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Home , Architecture of Peru, Barrio Chino (Lima), Blood soup, Ceviche, Chicha de jora, Chicha morada

Culinary Travel In Best and and Where to Find It

Foreword by Pedro Miguel Schiaffino Culinary Travel in Peru The Best Food and Drink and Where to Find It

Foreword by Pedro Miguel Schiaffino

Copyright © 2015 Aracari Travel

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Layout & design by Simon Ross-Gill Front cover photograph courtesy of ámaZ . Culinary Travel in Peru: The Best Food and Drink and Where to Find It Contents Foreword ...... Pages 6-7 Preface ...... Pages 8-9 Regional Styles ...... Pages 10-11 Dishes to Try ...... Pages 12-15 Fun Food Facts ...... Pages 16-17 Need to know ...... Pages 18-19 Lima Introduction ...... Pages 22-23 Culinary Experiences ...... Pages 24-27 Listings ...... Pages 28-43 & The Highlands Introduction ...... Pages 46-47 Culinary Experiences ...... Pages 48-49 Listings ...... Pages 50-59 The North Coast Introduction ...... Pages 62-63 Listings ...... Pages 64-67 & The South Coast Introduction ...... Pages 70-71 - The Spirit of Peru ...... Pages 72-73 Culinary Experiences ...... Pages 74-75 Listings ...... Pages 76-81 The Amazon Introduction ...... Pages 84-85 Culinary Experiences ...... Pages 86-87 Listings ...... Pages 88-89 Words and phrases to know ...... Pages 90-91 Guide to ...... Pages 92-93 Guide to tropical ...... Pages 94-95 Guide to medicinal ...... Pages 96-99 Yellow chillies for sale About Aracari Travel ...... Pages 100-101 at the market in Lima with plantain at ámaZ restaurant

Foreword But it’s not all just down to the ingredients. also introduced Moorish influences such producing a young of chefs and Our have been shaped by a as techniques and new such culinary experts and they are surprising By Pedro Miguel Schiaffino multitude of cultural influences too. as and . More recently, local and foreign connoisseurs alike by The first civilizations in the Chinese immigrants fused their influences applying new techniques and presenting Peru n As a who has made on the Peruvian coast developed many with criollo to create a range of dishes in ever more innovative ways. his name specialising in our techniques of harnessing the bounties of dishes classified asChifa , which combined national perhaps The result of Peru’s unique combination the ocean, as well as trading with people Chinese techniques such as stir fry with of history, geography and climate is I’ somewhat biased, but from the jungle and sierra to acquire Peruvian ingredients. Descended from I cannot think of another a modern gastronomic that supplementary . Later, as civilisation Japanese settlers, the Nikkei style has most is growing in reputation across the culinary more exquisite than that flourished in the , ever more notably entailed mastering the preparation of the , markets and world. And with its beauty, diversity inventive agricultural systems evolved. of fresh raw . Other influences range and true essence derived from the of Peru. Fortunately you don’t have to The Incas, in particular, were masters of from as far afield as and other Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary take my word for it. Even a brief visit to freshness and locality of the ingredients, Peru in Travel Culinary successfully managing food production countries in and America. there is no better place to sample the our country will reveal a mind-bending and distribution throughout their empire. diversity of ingredients and styles. Internal migration has also helped to make country’s cuisine than in Peru itself. Since the Spanish conquest, several waves the capital city Lima the gastronomic Welcome to Peru, a country full of flavour. From a food perspective we must be one of immigrants have infused our cuisine center that it is today. Many regional styles of the luckiest countries on Earth. Exotic with new flavors, ingredients and styles from around the country were transported fruits and delicate river fish from the to create unique combinations and to to the city during the last few decades Amazon; seemingly endless varieties of characterize the criollo style of cuisine (or as millions of people moved to Lima in One of Peru’s top chefs, Pedro Miguel pulses, and root plants from the Peruvian “creole” food) that embodies the search of work, producing a cauldron of Schiaffino, is an alumnus of the Culinary Andean heartlands, and succulent best known dishes today - all long before and cultural cross-pollination. Institute of America in New York. He plucked straight from the cold of “” became a popular term. has gained worldwide recognition as a the south Pacific, all come together in the Modern cuisine has been shaped by the pioneer in the use of ingredients from country’s countless restaurants to produce While the Spaniards brought recent refinement of culinary technique, the , showcased in one of the world’s most divine . Mediterranean and , they particularly in Lima. The establishment his restaurants Malabar and ámaZ and of chef schools such as Le is on the Aqua Expeditions cruises.

6 7 Preface Hence the guide that you’re reading right now. Our team has spent months By Marisol Mosquera, researching and updating our top Founder Aracari Travel recommended restaurants, cafes, pop- up eateries and other food and drink Over the last decade Peru experiences across the country to has established itself as an create this, the first ever comprehensive equal among the world’s guide to Peruvian culinary travel. gastronomic superpowers, becoming world-renowned for its proud This guide is organised according to history of culinary traditions whose richness Peru’s highly distinct cultural regions: and diversity are unparalleled virtually Lima, the highlands, the north and south anywhere on the globe. It came as no big coasts, and the Amazon. Along with an surprise when three Peruvian restaurants introduction to each region’s culinary featured on the 2015 list of the world’s histories and traditions, you’ find full 50 best restaurants compiled by listings of our most highly recommended Pellegrino, including Central at number 4. restaurants plus a range of culinary experiences in each destination. If you At Aracari we have witnessed at first don’t find an establishment listed in this Peru’s explosive arrival on the world guide, then we don’t recommend it. food and drink stage. There has been an insatiable surge of interest in Peruvian One of the things I love most about n Peru n cuisine over the last few years to which Peruvian food, and therefore all the places we’ve been happy to respond, developing listed in the following pages, is its tradition unique culinary experiences and diligently of “popular cookery” - food created by the researching the finest and most exciting people, for the people. There is nothing dining opportunities across the country. exclusive or fancy about Peru’s culinary traditions, and although the country’s This is no small task. The revolution in many world-class fine dining chefs have remains young and developed the concepts with great results, Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary incredibly dynamic, with new restaurants some of the most rewarding experiences constantly emerging and vying for (for those with a stronger stomach) are to attention. Keeping on top of the trends be found in the markets and backstreet is a challenge even for our team of eateries that only the locals know about. experts working night and day to find The best are included in this guide. the best experiences the country can offer. For the visitor, navigating Peru’s All that’s left to say is:Buen provecho! culinary on a brief vacation, it can be almost overwhelming.

8 9 Regional Styles North Coast Pages 60-67 Being a coastal region, this area is especially known for the freshness and deliciousness Peru is getting more and more press for the quality of its cuisine. of its . Many consider the region to offer some of the best cooking in Peru Although the gastronomic publicity tends to focus on the capital, Lima, overall. One of the signature dishes of this area which can be found elsewhere but should culinary adventures await the traveler wherever they go in this country. definitely be tried here if you’re in the area isArroz con Pato or con Pollo ( with duck It’s not surprising, really. The diverse geographical regions that Peru is or ). Although the is as simple as it sounds, the is heavenly and, if the duck or chicken is cooked properly, it’s fabulous. known for has led to varied and which in turn has led to, not surprisingly, just as much diversity in the cuisine. Each region has its Lima Pages 20-43 own specialties and, while you can find them elsewhere in the country, While the top restaurants in Lima tend toward fusion of traditional dishes and flavors there’s nothing like trying a dish in the place that gave birth to it. with that of other countries, the original style tends to fall under the umbrella of criollo. Criollo itself is also a fusion, having been the culmination of influences from the original indigenous , Spanish conquerors, and African slaves. Although Peruvians throughout the country enjoy spicy (picante) food, Limeños will rarely eat a without . The dish itself may not be prepared that way, but if a spicy (aji) or fresh spicy (rocoto) is not served, it will surely be asked for.

The Amazon Rainforest Pages 82-89 As with elsewhere in Peru, the cuisine in the Amazon is mostly about using local ingredients. Not surprisingly, fish is a staple of the here so if you’re a seafood lover, you can try some of the freshwater varieties such as paiche or even piranha.

n Peru n is also a common addition to , particularly the which will often be fried and served with the main dish. You also might want to try the juane, which is a dish of chicken and rice and local spices wrapped and cooked inside . Like many dishes here, it will typically come not only with the ubiquitous fried but also with yuca or root. Cusco and the Highlands Pages 44-59 The highlands tend to be colder and, therefore, meals tend to be hearty. If you

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary happen to go to a small, local restaurant for , one that has a set , you Peru in Travel Culinary might be shocked to find that pretty much every main is served with riceand potatoes. While that may seem like a overload, for folks who are doing tough manual labor at altitude, it is just the fuel they need. The really different to try here are and guinea , calledcuy . Alpaca is delicious and low in and – think of it as a lighter, healthier . An alpaca with a local sauce, such as one of sauco (elderberry), is quite a treat. Arequipa and the South Coast Pages 68-81 The southern coast of Peru is best known for the production of pisco. There are many distilleries and vineyards around the town of Ica, and a handful are worth visiting. About two hours inland, the city of Arequipa has distinct criollo food consisting of large quantities of , potatoes, rocoto chilli peppers and corn. The simple and original fare is showcased at the city’s various picanterias. Culinary Map of Peru

10 11 Dishes to Try Highlands/Lima Made with , this succulent dish is traditionally served with . It is the dish of choice for some holidays, such as the Dia de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead, on November 1. Highlands/Lima Originating in the Andes, this earthy Chicharron South Coast/Lima pre-Columbian combines Unless it specifically says chicken or Aji de Gallina Lima and sun-dried potatoes with , fish, chicharron is made from pork and Chicken in a creamy, slightly spicy and aji panca (chilli) and other spices. typically, at least in a local countryside nutty sauce . Served over potatoes, type of place, is going to be akin to topped by hard boiled and with a pork rinds. You can find it other places, side of rice. though, where there is a fair amount of Lima juicy meat left on. Think of this as the Peruvian take on Chinese stir-fry with beef, tomatoes, and . Served with rice and .

Causa Lima A dish served cold, often as an

n Peru n appetizer, causa features either fish or chicken (usually) sandwiched in between layers of mashed yellow Choclo (con Queso) Highlands Lima . Typically includes a Choclo is a type of corn that looks a bit Marinated meat roasted and served on layer as well, frequently . Highlands/South Coast like on steroids. Although , traditionally made from beef Popular in the highlands, this is a style (anticuchos de corazon). not as sweet, it is tasty when served fresh. You will often find it outside of cooking where and tourist areas or sold on buses, usually are cooked over pre-heated stones in a Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary offered with queso (a slice of Andean hole in the ground. Some restaurants Peru in Travel Culinary ). serve this but may need advance notice.

Cebiche (Ceviche) Lima/North Coast You can’t leave Peru without trying cebiche. Made with fish, shellfish, or a Arroz con Pato or Pollo North Coast combination of the two, the raw seafood Succulent duck or chicken accompanied is “cooked” by marinating with Arequipa by rice and infused with fresh and mixed with spicy pepper and red de Camarones Lima/Arequipa Spicy red chilli pepper (rocoto) stuffed . Originated in the town of . Served with choclo (a variety A rich and creamy made with with and onion and then Chiclayo of corn) and . This is large . Often flavored with baked with cheese on top. A specialty the quintessential Limeño dish, and huacatay from the Andes. of the Arequipa region. considered best eaten at lunchtime.

12 13 Beverages to Try

Chicha Morada A non-alcoholic sweet and refreshing drink made from .

Coca Seco de Cordero or Tacu Tacu Lima Lima/Arequipa Made from leaves, it really does A combination of rice and help adjust to the altitude and is highly -braised lamb or kid stew seasoned mashed together into a thick and recommended for those arriving in the with plentiful fresh coriander, chilli creamy . Can be accompanied by highlands. and cumin, and accompanied by either a steak, fried plantains, seafood sauce, yellow potatoes or white beans. or even a . de Jora Craft A slightly made from The craft beer scene in Peru has germinated, fermented corn. It is to Try exploded, particularly in Lima where definitely an acquired but worth there are now about 20 different trying, if only to say you have done so. Alfajores microbreweries. Barbarian and Sierra More typically associated with Andina are well established brands , the Peruvian version consists with different styles from IPA to porter. of two soft and crumbly filled n Peru n with . Emoliente Served at practically every other street Arroz con Leche corner, this is a gloopy that This is basically a rice (rice with Peruvians swear by to warm themselves ) that is frequently served with Suspiro Limeño up during colder months. . In San Blas Plaza, in Cusco, A type of or you can find this on the street at night. pudding, topped by fluffy . Pisco

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary The country’s national , pisco is Peru in Travel Culinary Mazamorra Tres Leches a made from , enjoyed Chilcano A pudding made from purple corn, and A decadently rich sponge , soaked straight or used in . See pages Simple and popular combining seasoned with cinnamon, it is especially in three types of milk. 72-73 for more details. pisco with ale, and delicious paired with arroz con leche. . Topped with a dash of Angostura Turrón de Doña Pepa bitters and garnished with a slice of key lime. There are dozens of variations This is a sweet, sticky, chewy and Although there are other classic that can be made by macerating crunchy cake made from layers of made from pisco, this is the Peruvian Fried , by any other name. Usually different ingredients in the pisco used sticks that have been soaked national drink and, therefore, a must- from a sweet potato dough and served as a base for the Chilcano, such as with miel de chancaca (molasses). in molasses and topped with colorful try. You will be offered free ones and . Traditionally everywhere but try one at a place that’s fruits, or even spicy chillies. prepared around the month of known for them so you know you’ve de Limon October, to coincide with the Señor de had the real deal. Peruvian , a version of Milagros festival in Lima. meringue pie.

14 15 Fun Food Facts

One cup of cooked Peru is the world’s largest contains 8 exporter of fresh . grams of , making it one of the most protein- rich foods available. It also contains all Camu-camu, a fruit that grows nine essential amino , twice in the Amazon, has a higher as much fiber as other , , concentration of , , and than any other fruit in Riboflavin (B2). The Incas called it the world, 60 times more their “Golden ” or “Mother than the humble . Grain” and the UN named 2013 “International Year of Quinoa”. Peru is one of the few countries in the world where the best selling fizzy drink is not Coca Kiwicha, another high Cola. is a sweet, protein grain-like bright-yellow pop of lemongrass n Peru n product that grows , which is ubiquitous in the country. It natively in Peru is in was described as Argentinean writer Jorge the family. Luis Borges as “an implausible drink”.

Peruvians eat guinea ! originated with The idea of what in the pre-Columbian other places can be a beloved

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary peoples of Peru, child’s can take a bit of Peru in Travel Culinary where it was called getting used to but it is a ’arki and originally made to Peruvian highlanders. It is most often from alpaca or . served al horno (roasted in the ) in the highlands and comes to your table whole, complete with head and claws. Another way you may see it offered ischactado , or Close to 4,000 varieties deep-fried. If you are intrigued to try cuy of potatoes grow in but prefer something that leaves a bit more Peru (where the plant to the imagination, there are many finer “Canchitas”, a originated) and more restaurants that serve dishes that are simply made with than 55 types of corn. made with the meat. For example, Cicciolina, Limo, and Incanto in Cusco or La Gloria in Lima all offer more subtle ways to give it a try.

16 17 are available for these ailments Tipping over the counter but it’s not a bad idea Although tipping was once only expected to pack whatever you prefer for this kind at the places that catered to tourists, of ailment and if you don’t start feeling it is now normal for foreigners at least better after a day, seek medical advice. to tip at all restaurants other than small menu places catering to locals, or Patience street vendors. The expected amount You will find that once you get out of is 10%, although more for exemplery Lima, customer often doesn’t service is certainly appreciated. match what you’re used to at home. Such things as waiting a long time to get served Water (or even to get the menu), dishes not Perhaps it goes without saying, but do coming out all together, and appetizers not drink anything but bottled water not coming out before mains are fairly anywhere in Peru. In the cities, it can commonplace. Choose your restaurant be highly chlorinated and outside carefully if you are in a rush, and be the city it is not treated at all and sure to mention that to your server. can be swimming with .

