November 1st | 2013 years later REFLECTIONS OF FRIENDSHIP FLIGHT

From Lieutenant Governor , Chair, Historical Commission

Mead Treadwell Participant

As Chairman of the Alaska Historical common, sustainable future. These flights Commission focused on Alaska’s unique created a neighborhood in the North. anniversaries, I saw an opportunity this year, the 25th anniversary of Third, and perhaps most important, is the Friendship Flight between Nome what the era after the Friendship Flights and , to celebrate has allowed on a people-to-people basis the historic occasion. As part of that across our border in the last quarter celebration, we asked people who were century. Alaskan and on the flight to reflect and share. This families were reunited. New families, with article and the others in this publication, Russian and American parents, have been captures those memories. formed and children have been raised. Many Russian and American students There are three important reasons to have studied at each other’s Universities. celebrate the opening of our border Russian ships have helped deliver fuel between Alaska and Russia, which began to keep Nome residents from freezing with the exchange of Friendship Flights in a dark winter of 2012. Alaska Eskimo between Nome and Provideniya, and the captains now work together at Russian return visits between Magadan the International Whaling Commission to and Anchorage in 1988 and 1989. maintain indigenous whaling with their Chukotka counterparts. Our National Park Lieutenant Governor Mead Treadwell visits with members of the press while attending First, the flights were a significant authorities work together in the Beringia the 2nd International Arctic Forum, The Arctic: Territory of Dialogue in Archangelsk, Russia milestone in the end of the . Region, and the Beringia program helps September, 2011 Our so-called “ice curtain” came down keep the door open. Alaska contractors well over a year before the breach in and oilfield workers play a major role the Berlin Wall, the symbol of the “iron in Sakhalin Island development. Church the magic of song to charm Gorbachev’s born. Bruce Kennedy and Jim Johnson of curtain” which divided Eastern Europe. groups and Rotary Clubs regularly do spokesman Gennady Gerisimov to come Alaska Airlines joined the cause, seeing Alaskans helped make this happen. We good works across the border. Russians to Alaska to see the opportunities of potential new routes, and Alascom’s can be proud of hastening the end of a join athletic events here, and Alaskans cooperation. Nome resident Jim Stimpfle leadership joined seeing potential new nuclear standoff that, at best, threatened compete there. Tourists have come waged an endless campaign of faxes telecom connections. Ron Sheardown misery and death to millions of people, or to engage with the people, cultural to leaders on both sides of the Bering made us aware of mining prospects that at worst, could have ended human history and archaeological wonders and flora Strait, and Ken Wells, a Wall Street could grow from accessibility. Then Sen. altogether. and fauna of both sides of an ancient Journal writer and Jeff Berliner, then , and his assistant Jessica land bridge responsible for the original writing for UPI, made the prospect of Gavora, lobbied the White House. And Second, the opening of cordial relations settlement of the Americas. This good list an open border a front-page story. A then-Governor seized the in the Arctic region begat significant could go on and on. group of us, including myself, Stimpfle, idea, and when our efforts became an circumpolar cooperation. That is none too Leo Rasmussen, former Governor Wally official objective of the State of Alaska, soon, because the Arctic which became By celebrating these friendship flights Hickel, Nome Chamber President Neil the mission was accomplished. accessible on a political basis in the late we celebrate the people who made it Colby, State Chamber President Dave 1980’s became much more accessible on happen. and Mikhail Heatwole, University of Alaska’s Vic The two flights themselves produced a physical basis with the ice retreat of the Gorbachev toasted Lynne Cox, whose Fischer, ISER economist Gunnar Knapp, magnificent memories, some chronicled last decade. The Northern Forum, the August 1987 swim between the and State Division of International Trade here. I have many from that day, but Arctic Environmental Protection Strategy, was a precursor to leaders Ginna Brelsford, Dan Dixon and never in my life to that point would I and the allow Arctic these flights, at a White House dinner. Bob Poe went to work. Native leader, have thought I would experience what residents to work together to protect Alaska Performing Artists for Peace and State Senator Willie Hensley helped happened later. In years that followed, I’d our common environment and to forge a founder Dixie Belcher, of Juneau, used push. The Siberian Gateway Project was continues on page 2

Jim Stimpfle Participant

Before I came to Nome I met my wife sure enough was able to fill them with my Bernadette Alvanna who’s from King car exhaust and wrote a message on them Island in Fairbanks and followed her to and let them just kind of bounce across the Nome. I used to listen to some of the . Well, I don’t think any of those elders in the King Island talk about the balloons made it. early days of crossing the . It was 1986, and I wasn’t selling any houses So later I thought to myself, “Maybe I so I said, “Gee, you know that sounds like should go to the weather service and fun.” So, I started writing letters to our get a helium balloon? And my wife was a Congressman and people like that and I bilingual teacher at the school and she was started talking to other people in Nome. doing a class with the kids and we thought, “Well, let’s send some messages of I remember one late August day that friendship from the kids in the elementary In November we filled the balloon with opened the bag of goodies and saw year, I went up to the city dump to dump school. Let’s put some messages written helium and we launched it. We didn’t the Russian handwriting and said, the garbage and I noticed that the wind in English, Inupiaq, and Siberian Yupik.” want it to go too high so we tied some “This is from Russia! This is was blowing toward Russia. We had a And we had a woman named Astrid Smart, rocks on it so it’d float about 200 feet from Russia!” constant breeze, and between the dump, who was a German. She knew a little above the water. We launched it off and the breeze, and the smoke, I thought bit of Russian, so she translated some it went across and then it came back So, I followed him down the coastline maybe I could launch a balloon with my of the letters to Russian. And we even down again. It cooled off and it started with my binoculars, down to his camp. name on it, instead of throwing a bottle in had a woman write in Cyrillic. We made bouncing across and I was watching And he gets out of his boat and I come the water with a message. So I got some a little bag of goodies with sugar, tea, with my binoculars as the balloon was running up to him and Tim’s really balloons and I went down to the jetty and sewing needles, thread, chewing tobacco, going over. And I saw this boat come excited and says, “Jim, this came from I started to blow them up but they were because when I’d listened to the elders rushing up to it. I said, “Jeez, whose boat Russia! I said, no, Tim. I’m trying to big balloons, almost as big as this table, going over in the boats, I heard them talk is that? And this boat came up to it and send it over.” and I couldn’t blow them up. It was cold about trading. I thought it would be a nice grabbed the balloon and stabbed it with because it was a fall day and my car was little bag of trading items going across the a knife, throwing it on board. It was Tim Bering Strait. running. I looked at my exhaust pipe, and Gologergan who got real excited. He continues on page 4 Jim Johnson Governor Frank Murkowski Participant Governor Steve Cowper Participant Participant

I was in the U.S. Senate at the time, on 737-200 jet. Because there was a lot of Before the Friendship Flight initiative, was the clear leader of the St Lawrence the Senate Foreign Relations Committee interest generated, Alaska Airlines put the was a baleful presence group and, I would argue, of the entire and chairman of the Subcommittee a backup airplane in Nome. We were across the Bering Strait. As far as we could US contingent as well. on Pacific and East Asian Affairs. As a colorful group – Native participants tell, they didn’t like us and we certainly a consequence, I was pretty active in dressed in Hawaiian shirts. Many had didn’t like them. Alaskans and Russians walked together foreign affairs, which was both an interest relatives or distant relatives on the to the various planned events and and part of my responsibility, particularly Russia/Soviet side. We were a boisterous But and Ronald mingled happily. Some Alaskans were as they applied to Alaska. group. It was not a long flight; 35 minutes Reagan changed all that, beginning with surprised that even in this remote port, maybe. We were over there before we the Reykjavik Summit in 1986. In keeping the Soviet ladies in no way resembled There had been a lot of conversation in knew it. with the spirit of Reykjavik, there was a NFL linebackers, as suggested by US Alaska and nationally on relaxing relations follow-up bilateral agreement to allow cartoonists. Au contraire, they discovered. with the Soviet Union. I don’t know if We landed on a gravel strip in Provideniya the Siberian Yup’ik, mostly from Savoonga perestroika was high on the horizon, but and were met by military officials. Our and Gambell on St Lawrence Island, and After the publicity of the initial flight clearly it was a “flavor” – opening up first reaction was how stark and bleak it their relatives in New Chaplino, subsided, Russians began coming to the eastern frontier of the Soviet Union was. No trees. The buildings were dark and other coastal villages in Chukotka, Alaska, and Alaskans flocked to the that affronted the state of Alaska. So gray concrete, not painted. It was striking We looked forward to seeing more trade pushed