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Thame Conservation Area Character Appraisal

The conservation area character appraisal - this sets the context for the proposals contained in Part 2. Part 1 was adopted by Council in September and is included for information only.

April 2006

Part 1 Introduction trees are also identified. These are usually highly visible from public places This conservation area character and/or they contribute to the setting of appraisal has been undertaken to a listed building. Important open assist in defining the special character spaces are identified, as these are a of the Thame Conservation Area. An vital element in the character of an appreciation of this special character is area. Character is defined not just by essential in order to manage change buildings, walls and trees, but also by within the conservation area. This the spaces between them. These appraisal is part of the duty placed on contribute to the setting of buildings. the local authority by the 1990 They allow views around the area and Planning (Listed Buildings and they are often an important element in Conservation Areas) Act to determine the historical development of a which parts of their area are areas of settlement. special architectural or historic interest, the character or appearance of which it Important unlisted walls are identified. is desirable to preserve or enhance. These are usually built of local The Act also states that the local materials and help to define spaces planning authority should, from time to and frame views. Lastly, important time, formulate and publish proposals views into, out of and around the for the preservation and enhancement Conservation Area are identified. It of these Conservation Areas. These should be appreciated that a are the subject of a separate Conservation Area's character does not management plan. end with a line drawn on a map. Often the character is closely associated with As part of this exercise a plan of the attractive views out to surrounding conservation area had been produced countryside, sometimes via gaps which aims to identify the elements between buildings. Views within an which contribute to the character. The area such as that to a church or plan includes the conservation area particularly attractive group of buildings boundary, listed buildings (buildings are also important. identified by the Department of Culture, Media and Sport as being of special architectural or historic interest), former Grade III listed buildings (a now obsolete category but where the buildings may still be of architectural or historic interest) and other buildings of local note. This latter group consists of buildings that play a part in establishing the character of the street scene but have not yet been considered to be of sufficient importance to meet the current criteria for listing. Recent government guidance contained in PPG.15 - Planning and the Historic Environment indicates, however, that there is a presumption against the demolition of such buildings. Important

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 1 South Oxfordshire District Council 2 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council 1 Thame There is speculation that Thame - Historical context suffered a Danish raid in the tenth century, but there is scant evidence for Anglo Saxon Period this.

(400 AD - 1066) Along with Banbury, Cropredy, Great The story of modern day Thame really Milton and Dorchester itself, Thame begins in the Anglo Saxon period. In was part of the demesne lands of the the four hundred years from the dawn Bishop of Dorchester in the late Anglo of English Christianity to the Norman Saxon Period. Conquest, Thame and nearly all of the towns and villages around it were Domesday Period (1066 - 1099) established. The Domesday Book, compiled in Thame was on the southern fringes of 1086, records the manor of Thame as the Anglo Saxon kingdom of Mercia, belonging to the Bishop of Lincoln, a Wulfhere, son of Penda, and related to man named Remigius. The entry for the later King Offa, was King of Mercia the manor of Thame included the in the late seventh century. He was the settlements at Moreton, North Weston, first of the royal line of Mercia to be Tetsworth, Attington and possibly converted to Christianity, and in a Waterstock. charter dated 675 King Wulfhere of Before the Norman Conquest, Thame Mercia bestowed an abbey at Chertsey belonged to the Bishop of Dorchester, whilst himself at Thame. who in 1066 was a man named Wulfig, Historians have speculated that Thame appointed by Edward the Confessor. was at this time one of a number of A Benedictine monk, Remigius from royal minster settlements, under Fecamp on the coast of Normandy had Mercian overlordship. St. Mary's provided ships and men to William the Church at Thame dates from after the Conqueror's cause and had been Norman Conquest, but it is known to promised the first available Bishopric in have been built on the site of an earlier England in return. When Wulfwig died Anglo Saxon church. This may have in 1067 Remigius duly became Bishop been the original site of the royal of Dorchester, and when in or around minster building, perhaps with a 1072 the seat of this huge diocese was surrounding enclosure. moved from Dorchester to Lincoln, There is reference in the Anglo Saxon Remigius became the first ever Bishop Chronicles to Thame only once. This is of Lincoln, and Thame entered into a in the year 970 or 971 (depending on long period of being one of the the interpretation chosen), when a man demesne lands of the Bishopric of called Oskytel, Bishop of Dorchester Lincoln. and Archbishop of York, died whilst at Thame. 12th Century Period (1100 - 1199) In the centuries before Domesday, the Anglo Saxons developed a system of Alexander de Blois, known as land tenure based on the hundred and Alexander the Magnificent, was Bishop the hide. Thame appears to have been of Lincoln from 1123 to 1147. During a regional administrative centre during this time he was lord of the manor of these times. Thame. Originally planning to turn a

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 3 South Oxfordshire District Council large tract of uncultivated land King John. In 1215, the year of Magna bordering on his manor at Thame into Carta, King John granted a market a deer park, in 1138 this land, known to charter for Thame to Bishop Hugh de us today as Thame Park, was given to Welles. This was confirmed in 1227 by the Cistercian monks of Otmoor by Henry III (1216 - 1272). Bishop Alexander. The monks moved King Henry III also granted Hugh de in, and presumably an abbey was Welles a licence to divert the King's constructed, between 1139 and 1142 Highway through Thame in 1219. This becoming named as Sancta Maria de is a crucial event in the development of Parco Thame. Thame as a town. In the same year, During the time of Bishop Alexander, 1219, Bishop Hugh de Welles granted Thame church became a prebend of timber for the construction of a Court the Cathedral of Lincoln, increasing its House, near what is now Church Row, importance within the diocese. The to replace an earlier administrative hall. establishment of a prebendal At Thame Park, the Cistercian monks community based around the new also received favour from Henry III. In Prebendal House followed, giving 1224 the Abbot of Thame received the Priestend its name. right to export wool free of royal A new town was built at Thame in the customs duty and in 1232 new choir twelfth century, with its characteristic stalls were paid for at Thame Abbey by burgage plots and wide market place, the King typical of many new towns of the time. In 1235 Robert Grosseteste, the then It is thought this new town, known as Bishop of Lincoln, instructed a new New Thame, was laid out during the church to be built at Thame. The new time of Alexander the Magnificent of construction of St. Mary's began in Lincoln, between 1123 and 1147. The 1240 destroying most of what would manors of Old Thame and Priestend, have almost certainly been a timber together with New Thame, were for building, possibly remnants of the several centuries administered as former Anglo Saxon church separate manors. In 1241 the chapel within the grounds The see of Lincoln fell vacant for a of the Prebendal House was built, and period in the late twelfth century, and in this same year Bishop Grosseteste the manors reverted to the King, Henry entered into a bitter dispute with King II. However, Walter de Coutances, Henry III over the prebend at Thame. Bishop of Lincoln from 1183 to 1186, This was finally resolved when John restored Thame to at least partial Mansel, who as Royal Chancellor and Episcopal control. He secured market one of the most wealthy ecclesiastics charters for the town from Henry II and of the time declined the office of the held regular Tuesday markets and a prebend offered to him by the King, fair at Michaelmas. allowing Bishop Grosseteste's nominee, a man called Simon of 13th Century Period (1200 - 1299) London, to take up office. Bishop Hugh de Welles, also known as Royal inquests into the affairs of the Hugh Trotman, regained full realm, known as Hundredal Inquests possession of the manors of New and recorded for us today in well Thame and Old Thame in 1213 from preserved manuscripts called Hundred

4 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Rolls, reveal that the Bishops of persuading King Edward I to withdraw Lincoln expanded the town of New the market charter from nearby Thame by erecting permanent shops Haddenham, on competition grounds. and stalls in the middle of the market In 1309 the Bishop granted money to place. In 1255 the Hundred Rolls of repair the Crendon Bridge, which had King Henry III tell us that a certain been broken down in 1294. In 1335 Geoffrey Taylor and five others were however the bridge collapsed and there paying rent to the Bishop of Lincoln for was for many years thereafter a their shops in the middle of Thame dispute over who should maintain it. In market place. 1317, the year following two bad Although Thame's wide high street is harvests throughout England, the road one of many such well preserved from Thame to Sydenham was examples in England, it is very rare for enclosed within Thame Park. This the road still to pass either side of this extension to the park may have been thirteenth century infill as we see at to accommodate more sheep. Thame today. An early act of the new King Edward III Thame's Cistercian Abbey, which had was to confirm Thame's market charter, originally been founded as a daughter which he did in 1329. The fourteenth house of Waverley Abbey, the first century also brought a new style of Cistercian house in Britain, itself house construction to Thame, and founded its own daughter house, houses built using a 'cruck' frame Rewley Abbey in Oxford in 1281. began to appear. Prosperous merchant families were developing in Thame. In 1293 and 1294 there was another The Elys family were wool merchants, dispute over the prebend of Thame, and the wool of Robert Elys of Thame this time involving a prolonged and was on board a ship captured by the violent occupation of Thame church by Admiral of Calais in 1316. In 1340 the supporters of the Pope's nominee Richard Elys became one of the few Edward son of St. John de St. John, local men to be appointed Vicar of against the wishes of Oliver Sutton, Thame. In 1345 a certain Edward le then Bishop of Lincoln, who had Spicer, a mercer of Thame, used his appointed his nephew Thomas de money to begin constructing a Sutton, Archdeacon of Northampton. causeway between Thame and Rycote, The bailiffs of Thame and Banbury, and which was then still a village various other men of the Bishop community. eventually blockaded the town, digging dykes across five roads into the town The middle years of the 14th century and breaking down the Crendon saw the plague known as the Black Bridge. Death introduced into England, and fully one third of the country's 14th Century Period (1300 - 1399) population is thought to have perished. Enclosure of land for sheep, together The first half of the fourteenth century with the Black Death, may have saw Thame build upon the prosperity contributed towards the eventual its market charter, religious houses and demise of local villages such as Rycote new town had brought in the previous and Albury. Thame however, was century. In 1302 Bishop John d'Alderby, without doubt a prosperous and Bishop of Lincoln, succeeded in growing town, and it survived the

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 5 South Oxfordshire District Council ravages of the plague, playing host to house. North Weston manor house King Edward III in 1365 and Edmund of was known as Hall Place and little or York, Guardian of England, in 1399. nothing of it remains today. Richard and Sybil Quartermain are buried in 15th Century Period (1400 - 1499) Thame Church, where their tomb is decorated with fine brasses depicting Richard Quartermain was a significant them and, it is thought, Richard Fowler. fifteenth century benefactor of Thame. His family had held the manor of North In 1419 another 'subinfeudated' manor Weston since the twelfth century. North is first recorded at Thame. Baldington Weston was not mentioned in the manor was named after the Baldington Domesday Book, being a part of the family. The manor had lands in Old manor of Thame, but it later became a Thame, Moreton and North Weston 'subinfeudated' manor of Old Thame. and property in New Thame. Richard That is to say, a subsidiary manor Quartermain was only one of two whose lord was vested with feudal exceptionally wealthy fifteenth century rights such as the ability to hold merchants within the parish of Thame, manorial courts. the other was Geoffrey Dormer. The Dormer family had long been resident The Domesday manor of Rycote had in Thame and Geoffrey Dormer passed by marriage to the steward of became a merchant of the staple of Richard II's household, Nicholas Calais. In 1473 this wealthy wool Englefield, in the fourteenth century. In merchant is said to have bought the 1415 Nicholas Englefield died and the Baldington Manor House, also known manor of Rycote passed to Richard as Place House, which was situated off Quartermain of North Weston through what is now North St., Thame. his marriage to Richard Englefield's daughter Sybil. The Dormers were noted for their acquisition of land throughout the Richard had been trained in the manors of Thame, and had a Customs in London, and was reputation for enclosing land much to throughout his life a patron of trade and the inconvenience of other tenants. commerce and a benefactor of the Geoffrey Dormer, for instance, was poor and needy. At Thame he endowed presented in 1481 for enclosing land at the original Alms House near the Moreton. The manor of Baldington was Church, and created the Chantry or passed on by Geoffrey Dormer to his Guild of St. Christopher. The south son, also Geoffrey Dormer, in 1498. transept of St. Mary's Church became known as St. Christopher's Chapel. Early 16th Century Period At Rycote, close to his own manor (1500 - 1530) house, Richard Quartermain built a In the first year of the reign of King chapel and chantry, consecrated in Henry VIII, there is the first mention of 1449. Richard Quartermain died the market hall or 'moot' hall at Thame. childless and left the bulk of his estate Prior to this market hall, which stood to his protégé Richard Fowler, who had more or less where Thame Town Hall risen to become Chancellor of the stands today, it is thought that the Duchy of Lancaster and lived at North building used for conducting market Weston manor house whilst the business and for confining Quartermains lived at Rycote manor transgressors was the oldest part of