Payment Ice Cubes If you are not in one of the tourist-oriented With regard to ice cubes, reputable n Peru n restaurants, there’s a good chance establishments will purchase bags of ice that credit cards won’t be accepted. In that have been made with filtered water. addition, small restaurants (like small If you are in any doubt when you visit mean a suit and tie. More Peruvians go out Need To Know shops) often don’t have change. It’s a a more rustic restaurant, do without. for expensive meals in Lima and, just like good idea to use the largest bills you Altitude most cities, people like to make it special. can at bigger establishments, saving the smaller change for the smaller venues. One of the effects of altitude is to Digestive Problems Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary slow your down. Be careful Peru in Travel Culinary Fish and Seafood not to overeat on your first night This is not uncommon as you travel, given especially, and try to avoid eating greasy that any new place will have bugs that your Unless you are in a 4- or 5-star restaurant, food. It’s also best to avoid alcohol tummy is not used to. It is an unfortunate stick to local fish when you are in the when you first get to a place of high truth that, despite following stringent highlands and save the experimenting for altitude such as Cusco and . rules, even the best restaurants are the coastal areas, including Lima. In the prone to complaints about food poisoning Andes, this means that you are better off Attire once or twice. As a general rule, unless with at the smaller establishments. you are in a 5-star or tourist-oriented In the jungle there are local river fish to In most of Peru, you can go out to eat in restaurant, avoid non-local seafood as well try, although in Puerto Maldonado 60% the nicest restaurants without dressing up as raw vegetables and unpeeled fruit. of fish sold in the town were recently for the occasion. In Lima, however, if you’re found to contain unsafe levels of mercury, dining at an upscale place, you’ll feel more Bear in mind that, as mentioned above, a result of run-offs from activity. comfortable if you make more a bit an altitude can cause issues such as sluggish effort although this does not necessarily digestion, nausea, and constipation. Many

18 19 LIMA LIMA ima n Peru n Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary

Fishing boats at Chorrillos harbour in Lima

20 21 Bay at Central restaurant LIMA L ima

Lima bringing culinary traditions from the dishes (think quinoa ). restaurants. These include mazamorra Iberian Peninsula to the -- albeit Despite this lengthy and continual morada, a thick pudding made from Lima is one of the world’s classic culinary adapted to make use of local ingredients. purple corn and fruit, and the ubiquitous n Peru n , classic dishes are indispensable melting pots, a place where Peruvian suspiro limeño, a sigh-inducing history and foreign combine to Later, in the mid-1800s, more than one for most limeños (residents of Lima). hundred thousand Chinese contract Ceviche is ever-present in the coastal of manjar blanco (dulce de leche) and create -- and continually evolve -- some cinnamon-sprinkled meringue. of the country’s signature dishes. laborers, mostly , began capital, be it straight from a stall in to arrive in Peru through Lima. Yet the Chorrillos or freshly So where will you find all this Lima fare? The Peruvian capital has a culinary scene another wave of gastronomic adaptation prepared in an elegant cevichería. Other Well, the relatively upscale districts of that remains refreshingly free of gimmicks began, resulting in , the Peruvian- essentials include the mildly spicy and Miraflores and San Isidro are always and pretentions, a scene that honors Cantonese fusion that is now an creamy ají de gallina, the Asian stir-fry good for fine dining, while Barranco

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary as much as it does the modern essential part of the national cuisine. inspired lomo saltado and the summer has everything from rustic cevicherías to Peru in Travel Culinary fusions of the city’s most acclaimed Not all of Lima’s culinary influences came classic causa limeña, a layered dish of traditional pisco-fueled peñas. Central chefs. While you may be dazzled by the mashed yellow potatoes, vegetables and Lima is a mix of old-school cafes, street culinary creativity at one of Lima’s elegant from across the seas. Cooking techniques and ingredients from the jungle and chicken or fish. On the street, meanwhile, vendors, elegant hotel restaurants and seafront restaurants, there’s a good anticuchos are king. Typically made dining halls selling set-lunch menús. chance you’ll discover your favorite dish especially the Andean have also shaped the city’s gastronomic using marinated beef heart, these grilled Downtown Lima is also home to the while sitting at a simple food stall in one and skewered sticks of meat represent barrio chino, or , where of Lima’s chaotic, sprawling markets. outlook. The highland influence led to the development of cocina novoandina the fusion of Spanish and African you can find inexpensive all-you-can- Lima itself was founded by the Spanish in the late 1980s, a new-Andean style heritage in one single, delicious snack. eat chifa , perfect for exploring conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535. The of cooking that found a home in the Sweet-toothed culinary travelers will find Lima’s Cantonese-inspired offerings. area was already inhabited by civilizations capital, where traditional ingredients traditional desserts sold pretty much Read on for detailed listings that had irrigated the valleys of the such as quinoa, kiwicha, alpaca meat and everywhere, both on the street and in and recommendations. coast. The influence of Spanish food was Andean potatoes were blended with inevitable, with conquistadors and colonists coastal Peruvian and even international

22 23 Culinary Experiences variety of foods that Peru has to offer but also to interact with some of the locals. “Lima with Zest” © - Culinary Class Ending the experience with a cooking With Chef Penelope Alzamora class guarantees that you will be able to continue enjoying the flavors of Peru long There’s no better way to get to know after you’ve gone home. As the class is in what Lima has to offer than Barranco, you’ll be able to stroll around to take a half or full day tour led by a top some of the area’s many art galleries chef. A country’s food is near and dear afterward – a great way to end the day. to the of all who live there, and starting out by visiting a local market is a great opportunity to see not only the LIMA L ima n Peru n Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary

Chef Penelope Alzamora slices up fresh fish for ceviche.

24 25 “Contemporary Criollo” © – An “What’s your tipple?” © The best in ANNUAL EVENTS Pisco Sour Day - First Saturday in February in Peruvian Gastronomy Lima’s Bars, Pubs and Bodegas The first Saturday in February marks If you’re interested in learning more about Take a half day tour before or after Chilcano Week - 2nd Week of January the celebration of the pisco sour, Peru’s what makes Peruvian food so special, visiting some of the best watering holes in Each January, around the second week national drink, when barmen all over the but aren’t motivated to take a cooking the capital city with an insider who knows of the month, Peru celebrates Chilcano country compete to see who makes the class, you might want to spend a few Lima’s nightlife. Starting in Miraflores, Week which, as of 2015, started creeping best cocktail. As with the chilcano, the hours at Saqra in Miraflores, one of the you’ll visit seven of the best bars in town up to being a 9 day event. The chilcano is traditional sour has been joined by many city’s most creative new restaurants. where your host, a veteran limeño a cocktail made with pisco and ginger ale, other varieties some of which are made by the addition of different fruit, such as the Here, you’ll have a fascinating owner himself, will recommend which with preference being given to a ginger popular maracuya sour (made with passion education on the special that are drinks are best in that locale as well as brew that is homemade. Although purists fruit) while others use as a base a pisco indicative of Peru, see how they are introduce you to some of the colorful say that is the only true chilcano, most that has been infused with something, such used in creating some of the world’s local characters that inhabit them. aficionados are not so fussy and this week as coca leaves, thus creating a coca sour. most delicious dishes, and, of course, sees the creation of all kinds of new drinks get to sample a full meal including Chorrillos Beach with the original being the base but but appetizer, main, dessert and drinks. If you’re up for a really local experience with a multitude of other flavors added. LIMA without the elegant ambiance of Lima’s Mistura - First week in September L ima “Urban Eats” © - Peruvian 5-star restaurants, head down to the beach Street Food Tour at Chorrillos. There, you will find a number First observed in 2007, Mistura is a true of little shacks serving up some of the celebration of the deserved recognition Explore the streets of Lima’s that Peruvian cuisine now enjoys neighborhoods with a local expert, seeking tastiest ceviche and fried seafood you can n Peru n find, washed down with a probably not throughout the world. Restaurants out huariques that offer simple, fresh come from all over the country– coast, and authentic Peruvian flavors. Sample ice cold beer. You’ll be rubbing shoulders with the regular folk of Lima, who may mountains, and jungle– to offer their most classic street food such as ceviche, causa popular dishes. Some of the best bars and anticuchos, and learn about the show up for an early fish , especially after a night out on the town. around will spotlight their top creations ingredients that go into these dishes. as well. Products that were sourced Barranco Food Fair throughout the vast of the “In Good Spirit” © – Learning country will also be on display. Although

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary About Peru’s National Liquor Another more local way of getting some the festival is wildly popular with Peruvians, Peru in Travel Culinary You’ll visit one of the best bars and typical fare is by grazing along the Taste each year has seen more and more visitors restaurants in Lima – Malabar – where of Barranco . Every weekend from all over the globe coming to learn you’ll find out just why pisco is Peru’s afternoon by the main plaza you can firsthand what the fuss is all about. pride and joy. Pisco is made from grapes choose from a variety of Lima’s more so it comes in varieties much like quintessential plates including main dishes does, although not nearly so many. as well as desserts and beverages. Depending on the single or blend used, the taste can vary greatly. As part of your educational experience, you’ll get to sample the finest Peruvian . This tour can take place any time during the year, and is done either before or after lunch, or before or after dinner.

26 27 28 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings Listings Gourme http://centralrestaurante.com.pe/en/ from 7:45pm to 11:45pm. 7:45pm to 11:15pm; Thursday-Saturday 3:15pm. Dinner: Monday-Wednesday from Lunch: Monday-Friday from 12:45pm to (01) 242-8515 /(01) 242-8575 Calle Santa Isabel 376, Miraflores world’s restaurants. 50best Pellegrino intheir annual of list the restaurantbest intheworld bySan In 2015 Central was listed as thefourth reservation. berequestedmust at thetimeof your are alsoavailable these and all over Peru. Two choices of tasting of tastes, usingnative ingredients from offers and anambitious worldly fusion Véliz.as Martinez Virgilio HisCentral to thework of master chefs here, such the world’s cuisine finest has to be due of Lima’sPart leap to theforefront of Central t Re sta urants -$$$ http://www.lagloriarestaurant.com/home.html Dinner from 8pm Open Monday–Saturday: Lunch from 1pm, (01) 445-5705 /446-6504 Calle Atahualpa 201, Miraflores seafood. for and connoisseurs of thequality its the more traditional of Lima’s gastronomic It’s known as thepreferred restaurant of Gloria features fineMediterranean cuisine. Well-established for La decades, some two Gloria La http://www.rafaelosterling.pe/ from 1pmto 3pmand from 8pmto12am. and from 8pmto 11pm; Thursday –Saturday Open Monday to Wednesday from 1pmto 3pm (01) 242-4149 300,Miraflores Calle San Martín ingredients found inPeru. chef, hiscuisinecombines and thefinest Restaurants.Best Rafael Osterling isasuperb appearing of on America’s thelist Latin 50 contemporary gourmet restaurants, regularly Rafael isone of examples thebest of Lima’s Rafael http://www.astridygaston.com/ 7pm to 12am; Sunday from 12pm to 5pm. open Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 4pm, 1pm to 3pm, 7:30 Barra pmto La 9:30pm. Restaurant open Tuesday to Saturday from Rest: (01) 442-2775; (01) Bar: 442-2774 Casa Moreyra, Av. Paz Soldán 290,San Isidro world bySanPellegrino in2015. Barra.called La Listed at number 14 inthe options isavailable inaseparate diningarea fine dining experience. Amenu of á la carte main restaurant, as much entertainment as a menu withmore than inthe 20courses a refurbished mansion has and atasting Peruvian highcuisine. new This venue isin Gaston Acurio, known as thepioneer of World-renowned restaurant of Chef yGastón Astrid Gourmet -$$$ Gourmet -$$$ Gourmet -$$$ http://malabar.com.pe/ 3:30pm and from 7pmto 11pm. Open Monday–Saturday from 12:30pm to (01) /440-5300 440-5200 Av. Camino Real 101, San Isidro popular.most contemporary thebarisone and of Lima’s days, menu atasting isavailable. Décoris withmany Lima restaurantsAs these areso thefreshest guaranteed. products Schiaffino. The menu isaseasonal one, rainforest bymaster chef Pedro Miguel emphasis on ingredients from the Creative fusion cuisinewithastrong Malabar www.amaz.com.pe to 4:30pm. 12:30pm to 12am; Sunday from 12:30pm to 11:30pm; Friday and Saturday from Open Monday-Thursday from 12:30pm (01) 221-9393/ (01) 221-9880 Av. Paz La 1079, Miraflores Known for itschorizo -drizzled . so does thebar’screative drink menu. food feature from products thejungle, Miguel Schiaffino. Not only does the restaurant from Malabar’s chef Pedro New, creative Amazonian barand ámaZ Amazonian -$$$ Gourmet -$$$ http://www.larosanautica.com/ Open Monday to Sunday from 12pm to 12am. (01) 445-0149 /447-0057 Espigón 4Circuito de Playas, Miraflores in thecity. comparison to other gourmet restaurants exceptional food, however, which pales in into thePacific ocean.Not noted for location on awooden pier juttingout restaurants, famous for itsspectacular ofOne Lima’s well-known most upscale Rosa Nautica La http://www.ivankisic.pe/ 3:30pm, 7:30pm to 11:30pm. 11pm; Fridays and Saturdays from 12:30pm to to Thursday from 12:30pm to 3pm, 7:30pm to Open Mondays from 7:30pm to 3pm;Tuesday (01) 652-1692 Calle Elías Aguirre 179, Miraflores also known for theextent of itswinemenu. available of 6,8or 10 items. restaurant The is themselves three and menus tasting are also presentation isas innovative as thedishes that isthelegacy of chef Ivan Kisic.The An exciting gourmet offering inLima I.. to 12am. Open daily from 12pm to 4pmand from 7pm (01) 445-4042 Miraflores General Borgoña cdra. 8,Huaca Pucllana earlier.) likely most times, from the4thcentury or pyramid of built mudbricks from pre-Inca night is alsoremarkable. Huaca (The isa remarkable, although seeing itlitup at of theHuaca from theopen terrace are for alate afternoon lunch as theviews Colombian Itisrecommended pieces. complex. décor iselegant, The withpre- tonext theHuaca Pucllana archaeological Delicious refined Peruvian cuisine right Huaca La Gourmet -$$$ Gourmet -$$$ Gourmet -$$

Listings 29 29 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima 30 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings Costanera 700 Sundays from 12.30pm to 5pm. 4pm, 8pmto 12am; Open Monday to Saturday from 12.30pm to (01) 619-9595 Garcia Garcia 175, Barranco well as avariety of cocktails . and pisco flavored with mascerated ingredients as walls. There isawell stocked barincluding outdoor seating contemporary and on the art the feel of insider aswish club, withcovered casual atmospherein asmart, in Barranco. Has Innovative typical seafood flourishes on dishes AmorAmar mercado. http://www.rafaelosterling.pe/es/el- Open Tuesday–Sunday from 12:30pm to 5pm. (01) 221-1322 Calle Hipólito Unanue 203,Miraflores found inLima. great to introduction thevariety of flavors influences. Apopular lunch spot a and withboth international local and styles favorites inavariety of different house El Mercado delicious criollo serves Another hitfrom top chef Rafael Osterling, El Mercado www.costanera700.com 12pm to 5pm. and 8pmto 11pm. Sundays and holidays from Open Monday–Saturday from 12pm to 5pm (01) 421-7508 /(01) 421-4635 Av. DelEjercito 421, Miraflores lunch. favorite for for Best culinary connoisseurs. romantic theexpensive meal.On a sideand the décor, making itanelegant spot for a flair of Asian extends .The selection to Japanese culinary touches including and a ofOne Lima’s fish finest restaurants with af oo Re

sta urants Seafood -$$$ Seafood -$$ Seafood -$$ seafood Sunday from 12pm to 6pm. Open Monday–Saturday from 12pm to 3am; (01) 252-9187 Espigón Circuito .2 de Playas, Barranco make areservation for aterrace table. even aprivate den. Really lovely at sunset– bemorecouldn’t romantic there’s and or drinks before or after dinner.The setting focus on seafood. Recommended for lunch featuring aPeruvian fusion menu, witha Fabulous settingright bytheocean Restaurant &Bar Cala www.lamarcebicheria.com/lima from 12pm to 5:30pm. 5pm; Friday, Saturday, Sunday and holidays Open Monday-Thursday from 12pm to (01) 421-3365 Av. Mar770, La Miraflores to avoid thelunchtime rush. touch. Itisrecommended to arrive early from Acurio’s theseaand own personal allwiththefreshestsoups, products tiraditosand tacu but tacu, and Acurio. Choose from not just Peru’s famous most chef, Gaston mentioning Mar, La thecreation of in Lima becomplete could without No discussion of seafood restaurants Mar La Seafood -$$

Seafood -$$ (01) 470-6217 Enrique León García 114, Victoria La Chez Wong Open daily from 12:30pm to 5pm. (01) 429-5279 /429-8453 Parque Galvez Punta, s/n, La Jr. General Valle, “Club Universitario Regatas”, in dishes withlenguado out towards SanLorenzo island. Specializes overlooking yachts inCallao harbour and seafoodRustic restaurant on awooden pier Rana VerdeLa Open every day from 12pm to 11pm. (01) 242-8960 Malecón Balta 790,Miraflores menu of Peruvian . A Miraflores classic, withan extensive Alfresco www.pescadoscapitales.com dinner; Sunday for lunch. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and Av. Mar1337, La Miraflores whereas pescado simplymeans“fish”). translates as “seven sins”inSpanish, the restaurant name -pecados capitales seven (Play capital sins. on words with Many dishes have names related to the Well-prepared, traditional seafood dishes. Pescados Capitales salty. salty. you canorder either souror sweetand menu of ceviche followed fry,which bystir neighborhood withasimple of Victoria, La (). Hisrestaurant istucked away inthe cevicheslicing up thebest from lenguado Chef Javier Wong isrenowned inPeru for (sole). (01) 421-8808 Seafood -$$ Seafood -$$ Seafood -$$ Ceviche -$

$ Every day from 11am to 6pm. Alfonso 225,Barranco Ugarte to enjoy aceviche withabeer inthesun. terracestreetside makes thistheidealplace with theyounger Barranco crowd. The popular ElMuelle ismost rice and dishes, seafood such as dishes, ceviche, chicharron anample Offering and variety of fish El Muelle http://www.restaurantsonia.com/ to 5pm (01) 249-6850 /(01) 2516693 Nº 173, Chorrillos Agustin Lozano Rosa La river or seacrayfish. Order chupe de camarones chupe or de Sonia her and fisherman husband, Freddy. great seafood, thejovial and presence of draws alunchtime crowd withlive music, In Lima’s Chorrillos neighborhood, Sonia Sonia and Mondays, 11am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday, 11am to 11pm; Sundays (01) 477 8934 Genova 101, Barranco the Argentinian owner withhisfriends. football memorabilia as well as photos of tuna. highwalls The are crammed with tiradito topped withavocado or cured be found withprawns, insquidink Innovationsoffers abundant portions. can range of Peruvian seafood classics and Canta Rana’s extensive menu covers a popular localrestaurants for 30years, Having been one of Barranco’s most Rana Canta La , adelicious seafood soup with (01) 252-8643 fromDaily 12pm Seafood -$$ Seafood -$ Seafood -$

