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TILJ_JanFeb10:TILJ 1/20/10 12:38 PM Page 3 NOTE FROM THE EDITOR'S DESK Greetings from the editor’s desk!!! Note From The Editor’s Desk There is a lot of news in this issue. First I would like to give a great vote of thanks for the efforts of Mike Pecorella as he substituted for Don DennisNote after Don’s From sudden health The issues. (Don Editor’s still struggles at times,Desk but I happily notice continued improvement in him). Season’s greetings from the Editor’s desk! I hope all of our readers had a safe and enjoyable Mike Season’sstepped up greetingsto the plateholiday. infrom spite the ofNow hisEditor’s manythat theother desk! Holiday responsibilities: I hope madness all of the our requirementsis readersbehind us,had he it’s faced a safetime as aandto father, get enjoyable to a signifiwork cant again. other, Many of the an educatorholiday. in a Now specialty that school,readers the Holiday and might of course madness already keeping know is inbehind conditionthat this us, foris it’s mythe time nextfirst to Bostonissue get astoMarathon. workeditor again. after Taking taking Many on the over ofeditorship the from Donat Dennis. ery large shoes to fill. It is my a momentsreaders notice might was already a heroicThough moveknow I can’tthat that kept thissay The thatis Independentmy I havefirst issue ever Locksmith seenas editor Don’s Journal after feet, active taking I knowfor allover ofI have itsfrom readers. v Don Thank Dennis. you Mike, from all of us, you did an awesomeongoing job.mission to continue his outstanding contributions to The Independent Locksmith Journal Though I can’t say that I have ever seen Don’s feet, I know I have v ery large shoes to fill. It is my and provide our readers with the most current, relevant, and exciting content in the industry. I Now ongoingit is my turn. mission As the topublisher, continue I will his now outstanding assume Mikes contributions responsibilities to and The will Independent now (under Don’s Locksmith quiet tutorage) Journal become look forward to an exciting and rewarding new year. the publishingand provide editor, our having readers the pleasantwith the responsibility most current, of interfacing relevant, with and the exciting brilliant content in the industry. I creative minds of our existing andSuggestions? future writers. Comments? Please feel free to leave feedback look forward to an exciting and rewarding new year. Lo about a particular content you would like to be featured, or t Loc dent cksm enden ksm en ith Suggestions? Comments? Please feel free to leave feedback ep eipth J Some of the changes at TILJ during Mike’s tenure will make this an easier task. Additional nd d J o anything up-and-coming you may have heard about! I Lo n ou u e ent cksm I r r writersabout have abeen particular found, additional content benefi you tswould are in likeline toto be be provided featured, to our or subscribers, h nd iet n n pe h h a a Tde J l l and sadlyanythi I haveng up-and-coming had the time to restructure you may thehave website heard subscription about! formats to end a n T ou Michael Pecorella I r e n glitch or two that impacted both the subscribers and the TILJ staff. An article is forthcoming h a Editor l on the changes at TILJ, and how they will affect and benefi t you. T Michael PecorellaThe Independent Locksmith Journal Editor Thank you for your continued21 Edenfield patronage, Ave. your compliments and well wishes. The best of luck backThe Independentto all of you. LocksmithWatertown, Journal MA 02472 21 Edenfield Ave. January–February 2010 [email protected] Issu e 20 – $14.00 Ken Watertown, MA 02472 January–February 2010 [email protected] $ WHEN TO RENEW YOUR SUBSCRIPTION: September/October 2010Issu e 20 – 14.00 WHEN TO RENEW YOUR SUBSCRIPTION: Issu e 24 – $14.00 The number on your address liable indicates your subscription end. The WHEN3rd and TO4th RENEWnumbers YOURon your SUBSCRIPTION: address label indicate your last issue If your label reads xx-22xx-20xxxxx-xxxxx THEN Means THIS THIS IS YOUR IS YOUR LAST LAST ISSUE. SUBSCRIBED ISSUE. The number on yourxx-21xxxxx address liableMeans indicates issue 21 your is your subscription last subscribed end. issue. xx-30=xxxxxxx-20xxxxx Would Means mean THIS that IS issue YOUR 30 LASTis your SUBSCRIBED last issue. ISSUE. xx-21xxxxx Means issue 21 is your last subscribed issue. 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Information: Box 744, East Rochester, NY 14445 12 – Security Consultant (circle one) Renewal 13 – Architect (enter subscription number above) JOB TITLE (Best Description) 1 – VISA 14 – Other (circle one) Payment Information: 2 – MASTERCARD 1 – Owner (circle one) Renewal Expiration Date 3 – Payment Enclosed(enter subscription number above) JOB TITLE (Best2 – Description)Employee 1 – VISA (circle 3one) – Corporate Management 1 – Owner 2 – MASTERCARDCredit Card # 4 – Corporate Support Staff 3 – Payment Enclosed Expiration Date 2 – Employee 5 – Apprentice/Student Signature (required) Date3 – Corporate Management6 – Other Credit Card # 4 – Corporate Support Staff (please specify) 5 – Apprentice/Student Signature (required) Date 6 – Other July-August 2009 3 (please specify) The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 1 July-August 2009 3 TILJ CONTENTS

Features The Independent Locksmith Journal

All Inquiries - Please Contact: Ken Persson, Publisher SCHLAGE SECUREKEY (585) 264-1199 or mail your request and funds to TILJ, P.O. Box 744, East By Matthew Myers, CPL Page 3 Rochester, NY 14445

Editorial: Mike Pecorella, Editor INTRODUCTION TO SAFE MANIPULATION: Don Dennis, CPL, Editorial Consultant Part 1 Design/Production: By Matthew Myers, CPL Page 12 Roxana Olsen, Beyond Graphics

The Independent Locksmith Journal is published six times each year. HAND MAKING KEYS Issues are mailed bi-monthly starting Part 1 in January of each year. Subscription rates may be found by going to By Mike Friend Page 20 www.tiljonline.com. Rates begin at $45.95 for the United States and graduate upward for overseas subscriptions due to DEALING WITH HOUSE LOCKOUTS postage. PDF versions are available on-line at www .tiljonline.com. By Matthew Myers, CPL Page 23

All Rights Reserved by The Independent Locksmith Journal © 2010 IMPRESSIONING BASICS The opinions shared in this By Matthew Myers, CPL Page 33 publication are those of the authors and do not necessarily represent the views of TILJ.

ADVERTISERS Peterson 2 Permavault Safe Co. 26 Locksmithing Unlimitied 7 Marray, Inc. 29 KEYPRINT 13 GKL Products 32 Lectrotruck 14 IFDIA 36 The Desktop Dispatcher 19 KeylessRide.com Inside Back Cover Hinge Doctor 23 Pacific Lock Co. Back Cover Brockhage 24

2 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 SCHLAGE SECUREKEY By Matthew Myers, CPL

January 2010 Schlage introduced a 1- Schlage’s new SecureKey locks were just released in 2010. new product by the name of SecureKey (Photo 1). This line of residential locks features a newly designed cylinder which allows for quick fi eld re-keying without any disassembly. The product is similar in design and functionality to Kwikset’s SmartKey locks, a similarity which will be discussed in depth later.

