society of NCBTS Board of Directors, 2006– cated themselves to keep the trail open and members have assisted authors from 2007. He lives in Brevard, NC.) cleared of storm damaged trees, to promote National Geographic and Backpacker. The interest in William Bartram’s travels and writings, and to stimulate interest in the local flora and fauna by encouraging pub- ntending to explore as far west as the Overhill Settlements of the Chero- lic enjoyment of the trails by both walk- kees, south of the current Knoxville, Tennessee, Bartram left Charleston in ing them and helping to maintain them. Ilate April 1775. His itinerary took him through the South Carolina uplands and Club volunteers—botanists, firefighters, across the Oconee Mountains. He crossed the Chatooga River and passed the attorneys, computer programmers, and ruins of Stekoa, near the current Clayton, Georgia. At the eastern continental di- assorted others, assisted at times by the vide, he entered the valley of the Little Tennessee River, exploring in late May. U. S. Forest Service programs such as the Along the way, a storm, “armed with terrors of thunder and fiery shafts of Youth Conservation Corps and Young lightning,” drenched him. After he dried out in an abandoned Indian hunting Adult Conservation Corps, built the trail. cabin, he proceeded down the valley where he stayed at the Cherokee town of Under the leadership of club president Cowee and explored the surrounding mountains. Here he had his memorable Burt Kornegay in the 1990s, the society encounter with the Cherokee maidens, witnessed an Indian celebration, and “be- completed the eighty miles of trail and held with rapture and astonishment a sublimely awful scene of power and mag- blazed a section along the Little Tennes- nificence, a world of mountains piled upon mountains.” see River for a canoe trail. Burt’s articles He cut short his trip beyond Cowee after three days in the rugged Nantahala attracted others, including several college (“Jore”) Mountains and made a hasty return to Augusta, Georgia. fraternities who joined local members

 that meeting and in 2000 the Confer- ence elected her its president. Who Are The Members “It is William Bartram’s character that impresses me and draws me to his work,” she says. “He was a genuinely fine of the Bartram Trail man. He had intense interest and curi- osity in the world around him and a rare Conference? ability to overlook the flaws of those he encountered. He wasn’t jealous, mean or n this and upcoming editions of The Kathryn Braund petty; he could roll with the punches; Traveller we will feature brief intro- The “Bicentennial Tree” caught the eyes he was friendly and open minded; he ductionsI to members of the Confer- of a young woman as she and her fa- didn’t hold grudges and tried his best to ence. ther walked through an exhibit at the be a good person—all virtues I admire. Jacob Lowrey 1976 National Peanut Festival in Do- “Of course, he was a keen observer than, Alabama. “It was a Franklinia,” and that makes his writing very valuable As others with an interest in William she says, and with it was the story of a for historians and he was a wonderful Bartram, Jacob Lowrey grew up along botanist named William Bartram. “It writer, so his work is a joy to read. But the trail that Bartram followed. This was the first I had heard of Bartram. Bartram is more than a ‘source’ to me member of the Bartram Trail Confer- They were also selling little Franklinia and I think that is because his goodness ence was born in Burnt Corn, a hamlet twigs. We bought one, followed the two is so evident.” near Evergreen in southwest Alabama. pages of directions on its tender care, Burnt Corn sits astride the old Federal and promptly killed it,” she says. “Since Robert (Bob) Greene Road that connected the Gulf Coast then I’ve killed several other Franklinia Bob Greene’s interest in William Bar- with middle Georgia and is known as twigs, but I hope I’ve done more jus- tram did not stop with tramping the the site of a battle between the Upper tice to Bartram in my writing and re- Bartram Trail in Georgia. He went on Creeks and settlers in 1813. search.” to co-author, with Chuck Spornick His interest in the Federal Road led Kathryn H. Braund researches South- and Alan Cattier, An Outdoor Guide to Jacob to William Bartram, who passed eastern Indian history and colonial and Bartram’s Travels (University of Georgia along the Creek trading path in 1775 on revolutionary-era American history and Press, 2003), a guide to foot, horseback, his way to and from Mobile and Baton teaches students at Auburn University. and canoe travel along the areas ex- Rouge. “Little did I know growing up Holding undergraduate degrees in his- plored by Bartram. that the road through the middle of the tory and geography from Auburn and A native of Belmont, New York, Bob community of Burnt Corn had so much a Ph.D. in history from Florida State received his BS in Science Education history associated with it,” he says. University, she has published numerous from Bowling Green State University, Educated at Auburn University, the articles related to Bartram. Among the Ohio and earned his Masters and PhD University of Alabama (M.B.A.), and books she has written is William Bar- in Library Science at Florida State Uni- Georgia State University, Jacob is a tram on the Southeastern Indians, which versity. Certified Public Accountant in Green- she edited and annotated with Gregory After twenty years (1966 through ville, South Carolina, where he pursues A. Waselkov. 1986) of service as head librarian at his hobby of historical research. He has Born in Birmingham, Alabama, Kennesaw State College (now Univer- attended two biennial meetings of the Kathryn was raised in the small south- sity) north of Atlanta, he moved to the Bartram Trail Conference. east Alabama town of Hartford—the position of Science Bibliographer at It is Bartram’s character that most Alabama Wiregrass. Beyond her profes- Emory University. Since his retirement draws him to Bartram and his travels. sional interests, Kathryn enjoys growing 1998 Bob has taken up photography se- “While Bartram was certainly no rough African violets and cooking and reading riously, is Secretary of the Bartram Trail and tumble sort of frontiersman, say like cookbooks. She recently “retired” from Conference, and has attended three bi- a Davy Crockett, Daniel Boone or Sam her local volunteer fire department, ennial meetings of the Conference. Dale, he did not seem to be intimidated where she served for ten years as both a A man whose life has been devoted by the unknown. He must have used his firefighter and a member of the board of to books and to what we may learn superior intellect, his cat-like curiosity, director. She was president of the board from them, Bob values Bartram for his and sense of humor to impress others, for many years. writings. “New England and Europe whom often he must have entrusted Kathryn has attended Bartram Trail learned about the American southeast with his life—0i.e. Indian Traders and Conference meetings since the bicen- (topography, Native Americans, plants, Indian Chiefs.” tennial of Travels (1991). She presented and animals) from Bartram’s Travels.” her first paper on William Bartram at