Listings 31 31 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima 32 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings http://elcevichederonald.com/ Wednesday to Monday, 11:30 amto 4pm. Ignacio Merino 2427, Lince this asteal 15 at just soles. accompanied bychicharron depescado. All seasoning inceramic served plates and ceviche you inLima. canfind Perfect ceviche, bethebest itmight but just serves crampedThis just stall streetside El Ceviche Ronald de Tuesday to Sunday lunchtime Av. Angamos 886, queues at lunchtime.expect cash isaccepted. Very reasonable pricing, tostools setup next thestove only and attracted media attention. There are afew influence thequality and of the food has from themarket. There issome Japanese seafoodand freshly sourced each day handful of dishes staple made from fish Vastly popular a hole-in-the-wall, serving Al Toke Pez Hijo de de Hijo Monday to Saturday from 11:30am to 3pm. (01) 241-0941 Comandante Espinar 849,Miraflores local Limeños. afternoon isagreat way to minglewith astop and delicious, here during the platterThe of thethree combined is de calamar arroz and con mariscos. only three dishes; ceviche, chicharron eitheragainst wall, HijodeOlaya serves A holeinthewall withstools linedup laya (01) 222-2009 Seafood -$ Seafood -$ Ceviche -$ Fiesta ChiclayoFiesta Gourmet http://www.senoriodesulco.com/ 12am; Sunday from 12:30pm to 4:30pm. Open Monday–Saturday from 12:30pm to (01) 441-0183 /(01) 441-0389 Malecón Cisneros 1470, Miraflores menus. or three á differentbuffet, la carte tasting penned anumber of Offers . Alvarez, therestaurant’s owner, has atmosphere, popular withtourists. Isabel Traditional criollo Señorio Sulco de http://www.joseantonio.com.pe/ 10:30pm. from 12:30pm to 4:30pmand from 7:30pm to 4:30pm and from 7:30pm to 11:30pm; Sunday Open Monday–Saturday from 12:30pm to (01) 264-0188 /(01) 264-3284 Jr. Bernardo Monteagudo 200,San Isidro Spanish colonial atmosphere. place to tryoutsome classic fare ina Excellent at midday. served Great delicious traditionalserving favorites. A classic criollo Jose Antonio inicio-html.html http://www.restaurantfiestagourmet.com/ Saturday and Sunday from 12:30pm to 5pm. Open Monday–Friday from 12:30pm to 10pm; (01) 242-9009 Av. Reducto 1278, Miraflores seasoned rice). such as Arroz con Pato (duck withherb- a generous offering of norteño specialties into coast northern themainstream with Renowned for bringing cuisinefrom Peru’s Criollo Re sta food venue for limeños, urants food inabustling Criollo -$$$ Criollo -$$ Criollo -$$ http://www.picanteriasdelperu.com/ Open Tuesday–Sunday from 11am to 5pm. (01) 241-6676 Calle Francisco Moreno 388,Surquillo specials such as thecatch of theday. platesseat! Offers as á well la carte as daily clientele– you may have to for jostle a Market. withlunchtime It’sbustling frequented nearLima’s Surquillo bylocals, Gourmet, thisisamore casual spot, From thesameowners as Fiesta Chiclayo PicanteriaLa http://isolina.pe http://isolina.pe Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 12 midnight. Sundays and Mondays, 10am to 5pm; (01) 247-5075 Barranco Avenida Prolongacion 101, San Martín crunchy deep fried . people, with two it’sserved and only ceviche isshared between include Tapas withPejerrey, whilethe been prepared at home. Surprises dishes as theywould traditionally have recreates seasonal simpleand criollo ofseaside Barranco, resort thistavern Set inaconverted houseintheold Isolina Taberna Peruana Criollo -$$ Criollo -$$

and Saturdays from 8amto 3am. Sunday to Thursday from 8amto 1am;Fridays (01) 241-5953 Mariscal Oscar Benavides . 308,Miraflores .and potatoes of anassortment fruitjuices and frenchby tasty fries handcut from Andean la leña” (on awood stove), accompanied chicharrones or or pork cooked “a accompanied byvarious . Try the hot meat of alldescriptions Lucha, atspeciality La where you canget Traditional Peruvian sandwiches are the Lucha La fromDaily 1pmto 8pm. (01) 247-7133 Calle Nicolás de Piérola 232,Barranco friends. and oil to accompany with beers try either therabbit or fried in a setdishfor each day of theweek. Also on asetmenu at lunchtime, theyprepare feel. Specializes inhomemade criollo wooden benches tables and give acozy well intheneighborhood. established Long A family atmosphere, runjoint witharustic TostadoCafe http://www.elrinconquenoconoces.pe/ Tuesday to Sunday from 12pm to 5pm (01) 471-2171 Calle Bernardo Alcedo 363,Lince lunchtime spent here. policy willnot leave you wanting after a carapulcrasand theall-you-can-eat and contain of plentiful , secos servings arrayThe colorful buffet. of dishes is agreat example criollo of atypical the restaurant of thelate Teresa Izquerdo Legendary on theLima culinary scene, Conoces No Que El Rincón Criollo Sandwiches -$ Criollo -$$ Criollo -$ dishes

Listings 33 33 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima 34 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings Manifiesto http://laplazitalima.com/ 12:30pm to 5pm. Saturday from 12:30pm to 12am; Sunday from Open Monday from 7pmto 12am; Tuesday– (01) 621-0892 Nuñez de Miraflores Balboa), San Fernando 380(corner withAv. Vasco decentfull barand winelist. substantial dishes alsoavailable as well as a sandwiches. and Pastas more and terraza, great for acasual lunch with Mediterranean-style eatery withaleafy Plazita La Miraflores Larcomar, Malecón de la Reserva 610, tastes. appetisers main to and courses cater to all focus on Peruvian favorites -widerange of therecipes thename suggests, ocean. As the Larcomar mall withaview over the A contemporary gourmet restaurant in Popular 4pm. from 6:30pmto 12am; Sunday from 1pmto Open Monday-Saturday from 1pmto 4pmand (01) 249-5533 Independencia 130, Miraflores vegetarian options. tasty traditional Peruvian cuisine, including some sophisticated playful and interpretations of chefSpain, Giacomo Occhio offers world, such as ElCeller Roca deCan in some of thevery top restaurants inthe experienceWith gained from working in C as u al Re sta urants Casual Gourmet -$$ Casual Gourmet -$$ Gourmet -$$ http://www.restaurantela73.com/ Sundays from 12pm to 10pm. Open Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 12am; Av. ElSol Este 175, Barranco rotates regularly with seasonal options. seafood, meat and pasta themenu and an airycovered terrace area. Dishes include A well-frequented eatery inBarranco with LA73 http://www.matriarestaurante.com/ 4pm. and from 8pmto 11pm; Sundays from 1pmto Open Tuesday to Saturday from 1pmto 4pm (01) 422-2784 Calle General Mendiburu 823,Miraflores round outthemenu. yummy desserts Afewdishes. vegetarian dishes some and featuring seafood, , pastas meat and An informal Peruvian fusion option Matria http://www.cosme.com.pe/ 12am; Sundays from 12pm to 4pm. Open Monday to Saturday from 12pm to (01) 445-2734 Tudela yVarela 160, San Isidro vibehere. reflection of theartsy are usedthroughout thedecor, a plastic bottles recycled and materials ceiling isadorned with4,000recycled coming chef James Berckemeyer. The cocktails to match, created byup-and- with aninnovative Peruvian menu and trendyHip and new restaurant bar and Cosme

Casual Gourmet -$$ Casual Gourmet -$$ Casual Gourmet -$$ (01) 247-0780 Tuesday to Sunday, 9amto 11pm. (01) 445-5099 Armendáriz 546, Miraflores also acafe Piscobar. and as spacious seating areas tables and there is ceviches, tiraditos well anticuchos. and As Peruvian classics such as hot sandwiches, areas where you homemade canfind handicrafts,and itis split into different country. Decorated withPeruvian textiles fromgourmet products around the food market that offers a variety of An upscale Peruvian eatery speciality and Peru Pa’ Ti http://www.tantaperu.com/ to 12am. Saturday from 9amto 12am; Sunday from 9am Open Monday–Friday from 11am to 12am; (01) 447-8377 Av. 28de Julio 888,Miraflores; (01) 421-9708 Pancho Fierro 115, San Isidro; to satisfy desserts and your sweettooth. anabundance and of a localtwist European flavors. Traditional dishes with histeam.and Deliciousblend of localand A restaurant café and byGaston Acurio T’anta http://saqra.pe/ Friday and Saturday from 12pm to 1am. Open Monday–Thursday from 12pm to 12am; (01) 650-8884 Av. Paz Miraflores La 646, atmosphere. Try theBombitas for dessert. Fine diningina deliciousrelaxed effect. that plays withsurprising ingredients to well-presented Peruvian criollo Ideal for those lookingfor anauthentic, Saqra Gourmet food court -$$ Gourmet food court Casual Gourmet -$$ Casual Gourmet -$$ meal Symposium http://www.danica.pe/ 12am; Sundays from 12.30pm to 10pm. Open Monday to Saturday from 12.30pm to (01) 445-8743 /446-2135 Av. Armendáriz 524, Miraflores (01) 421-1891 /4225033 Av. Emilio Cavenecia 170, San Isidro authenticserves pizzas. salads. Also fish and pastas, carpaccios, Italian-Peruvian withtasty fusion, TrattoriaLa diMambrino 7:30pm to 11:30pm. and from 7:30pm to 11:30pm; Saturday from Open Monday–Friday from 12:30pm to 3:30pm (01) 221-3397 Calle Santa 122, Luisa San Isidro pastas . and classic . Fabulous choice of understated atmosphereA smart, with Danica http://www.latrattoriadimambrino.com/ 12am. Open daily from 1pmto 4pmand from 7pmto (01) 447-5941 Larcomar Av. Malecón de la Reserva 610, Int. 102, C.C. (01) 446-7002 Calle Manuel Bonilla 106, Miraflores excellent view of theocean. is alsoalocation inLarcomar withan room for There theawesome desserts. particular, you’ll want to besure you leave bruschettas, salads much and more. In location inMiraflores. pizzas, Good pastas, Charming bistro inacentral quiet but Italian Re sta urants Italian -$$ Italian -$$ Italian -$$

Listings 35 35 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima 36 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings http://edosushibar.com/ 10:30pm; Sundays, 1:30pmto 3:30pm. Monday to Saturday, 12:30 pmto 3pm, 7pm to (01) 243-2448 Calle 601, Miraflores chain has other branches around thecity. dishes withfresh avocado or . The acevichado, , or anyof the number of Peruvian takes on sushi.Try the combinations complemented bya Edo mixes itup withtraditional Japanese A safe betifyou’re lookingfor sushi, N apane do http://www.maido.pe/en/ from 12:30pm to 4pm. 4pm and from 7:30pm to 11pm; Sunday Open Monday–Saturday from 12:30pm to (01) 446-2512 399,Miraflores Calle San Martín 2015. oflist theworld’s restaurants best in onListed SanPellegrino’s at number 44 desired. Definitely ameal to remember. menu which caninclude paired drinks if house isthe15 fusion tasting course a refined atmosphere. A special of the food, Peruvian-Japanese and fusion in variety of sushi,traditional Japanese Stylish anexcellent venue serving Maido ikkei Re se Fu sta si urants o n ) (Per Nikkei / Sushi-$$$ Nikkei / Sushi-$$ uvian - http://osaka.com.pe/ and from 7:30pm to 11:30pm. Open Monday–Saturday from 12:30pm to 4pm (01) 222-0405 Calle Conquistadores 999,San Isidro Creative cocktail menu. menu of other Japanese-inspired plates. Besides sushi,there isaceviche a barand dishes inatrendy sophisticated and setting. an excellent of Japanese selection fusion Delicious sushiwithaPeruvian and twist O http://www.matsueiperu.com.pe/ and from 7:30pm to 11pm. Open Monday–Saturday from 12:30pm to 4pm (01) 422-4323/(01) 442-8561 Calle Manuel Bañon 260,San Isidro also private salons for up to eight people. vegetables, chicken, beef or pork. There are are dishes that Japanese-style feature predominantly seafood oriented, there other and house specialty plates are Although sushiisdefinitelyyears. the worldand travelers for more than 35 sushi barhas been afavorite of locals Lima’s famous standing most longest and Matsuei saka Nikkei / Sushi-$$ Nikkei /Sushi-$$ Salon Sum from 9amto 12:30pm). 12am; Sunday from 9:00amto 10:30pm (Dim Open Monday–Saturday from 12:30pm to (01) 422-9547 /(01) 421-0184 Av. Prescott 231, San Isidro breakfast on Sunday mornings. for those wholike to dance. DimSum orchestra on Thursday nights after 8:30pm options witha weekly á Buffet and la carte Delicious Chinese food withaPeruvian flair. Restaurante Royal http://www.saloncapon.com/ Sunday from 9amto 8pm. Open Monday–Saturday from 9amto 11pm; (01) 426-9286 Jr. Paruro 819, ElCercado, Central Lima so you canhave DimSumfor breakfast. ofQuarter) Lima. It’sopen inthemorning A great choice intheBarrio Chino (Chinese Chine Chifa http://www.chifatiti.com 1pm to 3:30pmand from 7pmto 9pm. and from 7pm to 10:45pm; Sunday from Open Tuesday–Saturday from 1pmto 3pm (01) 224-8189/224-8304 Av. Javier Prado Este 1212, San Isidro befits a restaurant inSan Isidro. ambiance isupscale elegant, and as ChanWilliam in1959. Lau The byChineseestablished immigrant chifaBest restaurant inLima, Titi Re se Fu sta si urants o n ) (Per uvian Chifa -$$ Chifa -$$ Chifa -$$ - O La CuadraLa Salvador de 10am to 3pm. Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 8pm;Sundays, Calle Tahiti 175, Molina La special reservation ahead of time. food iseaten byhand. You’ll have to make a at these soirees isforbidden, the and byGaribaldi overperfection anopen flame. feast of different styles of meat cooked to block table inhiskitchen to revel ina special invitees. Partakers sitaround a of-mouth held for friends and meats. Legendary have become hisword- to cutsof usingassorted cured aged and for himself withhisexperimental approach Renzo Garibaldi has made aname La Cabrera Peru La http://www.lacuadradesalvador.com/ 8pm to 11pm. Open daily from 12:30pm to 4pmand from Calle Centenario 105, Barranco (01) 247-8670 available, inarestored antique mansion. outdoor setting.Indoor seating isalso other grilled meats are inabeautiful served the tables here. Tasty and burgers, , Angusbeef thefinest Only makes its way to http://lacabreraperu.com/ from 12pm to 6pm. Friday and Saturday from 12pm to 1am;Sunday Open Monday–Thursday from 12pm to 12am; (01) 252-8125 Av. Miguel Grau 1502, Barranco awaitlist you. as well as lamb, pork anextensive and wine great taste to cutsof Lima. best beef, The out inArgentina now and brings that same a franchise of therestaurant that started right, it’sgrilled Cabrera meat. La Peru is If there’s one thingthe Argentines do S te sso akh

se s Steak /Butcher -$$$ (01) 368-1046 Steak - $$$ Steak -$$$

Listings 37 37 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima 38 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings 10am to 10pm. 7pm to 10:30pm. and shop open from Open Monday to Friday from 1pmto 3:30pm, (01) 243-0474 Calle Recavarren 298,Miraflores friendly. Many -free options on organic localproduce. and Vegan- witharefined menuthe city, entirely based Stands vegetarian outamongst options in El AlmaZen Organic http://www.labalanza.pe/ to 11:30pm. Open Monday to Saturday from 12:30pm (01) 222-2659 Av. Emilio Cavenecia 162, San Isidro. produce from responsible suppliers. they alsousepasture-raised beef and from therestaurant’s own , while the menu even features ingredients as being option, atrulysustainable international Making aname styles. traditional Peruvian techniques with incorporating fusing and Fresh healthy and organic cuisine La Balanza Cantina Balanza Cantina La & Ve e tarian Sustainable -$$ Sustainable Re Vegetarian -$$ sta urants http://www.quinoa.com.pe/ Open Monday to Friday from 7amto 7pm. (01) 221-3459 Av. Pardo yAliaga San 664, Isidro Saturdays from 8amto 5pm. Open Monday to Friday from 8amto 7pm; (01) 717-3927 ValdiviaDean 137, San Isidro Isidro. nutritious . Two locations inSan using natural Peruvian ingredients and sandwiches, wraps, salads, more, and Vegetarian restaurant withavariety of Quinoa http://www.veggiepizza.pe/ 11pm; Sunday from 1pmto 4pm. Saturday from 1pmto 4pmand from 8pmto Open Monday from 8pmto 11pm; Tuesday– (01) 282-0524 Miraflores Jr. Colina 112, Barranco; Santa Cruz825, there early as itwillfill up. pe) soifyou don’t have aconfirmation,get are done byemail (reservas@veggiepizza. limeños from allover Reservations thecity. make nuts, and thisplace afavorite with toppings, some quite such as fruit eclectic allvegetarian and Whole crust Veggie Vegetarian -$$ Vegetarian -$$ Arabica E http://www.pasteleriasanantonio.com/ Friday and Saturday from 7amto 12am. Open Sunday–Thursday from 7am to 11pm; (01) 626-1313 Av. Vasco Nuñez de 770, Balboa Miraflores baked and goods. gourmet sandwiches salads, delicious and A casual restaurant and featuring San Antonio http://www.restaurantelabonbonniere.com/ Sunday from 8amto 9pm. Open Tuesday–Saturday from 8amto 11pm; Calle Burgos 415, San Isidro substantial choices are available as well. and Moredesserts, drinks. A traditional for breakfast, café, perfect Bonbonniere La www.cafeverdeperu.com 9am to 9pm Monday to Friday, 7amto 9am;Saturdays, 1305 Santa Cruz, Miraflores in Miraflores. otherand on corner aquietstreet sweets, Excellent coffee quality along withcakes VerdeCafe http://www.cafebisetti.com/ to 11pm; Sundays from 2pmto 9pm. Fridays from 8amto 11pm; Saturdays from 9am Monday to Thursday from 8amto 10pm; (01) 715-2153 /715-2152 Calle Recavarren 269,Miraflores withmaracuya (passion fruit). isterrific, trythewhite coffee growing regions of Peru.The home linkto adirect built farmers indifferent interesting reading matter. Arabica has furnitutre, bookshelveswith stylish full of Lima. Setin anarrow terrace, appointed Started thetrend of espresso in bars C afe s spresso Bar (01) 222-1156 (01) 652-7682 Cafe -$ Cafe -$ Cafe -$ Cafe -$ http://labodegaverde.blogspot.com/ Open daily 8amto 10pm. Jr. Sucre Barranco 335A, ingredients. coffee.and healthyUses highquality, delicious breakfasts, light , teas Verde isagreat place to stop byfor A real neighborhood café, Bodega La Verde Bodega La http://www.cafebisetti.com/ to 11pm; Sundays from 2pmto 9pm. Fridays from 8amto 11pm; Saturdays from 9am Monday to Thursday from 8amto 10pm; (01) 713-9565 /713-9566 Av. Pedro de Osma 116, Barranco quiet back . theyhave and extremely tasty, tables ina are also and The desserts teas. cafe offeringmodern stylish and quality From theowners of Arabica, thisisa Tostaduria Bisetti O 10pm. Saturdays and Sundays from 10am to Tuesday to Friday from 8amto 10pm; (01) 261-8280 Av. 1199, Bolívar Pueblo Libre for a real treat. Try theCoffeeSour orthe icedmocha the aeropress dripped and Icecoffee. thebeverage. Favorites include of Peru, theyhave 8different ways of sourced from farmers indifferent parts only do theyshowcase coffee directly A hidden treasure of acoffee shop. Not rigen: Tostadoresrigen: Cafe de (01) 247-8804 Cafe -$ Cafe -$ Cafe -$