6 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council the building which is today the made Abbot and instead Robert King, Birdcage pub. whose brother William was a brother- in-law to Sir John Williams, was In 1514 Thomas Wolsey, King Henry's appointed as the last Abbot of Thame. Lord Chancellor, began building Hampton Court Palace. It is thought The following year, 1530, King Henry that Rycote Palace, a building of VIII is said to have visited Thame and similar style and proportions, was built been entertained at the Red Lion Inn around 1520-25, on the site of Richard with both his first wife Catherine of Quartermain's former manor house at Aragon and his next wife, then a lady Rycote Park. in waiting, Anne Boleyn.

It is not known for certain who built The Reformation Period Rycote Palace and when, the accepted (1531 - 1559) date of its construction coming from comparison with such building styles as The Reformation of the English Church those seen at Hampton Court. Richard and Dissolution of the Monasteries Fowler the younger with a reputation were to have a profound effect on as a spendthrift sold the Rycote estate Thame Church and Thame Park. In to Sir John Heron, treasurer of the 1537 John Stribblehill and his father royal household, in 1521, after plunging Thomas, two leading church wardens it into ruin. The construction of the and supporters of King Henry VIII's Tudor palace at Rycote was either the policy towards the Church, made a cause of Richard Fowler's ruin, or the complaint to their fellow churchwardens work of the King's treasurer, Sir John about the remarks of one Robert Heron. Johns. Johns had been heard to suggest that the parish jewels be sold At Thame Park, the Cistercian Abbey in order to repair the church, which was was only a few decades away from in a state of decay, before Henry final dissolution. The behaviour of the confiscated them. Thame Abbey was monks and the Abbot were giving dissolved in 1539, along with all other cause for concern. In 1525 the Bishop monastic foundations in England. The of Lincoln, John Longlands, who was lands belonging to the Abbey were also confessor to King Henry VIII, shortly afterwards given to Sir John wrote to the person responsible for Williams. The choir stalls and linenfold order at Thame Abbey, the Abbot at panelling, perhaps those provided by Waverley, complaining about the state King Henry III in the thirteenth century, of affairs at the Abbey. The buildings were removed to Thame Church in were reported to be in ruin, although 1540. the Abbot of Thame Abbey, John Warren, was said to be furnishing In 1539, Sir John Williams also himself with a grand lodging. The acquired Rycote Palace from Sir Giles monks were said to hold great feasts at Heron, the son of Sir John Heron who the local taverns, although the Abbey had bought it in 1521. King Henry VIII was in debt, owing money to the Vicar spent part of his honeymoon with his of Thame among others. fifth wife, Catherine Howard, at Rycote Palace in 1540. At John Warren's death in 1529 Bishop Longlands advised Cardinal Wolsey In 1541 Robert King, brother-in-law to that none of the local monks should be Sir John Williams and last Abbot of

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 7 South Oxfordshire District Council Thame Park, for whom Sir John The Elizabethan Period Williams had secured the position of (1560 - 1603) Abbot of Osney in 1537, became The will of Lord Williams, former lord of Bishop of Thame and Osney. In 1545 the manor of Thame, contained several he was appointed first Bishop of endowments to the benefit of the town, Oxford, initially based at Osney, and the most notable of these being the the see of Thame and Osney lapsed. establishment of Thame Grammar In 1543 a clock is first recorded in School and the endowment of Thame's Thame market hall, when the Alms Houses. churchwardens paid 5 shillings to Lord Williams' elder daughter Marjorie repair it. Thame's ancient wooden inherited the manor of Thame and also market cross was reportedly taken her father's former home at Rycote down in 1553. Palace. She married Henry Norreys in Henry VIII died in 1547 and it was 1546, whose father had been executed during the reign of his infant son, in 1536 as a suspected lover of Anne Edward VI (1547-1553), that the manor Boleyn, mother of Queen Elizabeth I. and prebend of Thame were The Queen is believed to have relinquished by the Bishop of Lincoln, sympathised with Henry Norreys over Henry Holbeach, and given to the King. the wrongful execution of his father. The manor of Thame was passed on to She made him her ambassador to Sir John Williams and the prebend to France. Marjorie Norreys initiated the Sir John Thynne. Sir John Williams building of Thame Grammar School in was seemingly an unpopular landlord, 1569 and it opened in the following and in 1549 the people rose up and year, 1570. Both the new Grammar killed the deer in Rycote Park and School and the Alms Houses passed Thame Park. In the same year two into the care of the warden of New men were ordered to 'suffer at Thame' College Oxford in 1575. There was a for their part in a revolt in Oxfordshire long and close friendship between against the religious changes made by Queen Elizabeth I and Henry and Henry VIII. Marjorie Norreys. Elizabeth paid affectionate visits to Rycote Palace for Sir John Williams was instrumental in over a quarter of a century whilst she facilitating the accession to the throne was Queen of England. She had also of Queen Mary, and was rewarded with spent much time there during her a Baronetcy, becoming Baron Williams childhood. Henry Norreys, then Baron of Thame. He was also President of Norreys of Rycote, died in 1601, two the Council of the Marches of Wales, years before his beloved Queen being of Welsh origin himself, and it Elizabeth herself. was whilst at Ludlow Castle in 1559 that Baron Williams of Thame died. John Williams' younger daughter Isobel John Williams' body was brought back inherited Thame Park from her father. to Thame and today lies in St. Mary's She had married Sir Richard Wenman, Church. a wealthy wool merchant from Witney, who died in 1572. In 1596, the grandson of Sir Richard Wenman, also called Richard, and resident at Thame Park, received a knighthood whilst serving at Cadiz.

8 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council The Early Stuart Period the Wrays. Although lords of the manor (1604 - 1641) of Thame, the Wray's leased the manor house and lands of Old Thame to Although Sir Richard Wenman of Vincent Barry, possibly in 1626. Thame Park was suspected of complicity in the Gunpowder Plot of The Civil War Period (1642 - 1646) 1605, nothing seems to have been proven as he became the first Viscount During the early years of the English Wenman in 1628. Civil War between Parliament and Charles I, the land east of the Chiltern King James enforced a penalty for not Hills, towards London, and to the north attending Church, as an attempt to of the Vale of Aylesbury, was controlled quell Roman Catholic opposition, and by Parliament. The land to the west of at Thame several Roman Catholics Oxford, Oxford City itself and key towns were fined for not attending St. Mary's in the Thames Valley, such as Church in the years following the Wallingford, were controlled by the Gunpowder Plot. The Vicar of Thame King. The King himself set up court at at the start of the 17th century was Oxford. Manor houses and market John Trinder, who began keeping towns along the Oxfordshire border, parish records, most of which have such as Thame, were called upon to survived to this day. feed, house and tend the wounds of Thomas Hennant, related by marriage soldiers from both sides as the conflict to the family of Oliver Cromwell and progressed. In 1643 Thame was not John Hampden, who were themselves openly Royalist or Parliamentarian, cousins, was appointed Vicar of Thame although the sentiment within the town from 1631. The Grammar School at was said to be generally Puritan and Thame was at this time prospering, pro Parliament. educating amongst others the young The Earl of Essex, commanding the John Hampden. Its Head Master from Parliamentary army locally made a 1631 to 1647 was William Burt, who push in early 1643 to close in on was also related by marriage to the Oxford, and set up his headquarters in Cromwells and Hampdens. With both Thame. This was to have a devastating the Vicar and Grammar School effect on Thame. In the summer of Principal possessing strong Puritan 1643 an outbreak of what is thought to beliefs, we can perhaps conclude have been typhus hit Thame, and 141 where the loyalties of the people out of an estimated population churchwardens lay, and they granted of 1300 died in a single ten week Thomas Hennant a house in Thame period. churchyard. Prince Rupert mounted raids out of The grandson of Sir Henry Norreys had Oxford against the Parliamentarian inherited Rycote, but he committed army's positions. It was in returning to suicide in 1623. His daughter Elizabeth Oxford from one such raid that the married Edward Wray, Groom of the Royalist party engaged at Chalgrove Bedchamber to King James I, in 1622. with a Parliamentarian contingent led In 1625 King Charles I moving his by John Hampden. In the resulting court to Oxford, to avoid plague in battle John Hampden was mortally London, and broke his journey at wounded. He managed to make his Rycote Palace, to be entertained by way to Thame, where six days later he

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 9 South Oxfordshire District Council died, on 24th June 1643. The following buildings taken over by the soldiers, month the Parliamentarian army including the Grammar School, the retreated from Thame and the Earl of Vicarage and St. Mary's Church. The Essex moved his headquarters to churchwardens of Thame were left to Aylesbury. Anthony Wood was a repair their community. scholar at Thame Grammar School and The prebend of Thame, which in normal was lodging at Thame vicarage during times benefited from the church dues, the conflict. His diaries give a good had passed into the hands of the family account of a Royalist party fleeing back of Sir John Thynne at the Reformation, to Wallingford from Long Crendon, over a century before. Thomas, first through the west end of Thame, in Viscount Weymouth, was descended January 1644. from Sir Thomas Thynne and it was to There was a further skirmish at Thame him that the churchwardens turned. The in April 1645, and by September 1645 a Thynne family had long since substantial Parliamentarian force was abandoned the Prebendal House in once again garrisoned at Thame. One Thame. In 1661 it stood in ruins. Sunday morning a Royalist force from The market at Thame had continued to Oxford rode into Thame market place operate throughout the Civil War, but and attacked them. In December 1645 the local economy suffered several side two regiments of horses from Sir effects of the conflict. One problem was Thomas Fairfax's army at High a shortage of coinage. The town traders Wycombe were moved to Thame, and at Thame issued tokens to be used in that was an end to Royalist attacks. place of coins between 1653 and 1659. When the Royalist garrison at Oxford Upon the restoration of the monarchy in under Sir Thomas Glemham 1660, Charles II imposed a number of surrendered to Fairfax in June 1646 'briefs' on Thame, so that there had to they were allowed to march out of be collections at the church for Oxford with a Regiment on foot of some specified charities. These were not 3000 men, fully armed and with their popular with the struggling Thame colours flying. King Charles had churchwardens. Firstly, in 1660 he ordered them to disband, and when created the Order of the Royal Oak, they reached Thame they disbanded one purpose of which was to raise and were allowed to return home or to money from rich landowners in return leave the country. for membership. Local landowners who The surrender of Oxford and the offered to contribute up to £2000 dignified dispersal of Glemham's troops included Sir John Clerke of North at Thame marked the end of what is Weston and Sir Francis Wenman later known as the first English Civil War. of Thame Park.