the Native interest (to reunite to visit each other without visas. That Russian Far East, most of them on Governor Cowper along with the State to see a huge smokestack in the middle of and travel. You get there – you see it— families) which was tangible. The Russians seemed a small and manageable initial Alaska Airlines. Anecdotally, by 1993 ten Legislature and Congressional delegation the town, belching black smoke from the you reach an evaluation in your own were reluctant but ultimately honored step, and it led to the Friendship Flight on percent of the students at UAA were [Representative , and Senators power plant. I thought this was probably minds, and then where do we go from the request, and we were assured we June 13, 1988. Russian. There were the usual grave and Murkowski] had several a gulag. That may have been, but at least there? When we got back, there was a wouldn’t be shot down on the way over. pronouncements about business and opportunities to highlight the prospects it was in our minds. There was no specific lot of interest and inquiries and a lot of The Friendship Flight changed Alaska’s trade, but in the end the Friendship Flight of opening the frontier. Alaska Airlines identification, but if you were sent to coverage of what the significance of the You wonder if the circle is going to come Jim Johnson was Vice President of We had a meeting with the Mayor of relationship with Russia forever. I felt delivered exactly what its name implied: was a frontier pioneer for new air routes Siberia you were just left in those days – event was. It was significant as it opened around again or is it going to be extended. Alaska Airlines at the time of the Provideniya at the time and concluded lucky to play a role in the flight; as it friendship. There was solidarity among and nuclear and foreign affairs groups in no fences. up the Russian frontier and created the President Reagan said, “Tear down that Friendship Flight and one of the that was not the place for scheduled turned out there was a tightly-packed the people of the Arctic that transcended Anchorage, Fairbanks and the University cultural recognition that although the wall,” and it ultimately came down. passengers on board. service because there weren’t adequate Lower 48 press scrum trying to muscle its national borders. We had more in had generated a high level of interest A lot of military met us however. We two worlds were alike in many ways, they Now we have a problem again. Nothing hotels to accommodate visitors. That’s way onto the plane and David Ramseur common with each other than we did resulting in a formal request by our didn’t feel like we were being watched. very different in many other ways. It was stands still – everything changes in the Here’s How it all began. Alaska Airlines when we decided to do the Friendship had to kick several big shots off the plane with Moscow and . federal government to Moscow on the Frankly, there wasn’t a lot to do or places an eye-opener and a breakthrough and world. Putin has been able to master the was having a community advisory board flight, to reunite the Eskimo population to accommodate the Yup’ks, who after all prospects of “raising the Ice Curtain.” go to so we were wandering around. of value because it eased the tension Russian political system to where he’s meeting in Nome and a local realtor by with their relatives. We put together a list were the purpose of the visit. Recently, during a conference in It was a more regional approach to between the two countries. After the back in power and a force to be reckoned the name of Jim Stimpfle asked to make a of people to go that included Bill McKay Vladivostok, I was constantly amazed what had been called the Iron Curtain The Russian native people were very trip trade and commerce didn’t grow as with. They might regain influence under presentation to the group. He wanted to and I, Frank Murkowski, , After a forty-minute flight in an Alaska at how much knowledge the Far East elsewhere. friendly – very outgoing. I remember rapidly as we thought. One of the Nome his leadership that they lost during talk to us about the possibility of getting Steve Cowper and Bruce Kennedy. The Airlines jet provided by Bruce Kennedy, officials had of those times, and the going to a luncheon. There was native airlines established a charter flight that perestroika. Technology, nuclear power, a regular flight to Provideniya in Russia. rest of the passengers were the Eskimos the chairman, down we came in importance they attached to it. Alaskans The trip was scheduled, and there was music and dancing. Alaskan Eskimos got went on for a while. and the Star Wars concept brought the He talked about how the Eskimo people who’d been separated from their relatives Provideniya. As the nominal leader of had played an historic role, and for once a high level of interest from the Native up and danced with them. We looked Soviet’s to their knees. The Soviet Union had been trying to communicate with on the other side. Bruce insisted we have the Alaskan contingent, I was met by a we focused our attention outside our own community, particularly from Nome, the for things to do like shopping. I went to The distance between Moscow and collapsed internally. Putin’s contributions their relatives, separated from them by two planes in Nome in case there were young lady who presented me with the borders. We looked outward instead of Bering Straits Native Corporation, and a leather tannery where women were Provideniya was quite long – the Soviet need to be played out. He’s in forefront the Cold War, by sending balloons with any mechanical difficulties with one of traditional gift of salt bread. The people looking inward. that region in the Northwest, because selling black leather. We were embassy was initially not enthused or now, but his stature in world leadership messages on them. them. But it went off without a hitch. of Russian America had come home to prior to the Ice Curtain and WWII, there anxious to buy, but there were not many impressed that we wanted to go to the has increased dramatically. When we landed, the whole town turned Mother Russia. The great Tim Gologergen, For us, that in itself was a revelation. was seasonal, unrestricted traffic. After things to purchase. Soviet eastern frontier from Alaska. After the meeting I talked to our out at the airport to meet and greet us. whose knowledge of the lands and waters the War that was closed down. Moscow had little interaction with Alaska Airlines offered an entry into a Chairman, Bruce Kennedy about the idea It was a spectacular event especially of the Siberian Yup’ik was unsurpassed, There was a banquet that night. In our the area – it was too far away. There frontier not available to people for so and he liked it. He started procedures for the people hadn’t seen each other The delegation included a number of minds, this was an important event was nothing significant they could many years. It’s too bad it didn’t work to get a flight over there, applying for for many years. There were festivities Alaska Native Eskimos from the Nome because it seemed to be an opening identify there except military for their out, but the Russian bureaucracy and permission from the Russians to go. We including theirs and our Eskimo dancers area and the usual representation of for further exchange. We got a few own security. We got the feeling they the cost of fuel made it too cumbersome heard nothing back from them for a taking turns on the stage and there were government officials, the president gifts that were seized by the U.S. Fish wondered, why would anyone want to go to endure. while, but in May of that year we received exchanges between dignitaries on of the University of Alaska Anchorage and Wildlife Service because they were to the Russian Far East? There was some notice from the Russians granting us the both sides. and members of State Chambers of walrus carvings, skins, etc. Nothing delay until they realized our interests authority to fly there. Commerce and other groups. We were extraordinary, but we appreciated them were honorable, and we were interested Eventually we did schedule regular taking a smaller plane, an Alaska Airlines and the thoughts behind them. in a people-to-people trip. Finally we The problem was we didn’t have any flights between Alaska and Vladivostok, information about where we’d be landing; Magadan and Khabarovsk. where was the airfield or how long it was. There was no way we were going It was important to do the Friendship to fly a jet in there without having that Flight because relations between the Dixie Belcher information. So we asked permission to and Russia were falling. It Participant take a smaller plane over to check it out. was an opportunity to take advantage We flew out of Nome and a of the relationship between the Eskimos In March, 1977, while on tour as director Having witnessed, with my folk/rock across the United States, ending in Little “What about the Eskimos” I said. “They group of us flew over and met with the of both nations and reunite them. It was of a large folk rock group, I flew to Little group, the incredible power of music Diomede – talking up peace between our want to visit their relatives” Mayor there. When we landed, the air important to Alaska Airlines and it was Diomede. We were in Nome, had some to effect change, a preposterous idea countries and the idea of opening the traffic people came out and gave us a important to the State. It’s great we’re “They can” he said. spare time, and I was curious. We landed instantly formed and I blurted “back door”. hard time because they said we hadn’t let celebrating the anniversary of the flight on sea ice – on the International Date Line out “Let’s take a group of Alaska “What about tourists?” them know we were coming. Soon they and remembering that opportunity. that runs between Big and Little Diomede, performers across Russia! Let’s try In the meantime, other Alaskans thought invited us inside and we shared all of the and briefly entertained ourselves by to open the border!” the idea of opening the border to trade “They are welcome.” information we’d sent to Moscow that running back and forth between today and tourism was a good one and were