<<

GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY /  1 / 74

Art Nouveau

1 Review 2

2 La Belle Époque 6

3 Artists 20

4 Elsewhere 51

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Review 2 / 74

1 Explain “Pictures of the Floating World.”

Review Ukiyo-e

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Review 3 / 74

1 Explain “Pictures of the Floating World.”

Review 2 Ukiyo-e What was “Japonsim,” where did it start and when?

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Review 4 / 74

1 Explain “Pictures of the Floating 3 World.” What made Hokusai famous? Review 2 Ukiyo-e What was “Japonsim,” where did it start and when?

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Review 5 / 74

WORKBOOK Working from his Brooklyn art studio, Japanese artist Takuji Hamanaka uses the same centuries-old techniques to make his contemporary woodblock prints that Hokusai and many others used to make their prints. Does his Japanese heritage give him a stronger line of access to the ukiyo-e process than a non-Japanese person? What about the fact that he’s working in Brooklyn, as opposed to a location with stronger ties to the heritage of ukiyo-e such as Kyoto, Tokyo (formerly called Edo), or another town in Japan? Is he devaluing the technique by using abstract imagery rather than traditional subjects and motifs?

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Takuji Hamanaka, Pour, 2019 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau 6 / 74

1871–1914 La Belle Époque ’s “Beautiful Epoch” was a time when the culture and the arts flourished.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Bal du moulin de la Galette, 1876 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 7 / 74

Economic Prosperity

• New products from around the world • People have more leisure time and the ability to enjoy ’s nightlife • Flourishing of the arts • Paris attracts expats in large numbers

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 8 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 , Waverly Cycles, circa 1897 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 9 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 World Fair of 1900 in Paris GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau 10 / 74

1890–1910 Art Nouveau Borrowing stylistic characteristics from Ukiyo-e, Art Nouveau was an international decorative style that flourished for two decades around the turn of the 20th century.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Victor Horta, Hôtel Tassel, Brussels, Belgium, 1894 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 11 / 74

Art Nouveau encompassed all the design arts

• architecture • dishes • furniture • spoons • product design • chairs • fashion • door frames • poster design • staircases • packaging • factories • • subway entrances • teapots • houses

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 12 / 74

As with the , it was held in the Art Nouveau period that aesthetic values should be combined with high standards of craftsmanship, and that works of art should be both beautiful and functional. The boundaries between fine art and the applied arts became blurred in the fields of furniture design, silverware and architecture, , graphic art, jewellery, fashion and glassware.

EUROPEANA

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 13 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Hector Guimard, Paris Métro entrance (Replica), Designed 1901, now in GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 14 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Hector Guimard, Paris Métro entrance, 1901, now at Toledo Museum of Art GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 15 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 16 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 17 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 18 / 74

1890–1910 Motifs • Vine tendrils • Flowers (rose) • Flowers (lily) • Birds (peacocks) • Female form Art Nouveau’s identifying visual quality is an organic, plantlike line.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Poster for Cafe Rajah, Henri Meunier, 1897 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / La Belle Époque 19 / 74

Early • Victorians sought solutions through established historical approaches • “Modernists” adopted a new international ornamental style • Elegant motifs aligned with nature and often distinguished by free and graceful lines.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Waverly Cycles, Alphonse Mucha, circa 1897. General Electric logo, 1892. General Electric logo, 1900. GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau 20 / 74

1890–1900 Poster Artists Nightlife was celebrated and perpetuated by the poster work of numerous Parisian artists who contributed to the citie’s visual culture and pushed the vision of Art Nouveau into the public sphere.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 21 / 74

1841–1917 Eugène Grasset • Important early link between Victorian style and Art Nouveau • Sympathetic to the Arts & Crafts aesthetic of William Morris • Worked for Sarah Bernhardt before her contract with Alphonse Mucha

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 22 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 23 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 24 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 25 / 74

1836–1932 Jules Chéret • Regarded as a master of Belle Époque poster art • “Father of the modern poster” • Drew directly onto lithographic stone • Innovative spattering technique • Depicted young liberated women enjoying life In France, the Belle Époque was epitomised by the of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec (1864-1901) and Jules Chéret (1836-1932), both of whom were influenced by Japanese Ukiyo-e prints. Chéret was a painter and lithographer who became celebrated as a master of Belle Époque poster art.

EUROPEANA

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 26 / 74

Posters and advertising became a dominant means of mass communication throughout Europe at the end of the 19th century. The newly developed three-stone process made dazzling colours available and advertising became a popular medium for many artists.

EUROPEANA

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Jules Chéret GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 27 / 74

This exuberant image of the American dancer Loie Fuller captures the spirit of sensuality and excitement in the cabaret culture of fin-de-siècle Paris. Fuller was an important attraction at the 1900 Paris world’s fair, embodying Art Nouveau with her innovative choreography and diaphanous silk costumes illuminated by multicolored electric lights.

THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Jules Chéret, Folies-Bergère, La Loïe Fuller, 1893 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 28 / 74

1862–1928 Loie Fuller • American actress and dancer • Pioneer of both modern and theatrical lighting techniques • Moved to Paris in 1892 seeking artistic appreciation she couldn’t get in the • Performed regularly at Folies Bergères in Paris

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 29 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 30 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Loie Fuller, Danse Serpentine, filmed by the Lumière Brothers, 1897 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 31 / 74

1864–1901 Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec had turned obsessively to drawing and after breaking both hips in an accident at age thirteen.

Further growth of his legs was stunted, leaving him crippled.