Listings 39 39 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima 40 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings and avocado.and including uncommon flavors such as chilli Market, they have and delicious icecream be found inthepromenade at theSurquillo traditionalThis Italian icecream place can Fiorentina La http://www.lapanadera.pe/ Sundays and Mondays from 10am to 4pm. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 9amto 8pm; (01) 738-2361 Jirón Alfonso 141, Ugarte Barranco of Peruvianselection products. .well as tasty Italsostocks a , other and baked as goods, Barranco back bakingdelicious street, A tinyestablishment tucked away on a PanaderaLa Pan laChola de Sundays, 9amto 6pm. Tuesday to Saturday, 8amto 10pm; Av. Mar918 La Miraflores,Lima, Peru of teas, desserts. and also great coffee along withaselection on bread. There is agreatbut place to stop for atasty itself not only as anexcellent bakery, Panthe city, dela Chola has established Dedicated to bread bakingthefinest in Ice -$ Bakery -$ Bakery -$ Paseo de la Republica ,Block 53 elsewhere. that products specialty areand hard to find spices vegetables, , meats, fruits, No. 1isagreat place to gooddealson get infinitely lower key, theMercado Surquillo Not as as big theMercado Central and No. 1 Surquillo Mercado Jr. Ucayali at 640 Jr. , Central Lima their phones at home. money away someplace safe leave and thatbear inmind even localswilltuck their it isanabsolutely fascinating place to visit, thoseand usedinnatural healing.While seafood,meats, cheeses, herbs for cooking Here, you vegetables, fruits, willfind Central supplies allyour cookingneeds. largest marketThe inLima, theMercado CentralMercado Calle Miguel Dasso, San Isidro sell fresh organic products. another market where producers gather to SundaysOn from 8.30amto thisis 1pm, E Reducto) Calle 15 de Enero, Miraflores (behind Parque Europe. than farmers’ markets America or inNorth make it.Less itmore pricey than worth vegetables, snacksbreads, cheeses, fruits, higher ofa bit thequality but thehealthier by theproducers themselves. prices The are to anopen airorganic market, organized Parque Reducto 2inMiraflores plays host Every Saturday from 8amto 2:30pm, Miraflores of Bioferia Marke coMarket San Isidro ts Antigua Taberna Queirolo http://antiguatabernaqueirolo.com/ 12am; Sundays, 9:30amto 4pm. 11:30pm; Thursday to Saturday from 9:30amto Monday to Wednesday from 9:30amto (01) 460-0441 Av. 1090 San Martín Pueblo Libre olives are thepopular barsnack. cheese and sandwiches withchilli and so that your you own canconcoct drinks. along withice, slicedlimes and will provide abottle of thehousepisco for around of or beers bar chilcanos. The Locals hitthistavern after work on a Friday B ars http://www.elpisquerito.com/index.html 1am. Open Monday to Saturday from 7pmto (01) 462-7471 Av. 1340, San Martin Pueblo Libre chilcanos made withfresh ginger. Pisco connoisseur) Hans Hilburg. Try the renowned published (and bartender Pisco cocktail barintown, fronted by Probably inventive most and thebest El Pisquerito , T averns & Penas Traditional Bodega Bar http://www.piscobar.pe/ 4pm. from 6:30pmto 1:30am;Sunday from 12pm to Open Tuesday–Saturday from 12pm to 4pmand (01) 241-1944 Av. Petit 5390,Miraflores Thouars about Peru’s national liquor. to stop offbut learn sample not and just exquisite menu make thisagreat place variety of asmall and but sipping piscos, Excellent ahand pisco cocktails, selected Pisco Bar http://saqra.pe/ Friday and Saturday from 12pm to 1am. Open Monday–Thursday from 12pm to 12am; (01) 650-8884 Av. Paz Miraflores La 646, like alemonade for adults. frozen hierba (lemongrass) luisa chilcano – terrace on awarm afternoon and enjoy a cool atmosphere great and food. Siton the ofExcellent piscococktails selection witha Saqra http://www.larosanautica.com/ Open daily from 12pm to 12am. (01) 445-0149 Espigon 4Circuito de Playas, Miraflores bar on apier off the Malecón de la Reserva. Enjoy drinks overlooking theoceanat this Rosa Nautica La http://www.lagloriarestaurant.com/ 1pm, During dinner from 8pm. Open Monday–Saturday: During lunch from (01) 446-6504 Calle Atahualpa 201, Miraflores sours. A Lima classic featuring excellent pisco Gloria La Bar Bar Bar Bar

Listings 41 41 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima 42 Culinary Travel In Peru LIMA Listings Saturday from 12pm to 4am. Open Monday–Friday from 12pm to 2am; (01) 422-6362 Calle Pancho Fierro 109, San Isidro menu. excellent drinks as well as afulldining A traditional Peruvian café barwith and O http://huaringas.com/ Saturday from 7pmto 2:30am. Thursday from 7pmto 1am;Friday and Open Monday from 7pmto 12am; Tuesday– (01) 222-2147 Ovalo Bolognesi 460,Miraflores Tastysours. light fare idealfor sharing. coca leafchilcanos passion and fruitpisco cocktails made withtheir infusedpiscos like among limeños. Recommended for Nice barwithacozy lounge, popular Huaringas Bar El Bolivarcito http://www.elbolivarcitoperu.com/ 427-2788 Jiron de la Union Nro. 926,Lima are standard amplefare. and here, theaccompanying but platters You might not want to plan to eat favorites canbefound on themenu. quite whilealltheother apunch, Catedralcalled “La del Pisco” -packs house cocktail -adouble Piscosour Square.Bolivar on SanMartin The barof thefamous bustling The Hotel le Bar le Traditional Bodega Bar Bar http://ayahuascarestobar.com/ Open Monday–Saturday from 8pm-3am. 981-044-745 Av. 130, Prolongación San Martín Barranco cocktails. range of other and delicious piscosours atmosphericand anextensive barserves Set inarefurbished mansion, thisstylish Ayahuasca Open Tuesday–Saturday from 7pmto 3am. (01) 247-2180 Av. Pedro de Osma 135, Barranco beverages. Spacious outdoor seating area. cocktails other and neighborhood serving Trendy barintheBarranco stylish and Bar Victoria http://hotelb.pe/dining-and-bar 2:30am. 12:30am; Thursday–Saturday from 12pm to Open Sunday–Wednesday from 12pm to Sáenz Peña 204, Barranco as close as possible. the Great , thevibehere you willget wished you have could had acocktail with gorgeously restored mansion. Ifyou ever hotel’s to barjust aglimpse of get the popping infor adrinkIt’s worth at this Hotel B english-bar/ http://www.hotelcountry.com/dinning/ Open daily from 12pm to 1am. (01) 611-9000 Los Eucaliptos 590,San Isidro fare mixed drinks. expertly and pubfeatures English-style This enticing light Country ClubLimaBar Inglés (01) 206-0800 Bar Bar Bar Bar http://www.barrancobeer.com/ Fridays and Saturdays, 12pm to 3am. Sunday to Thursday, 12pm to 12am; 247-6211 Av. Almte. Miguel Grau, Barranco with the18-24 crowd. yearold appointments swish and very and popular sandwiches or other barsnacks. Modern good, accompanied bypizzas, the bar. different The styles of beer are see thebrewing tanks whilesittingat are glass big panels sothat you can road from Barranco’s main square, there an unmissable wooden exterior up the A barwithonsite brewery, with and Barranco Company Beer http://www.brewpubwicks.com/ bar except for Fri and Sat). from 1pmto 11pm. ( not open as late as Friday and Saturday from 3pmto 2am;Sunday Open Wednesday–Thursday from 4pmto 1am; (01) 247-4507 Av. Pedro de Osma 201a, Barranco pubfare.and frombeers Peru abroad. and Live music on of site bottled aselection craft and brewpub withcraftEnglish-style ales made Wick’s http://sibarisperu.com/ 7pm to 2am. 11pm; Fridays and Saturdays, 12pm to 4pm, Tuesday to Thursday, 12pm to 4pm, 7pmto (01) 247-0263 Jr. 28de Julio 206-B,Barranco barfood.tasty craft beers to cater for alltastes along with square inBarranco, there are cocktails and A sleaknew barone block from themain Sibaris Brewpub Brewpub Restobar http://www.ladamajuana.com.pe/ 248-7547 Av. República de 230,Barranco ladamajuana.com.pe. forCall reservations or email informes@ the dinner beginning buffet at 7:30pm. shows beginningat 8:30pmdaily, with Damatourists, La Juana has 90minute ofOne popular themost peñas with Dama Juana La www.lacalendariaperu.com 247-1314 Av. Bolognesi 292,Barranco drinks are ala carte. (Wong/Metro) or at thedoor. Food and Tickets canbepurchased through Teleticket 10:30pm cater for tourists localsalike. and Shows on Friday Saturday and nights at Candelaria La Sunday from 12pm to 12am. Open Monday–Saturday from 11am to 2:30am; Av. Almirante Miguel Grau 270, Barranco simple sandwiches. Very casual, cash only. spot pitchers of serves Peruvian beer and since 1937. Alocalfavorite, thisno-frills history, having been intheneighborhood barisknown for iconic bodega-style This its Juanito Barranco de Traditional Bodega Peña Peña

Listings 43 43 Culinary Travel in Peru Lima ighlands Cusco & The ighlands o & The The & o H The & o c c Cus Highlands Cus n Peru n Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary

A on the trek near the in Cusco

44 45 ighlands ighlands

Quinoa cultivation at Andahuaylas o & The H The & o H The & o c c Cus Cus

Cusco & The Highlands two large domesticated -- the freeze-dried potato). Chairo is particularly dish found in Ayacucho, and cuchicanca, llama and alpaca. Much of this meat, popular in Cusco, Puno and Arequipa. a style of roast pork cooked in ,

n Peru n History permeates the cuisine of the meanwhile, was reserved for the nobility garlic and aji mirasol (a type of sun- Peruvian highlands, a region with a Perhaps the most emblematic dish of the or for marching soldiers. The latter were central highlands is pachamanca, a mix dried pepper). The city of Arequipa greater variety of ingredients and supplied with dried and salted llama also has distinct variations of dishes dishes than any other part of Peru. of meat, vegetables and other Andean meat called ch’arki, the etymological ingredients cooked in an earthen oven. The found in the highlands, as well as its The Peruvian nation’s indigenous heritage origin of the modern word “jerky.” preparation and cooking of a traditional own unique styles (see chapter on exists most strongly in the chilly heights Meat is far more common in the modern pachamanca often involves entire families “Arequipa and the South Coast”). of the Andean highlands, from Cusco, highland diet, but the sheer diversity of or even communities. Cities famous for is a with the former Inca capital, to Huánuco

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary food on offer is largely due to the Inca’s their pachamancas include Huánuco, ceremonial origins dating back thousands Peru in Travel Culinary and in the north, and to agrarian prowess. Peru’s wealth of potato and Ayacucho. Another iconic of years. It is traditionally prepared by Puno, and Arequipa in varieties is well known, but other Andean dish is cuy, or . And firstly germinating choclo () before the south. Here you’ll find traditional also play a major role. The Andean kitchen while some foreign travelers shy away extracting the , recipes and cooking methods dating includes a plethora of tubers, roots, grains, from cuy, the high protein, low fat, low the wort and fermenting for several back to pre-Columbian times, many of beans and peppers, including choclo cholesterol rodent is hugely popular days in a large earthenware which remain largely unchanged despite (Peruvian corn), oca, olluco, aji amarillo, in highland Peru, where it is baked or called a chomba. The drink is popular centuries of colonialism and repeated quinoa and maca, to name just a few. grilled and served whole. Alpaca steaks, in the southern Peruvian Andes, and a waves of Old World influences. Warming soups are ever-present in the high meanwhile, provide an interesting number of make their own The Inca themselves were master altitudes. There are traditional -based and healthier alternative to beef. chicha de jora to sell. These unlicensed agriculturists, successfully adopting and soups like kapchi and lawa, wheat soups Some Andean main courses are establishments, known as chicherias, cultivating a wide range of food crops that like llunca cashqui, and thick meat characteristic of certain regions. These are generally identified by a pole were vital to their survival and expansion. such as chairo, which includes everything include puka picante, a pork and potato adorned with a red flag, red flowers, The Inca had no or cows, only from beef to beans and chuño (a type of ribbons or even a red plastic bag.

46 47 Culinary Experiences Cusco Cooking Class Alfresco Picnic There’s no better way to learn about This specially organized picnic takes “Roots of the Valley” © - a country’s cuisine than by cooking gourmet dining to the great outdoors Organic Farm Tour with an expert chef! Held at a specially and is a wonderful way to have lunch designed cooking demo center right off in between visiting archeaological sites. Visiting a farm that adopts organic and the main plaza of Cusco, this class starts The picnic can be held in a number sustainable practices is not only a great out with an interactive lesson about of places, including at Sacsayhuaman way of learning about the diversity of the Peruvian products and a fresh produce near Cusco, or at either Pisaq or abundant Sacred Valley, but eating a meal tasting. You’ll then head to the kitchen archeological sites in the Sacred Valley, partially sourced from that very farm’s ighlands to get firsthand experience cooking two where you can also have a guided visit. ighlands produce is a truly rewarding (and delicious) traditional Peruvian dishes - causa and The lunch is prepared by the highly- way of connecting to this beautiful lomo saltado - with the chance to partake regarded and experienced Cicciolina destination. The charming El Albergue in a pisco tasting and cocktail lesson in restaurant in Cusco. Staff travel in advance

o & The H The & o de hotel has established between. Private classes are held in the H The & o

c to the site to prepare a private table, c its own organic farm in the midst of Inca morning, while you can join a group in sparkling dinnerware, and delectable terracing, offering breathtaking views Cus the afternoon. All of the dishes can be meal before greeting you upon arrival. Cus towards the snow-capped peaks of mount prepared vegetarian or vegan and can Veronica and the Ollantaytambo ruins. meal of meats, potatoes and vegetables accommodate any dietary restrictions. Not only can you enjoy a guided tour of cooked in an earthen oven with wood- the farm, which grows an assortment of fired stones - or a three course menu “Choco Loco” © - Interactive made with organic ingredients, the n Peru n vegetables such as potatoes, corn and Chocolate Workshop majority of which are sourced from the quinoa to be used in the hotel restaurant, Journey to the of chocolate at the you can also sample the local produce, farm or from other local producers. Chocolate Museum in Cusco. The museum’s either with a Pachamanca - a traditional expert chocolatiers will teach you all about the origin of the cocoa plant, its through the Americas and across the world. You can also learn about the current production process used to make chocolate

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary treats in Cusco and get your a little Peru in Travel Culinary messy while you mold your very own . An ideal way for families (or chocolate-loving grownups) to spend a couple of hours after lunch.