was never shared with them. “Small planes?” and tomorrow. We arrived at the village Thus began Alaska Performing Artists for writing and lobbying Washington. Alaska of Little Diomede on snow machines, Peace – 67 Yupik elders and teenagers, Airlines wanted to establish flights to “Yes, they are welcome too.” clutching the young Inupiaq drivers that Black Gospel singers, Caucasians – and Russia and the idea of a Friendship Flight bounced us over sea ice, frozen into one Tlingit – that, after months of was being discussed. Mead Treadwell, “Then the border must be open!” I said, high waves. organization and rehearsals, in 1986, a representative of this group, asked incredulously. performed for three weeks across the me to fly to Moscow to the June Peace “Must be.” Little Diomede had about 100 citizens, former Soviet Union to wildly enthusiastic Summit between Presidents Reagan and Mead Treadwell living in tiny houses guy-wired into cliffs crowds that sometimes broke down doors Gorbachev, to encourage Gerasimov to “Can we have a celebration in that jut up from the sea. One of them to see us. keep lobbying Soviet leaders to open continued from page 1 Anchorage? This is historic!” was the National Guard Armory. Inside the border. find myself in a Russian tracked vehicle, spill. I’ve toured a gulag in Magadan; things came to be, and to set us off to the notion that we can’t talk, walk, hunt, was a large sign “If the Russians Attack, We met Gennady Gerasimov, Soviet “Yes,” he smiled “If you invite me”. circling a Russian missile site, or stuck days after its political prisoners were make better things happen yet. As global fish, trade, and explore for resources and Surrender”. Outside, Eskimos waved ambassador and spokesman on a I was almost penniless – but people In June, Alaskans boarded the historic inside a Chukotka nuclear power plant at released. We’ve hosted Chukotka’s past shipping comes to the Bering Strait and work together. through binoculars to people on Big preliminary trip. He thought the goal of contributed until I had just enough money flight to visit their neighbors across the 2 a.m. to use the computer to forge a new Governor Roman Abramovich, an oligarch the accessible Arctic Ocean, we are busy Diomede – 2 ½ miles away – where close opening the Alaska/Soviet border was for a ticket. I arrived in Moscow with Bering Straits. The following February, emergency response protocol between and one of the world’s richest men, and building new cooperation in marine As we approach the 150th anniversary of relatives had lived – people they had important and said he would help. We $5.00. Gerasimov met me with the news 92 Russians landed in Anchorage for a us, or sheltering an abandoned polar co-conspired with Russian native leaders safety, to prevent oil spills and protect the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the been forbidden to see or correspond with finished our tour as guests of Gerasimov that no one was interested in opening memorable week-long celebration and bear cub on Russia’s Wrangell Island in to promote whaling, expand and profit food security for a world that depends U.S., there is a new generation of Russian – since 1940. at the Soviet Press Center, with the border and he was pretty sure the the beginnings of many friendships and a tiny cabin with my late wife Carol, or from reindeer herding, save walrus, on our fish, and Alaskans who depend on Americans who have joined descendants international press in attendance. effort was hopeless. I remembered Soviet joint businesses – and even marriages! working with Shane Johnson and Roman bears, seals, and birds from over hunting. the Bering Sea’s bounty. We seek stronger of the 18th and 19th Century relations The scene was unforgettable and officials telling us “Of COURSE we’re not Bratslavsky and Mike McBride to bring Taking advantage of this open door to cooperation on science. Cheaper energy in this region, to celebrate our common remained with me long after I had left. In 1988, Yupik storyteller and musician, letting Americans in! We don’t even allow This experience proved to me that a thousands of tourists to this region to help Alaskans has been a continuous may come from new shipping routes for heritage. And whether we can see Russia Chuna McIntyre, and I went on a three Russians there!” I begged Gennady to group of ordinary citizens can, absolutely, experience adventures at Whale Alley, adventure. residents of both Alaska and Chukotka. from our homes, as the national joke put Eight years later, in February, 1985, Marti month U.S speaking tour entitled: keep trying. effect change. the Walrus Festivals of Chukotka, the bird Alaska’s exports to neighbor Russia are it on Saturday Night Live, Alaskans know Behr, representing the Palo Alto group “An Eskimo’s Vision of Hope: Melting rookeries of the Bering Strait. I’ve been As Lt. Governor today, I have the honor of about the same as with Mexico, ten or there are friendly neighbors to the west, “World Beyond War” was in Juneau, the Ice Curtain”. Our appearance in After the second joint press conference in the room in Archangelsk with Vladimir chairing the Alaska Historical Commission. eleven million dollars a year, and could close to where we live. drumming up members. Someone Washington happened simultaneously with Marlin Fitzwater, Reagan’s

Putin to discuss the Arctic, and dispatched We celebrate our anniversaries to remind be much bigger. Air routes have started, sent him to my house. He made a long and accidentally, with Gorbachev’s first spokesman, Gerasimov met me with the Alaskans to help clean up the Komi oil ourselves and educate our kids as to how stopped and started again. But we’re past “Cheers,” to all that, as we would raise presentation, ending with his hope of Peace Summit. Gerasimov was there, incredible news that the Friendship Flight the toast, or “Na zdorovie!” someday taking Alaskans to Siberia. and agreed to a three week lecture tour had been approved.

2 3 George Krusz David Ramseur Participant Francis Alvanna Participant King Island Dancer, drummer, singer, hunter and carver citizen diplomacy between Alaska and travel, the hassle wasn’t worth the result. While most focused on glasnost through As we walked, Mead told me of his and were greeted warmly by the citizens of Twenty-five years later, I can still see Russia. Heady days followed. a Moscow lens, Alaskans joined hands Governor Hickel’s interest in melting the this remote village. the glee on the faces of Alaska Native The 1988 Friendship Flight was my first visit Third, the world changed. With the Cold across the Bering Strait in our corner of so-called “Ice Curtain”, the imaginary line elders reunited with long-lost relatives to Russia, I have been there three times. I did Just a few months later, Cowper became War over, interest in Russia waned as the the globe to melt the Ice Curtain. That’s separating the Soviet and U.S Diomede What I do remember was the many on Provideniya’s crumbling tarmac after not have family there but went as part of a the first Alaska governor to lead a trade Middle East heated up. President Putin the legacy of the Friendship Flight a Islands in the Behring Straight. He phone calls I received prior to the flight Alaska Airlines’ Friendship Flight set down dance group. Before they closed the curtain and friendship mission across the Russian hasn’t helped, ejecting Western non- quarter century ago. mentioned Provideniya, a small village from people asking, and in a couple of on a sunny June in 1988. my dad and uncle used to go there – I was Far East, from Russia’s northeastern-most profits, banishing young female rockers on the tip of the Soviet mainland where instances, almost begging to be included. about six years old then. They would go by village of Eelen to Vladivostok. to Siberia and snidely telling Americans With renewed dedication, that legacy relatives of Alaskan natives lived. Prior to I explained I had nothing to do with the For generations, Alaska and Russian skin boat. I was born on King Island but we we’re not exceptional. also could be the foundation for a future the curtain’s descending these families flight manifest suggesting they try Jim Native people traveled freely across moved to Nome when I was twelve. Although Alaska communities established sister-city Alaska where our leaders and our citizens would frequently visit but it had been Johnson of Alaska Airlines. Jim never the Bering Strait to trade and share a we were close to Russia I felt safe and did not relations with their Russian counterparts. In my current job as U.S. Senator Mark embrace the benefits of cross-border many years since this had occurred. He forgave me. common culture. A Cold War “Ice Curtain” give much thought to (the Cold War). I don’t slammed shut the U.S.