april 22, 2010 meridiana restaurant Savor The Food and ImmerSe YourSelF In the CulTure an EvenIng in SicilY this evening is presented by la rosaworks, llC, gianni nicolosi and meridiana restaurant with sponsors Ciclismo Classico, Case Del Golfo, Colombo Marsala, Krea Publishing, new York City Sicilian Food, Wine and Travel Group, Prutch Family Imports, Tutto Sicily.com, Sikania Magazine, SoulofSiciliy.com an EvenIng “...aridly undulating to the horizon i na prSIlici 22, 2010 lY an evenIng oF SICIlIan Food, in hillock after hillock, wIne & CulTure comfortless and irrational, featuring with no lines that the mind could grasp, P a five-course dinner with wines conceived apparently in a delerious P a tasting of new products from Tutto Sicilia P a performance by recording artist michela musolino moment of creation; P a reading by renowned author gioia Timpanelli P and a multimedia exhibit by Karen la rosa a sea suddenly petrified when a change of wind merIdIana reSTauranT 2756 Broadway (106th Street) had flung the waves into a frenzy.” new York, nY 10025 From The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa aprIl 22, 2010 1 The Intense Flavors and Fragrances of Sicily by Giovanna Bellia La Marca ith increasingly greater reducing condiments to the foods’ own numbers of people visiting juices, and adding a savory mixture of fresh WSicily to enjoy the history of aromatic herbs chopped and mixed with the island, the ancient Greek temples, the good olive oil, salt, and sesame seeds. landscape with all its hill towns, the natural The appeal that Sicilian cooking has for beauty of the mountains, the sandy beaches, us today is that it is a simple, flavorful, and the beautiful cities, visitors rave about unpretentious cuisine dependent on the delicious food of this region of Italy. At a uncompromisingly fresh ingredients in time of great interest in healthful, nutritious, season and at the peak of flavor. The and appealingly interesting foods, the techniques of everyday cooking are simple cooking of Sicily provides a wealth of tasty and are aimed at preserving the flavor, and wholesome recipes. Sicily is the largest texture, and the wholesomeness of the fresh island in the Mediterranean Sea, and its ingredients. The Sicilian cook’s ingenuity is cuisine is among the oldest in Europe, a fact his or her greatest asset. Many recipes and that is amply documented in the history of variations can be made from the humblest the island. vegetables, elevating them to holiday fare. Four hundred years before the birth of There are wonderful recipes that are Christ, Plato was engaged by the Tyrant made to celebrate the various holidays of of Syracuse, Sicily, as the teacher for his the year. Easter Sunday/Monday offers a son Dionisius the Younger. Plato tutored double celebration. The centerpiece of the young man for three months before the Easter Sunday menu is the traditional returning to Greece. Plato deplored the ‘mpanata ri agnieddu, a delectable lamb time and attention that was devoted to the pie that will reward the adventurous cook preparation and consumption of food in who is willing to try it. This lamb pie is Sicily, and he was distressed by the Sicilian’s made with a bread crust that encloses well- love for food. He was convinced that in seasoned lamb stewing meat, bones and all. the midst of such decadence and self- The meat juices soak into the bottom crust indulgence, the youth would surely come as the pie slowly cools, making it a very to no good. Plato must not have disliked flavorful and tasty morsel. The Easter feast desserts, because he forgave the Sicilians continues on Monday, when people pack a for their sweet tooth, conceding that sweets delicious lunch and head for the country or were the great contribution of the Sicilian more commonly, to their vacation home in gastronomy to the ancient world. the countryside or at the nearest beach to Sicilians knew about “nouvelle cuisine” celebrate Pasquetta. 2,300 years ago when Archestrato, the Sicily, which in ancient Roman times was James Beard of his time, cautioned against called the “granary of the Italic peninsula,” making sauces too rich. He recommended still produces some of the best durum 2 an evenIng in sicily in manhattan aprIl 22, 2010 3 include marzipan fruits; ricotta-filled cannoli; spectacular cakes decorated with The Soul of Sicily candied fruits; cookies filled with dried fruits, nuts, and honey; and perhaps the best known dessert, granita, a smooth refreshing By Renee Restivo fruit ice that can be made at home quite easily and with fantastic results. My grandmothers, Concettina and Milina, always said that Sicilians would eat well if they had eggs, flour, legumes, and fresh vegetables. Historically, these simple ingredients were the