Preparing a Pachamanca at the Albergue’s farm in Ollantaytambo

48 49 50 Culinary Travel In Peru Cusco & The Highlands Listings MAP Cafe por-coque-ossio/ http://www.cuscorestaurants.com/map-cafe- 11:00amDaily: to 9:00pm(last dinner seating) (084) 242-476 Plazoleta Nazarenas 231 desserts. choice among appetizers, mains and setting. Dinner isprix-fixe only, witha Cusco favorite, withanelegant courtyard Museum of (MAP).A PreColumbian Art Contemporary cuisineinthe Andean -Cusco Listings Re www.cicciolinacuzco.com/ 3:00pm; 6:00pmto 10:00pm 8:00amtoDaily: 11:00am; 12:00pm to (084) 239-510 Calle Triunfo N393,2nd floor Reservations are essential. atmosphere isupscale romantic. and of winewithyour The mealisa must. area. Great place to goifanicebottle flair; tapas available only inthebar Mediterranean cuisinewithanAndean experience inCusco. Features delicious Probably overall thebest dining Cicciolina sta urants Fine Dining-$$$ Fine Dining-$$$ pachapapa/ http://www.cuscorestaurants.com/ 11:00amDaily: to 11:00pm (084) 241-318 Plazoleta San Blas 120 24 notice. hours’ bereserved(guinea pig),which with must for . Alsogood place to trycuy Best great outdoors inaleafycourtyard. oven-baked pizzas. Casual settingwith restaurant offers excellent and Located right on SanBlas Square, this Pachapapa home http://www.restaurantelesoleilcusco.com/ 12:30pm to 3:00pm;7:00pm to 10:30pm Monday-Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday: (084) 240-543 Calle San Agustin 275 courses. or choose menu atasting of either 5or 7 the glass inthewinebar. Dineala carte so are allthewines which are available by food authentically French fabulous, and happens to beFrench. Not only isthe ofOne restaurants thebest intown just Le Soleil http://www.cuscorestaurants.com/inkagrill/ 11:00amDaily: to 11:00pm (084) 262-992 de PanesPortal 115 ifyou’re noisy Abit meals. after a chat. Peruvian dancing musicand withyour one of theplaces to enjoy traditional its delicious Peruvian food for but being de Armas), Inka Grill isnot only known for Located right on themain square (Plaza Inka Grill Fine Dining-$$$ Peruvian -$$ Peruvian -$$ cusco/restaurants-in-cusco http://www.belmond.com/hotel-monasterio- 6:00pmtoDaily: 10:30pm (084) 604-000 Calle Palacios 136, Plazoleta Nazarenas the restaurant features opera singers. staying at thehotel. Four nights aweek, in theopulent atmosphere ifyou’re not Monasterio. to Great take opportunity of hotels, oldest Cusco’s5-star and the Excellent cuisineinone of thefinest El Tupay (Monasterio) organics/ http://www.cuscorestaurants.com/greens- 9:00amtoDaily: 11:00pm (084) 254-753 Santa Catalina Angosta 135, 2nd Fl. organic beer wine. and everythingand Alsooffers inbetween. ranges from salads to tasty alpaca steaks organic ingredients. Food isdelicious and knownParticularly for itsuseof local O Greens home.html www.cicciolinacuzco.com/english/baco_ 3:30pmtoDaily: 10:30pm (084) 239-510 Calle Ruinas 465 without sacrificing quality. place for acasualthis aperfect night out along withgreat food finewine and make A low-key atmosphere vaulted and ceilings, Baco rganic

Peruvian Fusion -$$ Fine Dining-$$$ Bistro -$$$ www.cuzcodining.com/marcelo-batata.htm 12:30pmDaily: to 11:00pm (084) 222-424 Calle Palacio 121, 2nd floor drink. offers agreat place for apre-dinner especially with therooftop terrace which it’s agoodchoice for aromantic dinner Atmosphere isfriendly upscale but and Also agreat place for piscococktails. Especially known for itsalpaca steaks. this one happens to beone of thebest. restaurants offer Peruvianbut fusion, Many more of upscale thecity’s Batata Marcelo http://www.cuscorestaurants.com/limo/ 12:00pmDaily: to 9:00pm (084) 240-668 de CarnesPortal 236,2nd Fl. pisco drinks. also one of spots thebest intown for main square. Great for lunch or dinner; of thetables that allows aview of the essential, especially for snagging one particular, sushi.Reservations are in menu infishand, aspecialty but ofOne intown, the best withabroad LIM O

Peruvian Fusion -$$ Fine Dining-$$

Listings 51 51 Culinary Travel in Peru Cusco & The Highlands 52 Culinary Travel In Peru Cusco & The Highlands Listings http://www.papachos.com/ 12:00pmDaily: to 12:00am (084) 245-359 de BelenPortal 115, 2nd fl. much like bar. asports fancies aburger. Atmosphere iscasual, to gohere ifnot everyone inthegroup There are several other choices soit’ssafe menu; allcanbemade vegetarian as well. There are some 16 different options on the chef, Gaston Acurio, has envisioned them. areThese as burgers Peru’s famous most Papachos www.cuzcodining.com/uchu.htm 12:30pmDaily: to 11:00pm (084) 246-598 Calle Palacio 135 atmosphere. it to your taste. Upscale relaxed and a heated volcanic stone soyou cancook chicken,and brought to your table with alpaca asand steaks, well as seafood choices. Uchuthe best specializes inbeef If you want to tryalpaca, thisisone of U http://www.cuscorestaurants.com/incanto/ 11:30amDaily: to 11:00pm (084) 254-753 Santa Catalina Angosta 135, 2nd Fl. for both lunch dinner. and in acontemporary setting.Recommended Delicious Italian food withaPeruvian twist Incanto chu

Steakhouse -$$ Fine Dining-$$ Burgers -$ Monday-Saturday: 6:00pmto 11:00pm (084) 255-475 Calle Palacio 110 drinks. Beverages include wine, beer, water or soft unlike many up. places, thisisalltheyserve ofOne thebetter pizzerias intown and, Justina 6:00pmtoDaily: 11:00pm (084) 242-075 Saphy 554 Finish off withahomemade limoncello. meat cheese and plates, . and the ambiance. Alsoon offer are , delicous Italian as you wait enjoy and at atime. isaplace This to linger over the oven, withroom to cookonly one pizza ingredients. localeissmall, as The isthe withthefreshest in theItalian style, pizza best The inCusco. thincrust Cantina La Monday-Saturday: 6:00pmto 10:00pm (084) 260-272 Herrajes 138 upscale. craft beers make thisplacebit more a of wines and salads. Aniceselection where theyalsooffer soups pastas, and pizza, you canhead to Bodega La If you want more atasty than just 138 Bodega La Pizza -$ Pizza -$$ Pizza -$ http://www.cuscokintaro.com/en/ to 10:00pm Monday-Saturday: 12:00pm to 3:00pm; 6:00pm (084) 260-638 Calle Plateros 334, 2nd Fl. the experience. ambiance. tea and complete , more sushi and inalovely Authentic Japanese , soups, Kintaro crepes/ http://www.labohemecusco.com/es/ 4:00pmtoDaily: 9:45pm (084) 235-684 Carmen Alto 260 bite not but for afancy dinner. early isbetter. Recommended for aquick relaxed. on It’salsoabit thesmall size so Ambiancesweet options. isvery casual and Creperie withawiderange of savory and Boheme La Monday-Saturday: 6:00pmto 10:00pm (084) 132-032 Tandopata 917 reasonablyyummy and priced. and are filling, up to thetest. , , , Mexican food, thisplace stands but actually You’ll seelots of restaurants hawking Tacomania Monday-Saturday: 6:00pmto 10:00pm (084) 233-023 Tandopata 909 of alpaca. style Greatspicyness. place to tryamore unique appetizers mains and at different levels of Sutra isowned runbyaBrit. and Delicious place best forThe inCusco, Korma Sutra International/Japanese -$ International/Mexican -$ International/French -$ International/Indian -$ com/ http://www.greenpointveganrestaurant. 8:00amtoDaily: 10:00pm (084) 431-086 Calle Carmen Bajo 235 can safely eat everything on themenu. one vegans, and ofand thefew where you of spots thebest intowns for vegetarians extremely casual,This laid-back place isone PointGreen 12:30pm to 3:00pm;7:00pm to 10:30pm Monday-Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday: (084) 246-502 Calle San Agustin 275 tea, beer sake. and from touring. Alsooffers Japanese delicious quick bite as you’re takingaquick only (Japanese noodlesoup) it’sa but udon restaurant now The but itis. offers Cusco as theplace for authentic Japanese You probably wouldn’t have thought of Bojosan wordpress/ http://www.fallenangelincusco.com/ Sunday: 3:00pmto 11:00pm Monday-Saturday: 11:00am to 11:00pm; (084) 258-184 Plazoleta Nazarenas 221 vegetarian dishes to enjoy. also many other meat, ,fishand for of thequality there thesteaks, are for thedelicious food. known Particularly decor,in theeclectic staying it’sworth stoppingWorth byfor to adrink just take Fallen Angel Vegetarian/Vegan -$ Japanese Udon -$ Fine Dining-$$$

Listings 53 53 Culinary Travel in Peru Cusco & The Highlands 54 Culinary Travel In Peru Cusco & The Highlands Listings Jack’s Cafe Tuesday-Sunday: 10:30am to 7:00pm (084) 248-333 Atoqsaycuchi 605A world goby. balconies incolonial SanBlas watch and the a coffee or tea. Sit twoon one small of the ofOne places thebest to sneakoff to for Atelier Cafe http://jackscafecusco.com/ 7:30amDaily: to 11:30pm (084) 254-606 Calle Choquechaca 509 something that reminds you of home. istheplaceThis to come when you want salads as well main as dishes. some tasty intown),(the best sandwiches soups, and breakfasts food: comfort Think hearty C afe http://www.elhada.com/#_=_ Monday-Saturday: 11:00am to 8:00pm (084) 254-102 Qanchipata 596 won’t soon forget. this anexperience your tastebuds Cinnamon or Orange Cardamom make flavorsArtesanal such as in Cusco, possibly inPeru or anywhere. icecreamSimply thebest you canfind El Hada s and B akeri e s Cafe -$

Cafe -$ Cafe -$ Monday-Saturday: 9:30amto 10:00pm (084) 437-832 Calle Plateros 348-B WiFi. for aquick stop to refuel. Added bonus of of coffee, course, make thisagreat place pizzas,Sandwiches, salads, pastries and, Morena Cafe (084) 227-887 SanCuesta Blas 571 see elsewhere. offers some interesting pieces you won’t walking gallery/shop that through anart at for least dinner, are essential. Enter by There are only eight tables soreservations, is not large, itoffers quitebit a of variety. Food isdelicious although and, themenu cafe restaurant beinNew could York City. trendy itshipand With atmosphere, this Macondo Monday-Saturday: 11:00am to 10:00pm (084) 255-343 Calle 7Angelitos 638 Cusco. sandwichesBest french and fries in Juanitos (084) 246-823 118 Heladeros as sandwiches. is theplace to go. Alsooffers light fare such some of cakes thebest inCusco, Bondiet La For aquick timeout,acup of coffee, and Bondiet La Cafe -$ Cafe -$ Cafe -$ Cafe -$ Cuesta SanCuesta Blas 579 PastorEl Buen cusco/restaurants-in-cusco http://www.belmond.com/hotel-monasterio- 9:00am to 9:00pm;Sunday: 10:00am to 6:00pm Monday-Friday: 8:00am to 9:00pm;Saturday: (084) 604-000 Calle Palacio 135 after touring around. coffee drinks make thisagreat pick-me-up homemade bread. Yummypastries and a sandwich to go, made withtheir A goodplace for aquick bite such as Monasterio Deli empanadas. and A classic SanBlas withsweet institution www.cicciolinacuzco.com/ (084) 239-510 Calle Triunfo floor N393,1st divine. the fresh baked breads pastries and is as thesmell of theywillsell out.Plus, chocolate. Go early inthemorning town, especially theones filledwith Absolutely thebest in Cicciolina

Bakery -$ Bakery -$$ Bakery -$ San Pedro Daily: 7:00amDaily: to 5:00pm Plazoleta San Pedro of photo taking. of berespectful and thevendors interms your Mind heads. wallets to just besafe breads not and, thelast nor pig theleast, made juice, lookat and thepiles of cheese, the fresh afresh vegetables, get fruitsand place best inCuscotoThe goto browse Marke ts Market

Listings 55 55 Culinary Travel in Peru Cusco & The Highlands 56 Culinary Travel In Peru Cusco & The Highlands Listings Choco Museo www.chocomuseo.com 9:00amtoDaily: 7:00pm (084) 244-765 Calle Garcilaso 210, 2nd Fl 4pm.Reservationsand essential. workshop isheld at 11 9and at amand 2 families to do together. basic The 2hour foryour isagreat own This sweets. activity take inaworkshop where part you make Learn about how chocolate ismade and Classe Cusco Cooking ClassCusco Cooking [email protected] classes.htm http://www.cuzcodining.com/cooking- 2:00pm Daily: Calle Palacio 135 essential. eat what you’ve made. Reservations are demonstration. At theend, you to get a hands-on cookingclass, a not just favorite thepiscosour. drink, is This dishes as welltypical as thenational a localmarket, learn to make some Get anintro to Peruvian food, visit s Chocolate Making Cooking http://www.facesofcusco.com/ (084) 225-745 216 de Carnes, Portal 2nd Floor culture. experiences to appreciate food, drinks and comingis constantly up withnew fun and Peru around and theworld? Faces of Cusco dinner withnewfamily-style friends from make cocktail. how Or about a theperfect using indigenous ingredients. learn to Or Learn to make your own chocolate treats Faces Cusco of http://rooftopkitchenperu.com/ 11:00amDaily: or 4:00pm (971) 009-559 Pasaje Retiro 11th 426A, Fl, Wanchaq canbemadebut sameday. rooftop kitchen. Reservations are essential allfromdishes, thisgorgeous 11th floor market, learn to cooksome delicious fusion Learn about Peruvian food, visitSanPedro Kitchen Rooftop htm http://www.cuzcodining.com/marcelo-batata. (084) 222-424 Calle Palacio 121 cinnamon, much and more. been infusedwithflavors such as , well. of One their specialities ispiscothat’s restaurant isafabulous place to do itas better known for this it’spiscotasting, Although theMuseodel Piscomaybe Batata Marcelo

Various Classes Pisco Tasting Cooking wordpress/ http://www.fallenangelincusco.com/ Sunday: 3:00pm to 11:00pm Monday-Saturday: 11:00am to 11:00pm; (084) 258-184 Plazoleta Nazarenas 221 cocktails. friendly bar. Great of nibblesand selection gay-into important Cusco’smost tables. print stools bathtubs and converted ranging from theavant-garde to animal- decorations barwithquirky An eclectic Fallen Angel B sc Cu in ars http://museodelpisco.org/ 11:00amDaily: to 1:00am (084) 262-709 Santa Catalina Ancha 398 piscococktailholds making classes. tapas to keep your sated. Also the kitchen offers several different Lots of piscococktails to sampleand at anytimewithoutprior reservation. places, isavailable apiscotasting most ahuge variety of labels, unlike placesbest to go. Not only does thebar national liquor, pisco, thisisone of the If you want to learn more about Peru’s Museo del Pisco Museo del o Pisco Bar -$$ Bar -$$ Calle Tandapata 100, San Blas nights. music most of SanBlas, withayounger crowd live and barislocatedThis inthebohemian district Km 0 (084) 241-447 Calle Tecsecocha 436 décoratrendy and vibe. Artsy foodof tasty inalaid-back atmosphere. A popular wine-couch barwithaselection Los Perros http://www.paddysirishbarcusco.com/ (084) 247-719 Calle Triunfo 124 evenings. planet, there’s always alively crowd inthe to Irish-owned bethehighest pubon the square food. decent and Claiming pub-style Irish pubwithviewsA typical of themain Paddy’s Irish Pub Pub -$

Listings 57 57 Culinary Travel in Peru Cusco & The Highlands 58 Culinary Travel In Peru Cusco & The Highlands Listings http://www.hotelsolyluna.com/en/solyluna# 7:00pm to 10:00pm 5:00amtoDaily: 10:00am; 12:00pm to 3:00pm; (084) 201-620 Fundo Huincho Lote Urubamba A-5, to match. class, with Peruvian first but fusion cuisine Like thehotel itself, theambiance isrelaxed the restaurant of luxuryhotel yLuna. Sol Sacred Valley canbefound at Killa Wasi, Another finedining experience inthe (Sol yLuna) WasiKilla http://www.elhuacatay.com/ Monday-Saturday: 12:30pm to 10:00pm Jr. Arica 620,Urubamba -(084)201-790 to thepalate. delicatelyand flavored– an absolute delight Sacred Valley region. Every dishisperfectly one of thefinest restaurants intheCusco/ behind awall inavery unassuming is street It comes as apleasant surprise that tucked El Huacatay cafe-ollantaytambo-hotel http://www.elalbergue.com/en/restaurant- 5:00amtoDaily: 10:00pm (084) 204-014 Av Ferrocarril 1, Train Station, Ollantaytambo Picchu. or dinner before takingthetrain to Machu for atranquilfor meal.Perfect lunch atasty you. isone of, This ifnot the, places best tracks inOllantaytambo, don’t letthat fool Although therestaurant isright at thetrain El Albergue SacredValleyThe Fine Dining-$$$ Fine Dining-$$$ Fine Dining-$$

Tuesday-Sunday: 12:00pm to 9:00pm Berriozabal 111, Urubamba for children. Great for families as there isaplayground right across from Seminario Ceramic Studio. vegetarian Conveniently options. located healthy to not-as-healthy choices. Lots of Everything here isdelicious from the Kaia Thursday-Tuesday: 1:00pmto 9:00pm Sagrario 342, Urubamba different .regions of inspiredof from withselections itscurries, pizzas it’sreally but known for thequality is excellent. You canchoose pastas or Kampu’s menu issmall every but selection Another tucked away gem inUrubamba, Kampu Friday-Sunday: 2:00pmto 7:00pm Pachar toon thecorner next asmall chapel. Paradero Puente Pachar; thebrewery is private to directly or transport public weekends. From Cuscoyou cantake Brewery tours on tastings the and using locallysourced ingredients. Ollantaytambo offering unique flavors Valley Urubamba between and A craft brewery located intheSacred Valle del Cerveceria (084) 201-192 (974) 955-977 (984)553-892 Asian/Pizza -$$ Brewery Cafe -$ sumaq-cuisine.php http://www.machupicchuhotels-sumaq.com/ (084) 211-059 Av. Hermanos Ayar Mz1Lote 3 noisy. thatmind ifthehotel isfullitcanbeabit Reservations are essential bearin and placesown thebest inLima. amongst hotel’s 5-star This restaurant its canhold (SumaqHotel) Qunuq 12:00pmDaily: to 10:00pm (084) 211-072 Av. Pachacutec, 6thBlock town. has some of wines you’ll thebest in find salads or pizza as well as Also fullmeals. here. Good for alight bite such as soups, can beassured of authentic getting cuisine theowner-chefWith being you Italian, Viejo Pueblo Incontri del http://www.indiofeliz.com/index-en.html 12:00pmDaily: to 9:00pm (084) 211-090 Calle Lloque Yupanqui 103 portions. theyareand alldelicious withample There aremain lots dessert. and of choices $20 per person that includes anappetizer, offerThey aprix-fixe option for alittle over Aguas Calientes, this istheplace to go. If you’re only goingto one restaurant in Feliz Indio French Peruvian Fusion -$$

