Reykjavík! #1 The Thirty Best Icelandic Albums 2006 • The Lonesome Traveller Relives Grettissaga Steingrímur J. Sigfússon: We're All in it Together • Looking Back at 2006

Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 1 // 12 January - 08 Febuary 2007 P_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_YEAR_05_JANUARY_12_FEBUARY_08 Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew

06 Defending the Welfare System The Reykjavík Grapevine An interview with Steingrímur J. Sigfússon Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is 10 A New Worldview [email protected] Trausti Valsson discusses global warming Published by: Fröken ehf.

12 Religion by Numbers Editorial Office A column by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson +354 540-3600 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding editorial content. 16 Best Most Bizarre News Stories of 2006 The funniest, oddest and most amazing news in 2006 Marketing Office +354 540-3605 / [email protected] 24 Bread Cakes & Heartbreaks for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution An interview with filmmaker Ísold Uggadóttir and subscriptions.

26 When the Powder Has Dried Publisher’s Office An interview with Serbian filmmaker Goran Paskaljevic +354 540-3601 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding this publication.

Features The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] 18 The Thirty Best Icelandic Albums of 2006 Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Assistant Editor: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Music & Nightlife Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] 20 Jóhann Jóhannsson: A User’s Manual Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] An interview with Jóhann Jóhannsson Staff Journalists: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Virginia Zech / [email protected] 22 Amiina: The Word for the Female Soul Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Helgi Valur is loving Amiina’s release concert Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] Staff Assistant: Jóhanna F. Sæmundsdóttir / [email protected] 22 You Could Have Had It So Much Better Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] Jakobínarína, Singapore Sling and The Brian Jonestown Massacre at Nasa Proofreader: Erika Wolfe

23 CD Reviews Cover photo by: Gulli Már On cover: Icelandic rock band Reykjavík!

Outside Reykjavík Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press # of copies: 30.101. 28 An Eclectic Visit to the Lapland & Tallinn A Grapevine reporter visits Estonia The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key 30 Exploring the Historic Sights of Grettissaga locations around road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information The Lonesome traveler goes to Skagafjörður centres.

32 A Tale Of Two New Year’s Are you planning an event? Do you want to tell us something? Comparing party-action ‘cross the globe Send a press release to: [email protected] We are always looking for articles. Send your submissions to: [email protected]

Info. Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the other way around)? If so contact: [email protected] B01 Listings You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. B08 Food Reviews (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). B09 Bezt í Heimi: Grái Kötturinn The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from B10 Ultimate Survival Guide November through April, and bi-weekly (fortnightly) from May til October. Noth- ing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written B11 Counting in the New Year Across the Globe permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavored to ensure An interview with photographer Jill Waterman that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change.

Subscribe to the Reykjavík Grapevine by visiting www.grapevine.is. Subscription inquiries: [email protected] and +354 540 3605.

From the Editor’s Chair

It is a new year, a time to wipe the slate clean. was prompted by foolish pride, against a better and free of foreigners with a stricter immigra- A time to start over. There is a full year ahead judgment, and against our best interest. tion policy is not only erroneous; it is anachro- of us, full of exciting new opportunities and Another wrong is the way in which some el- nistic in a world that is actively shrinking and second chances. Chances to right some of the ements in our society have chosen to approach becoming ever more globalised. And as Trausti wrongs from the previous year. There were the discussion of immigrants in Iceland. While Valsson points out in this issue, it might soon enough of those made last year. We are revisit- there is a lot left to be desired in that depart- be immoral as well, if global warming will rise ing some of them in this issue. ment, the discussion is not furthered by point- as predicted, we could soon be faced with the The most inexplicable of those may have ing out immigrants as a problem and trying to problem of environmental refugees. been the government’s decision to resume establish a segregation in our society by con- Environmental issues is another ball we commercial whaling. I believe everyone has re- tinuously discussing the “Immigrant problem” dropped. A pretty costly turnover in my mind. alised by now that this was a wrong decision. from the perspective of us vs. them, instead of Despite growing opposition from every corner The backlash from the international society has shaping the discourse around solutions to the of our society, the government so far remains been even more than we could have expected, only real problem with immigration in Iceland; undeterred in its commitment to building up and Icelandic companies abroad as well as the our lack of effort in assisting foreigners in inte- heavy industry in this country. Environmental tourist industry at home is suffering. You can grating in to Icelandic society. The way the dis- issues are a secondary thought in these parts. argue until you are blue in the face for our cussion of the “immigrant problem” has been We pride ourselves of our beautiful nature, rights as a sovereign nation to decide for our- directed lately, all that is left is for someone is our clean water and our fresh air. If we con- selves whether to hunt whales or not, or quote to suggest a “final solution.” tinue on the path we are on, those words will statistics regarding fish stock, whatever. There The fact is that Icelandic society was, and soon amount to the empty echo of a good is no way around the fact that there is no mar- is, in desperate need for immigrants. There memory. ket for whale meat, thus commercial whaling has been a steady need for workforce in the There are many wrongs to right. Thank- is economically unviable. Usually, that would country, and if foreign labour had not been fully, this is an election year. So, what better be enough to wake authorities from their readily available in the recent past, our soci- place than here? What better time than now? slumber, but so far, they are hitting the snooze ety would have suffered badly. The idea that button, reinforcing my belief that the decision Iceland should, or even could, be kept “pure”

0_RVK_GV_ISSUE 01_2007_LETTERS

Sour Grapes

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected].

Thank you very, very much Sve- sue from the dropdown menu on Hello! inn Birkir Björnsson for the article the left and your view should be of about the Sugarcubes reunion gig the contents of that issue… Now, I fell in love with your paper while in November. I wasn’t aware it had this is where things get compli- spending the month of July in happened and so was devastated to cated. On the upper-right side of Reykjavik this past summer. I was have missed it, but reading the ar- that page, you will find a link that excited to find your paper online so ticle was great, at least now I know says, “Download in .pdf,” bring the I could get my fix of all things Reyk- a bit more about what I missed and mouse pointer over the link and javik from afar. what a wonderful occasion it must then click the left button on your I have one complaint regard- have been. Thank you so much, mouse (for Mac users, simply click- ing your online issue though. I ing the button will bring the same am a graphic designer and like to Adam, Oxford, UK results). I know that this is a lot of download the issue in its entirety lefts and rights, but I cannot stress to see the whole thing, but you do Well, that is what we are here for the importance of the “Download not list the file size of the pdf of Adam. If you look carefully, you’ll in .pdf” link in this matter. each issue. I keep hitting download see that a panel of music scribes But naturally, there is nothing at work, then realizing the issue is we contacted actually chose this as that beats the real thing, so for all ENORMOUS and have to stop it! A the best concert in Iceland 2006. our international readers: send an simple “(PDF, xxxMB)” under the Although, that might not make you email to [email protected], link would suffice. Many people feel any better. In any case, it was a and we will send you the required out there have very slow connec- great concert, and I hope you and information. And that concludes tions and a little heads up on the other Sugarcubes fans were able to today’s lesson. file size could allow them to make enjoy my review of it. -Editor a more informed decision as to -Editor whether to download or not. Keep up the great work! I am Hi looking forward to reading this lat- Dear The Grapevine team, I am thoroughly enjoying Grape- est issue. I’m a german student, and in sum- vine on line, and learning and just mer 2006 I have travelled through trying to keep the feeling Last A. Samson Iceland for 4 weeks and I was so summer my wife and i visited Is- Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada delighted to be able to read a news- land for a few weeks and we will paper there, which was very infor- be back many times in the future. I don’t want to be rude, but… mative and just great, I especially You may want to look at my web- Considering that you are a graphic enjoyed the series of The lonesome site and it is www.jimtubb.com. designer, should it not be self-evi- traveller and the concert reviews. I want to thank you for keeping dent to you that even a lo-res .pdf Also the political issues were really me informed especially about the edition of a 48-page magazine in a interesting for a foreinger like me. music and art of Iceland as it is so large format is a pretty big file? In the last days I also enjoyed relelvant to the planet and to my But, I see where you are going, you to read your online articles, but own tendencies. are of course looking out for our it would be so great, if you could If you want to please send my readership at large. I will make sure send the grapevine to me,in paper note anywhere you want to as I try this is brought up at our annual or as a pdf or something, as you to connect to your country in all staff meeting. announce it on the left-bottom ways I can. I hope to develop an -Editor side on your webpage. exchange programme somehow I’ve tried several times to sub- with Canadian and Local artists in scribe, but everything that hap- the plans. Correction: pened, was that a new page In the December issue of the Reyk- appeard with the headline “Sub- Thanks and good luck and peace javík Grapevine, Jan Kargulewizc cription” and unfortunately noth- failed to properly credit Kári Gylfa- ing but! Jim Tubb son’s study of Polish immigrants in So it would be so nice, if you Iceland in his article A Short History had a service of sending grapevine Hello Jim, of Poles in Iceland. Gylfason’s study to europe or via email; i would re- As your letter has now been post- formed the basis of Kargulewizc’s ally enjoy it! ed in the Grapevine, I am sure writing, although his accreditation your mailbox will be flooded with did not reflect that clearly. We ex- Jan Dammel enthusiastic people from Iceland tend our apologies to Gylfason. Straße der Republik 9 and around the world who share 65203 Wiesbaden your interest in our country. This is GERMANY bound to happen. -Editor All back issues are available online in .pdf form. Simply select an is-

WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_NEWS_0 The Stories That Shaped the Year

Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson with reporting from Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson, Haukur S. Magnússson, Paul F. Nikolov and Steinunn Jakobsdóttir.

In the year that passed, these news stories an unjust execution is about to go forth tion was signed up for the coalition of the cooperation with Norway and Denmark. stood out above others. one should continue disputing it until willing to invade Iraq, against its will, we What will become of the air base left be- the last day. Protest walks took place on were told we had to support our closest hind in Reykjanes remains uncertain. Laugavegur in Reykjavík, in Akureyri, Eg- allies. Yet this is how they treat their so- Heavy Industry to Increase ilsstaðir and Ísafjörður. In a conversation called friends, it’s a real slap in the face for Despite Growing Opposition with the Grapevine right before the march, the government.” Whaling Resumes; The government’s plans for continued Ísafjörður organizer and scholar Ólína Þor- Mr. Sigfússon further commented that World Not Amused heavy industrialization drew criticism from varðardóttir reflected public opinion to the Iceland’s need for armed forces was prac- In October, the Icelandic government lift- the financial sector. Early in the year, Ágúst latest developments in the dam spectacle. tically non-existent, and that civilian insti- ed the ban on commercial whaling. The Guðmundsson, CEO of Bakkavör Group, “It was foremost Ómar’s call that sparked tutions such as the police and coastguard whaler Hvalur 9 was promptly prepared said in a speech at the Icelandic Business our interest in marching here in Ísafjörður. should be organized in order to provide the for its first journey in seventeen years. In Forum that the government’s plans for He has been very diligent in calling atten- needed protection – in the unlikely event of accordance with the International Whal- continued investment in aluminum smelt- tion to the impending harm to nature and a major disturbance. ”I mean, who is going ing Commission’s moratorium, Iceland ers and power industry was crippling other the environment and people are finally to bomb us? Who is going to invade us? gave up commercial whaling in 1986, al- industries. He claimed that the continued starting to realise that it is not too late to We are not talking about being defense- though scientific whaling was practiced up development was putting a lot of pressure do something about it. This is why we will less. If, for example, a crazed motorcycle until 1989. In 2003, Icelanders returned on the economical system, causing the ex- answer his call and march, expressing our gang came here and ran amok, we need to to whaling for scientific purposes, when a change rate of the Icelandic Króna to go sorrow over what is happening.” When have an organized force that can deal with program designed to research the effect of up steadily, causing other export industries asked about the effects the Kárahnjúkar that. What we don’t need is an air force minke whale on commercial fish stock was to lose money. Guðmundsson also claimed endeavour had on the people of Ísafjörður and a base full of soldiers,” said Sigfússon. launched. A press release from the Ministry that the required rate of return from the Ólína replied that the scope and effect of “A long and humiliating chapter in our his- of Fisheries states that the quota would be investment in heavy industry was too low. the projects is far greater than anyone en- tory is over, we’re not a feeble nation and nine fin whales and 30 minke whales dur- If the same investment had been made in visioned. “In environmental and economi- we can and should take responsibility for ing the 2006-2007 Icelandic fishing year, dynamic start-up companies, the return cal terms, the effects are alarming. Here our own security.” in addition to 39 minke whales that will would have been much higher than could in the West Fjords, we have experienced In May, Social Democratic MP Össur be caught as part of the scientific whaling be expected from heavy industry. Around drawbacks due to the inflation caused by Skarphéðinsson, accused the ruling coali- plan, started in 2003. the same time, analysts from KB Bank is- the dam, where greatly needed projects tion of “hiding from the parliament and “The position of Iceland has always sued a report stating that the government’s such as improving our dismal road system the people” the fact that the NATO base been that whale stocks should be utilised position on heavy industry was the main have been postponed to accommodate it. was going to leave. Pointing to an article in a sustainable manner like any other liv- factor pushing up the exchange rate, lead- On another note, the country belongs to by Valur Ingimundarson for the Icelandic ing marine resource,” stated a press release ing to losses in other export sectors. all of us; Easterners do not ‘possess’ the Literary Society, Skarphéðinsson pointed on the Ministry for Fisheries website. “Ice- According to a February Gallup poll, Eastern highlands any more than we pos- out that US authorities had told the Ice- landic policy on ocean issues is based on most Icelanders felt that the government sess the West Fjords peninsula. This is our landic government in December 2002 that maintaining the future health, biodiversity should not focus on trying to build an alu- heritage and we have an obligation to pass they intended to leave the country. This an- and sustainability of the ocean surrounding minum smelter in Iceland within the next it on to future generations.” nouncement was repeated formally about Iceland, in order that it may continue to be five years. Over 60%, of the eight-hundred a week before parliamentary elections in a resource that supports and promotes the people who responded, were against the 2003, when the US ambassador met with nation’s wellbeing. This involves conser- building of another aluminum plant - as has U.S. Defense Forces Leave Kefla- Icelandic government officials. vation and management of the resources been proposed for the north of Iceland - vík Air Base; Nationwide Scare of On September 30, the American flag based on scientific knowledge and guided while only 29.6% favoured the idea. While Rampant Motorcycle Gangs was lowered at the now former US military by respect for the marine ecosystem as a more women than men were against the In March, word spread that the United base at Keflavík. After a small ceremony, whole.” The Ministry stated that Iceland construction of more heavy industry within States military base in Keflavík was go- the Icelandic flag was raised alone and the had the legal right to resume sustainable the next five years, respondents from all ing to be closed, with all aircrafts leaving closure of the base and the withdrawal of whaling and that whale products would age groups - from 16 to 75 years of age permanently by September. The majority the Navy’s presence in Iceland became of- likely be consumed both in Iceland as well - showed a large majority against recent of personnel stationed were to leave, and ficial. as internationally. British authorities ques- development proposals. relatively new radar installations would be Many locals celebrated the turning tioned Iceland’s decision. In May, government officials signed a closed. Up to 500 Icelanders would loose point by throwing their own little fare- In an interview with the Grapevine at declaration of intent to explore the pos- their job. well parties and a large group cheered the time, Magnús Þór Hafsteinsson, Liberal sibility of building an aluminum smelter Since 1951, Iceland has had a bi-lateral the Navy’s departure at a meeting held at Party MP, stated, “I think we Icelanders in Húsavík, while Alcan is hoping to more defense agreement with the USA, for the Nasa the following day. “I’m still celebrat- should start whaling again, but we have to than double the production capabili- nation’s defenses. The decision to close the ing,” Stefán Pálsson, spokesperson for The be sure there is a market for the products.” ties of the Straumsvík Aluminum smelter. base was made uni-laterally by U.S govern- Campaign Against Military Bases told the According to a Gallup poll conducted in Meanwhile, Andri Snær Magnason’s book ment officials. Although the decision had Grapevine. Pálsson and a bus full of anti- Iceland in June and July last year, very few against heavy industry, The Dreamland, been apparent for quite some time, the war protestors went on a guided trip to Icelanders eat whale meet on regular basis became a best seller, and protesters gath- decision caught much of the nation by sur- Reykjanes to explore the area now desolat- and the market is very limited both locally, ered at an international protester’s camp prise – including the government and me- ed, but the area is closed for public traffic. as well as globally. Only 1.1% of Iceland- near Kárahnjúkar. dia. “It was all very informative and very unreal ers eat whale meat once a week or more, In September, the by-pass tunnel for Steingrímur J. Sigfússon, Left-Green MP to walk around such a ghost village and while 82.4% of 16 to 24-year olds never the Kárahnjúkar Dam was closed, effec- and long-time critic of the U.S. military’s think about all the waist that strings along eat whale meat. An international morato- tively starting the build up of the Hálsalón presence in Iceland, told the Grapevine such military bases. To think about all the rium on commercial trading of whale meat Lagoon, which will provide the hydroelec- that this was a historic day. “The dream money spent in constructing the buildings, is still in effect. tric dam with consistent water pressure. has certainly been realized, but of course it which now are empty. Money, which could Icelandic tourist companies, especially Near the end of September, fifteen thou- would have been better if our leaders had have been used for something very differ- in whale-watching industry feared back- sand people marched in support of retir- shown a little forward thinking and taken ent.” lash from travellers. A December Gallup ing television reporter and nature enthu- the initiative themselves. The way this came U.S have stated that the defense agree- poll confirmed that nearly half of Iceland- siast Ómar Ragnarsson and his call to the about was rude, and ultimately humiliating ment will be honored, although Iceland’s ers agreed that commercial whaling would Icelandic government to forego with the for the government and those parties that air defenses will be orchestrated from harm Iceland’s tourist industry. Kárahnjúkar dam. Ragnarsson called for have for over five decades supported for- other NATO bases in Europe. The Icelandic Icelanders to protest, stating that when eign occupation of Iceland. When our na- government has explored other options in 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_INTERVIEW/POLITICS

writing the book was to bring to light the main concerns Icelandic society faces at the moment and then pose the question where we should be heading. What kind of a society do we want, how are we going to treat nature, what role do we want Iceland to play in the international community, etc. When I wrote my conclusions, because of what you mention, my emphasis on the welfare society, the title wrote itself. Then I realised that the underlying theme in the end is all of us. The title highlights my uncompromising opinion, that we should by no means depart from building a welfare society by the likes of what we know from other Nordic countries, which I think is the most developed type of society on earth. What crossroads are you driving at? The crossroads, among other things, is our need to take the question [what kind of a society do we want], seriously and debate it. Are we OK with the fact that we are heading away from the equal welfare societies and are we going to continue on that path, etc? The wage gap in the country is increasing in a staggering way and inequality escalating. I am therefore posing this fundamental question with the hope that voters think about it in the coming elections. I think that next spring’s ballot is an enormous opportunity to counteract the situation and send out a clear message regarding this fundamental matter. You seem very convinced that Icelanders want the Nordic model more than anything else. Yes, I think that the vast majority truly does. However, there has been this urge to undermine the issues. When it gets close to elections, the Progressive Party for example, tries to disguise itself as a socialist party and acts as if it has been in the opposition. The Independence Party starts pretending as well, although it has pushed the country away from the Nordic welfare model, especially regarding taxation, how the state finances are governed and by privatising Defending the Welfare System public service. Now they are trying to change The Icelandic National Broadcasting Service into a limited-liability company. Is that in line Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo by Gulli with a Nordic cultural, democratic and equal society? No. A book like this one is of course not free Steingrímur J. Sigfússon, leader of political good period in my political career to tackle environmental preservation, your from criticism. It has been pointed out party the Leftist-Green Movement, subjects like these. I have considerable sincere belief in the advantage of the that certain conflicts are evident in your recently released the book Við öll – Íslenskt experience, after 24 years in Parliament and Nordic model and that you want Iceland writing, depending on what issue you velferðarsamfélag á tímamótum (All of Us - being an active participant in international to be an independent and neutral are tackling. That when criticising the Icelandic Welfare Society at Crossroads). collaboration. Of course I hope the book nation… government you paint a dark picture Sigfússon’s goal is to encourage will help the party in forthcoming elections. My dream, and I explain this in the book, is of the situation but when opposing the people to consider certain fundamental I also feel it can be a good manual for our that Iceland continues to be an independent EU membership, you rank Iceland high matters facing Icelandic society today, candidates. welfare and cultural state with the strength to in comparison with other nations. That issues like environmental preservation, Are you trying to influence undecided stand on its own, internationally, without any there is a certain struggle between you neolibertarianism, privatisation, growing voters or maybe turn someone to your superpower chauvinism. Therefore I want us as a pessimist and optimist depending wage differences, EU membership and side? to become messengers of disarmament and on what chapter you are writing. Iceland’s contribution to the international I hope that those interested in understanding peaceful solutions. Finally, I feel Icelanders When examined better, I don’t think these community. Issues, he says, voters should me and my party members can learn more should protect democracy and legitimate statements are contradictory. I’m not denying seriously consider in coming elections. about our views by reading the book. international cooperation and see that that many things have been going our way, The Grapevine met with Sigfússon at his But I also wrote the book so it would be international organisations and the national especially in the economical context or downtown office to learn more about his interesting for people with different opinions, right are not boycotted when people see creating capital goods, but I am also raising writing. not necessarily thinking I would win them fit. Iceland has nothing in common with the red flag. I see both the pros and cons over, but, and this I find very important, militarism for example and it’s so ridiculously in the situation but think we can do much What made you decide to write this for the discourse in general, and so readers stupid to group Iceland with military empires better. We can say that the ship is sailing at book? can better understand my conclusions. like happened with the Iraqi war. This I want high speeds, but not in the right direction There are a few main reasons for it. First of Why I am so deeply opposed to the heavy to see changed. regarding environmental, economic and all, I feel that party leaders should inform industry. Why we [The Leftist-Green Party] When you address environmental social issues. I feel our ship is sailing too close people about what they stand for and clarify have fought against the blind privatisation issues, taxation, growing inequality to the rocks. their views in a concrete way. Second of all, process. Why I am such a firm supporter of and the way the government has dealt I need to ask you one final question I think that Icelandic politics are lacking a the Nordic welfare system, etc. In the book with what you claim to be fundamental regarding its epilogue. There you write: solid ground for debate, a more extensive I explain why. People can then choose to issues facing Icelandic society today, “We can all have it good. We can all feel one than is made possible by short speeches, agree or disagree with me. you aren’t hiding your harsh opposition. well. We have enough for everyone, if articles or news clips. What the book for the Icelandic politicians have not written How have your opponents responded to only we share equally.” Aren’t you being most parts does, is freeing me from worrying such a book recently. the book? unrealistic? whether the article is 4,000 characters or the That is true. Unfortunately, this tradition Those who have commented about the No, I don’t want to believe that I am. If I lose news clip longer than two minutes. In the isn’t very strong in Iceland, but in the other book have for the most part been satisfied the dream of a better world I wouldn’t have third place, I find it important that people Nordic countries it is considered almost an with the project and praised it highly. The anything to do in politics anymore. I firmly discuss these big subjects facing us today inevitable part of every politician’s career, if Prime Minister even honoured me with his believe we can do considerably better in and in the near future in a wider context. he takes himself seriously and thinks he has presence at my release party. There have sharing our goods, reducing poverty and There are even more reasons to do this now something worthwhile to say, to explain his been fewer incidents where people are improving the lives of the least advantaged. than ever, because of how interconnected views this way. In my office, I have books addressing certain issues. My opponents That is the priority. When writing this, I am these subjects have gotten in the globalised written by such different politicians as have rather asked me how I found the time referring to Iceland being a rich country, with world. Anders Fogh Rasmussen, Sten Gade. Högni to write the book. That’s a question I find every means to reach this goal. In my opinion, You’ve been working in politics for 24 Hojdal and Kristin Halvorsen. In Iceland, this hard to answer. a society should be structured so everyone years. Why release the book now? Is it tradition has been almost nonexistent for the I need to ask about the book title. can have equal opportunities, and for that, a coincidence it was released so shortly past decades. Of course I would be excited All of Us - Icelandic Welfare Society I am willing to fight until my dying breath. before the upcoming elections? if the unlikely happened that the chairman at Crossroads. You cover collective That’s what the Nordic welfare society does I got the idea a few years ago, but I never of the Independence Party or the Progressive responsibility and the welfare of the and that’s what Iceland should do. succeeded in finishing the book earlier. Last Party would write a book. Hopefully I will human kind in general in great length fall, I had to decide whether to go forth inspire them to do so. in the book… with the book or forget about it altogether In the book, you address numerous At first, I was thinking about the title What so the timing is a coincidence. But this is a issues but the underlying theme is Now Iceland? One of my chief objectives in Special offer

Discounts on day tours 5% discount for 1 daytour 10% discount for 2 daytours 15% discount for 3 daytours

Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, Our brochure is available Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. at all major hotels and guesthouses. SIA.IS KYN 35667 01.2007 ÍSLENSKA

Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_POLITICS/ELECTIONS 2007 Is it Time for Iceland to Join the EU and/or Adapt the Euro? In the build up to the 2007 parliamentary elections, The Reykjavík Grapevine will be asking representitives from each of the political parties to answer questions regarding the most pressing issues.

Sæunn Stefánsdóttir Candidate for the Progressive Party xB The Progressive Party has emphasised open and reaching a long-term balance in our economy. We party’s policy. We can’t close our eyes to the fact honest debate regarding European matters. At our should discuss the pros and cons regarding mem- that the króna is a small currency and the develop- last national convention, we decided to continue bership on the basis of our strengths but not be ment, we have seen among Icelandic companies gathering information and working to define our driven by our economic weaknesses. and in the Iceland Stock Exchange, shows that aims in preparation for a possible membership talks Membership is not timely in our opinion since the question of adapting or connecting us with with the EU. The outcome will be presented at the it demands such long and thorough preparation. the Euro or other currencies is relevant. We must next party convention, where the party’s policy for We belief that we are fulfilling the obligations of a watch the progress and have the interests of wage the spring elections will be mapped out. responsible political party by watching the Union’s earners and the economy as guidance. European Union issues are most certainly in development . The discussion regarding the European Union the party’s limelight, just like in the society. Our We need a straightforward discussion regard- and the Euro is an inherent continuance of the stance has been characterised by our belief that it ing the future of the Icelandic króna and the influ- European Economic Area membership, which has is important to have an open discussion about the ences of globalisation and open financial markets proven to be good for Iceland. I predict we are pros and cons of the EU. But before we address in general. There is a certain development in the closer to a decision in this field than many foresee the question of membership we should focus on business sector regardless of political will or the today.