Identifi cation of the new SecureKey locks is fairly straight forward as the faces of the new plugs feature a “+” above the keyway. Some locksmiths have reported seeing this “+” on some non-SecureKey locks, the reason for which is unknown.

Space 1: 0.231” 2: 0.305” 2: 0.387” 3: 0.290” 3: 0.543” 4: 0.275” 4: 0.699” 5: 0.260” 5: 0.855” 6: 0.245” 7: 0.230” Depth 0: 0.335” 8: 0.215” 1: 0.320” 9: 0.200”

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 3 2- Just the cylinder has changed. Beyond the “+” a positive ID can be achieved by looking into the keyway where the unusual pins (referred to as “tongue pins” in Ingersoll-Rand’s patent) can be seen with the naked eye. The hardware is the same as regular Schlage residential locks, it is only the cylinder which is new (Photo 2)

SecureKey locks use Schlage’s normal SC1 (Original: 35-100C) key blank with 5 spaces, 10 depths, and a MACS (Maximum Adjacent Cut Specification) of 7. This is identical to other 5-pin Schlage products:

Besides two standard operating keys (called “Everyday Keys” by Schlage), SecureKey locks also come with two blue reset keys. One of these keys is cut to the bitting of the operating keys, and the second is a key blank. The reset keys appear similar to a standard key; however there are two important differences. The first of

3- Blue reset keys are needed for rekeying, which feature a thinned down blank. these differences is that the reset blanks feature a thinned portion of the key blade, where the cuts are made (Photo 3). The second difference is a noticeable protrusion on the right side of the blank (Photo 4). These blue reset key blanks are now available through most locksmith distributors.

Rekeying these locks is simple. First the existing blue reset key (which is cut to

4 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 4-The blue reset keys also have a protrusion on the right side of the blank. the same bitting as the operating keys) is inserted into the lock and turned to the 11 o’clock position (Photo 5), where the key can be removed (Photo 6). At this point the lock is in reset mode. Another blue reset key, cut to a new bitting, is then inserted into the lock and turned back to the neutral 12 o’clock position. The lock is now rekeyed, ready to be used by standard operating keys cut to the bitting used to reset the lock. SecureKey locks, like SmartKey locks, can only be keyed to one key; master keying is not possible due to the lock’s design.

Until the blue reset key 5-To put the lock in reset mode the existing reset key is blanks were available locksmiths turned to the 11 o’clock position. had to come up with other ways of completing the reset procedure. Fortunately these blanks can be fairly easily simulated with a regular SC1 blank. First the key blade is thinned to resemble the blue reset key blanks, and then it is cut to the existing operating bitting. After this new key is inserted into the lock, a small paper clip is slid along the right side of the key to activate the slider on the right side of the keyway. While holding this slider in place (mimicking the action of

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 5 the protrusion on the blue reset key blanks), the key is turned to the 11 o’clock position. The new blue reset key is then inserted and rotated back to 12 o’clock to finish the rekeying procedure.

Unfortunately the simplicity of the rekeying procedure does not reflect the inner workings of this new lock, which is somewhat more complicated. SecureKey features one point of locking in the form of a sidebar (Photo 7) located at 9 o’clock. This sidebar can only retreat completely into the 6-Once the existing reset key is removed from the 11 o’clock position the new reset key can be inserted and turned back. plug upon the correct vertical alignment of 5 sliders, each featuring a gate for sidebar entry (correct key inserted in Photo 8, incorrect key inserted in Photo 9). The side of the sliders opposite the sidebar features 10 horizontal slits, corresponding with the 7-The plug is secured by a single sidebar located at the 9 o’clock position. 10 possible depths for each cut in the key. Inserted into one of these ten slits is a small tab protruding from the “tongue pins” which ride on the key (Photos 10, 11, and 12).

When the plug is rotated to 11 o’clock by the blue reset key, the separate housing containing the tongue pins (Photo 13) is allowed to tilt away from the sliders, in effect separating the previously mated tongue pins and sliders (Photo 14). The protrusion on the side of the blue reset key depresses a spring-loaded pin which allows this

8-With the correct key inserted all of the gates of the sliders align at the blue arrow, where the sidebar sits.

6 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 Who could ask for anything more? Pin SARGENT* cylinders Punch SARGENT* blanks to factory speciﬁcations!

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Pockets for all parts to key Conventional, Removable Core, Built on a modiﬁed PRO-LOK* chassis with our parts, and Signature cylinders by SARGENT* are now available will cut L, R, H, and C blanks up to 7 spaces, including in one convenient pinning kit. Signature, XC, and many restricted Series. This kit is available Empty, or 31 sizes of 100 each LAB* They were evaluated by SARGENT*, Distributors, Locksmiths, Brand Original SARGENT* bottom, master, and hollow driver The National Locksmith, The Institutional Locksmith, and The pins for all Conventional and Removable Core cylinders. Independent Locksmith Journal. Includes: Dual View Tray and Seal-Tight Cover. Optional: Chip Tray and Heavy Duty Carrying Case. * Not available from SARGENT or LAB. * Not available from SARGENT or PRO-LOK. Locksmithing, Unl. LLC Phone: 302-575-0993 Fax: 302-571-1677 Email: [email protected] Web: www.locksmithingunl.com separate housing to tilt away (Photos 15 and 16). The tilting of the separate housing also narrows the keyway (Photo 17), hence the thinned down blue reset keys (this prevents the insertion of standard blanks). In this reset mode the sliders are kept in the unlocked, properly aligned position by the sidebar, which remains in the gates of the sliders. The insertion of a new blue reset key raises the tongue pins to the desired height. Upon turning this new blue reset key to the 12 o’clock position the housing containing the tongue pins is rotated back to its previous position wherein each tab on the side of the tongue pins mate with the corresponding slits on the side of the

9-With the wrong key inserted one or more sliders prevent the sidebar from retracting.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 7 sliders.

SecureKey cylinders are not designed to be serviceable. If something breaks it is likely more cost effective to replace the lock and obviously rekeying does not require any disassembly. Moreover, reassembling the lock is quite frankly 10-The so-called “tongue pins” ride on the key. a pain at times. The separate housing containing the tongue pins and springs is difficult to reinsert as it has to be tilted into place, something difficult to accomplish without the pins falling out. If needed a folded piece of thin metal can be used to hold the pins in place during reassembly.

If the lock needs to be rekeyed and there are no existing keys a little additional creativity is needed. As of this writing no tools are available to reset the lock, although a tool similar to the SmartKey reset 11-The sidebar enters the gate of the slider (green arrow), which is raised by the tongue pin (blue arrow). The tab on the side of the tongue pin (red arrow) is mated with one of the cradle might do the trick. For now the notches in the side of the slider, corresponding with one of the 10 possible depths (yellow arrows). recommended procedure requires the lock be removed from the door and the C-clip removed from the back of the plug. With the C-clip removed a groove in the plug can be observed at approximately 5 o’clock, on the same side as the sidebar. Insertion of a key blank raises all of the sliders out of this groove, after which a small wire (such as a paper clip) can be inserted into the entire length of the groove (Photo 18). When the key blank is removed the sliders come to rest on top of the wire, which coincidentally is the height they need to be at to align all of the gates and allow the sidebar to retract. After depressing the pin on the right side of the keyway a tension wrench can be used to turn the plug to 11 o’clock where a new blue reset key can be inserted to rekey the lock. 12-The tongue pins reside in a separate housing, seen here.