-Soviet Maritime Alaska Airlines launched regular air Begich’s chief of staff, we’re doing what relations, making us strong, self-reliant and the governor were in the planning remember talking about Russia during those And indeed the flight was the first step border in the late 1940s, freezing regular service to several Far East cities. Stores in we can to overcome those obstacles. My and cognizant of our unique place in stages of arranging such a reunion. days growing up. in opening trade and regularly scheduled contact for nearly 40 years. Nome accepted rubles. The University of boss meets with his Russian counterparts the world. Alaska established the American Russian to focus on issues such as governance It immediately occurred to me that if flights to cities in the Soviet Far East. I remember when the plane landed we saw Center to teach U.S. business practices, of the Arctic, management of shared this came about it could possibly be of The Alaska Chamber led the way in this A goal of the Friendship Flight was to (David Ramseur staffed his boss, Gov. border guards, soldiers. It made me a little attracting hundreds of Russians to Alaska. fish and game resources and enhanced The first I heard of Provideniya, Chukotka great interest to the Alaska business development sponsoring several trade reunite those families and capitalize on Steve Cowper, on the Friendship Flight nervous at first, but when we walked to the cooperation in trouble spots like Syria. Autonomous Region, USSR was in January community, a first step leading to trade missions to the area and one which growing momentum to improve relations and has been active in Alaska-Russian meeting hall there were soldiers by the road One of my more memorable jobs after or February 1988 on a Sanibel Island, between Alaska and the resource rich included high level talks in Moscow. with Alaska’s second closest neighbor. relations since. He is currently chief of Florida beach. I was walking with Mead and everyone was friendly. We spent many the Cowper days was at the Center was We recently participated in a workshop at staff to Alaska U.S. Senator .) Soviet Far East as the area was then hours talking in Indian and Russian. The Treadwell, now Lt. Governor Treadwell. (If I may be permitted a personal note: I was press secretary for then Gov. Steve administering a $2 million grant courtesy the Russian Embassy in Washington, D.C., known. No doubt the thought occurred to Russian dancers danced longer than expected I had become acquainted with Mead my fondest memory of the current Cowper, who took office two years earlier of the late Senator Ted Stevens and Vic to brainstorm ways to resume regular air many others. I followed the development and we ran out of time so the twelve or through my association with Governor Lt.Govenor is he and I carrying something pledging to expand Alaska’s international Fischer for educational, scientific and service between Alaska and the Russian of the idea closely keeping in touch fourteen of us who went to dance never Wally Hickel. I was President of the Alaska like $20,000 cash in paper bags at ties. Russia was also my avocation, so cultural exchanges between Alaska and Far East. with Mead. did have the chance. The dances were very State Chamber of Commerce. Governor midnight from the Anchorage Convention touching soil in the “Evil Empire” for the the Russian Far East. similar to ours. During my second trip a guy Hickel was past Chairman of the chamber. I don’t remember much about the “The Center to a safe in the Hotel Captain first time and practicing my shaky Russky from Gambel sang the Walrus Song for me Then just a few months after taking office, I must have mentioned to Mead I would Friendship Flight” except thinking what a Cook following the closing of a chamber language skills on real live Russians was Elisha Miller and I danced. Governor Tony Knowles led an urgent Participant be staying on Sanibel a few days following bleak looking landscape as we descended sponsored trade show of Soviet made especially thrilling. a meeting near Miami. His grandmother goods. We made it safely.) relief mission carrying tons of medical into the Provideniya airport. That In September of this year, Francis again lived on Sanibel and he would be visiting In the months preceding the flight, efforts supplies to Sakhalin Island, Russia, after Nome, Alaska. June, 1988. We are a group line is cut off. So the night before impression dissipated quickly as we boarded a plane bound for Russia. This time her at the same time. to improve Alaska-Russian relations an earthquake leveled a community of six passengers for the six-seater plane: we were scheduled to depart, I to . already were underway. Juneau’s Dixie there. I’m still struck by the contrast two officers of Alaska Airlines, two senior went underneath the cafeteria table Belcher led Performing Arts for Peace between those destitute survivors and B737 captains, a flight technician, and me. where we had been conferencing across Russia, Nome’s Jim Stimpfle the promise of Provideniya eight years The pilot and co-pilot of the Piper Navajo (yes, under the table, for better Vic Fisher launched balloons across the Strait and earlier. During those years, love even are veteran flyers in Alaska’s . acoustics), cleared my voice, and Participant in 1989 return Lynne Cox swam the 2.5 miles between blossomed: scores of Alaskans and Our task: to cross the Bering Strait the asked the operator to put me Friendship Flight Big and Little Diomede Islands. Russians got married. next morning and fly a short distance to through. We would either get a Provideniya, USSR. There we will make clear connection, or not. I would The challenging logistics for the flight Regretfully, like January in Magadan, preparations for Friendship Flight One to either have time to say what was Having missed the June 1988 Friendship processing techniques with processors were cemented when Cowper hosted relations across the Strait cooled. I follow two weeks later. needed, or not. The call went Flight to visit his wife in Australia, Vic in Magadan; academic ties between at the Governor’s Mansion in Juneau attribute it to a combination of factors. through. Mayor Kulinkin’s wife Fisher was eager to participate when Magadan and the University of Alaska President Gorbachev’s telegenic First, the novelty wore off. Most Alaskans I had lots of practice telephoning my answered. Fate, it seemed, was in the Alaska State Chamber asked him were formed, along with high school spokesman, Gennadi Gerasimov. He I know hosted at least one Russian in their family while living solo in Khabarovsk (a our favor. to coordinate the February 1989 return exchanges between Anchorage/Kenai worked behind the Soviet scenes to clear home, which satisfied their curiosity. large city to the south of Provideniya). flight from Moscow to Anchorage and Magadan; and scientists from both the runway. I knew the ropes: be certain the phone I had only one sentence I needed to via Magadan. areas led scientific collaboration and Second, doing business with Russia number is correct, cross my fingers that say. I raised my voice and spoke in established a joint scientific research The flight attracted international media was too challenging. Between currency the connection will be clear enough to slow and clear Russian; do you know Vic’s role was to make sure that the center between the Russian Academy attention and launched nearly two exchange issues, lack of fuel for airplanes hear both the incoming voice and the approximately 100 Russian guests of Science and the University of Alaska. decades of enthusiastic and productive and the burden of securing visas for outgoing voice. Talk quickly before the continues on page 7 aboard the flight – including national Jim Stimpfle and regional officials, artists, writers, Subsequent to the return flight, Aeroflot continued from page 1 musicians and reporters – were Russian International Airlines began a warmly received and left with a regular, direct route between Moscow That was the first attempt and we decided That was a very good memory for me about good impression of their Alaskan Willie Hensley and Anchorage, and an agreement for to be more serious, so we formed a small Nome, and it also proved a real important hosts. Vic orchestrated the greeting, Participant visa-free travel between Russia and committee of citizens in Nome. Some of point about a small community that no interpretation, transportation, lodging, Alaska was negotiated the following year. the people that I remember were Chick matter how small you are people can do a agenda, and volunteer support for the Trainor and Janet Ahmasuk also came whole lot of things together as a community event. It was these original, special- I was born and raised in Kotzebue, and Today, the only direct passenger flight to one of our meetings. We started this and change things. arrangement flights, and the host we were in the midst of the Cold War. I between Russia and Alaska is Yakutia action group to find a way to open the committees that coordinated them, was a war baby. They had built a DEW Airlines’ seasonal, summer service border and find somebody to write letters That’s the story I’m sharing with you today that cleared the way for the permanent (distance early warning) line system, so between Kamchatka and Anchorage to. Coincidentally we had a ship that about that time period from 1986 to about opening of airspace between Russia we were quite aware that there were – which Vic guarantees is only due came to Nome called the Surveyor that 1988 that took a lot of energy on my part. and Alaska. Russians not too far away. They created to airline economics, not airspace was going to Providenya, so we wrote a My wife thought I was crazy -- possessed a citizen ground observer corps and restrictions nor a lack of goodwill. bunch of letters and sent them over. And with this crazy idea to open the border and Perhaps the most significant impact of I still have my patch. They wanted us then we had a woman by the name of to get other people involved, but it paid off. the return flight was that it established ordinary people to observe and report Vic’s further involvement with Alaskan- Lynne Cox who swam from Little Diomede The one thing I have with me today is this a sister city relationship between any unidentified aircraft. Whenever Russian cooperation included a March/ to . And because of those glass case, for eye glasses called an Atchki, Anchorage and Magadan. we saw a plane, we’d get ahold of the April 1989 flight from Anchorage to two events we actually got a chance to made by the people of Chukotka. Of the telegraph office and let them know. We Magadan, and he later became Director meet some people by way of letters. many souvenirs that we’ve had over the Among other business relationships, were always aware there were Russians years later, in the late seventies, I was years. The first western goods came control the government had over the of Russian Affairs for the University of We met the Mayor of Providenya years, this is one of many that is easy to the Governor of Magadan, Vyacheslav in the neighborhood. And we knew able to organize a reindeer trip taking across Siberia to Chuckchi and into Russian hunters. The government kept Alaska in the Office of the President, named Kulinkin. carry around and keep my glasses in. That’s Kobets, invited Doug Drum, owner of our own people lived a couple of miles folks from NANA, as the corporation Alaska. Things like tobacco, coffee, their boats and gear and equipment where he worked to foster and why I carry it. Indian Valley Meats, to share meat away in Little Diomede, but Siberia was