Ármann Kr. Ólafsson Candidate for the Independence Party xD At one time, Icelanders carefully studied whether ence within the European Union. The contract’s as it used to. Trading with it now mostly regards it was in the nation’s best interests to become influences have therefore been manifold in de- betting on its interest rate and foreign exchange members of the European Union. The conclusion veloping the Icelandic society and economy and listing. Such trading, where there is nothing else was that it was not. The main reason was that proven its importance. It includes most of what underlying than speculation, has great effects Icelanders couldn’t submit to the EU’s joint fish- we need and there is nothing that really calls for on micro-currencies like the Icelandic Króna and ing policy as the nation would lose authority over membership here and now. causes great currency fluctuations. It is therefore its fishing grounds. In light of that, it was decided Nonetheless, we can’t ignore that the rate normal to reconsider our status in a changed en- that Iceland would become a member of the EEA of the Icelandic Króna now is totally different vironment. Whether this means that we adopt treaty and at the same time a part of the Union’s from what it was when the EEA contract was the Euro or join the European Union, only time inner market. There is no doubt about the fact made and the same can be said about the fish- can tell. It is certainly one possibility and probably that the EEA treaty has been an important part ing industry. The Króna and the fishing industry the most likely one, as long as the Union shows of the country’s transition in economic and busi- have in common that their share in the Icelandic understanding regarding our special position in ness life in recent years. It also allows us to coop- economy have decreased in the wake of globali- the fishing industry. erate in the fields of education, culture and sci- sation. The króna no longer reflects the economy

Sigurlín Margrét Sigurðardóttir Candidate for the Liberal Party xF No, I don’t think it is time to apply for EU mem- is sort of a way for us to see if it is profitable or satisfied? For example ordinary people: do they bership. I think it is a matter of whether we need not. If it is, we will just have to see as time passes. have more money than with their previous cur- to and if the benefits are enough to warrant ap- I can well understand that companies began to rency? plying. As the situation is now, we are members present their financial reports in Euros when the of the European Economic Area, and we have Icelandic króna is not highly esteemed and the done quite well there. We are also a young nation state treasury’s credit rating is rapidly decreasing. and have had quite a period of growth in recent Many companies are now branching out into for- years, we have done so without being dependent eign markets and need the Euro, since the Euro on EU membership. We can easily participate in is apparently the name of the game in trading European affairs without being EU members and with other countries at the moment, in Europe at do fairly well. least. To adopt the Euro is a matter that deserves a To adopt the Euro as our main currency has to closer look. Companies have started to present be well considered. We can also learn from other their financial reports in Euros and that, I think, nations who have adopted the Euro. Is everyone

Guðmundur Steingrímsson Candidate for the Social Democratic Alliance xS Yes, it is time to apply for a membership. By all the EU. High prices and enormous interest rates But to prove the Social Democratic Alliance means, such an application would be to drag the are another example. The question is simple: view that EU membership and the Euro currency discussion in this country away from stereotyped What are the real pros and cons? We need this is worth it – and to give the others an oppor- propaganda between two blocks – the European- out in the open. The Social Democratic Alliance tunity to argue their logic against membership minded ones and the others – where the conflict believes that the benefits of an EU membership – by all means, we need to put the matter on our has often been battled with too many emotions and adopting the Euro are far greater than the agenda and apply. in my view and is stuck in a rut. flaws. We, among other things, point to a good In the meantime, the majority of the nation experience with the EEA treaty, despite the op- has stood by and scratched their heads in con- position it faced at that time. With that, we have fusion. This nation is in great need to decide its gone a good way towards joining the EU. The view on the European Union and the Euro. The Social Democratic Alliance alone will not drag the balance of the Icelandic Króna is the newest ex- nation into the EU and adopt the Euro though. ample of the need to seriously study, and without The subject needs to be discussed. The nation prejudice, whether we would be better off within needs to decide.

Katrín Jakobsdóttir Candidate for the Left-Green Movement xU In the Leftist-Green Party, we have real doubts to the European Economic Area’s legislation so participation in EU elections is sparse, people just regarding the European Union. We continue to it is clear that an EU membership is a big step, don’t see a reason to vote for MPs who work far develop our relations with contracts regarding as with it, we would take up all of the Union’s away and have a blurry domain. This doesn’t go business and cooperation, among other things in legislation. It is therefore not justifiable to argue hand in hand with our idea of democracy, which is the field of education, labour market and environ- that as members of EEA we are almost members to bring decision-making closer to the people. mental issues. It is clear that Icelanders can have of the EU. Regarding the Euro, I think it is clear that more influence on the European Union than they Finally, we have had doubts regarding the EU’s adopting the Euro must be closely related to EU do now and we can take Norwegians as our role inner organisation, where too much centralisation membership if we want to get its benefits. By do- models in those matters. and bureaucracy are characteristic while democ- ing so, the currency control would move out of An EU membership of course means for the racy is lacking in decision-making. The power lies the country, which some think is good considering most part, relinquishing our self-determination at the executive and even though the European existing governance. But we don’t think that the to Brussels and possible benefits from the mem- Union has gained increased power recently, the blame for irresponsible expansion policy of local bership doesn’t justify that. At present, about 20 executive is all the same the most powerful bat- authorities in economic matters can be put on the percent of Icelandic legislation can trace its roots tery in the union. Therefore, it is not surprising that Icelandic Króna! b akkyn jur eftir Evrípídes

Leikstjóri: Giorgos Zamboulakis Leikmynd, búningar og grímur: Thanos Vovolis Danshöfundur: Erna Ómarsdóttir Tónlist: Atli Ingólfsson Lýsing: Lárus Björnsson Myndvinnsla: Björk Viggósdóttir

The National Theatre of Iceland Miðasölusími 551 1200 www.leikhusid.is 10_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_INTERVIEW/GLOBAL WARMING

whole new worldview. “Climate change is not a new geologi- cal phenomenon. There have been warm eras, and cold eras before. In the past, ani- mals, humankind included, have dealt with this change by migration. North or south depending on whether it is getting warmer or cooler. This was not a big problem for a society of hunters and gatherers. In the present however, a climate change induced migration is very difficult because we have adopted a static society. As recently as the end of the 19th century, cold winters forced many people in northern Europe to migrate to America, but then there was no border control. Today, the situation is that most na- tions try to keep their borders closed.” Vals- son claims that to deal with this problem we will need to move away from the this static worldview where states are closed off by borders and look at the world in a more in- tegrated way, even going so far to claim that this could be the end of the nation-state. “We will have “environmental refugees”, something akin to political refugees. What other options will there be for people living in uninhabitable areas, other than migra- tion? If our part of the world is inhabitable, we will have to accept refugees. How else are we going to solve this? John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath is a good example. It is a story of people driven from their homes in Oklahoma by terrible droughts. They move to California in search of a better life, only to find roadblocks and landowners trying to defend their land. It is nothing new that peo- A New Worldview ple are forced to move because of climate changes, but the scale we can expect now is unprecedented,” Valsson says. Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Skari The Hub of the Oil Wheel According to Valsson, our patterns of habita- Discussing the impact of global warming the data is mostly based on empirical evi- ways, I am trying to bridge the gap between tion are not the only thing we can expect from the perspective of environmental plan- dence gathered in the past, while the ef- these two sides,” Valsson says. “I am trying to change. As the polar ice caps melt, new ning with Trausti Valsson fects of global warming are still mostly in the to put this vision in plain terms and show channels of transportation will open, espe- future, and therefore, a little less empirical. what the effects will be. It will help politi- cially in the north. If the arctic ice retreats it “It seemed that whenever I wanted to dis- The book is mostly based on a recent report cians and policymakers to make plans for would open a substantially shorter shipping cuss global warming, people would start dis- by the Arctic Council and the International the future, such as where to build roads or lane between the North Atlantic and the Pa- cussing weather changes, or changes in veg- Arctic Science Committee, called the ACIA where to build levees.” cific Ocean, through the Bering Strait. etation,” says Trausti Valsson, a professor of report (Arctic Climate Impact Assessment Valsson does not direct his focus on how This would put Iceland smack in the planning at the University of Iceland. Valsson Report). we can prevent global warming. “Years ago, middle of what would be one of the most has recently published a book called How the when the first reports started to show that commonly travelled shipping routes in the World Will Change with Global Warming. “I Fundamental Changes the climate was warming, the first reaction world, and in Valsson’s opinion, it would be am a planner, and I wanted to do see what Valsson’s interest in climate change was from politicians was to stop global warming. a natural selection for a transship and depot this meant from the perspective of environ- first sparked during his Ph.D. studies at UC They said, “We will agree to not increase harbour for oil tankers to North America and mental planning,” Valsson says about his Berkeley during the mid-eighties. A pro- fuel emission,” and several attempts have Northern Europe from Siberia’s rich oil fields book. fessor pointed out that changes in climate been made to reach that goal, such as the as well as from oil reservoirs in the Arctic There is an increasing agreement among might lead to changes in sea level. Valsson Kyoto Protocol. A fourth of the world nations Ocean that are considered to become ac- scientists that global warming will force ma- has been examining the possibility since. have ratified the Kyoto protocol, mostly de- cessible with global warming. The Icelandic jor changes in our way of life. According to “Climate change will alter some of the veloped industrial nations that have reached Ministry for Foreign Affairs is already explor- the most pessimistic predictions, it is a crisis founding principles of planning, not only a development level where they can move ing this possibility and recently released a re- of apocalyptic proportions. Floods, droughts, globally, but also locally,” Valsson states. away from polluting industry. It is easy for port called North Meets North: Navigation hurricanes and other climate-induced di- There are areas in downtown Reykjavík that them to say this, but it is more difficult to and the Future of the Arctic, where this op- sasters will ravage the planet, making large tion is examined in detail. parts of it uninhabitable. Others remain While the prospect of huge oil tankers sceptical towards the extent of the effects, roaming the ocean around Iceland is certain- and although no one has yet been able to “There are areas in downtown Reykjavík that are ly not a vision everyone endorses, we might demonstrate with accuracy what specifically extremely vulnerable to the rising sea level and it not have much say in the matter. Says Vals- those effects will be, the general consensus son: “Anywhere beyond three nautical miles is that something is about to change. Says is likely that sea will flood some parts of the city on of the coastline is international shipping Valsson: “We are likely to see droughts in ar- lanes and beyond our control. But Iceland’s eas that had plenty of water a few years ago, high tides.” location would likely make it the ‘hub of the while other areas, such as Central and East- wheel,’ a distribution centre.” ern Europe will experience much more rain As contradictory as it sounds, the effects and flooding, a good example is the flooding of global warming will make oil, the number of Prague, three years ago.” are extremely vulnerable to the rising sea force less developed countries, such as China one cause of global warming, more easily ac- The field of environmental planning will level and it is likely that sea will flood some and India, to meet these standards. I have cessible. “The disappearance of the ice pres- be greatly affected by global warming and parts of the city on high tides. As the climate reached a point where I say, ‘Let’s try to re- ents danger. It was not presumed possible to surprisingly little has been published on the gets warmer, more energy builds up in the duce the emission of greenhouse gasses as access these oil reservoirs before. The belief subject. “As an environmental planner, my aerospace, resulting in more energy in the much as possible.’ But like many others, I that the present oil wells will soon run dry is work consists of gathering all sorts of data weather, higher wind speeds and more evap- believe that we will not be able to prevent what has been pressuring nations to search from various scientific fields and incorporating oration, causing more rain. “When planning global warming, at least not without a major for alternative fuels sources. The danger now that data into environmental planning. There and developing areas near the coastline, this scientific breakthrough in the energy field,” is that the pressure to find alternative means was a time when natural conditions were not should be taken into account. It is necessary he says. Instead, he has chosen to accept of energy is not as much,” Valsson admits, given such a high priority in environmental to build flood levees and harbour construc- global warming as a fact, and focus on how adding, “This is your future. I’m too old fash- planning. Now, the goal is to design with na- tions higher than is commonly done have we should deal with the consequences. ioned to like it, but what should you do? ture,” He explains when asked what prompt- been doing, as scientists predict that the sea Stick your head in the sand?” ed him to write the book, and continues: level will rise anywhere from 50-90 centime- Environmental Refugees “When an area is under development, the tres in this century,” Valsson offers. In Ice- “My starting point is that global warming Trausti Valsson’s book is available at most first step is to contact a meteorologist to ask land, some of these precautionary steps have will continue as predicted or even exceed Icelandic book stores, from Amazon.com for a report on meteorological data for the already been taken. According to recent reg- predictions. Then we will be forced to view and free for download in .pdf form from the area. Then you ask geologists to supply data ulation changes, harbour construction must this problem in a completely different per- author’s website: www.howtheworldwill- for the area’s geology. All this data is then now be built 50 cm higher above sea level spective. That is, we will have to start to pre- change.com mapped out and you make a decision on than previous requirements. pare for the coming changes.” Valsson claims Arctic Climate Impact Assessment Report where roads should be built, where schools that the immense impact of global warming (ACIA): Available at: www.acia.uaf.edu) should be placed, etc. based on that data,” Bridging the Gap will change our fundamental ideas about the North Meets North: Navigation and the Valsson explains. “In the book, I try to take Frequently, meteorologists and natural scien- world. He equates the changes to a “para- Future of the Arctic: Available at: www. the same approach, except I am doing it on a tists warn us about climate change and how digm shift” as explained by the philosopher utanrikisraduneyti.is/media/Utgafa/North_ meta-scale.” it will affect different groups. Mostly, these Thomas Kuhn in his Structure of Scientific Meets_North_netutg.pdf The problem with this approach is that warnings are directed at politicians. “In some Revolutions, which will force us to adapt a Himinn og haf / SÍA 12_RVK_GV_01_2007_OPINION Religion by Numbers By Gabriele R. Gudbjartsson

their beliefs. The topic stayed on Lutheran service. Meanwhile, with my mind for a while and followed all due respect, I can also certainly me into the car after we left. Af- comprehend why so many people ter church we headed over to feel that a weekly dose of this quiet Smáralind to shop for gifts, and as Biblical lecture cannot meet their we entered the parking lot I quickly needs as a person living in the 21st got my answer as to where people century. spent their time and money. I could In approaching Icelandic people have sworn half of the country was about their rationale for low church present busily shopping for Christ- attendance, the recurring reasons mas, you know, that day we hon- given were that one, it’s just too our to celebrate the birth of Christ. boring, two, the church has not Yes, it was a week before Christmas reached out to embrace modern and the crowd was understand- times and lastly, that the lessons in able; however, what would those church are not applied to the way same people be doing on any other people realistically live their lives. Sunday afternoon? Can it be that Church is considered to be a sanc- church is only a thought on the tuary where all believers should most important events in people’s feel welcome. It is a domain where In 1949 artist Dan Robbins birthed lives; the memorable baptism, that people should leave feeling spiritu- a concept allowing millions of Van perfect day of wedding bliss and ally fed. Church used to feel like Gogh novices into the sacred por- the ceremony that allows them to an obligation to me until I found a tal of the creative world. It is called finally rest in peace. place that nourished my soul. Each Paint by Number. Each painting To understand a bit more about and every time I attended the ser- kit contains a colourless sketch in the national church I attended a mons directly applied to my life be- which each distinct area of the pic- Lutheran service on the first day cause it was delivered in a personal ture has a specific number. The art- of the New Year. As I approached and narrative manner. Now I yearn ist’s job is to match each number the sanctuary the sign on the door for church each week and I feel with an intended colour provided read, “Silence please, service in empty without worshipping with in the kit’s instructions. If you fol- session.” That immediately gave others in the presence of God. For- low the numbers, a beautiful image me an inclination of what kind of tunately for me, my options were will appear right before your eyes. atmosphere I would be joining. I plentiful when I sought out a place Practically anyone can be fooled. strategically chose a seat six rows of worship. It’s unfortunate that a Numbers can provide valuable from the front to obtain an observ- country that’s 84 percent Lutheran insight on the presentation of an able view of the congregation, the has a meagre 10 percent church image, the livelihood of a corpora- choir and the priest. The church attendance level. Maybe it’s be- tion or even the religious standing itself was statuesque and quite cause people feel as if their options of a nation. These powerful sym- breathtaking. Regal organ pipes, are limited and they cannot find a bols have been trusted throughout history to represent the truth in the most objective manner pos- sible. However, can the mere vision After church we headed over to Smára- of numerical data truly reflect the lind to shop for gifts, and as we entered faith of thousands of hearts? Sta- tistically speaking, Iceland carries the parking lot I quickly got my answer the title for having the highest per- centage of Lutheran Christians of as to where people spent their time and any country in the entire world. On money. paper this country’s inhabitants are almost as religious as the citizens of the Vatican City, the residence of Pope Benedict XVI. Neverthe- high ceilings, luminous candles and place that provides purpose and less, after living here for almost archaic statues all gave it a very guidance as they evolve and grow half a year my eyes and ears tell me holy ambiance. During the sermon in the world. that religion seems to be playing (spoken solely in Icelandic), the To put it rather simply, the real a game of Hide and Seek. Which only word I could actually make out evidence of our belief is in the way leads me to question, where does was “Jesus,” but I could still easily we act and treat one another. Al- religion show its face in the life of get the sentiment of the priest’s though it seems arduous to treat this society? effect on the parishioners around everyone as if we were encoun- Through my own personal me. People were clearly listening tering Jesus Himself, it is the only investigation it seems that most and engaged, yet caught in a spiri- proof we have to be judged upon. Icelanders do believe in God, or tual methodical process. Everyone If you do say you are a believer, some form of higher power; how- did what they were supposed to how well do your actions separate ever, the practice of that belief is do, which included sitting very still, you from an unbeliever? Belong- not a top priority. In order to find listening quietly, standing, sitting ing to a church is only one of many out what’s important in someone’s again, looking forward as the cho- ways you can convey your faith. life, two things to examine are their rus sang angelically in the rear and How many times have you done all wallets and calendars. Time and reciting their lines at all the cor- you can to help someone in need money happens to give an incred- rect moments. By nature, the Lu- or forgotten yourself to put the ible amount of insight as to what theran sector of Christianity tends needs of others before you? I didn’t people rank as imperative in life. to be on the conservative side. The intend to take us back to numbers, The Sunday before Christmas, mood is very solemn except for the but these are the only ones that re- my husband and I went to church omnipotent voice of the priest de- ally matter. And if we can get these and the traffic, as it is every Sunday, livering the reading of the sermon. percentages right at the end of the was nonexistent. At church that Although, I’m used to a much more day, we’ll create much more than day, one of the topics introduced “call and response” church setting, just a pretty picture, we’ll mass pro- was why church attendance was so where the congregation expresses duce an even greater tomorrow. low in Iceland and what it would themselves with alacrity at will, take to get people more active in I respected the traditions of this

WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS

NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS premiere: february 9th

The happy bloke is Gunnar. He sometimes The one below is Agust. pretends he is a very He sometimes thinks he’s the confused young man, Hulda shows Truelove as Devil himself. -i.e. Tom. Anne who loves Tom.

Conductor: Kurt Kopecky Director: Halldór E. Laxness

Hulda Björk Garðarsdóttir Gunnar Guðbjörnsson F A B R I K N Ágúst Ólafsson Jóhann Smári Sævarsson Ingveldur Ýr Jónsdóttir Sigríður Aðalsteinsdóttir Eyjólfur Eyjólfsson www.opera.is BOX OFFICE TEL. 511 4200 The Icelandic Opera´s Choir and Orchestra

We deliver it clean. Have a dirty time! (Book our nice prices at www.sixt.is or call 540 2222) 14_RVK_GV_01_2007_FICTION

The Floating World An Extract

Sölvi Björn Sigurðsson

I was frying eggs in the kitchen The letter, Christ. This must be when the phone rang, just before one of the freaks that had written six on a Friday afternoon. I had about the room. grabbed a beer from the fridge, „If this is about the room I’m not knowing if there’d be a second, sorry to tell you that it’s already and was in good mood, I suppose, let.“ The truth was that I had de- whistling along to Radiohead’s Fake cided not the let out the room, but Plastic Trees. I turned the stove of that really wasn’t anybody’s busi- and walked into the bedroom. ness but my own. „Hello.“ „I really had great hopes for „This question might surprise this relationship. That’s something you,“ the person on the phone you should think about when you said without introducing herself, get involved with other people. „but I need to know how honest There will be consequences. You you really are.“ can’t just walk away like there’s no- By strict definition this wasn’t a thing to it, like there are no feelings question – a question put the verb at stake.“ in front of the pronoun and ended What was this woman on with a question mark: How honest about? I was afraid that if I didn’t are you? But that was probably not get rid of her right away I’d be the heart of the matter. stuck with her for a long time. „How honest I am? Rather ho- „There are no feelings at stake. nest, I suppose. Not that it’s any of The room’s been let, I’m being as your business, honestly.“ honest as I possibly can be and Gallup, great. They’d been cal- now I’m asking you to stop calling ling me incessantly since I moved in me.“ and it was starting to get to me. „You can’t just walk away from Maybe I wasn’t used to having my what’s already happened. If you go opinions appraised by others, but trough life that way you’ll never be still, I’d had enough. What were able to live with yourself.“ these surveys worth anyway if they This was hopeless. I pulled the always called the same people? receiver away from my ear and sta- „Listen, I really don’t have time red into this little space that contai- for this,“ I said. „I was just frying ned all the potential nutcases of eggs in the kitchen.“ the world, and listened till I’d had I was going to add, goodbye, enough. but the Woman on the Phone in- terrupted me. „Where else would you? What Brief Synopsys I mean is: what are the odds of you Tomas is a young university student frying your eggs some place else who has just moved from a small than the kitchen?“ town to the city. He spends his Metaphysics freak, great. I had days drinking coffee and reading heard these companies were short and is relatively happy with his soli- of people but still thought they tude until one day the beautiful but should take more care in who they strange Saiko barges into his life. hired. Wasn’t Gallup one of the lar- Half Japanese - half Icelandic Saiko gest companies in its field? is larger than life and such a mys- „I really don’t have time for tery that not even she knows the this,“ I said and felt like the good answer. Saiko introduces Tomas to mood would end up in the sink, the taste of whisky, the works of ikið um hvernig líf þeirra sem eru samkynhneigðir raunverulega er, er, raunverulega samkynhneigðir eru sem þeirra líf hvernig um ikið egt sem hefur komið upp í hugann á æfingatímanum. Maður er er Maður æfingatímanum. á hugann í upp komið hefur sem egt

urinn, Patrekur, birtist, þá finnst honum það að tveir menn séu saman saman séu menn tveir að það honum finnst þá birtist, Patrekur, urinn, along with the eggs, if I wouldn’t Haruki Murakami and the world of kynnist hann þessum mönnum. Rúnar Freyr. Starf leikarans snýst um það það um snýst leikarans Starf Freyr. Rúnar mönnum. þessum hann kynnist

að eða haga sér á einhvern hátt. Við erum alltaf að leita að einhvers konar konar einhvers að leita að alltaf erum Við hátt. einhvern á sér haga eða að soon be free of this woman. „And the leg model. But Saiko is haun- if you’d be kind enough to remove ted by terrible nightmares and the me from your list, that would be enigma reaches its peak when she great.“ disappears. Tomas sets out to find „Unfortunately that’s not an her and the lines of reality start to option, Tomas.“ blur. In this fast-paced yet lyrical Tomas. She might as well have novel of love and loss, everyday life casually caressed my genitals as ad- in contemporary Reykjavik collides dressed me by name in that way. with a world where girls can read Your name simply wasn’t within minds, brainpower is for rent and the communication frame available Workers hunt the Dreamers for to Gallup. their inspirations. I hung up. Two minutes later the phone About the author rang again. Sölvi Björn Sigurðsson (b. Oct. 7, „You hung up on me. That’s an 1978) is an Icelandic novelist and Patrekur 1,5 honest answer, of sorts. But I have poet. His second novel, Floating to tell you that I’m really hurt that World was published in 2006 by you should treat me this way. I did Edda Publishing. SÝNT Á SMÍÐAVERKSTÆÐINU not expect that, when I wrote the letter.“ „Frábært verk fyrir fólk sem ekki þorir oft í leikhús.“ Fbl., KHH „Þetta er skemmtilegt leikrit, uppfullt af fyndni, kraftmikið og hratt.“ Mbl., ÞT Rúnar Freyr. Þegar maður kynnir sér hlutina, skilur maður þá betur. Ef maður er gagnkynhneigður veit maður til dæmis ekki svo m svo ekki dæmis til maður veit gagnkynhneigður er maður Ef betur. ýmisl þá um maður hann skilur spurt geta að hlutina, sér frábært kynnir var það maður og Þegar æfingu á Freyr. okkar Rúnar til ungling Bergsson Þegar Felix Siggi. fengum mætt. Við geta það. þeir sér kynna að andstreymi fer og maður en fordómum fyrr hvaða svo en lenda, þeir hluti, þessa hverju í um á sig ekkert átta veit Hann betur, homma ógeðslegt. skilja og að ljótt farinn bara er eitthv það segja rétt, þær vera vegna þetta hvers við skilja ekkert að finnst reyna Honum persónur, ólíkar viðbjóðslegt. við fást að alltaf mann. erum á Við áhrif minni manngerðir. eða meiri ólíkar alltaf skilja að reyna leiksýningu að í leika að vinnna sú hefur vegna þess og skilningi, og þekkingu

Miðasölusími 551 1200 www.leikhusid.is WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS Verð fyrir námsmenn aðeins 1.500 kr. NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS The Reykjavík Grapevine Readers Survey

Win a trip to GREENLAND or around ICELAND Courtesy of Air Iceland and Reykjavík Excursions

PRIZES Daytrip to Greenland for two with Air Iceland. Daytrip for two with Reykjavík Excursions.

The Reykjavík Grapevine readers survey at www.grapevine.is

Tell us what you think. Answer honestly for a chance to win an exciting travel experience.