Fine Dining-$$$ Italian -$$ restaurant.php http://www.supertramphostel.com/ 1:00pmtoDaily: 9:00pm (084) 435-830 Calle Chaskatika 203 areburgers rate. allfirst that turn you off... thepizzas, salads and floor of abackpacker hostel. Don’t let especially for aplace located on thefirst cafeSurprisingly highquality food, Palate Bistro 5:00amtoDaily: 9:00pm (084) 211-398 Jr. Sinchi Roca archeological site. abovejust where thebuses leave for the be ordered theday before). Located lunch to take up to Machu Picchu (should for aquick snack. Great place to abox get otherand light fare make itagoodstop pastries here are areal treat. Sandwiches theowner isfromAs actually , the Paris de Boulangerie La Cafe -$ Cafe -$

Listings 59 59 Culinary Travel in Peru Cusco & The Highlands t t

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Crab dish at the Mucho Gusto fair in

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The Nor The The North Coast squash, tubers, peppers and beans. ),jalea mixta (a heaped pile of famous version is Lambayeque’s impressive Nor The breaded seafood, typical of Chiclayo), and King Kong, a big flaky block The north coast region of Peru packs From the 1470s onwards, the north coast saw the arrival of two powerful de raya (a type of dried ray omelet full of manjar blanco (dulce de leche), a real punch when it comes to flavor, that dates back to pre-Columbian times). dried fruits and sweet . with fresh ceviches, seafood soups, rivals in quick succession. First, the overthrew the Chimú Kingdom , particularly kid (cabrito), is typical

n Peru n slow-cooked goat and tender duck among the regional specialties. and its vast adobe capital, . of the north coast and is found in popular Then, in 1528, Francisco Pizarro and his dishes such as seco de cabrito (kid cooked Pre-Columbian and Spanish culinary Spanish conquistadors began scouting in chicha de jora, a type of corn beer). traditions have permeated the cuisine the area from Tumbes down to Trujillo; Duck is also common in Chiclayo and of the north coast, which comprises not long after, they would begin the Trujillo, especially arroz con pato, a dish the four regions of Tumbes, Piura, conquest of Peru in earnest. The of duck cooked in black beer and served Lambayeque and La Libertad. Each of culinary heritage of the pre-Columbian with rice. In Piura, there’s seco de chabelo, these coastal regions has distinct local civilizations would ultimately mix with a dish of partially African origin that Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary dishes that are rarely found anywhere both Inca and Spanish traditions, consists of mashed green plantain, beef else in Peru, so culinary travelers always creating a distinctly . or pork, and chicha de jora. The meat, have something new to discover. Ceviche is popular all along the north coast, wheat and bean soup shámbar is famous From 100 AD to the mid-1400s, the north whether in an upscale tourist restaurant throughout Trujillo, as is sopa teóloga coast of Peru was dominated by powerful in Máncora or a rustic cevichería in Piura. (literally “theologian soup”), a soup of civilizations such as the and then Keep an eye out for ceviche de conchas chicken or turkey, bread, vegetables the Chimú. These two related cultures negras, a unique ceviche made with black and various local herbs and spices. left behind a wealth of archaeological shellfish found only in the mangrove areas The north coast’s most famous sweet sites and artifacts, including fine ceramics of Tumbes. Then there’s the chinguirito, a concoction is the , which consists that detailed every aspect of their . ceviche made using dried pacific guitarfish of floury, buttery cookies stuck together In Moche ceramics particularly, we can and found only in the Lambayeque Region. with sweet, sticky fillings. The most see images of local ingredients still used Other classic north coast seafood dishes today, including fish, shellfish, corn, include sudado de pescado (a steamed

62 63 64 Culinary Travel In Peru The North Coast Listings Trujillo Re com.html http://www.restaurantfiestagourmet. Monday-Saturday: 10:00am to 10:00pm (074) 201-970 Salaverry 1820, Chiclayo 421-572(044) Av. Alegre. 954, Larco Vista Trujillo Trujillo Chiclayo. and recommended diningoption inboth ingredients make highly Fiesta themost variety of flavors fresh, and regional mero murique () flambé.The duck over rice to theseafood dish, of specialties norteño from succulent Fiesta yougenerous a willfind offering of preparation. astyle dish but At that ceviche isnot merely aPeruvian gourmet isknown and for hisbelief norteño hasSolís been credited withbringing in Lima, Chiclayo, Trujillo Tacna. and Fiesta restaurant group withbranches isthefounder Solís Héctor of the Fiesta Restaurant Gourmet RestaurantFiesta Gourmet sta urants cuisineinto therealm of the

Norteño -$$ Norteño 3:30am 11:45amDaily: to 4:45pmand 7:00pm to 257-032(044) Jr. Estete N675 historic mansion. by dancing inthebar/club. Housedina the restaurant area then and follow itup can tryawidevariety of regional food in one of thebetter choices intown as you If you’re lookingfor anight out,thisis Chelsea http://www.demarcoperu.com/ 8:00amtoDaily: 12:00am Pizarro 725 here. so keep ifyou thisinmind decideto eat ofquality are thefood mixed, service and of pizzas Reviews pastas. and about the ItalianThis café avariety bistro serves and Restaurant Demarco http://www.elmochica.com.pe/ 462 Bolivar down for . regional food cooked from recipes passed the neighborhood. Known for itsdelicious you canvisititthere as well ifyou’re in restaurant outinHuanchaco started and you canseebythewebsite,As this Mochica http://www.squalosseafoodrestaurant.com/ 5:00pm Trujillo 295-134 -(044) Diaz de Cienfuegos Merced, #250,Urb. La large wine list. of other including choices, asurprisingly menuThe includes ishugeand avast array lunch spotbustling inthecenter of Trujillo. ceviche rice and withmariscos, Squalo’s isa Specializing incriollo Squalo’s (044) 234-251(044) 293-441(044) seafood classics like Daily: 12:00pmDaily: to Norteño -$$ Norteño -$$ Norteño Criollo -$$ Italian -$$ http://www.huanchacobeach.pe/ 12:00pmDaily: to 5:00pm 461-484(044) Avenida 800 Larco Victor beer or frozen lemonade. seafood. Wash itdown witharefreshing ocean view, not to mention the excellent toSit upstairs enjoy theseabreeze the and Huanchaco Beach Club http://www.bigbenhuanchaco.com/ 11:30am to 5:30pm 461-378(044) 461-869 /(044) Avenida 1184. Larco Victor Urb. ElBoquerón fruits. table, there’s nobetter way to taste its here. aview With of theseafrom your the menu, that’s why you want to come Although there ismore than seafood on Ben Big Huanchaco trujillo/gastronomia http://www.libertador.com.pe/libertador/ 232-741(044) Jr. Independencia 485,Plaza de Armas . If you’re intown at theweekend, trytheir traditionally on Mondays served inTrujillo. their Shambar, house specialty, arich stew dishes prepared withlocalingredients, like Bóvedas regional serves international and Located intheHotel Libertador, Las BóvedasLas Regional /International -$$ Seafood -$$ Seafood- $$ Daily: Daily: 7:00am to 2:00pm Monday-Saturday: 7:00am to 8:00pm;Sunday: Balta&CugilevanArica btwn pickpockets! to pick up their wares. Beaware of where traditional shamans willcome chocolate other and items. isalso This is agreat place to pick up localfruits, Covering several thislocalmarket blocks, Modelo Mercado 5:00pm 7:30pm to 10:30pm; Sunday 12:00pm to Monday-Saturday: 12:00pm to 5:00pmand (074) 270-330 Avenida 155, Libertad La Urb. Santa Victoria in thetraditional Chiclayano style. seafood international and dishes prepared up criollo ambianceOld-school serving El Huaralino 8:00pm to 12:30am 12:30pmDaily: to 4:30pm;Thursday-Saturday: Los Alamos 230Urb. Santa Victoria taste of cuisine. Norteño option ifyou want to tryamore unique Chiclayano Vichayo twist, may beagood For afusion of flavors dishes and witha Vichayo Chiclayo

Norteño -$$ Norteño Criollo -$$ Market

Listings 65 65 Culinary Travel in Peru The North Coast 66 Culinary Travel In Peru The North Coast Listings (073) 411 396 Av. Piura 396 you’ve been off. holding it’s asafe place to offerbig anice if Fruitsoptions. veg and are sanitized so Great place for vegetarian vegan and Place Angela’s (998) 488-325 Av. Piura interior which ismore seafood focused. nice switch from restaurant thetypical here (Tex-Mex). Try thelomo saltado fajitas- a of withaspecialty cuisinebut Mexican style of avariety of portions internationalLarge El Aji (981) 308-211 Av. Piura 229 the housespecialty. Japanese-Peruvian cuisinewithsushibeing Ganaha (073) 411-625 Av. Piura 336 music. lively atmosphere including occasional live Known for of thequality thedrinks the and for great food including some lighter fare. Same owner Sirena as La deJuan, gohere Bar Cafe Sirena Mancora La Sirena de Juan de Sirena La Closed Wednesday and Sunday (073) 258-173 Av. Piura 316 Mediterranean influences. Asian and much more low-brow eateries. Some great gourmet option inatown fullof Seafood somuch and more, thisisa International -$$ Vegetarian -$$ Seafood -$$ Seafood -$$ Sushi -$$ discover/restaurant/ http://www.arennasmancora.com/en/ available as inbetween well) Breakfast,Daily: Lunch and Dinner food is (But (073) 283-800 Panamericana 1213 Km. Norte come at amuch higher price tag. with thefriendly attentive and to service delicious Peruvian fusion cuisine combined pleasant surprise. You the would expect restaurantThe at theArennas hotel isa Arennas http://www.kichic.com/restaurant/ 9:30pm 12:30pmDaily: to 3:00pmand 7:00pm to (073) 411-518 Panamericana 1213 Km. Norte into on thebeach Asia inPeru. lovely tranquil, and like takingastep localasand possible. ambiance is The ingredients are sourced to beas fresh vegetarian seafood and kitchens and haveon wellness. They separate restaurant isat ahotel that focuses themeThe ishealthy food here, as the KiChic Vegetarian /Seafood -$$$ Peruvian Fusion -$$ (073) 328-585 Calle Tacna 119, Piura menu. is agreat option for chifa withanample Although Piura isn’trenowned for it,this CantonChifa http://www.elnuevoajicito.pe/ (073) 331-290 Lt.5, Piura Providencia,Urb. La Av. Gardenias Las Mz.B natural and Rustic locals. environment. cevicheríaBest El Nuevo Ajicito http://www.capuccino-piura.com/ 1.15pm; Sundays from 6.30amto 5pm. 11.30pm; Fridays and Saturdays from 6.30amto Open Monday to Thursday from 6.30amto (073) 307-950 Tacna 786,Piura with reasonable pricing. upscaleA goodquality restaurant inPiura, Capuccino Piura intown, very popular with Gourmet -$$ Ceviche -$$ Chifa -$$ http://www.eduardoelbrujo.com/ (972) 678-640 Calle Bolognesi and Malecon Benavides Peru. seafood that you inNorthern canfind pricey someA bit but of fresh thebest E Tumbes duardo ElBrujo Seafood -$$$

Listings 67 67 Culinary Travel in Peru The North Coast ast Co t h The & ast Co t h Sou The & a Arequipa & a

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Grape cultivation at Las Viñas Queirolo in Ica

68 69 Rocoto chilli peppers at La Nueva Palomino picanteria in Arequipa ast Co t h Sou The & ast Co t h Sou The & a a

Arequipa & the South Coast and African slaves, becoming a spicier, coastal towns in the region, such latter sharing a border with . Tacna Arequip more flavorful version of its former self. as Camaná and Mollendo, is largely is famous for its tacneño, which Arequip Dry deserts and dusty highways don’t Afro-Peruvian culture is especially based around seafood and the catch consists of chunks of pork marinated bode well for fine cuisine, but you’ll of the day, so expect anything from in garlic, ají panca, vinegar, cumin and be pleasantly surprised by the food pronounced in the north of the Ica Region, particularly in the city of Chincha, ceviche to steamed razor . palillo (). Moquegua, meanwhile, and drink along Peru’s south coast. proudly presents its traditional cacharrada,

n Peru n where African influences are easy to see The city of Arequipa itself is something Despite possessing some of the driest in the folk culture, art, music and food. of an anomaly, being half way between a collection of bovine internal organs -- deserts in the world, civilizations along Each year in February, Chincha hosts the the coast and the heights of the Andes, including heart, , gizzard and testicles. this coastal strip have long been fed by Verano Negro (“Black Summer”) festival, and possessing an independent streak is also popular in Moquegua and both the sea and by fertile river valleys the biggest celebration of Afro-Peruvian that has some arequipeños dreaming Tacna, with both regions possessing their descending from the Andes. Pre-Columbian culture in Peru. Classic African-influenced of independence from the rest of Peru. own type of patasca, a tripe-based civilizations such as the Paracas and Nazca dishes found in Chincha include bufo Typical dishes from the Arequipa region that’s also eaten in the highlands. cultures flourished here from 100 BC to chinchano -- a robust mix of cow lungs include ají de lacayote (made using Beyond food, there is one thing that all of

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary 800 AD, adapting the barren environment and liver with vegetables and spices -- a local variety of squash) and adobo the above regions have in common: pisco. Peru in Travel Culinary with systems, intelligent water and a -sprinkled black bean and arequipeño (a juicy dish of pork, rocoto, Peru’s iconic grape brandy is produced management and underground aqueducts. dessert called frejol colado. chicha de jora and red onions). Arequipa’s in the coastal vineyards of Lima, Ica, Today, the coastal regions south of Lima Beans are common all along the south spicy rocoto relleno (stuffed rocoto Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna. Home -- Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and Tacna -- coast. Pallar beans, otherwise known as pepper), meanwhile, is distinct from its to the city of Pisco itself, the Ica region is produce a range of distinct dishes, many lima beans or beans, feature in Cusco counterpart, while the city is also arguably the most famous grape-growing of which fall under the broad label of two regional staples: picante de pallares famous for chupe de camarones, made and pisco-producing region in the world. cocina criolla, or Peruvian creole food. This (beans cooked in ají verde, garlic and other from fresh river . Many of these While the so-called “Pisco Route” has style of cuisine is a mix of pre-Columbian, herbs and spices) and morusa (a pallar dishes can be found in one of the city’s now been expanded to include the entire Spanish and Afro-Peruvian influences. A bean puree served with pork or beef). picanterias, which are always busy with south coast, the traditional tour was locals and serve enormous portions. classic example of this cultural mix is the The sparse stretch of coast immediately largely contained within Ica, stopping coastal carapulcra, a dried potato and below Ica lies in the Arequipa Region Below Arequipa are the two southernmost off at the region’s most historic bodegas meat stew that began with the Incas and -- a region dominated by the inland regions of Peru, Moquegua and Tacna, the and haciendas, some of which have been was adapted by both Spanish colonists city of Arequipa. The cuisine of notable in operation for more than a century.

70 71 Pisco - The Spirit of Peru D.O. Pisco The use of the name pisco is regulated by Quick Facts the organizations Indecopi and the Consejo Pisco is a spirit made using a particular Regulador Denominación de Origen Pisco. process based on a traditional method that uses Peruvian grapes. Pisco Grape Varieties: Pisco is a Quechua word that means “” Aromatic grapes: Italia, Torontel, and is also the name of a port in the Albilla and Moscatel. south of Peru famous for its ceramics. Non-aromatic grapes: Quebranta, Uvina, Negra Criolla and Mollar. Distillation Process ast Co t h Sou The & ast Co t h Sou The & a To make pisco, the fresh juice of Peruvian Regions of Peru where Pisco grapes a grapes is firstly fermented in tanks before are most commonly cultivated: being distilled in copper alembics. The first The Valleys of Lima, Ica, Arequipa,

Arequip yield during distillation is called “the head”, Moquegua and Tacna. Arequip which is discarded due to its toxicity. As soon as the desired alcohol level is Pisco Categories: achieved, the body of the spirit can be Puro: Made from just one authorized obtained. “The tail” emerges after the grape. You will find the name n Peru n content of alcohol drops below the desired of the grape on the label. level. This is also discarded due to its Acholado: A blend of at least toxicity and high water level content. 2 authorized grapes. After distillation, the alcohol percentage is Mosto Verde: The distillation of an between 38 and 45% ABV. No dilution is incompletely fermented juice. involved. Upon completion, the extracted distillate it transferred into stainless Common Aromas found in Pisco: Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary steel tanks for as little as 2 months, Peru in Travel Culinary although more typically it sits for a year , mango, , olive, jasmine, orange or more. The flavor of the distillate blossom, lavender, lemon, orange and lime. remains and clean, avoiding any changes to the flavor profile that would be associated with wood barrel aging.

