Northern Ecuador Hummingbird & Tanager Extravaganza
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NORTHERN ECUADOR HUMMINGBIRD & TANAGER EXTRAVAGANZA A RELAXED & EASY TOUR MARCH 13–22, 2020 Giant Hummingbird ©Paul J. Greenfield LEADER: PAUL GREENFIELD LIST COMPILED BY: PAUL GREENFIELD VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM NORTHERN ECUADOR HUMMINGBIRD & TANAGER EXTRAVAGANZA A RELAXED & EASY TOUR March 13–22, 2020 By Paul Greenfield This year’s Relaxed & Easy Northern Ecuador Hummingbird & Tanager Extravaganza in times of Coronavirus ended up presenting quite the challenge and a surprising variety of experiences that nobody could have ever predicted. Most of our participants had already cancelled days before the trip began. Our first morning initiated normally, as we spotted a Scrub Tanager and our first Vermilion Flycatcher, before heading off to higher elevation and then downslope to our first night’s destination. Our morning visit to Tambo Condor was enjoyable, with two Giant Hummingbirds, Shining Sunbeams, a pair of Black-tailed Trainbearers, a half-dozen super-active Sparkling Violetears, a male Great Sapphirewing, Black Flowerpiercers, a threesome of Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles, an American Kestrel, and Plain-colored Seedeaters among the first species we encountered. As we continued on our way, we made a second stop at Guango Lodge, located in the temperate zone on the east slope of the Andes. Here the hummingbirds kept us busy, with many Tourmaline Sunangels, Speckled Hummingbirds, at least two incredible male Long-tailed Sylphs, Tyrian Metaltails, a sharply-clad pair of Collared Incas, aggressive Buff-tailed Coronets, Chestnut-breasted Coronets, a Fawn-breasted Brilliant, a cool White-bellied Woodstar, and a Masked Flowerpiercer. We continued downslope to the town of Baeza, where we stopped for lunch at Kopal Restaurant; after submitting our orders, we walked a narrow trail to see what birds might show up. Some twenty minutes later we had picked up our first Groove-billed Ani, Olivaceous Siskins, Blue-gray Tanagers, Blue-necked Tanagers, and a beautiful and close Saffron-crowned Tanager. We reached Wildsumaco Lodge with little time to check out their nectar feeders, where we got our first looks at a few White-necked Jacobins as the sun went down. The following morning began at the moth light, which was relatively inactive, with the exception of a pair of Black-faced Antbirds and a pair of Peruvian Warbling-Antbirds that showed themselves nicely. Afterwards, we hung about the lodge’s broad deck to enjoy the hummingbirds that little-by-little showed up to feed at the nectar feeders and nearby Verbena flowers, with great studies of aggressive Brown Violetears, a female Black-throated Mango, adorable Wire-crested Thorntails, Peruvian (Booted) Racket-tails, Black-throated Brilliants, Gould’s Jewelfronts, tiny Gorgeted Woodstars, Violet-headed Hummingbirds, Napo Sabrewings, Fork-tailed Woodnymphs, several Many-spotted Hummingbirds, and dominant Golden-tailed Sapphires. Also, from the deck we saw a male Lined Antshrike and Red-billed Parrots. We later visited some forest nectar feeders. In the afternoon we visited the forest feeding station where we had excellent looks at a pair of Plain-backed Antpittas, an Ochre-breasted Antpitta, a Gray-cheeked Thrush, and a White-crowned Tapaculo; we saw a second tapaculo along the trail near the feeding station. We also saw Eastern and Western wood-pewees, Violaceous Jays, Swainson’s Thrushes, oropendolas, Canada Warblers, and Slate-throated Whitestart. Overall, bird activity was surprisingly down during our visit to Wildsumaco…something that is not readily explainable, aside from very sunny skies, which do not bring favorable birding conditions in the Andes. Alas, news began to filter in that the situation in Ecuador was beginning to get complicated due to the Coronavirus situation. At this point we were still rather isolated and planned to spend the following morning at Wildsumaco before Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Northern Ecuador Hummingbird & Tanager Extravaganza R&E, 2020 heading upslope to Cabañas San Isidro…and that was what we did. Our following morning added some new species: fairly large flocks of Chestnut-collared and White- collared swifts, more of the same hummingbirds, a soaring Barred Hawk, Gilded Barbet, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, a family of Plain Antvireos, Ornate Flycatcher, Olive-sided Flycatcher, a Boat-billed Flycatcher, Olivaceous Greenlet, Summer and Scarlet tanagers, Silver-beaked Tanagers, Bay-headed Tanager, and Bananaquit. We took to our drive upslope with caution, not knowing what the situation would be as we advanced. Luckily, there were no roadblocks or check-points to deal with, although one place we always stop at was closed due to the Coronavirus. We then made a few spur-of- the-moment stops en route and came up with some surprises. We came across a cool pair of Fasciated Tiger-Herons