Prizes are valid for 12 months after acceptance. 16_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_NEWS/ BEST OF

years ago, is quoted by both publications as saying she immediately noticed unfamiliar sounds and smells when she moved into her new home. Morgunblaðið and Sudurland. is further quote the young woman, Sigríður Pjetursdóttir, as saying she experienced a string of paranormal incidents in the house, ranging from a mysterious broken mirror to the perplexing vehicular induced death of her dog on a nearby road. Furthermore, a young cat belonging to Pjetursdóttir was found dead alongside an adjacent highway; a place that we are told was undoubtedly impossible for the small quadruped to reach under its own locomotion. After a frighten- ing bout with sleep paralysis, Pjetursdóttir is then said to have successfully exorcised the evil spirits from her home with the help of mediums and clairvoyants, who advised her to keep her drapes open during the day to allow sunlight into the house. According to Morgunblaðið and Sunnlenska Fréttablaðið; “These measures worked, and the polter- geist was driven away.” The longer version of the story, which was broken by Sudur- land.is, includes more detail and the caveat that while the nasty spirits have left, one or more benign entities remain. Thus we can presumably expect further updates, as the evidence continues to stack up. by Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson

Monday, April 24, 2006 Foreign Worker Arrested after Re- questing Glass of Vodka A man was arrested at a restaurant in Sel- foss late yesterday afternoon, after he re- fused staff’s orders to leave the premises. The man, who appeared to be intoxicated, was asked to leave after he ordered a glass of vodka at the bar and was refused ser- The Most Bizarre News Stories of 2006 vice. When the man refused to leave and continued to request his drink, the police were called and they arrived shortly there- Text by Grapevine Journalists Photos by Skari after. After questioning the man briefly they determined that “he could not sufficiently explain himself” and took him into custody In an attempt to bring to light the unbear- its latest decisions on what names parents and loved ones, but if they are caught abus- for the night. It was later discovered that able lightness of being, we bring you the may or may not give their children. In boys ing telephone privileges for the purpose the reason for the man not being able to funniest, oddest and most amazing news names, the committee approved Bill (which of committing a criminal act then that is a make himself understandable was that he stories from our website in 2006. would be pronounced “Bidl” in Icelandic) and matter for the police,” said Baldursson. The was a Lithuanian migrant worker and may Tóki while rejecting Mikhael. In girls names, Litla Hraun telephone system operates on not have expected what is a common drink Daley and Naranja were accepted, while Jú- a system of passwords, with each prisoner order in his country to arouse such a reac- Friday, January 6, 2006 dith, Apríl and Hnikarr were rejected. holding a unique four-digit code needed to tion. Morgunblaðið quotes the restaurant Giant Goldfish Caught Near Húsavík by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov activate the phones. Despite this, Baldurs- staff as saying they took action out of con- A goldfish, measuring 34 cm long and son believes it may prove difficult to ascer- cern for a group of children who were cel- weighing 850 grams, was caught just out- tain exactly who made what call, as “the ebrating a birthday party elsewhere in the side Húsavík early this month. According Monday, February 06, 2006 numbers can be traded or stolen.” Asked establishment. to Jón Sverrisson, a goldfish expert from Man Goes Berserk in Tanning Salon whether the guilty parties could expect to by Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson Reykjavík, this may very well be the largest Employees of the tanning salon Ibiza alerted have their sentences extended, he replied: goldfish ever caught in Iceland. Giant plastic police when one of their clients burst from “That’s not for us to decide, this is a sepa- castle still not found. his tanning booth naked and went berserk. rate case from whatever they were initially Tuesday, April 25, 2006 By Paul Fontaine-Nikolov According to Vísir, the man arrived with convicted for. It’s the job of the courts to Confused Man Apprehended Outside some friends and apparently fell asleep mete out punishment; we just enforce their Library while getting a tan. When his friends at- judgments.” There was a large police presence outside Tuesday, January 10, 2006 tempted to wake him, the man, who was by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov the National University Library of Iceland 300,000th Icelander Born having a nightmare, sprang from the tan- yesterday, after police were called to appre- Iceland’s population officially reached ning bed, threw a trash can at employees, hend a severely intoxicated man who was 300,000 yesterday morning with the birth knocked over displays of merchandise and Thursday, March 09, 2006 caught tampering with computer equip- of a boy, son to Erla María Andrésdóttir and ran out the front door. Police were called to Icelandic Consumers Happiest with ment. According to the police and eyewit- Haraldur Arnarson in Landspitali hospital. the scene and arrested the man. Soft Drink Companies ness accounts, it was not clear if the man According to Vísir, Prime Minister Halldór Ás- by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov According to the results of a survey from was attempting to steal the computer or if grímsson will be visiting the baby later today. IMG Gallup, Icelandic consumers are hap- he was simply fumbling about with it in a According to Statistics Iceland, there is one piest with soft drink companies, and least confused fashion. The man absconded soon Icelander born every two hours, while five Thursday, February 23, 2006 satisfied with mobile phone companies. after being asked to explain his actions, but Icelanders die every day. In addition, about Prisoners Stealing from Within Prison The survey polled about 8,500 people be- police canvassed the area and apprehended 3,700 Icelanders emigrated from Iceland in Four or five different inmates of Litla Hraun tween the ages of 15 and 75, divided into him minutes later. 2005, which is the highest number to leave prison are believed to have made fraudulent groups of 250 per company. The survey by Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson the country in many years. withdrawals totalling a combined 600,000 noted an overall drop in customer satisfac- by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov krónur, most of which has now been re- tion between 2004 and 2005, with 73.5% covered. The identity of the alleged culprits saying they were happiest with soft drink Wednesday, May 10, 2006 was discovered during the course of an in- companies. Coming in second were banks, Iceland Faces Eurovision Expulsion Friday, January 20, 2006 vestigation into the whereabouts of some with 71.6%, followed by insurance compa- The Icelandic entry for the Eurovision Song Skiing in the Dark Leads to Accidents funds that had gone missing from the bank nies, with 69.5%. Icelandic consumers were Contest, Silvía Nótt’s Congratulations Ice- Grétar Þórisson, manager of the Bláfjall ski account of a company in Reykjavík. least happy with “corner shops,” with 66%; land, has received an official complaint from slopes, told reporters that safety conditions The police investigation, which is now oil companies, with 64.2%; and least of all Svante Stockselius, the executive supervisor on the mountain were good, despite two said to be nearing completion, indicated with mobile phone companies, with 61.9% of the contest, for foul language. The lyrics accidents that happened on the slopes last that a series of phone calls were made from by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov to the song make use of the word “fuck”. night, one resulting in broken bones. Accord- the prison by inmates who apparently had The use of vulgarities is strictly forbidden ac- ing to Vísir.is, Þórisson explained that both all the personal identification and PIN num- cording to the rules of the contest and the accidents happened when it had already bers required to access the company’s ac- Monday, March 27, 2006 song is considered to be in violation of at grown dark, when accidents on the slopes counts. Erlendur Baldursson, a criminologist Morgunblaðið and Sunnlenska Frét- least two different rules. Iceland has been are most likely to occur. with the Department of Prison Services, told tablaðið Report a Series of Paranormal given an ultimatum, either comply with the by Paul Fontaine-Nikolov the Grapevine that such calls could have Incidents rules or face expulsion from the contest. been made from literally anywhere and the Morgunblaðið, following a lead from Sunn- So far, Silvía Nótt’s only response has been fact of the suspects’ incarceration was inci- lenska Fréttablaðið, has revealed that the through her website, where she maintains Friday, February 10, 2006 dental to the crime. “They all get access to Sólvangur farm in Eyrarbakki appears to be that she will “fucking say what [she] fuck- Name Committee’s New Picks a telephone at certain times. Most of them haunted by one or more ghosts. A young ing wants”. The Icelandic Name Committee has released use that opportunity to talk to their family woman, who moved into Sólvangur a few by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_NEWS/ BEST OF_17

Friday, June 02, 2006 ter the police reported what was suspected Hunters Run Afowl of the Law to be a mortally wounded man lying in a rock The Northeastern District Court has sen- slide beneath Háifoss waterfall. When police tenced a man to pay a fine of 20,000 ISK for arrived at the scene they found no man but illegally storing a variety of dead birds in his in fact a full-sized dummy. It is likely that the freezer. The published verdict notes that last human replica was used as a prop in a movie September police were notified of a cache last winter and somehow got lost and ended of firearms, toxic substances and explosives up floating in the river in Fossárdalur, but the that was said to be readily accessible to any- police had received no reports of such an in- one passing by. When officers arrived to in- cident before. After realising that no life was vestigate they discovered poisons, firearms, in danger, all rescue operations were recalled. ammunition, two demised owls, three stiff The Árnessýsla police could not inform Grape- falcons and a pair of ex-merlins. The verdict vine as to which film company the dummy further states that two men were questioned belonged, but told us that the dummy is cur- in relation to the find, but their stories were rently in storage at the police station and will convoluted and did not always match. Ac- be returned to its owners if claimed. cording to the least confusing version po- by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir lice were able to write down, the man who was convicted had originally been asked to store two dead falcons for a colleague of Monday, July 17, 2006 his father’s, but his collection of fowl that Company Sucks Band Into Lawsuit had shuffled off their mortal coil continued Nilfisk Advance, a Denmark-based cleaning to grow as he shot a merlin soon after. The equipment manufacturer, are threatening third falcon was said to have been discovered Icelandic rock band NilFisk with a lawsuit on deceased by the defendant in either 2002 or the grounds of copyright infringement, ac- 2003, and he claimed an unidentified third cording to Viðskiptablaðið. The band, whose man had given him an expired owl and a name was greenlighted by Nilfisk Advance in perished merlin around the same time. As Iceland when the band first chose their name, luck would have it he then ran over an owl dropped off a copy of their debut album at with his car last year, despite the fact that the the Copenhagen office while there to play bird is technically not present in the Icelandic concerts, only to receive a letter from Nilfisk ecosystem and only the occasional specimen Advance’s lawyers, who threatened to sue if winds up here by navigational error from the band did not change their name and re- time to time. According to the Icelandic Insti- called all CDs and merchandise with NilFisk’s tute of Natural History, the birds all appeared name on it. They were also commanded to to have kicked the bucket long ago and sub- close their website, nilfisk.valnir.com. In re- sequently kept frozen for several years. One sponse, the band and their lawyer sent an of the falcons was tagged by them soon be- explanation that they were on good terms fore his demise in 1996 or 1997. with Nilfisk Advance in Iceland, and that their by Gunnar Hrafn Jónsson name technically differs from that of Nilfisk advance in that the ‘F’ in the band’s name was capitalised. Although Nilfisk Advance company workers brought (and left behind) not all privately owned homes and busi- Friday, June 16, 2006 have not replied, and were unavailable for a case containing 30 sticks of dynamite. nesses took part, making the event not Man Feeds Decapitated Corpses To Dog comment due to their executives being on The employee told the Grapevine that be- quite so black as hoped. In an interview with Jóhannes Björnsson, a farmer who owns vacation, Sveinn of NilFisk told the Grapevine fore leaving the dynamite, the construction the Grapevine, Magnason said, “We might land in Flekkudalur by Meðalfellsvatn lake, that if Nilfisk Advance persist with the lawsuit, workers explained that they had discovered look at it as a dress rehearsal.” As for the has been feeding his dogs fly-ridden, raw the band will most likely change their name it while cleaning around the office. They fireworks Reykjavík residents may have seen horse flesh that has lain under the burning to NilFizk. Also unavailable for comment were claimed they were unsure as to where to or heard last night, they were unplanned, midday sun for days at a time. Although French hip-hop band Electroluxe Family and dispose of it, figuring the town dump the and perhaps served only to exacerbate the Chief Veterinary Officer Halldór Runólfsson country singer Hoover, who may themselves obvious choice. After confirming said explo- problem of light pollution created by those told Fréttablaðið that this was “highly unusu- face lawsuits if this fad continues. sives were indeed rogue dynamite, the bomb lights that were left for the half-hour dura- al,” Jóhannes told the Grapevine that letting by Sindri Eldon squad duly disposed of them. The dynamite tion of the event. Magnason does not view one’s dogs rip at the headless and bloody is believed to have been around 30 years old the incomplete blackness as an indication of carcasses of slaughtered stallions was done and thus highly volatile. Selfoss police offi- failure, however, stating that, “The idea has “practically everywhere.” Thursday, July 27, 2006 cials went on record as saying that dispos- been going all over the globe in newswires… “It’s not like I’m leaving the whole thing Nosebleed Delays Much Hyped Iceland ing of old explosives is a serious business and I’ve been talking to the BBC and PBS and in there to rot,” Jóhannes said. “I give them vs. Scotland Soccer Showdown those interested in doing so should consider it was in Italian papers… Lots and lots big about 25% of the horse – loin, calves, that Due to nose-related injuries incurred by for- contacting proper authorities beforehand. writing follow-up.” Magnason hopes that kind of thing. And it’s clean meat, taken mer múm member Gyða Valtýsdóttir on a by Haukur Magnússon if people enjoyed the event and would like from healthy animals. It would be like din- trampoline last night, the much hyped battle- to see it repeated, hopefully growing darker ing at a fine restaurant.” Although all would of-the-bands soccer match between Scottish with each effort, that they will express their seem to be in good order, the plot thickened Belle & Sebastian and Iceland’s own múm Tuesday, September 26, 2006 positive opinions to bolster his efforts to when the Grapevine discovered that the only has been rescheduled from this afternoon Björgólfur Officially Declared Most Suc- make the blackout an annual occurrence. other registered phone number in Flekku- for Sunday. The soccer tradition between the cessful Human Ever. Sorta Last night’s blackout signalled the beginning dalur belongs to a Pet Sematary – sorry, pet bands began three years ago with a match in In a striking turn of events that unfolded his of the 3rd annual Reykjavík International Film cemetery. Although they told the Grapevine Japan in which, after pushing into over time, Saturday, an article in one of Britain’s pre- Festival (RIFF). they “usually don’t bury anything larger than Belle & Sebastian took the Icelanders 10 to mier money mags, The Financial Times, de- by Virginia Zech a cat or a dog,” the Grapevine is determined 8. While the Icelandic team hopes to make a clared Icelandic banking tycoon Björgólfur to get to the bottom of this web of deceit. better showing for itself this year, Gyða told Þór Björgólfsson the sexiest billionaire alive. by Sindri Eldon the Grapevine, chance of victory seems slim Referencing his ‘big blue eyes’ and ‘pleas- Tuesday, December 19, 2006 considering that the team consists mainly ingly imposing Viking stature’, the magazine Snap Your Arms Say Yeah! of women, children and geeks. Apart from went on to recount his noble quest of restor- Akureyri’s parents and health officials have Thursday, July 13, 2006 the members of múm and B&S, this year’s ing his family name after a 1986 business voiced their concerns in recent days, as it All Hell Breaks Loose In Keflavík match, scheduled at a yet undisclosed loca- scandal involving his father. Björgólfsson seems like a new fad referred to as “snap- Two heavily intoxicated men embarked on tion, will include Emiliana Torrini, múm mem- has yet to comment on the accolades, but is ping arms” is threatening their children’s well a mad, destructive rampage in Keflavík last ber Kristín Valtýsdóttir’s twin sister Gyða and surely contemplating his next moves in a dia- being. In their print edition, Morgunblaðið night, vandalising two cars and picking fights nine-year-old brother Jónas, as well as the mond-studded, champagne-fuelled private reported that the fad found its legs this with a girl and a young man with glasses. bands’ various entourages. Daniel Bjarna- jet somewhere over the Atlantic. The NYU- fall with Akureyri’s teenagers and has been The boy’s glasses were savagely destroyed son, who will be playing for the múm team, educated, London-living Björgólfsson made steadily growing in popularity ever since. An when the two men punched him in the face. told the Grapevine that Torrini was originally his first millions co-founding Russia’s Bravo interview with school nurse Katrín Friðriks- It is unknown what exactly caused the men’s scheduled to play on the Icelandic side but brewery and now holds stakes in several of dóttir reveals that the fad entails kids loosen- overtly hostile behaviour to the boy, but gen- that they were now considering trading her Iceland’s biggest companies, including na- ing their arm muscles before slapping their eral geekdom and/or wussdom is likely to be over since she is half-Italian. Belle & Sebas- tional bank Landsbankinn and pharmaceuti- limbs out into the air, “as if slapping a wet the cause. In any case, the two men spent tian’s Icelandic tour begins tonight with a cal giant Actavis. He is currently the world’s towel,” causing their joints to make a sort the night in police custody. The Grapevine sold-out concert at NASA. On Saturday the 350th richest man. Sexy, to boot. of snapping sound. Harmless school fun it was shocked to discover that the would-be band will play a sold-out concert at Bræðslan by Haukur Magnússon seems, but there appears to be a darker side social commentators had been released. in Borgarfjörður Eystri, but reportedly hope to the phenomenon, as there are reports “We just let them go this morning,” Keflavík not to tire themselves out too much before of kids as young as nine years old suffering police told the Grapevine, prompting one to their match in Reykjavík the next morning. Friday, September 29, 2006 arm injuries as a result of the activity. It can ponder if the streets of Keflavík will ever be by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Planned Blackout Not So Black As reportedly cause joints to fall out of place, safe again, or if Keflavík even still exists, and Planned as well as bruising and swelling, in the long hasn’t been utterly destroyed by the time this Last night, 28 September 2006, Reykjavík ex- run even causing impairments. As for how goes into print. Wednesday, August 09, 2006 perienced the world’s first [known] planned the fad got popular, no one seems to know. by Sindri Eldon Improper Dynamite Dump Leads to blackout. The event marked the realisation of An unnamed young source apparently told Bomb Scare its architect, Andri Snær Magnason’s, dream Morgunblaðið’s reporter that “some famous Last Thursday, Selfoss police requested the to expose urban youth to the dark night skies guy” was the one who discovered the pleas- Monday, July 17, 2006 Icelandic Coast Guard’s bomb squad to the which have influenced culture around the ing nature of snapping ones arms, although False Alarm in Fossárdalur town’s municipal waste area, following calls world for millennia. The Reykjavík City Coun- his identity has yet to be confirmed. The police in Árnessýsla and a large rescue from a distraught employee who was left cil agreed to turn off all the city’s streetlamps by Haukur Magnússon team were called out at 20:00 last night af- in a state of shock after two construction to participate in the event. Unfortunately, 18_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_FEATURE/MUSIC/ALBUM OF THE YEAR

1

Reykjavík! Glacial Landscapes 27 “An incredibly fresh rock album that takes you in so many directions that it leaves you spinning.”

The Thirty Best Icelandic Albums of 2006

Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photos by Gulli

“I was quite pessimistic for the most part of the year, feeling debut albums, while two more count as sophomore releases. one band stood out. Apparently, Icelandic music journalists that most domestic releases were quite mediocre, but the Many of these artists have already garnered praise and atten- are to a man waiting for the fourth release from rock n’ roll last three months of the year have proven a real goldmine, tion from international publications. With that in mind, the giants Mínus. The album is in production, with the band hav- maybe even passing last year’s crop in quality. Narrowing the future of Icelandic music is looking bright indeed. All in all, it ing spent three weeks in November and December recording list down to only five albums was not an easy task at all,” said was a great year to be a music fan. in Los Angeles with producers Husky Hoskulds and Joe Bar- one of the many music journalists the Reykjavík Grapevine When conducting the poll, we also asked the panel to resi. Judging from their live performances last year -(two of contacted when selecting the best album of the year 2006. name their favourite concert of the year. Unsurprisingly, the their performances ranked high on our concert list, Airwaves The statement sums up the year in many ways, as a number highly anticipated and much discussed Sugarcubes reunion Kerrang! Night and the Mínus – Entombed ticket, both great of releases sailed under the radar. topped the list. A little more surprising was Roger Waters shows)- the fivesome is in a fantastic form. This could partially be explained by the fact that none of placing third. the giants of the Icelandic music scene released an album last We also asked critics what was the most anticipated re- But, without further ado, here are the thirty best Icelandic year. However, a number of promising artists released their lease of the year 2007. While Jakobínarína, I Adapt, and Ben- albums of 2006 ››› premiere effort. In fact, out of the top ten, six entries are ny Crespo’s Gang were repeatedly mentioned respectively, REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007 info. Grand Concert In Defence Of The Holy Right To Rock Good Company The Swinging Sixties No More Empty Walls Forgotten Lores Political Toys and Dramatic Doors Peter, Bjorn and John The Ultimate Calendar for Electronic En- thusiasts Food Reviews Bezt í heimi Counting in the New Year Across the Globe Music, Art, Films and Events Listings

(Jill Waterman) Bringing her New Year’s Eve project to Iceland B2_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events

Hafnarfjörður Theatre – 25 – 26 Jan.

Good Company

The newly founded physical-the- ing together in Holland. “The title, atre group Good Company will Vikings and Jews, is meant to re- premiere its first offspring at Haf- flect the stereotypical ideas people narfjörður Theatre, January 25. At try to pin on Icelanders on the one 20:00. Entitled Vikings and Jews, hand and Jews on the other,” Saga four different pieces will be per- Sigurðardóttir explains. “These two formed, including Strength through worlds are totally black and white. Embarrassment, a physical-theatre Me and Margrét Bjarnadóttir don’t piece addressing the absurdity re- have any experience of terrorism garding terrorism. All performanc- for example,” she continues. Tick- es are in English. ets can be bought at Hafnarfjörður The group consists of four girls, Theatre. The price is 2,000 ISK but Margrét Bjarnadóttir and Saga 1,200 ISK for students. Sigurðardóttir from Iceland and Anat Eisenberg and Noa Shadur Hafnarfjörður Theatre, from Israel, who met when study- Strandgata 8, Tel: 555 2222

Reykjavík Art Museum – 13 Jan. Grand Concert In Defence Of The Holy Right To Rock

Tónlistarþróunarmiðstöðin (“The TÞM’s plea (or the Grapevine’s in- Arnalds) and exciting unknowns Music Development Centre”), TÞM terview e-mails and calls regarding (Sudden Weather Change, et al). for short, is a remarkable resource the subject, for that matter) – per- Starting at 5 PM, one can expect for Reykjavík’s young bands, as haps we should thank them for it, the proceedings to build up to an National Museum of Iceland – 12 Jan. it grants them access to profes- as this is why we’re getting a free explosive climax as the night pro- sional rehearsal spaces (and an at- concert featuring some of Iceland’s gresses. The closing set by Reykja- tached concert venue) for a reason- best live acts. vík metal gods Changer is likely to The Swinging Sixties able monthly fee. This service has Conceived to raise awareness drain completely whatever energy proved essential in the three years of TÞM’s plea, the six-hour plus the crowd has left at that time. On January 12, a new photo ex- Couples danced the Twist and the since TÞM’s inception, especially “Stál í Stál” concert extravaganza A full line up is listed right here hibition will open at the National Beatles-band Hljómar were at their since Reykjavík’s prosperous mu- takes place in the enormous Reyk- on these pages. The concert is all- Museum of Iceland. Twins Kristján peak in popularity, surrounded by sic scene seems to breed bands at javík Art Museum - Hafnarhús ven- ages and admission free. So you Magnússon and Ingimundur Mag- screaming fans and crying school- bunny-like rates while available ga- ue in downtown Reykjavík, better really have no reason not to spend nússon display their work of pho- girls. The exhibition portrays these rages become scarcer by the year. known for hosting Airwaves head- the day acquainting yourself with a tos, all shot during the sixties, vibrant times in the local commu- Publicly funded in part, the private liners such as The Kaiser Chiefs. fine cause, and some of Iceland’s where teenagers, with beehive nity and its nostalgic moments. A enterprise has recently found itself A brief introduction of what goes best music. hairdos and chilled-out lifestyles are good opportunity to recollect old suffering from a lack of finances, on in TÞM and the artists working the subject. It was a decade when memories, or for the younger gen- and recently sent out an SOS in there is followed by a mass of half- Reykjavík Art Museum, teens spent their free time listening eration, understand the past. a last minute attempt to save the hour sets from long time favourites Hafnarhúsið, Tryggvagata 17, to music, obsessing about fash- operation from going under. City (I Adapt, My Summer as a Salvation Tel.: 590 1200 ion and hanging around on street The National Museum of Iceland, officials and their ilk apparently Soldier), chart-toppers (Lay Low), corners or in the neighbourhood Suðurgata 41, www.natmus.is haven’t seen reason to respond to up and comers (Rökkurró, Ólafur kiosks to meet other frisky teens.

If you would like to be included 12.01 Grapevine Party. FM Belfast and Hagatorg Sat 27.01 DJ Alfons X weekdays, Sirkus’s veteran techno DJs in the Grapevine listings, free of Terrordisco. Starts at 21:00. Thu 18.01 The Icelandic Symphony Kaffi Hljómalind keep the party going until morning at charge, contact the Grapevine by Café Rósenberg Orchestra: Bartok & Brukner Fri 12.01 Disconvenience from weekends. email at [email protected]. Lækjargata 2 Thu 25.01 The Icelandic Symphony Sweden, along with Morðingjarnir, Fri 12.01 Sirkus DJ A true jazz club featuring live gigs with Orchestra: Dark Music Days The Best Hardcore Band in the World Sat 13.01 DJ Jón Atli Music some of Iceland’s finest jazzists almost Hressó and Deathmetal Superscuad. Starts at Thu 18.01 DJ Ívar Árni Bar 11 every night of the week. Austurstræti 20 19:00. Fri 19.01 DJ Árni Sveins Laugavegur 11 Fri 12.01 Krummafótur playing Here, troubadours play sing-along Nasa Sat 20.01 Sirkus DJ A popular hangout for Reykjavík’s djangojazz hitters until midnight followed by DJs Thorvaldsenstræti 2 Thu 25.01 Sirkus DJ rockers and their young idolaters with Sat 13.01 Gítarpakkið djangojamm playing whatever the crowd is aching Sat 27.01 Peter, Bjorn and John in Fri 26.01 Sirkus DJ DJ’s playing classic rock‘n’roll hitters. Thu 18.01 Siggi Sig. and Bjöggi Gísla for at the moment. concert Sat 27.01 DJ Árni Sveins Fri 12.01 DJ Óli Dóri bluesnight Fri 12.01 Helgi Valur troubadour Sat 03.02 Flex Music presents DJ duo Stúdentakjallarinn Sat 13.01 DJ Gulli Ósóma Fri 19.01 Helgi Valur troubadour followed by DJ Jhonny S.O.S Hringbraut Fri 19.01 Grapevine gig: Mammút and Sat 20.01 Helgi Valur troubadour Sat 13.01 Touch in concert followed by Prikið The University students’ former Slugs followed by DJ Gulli Ósóma Thu 25.01 Sviðin jörð play melancholic DJ Jhonny Bankastræti 12 hangout spot, now a diverse concert Sat 20.01 DJ Óli Dóri country Fri 19.01 Menn ársins in concert This old coffeehouse turns into a venue, attracting, still, a lot of Fri 26.01 DJ Óli Dóri Fri 26.01 Andri Þór + Jazzband followed by DJ Maggi hip-hop mania at weekends where students. Sat 27.01 DJ Gulli Ósóma Sat 27.01 Mímósa djangojazzband in Sat 20.01 Gotti and Eisi followed by DJ not only DJs but also drummers Fri 12.01 Evil Madness, Fabrizio Fri 02.02 DJ Palli MAus concert Jhonny and bassists create a crasy pit at the Modenese Palumbo and Paul Sat 03.02 DJ Gulli Ósóma Gaukurinn Fri 26.01 Touch in concert followed by dancefloor. Beahchamp Broadway Tryggvagata 22 DJ Maggi Fri 12.01 Friskó followed by DJ Gísli Sat 13.01 Forgotten Lores, Bent and Ármúli 9 Fri 19.01 Party Zone presents: Booka Sat 27.01 Pub-lic in concert followed Galdur Dóri DNA in concert 13.01 Dr. Mister and Mr. Handsome Shade, Hairdoctor, FM Belfast, Jack by DJ Maggi Sat 13.01 Kacoon and DJ B-Ruff Thu 18.01 Touch in concert final show. Starts at 23:00. Schidt DJ set, Djuna Barnes DJ set, Kaffibarinn Wed 17.01 DJ Kári Thu 25.01 Nyhil Poetry Night Café Amsterdam Darren C DJ set and more. Bergstaðastræti 1 Thu 18.01 DJ Gísli Galdur Vegamót Hafnarstræti 5 Reykjavík Art Museum With a mixture of techno, reggae, hip- Fri 19.01 Franz and Kristó followed by Vegamótarstígur 4 Fri 12.01 10:30 Noise and Coburn with Tryggvagata 17 hop and classic dance hitters, the DJs DJ Playmobile A weekly anticipation for its trendy guests, DJ master 13.01 TÞM Megaconcerts, open for are usually capable of crowding the Sat 20.01 DJ Andri and DJ Gunni Stef. clientele, always dressed for the Sat 13.01 DJ Master all ages: Rökkurró, Ólafur Arnalds, dance floor each weekend and getting Wed 24.01 DJ Kvikindi occasion, the party starts at midnight Thu 18.01 Grapevine gig: Mammút Lay Low, Mongo Lidoz,Kannski the regulars frisky at weekdays. Thu 25.01 DJ Gulli Ósóma and ends early in the morning. and Slugs NEi, kannski Já?, Sudden Weather Fri 12.01 DJ Jón Atli Fri 26.01 Friskó followed by DJ Danni Fri 12.01 DJ Anna Rakel and Hjalti Fri 19.01 Perfect Disorder + Guests Change, Who Knew, South Coast Sat 13.01 Don Balli Funk Deluxe Sat 13.01 DJ Kári followed by DJ Fúsi Killing Company, Transsexual Daycare, Wed 17.01 Don Balli Funk Sat 27.01 DJ Gulli, Bloodgroup in Fri 19.01 Vegamót DJ Sat 20.01 DJ Fúsi My Summer as a Salvation Soldier, Thu 18.01 DJ Pétur concert and DJ B-Ruff Sat 20.01 Vegamót DJ Fri 26.01Party Atómstöðin, Benny Crespo´s Gang, I Fri 19.01 DJ Árni Sveins Wed 31.01 DJ Kocoon Fri 26.01 Vegamót DJ Sat 27.01 Party Adapt, Severed Croth and Changer. Sat 20.01 DJ Jón Atli Sirkus Sat 27.01 Vegamót DJ Café Cultura Introductions about TÞM at 16:30, Wed 24.01 DJ Pétur Klapparstígur 30 Hverfisgata 18 concerts from 17-22:30. Thu 25.01 DJ Jón Atli Playing reggae, country and usually Art Music from the world’s four corners. Háskólabíó Fri 26.01 Don Balli Funk hosting at least one live gig at 101 Gallery Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_LISTINGS_B3

The Nordic House and Reykjavík City Library

No More Empty Walls

There are two places to go if your for the sign “Artotek” before you apartment walls and wallet are start taking pictures down from empty. First, the Nordic House li- the wall though. The City Library brary in Reykjavik. The library lends in Reykjavik, in cooperation with out three artworks free of charge the Association of Icelandic Visual for up to three months at a time. All Artists, SIM, has chosen about 250 that is needed is a library card and artworks from modern Icelandic a kennitala, the personal identifica- artists to be lent out, and maybe tion number. Well known graphic eventually sold. If the picture cost artists from all Nordic countries 30 000 ISK, you can pay a monthly are represented in their big collec- fee at 1000 ISK, and the money tion. When the three months have goes directly to the artist. After passed, return the pictures and se- 30 payments this painting is yours. lect new ones. It can be an ongo- EMF ing exhibition in your home. Another option is to go down Reykjavik City Library, Tryggvagata 15 to the city library in Reykjavik. Look The Nordic House, Sturlugötu 5.