Then, in 1662 the King introduced a The Late 17th Century Period Hearth Tax, under which anyone who (1647 - 1699) owned property was taxed according to The Parliamentarian army had been the number of hearths, effectively headquartered in Thame during the rooms, in their house. This tax lasted Civil War. As well as the human cost, until 1689, and the Hearth Tax Returns with a plague in 1643, there was also for Thame have survived. much physical damage done to the At Thame Park the second Viscount

10 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Wenman died in 1664, in a poor state were beginning to organize in Thame. of finances. He had suffered at the In 1728 the first Presbyterian meeting hands of the Cavaliers during the Civil house opened in the yard of the Sun War, having supported Parliament. His Inn, in Thame High St. The minister daughter Mary married her cousin Sir was Rev Matthew Leeson. The Rev Francis Wenman in 1671 and thereby Matthew Leeson took as a pupil a kept Thame Park in the Wenman family. young John Wilkes in 1739. Wilkes was to become a hugely important Bridget, daughter of Edward and figure in the political life of eighteenth Elizabeth Wray, had married Montagu century Britain. Leeson and Wilkes Bertie, second Earl of Lindsey, and it subsequently moved from Thame to was their son James Bertie who was Aylesbury. created Earl of Abingdon by Charles II in 1682, and who inherited the manor of The year 1745 was a year of tragedy Thame, part of it leased to the Barry for Thame's lord of the manor and his family. Perhaps to mark his new family. The heir to the title of Earl of position as Earl of Abingdon, James Abingdon was killed in a fire at Rycote Bertie built a new market hall for Thame Palace, a fire that destroyed the grand in 1684. Tudor Palace patronized by King Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth I. The countryside around Thame had seen both Royalist and Parliamentarian The same year, 1745, saw happier raiding parties during the war. Fifty times for the Wenman family at Thame years later the problem was Park. The 6th Viscount Wenman added 'freebooters', or highwaymen. In 1692 a a grand Palladian frontage to Thame party of fifteen butchers travelling to Park House and so created the classic Thame market was ambushed outside picture of an English country house we Thame. see today. Thame High St. displays to this day something of the grandeur of The Early 18th Century Period Georgian times, with several three (1700 - 1759) storey frontages built onto earlier buildings. In the early years of the eighteenth century, particularly after the The Parliamentary seat of Oxfordshire succession of George I, there was the had been held uncontested by the Tory whiff of rebellion in the air in both Party for many years, often with a England and Scotland. There were member of the Wenman family being several ill-fated Jacobite uprisings and sent to Westminster. In 1754 the ruling consequent arrest and prosecution of Whig Party (the forerunner of the suspected Jacobite sympathizers. Liberal Party) contested the seat. Oxford was known as something of a Women had no vote, and nor did most centre of Jacobite sympathies, and of the men of Thame. Only 83 men, evidently there were some in Thame. In those holding property by freehold, had 1714 a certain John Dorrell of Thame the vote. The votes for the town were was hanged as a Jacobite rebel. declared and they were 71 for the Tory candidates and 12 for the Whig The 1720's were the hey-day of one of (Liberal) candidates, thereby helping to Thame's famous sons, James Figg the maintain the status quo in Oxfordshire. illustrious boxer, champion of England.

In the religious sphere, Nonconformists

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 11 South Oxfordshire District Council The George III Period (1760 - 1820) workhouses, so as to defray the costs of their keep by the fruits of their Turnpike trusts and the building of high labour. In 1763-4 the churchwardens of quality toll roads proliferated Thame, effectively the parish council, throughout the latter half of the advertised for a suitable person to run eighteenth century. Comfortable and a local workhouse. In 1790 a building safe travel by stagecoach from Oxford used in the Middle Ages as a 'bridewell' to London via Thame, and from Thame or local prison in Wellington St., then to many other places now became a called Pound Lane, was converted into reality. The Aylesbury to Shillingford such a workhouse. This venture turnpike opened in 1770. This road apparently failed and the building has runs from Thame via Milton Common since burnt down. to Stadhampton and on to Shillingford. Without the workhouse, the people of The hunting of foxes with hounds in Thame had to support the poor through organised hunts in the Thame area the Poor Rate. In 1811 the sum began in the same year. The fourth required was £3,686, a crippling Earl of Abingdon, Willoughby Bertie, burden for the town and its farming who inherited the title in 1760, stabled community. not only horses but also hunting dogs at Rycote House, which he was Fleeing persecution in France, 18 renovating after the fire of 1745.The Catholic clergy arrived in England and land between Thame and Tetsworth found their way via Reading to Thame. became the hunting ground for the Earl They were accommodated in Thame in of Abingdon's hunt. 1792, in the mansion that stood in the High St. In 1806 the town At Rycote Park Willoughby Bertie accommodated more Frenchmen, this employed the renowned landscape time Napoleonic prisoners awaiting gardener, Lancelot 'Capability' Brown repatriation after the end of the war to transform the gardens, paying him with France. £2,500 in 1778. Willoughby Bertie, the fourth Earl of Abingdon, was a political The Early 19th Century Period radical, as well as huntsman, horse (1821 - 1850) breeder and renovator of Rycote House. Rycote House had been Land enclosure and rural poverty were refurbished since the fire, but in 1779 two great themes of early nineteenth the entire contents of the house, such century Thame life. Thame's open as paintings etc., were sold off. fields were enclosed in 1826, with the town's Enclosure Award. Enclosure Willoughby Bertie died in 1799, and the brought new hedges to the landscape, fifth Earl, Montagu Bertie, took the and turned many smallholders into drastic step of dismantling Rycote agricultural workers paid a wage. House altogether. In 1807 the actual fabric of the building was sold off, such There was already great poverty in that today only the stables remain, rural communities and enclosure was converted into a house. often met with resistance from the local agricultural population. Otmoor saw In the eighteenth century, providing resistance to enclosure in 1829-32 and relief for the poor was the responsibility in 1830-31 there was a rural revolt of each parish. Parishes were allowed across southern England, known as by law to house the poor in

12 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council the 'Captain Swing' uprising. Machinery Prebendal House in 1835, as it had was smashed at Long Crendon, but been in a state of disrepair for some Thame seems to have avoided trouble. time.

The Poor Law Amendment Act of 1834 The Poor Law Unions or Registration divided the country into Poor Law Districts were the basis for the Unions, also known as Registration nineteenth century population Districts, and each district was to have censuses. The first detailed census a workhouse. Poor relief became a was in 1841. The 1841 census returns national matter and no longer a local for Thame give us a view of Thame's obligation. The Thame Poor Law Union population make-up following the comprised 35 local parishes and a upheavals of enclosure, dire local substantial workhouse was built at poverty and the beginnings of new Thame in 1836. building in the eastern part of the town.

Another great theme of Thame life at In 1844 Montagu Bertie, 5th Earl of this time was the growing influence of Abingdon, offered his lands in Thame the Nonconformist population. In 1827 for sale. He succeeded in selling a Congregationalist Chapel opened at Priestend, but not Old Thame, New 14 High St., now the site of the Thame and North Weston, which Masonic Hall. A Primitive Methodist remained in the Bertie family. chapel began at Moreton in 1830. The Mid 19th Century Period The Nonconformist influenced 'British (1851 - 1870) and Foreign Schools Society' opened a Royal British School in Park St., Thame The years between 1851 and around in 1836, now the John Hampden 1865 are known by historians as a County Primary School. Golden Age of High Farming in England. This was also a time when Following a local meeting, the 'National Britain was known as 'The Workshop of Society for the Education of the Poor in the World'. Rural towns like Thame the Principles of the Church of supplied food to a growing industrial England' opened a National School on population. In turn, local agriculture land donated by the Earl of Abingdon and town life in general began to in the Hog Fair, just off the Lower High benefit from increased mechanisation St., also in 1836. and innovation. East St. was built in the early 1830's. It Gaslight, an evocative symbol of the was then called New Road, and was Victorian age, began to illuminate linked to a new turnpike road from Thame's streets at night from around Thame to Princes Risborough. Several 1851, the year of the Great Exhibition, new houses were built along East St. with the opening of Thame Gas Works and Park St., one seemingly by a (now demolished). By compulsory Act family of Quakers in 1833. of Parliament, Thame acquired its own Thame broke onto the national stage in County Police Station in 1854 and its 1840. The first letter sent with a Penny own County Court in 1861. Thame Black stamp was sent in 1840 to a Agricultural Society began in 1855, certain George Waterman in Thame. organising an annual ploughing match. Mr John Stone, a wealthy local man, This developed to become the Thame purchased and began to renovate the Show. To report on these and other

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 13 South Oxfordshire District Council events, the Thame Gazette started in was pulled down and the present Town 1856. Hall built, on the occasion of Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee. The town A number of local trade directories date roads were greatly improved in 1894 from this period, giving us a view of the and in 1897 the Victoria Cottage trades being carried out in Thame. Hospital was opened in East St., on the Combined with the population census occasion of Queen Victoria's Diamond returns for 1851 and 1861, these Jubilee. directories provide an insight into prosperous mid-nineteenth century This brief history has been edited by town life at Thame. The crowning glory Allan Hickman from information of these years of progress and contained on the website prosperity was without doubt the www.thamehistory.net constructed by coming of the railway to Thame in Phil Williams of Thame Historical 1858, and its extension to Oxford in Society Research Group. 1864.

The Late Victorian Period (1871 - 1901)

Despite the town's many new advantages, there were still open ditches to carry away waste from the High St., including from the town centre slaughter houses. A local Board of Health was formed in 1871 to address the sanitary conditions within the town. The first priority was the drainage and sewerage situation.

There had been several attempts to run a local fire service, but it was not until 1878 that Thame acquired a permanent fire station with its own fire engines. Thame's Fire Engine House opened in Park St. in 1878.