 self had prepared. Bartram didn’t actually visit the Springfield Church, but he might well have met some of the congregation. President’s Notes He certainly visited Dot Jones’ Wrightsboro. Dot and a coterie of some of the finest cooks in Georgia fed us there too. And we or me, the 2005 Augusta conference was a surprise in many had the privilege to admire the lovely meetinghouse and explore ways. I knew that Dr. Ed Cashin, the preeminent historian the surrounding countryside—even saw a mulberry tree! Isaac, ofF colonial Georgia and noted Bartram scholar, had organized Dot, Ed, and the wonderful, determined people at the Augusta a wonderfully balanced program to highlight historic Augusta. canal museum have done for their own time what Bartram did As it turned out, the conference was all that—and much more. in writing his book. They have saved our history, broadened our The weekend was a good lesson in what the “Bartram heritage” understanding of the world, and provided inspiration for the rest is all about. The BTC mission statement explains the “Bartram of us. heritage”: I think that William Bartram would have been especially de- It is awe and reverence for the glories of the natural world. It is lighted by our field trip to meet Dr. Gene Eidson and see his in- admiration and respect for Native American cultures. It is a love novative work at Phinizy Swamp and the Southeastern Natural of vigorous and exuberant exploration of the diverse natural Sciences Academy. Dr. Eidson and his staff prove that it is never landscape of the American South. It is dedication to a study of too late to respect the environment and work for improvement. the world thorough botany, biology, history, and cultural an- His “curiosity” and work to reclaim and safeguard Augusta’s nat- thropology. It is a determination to safeguard and preserve the ural environment is proving to be a model for other areas around things we value most for future generations to enjoy. Most of all, the country. it is an abiding “curiosity” and “wonder” that transcends time Bartram often praised the hospitality of his hosts. I think he and change. would be pleased to know that Augusta still celebrates his visit and its residents revere their natural and cultural heritage and In Augusta, we met wonderful people like Mr. Isaac Johnson and continue an unparalleled tradition of gracious southern hospi- Mrs. Dot Jones, who have dedicated their lives to historical pres- tality. ervation and education. It is easy to say that we value something, Kathryn Braund, BTC President but it takes special strength to act on those values. Such action requires time, perseverance, dedication, determination, and pas- sion, traits shared by all those we met in Augusta. Mr. Johnson The Traveller is the newsletter of has worked tirelessly for years to restore and preserve the St. the Bartram Trail Conference. Johns Building of historic Springfield Baptist Church. What a Jim Kautz, Editor real joy to sit in the sanctuary of that splendid historic church Brad Sanders, publisher with a convivial group of Bartram friends, listen to a talk on the historic church, and enjoy a wonderful lunch that our host him-