8 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 In a lockout situation there are a few more options available. The first of these options is traditional picking. 13-The housing with the tongue pins has a blue plastic top. SecureKey locks, like other locks containing sidebars, feel very different during picking than traditional pin tumbler locks. Picking is best described as more “springy” due to the spring- loaded sidebar. The sliders do not feature any anti-picking features though, such as false gates, so picking is generally pretty straight forward after a little practice. Some locksmiths have reported breaking SecureKey locks during picking attempts, and care should be taken when picking the lock counter-clockwise as it may reset itself upon reach the 11 o’clock reset position. Using impact tools such as pick guns or bump keys will not work with SecureKey locks.

Destructive entry methods are the other option. The conventional way to drill this cylinder would appear to be simply drilling out the sidebar. This would work, of course, however there is a better way. Josh Hickenlooper of Glen’s Keys (Salt Lake City, Utah) came up with a pretty slick destructive bypass. Earlier a method of resetting the lock was described where a paperclip was inserted into a groove running along the bottom of the plug. In Josh’s attack this same groove is used, with a small access hole being drilled on the face of the lock. A hole just big enough for the paper clip is drilled through the face of the lock in the front of the groove. A key blank is then inserted to raise the sliders out of the groove allowing room for the paper clip to be inserted (Photo 19). After the key blank is removed, thus allowing the sliders to rest on the paper clip, a tension wrench (or simply the tip

14-When in reset mode the blue tongue pin housing tilts away from the sliders, separating the sliders from the tongue pins.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 9 of the key) is used to rotate the plug to the unlocked position.

The business side of this new lock by Schlage is as interesting as the mechanics. From the description of the lock and photos it should be fairly clear that there are many similarities between Kwikset’s SmartKey locks and these new SecureKey locks, besides the names. Both feature sliders with a sidebar, both are field rekeyable, both are rated at Grade 1, and both 15-This spring-loaded pin detects the insertion of a reset key. are marketed towards the same audience. In fact Kwikset seems to think the similarities are so great that it amounts to patent infringement. While details are scarce, Kwikset seems to have filed a lawsuit against Schlage on patent infringement grounds. Evidence of this is in a press release issued by Schlage in March, 2010. This press release states that Kwikset Corporation brought the lawsuit which “alleges that Schlage infringes on two Kwikset patents and that Schlage’s statement that its product is ‘10 Times More Secure’ 16-When depressed by the protrusion on a reset key the tongue pin housing is given clearance to tilt away from the sliders to enter reset mode. than competitive products is false.” The patent in question would seem to be US Patent No. 12138950 (Photo 20) which was filed on June 13, 2008 and issued on December 25, 2008. This 17-When the tongue pin housing tilts away part of the keyway is blocked, hence the requirement of the thinned down blue reset key. patent describes two versions of the SecureKey lock, the second of which appears from the patent diagrams to be identical to the current production SecureKey locks. It will be interesting to see how this lawsuit will affect the sale of SecureKey and SmartKey in the future.

Advertising of the SecureKey locks is also interesting. In particular Schlage claims that “SecureKey

10 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 18-Inserting a wire into the groove along the bottom of the plug raises the sliders to the correct height for the sidebar to retract, allowing the plug to turn to force it into reset mode. Technology enables 10 times more key cut combinations than other locks, making homes 10 times more secure from key duplication.” Product literature describes the competition as having 6 key cuts (which appears to be describing Kwikset) with a total of 7,776 (6^5) theoretical key bittings. Schlage compares this to the 10 key cuts with SecureKey with a total of 100,000 (10^5) bittings. This larger number of theoretical bittings appears to be the basis for the claim of their locks being “10 times more secure,” although from a locksmithing perspective the

claim that the additional key bittings reduces 19-Drilling a small hole in the face of the lock for insertion of a small the chance of wire allows the sliders to align for the sidebar, unlocking the lock. key duplication seems unusual.

Locksmiths all over North America are certainly going to be seeing more of these locks and it will be interesting to see how their delicate construction will withstand the test of time. The photographs for this article were taken by Mike Morain who can be reached at mike.morain@gmail. If you have any questions about the article itself you can reach the author, Matthew Myers, by email at [email protected].

20-Kwikset may be in the process of suing Schlage on patent infringement grounds.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 11 INTRODUCTION TO Safe MANIPULATION: Part 1 By Matthew Myers, CPL

Of all of the skills which personify the locksmith in the eyes of the public, safe manipulation is second only to perhaps lock picking. In the context of this article safe manipulation refers to a specifi c technique, described below, by which a mechanical combination lock on a safe is opened by touch and sound without prior knowledge of the combination.

As this is an introduction to the topic, very little prior knowledge is assumed. In order to be profi cient at manipulation the lock must be completely understood. For an introductory article we will be primarily concerned with U.L. Listed Group 2 locks, with the Sargent & Greenleaf 6730 lock being a prime example. The S&G 6730 (Photo 1) is one of the most common mechanical safe combination locks in the United States, and is operated by a 100-number dial (Photo 2) used to dial in a 3-number combination. The

1- The Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G) 6700 series lock is one of the most 2 - The S&G 6730 is operated by a 100-number dial. common Group 2 Mechanical safe locks in North America.

12 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 3 - The ﬂ y (blue arrow) on each wheel transfers motion from one 4 - Each wheel features one gate (blue arrow). wheel to the next. dialing sequence is four turns left to the fi rst number, three turns right to the second number, two turn left to the third number, and one turn right till the dial stops.

The design of this lock is fairly standard amongst modern mechanical safe combination locks and has design characteristics going back many years. The S&G 6730 contains three wheels, each wheel corresponding to number in the combination. Of these three wheels, the closest to the front of the safe corresponds to the fi rst number in the combination and is referred to as wheel one. The wheel behind this is wheel two, and the furthest back is wheel three (which corresponds with the third number in the combination). Tel: +44 (0)131 555 0909 Fax: +44 (0)131 554 1177 Email: [email protected] Website: www.keyprint.co.uk Furthest from the front of the KEYPRINT 45 ASSEMBLY STREET EDINBURGH EH6 7BQ UNITED KINGDOM safe, behind wheel 3, is a smaller diameter wheel called the drive UK’s Leading Supplier of Quality Security Products cam. The drive cam is fi xed via a Please check our website www.keyprint.co.uk threaded spindle to the dial on the front of the safe; when the user OPENING TOOLS KEY MACHINES & BLANKS

spins the dial this corresponds to • Cylinder Keys • Mortice Keys a rotation of the drive cam. The • Safe Keys • Transponder Keys side of the drive cam towards the • Electronic Heads front of the safe, the side facing • Case Only wheel three, features a small Complete Range Available protrusion called a ﬂ y. When the drive cam is rotated this ﬂ y SOFTWARE CYLINDERS

eventually comes in contact with • Patented • Master Key • 6 Pin the corresponding ﬂ y of wheel • Cross Reference • 5 Pin • Key Registration • Master Keyed three (Photo 3), transferring the • Silca Software • Keso High • Instacode Security rotation of the dial in turn to wheel Cylinders three. The ﬂ y on the back side of wheel three likewise drives wheel two, and wheel two drives wheel

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one. It is for this reason that the dial must called the gate (Photo 4). When the proper be turned four times left before stopping combination has been dialed, each of the on the fi rst number: one turn to pick up three gates align. This provides a space for wheel three, another turn to pick up wheel a small bar, called the fence, to drop down. two, and a another turn to pick up wheel This fence is fi xed to a spring-loaded lever one; the fourth turn is used to align the fi rst attached to the bolt. This spring-loaded wheel to the correct number. lever, or specifi cally the portion of the lever referred to as the lever nose, rides on the Each of the three wheels features drive cam. The drive cam has a cut away an opening cut away from the edge, portion called the drop in or drive cam gate 5 - The drive cam features a ﬂ y (red arrow) and a drive cam 6 - The lever features a fence (blue arrow) which drops into the gate or drop in (blue arrow). wheel pack and a lever nose (red arrow) which contacts the drive cam.