New building during this period included the current Lord Williams Grammar School on the Oxford Road built in 1879 to replace the original Grammar School in Church Row. During the 1880's many new terraced houses were built along Chinnor Road, Park St. and East St. The Market Hall in the middle of Thame High St. dated from 1684, and although it had been adorned with an external spiral staircase, was not considered fit for the purpose. In 1887 the old Market Hall

14 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Part 2 2 The Established Oxford Road

Character At the western boundary of the conservation area is Town Farm, once Introduction situated beyond the edge of the town. The previous section explains how the This side of the town still has a green historic centre of Thame, covered by and fairly rural feel, mainly due to the the conservation area, has developed valley of the Cuttle Brook, which over many centuries. Evidence of this provides an important open space and is to be seen everywhere in both the views into fields on either side of fine collection of historic buildings and Oxford Road. To the north west can be the layout of streets, buildings, private seen the Thame valley, whilst on the gardens and public open areas. This south east the meadows stretch off to history of development has also the east around the back of Southern invested the town with areas of subtly Road, the historic southern boundary differing character. The following of the medieval town. Although there is consideration of the established a good deal of modern building along character of the conservation area will the road between the brook and Town look at these areas in turn, partly to Farm much of it consists of bungalows render the descriptions of the set back from the road behind their conservation area into manageable gardens which limits the impact on the portions but also to respect the south-eastern side. Town Farmhouse is different characters to be found within it an early 17th century building with an and establish the attributes of each. earlier core and a timber-framed cross- Chief among these areas are those wing at the rear. It faces the road and around the Prebendal and St. Mary's is an important building in the street Church and on the High St. The former scene on the approach to Thame. is based on the earliest settlement at Behind the house the former farmyard Thame and the latter is essentially a contains two 18th century barns, both product of the 13th century planned clad in weatherboarding, which make town. The High St. itself has been sub- an attractive group with the house. divided for this study as there are Whilst the contribution to the landscape other, subtle changes in character made by the historic Town Farm between the formally planned central complex is an important one it has area and the more organically been adversely affected by the modern developed area between the High St. housing development adjacent to it. A proper and the church. Two of the little closer to the town are a pair of principal approaches to the town buildings that also make a contribution (Oxford Road and Aylesbury to the scene, Waterloo Cottage and Road/North St.) owe much of their Jemmetts Cottage. The former is built character to historic 'ribbon' of cob, known locally as wychert (which development into countryside and the means 'white mud'); and the latter inclusion of buildings and spaces features some attractive old stonework formerly in a rural location. They are in the gable end facing the road and therefore considered separately as are mature yew trees in the front garden. the predominantly 19th century areas The road climbs a low hill as it such as Park St. and East St. approaches the edge of the town. Stone walls line the south-eastern side

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 15 South Oxfordshire District Council and the tower of St. Mary's church and 56 High St.) which display the draws the eye to the brow of the hill. principal traditional building materials The thatched roof of 2 Priestend is found in the town: stone, brick, thatch, both an attractive feature and a visual tile and timber framing (see Fig. 1). reminder of the once rural nature of The buildings stand quite close this part of the conservation area. together where the road narrows as it Opposite 2 Priestend is Rycotewood turns into Lower High St. making an College, the former Thame Union almost gateway-like feeling around the workhouse. The lodges are distinctive western entrance to the town centre. but relatively modest and the main This is both an appropriate entrance to building is contained wholly within its the town and one that serves to own grounds. This, together with some emphasise the broad character of the attractive trees helps the college High St. by contrasting with it. contribute to, rather than dominant, the street scene. In this sense it is interesting to compare the college with the adjacent office building (Oxford House), also a large institutional building on the edge of the historic town. Even though the building is set back from the roadside (and so does not wholly impose itself on views of the distant church) it is a visually intrusive modern presence which an attractive tile roof and less successful stone boundary wall do little to enliven. Fig. 2. The approach to St. Mary’s Church

St. Mary's Church and The Prebendal

The area around St. Mary's Church is the ancient heart of the town. Priestend is a broad open road with the churchyard and allotments to one side and the walls of the Prebendal, with mature trees behind on the other. Although an open area this space feels remarkably isolated from the town, almost like a village in its own right. This is emphasised by the open space separating it from the town on all but the High St. side. The two key components to this area are the church and the Prebendal but it is the spaces Fig. 1. Stribblehills between these two, as much as the At the junction of Oxford Road with buildings themselves, which give Priestend and the western end of the Priestend its character. The Lower High St. are a fine group of Prebendal's grounds and St. Mary's buildings (the Old Crown, Stribblehills

16 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council face each other across the road and is the obvious dominant feature in the churchyard. Trees and walls in local churchyard and there are intriguing stone frame the scene and the views of it through the lime avenues as Prebendal's 1930s gatehouse built in well as a fuller view from the western stone blends into the established edge of the churchyard. The earliest scene. When entering Priestend low parts of the present building are early walls contribute to the open feel and 13th century in date, the tower, nave the trees are important in giving the and transepts being of this period. The space a definite, but soft boundary. The church was substantially altered in the allotments beside the churchyard not 14th century and the aisles, south only complement the open green space porch, the clerestorey windows in the character of the churchyard but also nave and the upper part of the tower all represent a visual reminder of the date from then. The magnificent traditional use of plots behind this part windows of the transepts were installed of the High St. as smallholdings (see around 1442 when the transepts were Fig. 3). Looking back out of Priestend remodelled and extended. The the multiple extensions behind 56 High churchyard has been extended to the St. present a rhythm of descending south and the headstones and rooflines whilst the Old Crown monuments reflect this. The earliest terminates the view with an attractive headstones, characterised by their jumble of roofs and walls in contrasting random distribution (including one of materials. 1630 and another of 1668) are near the church and along the main paths. Further into the churchyard extension the memorials are more uniform and regularly placed and on the south side of the church there are mostly simple headstones in rows. This makes for a very open feeling in the area between the lime avenue and Church Farm. In this space sits the 'Sexton's Hut', a former dovecote originally belonging to the neighbouring Church Farm (see Fig. 4). It is far enough away from the church to be a prominent feature in its Fig. 4. Former dovecote in St Mary’s Churchyard own right, Fig. 3. Allotments on Priestend especially when seen The churchyard is a very important from the east. open space. Avenues of pollarded limes planted for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee cross the churchyard on its north, south and east sides, dividing it into a series of smaller spaces, especially in summer when the trees' dense foliage forms a solid mass. In this way the churchyard maintains an open aspect. The church

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 17 South Oxfordshire District Council Although Priestend narrows as it turns pitch on its raised mound. The view into the old Long Crendon Road the eastwards from the church is of grass verges on either side maintain an Aylesbury Road, where, in the distance open feel until the tall trees in the the thatched roofs of Gable Cottage Prebendal's grounds and the front of and Godbegot make an attractive the Old Vicarage frame a view out into group with Regency Cottage. To the the low flood plain of the River Thame. south is the rear of properties on the This is an important view into and out lower part of High St. In essence these of the conservation area. Looking rear elevations contribute well to the across the river the willows and rough scene, presenting a generally attractive pasture are crucial to the setting of the jumble of roof forms and materials conservation area and unspoiled by the rising behind hedges and trees. The distant main road. Looking back from bulk of the Waitrose building in the Thame Bridge in the midst of the distance detracts from this. The meadows, the Old Vicarage and the eastern edge of the churchyard is tower of St. Mary's are prominently bounded by a stone retaining wall with displayed amongst the trees. Although purplish triangular coping bricks and a a defining part of this scene, the stone-on-edge path, which leads out Prebendal is hidden within its grounds, onto the cricket pitch through a mainly contributing to the wider scene wrought iron kissing gate. by maintaining an open green space Running between the stone walls of the which balances that around the church. Old Vicarage and St. Mary's The Old Vicarage is an attractive churchyard is a footpath that links house of 1842 with several mature Priestend with Aylesbury Road. At the specimen trees in its gardens, which church end there are broad grass are bounded by important stone walls verges beside the path and the view on the town side. towards the Aylesbury Road end is Fig. 5. View across cricket pitch partly closed by a 5-bar gate and the overhanging branches of trees in the Old Vicarage's garden, all of which produces a scene quite rural in character that contributes to the area's village feel. The footpath leads to the drive of Lashlake House and Jasmine Cottage, a pair of fine 18th century houses that form an attractive backdrop to the north side of the cricket pitch. Brick garden walls flank these houses and the pavement in front has stone kerbs. The northern edge of the cricket pitch is bordered by a 19th century wrought iron estate On the eastern side of the church and fence instead of a wall, giving the drive Prebendal area is Church Meadow. to the houses a very open aspect and This separates the town from the visually bringing the houses almost church, seen to good advantage across onto the cricket pitch. This helps impart the broad, open expanse of the cricket the feel of a village green to the area.

18 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council The entrance to the drive on Aylesbury latter is a pair of well-preserved Road is screened with trees giving a Victorian semi-detached houses (nos. secluded and rural look. 42 and 44). All these buildings are set back behind walls, opening the view Aylesbury Road slightly on the way out of town. Looking back in towards Thame the walls of Aylesbury Road runs from the Pearce's yard and no. 40 close the roundabout at the western end of North view as the road curves and trees on St. northwards out of the conservation the edge of the cricket pitch partly area. It is a very important component obscure the view. of the conservation area as a whole because it is a major historic route into Beside 32 Aylesbury Road ('Dolphins') the town, established when the Bishop is a path leading to an area of open of Lincoln diverted the road from Old ground. This forms a gap between the Thame to run through his newly housing on Yeates Close and the established market place. The road neighbouring modern development on curves along the edge of the cricket Brookside. More importantly for the pitch, expressing the ancient boundary setting of the conservation area, it is a of the Saxon enclosure around the remaining piece of open ground on church. what was once the rural fringe of the town. The entrance from Aylesbury Coming into the town from the north Road is a wide grass track closed by a and approaching the cricket pitch, the five-bar gate and flanked by trees northern end of the conservation area giving the impression of a field in Aylesbury Road still has a strong entrance. This small feature, along with sense of the former rural fringe of the the trees around it, makes a significant town The road is flanked by brick walls contribution to the setting of the on both sides giving a narrow and conservation area. enclosed feel but with views into and out of the conservation area. At this A good deal of the eastern side of point the works of H&C Pearce are a Aylesbury Road as it approaches the major feature. This woolstapler and town centre is dominated by modern rural supplies company is an important housing of non-traditional form. Further part of this corner of the conservation up the road to the south a series of area and their yard contains a mixture bungalows (nos. 2-10), the Waitrose of late 19th and early 20th century building and the police station buildings that are built of a uniform red dominate the scene. Although small, brick and share a plain, industrial the bungalows stand out because of character. Whilst views out of the their non-traditional materials and form. conservation area along Aylesbury Despite efforts to lessen the impact of Road are of an uninspiring mixture of the Waitrose building by cladding it in modern housing (with the exception of red brick and tile the sheer scale of the no. 41), street lamps and road signs, structure overwhelms its setting and the edge of the area is marked by an sadly dominates the view into town. attractive group of houses: Ash Tree The roundabout with its hard Cottage, (a 17th century timber-framed landscaping and plethora of signs and house extended in the 18th century), lights also detracts from the its neighbour no. 21 and the adjoining appearance of this part of the building in Pearce's yard. Opposite the conservation area.

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 19 South Oxfordshire District Council High St.: Lower (Western) Area

Historically the lower part of High St. was the original settlement of Old Thame prior to the addition of the planned extension of 12th century to the west. The variety of size and shape of building plots contrasts sharply with the uniformity of the long narrow burgage plots of New Thame. Its historic character is compromised in places by some inappropriate modern development. Fig. 6. The Cruke, High Street Looking out of town the view is closed by Stribblehills, a 17th century house of Although most buildings are two medieval origins much remodelled in storeys high there are several of one- the 1840s. Looking into Thame from and-a-half and three storeys, making this point the High St. slowly opens out the roofscape more varied and with the Victorian Town Hall visible in interesting. No. 69 has a jettied gable the distance. The dominant historic to the street, breaking with the overall character of the lower part of High St. pattern of building, and there are is of two storey houses, singly or in several spaces between the buildings. small groups, built right onto the This gives a character quite distinct pavement with no front gardens, from the parade of contiguous facades although there are several notable seen on the main part of High St. in the historic exceptions to this. This is much medieval planned town and also allows more prevalent at the western end views of some interesting features on where the road is narrow. A number of the side elevations of buildings. The early buildings follow this pattern, 16th century cruck frame of The Cruke including the Six Bells and The Cruke, is revealed in its small garden. The but this form of building directly onto spectacular chimneys of The Old Trout the pavement was respected late into are also prominent. More variation the 19th century, as seen in properties comes from the fine entrance gates to such as no. 59 which dates from this the Old Grammar School through period. The prevalence of this form at which the relocated Victorian the western end of the High St. makes bandstand can be seen. No. 79, a well- the incursion of modern buildings that preserved Victorian house, is set back go against this grain all the more from the street behind a low wall. Also noticeable. Victorian are the former Magistrates' Court (see Fig. 7) which has its own The lower part of High St. contains a space defined by a small frontage and fine collection of historic buildings, a pair of flanking driveways which lead diverse in form and type. Several to no. 78a and the Old Maltings . thatch and timber framed buildings can These buildings illustrate how the more be seen including no. 69, The Six gradual and less formally planned Bells, The Old Trout and The Cruke, development of the lower part of High whilst the street frontage of no. 78 (The St. has resulted in building behind the Brewer's House) is distinguished by the street. The 19th century Old Maltings fine chequered brickwork (see Fig. 6).

