Connecting Two Mexican Provinces Mules and Men Packing the Train Witness It is 1829, eight years after Mexico gained In 1829, La Villa Real de Santa Fe de San Francisco Other trade parties soon followed. Some found The lands crossed by the Old Spanish Trail were Commerce along the Old Spanish Trail began Along the Old Spanish Trail sound animals, good packing independence from Spain. New Mexican traders de Asis, provincial capital of , was just a alternative routes that together became known as alluring. For decades missionaries, fur trappers, as a legitimate barter for horses and mules, but equipment, and a capable crew were the prerequisites of a

...the longest, travel overland to establish new commercial dusty frontier town that sheltered a mix of Spanish the Old Spanish Trail. It took Armijo’s group about 12 American Indians, and others ventured repeatedly some traders and adventurers found it easier to successful pack train. The success of the trip depended on relations with frontier settlements in . colonial families, newer Mexican arrivals, displaced weeks to reach California and six weeks to return on into and across the vast territory between New steal livestock than to obtain it legally. Americans the skills and abilities of those who packed and drove the crookedest, most They carry locally produced merchandise to Indians, and a small, but growing number of the trail historians LeRoy and Ann Hafen called, “the Mexico and California. claiming to be beaver trappers, fugitive Indians animals that carried the merchandise. exchange for mules and horses. Items include Americans. Over 1,000 miles to the west, the Pueblo longest, crookedest, most arduous pack mule route in from the missions, gentile Indians from the frontier, arduous pack mule serapes, blankets, ponchos, and socks; a variety of de la Reina de los Angeles was an even smaller ranch the history of America.” By the time Armijo started his trip, New Mexican and renegade New Mexicans teamed together to New Mexicans had a well-deserved reputation as excellent hides – gamuzas (chamois), buffalo robes, bear and town. Consisting of little more than a church and traders were familiar with the routes others had gather horses and mules to take illegally back to horsemen and muleteers. American eyewitnesses marveled route in the beaver skins; as well as hats, shawls, and quilts. plaza, and a few homes and government buildings, followed and utilized the cumulative geographic New Mexico. In reaction to these widespread raids, at the dexterity and skill with which they harnessed and knowledge gained from previous expeditions. it was the largest Mexican community in an area California authorities tried to recapture the stock and adjusted packs of merchandise. Experienced travelers punish the thieves but were never able to control the Old Spanish National Historic Trail New Mexico, , , , , California Bureau of Land Management history of America... By this time Santa Fe is witnessing increased characterized by dispersed ranches, decaying Spanish suggested that New Mexicans should always be used as The trips were arduous. Dramatically changing terrain illicit trade.