Fellow Traveler, hank you for your support of the Bartram Trail Con- load the form from the website: www.bartramtrail.org/ ference. I would like to encourage you to continue pages/membership.html and send it and a check for $15.00, yourT support by renewing your membership. If you are not payable to: a member, I would ask you to consider joining. Bartram Trail Conference Membership contributions are critical to the work of the Conference. They are used for the publication and and mail it to the following address: mailing of this newsletter; the maintenance of our website, Charles D. Spornick www.bartramtrail.org (averaging more than 600 uses a Bartram Trail Conference, Treasurer day); and for the biennial conference (our last conference 390 Saint Marks Drive was held in Augusta, GA in October 2005). Your dues also Lilburn, GA 30047 fund our Fothergill scholarship—awarding $500 to an ad- vanced graduate student or recent Ph.D. whose research Please note, membership contributions have been $15 for promises to lead to publication, book, article, dissertation, several years. They will remain at that rate through June. or other substantive product in studies related to William However, due to higher postage rates and increases in oth- Bartram. er costs, beginning July 1 dues will be $20. Please use the printed form in the newsletter, or down- Many thanks again, Chuck Spornick



Athens, GA 30605 GA Athens,

89 Hidden Hills Lane Hills Hidden 89 1

c/o Brad Sanders Brad c/o

The Bartram Trail Conference Trail Bartram The The Traveller The

Wrightsborough, continued from page 3 until their structure rose almost twenty the pond, and the Quaker farmers bring- its cemetery, an unpainted general store, feet above the streambed. Across Mattox ing their corn to be ground to meal. Some and the foundation of a nineteenth cen- Creek the forest had overtaken the ru- envisioned Bartram finding brothers and tury building remain. Four goats browse ins of the mill that Mattock had set on sisters in his native faith gathered around in the pen beside the shed that stands a shallow hill fifty yards below the dam. this mill, and recalled his words to Dr. near one of the two modern white frame But the conference travelers could imag- Fothergill: “Mills are erected on the swift houses. ine walls of raw pine boards, the wheel, flowing Streams….” Out in the countryside, on land once part of the Quakers’ forty thousand acres, stands a rare monument of a backcountry colonial settlement. Dot Jones, president of the historic foundation, led members of Savannah’s “Georgia Days” the BTC through a farm gate and across a hay field. Parking their vehicles in the field, they walked down a rutted track Features Bartram Lecture that dropped steeply into a valley. As they r. Edward Cashin presented a lecture Frontier as well as numerous other books stood on a wooded slope, she said, “This is on William Bartram at The Georgia on the history of Georgia, Cashin led au- Mattock’s dam. Joseph Mattock ran the HistoricalD Society’s Georgia Days in Sa- dience members through the travels of mill here.” vannah. William Bartram during the revolution- When following Bartram’s path, one Cashin is Professor of History Emeri- ary turmoil in South Carolina, Georgia, seldom finds a view that so nearly matches tus at and found- and Florida. his. Streams of water ran gently over the ing Director of the Center for Georgia Bartram was the Historical Society’s granite boulders that Quaker settlers had Studies. Author of William Bartram and “Honored Figure in Georgia History” slid into a natural shoal and fit into place the American Revolution on the Southern during its 2006 Georgia Days.

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