ASÍ Art Museum Political Toys and Dramatic Doors

ASÍ Art Museum opened two new toy is named the killing doll, with place most Icelanders have stepped contemporary art exhibitions last which children can have fun by fry- a foot into, when they were born, weekend. In Ásmundasalur show- ing prisoners in the electric chair. died, injured or sick and that peo- room, Jóhann Ludwig Torfason, a They can even collect a whole gang ple have both joyful and painful respected digital artist, displays his of crooks and exterminate it. With memories about the large building. paintings of fictionalised toys, de- all sorts of political messages like Helgason decided to document 63 signed for, what he likes to call, the these, Torfason is trying to answer doors in the hospital, doors that The Student Basement – 13 Jan. conscious young generation. En- questions regarding human ex- guests, patients and staff mem- titled New Toys, the exhibition con- istence, and it has to be said that bers walk in and out of over and sists of digital dolls with all kinds his presentation is both critical and over again. Since its construction Forgotten Lores of entertainment purposes. His thought provoking and makes you in 1930, the hospital has changed, approach to the subject is strongly wonder where the world is head- grown and developed. With the No one should be betrayed by a turntables and Byrkir, Class B and political, whether it’s gender roles, ing. exhibition, which consists of video Forgotten Lores concert. After re- Diddi Fel on the mics, the fivesome diseases, ethnic provinciality, fam- Artist Hlynur Helgason, takes clips, photos, paintings and draw- leasing their second album, Frá almost without exception gets the ine, violence, fashion conscious- on a different task in his project 63 ings, Helgason hopes to capture heimsenda, last month, playing a crowd grooving the minute the un- ness or the short human life, as can Doors of Landspítalinn University the change as well as the diverse- top-notch release concert shortly crowned Icelandic hip-hop kings be seen in the photo above. Tor- Hospital at Hringbraut, where he ness. after, the hip-hop group invades jump onstage. Definitely a concert fason is not only concerned about interprets the hospital’s history in the Student Basement, January worth checking out. Icelandic consumer society though. photos and movie clips of 63 dif- ASÍ Art Museum, 13, along with hip-hop friends He also addresses issues that do ferent entrance doors. In explain- Freyjugata 41, Tel.: 511 5353. Bent and Dóri DNA. With Addi The Student Basement, Hringbraut, not touch locals in a direct way, like ing the idea, he says that the Land- Intro and Benni B-Ruff behind the Tel.: 511 0905 the death penalty for example. One spítalinn University Hospital is a

Hverfisgata 18 Tue.-Sat. 13-17 Art Academy Fríkirkjuvegur Tryggvagata 17 Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment www.animagalleri.is Hún og Hún Gallery Tue.-Sun. 11-17 Open daily 10-17 www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Gallery Fold Skólavörðustígur 17b Free Entrance Until 21 Jan Artótek Rauðarárstígur 14-16 i8 Gallery listasafn.is Uncertain States of America Tryggvagata 15 Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Klapparstígur 33 15 Dec – 25 Feb American contemporary art by 45 Mon. 10-21, Tue.-Thu. 10-19, Fri. 11- Sat. 11-16 Tue.-Fri. 11-17 Un Regard Fauve young artists 19, Sat. and Sun. 13-17 Sun. 14-16 Sat. and by appointment 13-17 French Expressionism Reykjavík Art Museum www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek www.myndlist.is www.i8.is The National Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir Until 18 Feb Gallerí Sævars Karls Icelandic Labour Union’s Suðurgata 41 Flókagata Guðrún Öyahals exhibition Bankastræti 7 Art Gallery Open daily 10-17 Closed in January Aurum Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Freyjugata 41 natmus.is/ Reykjavík Museum Bankastræti 4 Sat. 10-16 Tue.-Sun. 13-17 Until 29 Apr Kistuhylur 4 Mon.-Fri. 10-18 www.saevarkarl.is Free Entrance With a Silverneedle www.arbaejarsafn.is Sat. 11-16 Gallery Tukt From 6 Jan Elsa E. Guðjónsson textile designer The Reykjavík Museum The Einar Jónsson Museum Pósthússtræti 3-5 Ný leikföng/New Toys Until 12 Mar of Photography Eiríksgata www.hitthusid.is Jóhann Ludwig Torfason exhibition Guðni Þórðarson photo exhibition Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Gallery Turpentine From 6 Jan Ingimundur Magnússon and Kristján Weekdays 12-19 www.skulptur.is Ingólfsstræti 5 63 doors of Landspítalinn Magnússon photo exhibit Sat.-Sun. 13-17 Permanent exhibition Tue.-Fri. 12-18 Hlynur Helgason photo exhibit Permanent Exhibitions: Free Entrance Work of sculptor Einar Jónsson Sat. 11-16 Kling & Bang Gallery The Making of a Nation www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is The Culture House www.turpentine.is Laugavegur 23 The Nordic House Until 28 Jan Hverfisgata 15 Halla Gunnarsdóttir exhibition Thu.-Sun. 14-18 Sturlugata 5 Analog - Dialog Open daily 11-17 Gel Gallerí Free Entrance Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Mogens S. Koch www.thjodmenning.is Hverfisgata 37 www.this.is/klingandbang www.nordice.is/ 11 Jan – 20 Feb Until 27 Feb Mon.-Fri. 10-19 22 Dec – 28 Jan Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 : The Settle- Sissú photo exhibit Icelandic Fashion 2006 Sat. 10-17 Twilight Zone - Kling & Bang’s Christ- ment Exhibition Safn Permanent Exhibits From 6 Jan. mas show Aðalstræti 16 Laugavegur 37 Medieval Manuscripts; The National Toggi exhibition Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir, Daníel Björns- Open daily 10-17 Wed.-Fri. 14-18 Museum- as it was; The Library Room Gerðuberg Cultural Centre son, Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir and sirra Reykjavík Art Museum Sat.-Sun. 14-17 Dwarf Gallery Gerðuberg 3-5 Sigrón Sigurðardóttir – Ásmundur Sveinsson Free Entrance Grundarstígur 21 Mon.-Thu. 11-17 Living Art Museum Sculpture Museum www.safn.is Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat. 18-20 Wed. 11-21 Laugavegur 26 Sigtún Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum this.is/birta Thu.-Fri. 11-17 Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 Open daily 10-16 Laugarnestangi 70 Gallery 100 Degrees Sun-Sat. 13-16 Thur 13-22 Admission ticket is valid on the same Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Bæjarháls 1 www.gerduberg.is www.nylo.is/ day Permanent exhibition Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 Gyllinhæð 13 Jan – 31 Jan for all three museums. Work of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 Laugavegur 23 Still Drinking About You www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Gallery Anima Thu.-Sun. 14-18 Kolbeinn Hugi Höskuldsson exhibition Reykjavík Art Museum >>>OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Ingólfsstræti 8 Students from the second year of the The National Gallery – Hafnarhús Hveragerði Library B4_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events

Nasa – 27 Jan.

Peter, Bjorn and John

The Swedish indiepop trio Peter, Bjorn and John plays Nasa, January 27 at 21:00. Named after its three members, the band, formed in 2000, released its self titled debut in 2002 followed by Falling Out in 2004 and their highly praised latest album, Writer’s Block, last year, where they for the first time join forces as songwriters and lead singers. This edgy and experimental album has received glowing reviews, and is, according to many critics, one of the best pop albums of last year. Everyone caught one to the catchy summer-hitter Young Folks, (It’s the whistle song), a song that finally familiarized Icelanders with the group, as it has been echoing in the heads of every other one for the past months. And the hype only continues. PB & J’s perky melodies and singalong songs with all the proper amount of maraca, harmonica, bongo drums and of course the whistle, fans can expect some craziness by the end of the month. Opening acts are Pétur Ben and Sprengjuhöllinn. Price for a ticket is 2.500 ISK and available from midi.is, nasa.is, Skífan and BT. Nasa, Thorvaldsenstræti 2, Tel.: 511 1313.

Austurmörk 2, Hveragerði count retailer, played by ultra-blondy inevitable apocalypse as women have Starring Samuel L. Jackson, Jessica Malle’s 1987 masterpiece Au Revoir, Mon.-Fri. 15-19 Jessica Simpson. To get the girl, the become infertile and no child has been Biel, 50 Cent and Brian Presley as Les Enfants. Set in France during Skaftfell boy has to become the employee of born for 18 years. Sambíóin Álfabakka, four US soldiers in Iraq, anxious to WWII, the movie tells the tale of a Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður the month! Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin Háskólabíó, Kringlubíó. get home, after completing one last young student in a French boarding www.skaftfell.is Álfabakka, Nýja Bíó Keflavík. Infamous mission that will change their lives. school who befriends a Jewish student 2 Dec – 20 Jan 2007 Stranger than Fiction Gay writer Truman Capote earns the (January 26) who is hiding from the Nazis. Haraldur Jónsson exhibition An author, played by Emma Thomp- trust of rich New York women and Dreamgirls The National Film Archive of Iceland, Hafnarborg son, is writing her latest novel. The enjoys living the fancy Manhattan Beyoncé Knowles, Eddie Murphy and Hvaleyrarbraut 13, starts at 20:00. Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður story takes a sudden twist when she lifestyle until a mysterious murder Jamie Foxx, in a 1960s-style adapta- Humanitarian Law and War on Mon.-Sun. 11-17 finds out her fictional character, Har- changes everything. But beware, a tion of a popular Broadway musical. Terror www.hafnarborg.is old Crick, an IRS agent played by Will little more of Sandra Bullock than (February 2) 19.01 Reykjavík University and the 11 Jan – 4 Feb Ferrell, is as real as one man gets. Crick might be recommended. (January 12) Perfume: The Story of a Mur- Icelandic Human Rights Centre invite Faroese Paintings of course panics when realising he is The Black Dahlia derer all interested to attend a lunch lecture Edward Fuglø, Astri Luihn, Sigrún Gun- the centre of the narration. Sambíóin Directed by Brian De Palma and Tom Tykwer takes on the tough task in room 101 at Reykjavík University, narsdóttir, Torbjørn Olsen, Eyðun av Álfabakka, Sambíóin Kringlunni, Nýja inspired by the notorious murder of of filming the best-selling novel by January 19. Reyni and Ingálvur av Reyni Bíó Akureyri. young actress Elizabeth Short, the German author Patrick Suskind, Das John P. Cerone, an associate profes- Suðsuðvestur Little Miss Sunshine film, set in the 1940s, follows two LA Perfume. Starring Ben Whishaw as sor at New England School of Law Hafnargata 22, Keflavík Pure brilliance! A low-budget inde- cops who get mixed up in corruption the young killing perfumer Jean-Bap- in Boston and Director of Center for Thu.-Fri. 16-18 pendent movie the likes of Sideways, and misdeeds when trying to solve the tiste Grenouille who was born with a International Law and Policy will talk Sat.-Sun. 14-17 about a highly dysfunctional American mystery. (January 12) unique olfactory sense, the movie, set about recent developments in the www.sudsudvestur.is family travelling across the country in The Prestige in 18th century Paris, follows the story application of humanitarian law in US DaLí gallerí a yellow mini-bus to get the youngest A flick on the battle between two of Grenouille, and his search for the courts in the context of the ‘war on Brekkugata 9, Akureyri daughter to a beauty pageant. One of magicians whose rivalry leads to a perfect perfume. (2 February) terror’. Mon.-Sat. 14-18 the more interesting films of last year. dangerous obsession with the ultimate Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 Reykjavík University, Ofanleiti 2, starts Gallerí+ Smárabíó, Regnboginn. last trick. Starring Christian Bale, Hugh 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 at 12:00. Brekkugata 35, Akureyri Happy Feet Jackman and Scarlett Johansson. Sambíóin, Álfabakka 8 Vikings and Jews 6 Jan – 22 Jan Singing penguins plus a tap-danc- (January 12) 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 25.01 and 26.01 Good Company’s Joris Rademaker exhibition ing penguin chick, who becomes an Trust the Man Smárabíó, Smáralind performance of four physical-theatre Jónas Viðar Gallery outcast from penguin society due to A romantic comedy about relation- 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 pieces at Hafnarfjörður Theatre. Akureyri his off-key voice. Sambíóin Álfabakka, ships falling to pieces starring David Háskólabíó, Hagatorgi Hafnarfjörður Theatre, Strandgata 8, Fri.-Sat. 13-18 Sambíóin Kringlunni, Háskólabíó, Nýja Duchovny, Billy Crudup, Julianne 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 starts at 20:00. Akureyri Art Museum Bíó Akureyri, Nýja Bíó Keflavík. Moore and Maggie Gyllenhaal as Kringlubíó, Kringlunni 4-12 The Icelandic Music Awards Kaupvangsstræti 12 Tenacious D couples in big trouble. (January 12) 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 31.01 The annual Icelandic Music Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Jack Black’s new real-life movie is said Breaking and Entering Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 awards will be given out at a grand www.listasafn.akureyri.is to be the greatest cinematic piece of Set in London’s King’s Cross, this dra- 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 ceremony taking place at the Reykjavík From 13 Jan our time (according to him at least). ma deals with the life of a landscape Laugarásbíó, Laugarási City Theatre on January 31. Also Adam Bateman exhibition Two dudes, played by Black and Kyle architect, played by Jude Law, who 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 broadcast live at RUV. Gass, in an epic mission of becom- gets pulled into a world of crime and Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorgi Reykjavík City Theatre, Listabraut 3, ing the greatest rock stars ever. What poverty after a break-in at his trendy 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 starts at 20:00. could possibly go wrong? Regnboginn, firm. (January 19) Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 Tango at Iðnó Theatre Laugarásbíó, Borgarbíó. Blood Diamond 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 06.02 Every first Tuesday each winter Flags of Our Fathers In the middle of a bloody civil war in month, teachers Þórdís and Daði show www.gljufrasteinn.is Clint Eastwood’s newest blockbuster Sierra Leone, the lives of a local fisher- Events guests how to dance the Tango, step- tells the story of five Marines in the man, American journalist and a South Cooperation in Environmental by-step. Films battle for the island Iwo Jima in the African smuggler intersect as they Policy: A Spatial Approach Iðnó Theatre, Vonarstræti 3, starts at Köld Slóð Second World War. A typical Hol- take on a dangerous journey to find a 12.01 Professor Ronald Davies lectures 20:00. An Icelandic thriller about detective lywood war movie with all the proper cursed diamond everyone cherishes. about inefficient competition in emis- Choreographic Workshop by Baldur, played by Þröstur Leó Gunnars- bombings and special effects overload. (January 26) sions taxes. Room 101 at Oddi, open Steve Lorenz son, who finds himself in a risky chase Sambíóin Álfabakka, Háskólabíó, Nýja Charlotte’s Web for all. 24.01 The Icelandic Dance Company when investigating the death of a man Bíó Akureyri, Nýja Bíó Keflavík. Wilbur the pig gets friendly with other The University of Iceland, Oddi, Dun- presents: Dancer and choreographer near an isolated dam site. Smárabíó, Children of Men farm animals and a talking spider hagi 5, starts at 12:15. Steve Lorenz premieres his work in Regnboginn, Háskólabíó, Borgarbíó. From the Mexican director Alfonso named Charlotte who helps him await Au Revoir, Les Enfants by Louis progress in Reykjavík City Theatre, Employee of the Month Cuarón, starring Clive Owen, Julianne the destiny of becoming the Sunday Malle January 24. Tickets are sold at the From the producers of Wedding Crash- Moore and Michael Caine comes a dinner. Based on the popular children’s 13.01 The National Film Archive of entrance. ers, this comic dwells on a box boy dystopia, set in 2027, which centres on book. (January 26) Iceland in Hafnarfjörður continues its Reykjavík City Theatre, Listabraut 3, chasing after the cashier in a bulk-dis- the quest to save humankind from an Home of the Brave screening of old classics with Louis starts at 20:00 Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_LISTINGS_B5

12 tónar The Ultimate Calendar for Electronic Enthusiasts

If we could still be recommending posing as Mr. June, the legendary Christmas gift purchases in Janu- party-group GusGus representing ary, the 12 Tónar music calendar July and soloist Unsound, surround- for 2007 would surely have been ed by a stack of old vinyl’s, bringing on top of the list. Not only does the the Christmas spirit in December. calendar tell you all the essentials In addition to these models, the on how the days pass by, it also fea- calendar also includes Ghostigital, tures 12 extremely cool pictures of Hildur Guðnadóttir, múm, Hairdoc- local electronic musicians in various tor, Stilluppsteypa, Mr. Silla, Kira settings and different ambience. Kira, Biogen and Borkó. The record store and indepen- Photographer Bjarni Grímsson dent music label 12 Tónar is re- and art director and stylist, Hrafn- sponsible for releasing the calen- hildur Hólmgeirsdóttir, put endless dar. Last year’s, 12 Tónar calendar hours of work into capturing the was dedicated to bassists, so as to different styles of each musician. equalize their share in the music Some dressed up in crazy costumes, scene. As that concept was a huge others representing their dark side success, it was inevitable to make by sitting in a pile of bloody bones, it an annual project, and keep on the pictures are both ambitious promoting local musicians in an in- and creative and make the calendar novative way. This year, electronic a stylish decoration on any wall. musicians, who have been promi- Graphic designer Gunnar Þorvalds- nent in Iceland’s music scene, got son handled all the artwork. to strike a pose and represent all 12 Only 2000 copies are available months of the year 2007. and can be bought at the 12 Tónar The energetic Icelandic electronic record store at Skólavörðustígur 15, scene supplied plentiful photoge- for 650 ISK. That’s only 54 ISK per nic options. We have Johnny Sexual month! SJ

GRA ENTSThe Reykjavík Grapevine presents VINE GRA PRESENTSMammút and Slugs LIVE AT: RAPEVINEThursday GRA January 18th at 21:00 SENTSCafé PRESENTS Amsterdam, Hafnarstræti 5 INE FridayGRAPEVINE January GRA 19th at 23:00 S PRESENTSBar 11, Laugavegur PRESENTS 11 APEVINE GRAPEVINE GRA SENTS PRESENTS PRESENTS

NEPRESENTS GRAPEVINENEPRESENTS GRAPEVINENE PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINENE PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINENE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE GRANE PRESENTS PRESENTSPRESENTS GRAPEVINE GRAPEVIN GRANE PRESEN PRESENPRESE GRAP GRA GRANE PR P CAFÉS 1 8 Tíu Dropar 15 Café Victor 22 Pravda 25 Ölstofan 28 Kaffibrennslan Café Roma oaj]d]kk Laugavegur 27 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Austurstræti 22 Vegamótastígur Pósthusstræti 9 f]logjc Laugavegur A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Spelled with a C rather than the Icelan- Pravda is one of the biggest clubs/bars in Ölstofan is an unpretentious, comfort- Café, bistro, restaurant, bar – whatever terranean, as all traditional coffee shops dic K, presumably in an effort to seem downtown Reykjavík, situated in one of able and straightforward place to relax. you want to call it, Kaffibrennslan is a Roma, at the far end of the main street should be, and this place makes you feel more cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to the more ideal locations for such an in- It’s also known as a hangout for the ‘in- consistently pleasant place to go for Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house warm, both with its atmosphere and the be working, as the bar has become a stitution in the city. It’s divided between tellectual’ circles of Reykjavík, as well as snacks and refreshments of whatever offering a variety of breads, soup and generosity of the coffee refills. hangout for older foreigners. The Viking two floors, although the distinction some media types, the opposite of ‘intel- variety you happen to crave. They also tempting cookies, cakes and other sweet ship sitting on top of the building might between the ambiance on the top and lectual’ in this country. Music is almost have the largest selection of beers in things. Their specials around lunch time also add to the appeal. The crowd is very bottom floors has faded away in recent never played at Ölstofan – so you can Reykjavík. We recommend the Cobra are always a bargain. mixed, both in origin and age, and so is times. actually have a conversation. and Staroprammen. the music.

2 Ráðhúskaffi 9 Kaffitár 16 Vegamót 23 Café Cultura 26 Deco 29 Glaumbar City Hall Bankastræti 8 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 12 Tryggvagata 20 Ráðhúskaffi, situated inside the Reykja- This is the downtown store of one of the Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing The trendy Café Cultura is located in the Located in a former drugstore, Deco is an Partly a sports bar, Glaumbar is also a vík City Hall, is a comfortable choice for country’s finest coffee importers, and the lunch menu, they serve brunch during same building as the Intercultural Centre, upper-middle priced bar/bistro catering popular venue for live bands and DJs, but the view over Tjörnin (the pond). It’s es- quality of the product is as excellent as the weekends, and the kitchen is open and has a distinct international flavour. A to those who prefer elegant surround- mostly it’s just a good place to get drunk pecially convenient on Iceland’s so-called you would expect. While anything here until 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes good-value menu, friendly service and ings. A good choice for a light lunch or and party. They can host private gath- ‘window weather’ days – the days that is good, the speciality coffee drinks are on, and you can check the end results in settings that allow you to either sit down an afternoon glass of red vine. Features erings before midnight on weekdays, are only beautiful if you stay indoors. truly remarkable: our favourite, the Az- photos published the day after on their and carry on discussions, or dance the an above average whiskey selection. and you would be hard pressed to get Coffee, light snacks, art exhibitions, In- teca, an espresso drink with lime and website www.vegamot.is. If you like Oli- night away. a better deal on a keg party than here. ternet access, a topographic model of Tabasco. ver, try Vegamót and vice versa. Iceland and municipal politics: all conve- niently under the same roof.

3 Grái Kötturinn 10 Segafredo 17 B5 Hverfisgata 16a By Lækjartorg Bankastræti 5 Grái Kötturinn (the grey cat) is a cosy Italian coffee chain Segafredo seems to B5 is a bistro with a Scandinavian focus 41 place that’s especially popular during be doing brisk business by Lækjartorg, on the menu. Don’t be fooled by the im- the morning hours. Their breakfast is with locals and tourists alike flocking to pressive collection of design classics that Hafnarstræti legendary, but they tend not to be open sip their espressos at the conveniently you see in the window when passing by 44 later in the day. A great place to nurse a placed tables outside. The staff are ex- – it’s neither cold nor overly expensive, 45 33 hangover, or just to start the workday. pert baristi, and, even though Iceland is but rather a cosy place with friendly ser- Austurstræti 46 42 proud of its coffee, nobody quite tops vice. 39 10 the Segafredo latte. 26 6 21 22 28 18 49 Bankas17 Ingólfsstræti 43 træ BARS 'N' BISTROS ti 11 3 4 Kaffi Hljómalind 11 18 Rósenberg 23 Laugavegur 21 Sólon Lækjargata 2 Lækjargata 9 Despite hosting the occasional rock con- Bankastræti 7a Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club 24 20 Hverfisgata Laugavegur19 cert, Kaffi Hljómalind is a peaceful café Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Satur- in town, here old instruments line the with perfect windows for people watch- day nights, but during the daytime it’s a walls. People go there for conversation 5 14 ing and a lot of daylight. It’s run by a café/bistro. On weeknights they’re a res- and to listen to music rather than dance. Skólavörðustígur non-profit organisation and only serves taurant with a decent menu as well, and The place tends to have jazz- or blues- SPOT THIS: Boston 13 16 tígur 8 organic & fair-trade products. It’s strictly an art exhibition on the walls to finish type music, and is developing a blue- a non-smoking establishment. grass scene. Laugavegur 28b, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 517 7816 25 the package. 48 Opening its doors on New Year’s Eve, Bos- chilled-out music makes the place a comfy ton is a fresh addition to the Reykjavík bar café as well as a laid-back tavern. Klappars 30 scene. Old-school yet stylish interiors, and Open until 1am on weekdays and 3am enough tables to create a good vibe, the on weekends.

5 Mokka 12 Litli Ljóti 19 Grand Rokk 38 47 Skólavörðustígur 3a Andarunginn Smiðjustígur 6 32 Kaffi Mokka is one of the oldest cafés in Lækjargata 6b As the Viking-style garden and logo Reykjavík, dating back to the 1950s. Fa- Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, accurately signal, this hardcore chess 31 mous for their dark, smoky atmosphere, this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine hangout is no place for the weak. Yes, loyal clientele and some of the best waf- place to sit down and relax with a latté chess bars are that tough in Iceland. 37 29 fles in town. or some beer when suffering from a case Even if the downstairs atmosphere can 27 of severe hipster-burn. feel a bit ominous at times, it’s one of the best venues for live music in town. 15 If you speak Icelandic you can also take Austurstræti part in the pub quiz on Fridays at 17:30. Bankastræ Ingólfsstræti Participation is free and the winner walks ti Hverfisgata away with a case of beer! 40 12 SkólavörðustígurLaugav 2 36 Lækjargata egur 6 Ömmukaffi 13 Kaffibarinn 20 Bar 11 35 Austurstræti Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 43 4 The name literally means “grandma’s Kaffibarinn has a reputation as a hang- While the place is only open on the Tjarnargata 34 coffee shop,” but here you can find out for artists and others who think they weekends, Bar 11 is a popular rock bar Þingholtsstræti people of all ages and all nationalities. It are hip. Friday and Saturday nights serve on Laugavegur and one of the main late- 7 Bergstaðastræti has a very friendly, down-to-earth feel to as the weekly peaks of claustrophobia, night party venues in town. You’ll feel Frakkastígur it. Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and while weekdays and afternoons can be the floor jumping every Friday and Sat- the lunch menu. Try their speciality, the comfortable, if banal. urday, and it’s neither you nor an earth- Óðinsgata South African latte. quake. Live concerts and a nice foosball 1 table upstairs. Barónsstígur

7 Babalú 14 Sirkus 21 Hressó 24 Prikið 27 Kaffi Amsterdam 30 Dillon Skólavörðustígur 22a Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 5 Laugavegur 30 One of the youngest coffeehouses in Of absolutely no relation to the trashy The celebrated site of one of the more Prikið has changed noticeably in charac- Kaffi Amsterdam is a cosy tavern lo- Legendary Icelandic rockers have been Reykjavík is also the homiest. Almost like culture guide, or trashy TV station that famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ ter in recent years, as it used to be an cated in the centre of Reykjavik. Known known to DJ at this place from time to a living room away from home, Babalú stole its name, Sirkus is worshipped like café/bistro brings a European flair to the old-fashioned and traditional downtown mostly for its rambling late-hour drinking time, and Þröstur from Mínus has even keeps it simple, quiet and cosy with cof- few other locales in Iceland. Elements of city. That is until about 11, when things coffeehouse. Somehow the younger crowd, Amsterdam recently established tended the bar. You can pretty much guar- fee and the occasional crêpe. the odd and alternative cultural institu- get to rockin’, and you can see the true crowd caught on and transformed the itself as a fresh new venue for the city’s antee this place will be rocking any time tion include an upstairs that looks and character of Reykjavík. place to its present form: a diner during music talent. you walk in on a Friday or Saturday night. smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market the day and a rowdy nightclub on week- and a queue on weekend nights that ends. You can also borrow board games looks never-ending. there, such as backgammon or chess, and it is a popular breakfast spot early in the morning. RESTAURANTS Kaffibrennslan 31 34 Argentína 37 Tapas 44 Bæjarins Bestu Pósthusstræti 9 Krua Thai Barónsstígur 11a Vesturgata 3b Tryggvagata Café, bistro, restaurant, bar – whatever Tryggvagata 14 Perennial favourite, Argentína is a fine Those with a bit of money and time on A veritable institution in central Reykja- you want to call it, Kaffibrennslan is a dining steak house. For whale-etarians, their hands would do well to spend an vík, and probably the most consistently This authentic Thai restaurant is one of consistently pleasant place to go for you can also sample the local Minke, or evening or two at Tapas, having course successful business the city has seen, the better bargains in town. We chal- snacks and refreshments of whatever excellent fish. This restaurant has main- after course of wonderful miniature Bæjarins Bestu is actually just a simple lenge you to find a better meal for the variety you happen to crave. They also tained its reputation with three things: dishes served to them. Oddly, it’s also a hot dog stand. Their menu consists of same price anywhere else. They have have the largest selection of beers in perfect cuts of meat, excellent service, great place to get tasty and affordable hot dogs and Coke – and nothing else. their menu outside with numbered co- Reykjavík. We recommend the Cobra and an excellent wine list. lobster. If you don’t feel like getting up You don’t have to be a Buddhist to ask lour images. Just say the number and eat and Staroprammen. right away afterwards, there’s also a them to make you one with everything. the food. lounge.