was getting into the business, to see pots and pans and metal. People were and fuel and clothes and they had coordinate Russian-Alaskan scientific ties. This was a great event, because a lot of the other side of the moon. We knew it millions of reindeer in Russia. We got traders and for the people from St. to check with the government when us had been taught that Russia was the was there, but we never saw it. the funding to travel to Russia to visit Lawrence Island, it was a phenomenal they were going out hunting. That’s Evil Empire, the enemy and the border, ON THE MOST Occasionally we’d get reports of with people who managed reindeer. Of experience to visit and talk to people something we would never been able first closed in 1948, was never going to be RECENT FLIGHT: hunters pursuing polar bears closer to course, we had to go around the world with the same language and lifestyle. to live with in this part of the world. open. We got lucky and Gorbachev and To be in Anadyr 25 years after the the Siberian side than the Alaskan side to get there. I also had a chance to visit Every human being in Provideniya was They saw hunters as on low end of the Reagan became buddy buddy. Reagan Friendship Flight was hard to believe. and we’d hear about meetings on the the Russian Far East in Yakutsk which at the airport observing this alien craft political and cultural scale. But after stopped talking about the evil empire The changes there from a soviet town to ice of native hunters from both sides. was almost impossible to get into. It from Alaska touch down. It was quite the old system fell apart, hunters were and had a few summit meetings. And a modern Arctic community just 2 hours was a fascinating trip in November of a celebration, and phenomenal visit, more self-sufficient as the government then Alaska Airlines came to Nome for from Nome on a local air commuter like We were in a Cold War zone, and the 1979 and it gave me more impressions but a symbol of a new era dawning for support began to diminish. Siberia, like its Board meeting, I went before them Bering Air is important to us as Alaskans and U.S. military was concerned about of the country. Russians and involvement by Alaskans the Arctic is a hard place to live without and said, “How about flying to Russia?” Chukotkans. I hope the State of Alaska can spying, and the Russians getting onto in business and tourism, etc. access to natural resources, whales, There was utter silence. They didn’t say a help reopen trade, tourism, and educational St. Lawrence Island to watch America. Twelve years later was the friendship walrus, ducks, seals, etc. thing. And I sat down in my chair after the exchanges for the private sector and I had been to Russia and studied flight. After that it was an amazing Later, I was part of a delegation from meeting and I said to myself, “Gee, I must educational experiences for school districts the language both in Fairbanks and speed in the change that began to NANA that went over there and Later Russian visitors came to Kotzebue have bombed. And I remember one of the in Alaska. This is really a new beginning for with George Washington University happen. I remember we barely had spent time with Yuri Tetotta the last in boats and we had a big celebration. Alaska Airlines people came up to me and us and the efforts we accomplished 25 years in Leningrad and Moscow. I spent time to drink a cup of coffee and there regional official under the old system They weren’t able to travel well, but said, “Jim, that’s a great idea we’re going ago. Let’s work on this. Thanks. most of the time in Poland which was it was this land mass coming down into and we got to revisit with him and the they were not well equipped. So we to do it!” So we started planning the phenomenal and eye opening because Provideniya. I was with people from St. community of Lavrentia. We traveled to offered them rain gear and motors. For whole thing and it was June 13th, 1988 I’d been in two countries where Lawrence Island who had relatives on the hot springs and got another whole our part, Ted Mala had organized a ship that we went to Providenya directly from communism existed, and got a closer the Russian side where tons and tons look and visit with the native people. that went from Nome to Provideniya, Nome in a jet. view than most Americans. Twelve of trade had gone on for hundreds of We had a chance to see the unusual and we were on that ship after the Friendship Flight. 4 5 Bob Poe Chet Walukiewicz Elisha Miller would require special permissions and Organizer Participant continued from page 5 cooperation. I would need local good will. Yet I was on my own. I had neither The call came early on a Saturday and Jim Rowe of Bering Air traveling on a we are coming tomorrow, arriving at the driving inspiration of the Governor of In 1988 I received a call from a woman funds and make the right connections morning. It was Governor Cowper. He twin engine Beachcraft to Provideniya to eight in the morning local time? And Alaska, nor the unflagging efforts of Jim who was interested in having me help and somehow everything fell into place. said, “Poe, the Russians just called, they check out the air strip there to see what only one sentence I needed to receive. Stimpfle, nor the Alaska Airlines Company her raise money for the Nome Cultural It got political, however, because with the want us to come over in a few days.” My size aircraft could be accommodated. Yes, we know. to support me on the ground. Here was no Center by selling commemorative ability to raise money came arguments response, “yes sir, I’ll get on it right away.” I remember seeing the two wing their covers. A “cover” is an envelope with over who would receive it. In the end, we common family culture to bring impetus As the State’s International Trade Director way west having left Nome without any With that affirmation received and with a special design on the left-hand size were successful in raising the money for and energy to the project. I wished for it would be my job to pull this adventure clearance to enter Russian air space. But the special bravado of Alaskans, the (called a cachet), as well as a stamp Nome Cultural Center. someone like Oleg Kulinkin, Provideniya’s together. There was just one problem clearances came while they were in the next morning we took off. We landed and a cancellation. The idea was to mayor, someone who wanted to help. with my promise; I basically had no idea air, and the real “first trip” to Provideniya in Provideniya. The Mayor greeted us get the stamp and cancellation in Because of our mission, Jon Van Zyle and Who wanted to help me? what the Governor was talking about. happened with few problems. Luckily, an cordially. No one had a visa. Seven of us Nome and Provideniya respectively I were able to get seats on the plane that early version of the 737 200 with gravel had our passports. One of the pilots had Fate again appeared in positive dress. as an opportunity associated with the was limited to 85 because of the runway After a morning, making calls to people deflectors on the landing gear was just only his driver’s license. My guide for this fact-finding mission Friendship Flight to raise money. I was in Provideniya. I felt fortunate to be on involved with the idea of a friendship the ticket for the Provideniya airstrip, and (whose name I have sadly lost) had been a member of the Anchorage Philatelic the plane. The rest of the story unfolded flight, both around Alaska and around Alaska Airlines still had a few in service. The ice barrier had begun to melt. the Director of the Port of Provideniya Society, Alaska’s oldest Stamp Club. during the thirteen hours in Provideniya. the world, it was clear I had to get on a So 10 days or so, after the Governor’s where we had met ten years before. He We had made a print of the Van stood there for a couple of hours while plane to Nome, where the idea began, initial call, we now had a time schedule, While the others talked about the The problem was the flight was to take The passengers were divided between the remembered me and I remembered him. Zyle cover art and as we crossed the American dollars were exchanged immediately. an appropriate aircraft, a list of Eskimo technical details of landing a B737 at the place in two weeks, short notice for the natives, the politicians, the press corps We greeted each other as old friends. I international dateline at Little Diomde we to rubles. family members, and an infinite list of small airstrip, I assessed what meetings task ahead. I was the only one who really and the business leaders who all wanted knew he would do all he could. And he did. had the dignitaries on the plane sign it. Jim Stimpfle, the Nome resident who Alaska dignitaries who wanted on this we could arrange for Friendship Flight knew how to pull it off (I had worked on to communicate and reestablish relations This is the perspective I am left with. The day we landed was an unbelievable Riding on the bus coming from the airport started the idea by sending balloons with historic flight. Just one more problem, One passengers: business, cultural, native similar projects for the Pope’s visit to the with the Russians. We knew it would be Friendship Flight One helped us to make day and we made friends with the in Provideniya was such an odd feeling. notes from Nome to Provideniya, Russia, there were only 90 seats available due to family reunions. I was interested in the state and the USS Alaska visit and other an historical moment because the Berlin friends, fast friends, lasting friends Russians. When I look back I realize We were in a communist country, but we began with a simple thought. Wouldn’t load factor issues. My job – choose who potential for joint business. I listened activities during the 80s), and we had Wall had broken down. But we never felt reciprocating favors as, and when, we that it really opened up the East-West all comingled-- people to people -- the it be great to reunite Siberian Eskimo went on the flight. While this task might carefully as the Director of the Port of precious little time. I knew who I had to the press coverage was there. could. The projects that followed the 1988 Relationship. Ultimately the Russians same thing