ing to the Western Wall and someone looking you Benedictine Monk, who is educated in restaurant and | straight in the face and saying: "Two slices to go!" hotel management, has devoted himself entirely to serving the public. He describes his clientele as "not j Now when I pass a Pizza Shop here in New York my just customers but friends." throat tightens and my eyes moisten, for I am trans- ported to and my wonderful year as Queen "Yet how can you have a Chinese restaurant with- in the Kingdom of Cheese and Tomato sauce. out pork?" cries one of our skeptics. It's Mr. John- son's personal touch which is at the heart of the restaurant's success. "Simple," replies Mr. Haskell You glatt, you don't look glatt Kronenberg, the night manager. "We just substitute Hannah Koevary other meats for pork." And, in fact, one satisfied customer who is accustomed to the finest delicacies In the old days if you were hungry, kosher, and in the a pig can offer swore that he enjoyed the food just mood for Italian or Chinese food you had a problem. the same. So if you're kosher and don't want to * What did you do? Buy a huge hat and sunglasses, turn make the trip to China, you can get the real thing up your collar, enter Mama Leone's or Sun Luck East together with your rabbi's permission at Moshe and pray no one noticed you. Or did you imagine how Peking. good it could be and keep your mouth sealed with the But progress does not stop here. All over the city O-U-stamp? Well, now your troubles are over. You can there are a score of off-beat Jewish restaurants make a legitimate "Motzi" over real garlic and (Jerusalem East, Shaing-Chai), to suit every appetite. "bench" after chop suey. Don't say it's impossible; You no longer have to drool at MacDonalds, you can New York has its own Kosher (Glatt) Italian restaurant drive into a Kosher King, Kosher Country, or a called Luigi Goldstein (located at 72-24 Main Street, McDavid's, all over the metropolitan area. Queens.) You can order anything from Antipasto and Canaloni to Chicken Cacciatore and Veal Serentino. So from now on — being kosher means never having Here, you can get the usual Jewish heartburn but with to say, "I'm sorry, you know I can't eat that." an Italian accent. Skeptics among the gourmands will surely raise an eyebrow and say, "you've gotta be ... but others say about jewish ... kidding! After all, how can you make Lasagne without the cheese? " At Goldstein's they have an answer for This is in answer to your letter dated December 23, everything. Thanks to the advances of modern science 1974 inquiring into the question of what makes Levy's a crack team of chemists are now experimenting with Jewish "Jewish". Parve cheese. Until it's on the market Luigi's Lasagne We are in the baking business for close to one hundred is minus the cheese, but once you taste it you won't years and the methods and formulae employed then in know it's missing. What makes the food truly Italian the preparation and baking processes are still in opera- is the manner in which they cook the veal and add the tion today. spice. In fact, their food is so genuine that they attract non-Jews and even Moslems who can't eat pork. So We assume that the bread can be characterized as jew- when you're in the mood for Ravioli Bolognaisse or ish since the concepts we use were brought to this Zucchini Freit you can eat it and not worry about it country from the old countries basically involving as a next Yom Kippur. base for each dough a "live sour" that is in a constant state of self-perpetuation by adding rye and For elegant Kosher Chinese dining fit for a king or water with meticulous care. Also this bread is baked The Chairman, stop by at Moshe Peking, where you on a hearth and not in pans thus rendering it typical of can eat Moo Goo Gai Pan and Mandarin Duck or Tim the way bread was baked in ancient days. Suym Gai Kow, and Chicken Dow Chin. Currently celebrating its first anniversary, at its stylish midtown This explains how we bake our bread in the tradition location at 40 West 37th Street, Moshe Peking has of the old world, but what makes it "jewish" is that earned a reputation for not only what it serves, but the generation of jewish people who settled here many how it serves it. Here, Glatt Kosher Jews sit side by years ago like Henry S. Levy, our founder, determined side with out-of-town Gentile businessmen. But why? to provide the others who came here from the same As the General Manager and Maitre D' Nathan John- general region with the kind of bread they were accus- son said, "The goyim respect Rabinnical supervi- tomed to eating in the old country. That particular , sion." Mr. Johnson, a former concert pianist and region would include Russia, Poland, Germany,

224 Austria, Roumania, etc. where in the numerous dis- 2. Fermentation: The traditional method of preparing ! persings of jews throughout the 17th through 19th a "sour" some 14 hours in advance generates not only j centuries large segments of jews ultimately settled. yeast fermentation, but the development of lactic and j acid bacteria. We trust that the above data is useful to you and wish I to thank you for the privilege of being considered for 3. The general characteristics of the finished loaf, i.e., this information. a light, slightly firm loaf, baked under steam and dem- j onstrating a hearth-baked appearance, in combination B. Levy, with a slightly sour taste, closely resemble Rye bread Henry S. Levy and Son, Inc. baked by the Jewish bakers in Russia and Poland. Brooklyn, N.Y. I sincerely hope that this explanation is satisfactory. Thank you for your recent letter. Thank you for your interest in Arnold Bakers, and for taking the time to write us. Your theme for the article on Jewish food sounds like an interesting one and we are happy to provide you Frank J. Raffaele with whatever information we have at our disposal. In Laboratory Director-Quality Control answer to your question regarding why we call our Arnold Bakers, Inc. Jewish Rye Bread "Jewish", I can only say that this is Greenwich, Conn. a term used by the baking industry in reference to this type of light rye bread. SHOLOM GOLD is rabbi of Young , West I hope this information will be useful to you. We ap-' Hempstead, N. Y. preciate your thinking of us with regard to your re- ARON TRAURING is a senior at Columbia University search. majoring in Urban Studies.

Gordon McGovern, IRVING ROSHWALB is an executive for a market re- President, search firm and teaches statistics at Baruch College. Pepperidge Farm Norwalk, Conn. ELI LEITER is a psychologist at the Bronx Psychiatric Center.

JOEL B. WOLOWELSKY teaches mathematics and Thank you for your letter of January 22 regarding Jewish philosophy at the Yeshiva of Flatbush. Arnold Jewish Rye Bread. You will be interested to learn that the answer to your question "What makes PAUL KAPLOWITZ is a retired chairman of the your rye bread more than your other , Jewish?" United States Tariff Commission. can be found in the following three aspects of the MARC ROSENSTEIN is in his final year at HUC-JIR. baking. LEONARD LEVIN edits Response and is a member 1. Formula: The Arnold formula utilizes a blend of of the New York Havurah. \ low starch, high ash, clear flour in combination with white Rye flour. Sugar, a common ingredient in Amer- I. MARILYN LEVINSKY, a Queens College graduate ican Rye breads, is absent. has just returned from a year in Jerusalem.

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