72 73 Culinary Experiences A short transfer by private car delivers you to the humble and classic yet equally “On the Grapevine” © - The Pisco Route impressive Las Viñas Queirolo, a boutique hotel and small onsite production facility Enjoy the perfect introduction to tucked away amongst the vineyards of Peruvian pisco and wine on a half- Santiago Queirolo. Stroll past that year’s day tour, leading you to a selection of Merlots, Cabernet Sauvignons, and other different vineyards and distilleries. From grapes waiting to be harvested as your a modern and impressive distillation guide briefs you on the history of the facility to a classic and cozy vineyard, vineyard, the differences in the types of sip your way to a better understanding grapes being grown, appropriate harvest of fine and spirits. times, and more. Arrive at a nearby ast Co t h Sou The & ast Co t h Sou The &

a Begin your vineyard tour at the brand-new mirador (vantage point) situated on a a Pisco Portón distillery. Situated on the hill overlooking a nearly endless expanse grounds of the oldest working distillery in of grapes, contrasting beautifully with the Americas, Hacienda La Caravedo dating the bright blue sky. Enjoy a (at Arequip Arequip back to 1684, Portón seeks to embrace sunset) and the opportunity to admire and integrate its traditional, centuries-old the panoramic views of Peru’s wine methods with its new, sleek and modern producing region before retreating facilities. Follow your guide through to the small boutique hotel in the the pristine distillery, learning about the beautiful white colonial-style hacienda n Peru n complicated and centuries-old processes tucked away amongst the vines or to used to create this unique product and your accommodation in Paracas. enjoying a sampling of Portón’s pisco varieties in the stylish tasting room. Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary

Las Viñas Queirolo

74 75 76 Culinary Travel In Peru Arequipa & The South Coast Listings Chicha http://www.chicha.com.pe/ 12:00pmDaily: to 11:00pm (054) 287-360 Santa Catalina 210 for finedininginArequipa. fresh localingredients, Chicha isasure bet well as new takes on Peruvian cuisineusing Acurio. Featuring traditional favorites as inspired byPeru’s noted most chef, Gaston It’s tough to gowrong witha menu Arequipa Re restaurant.html http://www.zigzagrestaurant.com/eng/ 12:00pmDaily: to 12:00pm Zela 210 -(054) 206-020 Eiffel. by French architect, Gustave Alexandre experience. Note thestaircase designed combining to provide anunforgettable on and to thewinelists the desserts everything from to themain courses, influence isawinner here, with fusion ofThe Swiss Peruvian and ZigZag sta urants Fine Dining-$$$ Fine Dining-$$$ http://www.qaya.pe/ 4:00pm 6:30pm to 10:30pm; Sunday: 12:00pm to Tuesday-Saturday: 12:00pm to 4:00pmand (054) 235-687 207Calle Ugarte mood. ambiance that sets theperfect A great take on Peruvian favorites, withan Qaya http://www.salamanto.com Monday -Saturday: 7:00pm to 12:00am H-11León XIII, Cayma including some organic choices. presentation. Anextensive winelist flavoredperfectly dishes to the exquisite that Arequipa has to offer, from the ofOne finedining thebest experiences Salamanto http://paladar1900.com.pe/ Sunday: 12:00pm to 8:00pm Monday -Saturday: 11:00am to 12:15am; Calle San Francisco 227 to trysome different wines and/or piscos. option than many. Great choice ifyou want make thisamore interesting finedining Peruvian fusion withinternational flair Paladar 1900 http://www.latrattoriadelmonasterio.com/ 4:00pm 7:00pm to 11:00pm; Sunday: 12:00pm to Monday -Saturday: 12:00pm to 4:00pmand Santa Catalina 309 grounds. night out. Great settinginthemonastery ingredients Andean and make thisaspecial Delicious Italian with Tratoria Monasterio del (054) 340-607 (054) 204-062 Arequipeño influences (054) 226-295 Fine Dining-$$$ Fine Dining-$$ Fine Dining-$$ Fine Dining- $$ Capitana La http://www.restaurantsoldemayo.com/ 11:00amDaily: to 6:00pm (054) 254-148 Calle Jerusalen 207, Yanahuara is lovely, withabeautiful garden setting. foodThe isgreat though theambiance and has become soknown touristy. it’sabit food,Arequipa’s typical the restaurant best After close some to acenturyof serving MayoSol de http://picanterialamundial.com.pe/ 11:00amDaily: to 5:30pm (054) 232-040 Calle Lucas Poblete 211 offer. that you thearea thebest has willget to of delicious Arequipeño food ensures hugeportions More serving than 95years Mundial 11:00amDaily: to 6:00pm (054) 449-898 Avenida Progreso 319, Huaranguillo area. place to trythetraditional favorites of the it’sagreat inthebusiness, than 50years picanterias canbefound. more With one inYanahuara where several other Cau Cau has three branches, including Cau Cau 8:00amtoDaily: 12:00am Calle Los Arces 209,Yanahuara Capitana La isoneand of thebest. to visitone of these traditional restaurants Arequipa isthe idealplace inthecountry food withoutgoingto apicanteria. You can’treally say you’ve tried Peruvian P erias icant Traditional -$ Traditional -$ Traditional -$ Modern -$ (054) 484-685 Umacollo Calle Málaga Grenet D-4Urb. Magisterial, than theold-school options. food perhaps and more attention to detail picanteria inArequipa withgreat tasting A welcome addition to theworld of the Nuestra Picantería http://www.tipika.com.pe/ Calle Luna Pizarro 407, Vallecito bored. playground to keep them from getting great place to tryas theyhave anoutdoor terrace. Ifyou have small children, thisisa traditional settingwithalovely outdoor traditionalGood typical food ina Tipika Daily: 11:00amDaily: to 5:30pm (054) 252-393 Pasaje Leoncio Prado 122, Yanahuara ambiance.and place to gofor localflavor inboth food loudonbit theweekends thisisthe but a although Itcanget alittletouristy. ofthe best Arequipa’s picanterias, Considered bymany localsto be NuevaLa Palomino Modern -$ Modern -$ Modern -$

Listings 77 77 Culinary Travel in Peru Arequipa & The South Coast 78 Culinary Travel In Peru Arequipa & The South Coast Listings Crepisimo http://www.laiberica.com.pe/ (054) 218-842 Jerusalen 136 trip to Peru. or to enjoy yourself remember and your an excellent present to take home withyou produced inPeru, agiftfrom here makes Probably chocolate thebest commercially Iberica 10:00amDaily: to 8:00pm (054) 222104 Santa Catalina 302 quiche, coffee, pastries, more and A European-style cafe. Pastas, sandwiches, Despensa La http://www.crepisimo.com/ 8:00amtoDaily: 12:00am (054) 206-620 Calle Santa Catalina 208 juices cocktails. and both savory, sweetand sandwiches, salads, including more than 100 of types crepes - Relaxed atmosphere food withhighquality restaurants inArequipa, comes Crepisimo. oneZag, of noted the most gourmet From thesamepeople whohave Zig C afe s and Ch oc o late Chocolate -$ Crepes -$ Cafe -$

Daily: 11:00amDaily: to 9:00pm (054) 234-572 Santa Catalina 204, 2nd Floor enjoy thedelicious goodies there. not interested relax canjust inthecafe and workshop as anyone inyour group who’s place foryour own. a It’stheperfect how it’sprocessed even and how to make Learn about thehistory of chocolate, Chocolate Workshop Chaqchao O Daily: 11:00amDaily: to 9:00pm (054) 234-572 Santa Catalina 204, 2nd Floor disappointed. you won’tice cream be or thedesserts, coffee, thecraft beer, the homemade Whether you gofor thechocolates, the Chaqchao rganic Chocolatesrganic Chocolates, Cafe /Bar -$ El Garage Daily: 1:00pmtoDaily: 3:00pm;5:30pmto 10:00pm (054) 212-621 Palacio Viejo 321 A having achange from theregional cuisine. setting. Good for your getting fixand pizzaPasta Italian and style inalow-key Peruita 6:00pm to 11:00pm Monday -Saturday: 12:00pm to 3:00pmand (054) 429-881 and Rivero Urb. Quinta Tristan LL-10, Jose Bustamente Luis (sausage french and fries) more. and with delicious sandwiches, Great option for aquick low-cost and meal C as u al Re sta urants Sandwiches/Salchipapas -$ Pizza -$ Museo del Pisco Museo del http://casonadelpisco.com/ 12:00pmDaily: to 12:00am (054) 231809 San Francisco 319 here for thewholeevening. beforestay or after dinner just or actually fine cuisineso you cancome here for drinks It’salsoarestaurant cocktails. and serving place to enjoy sitand goodcompany just atmosphere for enjoying it,thisisagreat theexcellentWith perfect piscoand Pisco del Casona La http://museodelpisco.org/ 11:00amDaily: to 1:00am (054) 281-583 Moral St. 229 making classes. appetite sated. piscococktail Alsoholds offers several different tapas to keep your pisco cocktails to thekitchen sampleand time withoutprior reservation. Lots of places, isavailable apiscotasting at any stock ahuge variety of labels, unlike most placesbest to go. Not only does thebar national liquor, pisco, thisisone of the If you want to learn more about Peru’s Bars Bar -$$ Bar -$$

Listings 79 79 Culinary Travel in Peru Arequipa & The South Coast 80 Culinary Travel In Peru Arequipa & The South Coast Listings El Piloto http://restaurantparacas.com/ 11:00amDaily: to 11:00pm (056) 535138 Paracas Av. Paracas alingreso del Muelle, ElChaco, some dishes especially for children. evenand vegetarian Alsofeatures options. although there are of plenty beef, chicken with aheavy emphasis on seafood, A hugemenu Peruvian of typical dishes Restaurante Paracas RestaurantElPiloto https://www.facebook.com/ 284-4114 Km.138 ),Cañete Av. 28de Julio 216 (Antigua Panamericana Sur dishes withcamarones (crayfish). delicious yucitas known fritas. Best for of Peruvianportions and standard dishes, the original ElPiloto offers gigantic moreWith inthebusiness, than 40years South Coast The Re sta urants Peruvian/Seafood -$$ Seafood Criollo -$$ O www.facebook.com/La 11:00amDaily: to 5:00pm (056) 403-317 Fundo Tres Esquinas 121, Subtanjalla, Ica visitingwineries.between locatedPerfectly for alunch stop in place for travelers Peruvians and alike. reasonableand prices make thisapopular delicious Peruvian favoritesHuge portions, Restaurante O lla de Juanitalla de llaDeJuanita Peruvian -$$ made withpisco. some of thedelicious cocktails that are different try Visit thebarand varieties. learn how it’smade to get and taste some about Peru’s national liquor, pisco. You’ll Tour thevineyard outmore find and O del Viñas http://www.hotelvinasqueirolo.com/ (01) 205-7170 Carretera aLos Molinos 11, Km. Ica is gaining international recognition. world of wine, withitslabel Intipalka which it isnow making aname for itself inthe 1880 whileonce and, known for itspiscos, vineyards. Quierolo has been around since wake of of up inthemidst 400hectares the grape, it’shard to do better than to staying at thehotel, ifyou are alover of Although you cantour thewinery without Hotel Queirolo Viñas content/home.php http://www.piscovinasdeoro.com.pe/ to 5:00pm;Saturday: 9:00amto 12:00pm Monday-Friday: 9:00amto 1:00pmand 2:00pm (01) 706-2241 Canoa, Chincha Carretera Panamericana 213 SurKm. Lote P isc o and ro Vineyards

Vineyard -$$$ http://www.piscoporton.com Tours: (01) 711-7800 291,Km Panamericana Sur experts. of, ifnot the, world’s foremost pisco JohnnySchuler,Distiller known as one Pisco Porton was developed byMaster number from one piscoexported Peru, inPeru,just inalltheAmericas. but The in 1641, not distillery, itistheoldest beit.Established thisshould distillery, If you’re goingto visitone pisco Caravedo La Hacienda Pisco Distillery

Listings 81 81 Culinary Travel in Peru Arequipa & The South Coast ast Co t h Sou The & The Amazon a

The Am a zon The Rainforest Am a zon Arequip The n Peru n Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary

82 83 The Pacaya Samiria River ast Co t h Sou The & The Amazon Today, three major cities lie in the selva as you eat tacacho, the smells of the grill women selling jungle aphrodisiacs and a baja: Puerto Maldonado in the far drifting down the road along with the potions for every possible affliction, and The Peruvian Amazon opens up a south, Pucallpa in the center, and Iquitos sounds of traffic and cumbia music. men hawking everything from cigars to whole new world of food, with its in the north. These three river ports jaguar pelts. Other sections are home The Am a zon The Another common sight in the jungle Am a zon Arequip The rivers and jungles supplying an amazing have colorful histories, often involving to aproned vendors selling herbs and array of fruit, fish and meat. is the bijao , or, more specifically, exploration, cultural clashes, rubber food wrapped inside a bijao leaf. These spices, or plastic buckets full of live turtles Take a stroll through any traditional booms and illegal activities. Further to dishes include the popular juane, a leaf- or snails, all destined for the pot. jungle market and you’ll soon see the the west, as the jungle begins to rise wrapped parcel of spiced rice containing Unsurprisingly, Amazon markets like the

n Peru n wealth of unfamiliar and exotic produce into the foothills of the Andes, lies the meat (normally chicken), olives and a one in Belen are also brimming with fish, on offer. There are roasted ants and giant strip of selva alta, or high jungle, with hard-. Regional versions of some fresh and others salted and dried. freshwater fish, leaf-wrapped oddities cities such as Moyobamba, Tarapoto and the standard juane include the juane de Paiche deserves particular attention; the and a seemingly endless selection of Tingo Maria. This upland jungle region chonta (heart of palm), nina juane (an second largest fish in the fruits. All of these wait to be discovered is more suitable for , and is egg-based soupy mix) and avispa juane world, paiche is a meaty and tasty fish by adventurous travelers who venture known for coffee, cacao and coca. (with ground pork). Bijao leaves are also that can reach lengths of up to 15 feet. into this fascinating part of Peru. Some classic dishes are found throughout used to another famous jungle dish The doncella is another excellent The Peruvian Amazon has never been the Peruvian Amazon, none more called patarashca, which normally consists jungle catch. If you think ceviche is only Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary an easy place to settle or to live. By the emblematic than tacacho con cecina. The of fish wrapped in abijao leaf and cooked worth ordering on the coast of Peru, Peru in Travel Culinary late-1400s, the Inca Empire controlled flat, reddish slabs ofcecina -- a type of over charcoal. Patarashcas are also made the paiche and doncella ceviches in a huge swathe of territory along the dried and cured pork -- are served with using meats as varied as shrimp, mountain Iquitos might make you think again. Andean range and the Pacific coast to the balls of tacacho, made from mashed paca (a jungle rodent) and jungle grubs. As for the fruits of the Peruvian Amazon, west. East of the Andes, however, was green plantain flavored with pork fat. Like ants, these fat grubs, known as well, the list goes on and on. There’s camu a different challenge entirely. With the This classic combination is sold in both suri, are standard snacks in the Amazon. camu with its exceptionally high vitamin exception of a few brave explorers, the upscale restaurants and simple street You can find both -- alive or roasted -- in C content. Then there’s aguaje, a fruit Incas rarely tried to penetrate the depths grills, often with very little difference apart traditional jungle markets. The vast Belen supposed to help renew and reshape the of the Amazon, a land they saw as unruly from the price. Most grills in the jungle Market in Iquitos is one of the largest and female body. Other fruits include guarana, and savage. They traded with jungle tribes also sell Peruvian-style sausage most interesting in Peru. The sights, sounds huasaí (açaí), cocona, arazá and carambola -- and sometimes used their archers in -- and . In cities like Tarapoto, and smells of Belen are ever changing (star fruit), some of which have reached the battle -- but permanent Inca settlements you can pull up a seat at the grill, order as you wind your way through the maze global market, while others remain largely in the selva baja, or low jungle, were rare. a beer from the bodega next door, and of stalls, the light shifting beneath the unknown outside the Amazon basin. See sit and watch the mototaxis stream by colorful tarpaulins. Here you’ll find pages 92 and 93 for a guide to tropical fruit.