we do day in and day out. And families from King Island, who regularly have seemed mundane, it was fraught Provideniya explained how the port served call to design the artwork for the cover. Friendship Flight One are too numerous came over a year later. I thought to myself what in the hell are traded and intermarried with the Eskimo with political peril. as a repair and emergency shelter for I got ahold of Jon Van Zyle who was The friendship flight was the first crack to delineate. The consequences of that we fighting for… we should be friends not people on the other side of the Bering both Soviet and foreign ships in distress willing to do the design. I asked him “How between east and west relationships. flight too nuanced to describe. What It was on the trip I met Mead Treadwell enemies. It was very emotional for me. Strait? Jim’s wife was from King Island. Probably one of the two smartest (including American). And how it also fast can you provide me with a design We would only be successful if officials happened in 1988 was a big step. Looking for the first time. He served as our decisions I made at this moment in the served as a staging area for small supply of the native culture coming together.” on both sides signed off on the covers – back 25 years later, we established border treasurer for the day. People on the plane The Russian press corps put out press The Nome perspective on what the project – half the airplane seats would convoys to other areas in the region during The design was used with press packet and we had to work through a language cooperation between peoples of different wanted to be able to buy souvenirs in corps sheets and they were willing to flight would be about was quite apart be assigned to the Eskimo families since the ice-free season. I listened, took notes, and Frank Murkowski put out a packet barrier, but somehow they knew exactly countries. Even though some of the Provideniya. So Mead and Neil Colby share, so we grabbed everything we could from what leaders in Anchorage were their numbers were roughly half the got contact information. with the commemorative cover with the what we needed and we were able to promising ideas didn’t come to fruition, gathered up everybody’s money and get our hands on. My mission over time imagining. The Resource Development available seats. The second decision – I pull it off. some did. Some got started then got cachet art work. I was able to get the took it to the bank in Provideniya and Council, who had also taken an interest wasn’t going to be on the flight myself. has been to try to preserve what I could. On the flight back to Nome that day, stuck. Some got started, changed or ran in the idea, imagined a trade mission to This made the next and most difficult job our small group was ecstatic with our their course. open trade opportunities with Russia. a little easier – which dignitaries would reception: both by the goodwill exhibited And still there was another perspective I travel with the Eskimo families by Provideniya’s Mayor Oleg Kulinkin So too, with the Tumen River Delta Project. had never even imagined. Many Alaskans to Provideniya. Gunnar Knapp and the possibilities for interchange, Now 15 years since its first steps, I can’t had, in earlier lives been quite active in Participant cultural and commercial. I knew that say its progress has been smooth. On monitoring Soviet movements during the Once Governors, U.S. Senators, one-on-one personal rapport and good the contrary. Yet, after a decade of delay, Cold War – in short, they had been spies. Congressman and their wives were communication would be requisite for Looking back more than twenty-five years would be. But it was particularly amazing then ended: most travelers wanted to fly recent announcements tell us that two the Governor’s office about what the They were also very interested in seeing assigned seats the list of available seating cooperation—and we’d have that. But I to the Friendship Flight of June 13, 1988 then because until then our world had to places like Moscow and New York, not major railroad routes in the tri-country opportunities might be for trade and Russia for themselves. became pretty scarce. But because we also knew that decisions almost always brings back a flood of memories. We ended at the border: what was beyond Magadan or Anchorage. Many dreams for delta area have re-opened after being travel between Alaska and Russia. maintained a clear view of the original are made by players in Moscow who hold knew we were participating in something was unknown and closed to us. And business and cultural cooperation were closed down. The success of first steps So one day after the Governor called, I purpose of the flight – to reunite Eskimo the strings even for a far-away small town special, symbolic of great changes that hostile, too: it was less than five years frustrated by bureaucracy, corruption, takes years to assess. We knew very little about Provideniya was in Nome trying to understand how families that had been separated by the like Provideniya—and that could put a were happening in our world. For many or the Soviet Far East. I think none of us since Korean Airlines Flight 007 had been cost and misunderstanding. In recent we could pull together a flight full of “Ice Curtain” J. Edgar Hoover established wrench in things. Nonetheless, that year, Interventions of governments or powers of us it was the beginning of relationships had ever been there. All of the Soviet Far shot down by Russian military jets en years Russian (and perhaps American) Eskimos and business leaders, and fly during the Cold War, it was fairly easy 1988, was my first on-the-ground work greater than the individual make uncertain and experiences we could never have East was closed to foreign visitors and route from Anchorage to Seoul. officials have been acting more and more them to Provideniya, Russia – legally and to prioritize the seating. In particular for American companies and all of us any project’s outcome. Initiatives and imagined. even most Russians. It was only twenty- like their cold war predecessors. It has safely. In Nome I was presented with a I remember one politician who was who made Friendship Flight One happen projects can derail, but the people who five years ago—but it was before Google It was amazing, soon after taking off taken more and more effort to maintain list of approximately 50 Eskimos who had berating me on the telephone suggesting were thrilled with the success of this cross authored those projects, the people who I was a young economics professor at Earth, the internet, and all the other from Nome, to see the mountainous relationships with Russians, and sadly, family on the other side. In Anchorage, that he would eliminate my organization border project. became friends carry the friendships. — the UAA Institute of Social and Economic amazing changes that have made so much coast of Chukotka to the west, to circle after so many years of trying, I’ve mostly I was building a list of dignitaries who from the budget if I didn’t get them on, Research. I was on the flight because I the ice-choked bay, and to see the big stopped trying. and the projects’ lights—forward. This is information so instantly accessible. wouldn’t miss the first flight between I was able to simply say, “Senator, I’d be Now, fast forward ten years to 1997, to was one of the few Alaskans at that time concrete buildings of the town along the what lasts. It is this essence of Friendship Alaska and Russia, since Alaska Airlines happy to get you on the airplane, just let another cross border cooperation project who spoke some Russian, had spent shore below us. It was amazing, as we It’s too easy to be cynical about the Flight One that I honor. Once we get to It was an amazing—actually surreal— “Golden Samovar” flights during the 70’s. me know which Eskimo family I should at Russia’s southeast corner where some time in Russia, and knew something landed, to see the hammer and sickle flag disappointments. The Friendship Flight know each other, we become friends. experience to have breakfast in kick off to make your seat available.” That Russia, North Korea, and China meet. about the Russian Far East (how things of the USSR, Soviet border guards, and symbolizes momentous changes that And as friends, we hold fast. We can even Anchorage, have lunch in Russia, and Two things had to be decided in Nome, comment was usually followed with “then Under the initiative of the United Nations have changed!). I had been advising crowds of Russians waiting to greet us. It profoundly altered our world for the hold forever. return to Anchorage—all in one day. It still who needed to be on the flight from give me your seat!” And, once again I Development Program, the Tumen River was amazing to find ourselves in a place better. Most importantly, we no longer Anchorage, and what schedule was could calmly tell them, I wasn’t going Delta Project envisions a tri-country so close to Alaska but so Russian—with live with the constant threat of nuclear Elisa Miller, PhD, was the Soviet Affairs possible – we all knew a “few days” was either. At that point the threats ended. industrial delta and transportation Rep. Dan Saddler Russians in fur hats and speaking Russian, catastrophe. We’re not yet the close Consultant and an interpreter for probably not going to happen. After also And once the Friendship Flight took off scheme. This project is as visionary, Participant Aeroflot jets, Communist party banners friends we had hoped to become with Friendship Flight One. She now lives in meeting with Alaska Airlines President from Anchorage International Airport, equally pioneering, and considerably and slogans, a statue of Lenin—and our Russian neighbors, but we’re no Clinton, Whidbey Island, Washington. She Bruce Kennedy we thought 2 weeks was my role in this historic flight was also, more complex. The preliminary work I borscht. Provideniya was as Russian as longer enemies. We know each other; is interested in obtaining any film footage I had been reporting for The so often, so fervently, or in so many more doable. This thought was followed thankfully, finished. was tasked with in 1997 would not be Nome is American. we cooperate in many