He became a master draftsman in the academic tradition after moving to Paris two years later.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 32 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 33 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 34 / 74

Japanese art, , and Degas’s design and contour were big influences on him.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Henri De Toulouse-Lautrec in the studio (left), Edgar Degas, L’etoile (right) GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 35 / 74

Drawing directly on the lithographic stone, he often worked from memory with no sketches and used an old toothbrush that he always carried to achieve tonal effects through a splatter technique.

He haunted Paris cabarets and bordellos, watching, drawing, and developing a journalistic, illustrative style that captured the night life of la belle époque (the beautiful era), a term used to describe glittering late- nineteenth-century Paris.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 36 / 74

1859–1923 Théophile-Alexandre Steinlen • Born in Lausanne, Switzerland • Moved Montmartre Quarter of Paris with his wife in their early twenties • Became associated with Le Chat Noir where he received numerous poster commissions • His daughter Colette was featured in much of his work

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 37 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 38 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 39 / 74

1860–1939 Alphonse Mucha Mucha’s distinct illustrative approach involving beautiful young women surrounded by lush flowers set him apart as the preeminent practitioner of the Art Nouveau style.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Alphonse Mucha, Job Cigarettes Advertisement, 1898 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 40 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 41 / 74

Mucha’s advertisement for the Job cigarette company illustrates the idea that “sex sells.” A voluptuous woman holds a lit cigarette, as her closed eyes and parted lips, suggested ecstasy. The very fact that this woman is smoking could be seen as scandalous, as few respectable women of the time would smoke in public.

EUROPEANA

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 42 / 74

1894 On Christmas Eve, Mucha was at the Lemerciers’ company, dutifully correcting proofs for a friend who had taken a holiday.

Suddenly the printing firm’s manager burst into the room, upset because the famous actress Sarah Bernhardt was demanding a new poster for the play Gismonda by New Year’s Day.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 43 / 74

1894 • Elongated Grasset’s format • Added Byzantine-inspired mosaics as background motifs • Produced a poster totally distinct from any of his prior work • Printed in two carefully registered sheets • Bottom half unfinished

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 44 / 74

1894 Sarah Bernhardt, who had not been pleased with Grasset’s Joan of Arc poster or many other posters for her performances, felt that Mucha’s Gismonda poster expressed her so well graphically that she signed him to a six-year contract for sets, costumes, jewelry, and nine more posters.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 45 / 74

Mucha’s women project an archetypal sense of unreality.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 46 / 74

Exotic and sensuous while retaining an aura of innocence, they express no specific age, nationality, or historical period. His stylized hair patterns became a hallmark of the era.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 47 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 48 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 49 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Poster Artists 50 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau 51 / 74

Elsewhere

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau 52 / 74

1866-1945 Hans Christiansen • German designer, artist, illustrator • Produced vivid cover designs with distinctive hand-lettered fonts. • Moved to Paris in 1895 to study art • Designed wallpaper patterns, tapestries, ceramics and glass windows.

I take my work as an artist as general as possible: I want to paint a portrait but can also design a piece of furniture; I draw cartoons but also wallpapers, posters; I design stained glass windows but also occasionally a screen.

HANS CHRISTIANSEN

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Hans Christiansen, Andromeda, draft for title page of Jugend, 1898 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 53 / 74

1868–1940 Peter Behrens The German artist, architect, and designer Peter Behrens played a major role in charting a course for design in the first decade of the new century.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 54 / 74

1910–1914 Henry van de Velde • Belgian Architect, industrial designer, and graphic designer • Practiced in the Art Nouveau style • Director, Weimar Arts and Crafts School

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Henry van de Velde, Grand Ducal Art School, staircase, built 1904 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 55 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Henry van de Velde, (left) Tropon Poster, 1898, (right) Ruth Book Cover, 1899 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 56 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Henry van de Velde, circa 1900 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 57 / 74

1872–1898 Arthur Mackmurdo • English artist and designer • Participant in England’s Arts & Crafts Movement along with William Morris • Works with Century Guild of artists, designers, printers, and publishers • Produces one of the earliest examples of Art Nouveau

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 Arthur Mackmurdo, Wren’s City Churches, 1883 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 58 / 74

1872–1898 A strange cult figure, he was intensely prolific for five years before dying of tuberculosis at age twenty-six.

• English illustrator, late Victorian era • Subversive approach take on Arts & Crafts styling • Contributed to the emerging English Art Nouveau style • Moved to Paris in 1892 after encouragement from Edward Burne-Jones (a close friend of William Morris)

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 59 / 74

Beardsley’s reputation was established by an of Salome holding the head of John the Baptist, published in the first edition of The Studio.

EUROPEANA

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 60 / 74

Aubrey Beardsley was the enfant terrible of art nouveau, with his striking pen line, vibrant black- and-white work, and shockingly exotic imagery.

MEGGS

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 61 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 62 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 William Morris, 1892 (left), Aubrey Beardsley, 1893 (right) GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 63 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 64 / 74

“The black spot” was the name given to compositions based on a dominant black form.

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 65 / 74

1,874 – 1,912 Ethel Reed American

An important American and book designer, Ethel Reed’s short but vibrant career was cut short after a visit to the .

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 66 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 67 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 68 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 69 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 70 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 71 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 72 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 73 / 74

© Kevin Woodland, 2020 (left) Miss Ethel Reed by Laura Coombs Hill, 1880 GRAPHIC DESIGN HISTORY / Art Nouveau / Elsewhere 74 / 74

WORKBOOK Practitioners of Art Nouveau were predominantly male, yet they regularly featured imagery of idealized and fantastical women in their artwork. How should we think about these works of art through a contemporary viewpoint, one that is becoming more conscious of issues relating to physical appearances and the exploitation of idealized human beauty?

© Kevin Woodland, 2020