20 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council retains a good degree of its character broad, partly due to the wide pavement despite conversion to residential use on its eastern side. Despite some and the forecourt to the houses makes modern tarmac its predominant a quiet space off the main road. materials are Victorian brick and stone setts with stone kerbs which overall give an appearance of interestingly mixed textures. The western side of the street has a narrower pavement surfaced in tarmac. The buildings are either quite low or set back from the road, adding to this broad, open feel. The first half of the road, coming from High St., has two dramatically contrasting sides. The timber-framed side elevation of no. 69 High St. (the 16th century almshouses - see Fig. 8) turns the corner into Church Road but the Old Grammar School (now offices) Fig. 7. The former Magistrates Court occupies most of the eastern side of the street. Behind low stone walls, this The garden plots behind the lower part 16th century building is set back of High St. have been much affected behind a small lawn with mature trees by modern development. Several of the making an important contribution to the older buildings have land to the rear scene. The modern office extension is reminiscent of the burgage plots seen set back behind and to the side of the in the town centre (for example no. 50, old school. The western side of Church a small late 17th century house Road is in strong contrast. The almost squeezed into a narrow plot). Others perfectly preserved façade of a 19th had larger pieces of ground to go with century terrace (nos. 1-6) is set straight the larger street frontages, like The Old onto the pavement. In some ways Trout (itself the product of several these buildings seem at odds with the phases of 16th and 17th century rest of the area and are perhaps more building). In many cases, however, akin to those seen on Victorian East St. these grounds have long been taken The warm orange-red brick and by other properties, including the large Victorian house, Elm Trees.

Towards the western end of Lower High St. is the entrance to Church Road. In the same way that Priestend connects the Prebendal area to High St. so Church Road provides a link to St. Mary's Church. This street contains a remarkable variety of buildings and spaces in its short length. The view from High St. reveals an extremely attractive street with St. Mary's tower rising above the trees of the churchyard. The road appears quite Fig. 8. The Almshouses

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 21 South Oxfordshire District Council uniform fenestration make a significant Brook Lane leaves the High St. beside contribution to this most attractive The Six Bells and forms part of the street and demonstrate well how the boundary of the conservation area slow growth of Thame's historic centre before becoming a path to the Cuttle has produced a mixed, yet perfectly Brook. Looking into the lane from the integrated character. High St. the trees at the rear of The Six Bells car park close the view and the Between the churchyard and the lane turns out of sight. The road is terrace, the character of Church Road narrow and winding as it follows the is distinctly different. The former rear boundaries of houses on High St. agricultural buildings of Church Farm Two sections of old wall survive behind are the dominant historic features. the houses as well as the stone and Their arrangement around the former timber outbuilding in the garden of farmyard opens out the scene no.41. Brook Lane provides a effectively to make it blend pleasingly fascinating view of the jumble of tile, with the churchyard. On the western slate and thatch roofs behind the side of the road stands the Tithe Barn. houses of High St. This is one of the major historic buildings in the town. It has a well- The junction of High St. with Southern preserved timber frame and Road and Bell Lane is one of the herringbone brickwork infill and dates busiest parts of the town in terms of from the 16th century. The current road traffic. However, the width of the business use has not compromised its High St. and its junction with Bell Lane contribution to the streetscape. Church accommodate the roundabout and the Farm is on the eastern side where the area is therefore not wholly blighted by tiled roofs rise above the patchwork traffic. A fine group of buildings stone boundary wall. The only alien addresses this broad, open space. In element in Church Lane is the pair of the foreground of the view into High St. 1930s semi-detached houses, nos. 7 is no.85. The building stands at the and 8, which, despite the large amount head of the closely packed and rigidly of herringbone brickwork inspired by ordered row of facades that front one the Tithe Barn, do not fit well with side of High St. and Buttermarket and, either terrace or barns. despite its relatively small scale, it is a

Fig. 9. Church Road major landmark in the street scene. On the north side of Bell Lane are nos. 80- 83, a fine group of buildings with dates that span from the 16th to 19th centuries. No. 83 (Croft Cottage) is a timber and brick house of the 17th century and whilst no. 80 presents an early 18th century façade to the street it has a rear section that is probably earlier. The more ordered facades of nos. 81 and 82 complete the group. The entrance to Southern Road is the narrowest of the four exits from the roundabout and is flanked by two, suitably modest, one-and-a-half storey

22 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council buildings, The Malthouse and The has been altered and extended on Rising Sun. The Malthouse, dating more than one occasion. Corner Close from the 18th century, may indeed Cottage sits in an extremely important have started life as a maltings and position, being visible across the turns the corner with its roughly Aylesbury Road roundabout and textured rubble stone walls. The Rising marking the entrance to Bell Lane. This Sun has a jettied rear wing onto is another fine survival of timber- Southern Road and a 19th century framed building, still with a thatched former off licence shopfront to the left roof, on the fringe of the historic town on the High St. side. As well as centre. In this case it is a modest marking the entrance to Southern house originating in the early 17th Road, the Rising Sun also forms, with century and extended later in that nos. 23-25, an attractive and century. With a stone wall in front and interesting group of buildings on the the trees bounding the cricket pitch southern side of High St. behind, it is an important landmark on the way into and out of the town Bell Lane curves gently downhill from centre. Bell Close is populated by High St. to join Aylesbury Road and the modern detached houses of various north end of North St. Its historic styles. These are mostly set in fairly character is that of unplanned building generous gardens which help the edge between the rear of garden plots of the town blend softly with the behind the houses of High St. and the openness of the cricket pitch. The edge of the countryside surrounding properties on the north side of the Thame prior to the 20th century. Close are particularly important in Reflecting this, the lower part of Bell establishing the character of the Lane is still notable for relatively low- boundary between these two areas. density development and significant numbers of trees. Development is High St. (Main Area) irregular and spaces between the buildings are vital to its character. At The dominant character of High St. is the top of the lane building is denser, its broad, open aspect with the facades typified by the rear elevations of nos. of buildings forming an unbroken front 85-90 High St. which form quite a uniformly on both sides. The buildings prominent feature at the top of Bell are built right onto the pavement Lane. Lower down the lane is no.12 without front gardens, boundary walls, Bell Lane, an early 17th century, porches or steps and are tightly packed timber-framed, thatched house with a together, reflecting the narrow medieval cross-wing partly built in rubblestone. burgage plots on which they stand. The Not only is this an extremely attractive only spaces between the buildings are property but the gardens (although the occasional passageways which much reduced by the construction of give access to the land behind but as car parking space in the Waitrose these are mostly covered by the upper complex) are important in maintaining storeys of the buildings and closed by the green feel and low-density of solid gates they do not significantly building on the lane. On the west side break the continuous line of building. of the lane stands no. 7; a substantial This character continues along house with origins in the early 17th Cornmarket and Upper High St. and is century, or possibly earlier. The house especially prevalent on the southern

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 23 South Oxfordshire District Council side where views from either end of the parapets, gables and dormers, town centre reveal a continuous sweep rendered façades and decorative of closely packed buildings only broken brickwork. The dominant material seen by the entrances to Rooks Lane and in these facades is the local red brick, Nelson St. Although there is a variety commonly combined with the grey of building types on High St., a flared headers to make a pattern (as at common form is the classically inspired no. 109) or to contrast decoratively with façade, often applied to earlier red brick, as at no. 91. Render is also buildings, such as no. 93, The Book used as a surface finish, usually House, and mainly dating from the 18th painted white or a light pastel shade. and early 19th centuries. These often At its western end the main part of have parapets to hide their roofs. High St. starts with a group of buildings These buildings present a formal face less ordered than those seen to the street, imparting even more elsewhere in the street. No. 22, regularity to the streetscape. Most of Lancastrian Cottage, is a 16th century High St.'s 18th and 19th century timber framed house with a partially houses have been converted to surviving cruck frame visible in the commercial use on the ground floor gable end. It has a small garden on although some, such as nos. 91 and High St. bounded by a brick wall. As a 92, remain relatively unaltered result of this the building is in some externally. Even with the variations in ways at odds with the regularity of the shop design there is still a strong rest of the street but makes a delightful continuity among groups of such visual link with the more relaxed buildings. A good example of this can planning of the lower part of High St., be seen in nos. 104-109, where all as well as helping to open out date from the early 19th century except gradually views into main High St. no. 107, mid 18th century and no. 106 area. Starbank House is a 19th century with its striking Venetian windows, re-fronted Georgian town house which which is early 18th century. There are also deviates slightly from High St.'s many other buildings, such as the other frontages, playing a similar role numerous smaller houses of 17th and to Lancastrian Cottage in allowing the 18th century date, that are less opening out of views along the street. It imposing than the Georgian houses is significant too in views to the west and display attractive sweeps of red tile because, as it is set forward of the roof. Others, both early vernacular principal building line, it presents a buildings and later Victorian ones, have large portion of its end wall to the prominent gables to the street, giving a street, whilst the buildings beyond more varied rhythm to the roofscape. close this view. Of particular interest at Although there is almost as much this point is no. 24 High St., an variety of building type in this part of attractive roughcast timber-framed High St. as at its lower end, the building containing a passage with an formality of planning imposed by the arched timber entrance. This leads to a burgage plots makes the overall row of stone cottages built on the appearance much more regular. This is burgage plot in the 19th century. Today not to say the area is bland and this is a quiet space away from the uninteresting. Rather, views along High busy High St. St. from any direction show a fascinating mixture of roofs and

24 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council On the south side of High St. are nos. building and a leaded casement 16, 17 and 18 which date from the 19th window can be seen, as well as the century and 15a which has a fine mid- brick boundary walls of the burgage 18th century façade. Together this plots flanking it. The centre of the car group of three-storey structures forms park is occupied by a majestic willow quite an imposing group. They are tree and behind this can be glimpsed given an added sense of group the thatched roof of no.12 Bell Lane. cohesion by the space in front of the No. 98 is flanked on one side by a Masonic Hall visually separating them Victorian property bristling with gabled from the rest of the High St. buildings. bay windows and on the other by a To the rear of 15a three burgage plots severely altered house, no. 100. The have been combined and a part given latter stands next to no. 100a, a to the modern Garden House. Access modern building which, whilst not through some Victorian gates leads to wholly out of keeping with the area in a car park with mature trees and the terms of scale, it is let down by its ill- house's garden beyond which make matching brick laid in dull stretcher this quiet, leafy spot. From here the bond and poorly proportioned rear of the Masonic Hall can be seen aluminium framed windows. Modern with its blocked chapel-like windows. buildings also appear on the south side Some rubble stone walling in the side of the High St. where the Co-op store of 16a is also visible, perhaps occupies several units between nos. 5 suggesting the rear may be older than and 9. The central part (the right hand the front of the building, and the stone part of the supermarket) is fairly well setts beneath the drive from the street designed in terms of scale and form can also be seen. Nos. 9 -13 High St. with correctly proportioned windows. are of a very different character but The façade as a whole has references form a similarly coherent group. These to buildings in the rest of the street but are smaller buildings all converted to the tall window and panel arrangement shops on the ground floor and and the jettied bay are perhaps a little separated from the modern shops to too prominent and draw unnecessary the east by the alleyway which leads to attention to the building. the car parks behind. The side elevation of 9 shows its early timber- The former Post Office, on the northern frame. The group identity of these side of High St., is quite a substantial buildings is underlined by similarities in building, dating from the 17th century exterior colour scheme and shop front but with an 18th century façade that is detailing that appear in more than one almost forbidding in appearance with property and combine to form a its simple decoration and heavy pleasing effect. window surrounds. Many extensions have been added to the rear; most On the northern side of High St. there relating to the post office phase of the is perhaps less of the continuity, both in building's life, but those immediately style and date. No. 98 is a 17th century behind the frontage building are also of building with an 18th century front and some interest. The yard behind the features a low opening on the left of post office is fronted by some attractive the front elevation that leads to the iron gates and in the yard itself office's car park. From the car park, the boundary walls of the flanking burgage timber framing in the rear wing of the plots can be seen.