ways. As the Arctic taken in Provideniya. Email: elisam@ Anchorage Times only a few months, accents. Many news stories in the years up the next week with Bruce Kennedy as simple, but footwork always starts in changes, we will need to cooperate whidbey.com when my fresh master’s in Soviet following documented that business the same way: a fact-finding mission to Our few hours in Provideniya are a blur much more. press systems and smattering of – oil and gas, mining, fishing, finance – the area. The week-long trip I planned Russian vocabulary won me the prize was the primary reason for continuing of memories—speeches by Russians and assignment of accompanying the June efforts at cross-border cooperation and Americans in a packed auditorium, Native In the years after the Friendship Flight, 1988 Friendship Flight from Nome communication. elders from Alaska and Chukotka joyfully many Russians stayed in my home. Many Leo Rasmussen to Providenia, a concrete-block port reunited, a banquet with more speeches became dear friends. Many became my Participant and fishing town that looked a lot Was it a publicity stunt, a political and toasts, talking with Russians who students. Many live in Alaska and have like Whittier, but without the charm. gesture, a family reunion, or an walked with me around the town, taking enriched my community and my life in Cheechako? You bet. I had heard of international cold sales call? Yes, and pictures with Russian kids. many ways. I’m profoundly grateful that I wasn’t one of eighty five people that That Friendship Flight and that experience people in an auditorium where we talked participate in the Iditarod and the Yukon Ted, Don and Frank, but couldn’t have more. The Friendship Flight opened a the normalization of our relationship was scheduled to be on the Friendship opened up a whole new avenue in my back and forth. I was able to propose Quest. Nicolai Ettyme who was of Chukchi picked them out of the crowd of Alaska brief window of international relations And then it was time to fly home. There which began with the Friendship Flight Flight and that included my nephew life even compared to my experience as to those in that assembly that a Soviet blood, continued that relationship Natives, politicians, businesspeople and across the Bering Strait. Its origins was no time to get to know each other. made this possible. the Mayor of Nome, John Handeland. the US Official to receive the Greenpeace (Russian) Native Chukchi was to be given between Chukotka and Alaska. His Soviet-Alaska enthusiasts that jammed as a grass-roots diplomatic effort The chances for that, unleashed by the Neither of us was scheduled to be on the 7 back from the Soviets in 1983. The and offered the opportunity to participate youngest Child was born in Alaska. the Alaska Airlines 737. (I knew the guy reminded the ordinary folks on each Friendship Flight, came in the following Life didn’t change very much after the flight. There were eighty five seats on flight in the Alaska Airlines 737 over to in the Iditarod as a musher. The Soviets with the cowboy boots, cool mustache side of the border of our shared history, months and years, in places like Nome Friendship Flight for most of us Alaskans. the plane and anyone who thought they Provideniya only took 30 minutes to had shipped in some people from the That day in Provideniya, we had a and press secretary was Governor and reinforced our common isolation and Anchorage and Anadyr and Magadan Not so for the Russians we met that were someone, wanted to be on that first cover a couple hundred miles between seat of the larger Government, Magadan. celebratory luncheon for which they Cowper, though.) from central authority (as the Russian and Petropavlovsk. There were many day. Within two years the Soviet Union flight to open the border between Alaska Nome and Provideniya. When we came All of us were rather stunned when shipped in food from all over Russia to proverb stated, “God and The Czar are conversations and meals and toasts and collapsed, and with it the political and and the former Soviet Union. When the to Flower Bay, the Alaska Airline’s pilots the Governor of Magadansk spoke and treat us like kings and queens. A young What was clear to me and everyone both far away”) that meant almost banyas and adventures and encounters economic system that had built and plane landed in Nome, every seat was flew down the full length of the Bay and admitted that the natives of the Far East lady waitressing us eventually married a else was the excitement felt by the anything was possible if you were with dreamers and schemers—both supported remote places like Provideniya full of “wanna be’s”. The people upon then circled back, landing at Urelicki, the area had been mistreated. To have their Nome Bering Air pilot and continues to Alaska Natives who made up most of audacious enough. Most importantly, I Russians and Alaskans. A great comic since the terrible times of the Stalinist disembarking were hoping someone community across from government admit that, and that they live here in Nome. Her son was born and the passengers, eager to seek out long- believe it played a small but significant novel is waiting to be written about some gulags. Decades of turmoil followed. I scheduled to be on that plane would die Provdeniya. As we got off the plane, we were on the wrong path was astounding raised in Provideniya. He ended up being lost relatives on the other side of the role in eroding away the harsh walls, of those times and characters. suspect that few of the people we met so they could get on and be a part of this were surrounded by young kids who had -- it impacted me and all of us. my interpreter for one of the later trips Ice Curtain during our frantic one-day whether stone or political, that the that day remain in Provideniya. It is hard monumental flight. Congressman Don come from their classes, 1st through to Anadyr when we went over to witness visit. Just about as keen was the desire Soviet Union had so long used to keep After a decade much of the early for us to know what their lives were like Young and his wife had seats provided 4th graders. Their signs read “MIR” the For me, then President of the Iditarod the swearing in of Roman Abramovich of the hosting Soviets to leverage this the Russian people isolated from their excitement of our new relationship with then and afterwards. Remembering them for them as honored guests, however the word “peace” in Russian. For them there Trail Race, the intent was to offer the who became Governor of Chukotka. Our brief cultural visit of Alaskans into neighbors in the larger world. I’m glad it our Russian neighbors began to wear from my pictures of that day, what I hope Congressman and his wife Lu could not was no question of us being enemies opportunity for a musher from Russia to relations with Chukotka have continued more lasting economic links – I’d never happened, and I’m proud to have been thin. Economic and political realities set most is that out of all that turmoil has make the flight and he turned his seats or anything of that sort, they sang and participate in the Iditarod; eventually two on since then in spite of our, and their heard the word “joint venture” uttered a part of it. in. Direct Alaska Airlines and Aeroflot come—or will come—a better life for over to the Mayor John Handeland and cheered. This was quite a surprise for mushers were to come over and would national government’s creating hardships flights to the Russian Far East began and them, their children, and their country. me, as at the time, I was Don Young’s those on the flight. We were there for actually participate. Both completed the continues on page 8 Northwest Alaska campaign adviser. thirteen hours, and had a conference of Iditarod and Nikolai Ettyme would again 6 7 Ginna Brelsford Participant & Organizer of Friendship Flight, Governor Steve Cowper’s Office of International Trade

Olga reached out to touch my hair, The day of Friendship would come wildest dreams. Yet, for the natives on the Welcome to friendship I remember literally. I looked just like her: blonde to initiate a back door to melting the flight, these were blood relatives and they thinking, welcome. No matter how many hair, blue eyes. I think we were both “Ice Curtain” forging new partnerships hadn’t eyed their neighbors warily, they barriers, we Alaskans are an open, risk- shocked. It was June 13, 1989 and our with age old ‘enemies’ and open the had a deep desire to reconnect and taking bunch and we will find a path. Alaska Airlines jet had landed on June 14 boundaries across the Bering Strait, speak their own language with their And we did. And it began that day on a across the International Dateline in the eschewing ideologies of Communism own families. jet dubbed the Friendship Flight when closed Soviet city of Providenya. A few of and Capitalism that allowed the natural a group of leaders and diplomats and us walked with Governor Steve Cowper, process of people to people contact to I’ve often looked back and used the now related Natives united to reach out to Alaska Airlines CEO Bruce Kennedy, Native lead the way. That was perhaps among tired phrase “I was in the right time in the begin building a bridge that lasts to this leaders and Alaska villagers and Senator my expectations: to facilitate a plane right place,” One is rarely, truly rarely, in a day. Those living on the territorial edges Frank Murkowski into a swarm of people ride across a border, a , an place in life where history is being made. of the Russian Far East and the Alaskan onto a rugged street with three colorful international geographic – even secret Arctic continue to tackle important kiosks. Hands reached out to shake hands and dangerous - landscape that captured The leadership and the ability to take a environmental, cultural heritage and and the political leaders placed souvenir a dream of mine to go east and explore risk like Governor Cowper and Alaska generational strengths and challenges. pins of the State of Alaska into the hands the beauty of our Divided Twin. Airlines CEO Bruce Kennedy were willing This flight began a process that allowed of our Soviet hosts. It was however, the to take demonstrated a vision that has