14 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 7 - When all of the gates are aligned the fence can drop 8 - Further rotation of the dial clockwise retracts the bolt. down into the wheels. (Photo 5). Only when the lever nose rides is said to be the “indicating” wheel (Photo down into the drop in of the drive cam does 9). When this wheel is dialed correctly, in the fence come into contact with the three other words the gate is lined up under the wheels (Photo 6). Assuming the correct fence, the fence will drop down further combination is entered, and therefore the into the wheel pack to contact the next gates of the wheels are lined up, the fence wheel (perhaps the second largest wheel) will not be obstructed and will fall down into (Photo 10). Finally, when this next wheel is the gates of the wheels (Photo 7). Further also correctly dialed, the fence will come rotation of the dial clockwise moves the into contact with the third and fi nal wheel lever nose and in turn retracts the bolt, (Photo 11). Of course when this third leaving the safe unlocked (Photo 8). and fi nal wheel is lined up the fence will drop completely, allowing the lock to be So how does one go about fi guring unlocked (Photo 12). out the combination without breaking out the power tools? Just like when it comes When manipulating the lock, we to lock picking, the answer lies in taking try every possible number for the fi rst advantage of mechanical imperfections. indicating wheel until the fence drops These imperfections, at least the ones safe slightly further (this means we have found crackers are concerned with, manifest the correct number for the indicating themselves as variations in wheel diameter wheel). The next indicating wheel is then and shape, fence alignment, and even the dialed to every possible number until the angle of which the lever screw fi xes the fence drops further, and fi nally the last of lever to the bolt. Attacking the lock starts the three wheels is dialed to every possible with this basic idea: when the drive cam is number until the lock is unlocked. rotated so the lever nose is in the drop in, and therefore the fence is pushed against That’s all great and everything, but the wheels, the fence will in only contact it would seem on the surface that it is one of the three wheels rather than all impossible (without the aid of x-ray vision) three simultaneously. This is because, for to measure the distance that the fence example, that one wheel is a slightly larger is dropping down from the outside of a diameter than the remaining two. The locked safe. Fortunately for us this is not wheel which is in contact with the fence the case, as about 60 years ago a method

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 15 was developed to do just that. The theory is that as the fence drops further into the wheel pack, the lever nose in turn drops further into the drop in of the drive cam. Rotation of the dial reveals that the drop in can be felt, typically between 0 and 15, characterized by a light click heard or slight resistance felt on both the left 1 2 and right edge of the drop in (Photo 13). These two points are called the left (Photo 14, 15) and right (Photo 16, 9 - The red wheel, being larger in diameter than the other two, contacts the fence ﬁ rst. It is said to be “indicating.” 17) contact points. As the lever nose 10 - Once the gate of the red wheel is aligned, the fence drops further to drops further and further into the drop come into contact with the next largest wheel, the orange wheel. in, this range (with the S&G 6730 this 11 - Once the orange wheel is dialed correctly the fence drops down to range is typically between roughly contact the ﬁ nal wheel (the teal one). 4 and 12) will become narrower and 12 - When all gates are aligned the fence can drop completely. narrower. Thus, the distance the fence has lowered into the wheel pack can be determined by carefully measuring the distance between the left and right contact points. The closer these two numbers are to one another, the further the fence has dropped into the wheel pack.

Keep in mind that with most Group 2 locks the gate in each wheel is wider than one number, allowing the combination to be dialed slightly off for convenience (dialing 20.5 when the lock is set to 20 should still allow it to be unlocked). For this reason when trying combinations and checking contact points, skipping numbers is perfectly OK. Many safe manipulators skip 3 every 2.5 numbers (dialing, for example, 0, 2.5, 5, 7.5, and so on, Photo 18), or sometimes just every other number for higher accuracy (0.5, 2.5, 4.5, 5.5, and so on). Also, in the majority of cases with the S&G 6730 the third wheel indicates fi rst, but more on that in Part 2. For now however let’s take the following series of combinations into consideration: 50-50-20 50-50-22.5 50-50-25 50-50-27.5 50-50-30 [ ... ]

These combinations serve as trial combinations-- an 4 interrogation of the lock of sorts. Notice that only the third

16 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 number, or wheel 3, is being changed. In practice 13 - The drop in area, or drive cam gate, can be the dial is fi rst turned clockwise several times felt from the outside of the to pick up all the wheels, then stopped at 50. safe. The dial is then turned back around, counter- clockwise, one full turn to pick up the third wheel, which is moved to 20. After stopping at 20 the dial is moved back (clockwise) to our drop in and the two contact points are precisely measured. For the next combination, the third wheel is advanced 2.5 numbers by turning counter-clockwise to 22.5; there is no need to move the fi rst two wheels because they are already where we want them to be (at 50). To continue the example, assume the following contact point measurements were taken:

50-50-20: Left Contact Point: 97.20 Right Contact Point: 12.50 (Difference: 15.3) 50-50-22.5: Left Contact Point: 97.15 Right Contact Point: 12.45 (Difference: 15.3) 50-50-25: Left Contact Point: 97.70 Right Contact Point: 12.00 (Difference: 14.3) 50-50-27.5: Left Contact Point: 97.25 Right Contact Point: 12.35 (Difference: 15.1) 50-50-30: Left Contact Point: 97.20 Right Contact Point: 12.50 (Difference: 15.3) [ ... ] 14 - The left contact point can be felt where the lever With these reading it should be clear nose contacts the left edge that a high level of accuracy is needed when of the drop in. taking the contact point readings; when we dial a combination which lines up the gate on the indicating wheel, the change in left and right contact point readings may be incredibly minute. 15 - With this lock the left The fi rst combination dialed, 50-50-20, had a contact point was about left contact point of 97.20 and a right contact 97.4 point of 12.50. The combination dialed after it had only a slight change: both contact points moved left very slightly. This slight variation is one of the clues that the indicating wheel has been moved, and it caused by slightly variations in wheel shape.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 17 The combination which should jump out is 50-50-25. When this combination was dialed, the gap between the two contact points narrowed considerably (97.70 and 12.00 from 97.15 and 12.45 on the previously dialed combination). Also of importance is that the contact point readings of the combinations after this one generally returned to the “baseline” established before it.