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 25 South Oxfordshire District Council and the distinctive purpose built Lloyd's Bank on Cornmarket are both typical of this period (see Fig. 11). Relatively dense ornamentation is crammed onto the small frontages in a fashion quite distinct from the more restrained decoration of Georgian cornices and patterned brickwork seen elsewhere. However, these Victorian buildings commonly use traditional materials and are neither too numerous nor out of scale with the rest of the street to detract from it and in fact make a valuable contribution to the scene.

Fig. 10. The Town Hall

The Town Hall is a major feature in the centre of High St (see Fig. 10). Not only is it prominent in views from the west but it largely obscures the buildings between Cornmarket and Buttermarket when seen from this end of the town. Built in 1888 to replace an earlier town hall it commands views of the entrance to the centre of the town Fig. 11. Lloyds Bank and all the activity in this area. The Buttermarket and Cornmarket setting is ideal for such a grand and Cornmarket and Buttermarket, as ornate structure, with other buildings areas distinct from the rest of High St., being lower than the hall and set well owe their existence to the away from it. The town hall benefits encroachment of building into the from an attractive paving which, medieval planned market place that through its use of York stone and separates them. The group of buildings granite setts enhances this part of the between the two streets is a fascinating town. Granite setts also survive in one and the area has a character very some of the access roads to burgage much its own. The view from the Town plots through passages in High St. Hall is dominated by the impressive properties (such as at no. 10 High St., four-storey no. 20a Buttermarket. A where cast iron drainage grates also handsome shop front wraps around the survive). ground floor and a large bay window The Victorian era contributed several and heavy cornice capped with tile other buildings to the High St. scene. dominate the upper floors. The They are often dramatically different alleyway separating the building from from the dominant pattern of earlier no. 1 Cornmarket is too narrow for use vernacular buildings and 18th and early by the public, and is indicative of the 19th century facades. No. 2 High St.

26 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council way the middle area of Buttermarket of The Shambles there is also a view and Cornmarket developed by of The Spread Eagle Hotel and the encroaching onto High St. The original Georgian facades of houses on the buildings here were temporary south side of Cornmarket. structures, some of which later Views along Buttermarket show a developed into permanent buildings. narrow street that has an intimate and This alley, The Shambles and Pump busy feel. The slight curve of the road Lane illustrate this development and in such a narrow space makes the show these sites as distinct entities, buildings seem more crowded and the unlike the contiguous building of the shop fronts pressed together, even burgage plots. No. 1 Cornmarket though those on the north side still presents an attractive shop front to the adhere to the planned layout of the Town Hall but behind this the jettied medieval town. This side of the street side of an earlier and smaller building has a pleasantly 'jumbled' feel in which can be seen whilst on the other side a projecting shop fronts, jettied upper single storey extension has storeys and hanging shop signs jostle encroached into the alley. The divisions for space in the narrow street. The between some of these encroachment western end of Buttermarket is marked plots are very narrow and that between by no.1 which has a pair of jettied nos. 1 and 2 Cornmarket has been gables above a rather plain, modern closed by infill, making it almost shop front. Although the whole façade impossible to distinguish where one is a little austere it has a strong ends and the other begins. This mix of presence in the street. The side of no. chaotic development and independent 20a, opposite, is also quite plain and building plots gives the area between marred by the small ground floor Cornmarket and Buttermarket much of windows. More interesting are nos. 3- its charm and character and 11 Buttermarket, the group which forms distinguishes it from High St. There are most of the northern side of the street. several important views into the These are mainly quite low 2 storey cluttered interior of this area. buildings with 18th or 19th century The Shambles is in fact a much more fronts on older houses and present a interesting area than the view in from string of consistently pleasing Buttermarket might at first suggest. It is traditional shop fronts with sash or formed by a dramatically contrasting casement windows at first floor level mixture of buildings. The rear of 19 and tiled roofs above. Prominent Buttermarket presents the front façade among this group is the former of a pleasant early 19th century town Saracen's Head, now offices, that has house (although one covered by its origins in the late medieval period pebble-dashing). Facing this is the rear and saw some alteration in the of the National Westminster Bank 17th,19th and 20th centuries. The tall which, although plainer than its fanciful gabled roof is a significant part of the front, has a plentiful amount of warm street scene but perhaps the most red brick. The other sides of The interesting aspect of the building is the Shambles are formed by the far more timber framing visible in the side wall. rugged buildings at the rear of 20 and This can be seen from the side 20a Buttermarket, 3 Pump Lane and passage to the rear of the property and 1A Cornmarket. From the southern end once formed the screens passage of

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 27 South Oxfordshire District Council the medieval building. This is also one Cornmarket has similar origins to of the few places from which the Buttermarket in that one side (the burgage plots on the north side of south) is formed by the facades of Buttermarket can be seen. buildings on the regular plots of the medieval planned town whilst opposite The south side of Buttermarket very is the more irregular development of much complements the north side with the infilled middle row of buildings. many fine buildings lining the street, Perhaps the real landmark buildings of although the alleyways through to Cornmarket are the two public houses Cornmarket perforate the line of opposite each other. The Spread facades and subtly alter the feel of this Eagle, once the home of the celebrated side of the street. Nos. 14 and 15, near landlord and diarist John Fothergill the eastern end, have their origins in (1876-1957), originated as a private the 17th century but the first floor bay house in 1765 (on medieval burgage windows and ornamental bargeboards plots) and became an inn only in 1852 that are prominent features of the twin (see Fig. 12). The regularity of its gables are Victorian. This building is domestic Georgian façade is in tune flanked by Victorian mock timber with the formality of the High St. but in framed buildings which, whilst not striking contrast to the Birdcage Public unattractive in themselves alter the House across the road (see Fig. 13). mood of this end of Buttermarket. The Dating from the 15th century this is one middle of the south side of the street is of the most interesting buildings in the occupied by an interesting group of conservation area. There was a buildings, nos. 17-19. The front of no. building on this plot in the 13th century 19 displays early 19th century windows and fabric from this date can be found and brickwork which are quite a in the cellar which was used as a gaol. contrast to the rear elevation facing into The present Birdcage Public House The Shambles. Nos. 17 and 18 are also housed prisoners during the both of 17th century date but present later facades to Buttermarket.

Fig. 12. The Spreadeagle Hotel Fig. 13. The Birdcage Public House

28 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Napoleonic Wars. Standing on the changes and now houses the tourist corner of Cornmarket and the entrance information centre among other uses. It to the Shambles the building displays is highly prominent in views of Upper some excellent jettied timber framing High St. from the Park St. end where and a massive corner post is visible by the buildings at the end of Cornmarket the side entrance. The other buildings and Buttermarket form a backdrop to on this side of Cornmarket are not of the Market Hall (see Fig. 14). Chief such great antiquity but all occupy plots among this group is the 'mock-Tudor' that originated from gradual infill and pub, a striking building executed with consequently form an irregular and some attention to detail. When looking characterful group. Whilst nos. 2 and along Upper High St. from the market 2a Cornmarket are of 17th century place the influence of the town's original, they display many Victorian medieval planning is again evident in details externally. the orderly facades of buildings flanking the open space. Whilst regular Most of the buildings on the southern and classically designed brick facades side of Cornmarket present 18th of the 18th and early 19th centuries century facades to the street, including dominate the streetscape (especially the Black Horse Hotel, another inn that on the north side) there are also is a major feature of the street and nos. occasional breaks formed by older or 18 and 19. No. 12 also has an 18th later properties. century façade and a passageway to the side. Behind the gates is a view of the series of extensions stretching back from the main building and a small outbuilding (perhaps a former stable) situated in the burgage plot, the stone and brick walls of which flank the garden. Quite at odds with the rest of Cornmarket, but a major feature of it, is the Lloyds TSB Bank.

Upper High St. and Market Place

Upper High St. shares the broad open character of the main High St. area to the west, narrowing only at its eastern Fig. 14. The Market Hall end at the junction with Park St. and The north side of Upper High St. is East St. The western part of Upper marked at its western end by a series High St. is dominated by the market of buildings (nos. 2-7) that are place, an open area subtly separated relatively low, 2-storey structures of from the main road on its southern side predominantly 18th century date, by a visually low-key area of pavement together presenting an attractive sweep planted with a row of plane trees. At of tiled roof to the market place. No. 1 the western end of the market place Upper High St. marks the turning into the Market House is a major feature. It North St. in an understated way. This is a modest building that is said to three-storied, 18th-century building have originated as a chapel in the mid forms one half of an attractive pair with 18th century but has undergone many

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 29 South Oxfordshire District Council the grander Victorian building opposite the bar. The passageway also provides (12 Buttermarket). Being taller than access to the modern shopping area of their neighbouring buildings both are Swan Walk and a small residential cul- landmarks. Whilst not being de-sac behind. This housing is built overbearing they lead the viewer's eye upon part of the burgage plots behind around the corner into North St. Nos. Upper High St. Other areas of burgage 2-7 Upper High St. form an attractive plot survive behind nos. 7 and 8 Upper group with their traditional shop fronts. High St. as well as no. 11, which can An interesting detail is to be seen in be seen from Swan Walk. The full the side entrance to no. 4 where heavy length of the rear burgage plot timber beams supporting the building boundary wall can also be seen at this above are exposed. point.