the hand of one to touch the hand of the rapid-fire Siberian Yupik language and The Soviets of Providenya especially resulted in decades of openness for other and we call it friendship in celebration that was among the most shrouded in that time, under the severe culture and commerce, adventurers any language. remarkable and notable first impressions restrictions of communism, certainly had and diplomats. Today, natives can travel of our walk into Communism. their own version and impulses to go visa free to see their blood relatives. An honor. A privilege. A frontier west psychologically. They were under Adventurers can ski, kayak and travel adventure. A true Alaska unfolding that One had the distinct feeling new paint the thumbs of a Moscow mandate of a across the water, sometimes treacherous, crossed cultures and made long lasting had arrived the day before for the closed city within a closed Territory within that lay between our two nations. connections. And after all, is that not the buildings and a few ‘merchants’ had a closed internal and external passport definition of our frontier spirit? Is that been rounded up to promote a form system. We would be the first foreigners It was a great honor to have been the not the definition of ‘friendship’ that we of commerce. And even though it was they would see for generations. And we point person to organize the Friendship all want for our children and especially dubbed the Friendship Flight, the entire were ostensibly the enemy. Imagine. Flight for Governor Cowper and Robert our school children in both our nations field of visitors was shrouded in a sea of Poe and the State of Alaska Office of to learn? The flags the kids in the streets stern-faced guards with berets bearing My speculations were greater at the International Trade. It was an even flew that day caught that spirit. Many of the shields of the KGB. We had already time than my expectations. There were greater pleasure to witness the Alaska those kids, now adults are in their 50s pushed our passports into their hands layers of relationships and views about frontier character and warmth extended and maybe 60s and I’m willing to bet that but now we could deliver the gifts we our neighbors across the Bering Strait: to those across the Bering Strait whom day changed their lives. Some may have had carefully chosen in Alaska stumbling mostly we had eyed one another across had lived under conditions far less suffered severe consequences by their through the Russian our translators a strait of water which was such a small fortunate than our own. It allowed us government for the risks they took in taught us on the short flight from Nome, body of water really – less than 1.5 all for however brief our visit, to dream even talking to us that day – speaking to Alaska to what we called at the time, miles -- with a wariness and a military together of the opportunities and a foreigner, often forbidden. But yearning Provideniya. Even maps hid the city. might on both sides that flying across accomplishments that might well grow for human connection, for friendship has That’s how secret it was, we couldn’t find that on an Alaska Airlines flight with a from this endeavor and to have this serve a way of doing that. We all want it and it it anywhere. mix of natives, business leaders, political as catalyst for a hospitality that would be has a way of winding its lovely and long leaders, journalists and citizen diplomats repeated again and again. lasting way into our hearts. Friendship was beyond, at that time in my life, my can do that to all of us.

Leo Rasmussen Jon Van Zyle continued from page 7 Participant for travel between us. I’m not happy with how our, and/or their governments have responded The committee wanted me to be the talking about a race called the “Hope us that physically went on the race and to the opening of the border. But then, I don’t official artist for the trip. Being familiar Race.” It took a couple of years to we were stuck in a check point because sit in Washington DC waiting for things to with the reasons we were going over, I organize and the first race was held in we’d lost a musher and were there for happen nor do they in Chukotka sit in Moscow. talked to Leo Rasmussen in Nome and 1991 and is still continuing today, in a several days waiting for a helicopter For sure, we both are on the opposite sides of I talked to Jim Stimpfle and I talked to different format. The race went from to try and find her. At one point, a the world from our governments. other people and got an idea of what Nome to Teller and Wales. In Wales helicopter showed up, we thought the trip was going to be about and did Russians in Aeroflot helicopters picked it was ours to use. It wasn’t. Several In the thirteen hours we were there, I shot a fairly small montage painting for a us up and flew us across the Bering Sea, lawyers with briefcases and guys with twelve and half rolls of film. After I had cachet and it was also used for t-shirts we ran dogs from to Anadyr. The AK-47’s got out of the helicopter to processed them, I looked at the pictures and and brochures. The original is in the race was from 1,000 to 1200 miles long. arrest me. Apparently some Russians my mind’s eye memories did not match the possession of Alaska Airlines. had broken into one of the guard photography. Six weeks later, we had a joint Another personal memory I have from houses where the racers kept supplies meeting with all of those from Nome that The actual flight to me was one of the the flight, was that I’d taken over 50 to and had stolen methyl alcohol, or Heat, had gone on the Friendship Flight, it was only most the heart wrenching things I’ve 100 of Alaska posters we’d published which we used for our dog cookers. then I realized I’d taken some of the finest ever done. The idea of families from for years. I was going to give them Several drank it and died and they held photography of my life. What I saw was the the Nome area having a dad or uncle to the people, not necessarily to the me responsible. A nice Russian I had representation of what we’d witnessed -- the out kayaking or hunting one day and officials, but just the people. I had left met on a previous trip to Siberia to communication that began with the flight. In suddenly they became Russian and one of the meetings and gone out organize the race, stepped in and sort the thirteen hours, various groups opened up; not knowing what happened to those to the bus we’d been transported in of saved my bacon, although I don’t first the 1st to 4th graders, then the teenage people. The whole thing was about from the airport. I stood alongside the think they were really going to arrest school groups, trying out their very rudimentary reuniting the families, not only those bus and was passing out a poster to me. I think they just needed to make English. It was no less fantastic for them, than lost, but the guys from the islands that people as they walked by and within the point that they were in control. it was for us. Piece by piece, young adults in had relatives over there they’d never 3.5 seconds, I had 100 people around their 20’s and 30’s began to open up. As we met from centuries ago. The whole me, pushing and shoving, grabbing at Without that friendship flight, we were boarding the Plane to depart Provideniya, thing was neat. When we landed, me and the posters and things. I’ve had would not have had the “Hope Race”. I remember the old folks who came over to to see those families reunited with some hairy experiences before but this I had known I was going to Siberia the airport. They were not sure if we were the relatives with relative, some lost and was scary. All of a sudden from out of as the artist for the friendship flight. enemy but I remember their arms beginning some just relatives they’d never met the crowd, a hand came through and Because of my life-long interest in the to reach out over the crowd, wanting to let us was incredible. grabbed me and pulled me through and Siberian husky, I wanted to know more to know that they cared about a relationship it was KGB. There were lot of KGB guys about them in Siberia. They had been of friendship that may have begun with the Another thing we did was few of us around, looking and watching and he imported in early 1900’s into Nome Friendship Flight and reunion. had cooked up an idea to have a dog saved my bacon. He told me we from that area. I shot gunned letters race between Siberia and us. We hadn’t don’t do that here because we will to every museum and university in It was one of the highlights of a lifetime and been dealing with the Russians for God be mauled. Russia asking to meet somebody in after thirteen hours of finding and hopefully knows how many years. The Olympic Provideniya for the friendship flight. creating friendship, we came back to Nome. committee was considering re-doing Another scary experience after the Somebody from the University did For another two years, we’d broken down the sled dog demonstrations to be included Friendship Flight was that I was almost meet me and she was an expert on the border, going back and forth by ship, Umiaks, in the Olympics, which had been done arrested during the “Hope Race”. Chukchi Native and the Siberian husky. boats, flights, and dog teams -- everyone in 1925, but not since. They ended up There were only three people who I would never have done anything wanted to cross the border and extend the having the demos, and we knew the officially headed up the race, Leo more with the Russians except for arm of peace. Then our governments hastily Russians would want to participate. A Rasmussen from Nome, Jerry Tokar the friendship flight if it hadn’t been retrenched, got back in and the friendship couple of us challenged the Russians from Anchorage and me. We each had for that connection. It was a very, became once again long distance. at the meeting to a dog race and they our assigned duties and were dealing very wonderful time – an absolutely accepted and a few weeks later we with the sports committee in Anadyr. I wonderful time, and a memory of time had Russians sitting in our living rooms was the only official from the three of gone by.

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