84 85 Culinary Experiences cuisine. Chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino has taken it upon himself to connect with “Appetizing Amazon” © - these people and conceptualize their Cocktail Demonstration and Amazon cuisine, which he showcases in Amazonian meal in Lima his popular Miraflores restaurant, ámaZ. Enjoy an exotic culinary experience at Upon arrival, you will take a seat at the bar ámaZ restaurant in Lima. The Amazon where the bartender will skillfully prepare Rainforest is one of the natural wonders two colorful cocktails as he elaborates on of the world, containing 10% of the the diverse ingredients and preparation world’s biodiversity. Not only is the of the drinks. Learn about the exotic fruits diverse, but the people inhabiting the from the Amazon, such as tumbo, camu

rainforest are as well. There are over 50 camu and carambola. To accompany your ast Co t h Sou The & a ethnic groups in the Peruvian Amazon, the cocktails, you will be treated to a few second largest expanse of tropical delectable appetizers before sitting down in the world, and each of these groups at your table to enjoy an exceptional meal

The Am a zon The has their own way of incorporating the prepared with the varied and sumptuous Am a zon Arequip The rich products of the rainforest into their products that that the Amazon has to offer. n Peru n Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary

A cocktail made from camu camu at ámaZ restaurant

86 87 Iquitos Luxury Cruises Belén market. Market Puerto Maldonado Always noisy, colorful and full of life, Belén Restaurants market is a fabulous place not only to see Gustitos del Cura Cafe / - $ all the local produce that the jungle has Whether you go for a yummy light meal to offer but also to get a feel for daily life Al Frio y al Fuego Peruvian - $$$ or the delicious dessert options, you’ll here. It can be a place for pickpockets, be happy to know that the profits go to While the food is great and offers a wide however, so stow your money away variety of traditional favorites, what really support a home for children who are at- carefully. Best in the early morning from risk. makes this restaurant stand out is its around 7am. location on its own floating platform in Loreto 258, Plaza de Armas Delfin Amazon Cruises Gourmet - $$$ On the river, a few blocks from the Plaza de (082) 571-055 the river which diners are transported to Armas, Iquitos. and from by the restaurant’s own boat. There’s no doubt that one of the best Monday-Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday: ways to experience the Amazon is by Daily from 7:00am 11:00am to 10:00pm

Also features a pool where you can enjoy a ast Co t h Sou The &

refreshing cocktail and take a quick dip to boat. With Delfin Amazon cruises, a Burgos’s Restaurante Peruvian - $ cool off. that once in a lifetime experience will only be enhanced by the quality of the Great choice for trying local style cuisine. Av La Marina N 134-B, Iquitos gourmet cuisine using the freshest local 965-607-474 Known for its huge portions and large The Am a zon The Monday-Saturday: 12:00pm to 11:00pm; ingredients available. variety of vegetarian options. Am a zon Arequip The Sunday: 12:00pm to 5:30pm Av. Abelardo Quiñones Km. 5, Nauta Av. 26 de Diciembre 195 http://www.alfrioyalfuego.com/ (065) 262-721 / (065) 262-713 (082) 502–373 Monday-Friday: 8:15am to 5:30pm Daily: 10:00am to 10:00pm Amazon Bistro French - $$ http://www.delfinamazoncruises.com/

n Peru n There are plenty of reasons to stop by here, not the least of which is the setting in a restored mansion from the heyday of the rubber boom and the fact that it’s open to the wee hours. But the food is fab as well and ranges from light bistro fare to full-on dinners such as . Malecón Tarapacá 268, Iquitos

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary (065) 600-785 Peru in Travel Culinary Monday-Thursday: 6:00am to 1:00am; Friday- Saturday 6:00am to 2:00am; Sunday: 8:00am- Aqua Expeditions Gourmet - $$$ 3:00 am Aqua Expeditions’ dining experience goes above and beyond any afficianado Karma Cafe Cafe - $$ of gourmet cuisine with menus A funky laid-back atmosphere and a mix developed by their world famous of international fare and stand-bys such as executive chef, Pedro Miguel Schiaffino. sandwiches, burgers and salads make this U.S. & : +1 866 603 3687 a good place to get a bite and converse http://www.aquaexpeditions.com/ with other travelers. Vegetarian options as well. Calle Napo 138 (065) 600-576 Daily: 12:30pm to 12:30am

88 89 Coffee – café Words and Phrases to Know Cooking Terms A table for (1, 2, 3, 4) please – Una mesa Cold (as in cold drink) – helado Grilled – A la parrilla para (uno/dos/tres/cuatro) por favor Cutlery – Cubiertos Roasted - Al horno Another, please – otro, por favor Dessert – postre Skewers - Brocheta Enjoy your meal – Buen provecho! Dinner – Cena Deep fried – Chactado I like my steak rare – Quisiera la Drink – bebida carne casi cruda / a la inglesa Battered and deep fried – Chicharron de – tenedor Medium – termino medio Fried – Frito Ice Cubes – hielo Well done – bien cocido Breaded and fried – – cuchillo Is the tip included – Incluye la propina? Stuffed – Relleno Lunch – almuerzo It’s delicious – Esta rico! Main dish – plato principal or fondo Please – por favor Milk – leche That’s all – Eso es todo. Napkin – servilleta The menu, please – La carta, por favor Pepper – pimienta (pimienta The check, please – La cuenta, por favor negra – )

n Peru n The wine list, please – La carta de Rice – arroz vinos / la lista de vinos, por favor Pork – cerdo To get the waiter’s attention – Señor! Room temperature – al tiempo To get the waitress’ attention Salad – ensalada – Señorita! Señora! – sal To your , cheers – Salud! Soup – sopa Where is the bathroom? – Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary ¿Donde estan los servicios? Spicy – picante (aji/rocoto – spicy peppers) Appetizer – Entrada – cuchara Beef – Carne Sugar – azucar Beer – Cerveza Table – mesa Bread - Pan Tea – té Breakfast – Desayuno Tip – propina Butter – mantequilla Vegan – vegano Chair – silla Vegetables - verduras Fish vendor at San Cheese – queso Vegetarian – vegetariano Isidro Market in Lima Chicken – pollo Wine – Vino (bottle – botella, cup – vaso)

90 91 Guide to Tropical Fruit high content and tastes like a Lucuma – Definitely and honeydew and is certainly worth tasting. combination of sour and lime. It a favorite throughout Tumbo – Also known as “banana passion Blessed with extreme biodiversity and the is best enjoyed in juices, cocktails, and Peru and found fruit” because of its exterior resemblance three vastly different climate zones of the even used for some natural medicines. on many dessert to a banana, open up this fruit to reveal a coast, highlands, and jungle, Peru is home to menus paired with Chirimoya – Also cluster of pulp sacs with black . Found a myriad of fruits, some native, others exotic chocolate. This native to the Andes typically in the Andean valleys of Peru, tumbo and rarely known in other regions of the creamy subtropical and grown in higher is very sour and therefore, most enjoyed in world. A visit to any Peruvian market is the fruit is native to altitude locations juices perhaps mixed with a little sugar. perfect opportunity to see and try some of the country and was even featured on throughout Peru, these special and unique fruits, and below is Moche ceramics in famous burial sites. Tuna - a cactus fruit, with a thick and the chirimoya, or a guide to a few of our must-taste favorites. The fruit is a meaty orange color with thin green (also found in yellow and pink) apple, has brown peel and is generally consumed in grainy interior similar to a prickly pear. Aguaje – Native to the Amazon regions delicious, creamy cakes, sweets, ice-cream or milkshakes. of Peru, these palm fruits have a scaly, -like flesh – so tasty that even Mark Also not to be overlooked are some of purplish and peelable skin that gives Twain penned it “the most delicious fruit Maracuya – Passion fruit, in the same the more familiar fruits like mango and way to slightly acidic yellow pulp. known to man.” Try this one on its own family as granadilla, distinguished by its palta (avocado), whose intense flavor and textures are unmatchable by those found Aguaymanto – Often mistaken for and slightly chilled or as an ice cream. tart flavor. The refreshing sourness and its natural make for a perfect exported to the US and elsewhere. Other a gooseberry, this sweet and tangy Granadilla – Perfectly round, the size of juice. For a lip-puckering and refreshing jungle fruits to look out for are copoazu, fruit has its roots in the Andes and is a tennis ball, this sweet passion fruit has beverage, try a jugo surtido (mixed cocona, guanabana and carambola. actually part of the potato/ a hard, cantaloupe-colored outer shell juice) of maracuya and pineapple. family. A powerful , it is with a pouch filled with pulp and seeds As in any case, many of these fruits are n Peru n perfect for sauces over fish or meat. much like tumbo. You can eat both the Pepino – Sometimes called a “tree melon” seasonal so depending on what time of year you are visiting, you may encounter slightly Camu Camu – Only found in Peru and , pulp and the seeds straight up or perhaps and another native fruit of the Andes different flavor profiles or a varied selection. this superfruit is said to have extraordinarily enjoy it in juice, ice cream, or jams. belonging to the potato/tomato family, this unique fruit tastes like a blend of Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Peru in Travel Culinary

92 93 Guide to Ingredients are made requesting mother earth Quinoa - This is also known as the “Golden Key Herbs and Spices Grain of the Andes”. A half cup of boiled “Pacha mama” and the holy mountains or Aji - Peruvian chilli, which is ubiquitous Native crops of the Andes “Apus” for well being and abundance. Quinoa provides more protein than a across the country and used extensively in good steak and the nutritional value of Kiwicha - Cultivated throughout the Peruvian cuisine. The most common type is In some cases, especially with the potato, milk. It is cultivated in Andean valleys Andean valleys between altitudes of 1500 aji amarillo (yellow chilli), which is a milder these crops have become staples worldwide, between 2500 and 4000m. Its blossom is and 3500m, its blossom is a very bright variety with a distinct flavor. Aji Panca since the time Europeans came across them pink. It is eaten in salads, soups, stews, and intense pink. It is very nutritious and is a darker chilli with a fruitier, smokier in the 1500s. Other plants in the list are pastries, breakfast and . taste. Rocoto - which is often mistaken widely eaten as a breakfast , power little-known internationally and even in for a red - is extremely hot, bars and in stews and dishes. Yacón - Naturally sweetened by while the multicolored aji limo is also to be modern Peru, as they were until recently fructoligosaccharides, which are not Maca - Cultivated in central Peru at approached with caution. Each restaurant considered food for native peoples. They metabolized by the body, this is a magical altitudes of up to 4400 meters. The roots has its own version of aji sauce, which have, however, been consumed consistently for diabetics. The roots are eaten raw or are believed to possess enhancing varies from mild and creamy to fiery hot! by the native population of the Andes can be dried and made into chips or prepared since time immemorial. It is important to properties, to improve vitality, mental as pickles. Leaves are used as tea, reputed to Huacatay - Native to Peru and a member note that many of these plants (with the capacity, reproductive health, and reduce sugar and cholesterol levels. of the marigold family, this herb has exception of coca) can be grown up to strengthen the . It can be a stong and curious flavor that is not 4500m. They are very resistant to adverse eaten fresh or processed as nutritional Yuca - Manioc. Often deep fried and dissimilar to a mixture of mint, basil and climate, and grow in areas where most supplements, , candies, jams or drinks. served alongside seafood dishes, or as a tarragon. Known as “Peruvian Black conventional crops would fail. Quinoa and snack to be dipped in yellow chilli sauce. Mashua- Very high yielding (up Mint”, it is used widely in Andean cuisine, kiwicha are noteworthy as they are some to 70 tons/hectare). Contains natural and is often made into a dark green of the most nutritious grains in the world! and is often planted with n Peru n sauce to accompany a Pachamanca. Quinoa and Kiwicha have approximately 3 other crops to protect fields from times and 1 ½ more than rice and pest. Sometimes used as medicine for wheat respectively, and 1 ½ times more ailments and as a diuretic. protein than those two traditional grains. Mauka - Ancient crop rediscovered Many of these foodstuffs are found in by scientists in the 1960s. Produces contemporary Andean cuisine. Quinoa has succulent edible stems and tasty roots recently become a wildly-popular health food high in and . Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary worldwide due to its remarkable properties. Boiled, baked or eaten in soups, stews Peru in Travel Culinary Choclo - Andean corn, or maize. White, or desserts. Its foliage is high in protein, big and with kernels possibly three times it therefore makes good . the size of North American yellow corn. Oca - A major staple in pre-Columbian times, Coca - Coca has been widely consumed in mainly eaten boiled in soups and stews. Very the Andes since time immemorial. Its uses high yielding (up to 55 tons/ hectare) High in are many: to provide , to soothe , and organic acids (including altitude sickness, to improve digestion soluble oxalates), hence slightly acidic in taste. are some examples. It is consumed as an Olluco - twisted, yellow and pink tuber infusion and also raw, several leaves made only found in the Andes. Traditionally into a small ball are chewed for hours. It is eaten with minced meat and rice. still widely used for mystical ceremonies of “payments to the earth” where offerings Papa amarilla - a small, bright yellow potato with texture of egg .

94 95 Guide to Medicinal Plants pre-Columbian times in Peru. The seeds and powder from the plant are good for For thousands of years people of the digestion and have also been used to Andes and the Amazon have relied treat asthma and as antimalarial medicine. on herbal medicines to treat common The fruits and seeds can be consumed ailments like headaches, infections and in a tea infusion that is often taken to inflammations. Today, along with modern control headaches. The leaves have anti- medicine, people continue utilizing the Muña inflammatory and antibacterial properties same plants with these positive health which can prevent prostatitis that could benefits. Many of these medicinal plants later lead to prostate . The crushed are native to the Amazon and the Andes of leaves can be used for the alleviation of Peru, and for anyone interested in herbal respiratory problems, throat infections, remedies, you can visit local communities fever, dermatitis, skin infections , in either region, where you could do a trek and , and conjunctivitis. with locals or visit a shaman, a spiritual counselor, to learn more about these Sacha Inchi plants and their medicinal properties. (Plukenetia Below are eight medicinal plants that are volubilis) well-known and widely used in Peru. Sacha Inchi, which Uña de Gato (Uncaria guianensis) in Quechua means

n Peru n wild , is a Uña de gato translates to Cat’s Claw and tree that grows is an herb that grows in the Amazon of in the Amazon of Peru. Its common name refers to the Peru. The of the plant is eaten raw curved thorns of this woody vine that look like a or in the form of extra virgin oil. like claws. The inner bark and root have It is known for its incredibly high levels of been used for centuries in Peru because Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids—even more they contain high levels of alkaloids that than . It also contains A

Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary activate the immune system, reduce and E and amino acids. The health benefits Peru in Travel Culinary inflammation, protect against tumor of Sachi Inchi are numerous, including growth and and prevent blood pressure , prevention of gene mutations. It is also used for many certain types of cancer, hormonal balance, gastrointestinal problems and has antiviral alleviation of cardiovascular problems properties that can stop the spread of and the of bad cholesterol. . Uña de gato can be brewed as a drink or is often taken in the form of Muña (Minthostachys mollis) capsules or an extract in daily doses. Muña is a plant that grows in the regions Achiote (Bixa orellana) of Ayacucho, Puno and Cusco and has a pleasant flavor often compared to mint. Achiote is a small tree that grows in the You can easily find muña growing in the Amazon and the coast below 1400 meters Andes, where it is popularly served as elevation and has been cultivated since herbal tea alongside mate de coca. It has

96 97 inflammatory, antiviral and digestive fever and ulcers, though its medicinal high levels of calcium and phosphorous, Inca culture in Peru and the Andes and properties and also aids the body’s natural properties are still being studied. which makes it good for teeth and bones, continues to be used today in sacred healing and scarring process. Sangre de The sap can be applied directly to the preventing . Muña also aids by the Andean people. Apart from its Grado is frequently used as an antidiarrheal skin or the extract of SP-303 can be digestion and stomach pains and can treat religious uses, coca leaves have fourteen for , traveler’s diarrhea and AIDS. ingested as a pill. The proper dosage is intestinal infections and inflammation. alkaloids whose benefits include improved It has also been used to treat bites, an important factor when taking Sangre cognitive function, suppression of thirst open wounds, broken bones, infections, de Grado or any other herbal medicine. Maca () and , improved digestion, and Maca is a root increased energy and endurance. It also that is sometimes helps blood oxidation, which facilitates referred to as breathing at high altitudes and constricts Peruvian ginseng blood vessels to slow and stop bleeding. because of its It is an extremely high source of calcium, similar medicinal promoting strong teeth and bones. Mate properties de coca is a tea made with coca leaves and benefits, that is widely consumed in the Andes and though it is not of the gingseng family. offered to help altitude sickness, though It grows at high altitudes of the Andes the most effective way to experience and has been cultivated by the Andean these benefits is by the leaves. people for thousands of years. Ayahuasca (Banisteriopsis caapi)

n Peru n Maca has energizing and invigorating qualities and can be used to treat Though ayahuasca has received negative symptoms associated with anemia, media attention and the misleading label depression and chronic fatigue syndrome, of “hallucinogen”, the plant native to though it is most commonly touted for its the lower Amazon of Peru has been used aphrodisiac qualities as it boosts fertility in sacred ceremonies led by shamans and libido in both men and women. for centuries. The shaman prepares a Like ginseng, it is also known to improve drink using the Ayahuasca leaves that, Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary memory and cognitive function. when ingested, can cause visions and Peru in Travel Culinary a feeling of spiritual lucidity. It is not a You can use the maca root to brew drinks plant that should be used without the or it can be ground into a powder that correct guidance as it is supposed to you can mix into or food. The heal emotional wounds and increase root can also be baked or roasted and spirituality. It has been used to rehabilitate eaten with other food. (Maca crocante, people with addiction and depression. or crunchy maca flakes appeared in a dish of the gourmet at Casa Sangre de Grado (Croton lechleri) Aliaga that Aracari attended in 2013). Sangre de Grado, known as Dragon’s Coca (Erythroxylum coca) Blood for its dark red sap, is a plant that grows between 1200 and 3000 meters The coca plant has played an important in the Amazon of Peru. The sap contains Drying aromatic and role in the religion of the pre-Inca and a chemical called SP-303, which has anti- medicinal herbs for teas

98 99 About Aracari Travel Culinary Travel with Aracari Accredited by Condé Nast Traveler Aracari is the leading designer of culinary Magazine as one of Peru’s “Top Travel itineraries in Peru. Not only is their team Specialists” for six consecutive years and of travel experts well positioned for on Travel + Leisure’s A-List in 2010, 2011, recommending the best dining options to 2012, 2013 and 2014, Marisol Mosquera guests based on experience and insider has built a reputation for her unique tips on cutting edge restaurants, but they approach to travel in Peru and South design experiences that showcase the finest America since she founded Aracari in 1996. elements of the country’s gastronomy and Her endeavour since founding the company connect travelers with top personalities has been unprecedented in that she has in the world of Peruvian cuisine. cast a discerning eye over the region’s Possible tours include scouring a sprawling highlights, attractions and accommodation market for fresh produce before while forging a network of prominent preparing a traditional with a historians, archaeologists, artists and star chef, visiting an organic farm and dignitaries in the cities and destinations enjoying a meal made from the ’ that are of interest to travelers. produce, or simply indulging in a sample After almost two decades, Marisol tasting menu or cocktail demonstration and her Peru-based team utilize this at one of the best restaurants in Lima. All of the experiences detailed in this n Peru n specialist expertise to make unique experiences available to a distinguished book are available through Aracari. clientele, offering an authentic glance In 2015, Marisol Mosquera was listed as a into history, art and culture that would Trusted Travel Expert on travel specialist otherwise be simply unobtainable. Wendy Perrin’s website, wendyperrin. com. As a part of her collaboration with Wendy Perrin, Marisol published a guide to Peruvian cuisine, entitled Peru Culinary Travel I Travel Culinary Contributors for Food Lovers: Insider’s Guide. Peru in Travel Culinary Maria Julia Raffo, Adriana von Hagen, For enquiries about Peru cuisine trips Maureen Santucci, Tony Dunnell, James please contact [email protected]. Imbriani, Lauren Wright, Diana Bauza, Bianca Crousillat, Simon Ross-Gill. Photo credits: Pedro Chincoa, Erick Andía, Prom Peru Photo Library (Manchamantales, Enrique Castro-Mendívil, Flor Ruiz, Yayo López, José Cáceres, Gihan Tubbeh, Renzo Tasso, Juan Puelles, Sebastian Castañeda, Musuk Nolte, Richard Hirano.)

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