Glaumbar 32 Tveir Fiskar 35 Vín og Skel 38 Sægreifinn 45 Subway Tryggvagata 20 Geirsgata 9 Laugavegur 55 Geirsgata Austurstræti Partly a sports bar, Glaumbar is also a Located right by the harbour, Tveir Fis- If you like fresh seafood and are in the Places recommended for their local touch You know exactly what you get when popular venue for live bands and DJs, but kar boasts some of the freshest fish in mood for something a little different, tend to instantly loses any element of the you walk into a Subway restaurant, and mostly it’s just a good place to get drunk town – they prefer it to still be mov- this cosy but ambitious restaurant just exotic, but Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) is their sub sandwiches are always made and party. They can host private gath- ing when they buy it. Their menu also might fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, an exception. It’s a combination of a fish from fresh ingredients – right in front erings before midnight on weekdays, dares to be different, and this just squid, lobster and other creatures of the store and a... well, not exactly a restau- of your eyes. Reasonably priced and far and you would be hard pressed to get might be your only chance to sample deep predominate the menu here. There rant but a place that serves prepared healthier than most alternatives – pro- center city the in a better deal on a keg party than here. the debatable delights of raw dolphin. is no smoking in the restaurant, but if food, located in a harbour warehouse. vided you show some restraint when you you want to have a go at sitting out- Smell of fish, the view over the harbour, order. side there are fleece blankets provided. an old man that looks exactly like an Ice- landic fisherman should. What’s not to

love? cafe & bar & cafe

39 Shalimar 46 Nonnabiti DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 11 41 Prides itself on being the northernmost Almost certainly the best junk food in the Indian/Pakistani restaurant in the world. Greater Reykjavík area, and extremely Hafnarstræti Their cooks know exactly what they are popular with drunken youths on week- 44 doing with the spices and as a result we ends. This place has none of that Sub- 45 33 have given them two glowing reviews way commitment to healthy living, and Austurstræti 46 42 and a ‘Bezt í Heimi’ recommendation in they probably contribute significantly to 39 10 the past. You can still see the latter ar- the ever-increasing “size” of the nation. 26 ticle hanging in their window – and we They also serve burgers and sandwiches, 6 stand by it. and have lunchtime offers. 21 22 28 18 49 Bankas17 Ingólfsstræti 43 træ ti 11 3 23 40 Við tjörnina 47 Hamborgarabúlla Lækjargata 9 Templarasund 3 Tómasar (Búllan) 24 20 Hverfisgata If you’re looking for high-quality food in Geirsgata 1 Laugavegur19 a unique but cosy setting it doesn’t get 5 14 much better than Við Tjörnina (literally, Tómas originally popularised the ham- By the Pond). They’re known for their burger in Iceland when he opened his Skólavörðustígur13 traditional living room décor and innova- famous Tommaborgarar shop. A couple 16 tígur 8 tive fish dishes made from a variety of of decades and business ventures later 25 fresh catches. The ambiance is some- he has gone back to the basics and now 48 thing you have to experience to truly has one of the most popular fast food restaurants downtown – affectionately Klappars appreciate. 30 known as Búllan (the joint).

41 FAST FOOD 48 38 47 First Vegetarian 32 American Style (Á næstu grösum) Tryggvagata 26 Laugavegur 20b 31 Famous for their burgers and fries, One of the first places in Reykjavík to American Style actually serves a variety specialise in vegetarian and vegan dishes. 37 29 of American-influenced dishes with a Despite having changed owners a couple 27 strong local flavour. You get the feeling of years back, the quality has remained 15 that you are expected to eat a great deal, consistent and you almost get the feel- Austurstræti so loosen your belt a bit before you dig ing that the place is being run on sheer Bankastræ Ingólfsstræti in. principle as much as anything else. ti Hverfisgata 40 12 SkólavörðustígurLaugav 2 36 Lækjargata egur 35 42 Pizza King 49 Kebabhúsið 43 4 Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 Tjarnargata 34 Most people get to know Pizza King af- Some of the best fish and chips in town Þingholtsstræti ter a late-night drinking session leaves can be found at Kebabhúsið, and they 7 them tired and hungry downtown, and it obviously have a selection of kebabs as Bergstaðastræti Frakkastígur truly is a lifesaver in those situations. The well. The falafel comes recommended, difference between Pizza King and some despite being a relatively unappreciated Óðinsgata less savoury fast food options downtown menu item in Iceland, and the beef and 1 is that you would be happy to go back to lamb pitas are quite good as well. eat there while sober, and their special lunch offers make that a very attractive Barónsstígur option.

Dillon 33 Hornið 36 Tjarnarbakkinn 43 Bernhöftsbakarí 50 Vitabar Laugavegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Vonarstræti 3 Bergstaðastræti 13 Bergþórugata 21 Legendary Icelandic rockers have been Means “the corner” and the place lives Tjarnarbakkinn is right above the Iðnó The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded Actually a bar, but best known for its known to DJ at this place from time to up to its name by… well, being on a theatre, so it’s an ideal place to go be- in 1834. If you are particular about your hamburgers. A burger with fries for 500 time, and Þröstur from Mínus has even corner. This is actually the oldest Italian fore shows, or during if you prefer a bread this is about the best place in is one of the best meal deals in town, but tended the bar. You can pretty much guar- restaurant in town, celebrating its 27th more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by central Reykjavík to stock up on a vari- special mention must go to the Forget- antee this place will be rocking any time year, and it always seems to be consis- the window you get nice view of the ety of freshly baked loaves – they also Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extrava- you walk in on a Friday or Saturday night. tently popular. Excellent quality pizza, pond, and in the summers you can do a particularly moist and juicy version ganza. pasta and salads – all priced affordably. enjoy your meal outside. The lamb of the ever popular vínarbrauð pastries. comes especially recommended; it’s You can even call ahead and have your one of those rare traditional Icelandic favourite items reserved, if you’re afraid dishes that aren’t an acquired taste. someone else might beat you to that last snúður or kleina. B8_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_REVIEWS/FOOD

Icelandic Fish Chips Deco Vor

Tryggvagata 8, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 511 1118 Austurstræti 12, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 578 7900 Laugavegur 24, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 562 2322

The newest addition to the Reykjavík restaurant scene is a Deco, a newly opened café and wine bar has all the poten- As anyone who spends much time in downtown Reykjavík cosy little place located right next to the old harbour. The tial to become a popular lunch café, right in the city centre. will attest, finding a good, affordable place to have lunch name, Icelandic Fish Chips, gives a hint what kind of menu to Its modern and stylish interiors, varied menu and impressive can be a gruelling task. After a while, all those sun-dried to- expect, but actually, the food has nothing in common with selection of whiskey, not to mention the location, should be mato pastas, chicken breast tandooris and mushroom soups the traditional British dish, except for the fish. It’s a healthy an attraction, but when arriving during weekly lunch hour, lose their charm; what started as an inventive addition to organic restaurant using only organic vegetables, quality fish my companion and I were, surprisingly, the only customers Reykjavík’s diner kitchens soon became redundant. products and no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. there. It was thus refreshing to encounter new Laugavegur res- One of the owners, Erna Kaaber, welcomed my two din- Our waiter welcomed us with an impressive menu of taurant Vor’s menu, which is at most times far removed from ing partners and me as we arrived during lunch hours and in- classic dishes – sandwiches, salads, pasta, meat and various what’s being served in comparable places. With a few excep- formed us what a healthy treat was awaiting us. After serving starters. After debating whether to have the fish of the day tions, the restaurant provides an original approach to feeding us white wine as well as freshly made lemonade and orange (monkfish) with baked potato, or try the warm chicken salad downtowners, leaning heavily on French and Mediterranean juice we were offered a selection of all they have. As start- with pine nuts, bacon and African sauce, I chose the latter styles. ers, we got spelt bread with hummus and a creamy broccoli option. I regretted that decision minutes later. For the price The “Rich carrot soup with ginger” seemed the obvious soup. Then crunchy potato chips and onion rings. Instead of (1,390 ISK), the portion wasn’t very rich and although ev- choice for a starter. The soup was fine in the taste depart- fattening sauces like mayo we were served “Skyronnes” on erything tasted nicely, there was nothing over the top about ment, but sorely lacked the richness indicated by its name. A the side to dip the chips into. Made out of Skyr (a popular the dish. My dining companion was more impressed with his disappointment that was, but the soup still merits a second fat-free Icelandic milk product) and flavoured with all sorts of grilled tenderloin of beef, finely cooked, although the baked chance. spices it was much tastier, not to mention healthier, than the potato served with the meat was a little too mushy for his We next sampled the three salads on offer at Vor. The classic calorie-rich dressing. taste. house speciality Spring Salad contrasted nicely with January’s Three fillets of deep-fried plaice, cod and haddock came After the salad, there was still plenty of room for cof- subzero temperatures, and the rucola salad was considerably as our main dish, served with two types of potatoes and the fee and dessert. The cup of Americano was excellent and boosted by soft Parmesan cheese. A green salad seemed like aforementioned Skyronnes. The fish, wrapped in a dough while slurping it down, we had to decide whether to pick a the perfect idea post Christmas bingeing, and exceeded it- made out of spelt instead of white wheat and deep-fried warm apple pie, chocolate cake or fruit parfait with mango self with a fine lemon vinaigrette. in vegetable oil, was delicious; as were the organic pota- sauce. As it is my sincere belief that every good meal should The Sweet Chilli Omelette was satisfyingly simple in toes oven-baked in olive oil, flavoured with Maldon salt and end with chocolate cake, the decision wasn’t too difficult. composition; a nice consistency was further enhanced by a parsley. As we had been told this restaurant was especially And Deco’s liquid chocolate cake with fruit and ice cream is homemade chilli jam. Our favourite course of the meal was child-friendly, my companion brought along her six-month- just to die for. Served as the centre of a huge stained glass without a doubt the Mediterranean-style grilled lamb pepper old daughter, who wasn’t left out of the feast. Served home- plate, decorated with strawberries, blueberries, redcurrants, steak. A good selection of cooked vegetables, including to- made liquidy paste made out of organic carrots and coconut coconut ice cream and raspberry sauce, I almost didn’t want matoes and black olives, provided a fine tableau for the very oil, she was quite happy with the dinner as well as the toys to ruin the classy design. But I did, and the cake was perfect. properly handled steak. Not as satisfying was the tuna and that kept her occupied for most of our time there. Crunchy on the outside, melting on the inside. It will defi- its accompanying cannellini bean salad. While some pieces of As the restaurant is quite small, every table was filled, nitely draw me back again soon. tuna were near-perfectly fried, others weren’t, and such an but to meet the growing popularity, the restaurant also of- Later on I was told that Deco usually gets quite crowded inconsistency managed to ensure the course didn’t fully live fers takeaway, a good and not so pricy choice if you need to during the evening, when it turns into more of a wine bar up to its potential. grab a meal when heading home after work. For 1,450 ISK than a coffeehouse, serving cocktails, champagne, the afore- With affordable pricing, food that’s well above average you can pick the fish of your choice and combine it with side mentioned whiskey and wine to locals looking for a pleas- and a comfortable atmosphere, Vor is a excellent choice for dishes like potatoes and various sauces, and the portions are ant night out. Open until 01:00 on weekdays and 03:00 on lunch in the 101 area. The coffee was pretty good, too. large enough to satisfy. weekends, its relaxed vibe and conversation-friendly atmo- sphere makes it a good pick for exactly that occasion.

Reviewed by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Reviewed by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Reviewed by Haukur Magnússon RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_BEZT Í HEIMI_B9

COME TO THE NORTHERNMOST INDIAN-PAKISTANI CUISINE AND TRY ONE OF THE MOST SAUCY, SNAZZY, & SPICY CURRIES IN ICELAND.

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 990.- 1190.-

INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE BEZT Í HEIMI: Grái kötturinn AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is

Hverfisgata 16a, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 551 1544

Grái Kötturinn (The Grey Cat) a tiny and dark coffee workers are all amongst regulars as well. Even hungry place in the City Centre, takes you back decades in party people arriving in groups on weekends, mak- time. Somewhat of a refuge away from the bustling ing the coffee place with its legendary breakfast a city, it’s located in a basement at Hverfisgata, right final destination before heading home after a night “One of Europe’s opposite the National Theatre of Iceland. With its an- out. Note, it is good advice to arrive early if you are in tique furniture, and loads of books lining the shelves, desperate need for morning fuel, as the place fills up finest ensembles.” - BBC Music Magazine the homelike, relaxed atmosphere and the opening pretty quickly early on. hours being from seven in the morning, makes Grái It truly is a coffeehouse like no other in Reykjavík. upcoming concerts Kötturinn the early bird’s favourite. Serving the break- First of all, it opens its doors to all its regulars when a THursdAy, January 18th @ 7.30 THursdAy, March 1st @ 7:30PM fast special until 10:00, including home-baked bread, large portion the city is still fast asleep. Second, with mozart and bruckner beethovens’ eroica Conductor ::: Petri sakari Conductor ::: Lawrence renes bagels and toast and various versions of European and only six tables, it is most likely you won’t be disturbed soloist ::: Judith Ingólfsson soloist ::: Gunnar Kvaran American brunch until afternoon. If you’re especially by too many customers when it’s almost too early in W. A. Mozart ::: Violin Concerto no. 5 Hector Berlioz ::: Le Corsair, overture hungry, order The Truck, a rich portion of eggs, bacon the morning to function and you just want to drink Anton Bruckner ::: symphony no. 7 John speight ::: Cello Concerto Ludwig van Beethoven ::: symphony no. 3 and American pancakes with fried potatoes, tomatoes, your morning coffee and read the newspapers in THursdAy, January 25th @ 7.30 butter, syrup and toast and of course a strong cup of peace and quiet. And, this is the main reason it gets dark music days sATurdAy, March 10th @ 3:00PM coffee or tea and orange juice. That should provide the honour of being Bezt í Heimi, it serves the best Conductor ::: roland Kluttig family concert soloists ::: Guðrún Birgisdóttir, Conductor ::: Berharður Wilkinson plentiful energy to last almost the whole day. freakin’ tuna salad bagel in the whole country. I chal- Martial Nardeau Benjamin Britten ::: young Persons’ Guide Nothing really beats sitting by the window of Grái lenge everyone who disagrees to recommend a better Örlygur Benediktsson ::: A new piece to the Orchestra Kötturinn with a strong espresso, a fine bagel and all place for a tuna bagel, or better yet, bring one to our Karólína Eiríksdóttir ::: Concerto f. two flutes Erik Mogensen ::: rendez-vous THursdAy, March 15th @ 7:30PM three, or wait, four newspapers, at your table, watch- office any time! Herbert H. Ágústsson ::: Concerto breve russian giants ing the traffic start to flow up and down Hverfisgata in Conductor ::: rumon Gamba the morning. Mostly due to its location, it is extremely Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 7-15. THursdAy, February 8th @ 7:30PM soloists ::: Tatiana Monogarova nordic music sir John Tomlinson popular among actors working at the National The- Conductor ::: rumon Gamba Igor stravinsky ::: Fireworks atre, but bohemians, filmmakers, students and office Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir soloist ::: Lilya Zilberstein sergei rackmaninov ::: Isle of death Jón Leifs ::: Galdra Loftur, Overture dimitri shostakovich ::: symphony no. 14 Edvard Grieg ::: Piano Concerto Jean sibelius ::: symphony no. 2 tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is or tel. 545 2500 All concerts take place in Háskólabíó unless otherwise noted.

WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS F í t o n / S Í A

fl group is the main sponsor of NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS the iceland symphony orchestra B10_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_ULTIMATE SURVIVAL GUIDE

Services Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja Icelandic citizenship although some Useful Numbers 09-16. www.kleif.is every last Saturday each month, start- exceptions exist to that general rule. Emergency number: 112 Information on day tours, accommo- ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Applications are at the Ministry of Police: 569 9000 Getting Around dations, car rental and everything else Church also has masses in English and Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Medical help: 1770 Public transport you need to know when travelling in Polish. Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, Dental emergency: 575 0505 The only public transport system in Iceland. Other religious movements in Reykja- www.domsmalaraduneyti.is AA: 551 2010 Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run Iceland Visitor vík are for example: Unemployment benefits: Director- Information: 118 every 20 minutes and price per fare is Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, The Muslim Association of Iceland, ate of Labour, Public Employment Telegrams: 146 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- www.icelandvisitor.com Ármúli 38 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, Tax Free Refund dren. Complete route map at: www. A travel agency offering travelling Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 www.vinnumalastofnun.is Iceland Refund, bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 package trips and custom-made tours Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 Icelandic social security number Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on as well as car rental, day tours and The Church of Evangelism, (kennitala): National Register, Bor- www.icelandrefund.com weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week- accommodations for visitors. Hlíðasmári 9 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, Laundry Service ends Tourist Information Centre The Icelandic Buddhist Movement, www.hagstofa.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, Rent a bike Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Víghólastígur 21 Driver’s license: Those who have a Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, www.visitreykjavik.is Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, foreign license don’t need an Icelandic Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Offers information for tourists as well Fríkirkjuvegur 5 one for the first six months. After that Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, as providing internet access, booking Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 time you have one month to apply for Post Office Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is service, a phone centre, money ex- Roman Catholic Church, an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- Post offices are located around the Tourist Information Centre, change service, tax refund and selling Hávallagata 14 tions are at police stations. city as well as in the countryside. Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja- Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, The downtown post office is at www.visitreykjavik.is vík Tourist Card gives admission to city Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and Taxi busses, various museums, Reykjavík Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71 Rent subsidies: Social Service Office, info on opening hours visit www. Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, swimming pools, The Family Park and Seventh-Day Adventists, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www. posturinn.is. Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and Suðurhlíð 36 felagsthjonustan.is Stamps are also sold in bookstores, BSR, Tel: 561 0000 the National and University Library. Zen Buddhism in Iceland, gas stations, some grocery stores and For disabled travellers The Icelandic Tourist Board Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Facts on Iceland tourist shops. Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Independent Church, Iceland is a constitutional repub- Embassies and Consulates Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. www.visiticeland.com Háteigsvegur 101 lic with slightly more than 300,000 in Iceland randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav- All information needed before travel- The Russian Orthodox Church in inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the United States, Laufásvegur 21, el_service/ ling in Iceland. Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 country’s capital since 1786 and today Tel: 562 9100 A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja- Goethe Institute The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 almost two-thirds of the population United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, vík, can be found at tourist offices. Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, Trade Unions live in the greater capital area. Tel: 550 5100 Car rentals www.goethe.de/island The Icelandic Federation of Labour, The 17th of June 1944 Iceland Russia, Garðastræti 33, Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, A cultural institute that offers movie Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is became an independent republic. Tel: 551 5156 Tel: 554 6040 screenings, lectures and German The Federation of State and Mu- That day is the national holiday and is China, Víðimelur 29, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 language courses. nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, celebrated all around the country. Tel: 552 6751 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 Nordic House Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is Alþingi, the national parliament, For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800 Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, The Association of Academics, Bor- is the oldest assembly in the world, Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. www.nordice.is gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is established at Þingvellir in 930 but sions/icelandic-missions/ Tel: 587 5544 The Nordic cultural centre organises Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par- Internet Access Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, various cultural events, conferences www.efling.is liament is comprised of 63 members, Most coffeehouses have wireless Tel: 565 3800 and exhibitions. The Commercial Workers’ Union, who are elected by popular vote every Internet access. Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is four years. Icelandic citizens over 18 Computers with Internet connections Tel: 577 6050 offer brochures, maps and information Union of Public Servants, Grettis- years of age have the legal right to are available at: Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 505 0600 for travellers. gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is vote. Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 Airlines Useful Websites Parliamentary elections were last BSÍ Bus Terminal, Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Useful Information www.visitreykjavik.is (The official held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Where to learn Icelandic as a tourist website of Reykjavík) votes going to the Independence Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, foreign language www.gayice.is (Information about Party. The Social Democratic Alliance The Reykjavík City Library, www.eyjaflug.is Icelandic on the Internet, the gay scene in Iceland) got 31 percent, the Progressive Party Tryggvagata 15 Bus Terminal www.vefskoli.is www.fjolmenningarsetur.is 17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8 The National and University Li- BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Mímir Continuing Education, (The Multicultural Centre) percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per- brary, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is www.hostel.is cent. The Independence Party and the Tourist Information Centre, Samferda.net Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, (Hostel International in Iceland) Progressive Party formed a coalition Aðalstræti 2 A reasonable choice for the budget Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 www.vinnumalastofnun.is and together lead the government. Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2 traveller. You log on to the website Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, (Public employment services) Iceland has 12 ministers with the Opening hours www.samferda.net, choose your Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages) prime minister and head of govern- Bars and clubs: According to regula- destination and hopefully find a travel The Icelandic College of Engineer- www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is tions bars may be open until 01:00 on buddy to share the cost. ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9, www.simaskra.is also chairman of the Independence weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is (Icelandic telephone directory) Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Cultural Centres and Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, Where to get … Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tourist Offices Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Work and residence permit: The office since 1996. He is the Chief of and Smáralind as well as most super- The Intercultural Centre www.ir.is Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð State although his duties are mostly markets and tourist shops have longer The Intercultural Centre throws oc- The University of Iceland – Depart- 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. ceremonial. opening hours. casional cultural events and confer- ment of Continuing Education, Insurance and benefits: The State Time Zone: GMT 0 Swimming pools: weekdays ences but its main purpose is to be an Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK). 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 information and counselling centre www.endurmenntun.is 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is International Dialling Code: +354 although some may be open an hour and serve as an advocate for the rights Religious movements Icelandic citizenship: Unless you Weather: Average temperature dur- longer. of immigrants in Iceland. The national church in Iceland is the come from a Nordic country, foreign ing summer is around 10ºC and winter The State owned ÁTVR liquor Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses citizens have to have had an unre- 0ºC. For information on weather in stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat www.ahus.is are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 stricted residence permit in Iceland for Iceland visit www.vedur.is or Tel: 902 11-18. Icelandic Travel Market in churches all around the capital. at least seven years in order to get an 0600.

ABC-kort

Hjálpaðu bágstöddum börnum og njóttu afsláttar í leiðinni

Með ABC-kortinu færðu 5% afslátt í verslunum Lyfju um land allt og 1% af upphæðinni rennur beint til ABC-barnahjálpar (afslátturinn á einnig við lyfseðilsskyld lyf).

Þú sækir um ABC-kortið hjá Netbankanum á www.nb.is RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 01_2007_ART/PHOTOGRAPHY_B11

Counting in the New Year Across the Globe

Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photos by Jill Waterman

Jill Waterman, a New York-based photog- in Paris and didn’t have any plans on New of Peace”. That was really special.” a Liborious party at a new place called Bos- rapher, hasn’t exactly been out of ideas for Year’s Eve. I was also new to photography One of the more interesting New Year’s ton. We ended up at NASA at around 3:30, what to do on New Year’s Eve for the past and thought it would be a good way to track celebrations she photographed was in Phila- and it was pretty insane. There was a couple 23 years. Since 1983, she has travelled to my progress in photography and sort of keep delphia. On New Year’s Day, an age-old pressed against the stage, and the guy was various cities all over the world to document an annual check on things. After that first tradition dating back to the Celts and an- all over the girl. Then there was a fairly heavy different New Year’s celebrations. Focusing year I decided to make it an annual event,” cient Romans has been transformed into the woman who was very interested in having on intense activities in the streets, public par- Waterman says. Mummers Parade, where people dress up her picture taken. At one point she got up on ties and private family gatherings. A project “New Year’s Eve is the only true inter- in costumes, march in the streets and play the stage and was go-go dancing to Sir Mix- that started in Paris has led her on a journey national holiday, celebrated everywhere in pranks. a-Lot’s “Baby Got Back” while the bouncer around the world of firecrackers, gala dress- the world regardless of religion or whether “The parade has been going on for over was trying to get her down. It ended up in a es and party hats. The result: a truckload the culture actually believes January 1 to be a hundred years. Today, it’s mainly com- little dance between them. There were good of photos capturing ceremonies and social the beginning of the new year. It’s also a posed of blue-collar workers who plan for picture opportunities all over the place.” gatherings on this old international holiday. time that people actually want to be photo- the event all year long. It’s very elaborate. In Any surprises? She has witnessed various traditions and graphed and seen,” she adds. fact, I think it’s Philadelphia’s best kept se- “Well, I was expecting even more crazi- chaotic moments. A World War III-like fire- During the first few years the plan was cret,” Waterman says. ness. I didn’t see any horrific sights. Aside works display in Berlin, a religious festival at to work on the project for a quarter of a When asked where the best party is, she from a few people who threw bottles here Copacabana Beach, a roaring crowd at New century, but as Waterman’s list is long and tells me it’s hard to qualify. “There is some- and there, I would say that people in Reykja- York’s Time Square, Pasadena’s famous Rose only keeps growing, it has become almost a thing wonderful about every place, and they vík were crazy in an orderly way.” Parade and vibrant parties in cities including neverending challenge. In the meantime, she are so very different. In Rio it’s a religious Waterman’s New Year’s Eve Project is Amsterdam, Paris, Edinburgh, Shanghai and has made herself an expert on New Year’s event where the followers of Iemanja make a sort of a cultural phenomenon. With 23 cities San Francisco. celebrations. She has noticed certain chang- pilgrimage to the beach to worship the god- done and still counting, she is far from run- After reading about Reykjavík being a big es over the years: “When I started, New dess of the sea. Regarding parties, I would ning out of ideas for where to go. Aside from party destination, her trip led her to Iceland’s Year’s Eve was much more casual. There say Reykjavík is high on that list. It’s pretty considering trips to Australia next year and capital where, among other things, she par- wasn’t as wide a range of activities as there crazy and reminded me a lot of the year I Cuba in 2009, all the glittering party people tied at NASA, witnessed the turn of the year has gotten to be in the past ten years due was in Miami Beach. There are so many clubs in Russia, Japan, and Spain may also expect at Hallgrímskirkja Church and attended a to the coming of the millennium.” Waterman and parties there wasn’t enough time to get to pose for Waterman in years to come. gala dinner at the Pearl and the Hótel Borg. spent the millennium in Israel, an area where around to all of them. Here in Reykjavík, we To view more of Jill Waterman’s pictures The Grapevine met with Waterman on Janu- the Gregorian calendar would least likely be were out until 6:30 in the morning, and there and learn about New Year traditions and ary 2 after the whole big shebang was over, celebrated. “It was interesting because that were a couple of places I had wanted to go stories from around the world visit her Web when she finally had time to relax after a psy- year fell on a Saturday, the Jewish holy day. that we didn’t get to. We started early, with site at: www.newyearphotos.com. To get chotic night out. In Jerusalem, a segment of the population visits to the firework stores to photograph a sneak peak at some of her pictures from “This project has been an amazing experi- wanted to squelch the celebration in honour the preparations. We went to the bonfire Reykjavik visit: www.photoserve.com and ence. I started it without planning how long of Sabbath. But there were also charismatic at Ægisíða and spent midnight at Hallgrím- search for her name. I would do it, where I would go or knowing Christians who were very involved in celebra- skirkja Church. That was crazy with so much very much about New Year’s celebrations in tions. I spent midnight in Bethlehem, where going on. After that we went to the clubs, different countries. At that time I was living they held a large celebration called “A Night Hressó, Sirkus, and Café Oliver and then to The Reykjavík Grapevine Readers Survey

Win a trip to GREENLAND or around ICELAND Courtesy of Air Iceland and Reykjavík Excursions

PRIZES Daytrip to Greenland for two with Air Iceland. Daytrip for two with Reykjavík Excursions.