No.13 Upper High St. is an extremely well preserved early 18th century townhouse with original windows and door, which is one of the few not having had a shop inserted on the ground floor. No.16, a few doors along, also has an immaculately preserved 18th century frontage (placed on an earlier building) and is notable for a fine Doric pilaster door case. The style of door at 16 is echoed in the large entrance gate set in no.16a. A more modest doorway can be seen at 11 where the simple rusticated stucco is an attractive part of the shop front. No.15 is another 18th century building Fig. 15. The Swan Hotel with a striking oriel window on the first floor. Although quite different in character to nos. 2-7, nos. 8-13 share many features in common that make them a coherent group. Their tall brick facades and tiled roof, whilst varied, are broadly similar. The Swan Hotel and no.13 are perhaps the most prominent buildings in this group (see Fig. 15). The 18th century front of the Swan features a tall and relatively narrow central part that is balanced by the flanking buildings whilst at the centre the passageway allows access into the bar. The timber framing in the side walls of the Swan, Fig. 16. 14 Upper High Street which suggests its earlier origins, can be seen from inside the passageway A remarkable survival in this part of the with sash windows giving views into High St. is no.14 (see Fig. 16). A

30 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council small highly attractive building with side of the street (nos. 36, 37 and 38) interesting historic details, it is actually are also pleasant examples of the quite at odds with the surrounding typical architecture of the period but buildings as it is both in the vernacular their projecting bay windows intrude style of the area (rather than the into the street and are somewhat at classically-inspired formality of the odds with its overall character. Georgian and later town house) and is set back from the street. The gable end of this 17th century house, prominent in views along the street, displays a queen post roof truss whilst there is 18th century brickwork facing the street. It stands out from the general pattern of building in the street and this is emphasised by the open area at its western side. This is the entrance to Belmont Mews, a modern development on the burgage plots of nos. 12-14 Upper High St., which is flanked by old boundary walls and incorporates some 19th century buildings.

From Rooks Lane to the War Memorial Gardens the southern side of Upper High St. contains a varied collection of buildings. The two Victorian churches have their frontages set back from the pavement and do not follow the formal arrangement of buildings elsewhere in Fig. 17. The Old Nag’s Head the street. The former Methodist Chapel of 1876 (no.43) has a plain Chief among the early buildings on the gabled façade with three lancet south side of Upper High St. are The windows dominated by the large Old Nag's Head, no. 42 and nos. 34 entrance porch with elaborate wrought and 35. The Old Nags Head, dating iron hinges on the heavy timber door. from the 16th century, has a three The church is now in commercial use jettied gable announcing its high status but retains its historic character. A more (see Fig. 17). These are a prominent ornate facade is presented to the street feature of the street scene and the fine by United Reformed Church (formerly a example of close-studded timber Congregational chapel built in 1871 to framing displayed on the western side designs by WF Poulton of Reading). Its contrasts with the solid Victorian roughly dressed stone façade is set stonework of the chapel adjacent. back from the street and raised above No.42 is a substantial building with its it at the top of a flight of stone steps. origins in the 17th century. The front is Two large windows with cusped tracery adorned with an ornate five-pointed are surmounted by a rose window and arched doorway at the entrance to a the whole topped with a large finial. passageway, which was added in the Other Victorian buildings on the south Victorian era. In this passageway

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 31 South Oxfordshire District Council carved corbels in the shape of lions century shop front. After a series of can be seen along with a timber Victorian buildings (a group which pointed arch. To the rear of no. 42 a makes a positive contribution to the courtyard has been created by new scene) is no. 26, a late 18th century offices built on the burgage plot. The house with several phases of extension stone side wall of the rear wing of the to the rear. The access to St. Andrew's adjacent pub forms one side of this Court business area allows views of yard against which an old water pump the quite spectacular boundary wall, stands. Several phases of building are curving and dropping in height with a immediately evident in the front of nos. series of ramps before continuing as a 34 and 35. Originating as a 16th complete burgage plot boundary wall century house and extended in the ending on Wellington St. The view from 17th century, the most eye-catching St. Andrew's Court shows a series of features today are the closely-framed well-preserved burgage plots behind timberwork of the gable of no.34 and nos. 15-26 Upper High St., many of the large passage entrance to its left. which are still in use as private Above the latter is an element of gardens. The view across them is, in jettying and through the passage, from summer, a green and leafy one the car park behind, the roof of the benefiting from a variety of mature coach house, stables and barn of The trees. A series of descending roof lines Elms can be glimpsed. at the rear of no. 27 Upper High St. can also be seen from St. Andrew's The eastern end of Upper High St. has Court. These terminate in a large oriel a distinctly different character from the window that no doubt once gave views rest of the street. The southern side of over the burgage plot gardens but now the road is dominated by the well- looks mainly on to car parks and tended and quietly dignified War offices. Memorial gardens. Behind the stone wall at the back of the gardens trees The very eastern end of Upper High St. growing in the grounds of The Elms is mainly occupied by Victorian form a soft green backdrop and a buildings (nos. 27 and 27a making an suitably peaceful setting for the imposing pair amongst them) but is memorial. The gardens are fronted by most notable for 30, an elegantly a low stone wall facing the street with proportioned, early 19th century house understated but elegant iron gates. that probably once stood among gardens on the fringe of the town. Whilst the steady narrowing of the road Other examples of this type of towards the junction with Park St. is development can be seen on Park St. softened by the trees setback across and East St., suggesting that this end the road, the buildings on the north of Upper High St., whilst abutting the side follow the same form as planned medieval town, developed in elsewhere on High St. (they are the same piecemeal way as the straight onto the pavement without fringes. Behind no. 30 is a gardens). There is a mixture of weatherboarded granary on 10 staddle buildings on this side. Nos. 18-20 have stones and a rubble stone outbuilding. 18th century facades though no. 18 has earlier origins which are clearly Nelson St. joins Upper High St. beside visible in the large ornate chimney no.34 on the south side and links it to rising from the roof above the late 19th Southern Road. Nelson St. is an

32 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council Edwardian street developed to fill the rear of High St. has been developed for gaps between the old planned town modern housing including the Mitchell and the grounds of The Elms and is a Close development. As Southern Road good example of its kind. The southern continues eastwards, however, its half of the street is lined with mid and 'outer' side, (the land away from the late 19th century houses with well- town centre) is still open. The preserved and well-maintained recreation ground and school playing frontages. Towards the Upper High St. fields, running from Spring Path to end the street is more varied with Moreton Lane, are hugely important in some modern building and a 1937 fire preserving the essence of a rural fringe station which are a little at odds with to the town bounded by Southern the overall Victorian feel. The view into Road. The playing fields stretch to the Upper High St. is closed by no. 13 and Cuttle Brook and form a continuous the trees in the market place car park. green area with the fields flanking the brook beside the Oxford Road. Southern Road

The present Southern Road follows the line of a service road or back lane originally laid out as part of the medieval planned town to provide rear access to the burgage plots on the southern side of the High St., Cornmarket and Upper High St. It bordered open fields and defined the extent of the town and continued to do so for many centuries. Today it marks the extent of the conservation area on the southern side of the town centre and continues to provide access to the land behind High St. There is, however, little historic building on the road, only an occasional outbuilding built at the rear of the burgage plots. The Fig. 18. Southern Road exception to this is a row of cottages at The burgage plots between Southern the western end of the road. These are Road and High St. have, inevitably on the eastern side of Southern Road seen a great deal of change but the and probably exploited small pockets of degree to which such an ancient land on the fringe of the town. These landscape has survived is remarkable. continue from the rear of the Rising Southern Road has provided modern Sun, at the corner of High St. and developers with a ready access route Southern Road, and include no.5, a to the rear of the burgage plots and the timber framed building, and a series of inside of the road is now lined with 18th century houses all of which houses from opposite Mitchell Close to present well-preserved facades to the Dorchester Place. In many instances, street and continue the style of building however, this development merely seen in the lower part of High St. rings a core of surviving burgage plots. Opposite these houses the land to the An investigation of the modern

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 33 South Oxfordshire District Council development at the aptly named modern low-density development is Burgage Place reveals several historic found on land behind buildings on High walls still marking the plots behind nos. St. but there are substantial portions of 18-21 High St. Whilst the Lincoln Place burgage plot surviving behind the and Dorchester Place developments bungalow to the rear of the Black and the Co-op supermarket car park Horse's car park which can be seen have encroached significantly into the from Rooks Lane. Rooks Lane itself historic landscape behind High St., does not have a strong historic other areas are remarkably intact. The character due to the amount of new Woolworth's car park, although an development. Some of the buildings amalgamation of more than one plot, are Victorian (nos. 51 and 53) but the retains some old walls but most street's main contribution to the impressive is the plot behind the conservation area is to offer views on western part of the Spread Eagle. This to the rear of the High St. has long been used as a vehicular drive flanked by trees and an attractive North St. stone and brick wall running the full North St. runs on the north side of the length of one side. This plot is very town centre between Buttermarket and narrow and this may be what has Aylesbury Road. Although it connects saved it from development. The view with Bell Lane and so forms a loop down the plot reveals a jumble of roofs around the whole High St. area it does behind the High St., that of the Spread not possess the same intimate Eagle itself being particularly connection with the burgage plots as interesting. The Spread Eagle's car Southern Road. The plots to the north park also retains a good length of wall side of High St. were much shorter as well as the attractive Victorian Eagle when they were originally laid out and, Cottage built on the end of the unusually, had no back lane. It has combined burgage plots facing onto been suggested that this is because Southern Road. the land adjoining to the north was Rooks Lane marks the return of carved out of a possible Anglo-Saxon Southern Road to High St. and some oval religious enclosure and its religious association inhibited total destruction of the site . It is also important to note that both North St. and Bell Lane are major routes to and from Thame because they connect with Aylesbury Road. The kind of heavy traffic seen on both roads is unknown on Southern Road and has also brought pressures to bear on the historic character of the streets.

Between the cattle market and the roundabout at the end of Aylesbury Road, North St. follows a sharply curving course as it skirts the outer edge of the enclosure which predates Fig. 19. The burgage plot to the rear of the Spreadeagle the medieval town. Although the area

34 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council between the road and the town centre has been dramatically affected by the Waitrose and police station developments and there is a good deal of modern housing on the other side (the Lashlake Road area) the character of the road is quite well preserved. Despite the constant traffic on this relatively narrow road the impression of low-density development, predominantly characterised by small cottages on the margin between town and country, survives. A hedge and stone wall screens the Waitrose car park quite effectively for much of its Fig. 20. The Bishops Palace length. The hedge fronting no. 39 and by the Bishop of Lincoln who used it as the trees opposite play an important a temporary residence when touring role where the road bends. A pair of his diocese. It incorporates a 16th modern garages with a large area of century wing with a cruck frame. The hard standing do little to contribute to house closes the view into Moorend the street scene at this point and the Lane, its weathered and textured tile entrance to Lashlake Road is very wide roof catching the eye. It also retains with broad expanses of tarmac some sense of separation from the pavement flanking it. Unfortunately this buildings around it due to its gardens emphasises the intrusive nature of the and the drive to Tripps Cottage. This Lashlake Road development. Looking cottage, also originating in the 16th towards Aylesbury Road, Corner Close century, can be seen from Moorend Cottage and the cricket pitch form a Lane behind the later houses, and soft and attractive termination to the presents its rear elevation to Lashlake view but the modern development and Road. The 19th century cottages that roundabout are a little too overbearing cluster around the junction of Moorend and harsh. Lane and Lashlake Road are an

The most interesting buildings on the interesting group, mixing brick and lower part of North St. are the two early stone construction. No. 45 North St. ones, Tripps Cottage and the Bishops has an unusual road sign on a stone Palace and the group of 19th century panel to the front that is indicative of cottages around them (see Fig.20). the development of the road into a This group, centred on Moorend Lane, major route. The blocked door and represents both early building beyond window also visible at the front result the edge of the town and later from the building's conversion from a development along a major route into public house. Nos. 41-45 North St. are it. Moorend Lane probably originated stone and rendered brick cottages and as a route out into the country with the nos. 9-10 and 3-6 Moorend Lane are mainly 17th century Bishop's Palace 19th century terraced houses similar to built in what were then open fields. those seen elsewhere on the fringes of This is a beautifully preserved timber Thame (for example in East St. and framed building that was originally built Nelson St.). Slate predominates on the roofs of this group but some traditional