economic activity brought on by successful missions, and Indian villages. teamsters for they “can catch up and roll up in half the time Jeanne Howerton Ben Wittick, Palace of the Governors (NMHM/DCA), 015870 Photo Archives and climate posed major challenges. Caravans lost American and Mexican trade. Large quantities of their way, suffered from thirst, and were forced to the average person does.” manufactured products arrive in New Mexico from During the winter of 1829-1830, Antonio Armijo led eat some of their pack mules when supplies ran out. the eastern along the Santa Fe Trail. a caravan of 60 men and 100 pack mules from New Animals also suffered in the harsh desert environment The line of march of this strange cavalcade occupied Packers were always in demand and utilized a variety The Equipment Illegal Captivity The Railroad and the End of the Trail Many goods are also traveling along El Camino Mexico to Mission San Gabriel in California, east of and endured severe weather. an extent of more than a mile...Near this motley of skills. They secured loads with intricate knots, splices Real de Tierra Adentro to and from the interior Los Angeles. The caravan carried woolen rugs and crowd we sojourned for one night...Their pack-saddles and hitches; they acted as veterinarians and blacksmiths. While the mule was the heart of the Long before traders ventured into this region, Beginning in the mid-1840s, new routes such as of Mexico. blankets produced in New Mexico to trade for horses and bales had been taken off and carefully piled, so They estimated the safe carrying capacity of a mule, and transportation system, the packing American Indians traveled and traded along many wagon roads carried troops fighting in the Mexican- and mules. as not only to protect them from damp, but to form identified and treated animals suffering from improperly equipment played an equally significant role. of the paths that the trade caravans later followed. American War, pioneers bound for California, miners View of Santa Fe in 1846 by John W. Abert a sort of barricade or fort for their owner. From balanced loads. They timed the travel day to stop at a The aparejo (packsaddle) was the central Petroglyphs show us that the mule caravans were joining the gold rush, and still more traders into the one side to the other of these little corrals of goods meadow or creek bottom that provided good forage. piece of gear and carried heavy, odd-sized witnessed by American Indians along the route. West. A few notable Americans used the trail. In items safely over long distances without a Mexican blanket was stretched, under which the Packers also had to be able to lift heavy loads, be good Indian guides had lengthy contact with Mexican 1847 and 1848, Kit Carson carried military dispatches injuring the animal. It was described by and American traders. east along the Old Spanish Trail. Military attaché trader lay smoking his cigarrito… farriers, and “accomplish marvels with the axe and screw one observer as “nearer to what I consider George Brewerton kept a detailed account of his trip. Lieutenant George Brewerton, 1848 key and a young sapling for a lever.” perfection in a pack saddle, than any other form of pack saddle yet invented.” Trade sometimes involved the illegal exchange John C. Frémont led U.S. government-sponsored of horses, mules, and even human beings. Some exploratory survey trips to plan for the advent of Beasts of Burden captives, including American Indians, Spaniards, railroads in the West. and Mexicans were ransomed at the frequent Mules had incredible strength and endurance, trade fairs that characterized the western economy. By 1869, however, a rail route connected the plains fared better than horses where water was The slave trade changed the lifeways of American of the Midwest and San Francisco Bay. Portions scarce and forage poor, and recovered more Indians through depopulation and loss of traditional of the Old Spanish Trail evolved into wagon roads rapidly after periods of hardship. Their hard and knowledge. Human captivity was part of the reality for local travel, but the days of cross-country mule small hoofs withstood the shock and abrasion of the West, affecting all who lived in the region. caravans on the Old Spanish Trail had ended. of rocky, boulder-strewn terrain.