The Reykjavík Grapevine readers survey at www.grapevine.is

Tell us what you think. Answer honestly for a chance to win an exciting travel experience.

Prizes are valid for 12 months after acceptance. REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_FEATURE/MUSIC/ALBUM OF THE YEAR_19

2 3 4 5

Gavin Portland Pétur Ben Brain Police Lay Low Views of Distant Towns 18 Wine For My Weakness 17 Beyond the Wasteland 13 Please Don’t Hate Me 12

“Using a combination of hardcore, punk and “Wine For My Weakness met my standards “Brain Police have been a favorite with the “A very sincere record. She is re-inventing alternative rock, Gavin Portland is the band and then some. Pétur Ben shows his talent in Icelandic public for a long time, no wonder, blues-country.” of the future.” many areas and does a thorough job. Hope- since this band has it all, good vocals, groove fully we won’t have to wait as long for the tunes and on the plus side, it rocks!” next album.”

6 7-8 7-8 9-13

Eberg Benni Hemm Hemm Skakkamanage Jónas Sigurðsson Voff Voff 11 Kajak 10 Lab of Love 10 Þar sem malbikið svífur 7

“Pure pop made by somebody who is ready “Benni Hemm Hemm’s latest outing is stron- “I expected a cute and entertaining album “I never expected that a solo album from to experiment with sounds and arrange- ger than his first, even though it’s not as from Skakkamanage, but this still surprised the leader of the band Sólstrandargæjarnir ments. The tunes are catchy and the sounds fresh a listen.” me. It is surely cute, but it is also much bet- would arouse my interest. But life is full of are atmospheric and imaginative.” ter than I expected. Really entertaining songs surprise and this album is great. Finally we and well performed.“ have an Icelandic Beck.”

9-13 9-13 9-13 9-13

Jóhann Jóhannsson Shadow Parade Ghostigital Skúli Sverrisson IBM 1401, A Users Manual 7 Dubious Intentions 7 In Cod We Trust 7 Sería 7

“Irrepressible beauty.” “Dark and gruesome ghostship that stands “A big improvement over their debut album. “Skúli Sverrison’s Sería came out of nowhere strong the whole time.” Wicked beats, arresting sounds and crazy lyr- and refused to leave my head for days.” ics. Good morning to you! And it features Mark E. Smith on vocals on the dirty disco single Not Clean. Truly great stuff!”

14.-15. Future Future Insight 6 14.-15. The Telepathetics Ambulance 6 Concert of the Year 16.-20. Red Motor Dog Rock Machine 5 16.-20. Æla Sýnið tillit, ég er frávik 5 Artist Venue Points 16.-20. Forgotten Lores Frá heimsenda 5 Sykurmolarnir Laugardalshöll 24 16.-20. Changer Breed the Lies 5 Sufjan Stevens Fríkirkjan 17 16.-20. Ben Frost Theory of Machines 5 Roger Waters Egilshöll 14 21.-23. Nico Muhly Speaks Volumes 4 Airwaves 21.-23. Biggi ID 4 Kerrang! Night Nasa 11 21.-23. Fjölnir Sonur neyslusamfélagsins... 4 The Stooges Listasafn 10 24.-29. Foghorns A New Low 3 Morrisey Laugardalshöll 10 24.-29. Fræ Eyðileggðu þig smá 3 Entombed - Mínus Nasa 10 24.-29. Megas Passíusálmar í Skálholti 3 Brian Jonestown 24.-29. Ókind Hvar í Hvergilandi 3 Massacre Nasa 8 24.-29. Bubbi 06.06.06 3 Belle and Sebastian Bræðslunni 8 24.-29. Momentum Requiem 3 Sigur rós Miklatún 8 30. Hafdís Huld Dirty Paper Cup 2

Disclaimer: various Icelandic publications and radiostations and It was however an editorial decision to put The Panel: XFM, Páll Hilmarsson, The Reykjavík Grapevine, As editor of the Reykjavík Grapevine, I should men- asked them to rank the five best albums of the year; the band, and said journalist on the cover. In mak- Ágúst Bogason, Rás 2, Andrea Jónsdóttir, Rás 2, Ar- Snorri Sturluson, XFM, Steinþór Helgi Arnsteins- tion that Haukur S. Magnússon, staff journalist for with the best album receiving five points and the ing that decision, I came to the conclusion that the nar Eggert Thoroddsen, Morgunblaðið, Árni Matt, son, Fréttablaðið/X-ið 977, Trausti Júlíusson, Frét- the Grapevine, is a member of the band Reykjavík!, fifth best receiving one point. The result was that band should not suffer for Magnússon’s work for Morgunblaðið, Atli Bollason, Morgunblaðið, Atli tablaðið, Valli, Dordingull.com which the magazine is rewarding for releasing the Reykjavík! received 27 points, while Gavin Portland, the paper, as the decision to put the first placed Fannar Bjarkason, Blaðið, Búi Bendtsen, XFM, Freyr best Icelandic album of the year 2006. the number two entry, finished with 18. This is the band on the cover would have been automatic if it Bjarnason, Fréttablaðið, Gunnar L. Hjálmarsson, When selecting the album of the year The result of an independent panel, not a selection by were any other band. Fréttablaðið, Hildur Maral Hamíðsdóttir, Rjóminn. Grapevine contacted a total of 17 music critics from the Grapevine’s staff. -Editor. is, Ólafur Páll Gunnarsson, Rás 2, Ómar Eyþórsson, 20_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_INTERVIEW/MUSIC RVK_GV_01_2007_INTERVIEW_21

Such peaks in the pop landscape are very rare however, and it’s hard to spot some- thing of the sort today, although I admittedly don’t really follow that scene. The latest to surface might perhaps be someone like Mi- chael Jackson or George Michael. Or maybe El Perro Del Mar” Throughout our conversation, Jóhanns- son comes off as a soft-spoken and thought- ful type, one who wishes to be taken seri- ously, but actually warrants the notion, unlike many of his peers. When asked if he enjoys hip-hop, he ponders the question for quite a while before answering that he mostly part- ed ways with the style in 1990, when he lost most of his interest in the genre: “The first batch of Public Enemy records seemed holy to me, their music managed to stretch into a wide array of style, electro, concrete music, punk, but I kind of stopped following it all after that. There have of course been certain artists within hip-hop that have moved me since, but I suppose most of it remains un- derground and I haven’t really had the time to properly acquaint myself with it.”

A Movement in the Air Ppopular on-line music database allmusic. com listsJóhannsson in the Electronica cat- egory. It might befit him, as most of his work is done through a computer. However, al- though his music contains some elements of what Americans refer to as Electronica (and Icelanders refer to as “electronic music”), it is at times far removed from some of the canons of that style. Egged on by a reporter, he ponders what making electronic music entails. “You might say that everyone is an elec- tronic musician these days, even the little kid with an acoustic guitar who records all his strumming on a laptop. Everybody’s using the same instruments, except for maybe a few retroheads like Devendra Banhart, who’s an analogue freak that records everything on tape. I feel that the “electronic musician” tag really relates to anyone recording music to- day, and that the term itself is both outdated and degenerate. Not a definition at all, rather a superficial label. When you’re working on a computer, as most people do these days, then it all winds up in the same digital form and it’s only for academics to argue what the source of the sound was, if it found form as a movement in the air or as a movement in the oscillator of some synth.” So you’re not an “analogue freak”, you don’t think it matters if music is recorded in analogue or digital form, something many of your colleagues feel strongly about? “I don’t think it matters at all. For me, it’s the end result. I really use a lot of analogue instruments and all sorts of old relics, I get the sound I am looking for through those units but it’s not a religion. First and fore- most, the tools are a means to a specific end, and I mainly use computers because… well, they’re here. Of course they give tremendous opportunities for manipulation. But in any case, I view them just the same as I view in- struments, whether its an orchestra, an elec- tric guitar or a Hammond organ. They’re all Jóhann Jóhannsson: A User’s Manual just colours in a palette, tools to build with.” Conceptual Backbones Text by Haukur Magnússon Photo by Skari As well as building a successful solo career, Jóhannsson is also a constant collaborator to artists in other fields. As mentioned above, He used to play in some pretty rough rock parat Organ Quartet speaks volumes in and its opening acts (“múm were a lot of fun, his solo début was in fact a score for the bands. These days, Jóhann Jóhannsson of itself, as anyone remotely familiar with many new things going on… I was expect- play Englabörn, although not his first; he has doesn’t employ loud, distorted guitars to get modern Icelandic music can tell you. None- ing more new material from Rass, but they made various forays into writing music for his points across, yet reaches more ears than theless, the nature of his work has ensured preferred to stick with the classics and did the theatre and film since the mid-nineties. ever before. The following interview details that his name hasn’t exactly rolled off the a good job of it”) betrays him as an obvi- He has also lent his talent to other art forms, the story of a certain transformation, one tongues of the discriminating public. ous music enthusiast, one who still keeps the in fact the aforementioned IBM 1401 was that’s more subtle than you might assume. This has been slowly changing since the fan’s perspective on his own profession. Our originally written as an accompaniment to 2002 release of his solo début, a score for conversation slowly turns to the classic topic a dance piece by renowned choreographer It would be fair to say that Jóhann Jóhanns- Icelandic play Englabörn. The piece garnered of the motivation behind making music, and Erna Ómarsdóttir, who cooperated with him son is catching many of us by surprise. Al- international critical and public acclaim, if and why people should prefer their musi- on forming the conceptual basis behind the though he has been an active participant which has increased at steady rate with each cians to be of an honest and sincere persua- piece (for more info and behind the scenes, in the Icelandic music scene since the early of his subsequent projects. Reviews of his sion. visit: www.ausersmanual.com). 90s, when his shoegaze/drone band Daisy latest release, the concept piece IBM 1401, “The music I like certainly possesses more According to Jóhannsson, a conceptual Hill Puppy Farm made a small dent in the a User’s Manual, are almost uniformly sprin- of those qualities. On the other hand selling backbone of sorts is important to his works. wall of death-metal that then amounted to kled with the types of positive superlatives records is no sin, and I think there are many It provides structure and an underlying idea the Reykjavík underground, he has mostly and exclamation marks usually reserved for artists that are actually brilliant in serving that connects the dots and provides a whole- worked behind the scenes or within the con- Iceland’s top cultural exports, Björk and Sigur both masters, artistically unmatched how- ness. “I have problems sitting down and just fines of bands until recently. A glance at his Rós. ever commercial they may be. I really respect creating an “absolute” or “pure” music, the biography will reveal that he has been a driv- The Grapevine briefly convened with those artists, people like Abba and The Pet kind that isn’t connected to anything but ing force within progressive Icelandic music Jóhannsson over cups of coffee the day after Shop Boys. Those who pander to the mar- itself. That’s one of the things I find diffi- for the last decade; his co-founding of the the much-anticipated Sugarcubes reunion. ket while maintaining their artistic integrity cult, and that’s probably why I’ve been at- Kitchen Motors collective/label and the Ap- His discussion of the Sugarcubes show and and avoiding lowest common denominators. tracted to creating music for films and the- RVK_GV_01_2007_INTERVIEW_21 atre. As soon as the music echoes not that far removed from some to some ideological structure or of the ideas of Virðulegu Forsetar thought pattern a certain context and IBM. We took inspiration from is created and things flow better, bands such as Suicide, The Jesus more smoothly. It happened with & Mary Chain, The Stooges, as Virðulegu Forsetar, and also IBM. well as a bunch of electronic mu- The concept evolved along with sic and Philip Glass. Really, when I the music, and time. It’s music I’ve think about it I am really working been working on since 2001 and with the same elements in a bigger collaborating on with Erna. context. There is more, of course, In many ways I think I work and most people who’d play the al- more like a visual artist than a com- bums back to back would be hard poser; I am not educated in the pressed to find a connection, but craft and I think that makes me ap- for me it’s there. proach things in a more abstract, I really think it took a long time ideological way than I perhaps I for me to find a voice for myself; should. I think I work more from that probably didn’t happen until the standpoint of ideological con- we founded Kitchen Motors. A lot nections and visual wholes than of things start happening around any musicological ideas or things that time, that’s when the organ generally attributed to composi- quartet is formed and that’s when tion. Writing the music isn’t an in- I started to focus on a lot of things tellectual process for me, however, that perhaps blossomed in a cer- it’s instinctual and unconscious in tain way with Englabörn, my first ways, it happens on a lower plane solo album.” of consciousness, so to speak.” A lot of the early influences he Was there a specific category mentions for Daisy Hill Puppy Farm of listener he had in mind while emphasise textures and ambience making IBM 1401? over melodies, something he seem “It is made purely for myself. I to stick to even today. Perhaps the WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS wrote it for myself and it’s just re- connection isn’t far fetched. ally… the kind of music I want to “That was what we were try- hear. Even though it’s a cliché to ing, we weren’t particularly punk NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS say that you have to be true to at all. I think of Daisy Hill more as

“You might say that everyone is an elec- tronic musician these days, even the little BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 kid with an acoustic guitar who records all - PHONE: 551 3083 his strumming on a laptop. Everybody’s us- ing the same instruments, except for may- Oldest bakery in Iceland be a few retroheads like Devendra Banhart, who’s an analogue freak…” since 1834

yourself, I think it rings true. That’s a psychedelic band than a punk the standard I’ve always gone by, one, but of course there was that if I like something, if something primal punk drive behind what we touches me, then there’s a chance did. The Ramones were a huge in- it might also touch someone else. fluence as well. That’s basically how I determine If you delve into Virðulegu if something works: does it move Forsetar, for instance, you’ll see me? Is this something I would like that it’s a very simple piece at its to hear, that I would play in my liv- core, none more complicated than ing room? It’s that simple. When I a Daisy Hill song, or a Ramones wanted to hear albums by an or- one. It’s just stretched out and ex- gan quartet, I called up three organ panded, blown up to… gigantic HEFUR ÞÚ SÉÐ players and asked them to make proportions, and made to be more SKAMMDEGIS- music with me. It isn’t really com- monumental. That specific piece ENNEMM / SÍA / NM18087 plicated.” is all about expanding on some ÞUNGLYNDI? very simple elements, its structure Ef vetrardrunginn dregur þig niður þá Juvenilia was written in about five minutes getur hjálpað að auka hreyfingu og nýta Jóhannsson’s musical roots seem although I took a long time to alla birtu sem gefst. Gönguferð í hádeginu decidedly “rock”, serving as gui- expand and explore on the idea margborgar sig. tarist/organ player for local metal – where that little piece of fabric legends HAM following the de- is viewed in every possible lights, mise of the aforementioned Daisy through a number of media such as Hill Puppy Farm. We speak of his a brass band, two church organs, progression from a teenager in a Matthías Hemstock drumming and rock band towards the man who’s Skúli Sverrisson on bass. They all Virðulegu Forsetar was described enable me to examine all the differ- by Stylus Magazine as “an album ent possibilities that lie within it.” that seemed to epitomise the up- He claims it was written in five tick in interest that contemporary minutes, which might come as a classical music was enjoying at the surprise to any of the enthusias- time.” tic listeners that have embraced He tells me he took a long time Virðulegu Forsetar since it’s initial discovering what he really wanted release. He speaks more of the to create, that his solo albums possible connections between his are the most personal things he’s young, rockin’ self and the person crafted since Daisy Hill, where he at he is today, the one who accompa- 18 years old, wrote music for the nied his latest release with a four three piece to play and record, re- page manifesto detailing the ideo- sulting in a record he refers to with logical structure and philosophical the word “juvenilia”. He says he quest behind it. has problems connecting with the “I think I’m always kind of aim- works of his first musical outlet, ing for the same objective, I’m really before refraining as he remembers just trying to reach a direct connec- that band’s later output. “We actu- tion with people’s emotions. I want ally recorded an entire album that to write music that touches people was never released, very drone-y, in a very direct way, and then sim- heavy stuff. The music got simpler plify it down to a specific core. A and simpler, in the end it was ul- pure essence.” tra basic and minimalistic, really 22_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_REVIEWS/MUSIC/LIVE

Amiina: The Word for the You Could Have Had It Female Soul So Much Better

Text by Helgi Valur Photo by Skari Text by Haukur S. Magnússon Photo by Katla Gunnarsdóttir

I’ll have you know I would review Pétur Ben pastilles, and looking bored while the crowd Who: Amiina the same way. Who: The Brian Jonestown Massacre, got increasingly thin, dragged on for all too Where: Tjarnarbíó At one point Ólöf forgot her lines and Where: NASA long. While every BJM fan knows that the When: December 7, 2006 asked Kjartan, Sigur Rós’s keyboard player, When: November 29, 2006 band has a reputation for rowdy onstage be- if he remembered the lyrics. He wasn’t pay- haviour, fighting among themselves, baiting There was a nice cosy atmosphere when I ing attention but Ólöf came through at last I had been looking forward to seeing The the audience, I refuse to believe that’s what stepped into Tjarnarbíó. Candles were burn- minute. It was things like these that made Brian Jonestown Massacre perform for the they all came to see. That would be under- ing, lamps were lit and foreign exchange this experience feel intimate. I felt at home. longest time. Throughout the years, their al- estimating the music – which is good at its students, who looked like philosophy ma- And that is what concerts should feel like. bums have given me hours of enjoyment and worst, enchanting at its best – and its fans. jors, gave the place a cool underground Families should be like a great concert and some of their songs have touched me in a Maybe BJM were just moving in on a vibe. I had been told that this concert was great concerts should feel like family. way most rock songs do not. five-hour set, something that would have a “woollen sweater thing”. When people Amiina started with quirkiness fitting What I did not look forward to, however, evened the bullshit/music balance to a nice mention the woollen sweater my brain proj- of members of the Icelandic cultural elite. was the sight of a dead-drunk dude wander- equilibrium. That was not to be, however, ects a blinking neon sign that reads preten- Noise some would say. Others would call it ing around a stage, crying out for bottles for the venue closed at one and pulled the tiousness. I own a woollen sweater so I was music. To me it was just foreplay. Soon the of vodka while his bemused band members plug as BJM prepared to go into their next pretty excited. noise turned into joy and out of chaos came tried to seem less embarrassed than they song. Alas, no one had apparently informed The place wasn’t packed, which painful- harmony. The tree huggers and I were feel- obviously were (save for recently returned them of Iceland’s drinking laws, so they nev- ly reminded me of the fact that Icelanders’ ing it. An electric cello, violins and instru- tambourine-man Joel Gion, who managed er managed to play the evening’s purported idea of culture is to watch the X-Factor. If it ments I didn’t even have names for, formed to look completely disinterested at all times). set. Too fucking bad. isn’t Mugison or Sigur Rós we don’t give a a coalition. mixed with glasses of water and Sadly, this was exactly what the main part of Decadence has for long been a staple of shit. But Amiina have long played with Sigur even a saw made it a night to remember. BJM’s set amounted to. Endless disappoint- rock music. It’s part of the reasons it’s good. Rós, so as those thoughts sprang to my I was starting to think that the girls ment. Drinking, drugs, fighting and unprotected head people kept streaming in. Apparently, weren’t gonna sing, but soon the small After what seemed like an eternity of the sex probably amount to about 75 percent of like during most of my sexual encounters, I mythical creatures started to harmonise band plugging in and tuning up, and even- why people like certain types of rock ‘n’ roll; had come too early. perfectly. Being a feminist myself, I loved tually tuning out, Newcombe handed out watching someone live out hedonistic, self- Ólöf Arnalds stepped onstage and apol- the fact that I was watching a world-class salt pastilles to the adoring crowd before a destructive fantasies can provide catharsis ogised for forgetting one of her guitars. concert and both the acts were performed familiar drone sounded and the show com- and a sense of cool essential to the type of She ran offstage and in a flash was ready solely by women. At one point the four menced. And for a good 20 minutes, all went rock BJM play. But, goddammit, they need to to play. Not a guitar but the Hawaiian na- Amiinas were all playing violin family instru- according to plan. They played classics, and play it too. It’s not enough to stand around tional instrument, the ukulele. I’ve always ments and I was loving it. I don’t know what they played them well, the crowd danced onstage, drinking and looking cool. If that dreamt of seeing a woman playing guitar “amiina” means but from now on, “amiina” and folks sang along. At its best their music was all the audience were after, they could well and singing. My dreams were fulfilled. will be a female word for soul to me. I think grabs you by the nerve endings and drags just as well have saved some money by go- The closeness that Ólöf generated was so the word amiina kind of sums up the experi- you along. ing to Kaffi Stígur to watch the local bums intense I felt she was in my bed. I whispered ence. Then Newcombe wanted some vodka. cavort. in her ear “keep playing and I’ll love you”. The intervals between songs got increas- If there are any feminists reading this who ingly longer as the show went on. Various re- take offence and consider me gender biased quests for drinks, tuning up, handing out salt REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_REVIEWS/MUSIC/CDS_23

Gavin Portland 5ta herdeildin Bent Views of Distant Towns Skipið siglir Rottweilerhundur

Gavin Portland released two short EPs in 2006, which gave 5ta herdeildin make playful folk-punk with a big dash of Back in 2001, XXX Rottweilerhundar changed (or maybe cre- clear hints to what one could expect from their first album. country. Articulate and funny Icelandic lyrics accompany the ated) Icelandic rap. One of their members, Bent, is now back So, it was not really a surprise to learn that Gavin Portland re- songs, which are well thought out and performed with a with a solo album. Internationally, rap is for the most part in leased the best album of 2006. Period. Hardcore influenced skill that can only be acquired by someone who truly enjoys a sorry state. Endless rhymes about bitches and guns, Esca- indie rock that sounds like no other Icelandic band. It is mu- what he is doing. It is the group’s third album, 14 tracks run- lades and expensive champagne. Bent’s album is free of this. sic that sounds international, as if Gavin Portland could hold ning for a whole hour. There are not many Icelandic bands He rhymes about his personal life (alcoholism) and the society their own anywhere in the world and against anybody. It is that venture into this kind of folk-rock for some reason. 5ta (capitalistic injustice apparent in the number of Escalades on music that is well thought out and performed with passion. herdeildin do it well. It is not very original music but it is Reykjavík streets). The beats flow nicely and Bent is a great It is music that catches you on the first listen but every listen never pretentious or boring. A highly enjoyable album. The rapper. It is an album that brings hope to Icelandic hip-hop adds something new. It is in short: fucking great. Its only lyrics are printed in Icelandic and Russian – the Russian label and rap, a well-crafted CD that is highly enjoyable. Intelligent shortcoming is that it is too short. The best thing to happen Manchester releases the album. On their website you can and good rap. I am into that and so should you be. to Icelandic rock in a long time. listen to three tracks but you are best off buying it. You will not be disappointed (unless you actually prefer Basshunter to Neil Young).

Future Future Pétur Ben Dýrðin Insight Wine For My Weakness Dýrðin

Future Future were born from the metalcore band Snafu Pétur Ben is best known for being the accompanying gui- January is a fucking grim month. After that, we get the even who had a sizeable following and influence in Icelandic un- tarist to Mugison. On his first solo album, he steps out of grimmer February. And after that, it does not really get any derground rock a few years back. Future Future ventures Mugison’s shadow with his own songs and lyrics. It is a slow, better for a long time. I am dreading it already. Dýrðin arrive into traditional rock with its first release. It is polished and introspective album for the most parts – citing Dylan, Neil to the rescue with the most sugarcoated summer feeling in- well played, the recording and mixing is good, but there is Young and Radiohead as influences. It is at always well done die rock I have heard since I do not know when. It is almost something missing to make it stand out. It’s never bad but but never exceptional – the opening track Look in the Fire like stepping into a time machine, back to the glory years of never great either. At times, as in the track Code Civil or the is excellent and so is the last one, Make Way for the Flood. indie pop. Before the Strokes destroyed it all. Dýrðin has a 7 minute long Passion Of Penguins, the band sounds as if Overall, this is a good album, certainly a great debut, but it long history, originally formed in 1994 but lay dormant until this kind of rock really is their niche, but there are moments never manages to reach great heights. Pétur has proven he´s 2002. Dýrðin’s members were active in various underground when one wonders if they would be better off exploring a great songwriter and guitar player. If he continues on this groups in the last century (Vonbrigði, Risaeðlan, Bellatrix). other roads. track, the next album will be great. Wine For My Weakness 11 songs that for the most part all follow the same formula, is not quite there yet. but fortunately, it is a great formula. Bubbly-indie-pop that makes you want to drink cheap white wine and dance. This is what is needed in January.

All reviews by Páll Hilmarsson

// Aupair í USA Ógleymanleg lífsreynsla sem þú býrð að alla ævi Að launum fær aupair vasapening, frítt fæði og húsnæði, frítt flug til og frá Bandaríkjunum auk 500 Usd. námsstyrks.