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 35 South Oxfordshire District Council clay tile can be seen on nos. 9-10 small 19th century houses. The houses Moorend Lane. comprising this terrace range from small 1½-storey buildings (reminiscent When seen from the junction with of earlier houses on High St.) to more Buttermarket, North St. rapidly assumes decorative late Victorian houses with a distinctly different character from that polychromatic brickwork and of High St. The raised pavement on bargeboards (nos. 21-23). Overall either side of the road leaves the these houses are well preserved and buildings set above the street and this make a strong contribution to the is particularly noticeable on the western streetscape. The top of North St. is side giving the mostly small buildings a notable for The Beeches (no.5a) set greater prominence. The road is quite behind a high stone wall capped in tile. wide and becomes broader as it This 18th century house is set back approaches the junction with Wellington from the road and marks an important St. Looking up the road, the Market visual break between the properties on Square pub is a prominent feature with Buttermarket and the later terraced the buildings at the corners of Upper houses on North St. On the western High St. and Buttermarket flanking it. side of the street is a narrow road Looking away from High St., the road between nos. 21 and 23. This leads to widens and curves away to the left with an area at the rear of Buttermarket the trees on the grass verge in front of where The Old Candle Factory (a the cattle market softening the view. Victorian building constructed on the Two unremarkable buildings made burgage plot) stands. From here prominent by distinctive colour several boundary walls can be seen schemes draw attention away from the defining substantial areas of surviving more subtle tones of the stone cottage burgage plots. at the corner of Moorend Lane that closes the view in the distance. Whilst the cattle market features large utilitarian modern sheds it is also a The two sides of the southern part of large open area that does not dominate North St. are subtly different. Building the edge of the conservation area as it on the sides and ends of burgage plots is set back behind a grass verge and on the Upper High St. side has mostly low wall. This provides something of a occurred at an early date and many of softening effect on the roadside. In the the small houses from Upper High St. view up North St. from Moorend Lane to Wellington St. have 17th or early 39 (The Blue Man) is prominent. 18th century origins. Particularly Although this has been altered it is an notable among these is the central interesting house that may have group, nos. 53-60, most of which date originated in the late 17th or early 18th from the 17th century. Patterned centuries. It has two large chimneys brickwork and rendered facades prominent in views both on the street dominate, whilst an attractive rhythm and from the supermarket car park formed by the falling slope of roofs, behind. Between 39 and Friday Court windows and shopfronts as the terrace are a series of Victorian terraced follows the slope gives an interesting houses. In form, scale and position and pleasingly coherent look to the they are in keeping with the street and group. contribute to its appearance. Most of The western side of North St. is them have been substantially altered notable for an almost unbroken line of

36 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council and nos. 34 - 37 with their stone High St. Beyond the Cross Keys, Park mullioned windows are perhaps the St. is narrow in comparison to Upper most characterful. High St., with many of its houses built right on to the pavement and although Park St. and East St. they are quite low, principally two storeys, the feeling is a close and In contrast to High St., the Park St. and contained one. East St. portions of the conservation area are predominantly 19th century in Before the mid-19th century Park St. date and distinctly different in was very much at the rural fringe of the character. The visual character of Park town and some of the early buildings St. is very different from that of Upper seen today were built in formerly open High St. At its eastern end Upper High ground. Perhaps the most notable of St. is still very much an open, these are nos. 34 and 35 Park St., a expansive space, despite the road pair of 18th century townhouses narrowing as it moves away from the probably constructed in the expectation market place. This is due to the war of other genteel architecture being built memorial gardens and The Poplars, an to accompany them in their prominent early 18th century house with two site on the main road into town. In the splendid blue cedars in its large front early and mid-19th century other garden. Not only do these spaces open houses followed and by the middle of out the street visually but their lawns the 19th century the gaps between and trees set against a background of these houses were becoming filled in mature trees in the grounds of The and the densely built character of Park Elms make an important visual 'pause' St. established. The terrace of houses between the dense building of Upper adjoining the Cross Keys (nos. 2-8) High St. and Park St. was built in the early 19th century but it cannot have been long afterwards that Red brick is the dominant building the terrace nos. 36-40 was erected material to be seen on Park St. and along with other small houses. there is an attractive mixture of slate and tile roofs. There is some stone The mixture of large and small houses building evident, mostly on larger or gives Park St. a diverse but ultimately earlier buildings such as the John enclosing feeling. The dominant Hampden School, the Police Station building types are 2 storey, terraced and 33 Park St. In addition some houses and 2 storey, semi-detached terraced houses use rubble stone in houses with large gabled dormers in their front or side walls (15 and 16 Park the roof facing the road. The houses St.). Whilst most boundary walls are are either built right on to the pavement also in red brick some stone is used, edge or set behind small front gardens such as beside St. Mary's Cottage. The some with original low brick walls (nos. Cross Keys pub, situated on the corner 17 and 18) and cast iron railings (nos. of East St. and Park St. and 88a-93). These gardens do not provide commanding a view back into Upper enough space for trees but some High St. is an understated building for greenery is provided by the front such a prominent position. It is an early gardens. 19th century building and has an Further along the street are more attractively textured tile roof and terraced houses, like nos. 36-40, and presents quite a plain facade to Upper larger houses, such as 33. The street

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 37 South Oxfordshire District Council also features the non-residential rear of the houses. There is also a buildings that fill spaces between the view into and out of the street via the houses. The John Hampden School entrance to the fields. For these was built in 1837 as the Royal British reasons it is proposed to bring the School when much of the street would Elms Park and playing fields into the still have been undeveloped. It takes conservation area (see Fig. 21). the form of a handsome stone house The area of Park St. around the petrol with flanking wings and is still topped station has a negative impact on the with its original belfry. Unlike any other historic character of the area. Opposite building in the street it is set back a Victoria Mead is a series of modern considerable distance from the commercial premises which form an pavement behind two mature copper unsightly group not helped by the beech trees. The low front wall is plethora of signs attached to their topped with large and unusual shaped frontages. However, commercial bricks (also seen on a wall in premises have long been a part of Park Priestend) that were originally crowned St.'s character, both as purpose-built by iron railings. Replacement metal premises and adapted houses. A railings are now set just inside the wall. surviving late Victorian workshop and Despite the expansion of school several shops with attractive shop grounds and the addition of ancillary fronts testify to this tradition. school buildings the original school is still the principal building on the site. The eastern end of Park St. is marked The school maintains an important by the junction with Chinnor Road place in the street scene and is a where the former Police Station centre of activity for the local dominates the scene. It is situated at community. The Baptist Chapel (built in the fork in the road and so is both an 1836) is also a building important to the eye-catcher when looking from the community as well as being of some town and has a commanding view back historic interest. To the rear of the down Park St. to the High St. It is not a south side of Park St. is The Elms large building but its stonework and Park. This has played an important role unadorned front façade give it an in restricting development behind the imposing and severe look. The large rear boundaries of the properties on area of open ground around it further Park St. and today allow views of the marks out the Police Station, from the Fig. 21. The Elms Park surrounding area. Flanking the Police Station is a pair of interesting buildings. On the northern side is 1 Chinnor Road, an attractive and well-preserved Victorian gothic house and on the south is The Falcon pub, a fanciful and eclectic piece of Edwardian design that is in strong contrast to the other two buildings. Between these buildings and the petrol station are some typical 19th century terraced houses that form a link with those on Park St. and the view out along Chinnor Road.

38 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council East St., in contrast to Park St., is the rest of 19th century East St. due to almost wholly dominated by small Gas Alley and the front garden of no terraced and detached houses. The 15a which breaks the terrace's line of north side is taken up by a terrace of facades. Gas Alley itself is an ten Victorian houses with a later pair interesting area. The attractively added at the east end. Although few weathered brick walls and the white- original windows and doors can be painted walls of nos. 3 and 4 frame the seen, the terrace is substantially intact. view back into East St. Where the south side of East St. meets Park St. earlier and more varied Proposed extensions to the buildings can be seen. Here stone is conservation area mixed with brick and the cluster of The plot behind the Six Bells in High small white-painted cottages, nos. 67- St. is an area of former garden that has 70 together with the outbuilding of the not so far been developed as has so Cross Keys, are more representative of often happened elsewhere on the the vernacular building of the area than southern side of the town. Although the urban terrace opposite. However, presently used as the pub's car park, it all these buildings are no more than is still an open space that keeps the two storeys high and built straight onto modern building beyond at a distance the pavement, giving the street a from the rear of the High St. and allows narrow feeling. The Primitive Methodist interesting views of the rear of these Chapel, built in 1864, is also of note houses with their fascinating mixture of here. Views in and out of the roofs and chimneys. The car park itself conservation area along East St. are is also very visible from Brook Lane. quite constrained. The orientation of Including this small but valuable area in the street does not allow a view into the conservation area will recognise the open vista of High St., as on Park this unusual survival as a component St., and the curve of the road reduces of the historic town and consequently views along East St. itself. focus interest on the best way it can be Whilst the conservation area in East St. managed and enhanced in the future. finishes on the south side of the street The extensive grounds of The Elms with the start of inter-war semi- and the adjoining recreation detached housing, on the north side ground/playing field form a very Gas Alley marks a short break before a important green space within the town. pair of larger detached houses. These The grounds of The Elms, whilst not are mid-19th century in date and as in publicly accessible, make a strong Park St. are probably the result of the contribution to the conservation area in movement towards building large views from the playing fields behind houses in the open countryside on the John Hampden School and from Elms edge of the town prior to the Road. They also form a vital part of the construction of terraced housing. setting of The Elms itself. Together Interestingly, the inclusion of these two green spaces frame the commercial premises in the area later south-eastern side of the conservation in the 19th century, also seen on Park area. They also separate Park St. and St., is displayed by the large workshop Nelson St. from the modern housing on in the garden of No 16. These houses Elms Road and Broadwater Avenue still have a sense of separation from and so not only create an important

THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL 39 South Oxfordshire District Council part of the character of this part of the Horton, V conservation area but also maintain its St. Mary's Church, Thame, 1992 historic integrity as a one-time fringe of Lee, FG the town. The History of the Prebend Church of Bringing these two areas into the the Blessed Virgin Mary of Thame, conservation area will formally 1883 acknowledge the role they play and www.thamehistory.net help focus attention on the historic character of the area should development around or on them ever be proposed.

Management proposals

Proposals for the preservation and enhancement of the conservation area are included in a separate document Thame Conservation Area; Management Plan. This includes proposals for the maintenance of historic buildings, trees and open spaces, design guidance for new development and public realm works and relevant conservation policies. This document is available from South Oxfordshire District Council, Conservation and Design Team; tel 01491 823771 or email: [email protected]

Bibliography

Brown, JH and Guest, W A History of Thame, 1935

Brown, JH A Guide to St. Mary's Church, Thame, 1961 (5th Ed.)

Clarke, G The Book of Thame , 1978

Dobie, B Victorian Thame: A Vignette, 1988

Golfe, S Thame Past and Present, 1998

Hickman, A and Bretherton, D Thame Inns Discovered, 2000

40 THAME CONSERVATION AREA CHARACTER APPRAISAL South Oxfordshire District Council