16 - The right contact point can be felt where the lever nose contacts the right edge of the drop in. Safe manipulators who take a more classical approach prefer to graph their results. A graph of the above trial combinations would show visually how the contact points narrowed after dialing 50- 50-25 (Photo 19).

These results strongly suggest that when the third wheel was changed to 25, the fence dropped further than in any of the other combinations. This means that the assumption is made, based on this strong 17 - With this lock the right contact point was about 10.6 evidence, that the third number in the combination is 25.

As one would guess the next step is to fi gure out the next number in the combination. In Part 2 of this article more detail will be given about determining which wheel is indicating, but for the continuation of this example the assumption is made that wheel 2 is indicating next. Therefore, the following combinations might be tried:

18 - By skipping 2.5 numbers (in this case 52.5) [ ... ] time can be saved. 50-60-25 50-62.5-25 50-65-25 50-67.5-25 50-60-25 [ ... ]

These combinations show how the second number is progressed by 2.5 numbers, and that the last wheel is always returned to 25 (the 19 - Some safe technicians prefer to graph their results. In this graph the two points closest to the center of the page represent the best indication.

18 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 number we have established is the third 0-65-25 number in the combination). By returning the 2.5-65-25 last wheel to 25 the fence is, theoretically, 5-65-25 allowed to come to rest on the second wheel 7.5-65-25 as it can pass through the gate of the third 10-65-25 wheel. Therefore all of the contact point [ ... ] readings taken should be reﬂ ective of the state of the second wheel. Like the fi rst set This article, Part 1, is a very brief introduction of combinations, these combinations are to the theory of manipulation. In the next issue dialed each followed by careful contact point of TILJ, Part 2 will cover some more topics including how to more accurately identify measurements. Also like before, a further which wheel is indicating, alternate dialing narrowing of the contact point boundaries methods, contact point reading techniques, will be a strong indication of fi nding the shadowing, use of manipulation aids, correct second number. diagnostic manipulation with malfunctioning For the sake of this example, it is discovered locks, as well as tips on how to develop that when the combination 50-65-25 was manipulation profi ciency and more. dialed the contact points showed a strong indication of fi nding the correct second The photographs for this article were number (65). Now operating under the taken by Mike Morain who can be reached assumption that the second number is 65 at mike.morain@gmail. If you have any and the third number is 25, the fi rst number questions about the article itself you can is simply progressed through every possible reach the author, Matthew Myers, by email combination until the lock opens: at [email protected]. The Desktop Dispatcher

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The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 19 HAND MAKING KEYS BY Part MIKE FRIEND 1

Making a key to a mortice lock is a basic locksmith skill, and one required by the UK’s Master Locksmithing Association (MLA) as part of their full exam. The chosen lock for the exam is a 3G110. Why? - Because it requires some intricate skills and good hand eye coordination.

We will start simple with a cabinet lock, and in following articles advance to 3,5 and 7 levers until finally the very scary, (you can do it), Chubb 3G110.

Here Are The Tools You Will Need: (A word on tools first though, “garbage” tools equals a “garbage” job, spend less by buying the best - it pays in the long term.)

1. A set of vice jaws with composite or soft material to grip the key blank with (so you do not mark the stem; this would lose you marks in an exam). You can alternately wrap the stem in a good stout cloth. You can use a piece of one of those non-slip tool mats cut into strips; it lasts a few keys. 2. Good quality calliper, digital is good but any good marking out tool will do even a compass. 3. A File – I use Nicholson 2nd cut 8 inch warding files, I also have 6 inch. I always use Nicholson as a personal choice. GOOD quality and as thin as you can find - certainly less that 1.5mm. I know one renowned locksmith who uses jewellers files and swears by them, clean square edges - that’s what you require. 4. A key horse, you will probably have to make one as I have tried to find one to buy. But I managed to get colleagues to photograph theirs and send me some quality prints, thanks chaps. 5. Odds and ends like a black marker may help, plus some emery for final polishing and a mug of your favourite.

Most simple two and three lever locks can have a new key fitted from pre-cut stock keys, for five lever locks you can obtain a new lever pack; even safes can sometimes be re-levered. But this is a skills practice.

Firstly strip the lock and clean all the parts, I find a cloth with a spray of WD40 works very well, if there is wear in the lockcase it’s probably not worth re-keying. So check the keyholes in the case, Talon, bolt stump, gates for filed edges and worn springs. Clean the debris out the case. Get used to taking out the parts, cleaning and laying out in an order you will remember, for 5 lever locks it may help to write lever positions on each lever.

The common cupboard lock is first. It is simple to dismantle, the key will not need a lot of cutting and the post will help keep the key upright whilst you get to grips with the procedures. There are usually no replacement levers for it – but you can knock out a key in minutes on-site.

Before starting any work a Health and safety announcement.

Metal powder is dangerous if inhaled or ingested Wash hands before eating Brush away dust - do not blow it away, the intake of breath may induce fine particles into your lungs, metal rusts and can be expelled, Brass will not rot and may set up a serious infection in the lungs. Metal dust will kill a laptop, PC, Mobile phone and short out other appliances

20 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 The Four lever cabinet lock is a pretty standard design. It is not warded and a standard pipe key will do the job

Cap removed and the bolt ‘half shot’ to show the gating

Four levers – or rather two levers in two pairs, pretty common in this type of lock, it does limit the changing of the key differ if one has been ‘lost’. If it’s a standard replacement then keep the order the missing key could turn up in someone’s cardigan pocket. Ask me how I know sometime….

The bolt and bolt stump and talon all one unit, this is because the hand of the lock is determined by how you mount it – turn the key one way and it’s either locked or unlocked.

1. Size the blank: (make the blank fit the lock and engage with the bolt).

1a. First cut and or file the blank to fit in the lock case.

1b. Cut the bit (length of the blank) down to fit inside the case – pretty easy in a furniture lock

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 21 Finished and now to correct size take the time to make sure the key engages with the bolt talon and throws the bolt full cycle smoothly. As it happens in our lock the bolt Talon is the same height as two of the levers, this is not an uncommon occurrence.

Use your callipers measure the thickness of the talon

Do the same with the levers

The first Talon step is shown marked onto the bit (which has been darkened with black marker pen). You may not need to do this but for the photograph I had to show the line Now you can cut the first lever cut in. Because of the space in the lock-case I am unable to show the key engaging with the lever.

The next step was bolt talon height as was the last cut. The third cut was the same as the first cut – Simple in this example.

Alternative cuts for the same available levers - it would be possible to put different pairs of levers side by side and get more key variations.

I used a set of needle files for this as the levers were far smaller than my 6” warding file. It is really important to get the sides of the cut square and the bottom of the cut At right angles any ‘portholes’ or rounded corners will give a false height to the lifting lever. Later when the rounder corners or the levers wear the key will start grabbing and finally the frustrated customer will snap the key in the lock.