BORGARTÚNI 29 | 105 REYKJAVÍK | ICELAND | WWW.EXIT.IS | TEL. +354 562 2362 | FAX. +354 562 9662 24_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_INTERVIEW/FILMS

aged me to take the plunge and redo the short into a feature. I am flattered to hear these comments, but right now I would like to make something completely different and take a break from the Icelandic sing-alongs, “bread-cakes” and dozens and dozens of ex- tras. But it is not out of the question that I revisit the topic in the future. Being a writer/director, are you more in- terested in the technical aspects of film- making, or plain storytelling? Everything about filmmaking interests me. I am a complete nerd. I have books on ev- erything from directing to budgeting to screenwriting to lighting to editing to cam- era assisting to film-festival guidance. In my perfect world, I could try every job on the set once. But unless I am happy with the story, I wouldn’t want to direct a film. It’s true what they say; the only things that really matter in a film are the script and the acting. Anything else is just a bonus. Could you name some of your influenc- es? I think everything in my environment uncon- sciously influences me. But I am conscious of my appreciation of Susan Bier’s Elske Dig for Evigt, Mike Leigh’s Secrets and Lies, Lukas Moodysson’s Tilsammans, Noah Baumbach’s The Squid and the Whale, Thomas Vinter- berg’s Festen and Phil Morrison’s Junebug. These are movies that make me want to make one too. Family Reunion comes off as a very DIY project. Was putting it together much of a hassle, was it difficult to finance; would you do it again? Oh, it was a complete hassle. It’s neverend- ing. At this point, I’ve probably become ob- sessive and can’t quit. Getting the film onto 35mm prints has been latest endeavour and involved many sleepless nights. But I think I secretly like to be swamped over my head. It makes me feel like things are happening, that there is progress. Sleepless nights are re- ally the story of my life. I seem to be drawn to them. Knowing me, I will do this all over again. Many times. What can you tell us about your next project? I believe my next film will also be a short. This time I hope to have more real funding and less chaos. Although I do believe that Bread Cakes & Heartbreaks filmmaking will always involve some sense of chaos. There is really no way around it. I promised myself to start shooting the next Text by Haukur Magnússon Photo by Skari project in the year 2007. That is all I will say for now. Oh, and there will be fewer extras and no sing-along songs. A pleasant surprise at last fall’s Reykjavík In- turned out a bit more saturated than in the it in a subtle way. I don’t really like to tell Family Reunion was recently selected for ternational Film Festival was the screening of Icelandic scenes. We also shot handheld in people how to be or what to think, unless Sundance Film festival, which is essen- Icelandic filmmaker Ísold Uggadóttir’s début New York while in Iceland the camera was they are in grammar school. But if people tially a showcase for independent film- short, Family Reunion often in a fixed position. Iceland was made take something from the film and perhaps makers. How important do you perceive The bilingual flick tells the tale of Katrín, a to look more boring and traditional, in order think about it the day after, then I am happy. the opportunity as being in terms of young Icelandic artist in New York who trav- to get in the head of our lead character and The original purpose of the film was to make your career and the film’s distribution? els back home to attend her grandfather’s view it through her eyes. a film. I had wanted to make a film for years, Are there many breaks at such a festi- 70th birthday and faces the task of coming There is a scene where Katrín faces her but never took the full step until now. I did val? And is there anything in particular out to her seemingly square family. It fea- excruciatingly dull family in their new want to make a bit fun of typical Icelandic you would like to accomplish by taking tures a clever plot, as well as some distinctly jeep on the way from Keflavík, unre- birthday parties, ideas of homophobia, rac- your film to Sundance? “Icelandic” moments that are far removed markable news blaring from the speak- ism, materialism, etc. – just not in a preachy To be quite honest, being selected for Sun- from the traditional tourist/landscape fare. It ers, surrounded by a bland landscape. way. Perhaps I was inspired by the fact that dance is a dream come true. Although I don’t has been very favourably received, and was It is extremely funny. I’d think anyone Iceland has become the aforementioned hip think it will “make” the career of a short film- recently selected to appear at the 2007 Sun- returning to a mundane life after a pe- and cool hotspot of the north, and wanted maker, I believe it can provide one with the dance Film Festival. Uggadóttir took the time riod of adventure could relate. Is it, and to show foreigners another side of Iceland. credibility needed to fund upcoming proj- to answer some of the Grapevine’s ques- other parts of Family Reunion, based on One of the things that surprised me ects. Sundance will also help with finding tions. personal experience? about the movie is how you managed distribution for a short film, but short films Well, just like any artist, you take moments to cram a lot of different aspects into a are actually never made as a means to make Family Reunion is shot in two separate that you have lived or heard about and build 20-minute short. On one hand it’s quite money. Their primary function is to act as a locations, with New York represented upon them. To start with the landscape in comedic, but there is a much wider spec- “calling card” of a director or the production as a sunny haven for the mild mannered Keflavík is just so incredibly odd; when I was trum of emotion involved. Was there company behind it. By going to Sundance I protagonist, where she revels in being younger I always felt a bit sorry for the poor ever an instance where you thought hope to get a better understanding of how in love amidst the atmosphere of a bus- foreigners that were under the impression about expanding the short, perhaps to this business works, meet interesting people tling city in springtime. Your Reykjavík, that they had landed on the moon, when further explore some of the sentiment and promote my film. I’d love to sell it all over on the other hand, has a gloomy feel to they had actually expected this hip and cool it evokes? the world. it. You’ve lived in both places; does the hotspot of the north. I was drawn to creating The strange thing with films is that either Is there anything in particular you would film represent your views on the cities, an environment to which the lead character they are “short films” – often defined as like to accomplish as a filmmaker? And or is the contrast in how they are por- could not relate at all, and have her be very 30 minutes and under. Or they are “feature any specific topics you would like to trayed meant to indicate the feelings of at odds with everyone around her. But most films” – defined as 90 minutes and over. tackle? dread Katrín has for coming out and fac- of the film is fiction. My father doesn’t ac- There is really nothing in-between. In order I think I will always be drawn to topics involv- ing her family? tually know anything about cars, nor does to expand the film I would have had to add ing everyday life. Relationships, aging, hap- It was a very conscious decision to portray my mother talk about potential dates. She is 70 minutes to it, and with my limited funding piness and struggles are themes that I see these two places as complete opposites. an artist, so we can relate on the struggling and resources, it would never have been pos- myself working with. I also like to see the The portrayal is not necessarily a true rep- artist front. She is currently selling the DVD sible. But I also really just wanted to make a humorous side to topics involving unhappi- resentation of New York versus Reykjavík, of Family Reunion at her store Kirsuberjatréð, short film. I wanted to practice, see if I could ness. but precisely an expression of how our lead Vesturgata 4, for her indebted filmmaker do this, and if I enjoyed it. Finally, do you see yourself as operating character experiences her own environment. daughter. There were times when I realised that I as a filmmaker in Iceland? In order to convey this, we processed the Is there a message or a topic that you’re might have material that could potentially I see myself operating as a filmmaker in Ice- film for the New York scenes using a pro- especially interested in conveying? work for a feature film. I have heard these land, New York and hopefully all over. cess called “skip bleach”, which resulted in I am not sure I ever set out to convey a specif- types of comments at screenings in the past a more grainy and grungy look. The colours ic message. If so, I would hope to have done few months, and some people have encour- REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_ART/HOUSING_25

Filling the Klink & Bank Gap

Text by Ellen Marie Fodstad Photo by Skari

With 140 artists working under the same rooms, gallery and performance spaces, re- involved in Klink & Bank. Almost half the “We are working on a book about the roof for almost two years, Klink & Bank was cording studios and construction workshops time no one even knew who had the key to two years of the house. But there are 5- 5,000 square metres of artistic energy. Later, on three floors. The only rule was that the the building and practical matters like who 6,000 images to go through, and it takes the house was sold. What happens now? space should not be used commercially. should take out the garbage started to be- time. There has been a lot of international When I returned to Reykjavík a year ago come a problem. But from the anarchy and interest, several documentaries about the On the second day of my first visit to Reyk- I went to the same address. The doors were chaos, a genuine artistic experiment was development of it has been aired abroad. javík, I visited the house at Brautarholt 1. locked. The artists at Klink & Bank were only born. I’m going to Brussels in a few days, to speak Somebody had told me there was a free offered the space for a limited time. First “What happened in Klink & Bank was about Klink & Bank actually. We have also concert there. I opened the door and to my it was a year, later extended for six more that people from different fields like music, been a part of exhibitions in other countries surprise there was no concert hall or bar in months. The last people left their studios in visual art and dance got to know each other and lately there has been talk about a gipsy sight. I walked through room after room, November 2005. and it influenced their artistic work. One train.” went up and down floors, saw drawings, I met Erling Klingenberg, one of the eight could see all kinds of art working in the same A train? That will be a challenge. pictures, music gear and graffiti, costumes “No, I mean a train of busses and trucks of and empty cups. Then a guitar started play- artists, designers, musicians, dancers and ac- ing somewhere far away. I have no sense of tors that will perform and have exhibitions direction but I let my ears guide me. Finally I Klink & Bank opened in March 2004, housing art through Europe. People can join or get off made it into a big room where people were studios, rehearsal rooms, gallery and performance where ever they like to. We have already sitting in couches listening to a solo guitar started to organise it, but at the same time player on a stage. He had long hair and a spaces, recording studios and construction work- we are still breathing out after the craziness pained expression. Later I started talking to of the house. Hopefully the gypsy train will somebody, a Finnish couple gave me some shops on three floors. The only rule was that the happen by 2010.” vodka, and a girl invited me to a birthday space should not be used commercially. As I sit and write this, I can picture an old party and there was some dancing. Back rusty ship full of busses and trucks, leaving home I would tell my friends that everyone Iceland and crossing the Atlantic Ocean. On in Reykjavik was an artist. the deck some people dressed in white are In 2003, Landsbanki Íslands offered artists behind the Kling & Bang gallery that space; people started working together on dancing. Others have started to spray paint young artists in Reykjavík the use of a big was responsible for Klink & Bank, to hear projects. It was an inspiration to see what the trucks in different colours. At the front and unused industrial building the bank had what happened to all this artistic energy all the people where working on. The house deck there is a band playing and a man in a acquired in downtown Reykjavík. The bank when the house was sold and all the artists created a communication between different cowboy hat is working on a canvas, naked. A contacted a group of young artists who had had moved out. types of art and opened up new types of col- woman is filming the sky. The captain of the recently opened a gallery on Laugavegur by “We needed to breathe after it was all laboration. The inspiration and communica- ship is scratching his ear, with a look on his the name Kling & Bang. They offered the use over. To digest. During the nearly two years tion continued to develop after the people face that expresses dismay and his hope that of the building, free of charge, for one year. of residence there were many exhibitions, had to move out. There are small groups their trip will be a short one. Together they decided to put ads in every touring concerts, theatre and dance, a rough from Klink & Bank who have gotten studios Look out; the Klink & Bank gypsy train newspaper in the country for two days, of- average of three events per week. There was together today.” might soon arrive in a town close to you. fering people studio space. Out of 500 re- a crazy energy and productivity, which might Despite the relative success of the proj- plies 140 artists, designers, filmmakers and not have been as intense if we would have ect, there are no plans to repeat the experi- musicians were chosen. Klink & Bank opened had the place on a permanent basis. ment in the same manner, but the people in March 2004, housing art studios, rehearsal Erling says there was little organisation involved are still reaping the benefits. 26_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_INTERVIEW/FILMS

They tell me, “It’s not true, how can you say that? What will the world think about us when they see the movie?” I reply: “What is the world thinking about what we have done?” So I’m always attacked for not show- ing Serbia the way they want us to show it.”

The Actor The Serbian actor Lazar Ristovski plays a big role in all these films. Ristovski, most famous for his role in Emir Kusturica’s Underground, is a charismatic actor, possibly the most rec- ognizable of Serbian actors, armed with a menacing glare and a kind heart. “He’s a very strong actor so you have to really hold him back sometimes. It probably worked better in Midwinter Night’s Dream, because he was so completely dedicated to that film and we spent a lot of time working with the actors. When you are in the presence of this girl (Jovana Mitic) you never know what she’s gonna do, so it’s a very special atmosphere. I knew how she was going to act from time to time because I started to know her very well and she had complete confidence in me but you cannot communicate with her. You can’t say do this or do that. You just have to put the camera on her and suppose what she is going to do and then catch these fantastic moments when she is completely spontane- ous.” It wasn’t easy for Ristovski either. “I actu- ally said to Lazar: “Listen, you don’t have to meet the girl now, you’re going to meet her in front of the camera. And the scene when he enters the apartment and they meet for the first time is really authentic. And after that I was shooting some other scenes while I gave him seven days to know Jovana, the girl, better. It was hard work and a challeng- ing experiment for him. In The Optimists I had to hold him back more, because he is so strong and I need to give all the other characters some space, there are some 45 The Optimistic Serb actors in the film. So it’s always a fight with Lazar, because he’s strong and he can be even more strong then necessary and that Text by Ásgeir H. Ingólfsson Photos by Leó Stefánsson has happened sometimes. But I think his best work is Midwinter’s Night Dream. He abso- lutely entered into the character and it was a The Reykjavík Grapevine met with the Ser- tickets I went inside and watched the films. and ultimately a desperate plea by Paskaljevic fantastic period for us. It’s more than just a bian film director Goran Paskaljevic in a cosy Some I watched five or six times. I watched himself to his nation. film, it was a human experience.” downtown hotel in Reykjavík. The surround- the masterpieces of Jean Renoir and many “When doing The Powder Keg I wanted ings are a world away from his most recent other great masters. That’s where I fell in love to express the violence that surrounded us Candid Optimism films, a trilogy of sorts about Serbia during with films and decided to become a director when Milosevic was in power. The war had His most recent film, The Optimists (Optimis- and after the war. The two latest ones are because I found that through films I could just finished and he started to make aggres- ti) opened this fall. It takes place in recent- Midwinter Night’s Dream (San zimske noci) express myself much better than through sions in Kosovo. After Milosevic fell from day Serbia but much of the inspiration came and The Optimists (Optimisti). The name of literature. I remember De Sica’s The Bicycle power and was sent to Hague many of us from a 250-year-old French novel, Voltaire’s the third one, Bure baruta in Serbian, The Thief (Ladri di bicicletti), I remember crying that had immigrated returned. Most of us Candide. “I stated that I didn’t believe in Powder Keg and sometimes Cabaret Balkan and being so moved by it. But I wonder if came back to our country full of hope, but it fake optimism. We have elections in Serbia in English. anyone in Iceland can relate to the title?” he didn’t last. In 2003 the Prime Minister, Zoran in December, and there and everywhere in “It was originally a theatre play written by adds. I assure him that even if it’s not a com- Djindjic, was killed. He had sent Milosevic to the world, politicians are trumpeting fake Dejan Dukovski, a young Macedonian writer. mon profession here due to lack of bicycles the Hague and the war profiteers who had optimism, everything must be positive. Filip I worked with him on the screenplay and we we do have some thieves like that. “ started to buy their way back into Serbia David, a writer I often work with, told me changed it a lot but the title always remained After that I wanted to study film and were responsible for the assassination. They that if I wanted to do something with that The Powder Keg and that was the title when my stepfather, being knowledgeable about are still there. When Djindjic, who was also a I should read Candide again. So I started to it opened in Venice. Then Paramount Classics the matter, told me about FAMU, the film very dear friend of mine, was killed I started think about the theme. I read Candide and bought it to distribute in America and a cou- school in Prague, is. But it was hard to get to lose hope. How can you live freely in this was completely amazed by how modern it ple of months later they called and said we into. Out of between 100 and 150 applicants country if they kill the Prime Minister in the was. That somebody in Serbia is ready to use couldn’t use that title because Kevin Costner they choose maybe ten. But I got in.” For street? I felt that as a society we are going it as an inspiration for a modern film, 250 had registered the title for a new film of his, those readers who do not recognise FAMU, through a kind of autism, metaphorically years after it was written, that shows a re- that incidentally never happened. It was ab- the school’s alumni also includes such dis- speaking. Then I started thinking about real ally strong spirit for a book. Then I imagined surd, there were already articles and reviews tinguished filmmakers as Milos Forman, autism and went to the hospital and met this the film with a hypnotist travelling to Serbia, about The Powder Keg in Variety and other Paskaljevic’s fellow Serb Emir Kusturica, Ice- little girl and fell absolutely in love (Jovana helping depressed people to get out of their places, but Costner didn’t want to give it up landic director Börkur Gunnarsson and many Mitic, who plays the autistic girl in the film), depression. But the script quickly became and we had to change the title. I hated Cost- more. she’s adorable. Then I met her parents and very complicated and with the first draft it ner at that time,” he adds with a grin. spent a couple of months with them and would have been far too expensive. I was Autistic Nation then decided to do the film.” pretty downcast about it but then Vladimir, The Stepfather’s Cinematheque The second film of the trilogy, Midwinter How did the Serbians react to being my son, told me to read his unfinished book. Paskaljevic was born in Belgrade but at the Night’s Dream, is a very different from the characterised as autistic? “It wasn’t easy, you He had a lot of similar themes there, even a age of two his parents separated and he others despite being part of the same trilogy. know. At the premiere there was a big ap- story called The Optimists. So I read his un- moved to his grandparents’ home in Niš, in Not least because of Lazar’s speech, a tale of plause, but at the premiere you have your finished book of nine short stories and he re- the south of what is now Serbia. As a teen- a soldier who has witnessed scenes so hor- friends present, even if you also sell some ally became a good writer, you know. Then I ager he returned to live in the capital. He had rible in the Serbian-Croatian war, they have tickets. And when we went outside a couple proposed to him that we’d make a screenplay ambitions of becoming a writer and at the driven him mad. Mad and out of the army. of people shouted at me: “Traitor! Traitor!” together and make the film episodic, an om- age of 15 wrote a book of poetry, but admits When the film starts, ten years have passed It wasn’t just that I made a metaphoric film nibus that Ristovski later tied together play- that reading the verses now he sees he didn’t and he is a changed man, out of prison, a about autism. It’s when Lazar delivers the ing different characters in each episode.” have the talent for it. gentle soul that for the twists of fate finds a speech about what happened to him in the The connection between literature and “My grandmother was sick so I went woman and her autistic daughter in his home war, why he left. It was the first time that film is interesting in the Paskaljevic fam- back to Belgrade to live with my mother and when he returns. The speech is Lazar’s dark a Serbian director or artist said: let’s admit ily. Goran’s father was a writer, he himself my stepfather. My stepfather made the pro- night of the soul, and while nothing is really it, we committed horrible crimes in the war. wanted to become a writer but became a grams for the cinematheque. He had been a shown, the dialogue and Lazar Ristovski’s The story Lazar narrates is a true story. I had director and for the son it was the other way journalist earlier but had problems with the delivery of it is tense enough to make it an wanted to do something about the war and around. “He did a couple of shorts and he authorities so he ended up working there, unforgettable cinematic experience. I interviewed people about it while prepar- couldn’t get the money for his first feature but that suited him fine. He knew film his- But it is also a love story, a story of a man ing another movie, one that never got made. and I wasn’t sure he had a very good script. tory perfectly and it was his passion. I myself that finds a woman to love and a little girl to And I got this story from a man who had lost I told him that your first film must be some- had no money and no friends in Belgrade so fight for. While dancing with Jovana, Marija’s both his legs. While running away after de- thing great. It doesn’t matter if you are 30 I went to the cinematheque all the time. He autistic daughter, he desperately whispers serting the army, having fled the scene de- or 35 when doing your first film, don’t rush. gave me a small job there, to collect the tick- into her ear: “Wake up, wake up!” But we scribed in the movie, he paused for a breath You need to have a cheap project, but at the ets at the entrance, and after collecting the feel it’s not only for her, it’s also for himself, and stepped on a mine, losing both legs. same time an excellent project. And then he REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_INTERVIEW/FILMS_27 started to write because he’s really a good writer, for me writing is... my father was a writer. And me and my son went through the father and son period when we didn’t speak for a year, it’s normal, you have to kill your fa- ther.” He lets out a hearty laugh, somewhere in there is that strange mix of affection and conflict that seems to characterise not only his films but his nation. “And then he came back to me and we worked together very closely on this script and he’s very proud of it, he’s fighting for the film even more than me.” But while inspired by Candide, The Opti- mists is far from being an adaptation. It com- prises five stories, the first and the last epi- sode having the strongest ties to Voltaire’s novel. In the first story a hypnotist travels to a flooded town and tries to hypnotise the entire village from their depression, often paraphrasing the mantra of Candide’s tutor Pangloss: “All is for the best in the best of all possible worlds.” Then there is the final episode that features a bus full of people that are either blind, deaf, crippled or have some other affliction that faith healers see as a marketing opportunity. Travelling to a lake that is supposed to heal all their ills they are abandoned by their guide and go on foot, searching for the magical lake, finding a pool of mud. And they are happy in the mud, blissful even.” In Toronto they asked his son Vladimir, the writer, how a young man could be so dark. The 31-year-old Vladimir told them: “Listen, in my generation, my friends, five percent were killed in the war and sometimes it feels all the rest moved abroad.” He echoes average salary is around 300 Euros. So it’s And then there is the unresolved con- be able to travel around both in the east and his father, who has stated that his films never very hard for them. I read a study that stated flict, a little place called Kosovo. “When The the west. We were never a hardline com- have happy endings because they don’t have that only about 20 percent of them, even Powder Keg opened in Venice I was inter- munist country. Tito was very clever, he held happy endings in his country. “You can not less, had been abroad. Even counting neigh- viewed there and openly criticised the policy the country together without killing people. live in Serbia with all these troubles and not bouring countries like Hungary. So we have a in Kosovo. I felt it was completely wrong and They put some people in jail and you were reflect on what’s going on.” It wasn’t always generation that has never travelled, that can that Milosevic was leading us into a whole not completely free to do as you pleased but thus, he even made one comedy before the not compare our way of life to anything else. new war. For that they attacked me on the it’s not like now when war criminals are mil- war when Serbia was still just one part of old It’s hard for them to see through all the pro- front pages of all the newspapers that were lionaires. You don’t need a political party in Yugoslavia. But this war changed everybody, paganda.” controlled by Milosevic at the time, they Serbia. If you have 100,000,000 Euros in the created new borders and a new kind of film. I ask him if this generation consider them- called me a traitor and said that if I was not in bank you are a very powerful man. You can selves more Serbian than the ones before jail I should shoot myself if I had any honour. buy power and bribe people.” Radical Nationalism them. “Yes, the nationalism is deeper now, Some intellectuals were just shot like that in And it’s a hard cycle to break. “Those that We continue to connect the dots between that’s what scares me. Because they listen the streets after similar articles. So I stayed go abroad are hard workers, good workers. our two respective countries. “Serbia is a to the radio and the television all day telling abroad for awhile, first in France and then I was amazed in Toronto when they told me pretty aggressive country. The people are them that we’re not guilty, that it was the I got the opportunity to make a film in Ire- that they had 80,000 Serbian expatriates, not happy. But there is something in their western world that put us in this position. land.” The situation in Kosovo is still fragile. mostly young educated people. I met this girl character that has been there for centuries And they start to believe it. They are simply “We did horrible things in Kosovo, but after who is a secretary. She has her diploma and is I feel, the reaction that if somebody is suc- apathetic. They don’t vote, which scares me the bombing campaign, when they signed much more clever than any secretary I know, cessful they want to push him down to the a lot. That’s why the radical party, which is some sort of a peace treaty, the Albanians in but she said: “Listen, it’s a big company, a same level everybody else is on. “How can aligned with Milosevic’s party and are ultra- Kosovo did horrible things to the Serbs also. film distribution company. If I do well I will this guy do better than us?” they think and nationalist, has around 35 percent support But the Serbs are officially guilty so it will be progress very fast here. So she’s ready to do do whatever they can to pull him down. Here at the polls. Why? Because only 40 percent problematic. It will create a big Albania on the work. If you’d ask her to be a secretary it seems to be the opposite. If somebody is of the population is likely to vote. The others the map. They are against big Serbia, or Cro- in Belgrade she’d never accept it because she doing well, everybody is supportive.” just say: “I don’t care, they are all the same.” atia, and they will give Kosovo independence knows that there she would stay a secretary He continues: “I think jealousy and hate This radical party and those ex-Milosevic and in 10, 20 years they’ll unite. But I think forever. You must see some hope. But how have in a way become an illness in Serbia forces still control the secret police to a large the hope for all Balkan countries is Europe, can you have hope in Serbia if your salary is because we are so poor and isolated now. degree. And those that do go usually don’t the EU. Once when all these borders, which 300 Euros and you have to pay 400 Euros We were much richer before but after all the return. Ten years ago a big wave of educated belong to the 19th century, don’t matter any- for an apartment? Most young people still conflicts the economy and the infrastructure young people left the country, mostly for more a lot of problems will be solved. Serbia live with their parents. I believe everybody has been destroyed. So the new generation Canada, because they didn’t have any op- without Kosovo is already strong enough to in their twenties should leave their parents’ just wants to go out. And we can hardly portunities in Serbia. That’s great for the rad- enter the EU. But it will need another genera- house, but they simply can not afford it.” travel because getting a visa is an enormous ical party because they deal very well with tion. Maybe in 30, 40 years.” Despite all this, Goran Paskaljevic is quietly problem. At four o’clock in the morning the uneducated people, they don’t need the He misses the old Yugoslavia and the freedom optimistic. He keeps on struggling, making you’ll see people waiting in front of embas- educated people to wake the country up.” and prosperity they once had. “Serbia was a honest films about his homeland, stories sies just to be able to see their relatives. And The time to wake up, to see the world and leader in the region, the whole of Yugosla- about all their contradictory traits, what is even if those young people get the visas they change their world, is now. Perhaps some- via. A beautiful country full of diversities, my that but hope? Optimism even. don’t have the money to travel because the thing Paskaljevic’s films can help with? generation was proud to be Yugoslavian, to 28_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_TRAVEL/TALLINN

Poro (a major hotel in Levi whose name translates from the Finnish as Crazy Rein- deer), apartment-style accommodations that sleep four can be found next door and come with washer and kitchen, run around 80 Euros. I can only assume that my sans- heat experience in such accommodations is not the norm, and hope that the same goes for the hotel giving a copy of my room key to a confused young man who arrived in the middle of the night claiming he lived there. Both these rooms and many in the hotels come with the added bonus of (what else?) an in-room sauna. As it turns out, and perhaps not all that surprisingly, there isn’t much to do in Levi, except for skiing, both alpine and Nordic, and engagin in the après ski life that goes into the wee hours. For the posh, the Spa Hotel offers a variety of ways to pamper oneself in the harsh climate if sauna alone fails to satisfy. Though I realise my bias as a ski fanatic may be a handicap in reviewing, I can’t see what else anyone could want from such a village. I spent my two days there attempting to accomplish the two things there are to do. My first day on the slopes I explored those closest to my hotel. Ticket prices are under 20 Euros per day, a rock-bottom price when compared to those charged by major resorts in the Alps. Of course, I lost one of my poles on my first ride up, though luckily, it was the only time. Something about the weather condi- tions in Levi had made the recently fallen snow harden in picturesque clumps on all of An Eclectic Visit to the Lapland & Tallinn the trees. The extension of white from the ground up into the surreal shapes of foli- age lining the ski hills and lifts was nothing Text by Virginia Zech Photos by Sari Peltonen short of incredible. Now, if only it weren’t for those damn billboards lining the sides of the first lift (admittedly, many of which had Finland has a lot to offer adventurous tour- from Helsinki to Kolari, the end of the line. ists for domestic transport, has kept tickets also been whited-out), the view would have ists willing to ride some of the country’s Passengers’ options on the overnight train to the Lapland comparatively high. Because been spectacular. trains, ferries, and busses in search of at- were sleeping compartments, seated trans- of this, and somewhat to the chagrin of My second day I made my way to the tractions outside Helsinki. As Europe’s third port, and the bar car. This being a special Finns – some of whom have explored rela- steeper side of Levi’s ski slopes. A gondola most sparsely populated country, getting train bound towards the Alpine Skiing World tively little of their native country’s wilder- services the top of the mountain here and off the beaten path in Finland isn’t difficult Cup, there was also a disco complete with ness – the Lapland has remained pristine the run used for the World Cup, the Levi and options abound. DJ. Having befriended some Finns on the through its relative costliness to reach. The Black. On an icy day, like the one I had, the Between the Suomenlinna Islands off platform who were carrying skis, I spent the region is also home to Finland’s indigenous steep terrain warrants some finely tuned Helsinki’s shores, a lengthier trip to Santa’s evening in the bar of the disco car partaking people, the Sami or Lappish (though the edges. For anyone toting a pair of sharp Post Office, or to Finland’s other major cit- in a Finnish favourite, hard apple cider, be- latter term is not always considered favour- race skis Levi might offer near-perfect train- ies and cultural centres – Oulu, Turku and fore sleeping my way into some tremendous able). The Sami people are spread to the ing conditions. For the rest of the ski com- Tampere: planning a trip to this northeast- neck pain in my small assigned seat. west across Norway and Sweden and to the munity, there is certainly terrain in one place ern corner of Europe will not leave visitors Skis in hand, I transferred to the second east all the way into Russia. In Finland there or another suitable for most levels of skiers, short on options. For those seeking a va- leg of my journey in the morning. The bath- are spoken in small numbers three different though those with a penchant for dropping cation with an international escape hatch, roomless bus that bore me from Kolari the native Sami languages, none of which are off anything that could be qualified as a cliff Sweden, Estonia and Russia are all a short rest of the way to Levi wove its way down considered nationally official. might find it wanting. sea voyage away from Helsinki as well. snow-covered roads at a blistering pace. Be- Levi was host to this year’s Alpine Ski- My personal quest for excitement out- ing as the Lapland hosts a World Cup race, I ing World Cup opener. The entire town was Après Ski Extravaganza side the country’s largest city first led me have to say that the scenery getting there is booked out for the event this November. Dedicated to the idea of finding the infa- north, far into the Finnish Lapland and well shockingly flat. This is not to say that those Snow sport enthusiasts from all over the mous nightlife, I started my last evening in above the Arctic Circle, to the ski village who can won’t enjoy the passing view. world make the trek to Levi for, well, snow. Levi late and rested, after a long nap.. I had of Levi. My second search took me south, Adorable wooden houses, reindeer, the oc- Its reliability is a perk, particularly early in seen a dozen or so revellers stumbling up across the Gulf of Finland, to the medieval casional folks snowshoeing and Nordic ski- the season when cold enough weather can the the Hulu Poro Arena driveway on my Estonian capital of Tallinn. Cheap, beauti- ing, and snow-covered evergreens compose be unreliable in the Alps. Levi’s reputation way to the Cantina. To say that it was much ful old town Tallinn offers an aesthetic step more or less the entirety of the landscape. as the “best après ski in Finland” certainly larger inside than it appeared from the park- back in time without sacrificing any of the can’t hurt its prospects as a winter get- ing lot would be a major understatement. services one would expect from a small Pristine Lapland away. Two levels, multiple bars, and dance floor modern city. According to the locals, competition for I found that booking lodging in advance the size of a roller skating rink, were filled The endless train ride that began my travel to destinations elsewhere in Scandi- can make it absurdly affordable for a ski by a live DJ and a couple hundred enthusi- journey took 13 hours and transported me navia and mainland Europe, while none ex- town. Besides the hostel run by the Hulu astic dancers and debauchees, in the aptly

Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_TRAVEL/TALLINN_29 named Arena. I spent a few hours enjoying the karaoke-free sound system, reasonably priced Finnish beer, and company of the in- credibly friendly ski-enthusiastic Finns, be- fore the bar closed around 2 and I had to go “home” to pack. There were no trains leaving Kolari dur- ing the three-day window I had given the attendant when I bought my tickets in Hel- sinki. I had to settle for a longer bus ride to Rovaniemi, where I laid over and ate a rein- deer pizza, before beginning the rail por- tion of my return to the capital. Many Finns will tell the inquisitive visitor that going over to Estonia is one of the best things to do while in Finland. So, after a night’s layover in Helsinki, I was off to Tallinn by “ferry”. Aboard the ferry, estaurants catering to several price ranges, smoky onboard bars, dance floors, airport-size duty-free shops, a pool and sauna complex, grocery store, and mini casino, among other attractions, filled the space that wasn’t taken up by reserved rooms. Why a boat ride that lasts only three and a half hours would require so many pri- vate compartments is beyond me, but they proved quite popular. Through every open door music, conversation, and the clinking Russian is widely spoken and understood at pire. Though controversial as a reminder of one of those mythical spreads with beauti- of glasses could be heard and many swag- a basic level in Estonia, it is not always wel- Russian influence, the cathedral has been ful girls dancing all night long on platforms gered out of the compact suites, carrying come. The man woke loudly, quickly began restored to all its shining, gilded glory since for all to behold. If you ever make it to this their parties into the narrow hallways. yelling about the unavailability of beds for Estonian independence from the USSR. club be sure to check out the ladies room (if When we came into port in Tallinn I re- the coming night (Tallinn often books out A rather gruesome painting of John the applicable). The sinks in there were actually claimed my luggage early from the baggage on weekends) and, after banging around Baptist’s head on a platter, hung obscurely set on a large fish tank. check and waited for the doors to open, for several minutes, took his one piece of above eye level and off to one side, held my We spent much of the following after- afraid of missing whatever transport lay luggage – a beer – and departed. attention for a couple of minutes. Otherwise noon loitering in the village square admiring ahead in the mob of eager weekend tour- I found my companions from the previ- I was generally, as always, overwhelmed by the gigantic, unlit Christmas tree and watch- ists. While I waited, an elderly gentleman ous evening in the lounge downstairs and the glittering gold surfaces and the smell of ing the children crawling around behind the came and placed his suitcase on the floor we took to the street in an effort to capital- incense and candles found in Russian and branches at the base. Petite, portable sheds next to me, looking haggard. After unzip- ise on the few daylight hours we had left for Eastern Orthodox churches. selling everything from honey to handicrafts ping the front pocket he took out a flask, tourism. We found signs to a place called to Julglogg were already, in mid November, drank deeply, and came up looking much the Kiek in de Kok Museum which, based on Party Like a Local, filling the square for the Christmas season. refreshed. On the gangplank off the ship I the name, sounded more interesting to us Party ‘til You Drop Among these charming huts was what may saw a woman lying on the ground with two than anything else. A branch of the Tallinn Tallinn by night, keeping in mind this was be the world’s tiniest Indian food restau- security officers standing over her, appar- city museum displaying cannons and other a weekend, was as raucous as the day was rant. Having no idea what Julglogg tasted ently unable to make it from ship to shore. artefacts from Estonia’s medieval past, Kiek quiet. Not yet sick of karaoke after Finland, like, and feeling it was my duty to try it, I Clearly, my compatriots were here to party: in de Kok proved worth the walk and small our group found a table at one of several bought a cup and almost choked on the rai- hard, inexpensively and, so far, sloppily. entry fee. A highly informative video on the bars catering to the favourite evening activ- sins and almond slivers I swallowed on my The cheery mob was nowhere to be tower that houses the museum and its dis- ity. Shortly before one of our company, a first gulp of the warm, spiced wine. found when I stepped into the brisk air out- plays is available on request and has English student from Toronto, gave a rendition of The following morning was my last in Es- side the ferry terminal and I had no trouble subtitles. Its amusingly costumed narrator Country Roads to much local applause, my tonia, despite a strong reluctance to leave. finding a cab into the old town where I was says “Kiek in de Kok” a gratifying number beer was stolen from its spot on the table I spent my day doing reruns of my favou- staying. Following the lead of one of my of times. In the museum’s basement we in front of me. Baffled but not deterred, I rites in the town: grabbing another plate of hostel-mates in Helsinki, I elected to book found photos taken by an Estonian journal- bought another just in time to clap along to those irresistible meatballs from the Hell’s a bed at the OldHouse hostel in Tallinn. ist of Moscow’s final days of communism She’ll Be Comin’ Round the Mountain. The Hunt, wandering the streets of the old city Enough good things cannot possibly be said that were definitely worth a look. frenzied enthusiasm for this song, I need until I was satisfied that they were indeed about this hostel. Next we wandered up the narrow cob- hardly mention, I found a bit mysterious. all beautiful. Bidding goodbye to my new Hungry and thirsty, I headed to an estab- bled streets to get a view of whole city Our group ended the evening at the im- friends, I made for the bus terminal. lishment named the Hell’s Hunt with a small from higher ground. The stark contrast of pressive club Hollywood, housed in a pil- group of other like-minded hostel patrons. Tallinn’s medieval old city, and the high rise lared marble edifice. I found that Estonians Reportedly the first bar in independent Esto- skyline of the Radisson and other new edi- are, perhaps reasonably, indifferent or even nia (meaning since 1991, after the fall of the fices being constructed not two kilometres annoyed by the presence of tourists, as Tal- The best way Soviet Union), the Hell’s Hunt serves local as away from where I stood was a confusing linn is flooded each weekend with a new to get to Tallinn: well as house brews and delicious food. The sight. Tallinn’s old town has been a UNESCO batch of European vacationers eager to en- meatballs drew us back for another round protected World Heritage Site since 1997, joy a weekend away without the expense of Icelandair flies directly to Stock- two days later. meaning that the shining example of pre- many other destinations. If this is the rea- holm, where connecting flights served medieval architecture will not meet son that Hollywood has a second VIP level and ferries to Tallinn are abun- The Kiek in de Kok the same glass and steel fate of the city’s that you can’t talk or buy your way into, I dant. I woke late on my first full day in Tallinn. My newer developments. don’t know but, after running up the stairs room was empty save for a sleeping Russian In the quickly dwindling daylight we made to check it out when security walked briefly tourist. It took the girl working the front for Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a large in another direction, I didn’t find any differ- desk about half an hour of poking and ex- Russian Orthodox church that was com- ence there from the first floor except the claiming in Russian to rouse him. Given the pleted at the turn of the 20th century when vantage point and lack of dance floor. And, history, it may not be surprising that though the country was a part of the Russian Em- speaking of dance floors, Hollywood had

SALT Lounge Bar HAPPY HOUR Wednesdays and Fridays 17:00- 20:00 Located in the heart of Reykjavik Draught Beer (Small)...... 350kr World Cuisine with Prime Draught Beer (Large) ...... 500kr Icelandic Ingredients Mojito ...... 700kr Cuba Libra ...... 700kr Cosmopolitan...... 700kr Espresso Martini...... 700kr Sex on the Beach...... 700kr Long Island Iced Tea...... 700kr Whiskey Sour ...... 700kr Apple Martini...... 700kr Black/White Russian...... 700kr Becks Bucket of Beer (4 for 3)...... 3800kr

New Menu in January What are you doing after work? 30_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_LONESOME TRAVELLER/SKAGAFJÖRÐUR

– the somehow celebrated one and only lo- cal bar, occasionally hosting remarkable live music events – and I had to feel content with the rather discomforting coffee one is usually served at any gas station. Although the island of Drangey keeps stealing the horizon away from the coast, Sauðárkrókur’s real landmark is represented by Tindastóll, the mighty massif towering straight above the Ocean’s waters, only a few kilometres north of the town. And at its root, Grettislaug, the hot spring pool where Grettir the Strong supposedly bathed, after swimming the four miles of sea that sepa- rated the coast from his refuge on the islet of Drangey. Immersion into the pool’s water felt comfortably warm, but the idea of an oce- anic swim could only evoke cold thoughts. I found overnight accommodation at a farmhouse in Hegranes, a short way east of Sauðárkrókur. Again, I didn’t really have to struggle for space with fellow visitors, find- ing myself as the only guest in an overly comfortable six-person cottage. And again, further historical reminders around me: for some three centuries, Hegranes used to be an assembly site, where the chieftainships of Skagafjörður met to hold festivities, as well as settle feuds and legal cases. One of these assemblies was also the occasion for one of Grettir’s most infamous exploits. Waking up to a glorious dawn the next day convinced me that pulling eastwards and avoiding the blizzard had actually been a wise decision. Staring at a morning sun raising among conically-shaped mountains, Exploring the Historic Sights of Grettissaga piercing the clouds, and casting its warmth over a white-clad country can be a most ful- filling sight (especially after a pleasant sleep): Text by Fabrizio Frascaroli Photo by Fabrizio Frascaroli it’ll be an uncomfortable season, but winter at these latitudes can definitely have its mo- ments. “It’s not the destination, it’s the journey”, the forecast – if it still was to be trusted – The exploration of the Icelandic past and its have you ever heard that one? Even upon ar- was giving fair weather over the north-cen- remains is largely an immersion into the cruel Heading Home rival at Keflavík International Airport the trav- tral part of the country for the next few days. and inspiring world of the sagas, an in-be- Þingeyrar is referred to as one of the funda- eller is reminded of the Chatwinesque saying, An initial sense of malaise accompanied me tween territory where myth and historical mental historical locations in Iceland. Once as it stands out on the Hertz Car Rental ads as my plans went up in the air. truth find themselves inextricably blended. the site of an important monastery, today along the corridors. And yet, in the case of As one travels in the midst of Icelandic National history here seems inscribed into only a 19th-century church is left on the Icelandic winter, that same statement could winter, erratic and sometimes prohibitive the evocative power of the toponyms, as spot, inspiring in its solitude as it stands out be taken as a warning or witty advice, rather weather conditions represent only one of they recall the deeds of a hero, the refuge of in the magnificent surroundings: on the east- than a philosophical outlook on the experi- the possible sources of surprises – gener- an outlaw, the occurrence of a prodigy… In ern side the imposing Víðidalsfjall massif, on ence of visiting places. Even when travelling ally, the least welcome. Another class of such a context, the visitor is not summoned the western one the Hóp lagoon, flat and by car, sudden waves of cold and bad weath- unforeseen events can be brought along by to stand in awe before monumental vestiges smooth like a mirror in a windless day. er can actually play havoc with the plans of other factors and circumstances, such as, of a glorious past, but rather to fill in the Even more fascinating I found the visit to the most intrepid and systematic journey- the facts that the tourist flow is nearly null gaps in the landscape, drawing from their Borgarvirki, a mysterious fortress-like natural man: as the snow and the ice sever all com- at this time of the year, and that Iceland re- own knowledge and imagination. enclosure, formed by tall columns of basalt. munication, access to (and escape from!) mains a country characterised by a very high The territory between Bjarg and Despite being an established archaeological entire localities becomes indeterminately and diffused sense of trust. As I reached the Sauðárkrókur – the largest settlement in site (traces of human activity have been certi- forbidden, until conditions get favourable for Sæberg youth hostel in Hrútafjörður, what I the whole region – is all a dense collection fied) its purpose is still obscure. As often in the Road Administration’s snowploughs to found was – not so unexpectedly – an utterly of similar locations, backdrops to Grettir’s Iceland, legend and history intertwine, and do their job. In this sense, a well-architected unlit white building, almost camouflaged in roaming and violent deeds. All the way to tradition from the saga wants Borgarvirki to trip is not necessarily the one relying on ac- the snowy surroundings. No sign of life. A Drangey, in the middle of the Skagafjörður have been a military defence post – the only curate and defined plans, but rather entailing note on the door suggested contacting the fjord, the inaccessible islet where the saga castle in the country, as the information plate no plans at all. Being ready to change route warden by phone. hero found first refuge and eventually his at the parking lot proudly recites. Whatever at any time in order to avoid the blizzard, “Good evening. I am travelling around, doom, betrayed by witchcraft and by his un- the case, the place holds a strong, arcane lending space to flexibility and improvisa- would it be possible to get sleeping bag ac- trustworthy slave. charm, and on such a clear day as the one tion, privileging the fact of moving around commodation at the hostel for tonight?” While the island of Drangey can be I was luckily given to enjoy, the view from over reaching prefixed destinations, being “Sure, just go in and pick your room. The reached by ferry only during summer, it of- the top can be utterly stunning, as the gaze content with what discoveries the course of door is open. Have a good sleep.” fers – together with its sheer, impregnable effortlessly reaches the highlands of Kjölur, events will lead to – under particular circum- If I was amazed to find the door unlocked cliffs – a most spectacular sight throughout and the great Langjökull and Eiríksjökull gla- stances, these represent the founding pillars – I hadn’t tried the chance myself – I was even the winter months, as it appears frightening- ciers. of organisational wisdom. more amazed by being let alone the whole ly close in the cold arctic light. It first revealed The completely still weather and starlit I became most acutely aware of this sim- time: nobody showed up, neither to make its presence to me as I drove my way around sky I enjoyed on the way to Reykjavík felt ple truth – and of the joys offered by roam- sure all was in order, nor to collect payment the perimeter of the Skagi peninsula – a high- like ironic counterpoints to the strong snow- ing without actual goals – on the occasion for my overnight stay. ly scenic road, along low but menacing cliffs, storm warning that forced me to change the of my last escape from Reykjavík. I had set solitary lighthouses, and scattered farms. course of my trip, just a few days before. out with the intention to reach Látravík in In the Country of Grettir Sculptures of ice adorning the fences, and a And yet, as I thought back, I found no actual the Northwest Fjords, and stand on Europe’s The bays of Hrútafjörður, Miðfjörður, surreal whiteness spread over the land. The reason for complaining about the final out- westernmost point; I found myself drifting Húnafjörður, and Skagafjörður follow one car thermometer read, a not so indulgent, come. After all, there had been something from farm to farm somewhere else, in an al- another in a peaceful and almost lazy succes- –7º outside. It is probably true: when travers- highly revealing to this casual and totally im- most archaeological quest, a few hundred ki- sion, so different from the jagged and ner- ing similar scenery, the pleasure of simply provised itinerary. As a trekker and outdoor lometres away from my original destination. vous inlets of the northwestern coast. They being there can be such, that any thoughts enthusiast, I had never felt much attraction are the maritime border of a vast agricultural about direction and getting somewhere be- for the investigation of historical Iceland: I Challenging the Weather Gods area, renowned for its horses, its farms and come basically irrelevant. Not that I expect to always thought that more about the place is As I left town, the forecast was not omi- its history. While most foreign visitors tend have been so keen on these considerations, told by its nature than by its past. And I will nous. But, as occasionally happens, simply to traverse the region without lingering – a on those very moments: more likely, I was not claim that my outlook has been entirely inaccurate. By the time I reached Búðar- sort of rush-through between Reykjavík and dwelling on concern for the thick layer of ice modified, in the wake of this last experience dalur – almost a midway point on the way Akureyri – Skagafjörður in particular has be- covering the steep track, or on the violent – at least enriched, however, yes: that’s no to the Northwest Fjords – in the afternoon come a favourite with the locals, in virtue of wind drifting the snow towards the North; overstatement. Especially in the short days premature darkness, large flakes of snow the many possibilities for hiking, horseback possibly, on a warm sense of thankfulness of winter, sightseeing and bedtime stories had started descending, already covering all riding, and especially river rafting that a for having a 4WD at my disposal. make up for a most healthy mix, one that by stripes of asphalt in an impenetrable mantle. largely unspoilt nature offers in summertime. Sauðárkrókur may well be the most no means should be underrated. The storm had reached the western coast Quite evidently, none of these activities go populated settlement in the area – and even a couple of days ahead of expectations. I well with the winter harshness, and my visit the second-largest town in North Iceland, called the Road Administration switchboard had to be limited to sightseeing and digging for accuracy’s sake. As I saw it in the dwin- for advice – “It is difficult to make predic- into the area’s historical heritage. dling, blue-hued light of the afternoon, all tions,” they told me, “but if you go forth, be A few kilometres from the main road, lies gathered around its church, however, it just prepared for the eventuality of being stuck the farm Bjarg, birth- and resting place of looked cutely sleepy as a small crib under in the most remote parts of the fjords quite Grettir Ásmundsson, the hero/antihero pro- a bell glass. With a certain disappointment Car provided by Hertz Car Rental, longer than you wish.” I pulled eastwards: tagonist of the Saga of Grettir the Strong. I found the entrance to Kaffi Krókur shut Tel.: 50 50 600.

32_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_TRAVEL/NEW YORK

A Tale Of Two New Year’s

Text by Haukur Magnússon Photo by Skari

In which a Grapevine staff journalist swaps Year’s Eve. I briefly wonder if Iceland’s immi- used analogy. “There were explosions every- at New York University, told us that things apartments with a NY couple in time for nent ban on smoking will bring further drug where,” continues Noah, “the quality of the were off to a slow start inside, but they were 2006’s passing. Both parties end up enjoying indulgence to Reykjavík’s bars before I move fireworks was actually a lot higher than we looking better by the minute. Her friend told themselves and learning some new things, on to some dancing. had expected. Except for this one little kid me that my jacket was cool. I was amused, despite the alien surroundings. who had a crappy firework, a little thing you as people normally don’t say such things to 5 Hours Later, 4205 km Away light up.” Not surprisingly, the couple found strangers where I come from. New York City famously outlawed smoking While this was transpiring, Reykjavík’s New it weird that little kids were setting off explo- Williamsburg White Room seemed ill fit in bars a few years back, a trend that seems Year’s parties had for the most part wound sives all around town, “three year-olds run- for a party. As we entered what amounted very in vogue these days. Indeed, enjoying a down to a halt given the five-hour time dif- ning around with sparklers”. Probably, the to a sort of empty cavern, an old Smiths tune cigarette with your beer in any of Iceland’s ference. Noah and Kim, a lovely Brooklyn custom of exposing little kids to fireworks bounced between the few who had made it bars or restaurants will be illegal come June. couple in their mid- to late twenties who I isn’t the healthiest, although public numbers there by 10 PM. Drinks were cheap, the mu- So no one smokes in New York bars or had traded apartments with for New Year’s, indicate that no more than three or four doz- sic was fine but somehow things never got clubs, and there are no ashtrays visible. A were polishing off their last drinks at a en suffer firework related injuries each year. off the ground. And people kept exchanging little over two hours into 2007, standing on house party they unexpectedly got invited to Walking back to town from Perlan ex- business cards in the drink line. After per- the edge of a crowded dance floor in the while on the way home at their 2 AM. “We posed them to even more little kids with forming, female rap-group Northern State Royal Oak bar of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, this stopped a group of people on Laugavegur to fireworks, they tell me, and they were happy counted down to midnight and the follow- is evident, although some rebellious nicotine see if they would take our picture and they to observe the local families enjoying them- ing orgy of French kissing (“So THIS is how addicts seem to be sneaking drags here and invited us to go along with them, which of selves. “We went to Kaffibarinn, which dis- Americans celebrate New Year’s!”), we de- there. They do an OK job of hiding it, but course we accepted. We wound up going appointingly wasn’t open at all. Sirkús’ 30$ cided to venture to the Royal Oak bar. On the what’s interesting in all of this to touristy- to a couple of house parties, one was at the admission fee seemed like a ploy to get mon- way there it started raining heavily. And we Icelander me is the fact that a lot of people apartment of some artist guy who’s name ey from tourists. So we walked around for a got in, and drank some, danced some and - and I mean a lot – don’t seem at all con- translates as “assfart”, I’m told” says Noah. while before ending up at this place called smoked none. cerned with hiding the act of shovelling what They enjoyed celebrating the New Year Celtic Cross. They were playing some really Noah tells me the couple now prefers I can only assume is Cocaine up their noses. in Reykjavík, to the extent of professing a shitty Beatles covers, which we enjoyed mak- Reykjavík New Year’s celebrations. It struck Colour me shocked! desire to keep coming back, if not moving ing fun of. After a while we decided to go them as more fun. “Like, people having fun A case in point is a 28-year-old sculp- to Iceland entirely. My own New Year’s cel- home and get some rest, and that was actu- and just enjoying each other’s company. In tor whose name I can’t remember. Midway ebration started with me inviting a group ally when the fun started, as we got invited the States, New Year’s is more of an excuse through our conversation, he drags out an of friends (and their friends) over to Noah to parties on the way.” to make out more than anything, while over insanely large bottle of the white stuff and and Kim’s apartment, next to the Brooklyn- there it seemed everybody was having a forms a little hole between his thumb and Queens Expressway, for champagne and Business card fervour! good time. Also, no one did a countdown, the back of his hand, pours some of the take-out Italian food. The party was fun and Back in Brooklyn, New York, a group, contain- which is huge back home.” white stuff in and snorts it up, old Icelan- enlightening; the sincere way the Americans ing myself, stepped out of a taxi in front of My New York New Year’s was a fine one, dic sailor style. He then pauses for a second proclaimed their belief that 2007 would be a the Williamsburg White Room, where a little I met some great people, saw some strange before telling me more of how he’d like to great year after a toast struck me as some- indie-rock scenester celebration called “Re- things and, refreshingly enough, the alco- visit Reykjavík. And that he thinks the music thing I would never catch an Icelander doing. turn of the 12 hour party people” was sup- hol was cheap. And although I did miss the sucks. And that Björk hasn’t done a single We then headed to a club party, described posedly filling up with indie-rock scenesters. fireworks and annual comedic round-up, worthwhile thing since The Sugarcubes. A by New York magazine as “the ultimate year- The cab ride there was an interesting one. Áramótaskaupið, I might even conclude that couple sitting a few feet away from us pro- end destination for indie-rock scenesters” Our driver, an Iranian immigrant in his mid- I prefer it to the Reykjavík manner of ring- ceed to do some bumps. (!). Noah and Kim, however, opted for din- forties, told us in detail how he was enjoy- ing in a new year. But it had nothing on the Royal Oak is by no means a seedy bar. ner at 101 restaurant Café Opera followed ing his life in the U.S., and why he had come Ísafjörður-style I’ve experienced. It is described by the Brooklyn Bar Guide as by a sojourn to Perlan, from whence they there. He also told us that “it’s gotten a lot “classic and intimate […] a great place to un- observed Reykjavík’s attempts at blowing up harder since 9/11”. wind”. And it was, although the trendy DJ the ozone layer with fireworks. A group of people enjoying their ciga- spinning hipster tracks made it kind of hard “It was the craziest thing we’ve seen, like rettes (no coke) outside of the party greeted to unwind should one want to do so on New a war zone” offers Kim, opting for an oft us. Sarah, a 22-year-old philosophy student All back issues available online 1400 articles, listings and daily news from Iceland

Arts | Music | Movies | Dining | Shopping | Traveling Interviews | Local Voice | Columns | Features | Lifestyle | Editorials 34_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 01_2007_PARTING SHOT

An elderly gentleman from New York, enjoying a cigar on the city’s streets.

Classifieds Grapevine Ad Index

Accommodation Café Deco 25 Grundafjörður Hostel 46 Café Kulture 23 Guesthouse Móar Guesthouse Móar 46 Café Roma 5 301 Akranes Reykjavík City Hostel 46 Galbi 25 tel: 431-1389/897-5142 Grundarfjörður Hostel Vík Hostel 46 Hressó 33 e-mail:[email protected] 4 rooms, 9 beds + 2 sum- O Sushi 28 merhouses 1x1 without bath Activities Salt 41 3000ISK sleeping bag acc. Blue Lagoon 40 Shalimar 25 & 29 2000ISK. City Centre Booking Service 48 Sægreifinn 34 Cooking facilities available City Centre Tourist Info 4 Uncle Tom’s Cabin 41 Exit.is 35 comfortable - affordable Reykjavík Excursions 7 Shopping Central in Snæfellsnes Cintamani 3 Cultural Events Naked Ape 12 City Theatre 12 NTC 45 Icelandic Opera 13 Thule 11 Do you want to place [email protected] Iceland Symphony Orchestra 29 a classified ad? Mr. Destiny 14 Transportation www.hostel.is National Theatre 9 & 14 Berg Car Rental 47 +354-5626533 Call 540-3605 or Budget Car Rental 39 +354-8956533 email us at Galleries and Museum Hertz Car Rental 47 Bring THIS AD and [email protected] Laxness Museum 27 Sixt Car Rental 13 get 15% discount! Restaurants, Bars and Cafés Other 2 Fiskar 24 Directorate of Health 33 American Style 25 Nb.is 23 Bernhöftsbakery 33 Discover the wonders of Iceland in a Berg car. ® BERGcar rental Safety all the way!

Check for special offers at your hotel or guesthouse.

BERG

Free pickup at your hotel in the Reykjavík area.

Contact Info: Tel: +354 577 6050 - Fax: +354 567 9195 - Tangarhöfði 8 - www.bergcar.is - [email protected]

The right jeep for a journey in Iceland 0 4 / 2 0 0 6 ÍSLENSKA AUGLÝSINGASTOFAN/SIA.IS HER 33245 06/2006

In Iceland there are many beautiful places to explore that can only be visited with the help of a jeep. Instead of being in a crowded tour bus you can plan a trip on your own. Hertz has a great variety of jeeps and 4WD vehicles to choose from. We have 7 rental locations around Iceland and several service stations along the way. +354 50 50 600 • www.hertz.is

We are your car rental experts in Iceland. Hertz locations in Iceland: Keflavík Airport, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Höfn, Egilsstaðir grapevine.is REYKJAVÍK´S ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER YOUR FREE COPY

ISSUE ONE: JANUARY 12 - FEBUARY 08

Stuffed with stuff “After Milosevic fell from power and was sent to Hague many of us that had immigrated returned. Most of us came back to our country full of hope, but it didn’t last.” Serbian filmmaker Goran Paskaljevic dis- cusses filmmaking in Serbia. Page 38.

“We will have “environ- mental refugees”, some- thing akin to political refu- gees. What other options will there be for people liv- ing in uninhabitable areas, other than migration? If our part of the world is inhabit- able, we will have to accept refugees.” Professor of planning Trausti Valsson dis- cusses global warming. Page 10.

“I spent the evening in the bar of the disco car partak- ing in a Finnish favourite, hard apple cider, before sleeping my way into some tremendous neck pain in my small assigned seat.” Virginia Zech travels with trains. Page 44.

“The intervals between songs got increasingly long- er as the show went on. The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to Various requests for drinks, find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of tuning up, handing out salt Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. pastilles, and looking bored while the crowd got in- creasingly thinner, dragged Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really on for all too long.” Haukur S. Magnússon attentds a Brian Available at your nearest bookstore Jonestown Massacre show. Page 34.