Detail, San Gabriel Mission, 1832, by Ferdinand Deppe Red Pass, California Courtesy Sánta Barbara Mission Archive -Library Courtesy Palace of the Governors Photo Archives (NMHM/DCA), 155329 Courtesy Laws Railroad Museum Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Nevada Official Map and Guide Old Spanish Trail Old Spanish Trail For the next 20 years caravans followed the various routes of the Old Spanish Trail to California. Typical commercial activities include the exchange of New Mexican woven goods for horses and mules. 80 80 ive H Snak e R r u tle m Green it b L o R iver ld t River Salt Lake City ampa River The Northern Route: The North Branch: Y 25 Old Spanish National Historic Trail First blazed by William Wolfskill and George This route followed well-known trapper and trade routes north through ver Ri C. Yount in 1831, this route veered northwest the Rio GrandeWhite gorge to Taos and into southern Colorado. It then went EARLY EXPLORATIONS TRAIL MILESTONES Three trails, including the Old Spanish Trail, North Branch from Abiquiú through Southern Colorado and 15 west through Cochetopa Pass, largely open during the winter when merged in Santa Fe. El Camino Real de Tierra It is difficult to see traces of the trail in the • Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation The Old Spanish National Historic Trail was North central Utah. It avoided the rugged canyons of other passes were snowed in and up the Gunnison River valley, rejoining r Denver 1598…… Don Juan de Oñate establishes San Juan de 1776…… Franciscan priests, Francisco Atanasio 1829…… Antonio Armijo leads the first trade caravan e modern landscape. Most of the routes of the Area designated by Congress in 2002. The trail runs Adentro (the Royal Road to the Interior Lands) Northern Route 70 the Colorado River that the Armijo party had i v the Northern Route near present-day Green River, Utah. los Caballeros (near modern Ohkay Owingeh Domínguez and Francisco Silvestre Vélez de from Abiquiú to Los Angeles, opening the Old R ver h o Ri Old Spanish Trail have been reclaimed by nature • Museum, Fort Garland through New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona, Utah, was a wagon road between Mexico City and c ad t or Pueblo), the first Spanish settlement in New Mexico. Escalante follow Rivera’s route to the Great Spanish Trail. Armijo Route encountered and took advantage of the better i ol P C or changed by later use. However, some of the Fort Uncompaghre, Delta Nevada and California. The Bureau of Land • Santa Fe. The Santa Fe Trail, an international r Basin in western Utah. e water and pasture resources across central Utah n iv a Mojave Road R S landmarks that guided trail travelers can still be • Great Sand Dunes National Park & Preserve Management and the National Park Service wagon route that crossed the plains, linked 1610…… Don Pedro de Peralta founds Santa Fe, the new 1831…… William Wolfskill and George C. Yount blaze a e s before returning to the Colorado River and e Salina Green River Grand Junction seen today. • Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area administer the trail together to encourage capital of New Mexico. 1781…… Spanish colonials establish El Pueblo de la more northern route that ascends into central Missouri with Santa Fe. e R Armijo’s route not far from Las Vegas. • McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area preservation and public use. Reina de los Angeles in California. Utah before heading southwest into California. 70 D olo r The following sites along the trail offer the Southern Ute Cultural Center and Museum, 1765…… Juan María Antonio Rivera leads two parties The trails witnessed dramatic growth in use e • s G u Moab R nn Gunnison from New Mexico to explore southwestern 1821…… Mexico gains independence from Spain. 1834…… José Avieta and 125 men arrive at Los Angeles NEVADA i i iver opportunity to experience some of the natural Ignacio These two federal agencies work in close after 1821, when a large and broad array of v s e on R Colorado and southeastern Utah. carrying 1,645 serapes, 314 blankets, and other F r merchandise came to New Mexico from the re r landscapes crossed by the trail. They are only a • Ute Museum and Memorial Site, Montrose partnership with the Old Spanish Trail 1825…… builds Fort Uncompahgre woolen goods. mont Rive sh small sampling of places you can visit associated Association, American Indian tribes, state, county,

1774…… Father Francisco Hermenegildo Garcés sets out (Fort Robidoux) near present-day Delta, Colorado, Eastern United States and Europe. Merchants a W took many of these products further into Mexico with the trail. You can learn more by visiting the Nevada: and municipal governmental agencies, private

r y from southern Arizona to explore a path to where Indians and traders bargained for goods. 1837…… José María Chávez and family settle in what became e e ll COLORADO v a official trail websites. landowners, nonprofit groups, and many others. the California missions. He follows the Mojave known as the Chávez Ravine in Los Angeles. along El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro. i V R UTAH e w River and reaches Mission San Gabriel. 1826…… Jeddediah S. Smith leads a small party of it o Enoch Rio Gran • Lake Mead National Recreation Area h d de a Riv fur trappers westward from Cache Valley, Utah. 1839…… José Antonio Salazar arrives in California at the W e er Arizona: • Lost City Museum, Overton For more information, including more site M head of a group of 75 men; Francisco Quintana iver • Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Park locations and trip planning tools, please visit San Jua R n n carries domestic manufactures worth $78.25. O gin Rive R Durango a • Glen Canyon National Recreation Area • Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area our official trail websites: w ir r i er u V v J San Luis All routes came together at Forke of Roads, n n S a • Grand Canyon/Parashant National • Springs Preserve, Las Vegas 1841…… Francisco Estevan Vigil arrives at Los Angeles and s La Plata