22 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 DEALING WITH HOUSE Lockouts By Matthew Myers, CPL

Ever since people started locking their doors they have been locking themselves out. I think most would agree this will continue to happen for the foreseeable future. After calling signiﬁ cant others, neighbors, New and (God forbid) mother-in-laws Product Releases looking for a spare key, as well as Inventive Ideas that Work . . . possibly trying to crawl through a window or two, a locksmith is usually Hinge Doctor called for assistance in the matter. by GKL Products This article will cover residential lockout calls from the initial phone Corrects sagging doors call to the signing of the invoice, in seconds! addressing legal issues, entry techniques, some other relevant considerations.

The ﬁ rst clue to how a lockout is going to go is the time of day the customer calls. Customers who become locked out early in the morning, for example, might be on their way to work and therefore be in a rush. In contrast lockout calls GKL Products 4EL s&AX

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 23 between midnight and three often involve adult beverages of one form or another. Whatever the time or reason for the lockout, there are always a few key questions to ask over the phone. These questions are second nature to ask for most: Where is the house? Are you there now, or when will you be there? Do you live there? Finally, price needs to be discussed. Many locksmiths charge for lockouts differently, but it’s important to at least provide a minimum and maximum price to the customer over the phone. Along with this price quote is one ﬁ nal, important, question: How will you be paying?

Any locksmith who has been handling residential lockouts for a little while can tell you stories about such calls. Some are humorous, such as cases of people who run out for the morning newspaper 1 1 - Lock picks are the ﬁ rst choice of tools on most residential lockouts.

24 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 in just their underwear only to become locked out. Other stories involve situations involving unpredictable and sometimes dangerous environments for the locksmiths. These situations include domestic or estate disputes, or even possible criminal activity. Unless explicitly discussed over the phone, the locksmith may not become aware of such situations until they arrive on the job site.

Once on site, especially if something seems “off,” there’s no shame in asking a lot of questions. Does the person live there? Do they have any form of identiﬁ cation with that address on it? Unfortunately people often lock themselves out with no way of verifying their authority to be inside, but it’s good to ask anyway just so they are aware you are going to check once entry is made. Finally it’s a really good idea to ask how they locked themselves out. The most common situation is for people to ﬁ nd themselves locked out after the doorknob got locked and the door gets closed (after the dog “bumped” the lock and the wind slammed the door closed behind them of course). Knowing which locks are locked assists in making the decision of where to start.

The heart of the lockout calls is, of course, making entry. Most locksmiths start with the locks, and rightfully so. While there may be other avenues of entry opening the lock itself is somewhat more predictable battle. Moreover, bypassing the lock itself is usually what the customer expects. Practically speaking, the following options are available for bypassing a door lock on a residential lockout: 1) Picking the lock. 2) Using model-speciﬁ c bypasses. 3) Shimming (“loiding”) the latch. 4) Using impact tools (a manual or electric pick gun, or bump key). 5) Impressioning the lock 2 6) Drilling the lock.

2 - Customers usually expect locksmiths to pick the lock to gain entry.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 25 3

3 - This tool is an example of a bypass tool for a particular type of lock; in this case

These options are in a speciﬁ c order: the order which some locksmiths prefer to attack the lock. Most typically reach for their picks ﬁ rst (Photo 1). This is because lock picking, too many, is a skill that sets locksmiths apart from other professions. If the locksmith can open the lock quickly with hand tools they have gotten the customer in quickly with damaging their lock and likely done exactly what the customer expected them to do (customers watch James Bond movies too, after all) (Photo 2).

How much time to spend picking depends on a number of different factors. The skill of the lock picker, tools available, condition of the lock, and even the feeling of “getting close” can all play a role. The important thing is to consider that there are other options available, and time is money.

When lock picking isn’t working out it’s time to move on to the next option: model-specifi c bypasses. This refers to special tools or techniques which are applicable only to specifi c models of locks. An example of this is using “Weiser shims” on old-style Schlage F knobsets. The shims are inserted just where the knob meets to the rose (at 12 o’clock and/or 6 o’clock), taking advantage of a specifi c design defect to allow the knob to be turned to retract the latch. Other examples include attacking

26 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 4 - Another example of a lock bypass is accessing screws via a removed faceplate on this Kwikset deadbolt. the actuator of certain Adams Rite locks (Photo 3), using comb picks on some padlocks, or removal of the faceplate and backing out of screws on Kwikset deadbolts (Photo 4). If a speciﬁ c bypass like one of these is known for the lock in question, less time can be spent on picking.

If the lock still isn’t cooperating, and no bypasses are known, shimming the latch might be the next step. Shimming the latch, also known as loiding or simply “credit-carding” a latch, is obviously only possible with knob- and leversets rather than deadbolts. The idea is fairly simple: 4 insert a tool (such as a credit card or Peterson’s CBS SHIM: (great product, a plastic impregnated material that does not split like many of the other shim materials) in between the door and door frame to work the spring-loaded latch back into the door, allowing it to open.

First it must be understood which latches this technique will work on. Besides those that come with privacy and passage function locksets (Photo 5), most latches feature a deadlatch to deter this method of entry (Photo 6). Directly behind the latch is a smaller pin, which serves to freeze the latch in place when it is held back (Photo 7). The idea is that when the door is closed, the hold in the strike plate of the door frame is only large enough to allow for the latch to fall in, not the smaller pin. If the lock on the door has a deadlatch, and it is properly installed and adjusted (that is, the latch becomes frozen in place when the door is closed), it cannot be shimmed.

While it is true that most doors feature a deadlatch, especially those encountered on exterior house doors, it is actually fairly uncommon for 5 them to work as intended. When latches begin to bind or wear, the deadlocking function is often the

5 - Non-deadlocking latches are usually easy bypassed.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 27 9 6 - Latches like this Kwikset latch are designed to deter shimming. ﬁ rst thing to go. Moreover it is often 6 the case for the entire latch, pin and all, to drop into the hole in the strike plate due to poor 9 - Commercially available tools like this one are a installation (Photo 8). good alternative to credit cards. Another possibility, 10 especially with exterior house doors, is the presence of weather stripping. Sometimes the door can be pulled against this weather stripping, which will compress. 7 - When properly installed and 10 - Air wedges can be used to create a gap for tool 7 functioning, the entry. latch becomes frozen in place.

This extra movement sometimes allows just enough room for the pin to drop in, allowing the latch to be shimmed. When the door is pulled a distinct “click” can be heard, a good clue that the latch can now be bypassed.

Various tools can be used in the shimming of 8 latches. The most typical tool is a small PVC (plastic) card, such as a gift card. For reasons of professionalism it is typically not recommended to use old gift cards, but blank PVC cards can be purchased in bulk fairly inexpensively on the Internet (50 cards for $20 or so). Other materials can 8 - If the entire latch falls be used, and some locksmith distributors sell plastic tools into the strike plate it may of various shapes thicknesses for this reason (Photo 9). be possible to shim it. Some locksmiths prefer wires bent into different shapes to work the latch back, others yet utilize air wedges (such as those used in car opening, Photo 10) to create space for tool entry. Another tool useful with this technique is a spray lubricant, which can help with particularly tight installations. Regardless of the tool used, it’s often useful

28 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 9 11 - On some tight doors it is easiest to to start the tool near the bottom or start the tool near the bottom or top of the top of the door where there is more door. ﬂ ex to make room (Photo 11). 11

Next on the list of bypass options are impact tools. Peterson has a novel tool: “The SCHLAGE

9 - Commercially available tools like this one are a BALDWIN RAPPER” ($20.00) which exploits a design good alternative to credit cards. feature in Baldwin and Schlage F series knobsets. You place it against the plug, (locates in the keyway by way of two pins) and give it a rap with a hammer while lightly attempting to turn the knob. Presto the knob turns and the door opens. I spoke with Ken at Peterson 12 - Pick guns typically work very well on Manufacturing and he mentioned residential locks. that this tool was not on the 12 website, it is a tool he sells at trade shows or when locksmiths call in. 585-264- 1199 Eastern Time – USA.