mainstays of Sicilian cooking. Ingredients need not be expensive, and cooking techniques needn’t be complicated in order to eat well. To raise this simple cooking to cuisine, I would add good olive oil to the list, the best cold- pressed extra-virgin olive oil you can afford to buy. I grew up watching my mother, father, and grandmothers making feasts out of the most humble and inexpensive ingredients. Sicilian dishes have great versatility, and are easy to make. Our sauces utilize flavorful and aromatic cooking juices and we don’t use stocks for our soups because we depend estivo on the fresh ingredients, a sprinkle of salt, R and a drizzle of excellent extra virgin olive oil Renee to make all the difference. veryone likes to travel. There are cooking in their blood and in their own wheat in Italy. Bread and pasta continue Excerpted from Sicilian Feasts with permission so many things to see and do and homes. Eat fabulous food and drink great to be important to the daily diet, and are of the author. Giovanna Bellia La Marca, Ethere are many ways to go. While wine. Then you will know something about of excellent quality. Rice, although not as a native of Ragusa and former teacher at some people prefer group tours, others this great island. Food is so important important a food as it is in the northern Bronx Science High School, is the author of plan for themselves; some travel for sport, in Sicily. In fact, long, long ago, Plato provinces, nevertheless appears in some Sicilian Feasts and Language and Travel others for relaxation. Sicily lends itself to all commented that the Sicilians build things as very special dishes. The most memorable Guide to Sicily. She teaches Sicilian cooking at kinds of travel. Visitors will find beautiful if they will live forever, and eat like they will for those who have traveled to Sicily the Institute of Culinary Education and gives beaches, verdant hills for biking and even a die tomorrow! How true. is Arancini, a very popular finger food. monthly tours of Arthur Avenue. Giovanna was fantastic new resort, abundant history and Come to Noto with me. I will introduce Arancini are rice balls stuffed with cheese or given a “Ragusani nel Mondo” award by her architecture. Personally, I believe that if you you to some of the people who care deeply meat, covered with bread crumbs, and deep native city of Ragusa, Sicily, for professional want to get to know a place, you have to about food and wine and their land. These fried to a golden orange, hence the name achievements in the United States, only the meet the people. You have to eat what they are some of my friends: that means “little oranges.” second woman to be so honored. eat and understand how it arrived on your Elena is one of Sicily’s many incredible The Sicilian dessert table is a delight for plate. Visit the vineyard, the honey farm, home cooks -- baking a hundred home- the eye as well as for the palate. Beautiful the cove as it receives the day’s catch. Watch made pizzas in a wood burning oven in a and delicious desserts are known and the cheese maker. Meet the farmers and few hours is just an ordinary day for her! appreciated all over the world. They fishermen. Cook with the people who have Corrado is a historian, storyteller, singer, 4 an evenIng in sicily in manhattan aprIl 22, 2010 5 mythology lover, father and musician PESCE SPADA AI PISTACCHI were perfect for traveling and cooking 1 large red onion among other things. He never leaves home DI BRONTE because they did not require refrigeration 1/2 cup of cured black olives without his collection of saints in his wallet Swordfish with Pistacchio from Bronte for long journeys. extra virgin, cold-pressed olive oil -- there is a Saint for just about every town The secret to this recipe is that the sea salt and pepper in Sicily. 8 1/4 inch thick pieces of swordfish tomatoes must be the absolute most Mariangela is a painter who speaks about 2 cloves of garlic dolci you can find. In Sicily, these would Trim stalks and tough outer leaves from Sicily like a poet. She’s lived in the Sicilian 1/4 cup of fresh pancarre (sandwich bread) be pachino tomatoes, which are sold at fennel (save them for making vegetable countryside ever since she fell in love with parsley gourmet stores in Northern Italy for around stock). Remove top leaves and set aside it over 20 years ago. Her late husband Hans 1/2 cup pistacchi di Bronte 4 Euros per kilo. for garnish. Cut bulbs in half lengthwise was a pioneer in organic agriculture. Parmigiano 1 cup extra virgin olive oil and remove the tough core. Slice each half Pippo makes his own grappa with 1 orange (Sicilian blood orange if possible) 4 garlic cloves (chopped or minced fine) crosswise as thinly as possible, resulting in mandarino (you must try some).