east of present-dayr Barstow in theR Mojave Rive i Monument Bureau of Land Management presents a passport and instructions describing s v Page g’ e Fredonia Aztec desert, and then crossed Cajon Passr between in • Navajo National Monument New Mexico: Utah State Office the duties and responsibilities of a commander of K Teec Nos Pos Dominguez-Escalante, 1776-1777 the San Gabriel and San Bernadino Mountains Mesquite Kayenta Pipe Spring National Monument www.blm.gov/ut Francisco Garces, 1774 COLORADO a caravan. • to Coastal California. After negotiating the C Jedediah Smith, 1826-1827 UTAH a • Aztec Ruins National Monument The Old Spanish Trail’s rugged terrain discouraged iver Taos n pass, traders had an easy two to three days o R a Northern Route, 1831 1842…… A party of 40 New Mexicans from Abiquiú settles orad d California: • Palace of the Governors and New Mexico National Park Service l i the use of wagons. It was always a pack route, Co a Las Vegas 25 n Mojave Road, 1826 at Agua Mansa and Politana in California; travel to the San Gabriel Mission and beyond to R History Museum, Santa Fe National Trails Intermountain Region

mainly used by men and mules. Abiquiu i

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Armijo Route, 1829 r The Armijo Route:

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Los Angeles. e

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v Desert Discovery Center, Barstow Rio Grande Gorge Visitor Center, Taos www.nps.gov/olsp i North Branch, 1848 • •

passports carrying 4,150 California animals back R The first complete trip across the trail began in L Tecopa i o t • El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historical • Spanish Colonial Art Museum, Santa Fe t

Traders used different routes from trip to trip, d to New Mexico. l

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NEVADA C ic depending on weather and water. Caravans o

er o followed well-known trails northwest to the San o v C ern Ri 15 lo 1843…… Juan Arce hauls merchandise worth $487.50. left New Mexico in the late summer or fall and K rad • Mission San Gabriel, San Gabriel Utah: Old Spanish Trail Association CALIFORNIA Searchlight o Ri Juan River, then nearly due west to the Virgin CALIFORNIA ver • Mojave National Preserve www.oldspanishtrail.org returned from California in the spring. Early 40 River. They used the Crossing of the Fathers, To Franklin,Pecos Missouri 1844…… Francisco Rael carries domestic manufactures and Riv winter snows blocked mountain passes and 5 er • Valley Museum, Barstow • Arches National Park Taos sheep worth $1,748. cut into rock canyon wall some 75 years earlier 40 via the Santa Fe Trail erde Ri • San Bernardino County Museum, Redlands • Beaver Wash Dam National Conservation Area travelers chose their routes accordingly. In the V ve by the Domínguez-Escalante party. Armijo’s 800 mi 1287 km r • Grand Staircase-Escalante National ARIZONA 1846…… The Mexican-American War begins. spring, traders worried about late snows and Barstow caravan went down the Muddy River and across Abiquiu The Mojave Road: Colorado: Monument Santa Fe floods. On every trip, they worried about water the Mojave Desert to the Amargosa and Mojave To Mexico City, Mexico A 188-mile crossing of the Mojave Desert long • John Wesley Powell River History Museum, 1848…… Treaty of Guadalupe-Hidalgo ends Mexican- and forage, often racing to beat other caravans to ARIZONA Rivers, through Cajon Pass and down to Mission via El Camino Real Los Angeles American War; the Southwest becomes U.S. used by area Indians and by Spanish explorers 17 • Anasazi Heritage Center/Canyons of the Green River known sources. San Gabriel. de Tierra Adentro territory; begins and missionaries, it was first traveled by Jedediah Ancients National Monument Museum of the San Rafael, Castle Dale NEW MEXICO Los Angeles • San Bernardino r 1242 mi 2000 km e Smith, an American trapper,v in 1826. San Gabriel i • Colorado National Monument • Dan O’Leary Museum, Moab

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1849…… Commercial caravans across the Old Spanish o Salt 215 Ri Curecanti National Recreation Area Iron Mission State Park, Cedar City

d v • • North er Trail largely cease as more direct transportation a 0 10 20 30 40 50 100 r 10 o SCALE IN MILES routes develop l o 25 C Phoenix NEW MEXICO Gila River Earlier explorations provided essential knowledge about the lands and cultures between Santa Fe and Los Angeles. 2002…… The Old Spanish National Historic Trail is As trading opportunities opened up, traders sought the quickest and safest route. designated by Congress 5

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