10 - Air wedges can be used to create a gap for tool For a long time manual and electronic pick guns entry. (Photo 12) have been used with fairly high rates of success in lockout 13 - Bump keys are a less desirable option than pick guns. 13

situations, and more recently bump keys have become popular (Photo 13). Pick guns are especially

14 - Using a pick gun to unlock a Kwikset door knob. 14 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 29 15 - Using a bump key in a Kwikset door knob.

useful in less paracentric keyways, which would include most residential keyways. The key to success with pick guns is very light tension used in conjunction with light bouncing (Photo 15 14). The goal is to apply tension at the critical moment when the top and bottom pins are separated, leaving

16 - Impression- the shear line free of any 16 ing may be a last obstruction. resort method of entry, but is particularly useful if As mentioned, bump there are multiple keys are another option keyed-alike doors to open. in the impact tools category (Photo 15). Bump keys rely on the same basic principles of physics as pick guns; however the mechanism of impact is obviously different. With bump keys the general consensus is that higher quality pin tumbler locks are more susceptible to bumping. This is because with higher quality locks 17 comes tighter tolerances, meaning more effi cient energy distribution when the bump key is used. Unfortunately for those dealing with 17 - The drill, jokingly referred to by some as the “rotary house lockouts, most residential locks pick,” is sometimes the last option available. are not of the highest quality. As such, most locksmiths fi nd that bumping residential locks can be sometimes more diffi cult than bumping commercial locks. For this reason pick guns may be more practical than bump keys in residential lockout situations.

Impressioning (Photo 16) is the next option, although not a particularly practical one. Many residential locks are sloppy, in poor condition, and

18 - Some choose to 18 mark the cylinder prior to drilling.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 30 characterized by fairly rounded bottom pins. All of these factors can make impressioning more difﬁ cult, which, combined by the fact that impressioning can sometimes take as much as 10 to 20 minutes or more, makes impressioning one of the last options before damaging the lock. That being said, impressioning can be particularly useful if the door hardware is of a particularly unusual style or ﬁ nish, or if it is known that two or more doors which are keyed alike need to be opened. Also, some garage overhead doors or screen doors feature wafer locks which are fairly simple to impression keys for, if picking is not working.

The last option is typically using destructive entry techniques, such as drilling (Photo 17). When drilling, the most universal technique is to drill a small hole right where the shear line is (Photo 18, 19, and 20). Other options are available though. In some deadbolts, for example, a hole can be drilled through the housing to allow access to the bolt with an ice pick. Once the lock has been drilled and the door is open, typically the customer will need it repaired. Due to the relatively low cost 19 - The shear line is drilled. of most residential locks, this is often done by simply replacing the whole lock. Some locksmiths charge customers for the replacement lock, while others 19 choose to provide the replacement lock free of charge if drilling is needed.

Once the door is unlocked it is usually prudent to allow the customer to open it. The reason for this is opening the door may be an opportunity for an over-excited family pet to make a run for it, something no locksmith wants to deal with. The next order of business is verifying the customer’s authority to be in the house, if it wasn’t possible to beforehand. An ID with the address listed is best, but sometimes that is not possible. Another good option is to request the ID and mail with the address and name on it, but care should be taken to observe where the mail is coming from (it should come from within the house, such as a magazine sitting on a coffee table, Photo 21). If

20 - After the hole is cleared out a ﬂ at screwdriver can rotate the 20 plug to the unlocked position.

31 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 there is any question about the customer’s presence in the house, or if something really feels off, the police should be called just to be sure.

It is also important to make sure the lock is in good working order. If it was picked, make sure the plug is rotated back to the neutral 12 o’clock position and that the customer’s key still works. If the latch was shimmed, it is important to unlock the lock as well once it is open so the customer doesn’t accidentally lock him or herself out again.

With regard to paper work, some locksmiths choose to include a little more information on the invoice with lockouts than with other calls. For example some include the customer’s driver’s license number, as well as the exact time of the call rather than just the date.

21 21 - Valid ID should be checked upon entry.

The photographs for this article were taken by Mike Morain who can be reached at mike.morain@gmail. If you have any questions about the article itself you can reach the author, Matthew Myers, by email at New Product Releases* . . . Inventive Ideas that Work . . . Grimestopper* Hinge Doctor Bridges* by GKL Products by GKL Products by GKL Products A Spring loaded lock cylinder protector. Corrects sagging doors The “Hinge Doctor” Specialists . . . Protection against . . . in seconds! Weather, Salt, Water, Rain, Snow, Sleet, Ice, Dust, Dirt, Mud, and Sand

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32 The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 IMPRESSIONING

BASICSBy Matthew Myers, CPL

Like sight readings locks, impressioning is one of the more impressive skills that locksmiths keep hid- den away in their metaphorical tool box. For the sake of this article, impressioning refers to a specifi c method of generating a functioning key from a key blank. The locksmith specially prepares the correct key blank, inserts and manipulates the key in the lock, and then cuts or fi les the key according to the marks visible on the key blank.