along a river near a local roadside restaurant. We made a stop at an about-to-open Narupa Reserve, where nectar feeders were quite active, with a Bronzy Inca and a few Violet-fronted Brilliants, along with 8 or so White-tailed Hillstars; a Fawn-breasted Tanager also showed up nearby. As we continued, we spotted a group of Cliff Flycatchers, another Fasciated Tiger-Heron, a Southern Lapwing, Spotted Sandpiper, Broad-winged Hawk, and some Black Phoebes. We arrived safe and sound at Cabañas San Isidro in time to watch some active hummingbirds, see a Glossy- black Thrush, and during dinner a pair of the San Isidro Mystery-Owl—an isolated population that has not been definitely identified to date—were glimpsed. That same evening, news began to come in that the situation was about to become more difficult for us—varied contradicting governmental decisions came vía Facebook and WhatsApp, and our trusty ground agent, Juan, began to make phone calls to attempt to understand the real situation. At first we began to think that we would have to just pack up and head towards Quito that same night, but it turned out that Ecuador’s president had announced that a national lock-down would be set for the following evening. We began to analyze our options, as only the first half of our trip was coming to an end. Our original plan was to bird our way to Quito the following day after lunch (another delicious one!) at Cabañas San Isidro. We then heard that the Mayor of Quito closed down the entire Metropolitan District from 5am the following morning onward! With heavy fines and even prison for those that ignore the ruling. CRAZY! That meant that we were, effectively, trapped—we would not be able to make it into Quito and, worse, continue to the Mindo area on to the west Andean slope. We ran several optional plans (probably now getting to Plan D or E at this point). After all Juan’s phone calls, we were unable to assess what the real-time situation would be, but we were able to reorganize our reservations—cancel Séptimo Paraíso, and book space at San José de Puembo (which was never in the plan). So our new plan was set—bird all morning at Cabañas San Isidro and, after lunch, head off for the unknown, hoping we would not be stopped en route, fined, arrested, or whatever…we assumed we would be able to talk our way out of any inconvenience based on our many past experiences in Ecuador. The following morning’s birding was great! We hung around the lodge’s deck, and it was awesome…many species showed up, attracted to moths and other insects that had been drawn to the lights that remain on all through the night, along with the hyperactive nectar feeders. It was hard to know where to look first; actually, we first went to a nearby blind and second moth light where we picked up different species. A White-bellied Antpitta scampered in for some splendid looks; Chestnut-capped Brushfinch foraged about the undergrowth; Three-striped Warblers clambered about; Canada Warblers, in their clean spring plumages, came forth; and an Oleaginous Hemispingus came in for close looks. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Northern Ecuador Hummingbird & Tanager Extravaganza R&E, 2020 Back at the restaurant deck, Lesser Violetears, some 5 Speckled Hummingbirds, Bronzy and Collared incas, a Buff-tailed Coronet, many Chestnut-breasted Coronets, Fawn- breasted Brilliants, and a female Gorgeted Woodstar graced the nectar feeders; a lovely and totally friendly pair of Masked Trogons offered endless looks; Steve went off to see a second White-bellied Antpitta; an obliging pair of Montane Woodcreepers worked the scattered trunks and poles; cute Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrants foraged about; Lily located a Cinnamon Flycatcher back up the main entrance trail; a Pale-edged Flycatcher and a pair of Golden-crowned Flycatchers were seen repeatedly; a female Barred Becard was seen up close; a Black-billed Peppershrike came in, singing loudly; a Brown-capped Vireo showed up; some 5 or so truly entertaining Inca (Green) Jays hung out, sounding off with their bizarre vocalizations; a Mountain Wren worked the bases of some tangled trunks; an unobtrusive Common Chlorospingus was spotted; a small and active band of Subtropical Caciques moved about actively; and a beautiful male Blackburnian Warbler showed-off its freshly molted plumage. As we pulled out of Cabañas San Isidro’s driveway, it was definitely unclear what lay ahead; would the controls and sanctions we were hearing about be in full swing? Would we be prohibited to complete our planned trip? Where would we have to spend the night…or the following nights? What did Government policy and COVID-19 have in store for us? As we ascended the Andes, we noted some vehicles (cars, buses, and trucks) moving in both directions, which gave us the curious feeling that the threatened controls had not been put in place, and this bcame more clear as we passed the 13,000 ft Papallacta Pass, where Quito’s Metropolitan District initiates.