1- Selecting the proper key blanks an important fi rst step in impressioning Some applications of this technique are obvious, but others may not be. Typical uses for impressioning include generation of keys when they have been lost, such as with cars, motorcycles, or offi ce furniture. With practice impressioning can be a time saver because the lock doesn’t need to be disassembled. Another sometimes overlooked application for impressioning is the generation of keys in the event of a lockout. This can be the case not only with cars but also with houses, where the creation of a key before breaking out the drill will often be greatly appreciated by the customer. Impressioning can be used to generate keys for many different types of locks. Described in this article will be wafer locks and pin tumbler locks, but other locks, such as tubular, can sometimes be easily impressed as well. To fi t a key by impressioning the proper key blank is fi rst selected, such as an SC1 blank with some Schlage locks (photo 1). Depending on the type of lock being impressed the key blank will then be specially prepared. Typically, it is fi led so that the marks will be easier to distinguish, but more on that later. When the key blank is inserted into the lock, the tumblers (pin or wafer for example) will prevent the rotation of the plug. By putting a turning force on the key we are binding these tumblers against the housing, similar to when we use a tension wrench during lock picking. Rocking the key up into these bound tumblers will cause them to impress against the key blank, hopefully leaving small visible marks. It is the small marks left on the key blank which provide the clues we need to make a working key. The idea is fairly simple: if a tumbler leaves a mark on the key, it is not at the proper height and therefore needs to be cut lower. If the cut is at the proper 2- Without commercially made tools, vice grips do a good job height the tumbler will not be bound, so it will not leave any marks on the key.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 33 3- Flat pins can leave less distinct marks The two most difficult parts of impressioning are obtaining the marks and interpreting the marks. Prop- erly working the key blank in the lock takes a lot of practice, and everyone seems to have their own favorite technique. For the sake of comfort, and to get a little more leverage, the first step is to fix a pair of 6-inch vice grips to the head of the key (such as in photo 2). Alter- natively many commercially made impressioning grips or handles are available. Regardless of your personal technique, the process of moving the key in the lock follows these three basic steps: Bind, Move, Release We start by binding the tumblers. This involves applying a turning force to the key, enough to bind the tumblers but not so much as to damage the blank. While holding the key in this position, moving the key upward (toward the pins in a pin tumbler lock for example) will cause them to leave marks on the key. We then release 4- Wafer tumblers tend to leave better marks this binding pressure by returning the key to a neutral position (such as 12 o’cock); this is often accompanied by the sound of tumblers springing back down on top of the key after having been forced up. This whole process is then repeated multiple times to generate marks. With the method described above there are two general ways the key can be moved upwards. First is to start with the key down and pivot the grip up. This (slightly) tips the end of the key down, and the front of the key up, allowing the tumblers closer toward the head of the key to mark better. The opposite of this is to start with the key pivoted upward slightly before binding, and then tipping the key downward once the tumblers have been bound. This can move the tip of the 5- A mark left by a wafer tumbler key upward, isolating the further tumblers in the lock. I have noticed when observing some seasoned locksmiths that they alternate these two movements one after the other when impressioning. The resulting movement resembles a figure-eight of sorts. This method of obtaining marks on the blank is difficult to both describe and master, but comes with practice. Just remember: bind – move – release. Obtaining marks is only one part though. The other challenging aspect of impressioning is finding and interpreting the marks left on the key. The first step in finding marks is to know where to look, which is where knowing your lock comes in handy (for example knowing the number of pins or wafers and the spacing). Of course knowing what the marks look like is important too. The type of tumbler will dictate what shape mark is left on the key. Pin tumbler locks will leave small round dots, which come from the bottom points of the pins. These small dots can be difficult to see, especially with pins that are worn or fairly flat (see the difference between Schlage and Kwikset pins in photo 3). Marks left by wafer tumblers (photo 4), on the other hand, are typically easier to see. The sharp edges often dig into the key, leaving very crisp marks (photo 5). These are rectangular in shape, sometimes just appearing on the edge of the blank. They may simply look like a line. Some locksmiths like to use visual aids such as magnifying glasses (photo 6) to look for marks when impressioning. Keeping the shape of the marks in mind we can specially prepare the blank to make our lives a little easier, before even starting the impressioning process. The most typical key blank preparation involves leaving

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 34 6- A magnifying glass can be useful the blank pretty much as it is except for cleaning the in looking for marks top edge. This is done with one or two strokes of the file to leave a uniform finish; marks will contrast well against this. Another option, specifically for use when impressioning wafer tumbler locks, is a technique called “knife edging” the blank. This involves using the file to take down the side of the key blank, leaving a narrow lip along the top on which the wafer tumblers contact the key. As the name implies this leaves the key resem- bling a knife, the edge of which is the part touching the tumblers (photo 7). The idea behind this is fairly simple. Less surface area means more pressure (lbs / in2; we keep the same lbs when we move the key but decrease the surface area), resulting in more damage to the blank and more obvious marks. When we use this method the wafer basically crushes the edge, leaving very obvious marks. There are other things you can do to the key blank prior to starting as well. Rather than using a file, some locksmiths like to use a code cutting machine to pre-cut the key with all shallow cuts (for example all 0’s). This serves a couple purposes. First of all it cleans the key blank for you, leaving a nice finish on which to look for marks. Secondly it takes away the guess work of where to look for the marks. Alternatively you can use a code machine to set up your spacing (just touching the blank with the cutting wheel enough to leave a mark), and then use a fine pippen file to clean up the blank only in the proper spaces. The file will leave a slightly cleaner finish than a cutting wheel. 7- Knife edging a blank is very useful when impressioning wafer locks So now that we’ve prepped the key and ob- tained some marks, we have to cut the key. There are two ways to cut the key. More traditionally, a file is used to manually make the cuts. Swiss pippen files (photo 8) are commonly used, but some prefer rat tail files (photo 9). Alternatively some use a code cutting machine to make more precise cuts throughout the entire process. Many wafer locks (cam locks, and especially car locks) use alternating wafers. In other words the even cuts on one side of the key and the odd cuts on the other side correspond with the actual placement of the wafers in the lock. Keep this in mind! When filing the key there are a couple of important considerations, first of which is how much to file away. Purists will say to only file enough off the key so you can’t see the mark any more, but technically speaking, you can take off one full cut. The amount of 8- A “pippen” file, while expensive, is the best a full cut will, of course, depend on the depth gradu- choice for impressioning ations of that particular lock. The second consideration is the shape of the cut. It’s important to leave adequate slopes on either side of the cut so the key doesn’t get stuck in the lock (getting a key stuck in a wafer lock is slightly easier to accomplish than in a pin tumbler lock). Besides location and the mere existence of marks we can glean some other clues from them, especially as we get closer to being done. For starters,

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 35 marks tend to be very distinct when we get down to the final one or two marks. This is because when all but one or two tumblers are lined up, all of our turning pressure is put onto the few remaining tumblers, binding them with a lot of force and therefore leaving very good marks. Then there’s the moment the key finally turns: success! We’re not quite done though. If the key is very difficult to turn it means some of our cuts aren’t quite low enough. As we are forcing that key the wafers or pins are likely digging into the key, leaving beautiful marks. If, on the other 9 – Some people prefer the cheaper “rat tail” files hand, we have filed too much of the key away, it may “snap” as you turn it. If the need arises one trick to make up for filing a little too far is to use a punch and a hammer. You set the key down and 10- The final step in impressioning any hammer just below the cut in the key to create a small bulge. lock is to generate an original key Speaking of hammering keys, it becomes pretty apparent after impressioning a lock that the key isn’t in great shape. The cuts are often not perfectly formed and, most importantly, the key becomes fatigued from the turning force applied to it. As such, unless you are just using the key tempo- rarily, the final step is to generate a fresh code cut

key (photo 10). And we are done! The whole process can be completed fairly rapidly. With inexpensive wafer locks, times of less than 5 minutes are common, with pin tumbler locks being slightly more involved. Like picking locks, it depends on a lot of factors and sometimes just simply doesn’t happen. In locksport circles, particularly in Europe, impressioning competitions are gaining pop- ularity where keys are being impressed for five pin Abus locks at times sometimes less than one minute. I would like to conclude this article with a few final miscellaneous thoughts. First of all, know that there are some dangers associated with impressioning. Some locks are simply too cheap and weak to handle it. Wafers can be bent or broken, for example. Also, keep in mind that lubrication can make impressioning exceedingly difficult, so if you (or the customer) decided to give the lock a shot of lubricant earlier you may want to try something else. Cleaning the lock out with carburetor cleaner might be an option. Finally, remember that not all key blanks are created equally. Softer key blanks are going to be more re- ceptive to marks, while harder blanks (such as steel) aren’t going to be particularly cooperative.

The Independent Locksmith Journal March-April 2010 36