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Nördlich Der Golden Gate Bridge San Francisco/Ausflüge in die Umgebung 109 Nördlich der Golden Gate Bridge Die bergige Küstenlandschaft der Marin Sieben“, S. 90). In Sausalito wohnt die Headlands nördlich der Stadt ist Teil Aussteiger-Elite der Bay Area. Haupt- San Francisco der auf S. 64 beschriebenen Golden attraktion ist die 3 km nördlich vom Gate National Recreation Area, mit Fährterminal gelegene Houseboat Com- 300 km² Fläche der größte Erholungs- munity rechterhand vom Bridgeway park der USA. Nördlich davon schmie- Boulevard. Im Bereich des Liberty gen sich die exklusivsten Wohnviertel Dock, Waldo Point und Isaaquah Dock im Umland San Franciscos an die im- liegen über 200 fantasievoll gestylte ϓ mergrünen Hänge der Richardson Bay. Hausboote und Wohnflöße vor Anker, S. 37 Karten S. 26 und die über blumenumrankte Holzlaufste- Sausalito ge zu erreichen sind. Kein einziges Der hübsche Jachthafen an der gleicht dem anderen. Da kann man Richardson Bay, mit den darüber teils schon neidisch werden – ein Veranda- steilen Treppenaufgängen zwischen und Schlafzimmerblick mit Kormora- den Häuschen und Villen, liegt 3 km nen! Die ein- bis zweistöckigen nördlich der Golden Gate Bridge im Floating-Homes stammen ursprüng- Marin County. Vom Ferry Terminal bei lich aus den 1960ern und sind im Ge- den Elefantenstatuen im Viña del Mar gensatz zu richtigen Hausbooten nicht Park geht es nach einer Radtour über manövrierfähig. Otis Redding soll auf die Golden Gate Bridge meist wieder einem von ihnen Sitting on the Dock of mit der Fähre zurück nach San Fran- the Bay verfasst haben. Die tapfere Bay- cisco (Ք „Mit dem Rad auf Wolke Kommune widerstand im sogenannten Sonoma, Napa LLarkspurarkspur 580 MMountount TTamalpaisamalpais BBolinasolinas LLagoonagoon 101 SanS a n PabloP a b l o 1 1 MillMill ValleyValley BayB a y BBolinasolinas SStinsontinson BBeacheach MMuiruir WWoodsoods NN.. MM.. 2 131 RedRed RockRock BeachBeach Mt.Mt. TamalpaisTamalpais ((Mickey'sMickey's BBeach)each) SS.. PP.. RichardsonRichardson TTiburoniburon BBayay 3 1 HHouseboatouseboat CCommunityommunity FFerryerry TTerminalerminal 7 BolinasB o l i n a s BayB a y BridgewayBridgeway GoldenGolden GateGate AngelAngel MMuiruir BBeacheach IslandIsland Straßen NNationalational FerryFerry TerminalTerminal 1 Panorama Highway RRecreationecreation AArearea SausalitoSausalito SSana n 2 Muir Wood Road MarinMarin FFranciscor a n c i s c o 6 3 Shoreline Highway HeadlandsHeadlands V.V. C.C. BBaya y 4 Bunker Road 4 VVistaista PointPoint RRodeoodeo BBeacheach 5 Conzelman Road 5 BatteryBattery SpencerSpencer AlcatrazAlcatraz 6 Alexander Avenue BirdBird IslandIsland OverlookOverlook HawkHawk HillHill OOverlookverlook AlacantaraAlacantara GoldenGolden 7 Beach Road IslandIsland PointPoint BonitaBonita GGateate Bike Path LighthouseLighthouse BBridgeridge 101 SSanan FFranciscorancisco PresidioPresidio Nördlich der Golden Gate Bridge 3 km 1 80 San José, Los Angeles 110 San Francisco Hausboot-Krieg allen städtischen Sa- nierungsplänen, nachzuvollziehen in Roy Nolans und Saul Roudas Film Last Free Ride von 1974. Die heutigen Besitzer dürften jedoch eher dem Porsche-Milieu und nicht der Blumen- Generation angehören. Auf der knapp zwei Fußballfelder großen Hallen- fläche des Bay Model Visitor Center werden die Gezeiten in einer nachge- Sausalito Houseboat Community stellten San Francisco Bay und ihren Flusssystemen simuliert. Die Anlage wurde 1957 vom US Army Corps of Engineers konstruiert. ϋ Di–Sa 9/10–16 Uhr, Eintritt frei. 2100 Bridgeway, www.spn.usace.army.mil/Missions/Recreation. Einwohner ca. 7.500 Information www.sausalito.org Fährverbindungen Die Golden Gate Fleet (www.goldengateferry.org) fährt zur Sommerzeit tägl. bis zu 9-mal in 30 Min. zum Ferry Building (Embarcadero), letzte Fähren wochentags um 18.10 und 19.30, Sa/So um 18.10 und 19.20 Uhr; einfache Fahrt ca. 12 $. Die Blue & Gold Fleet (www.blueandgold fleet.com) fährt tägl. bis zu 7-mal zum Pier 41 bei der Fisherman’s Wharf, letzte Fähren um 19 und 21.10 Uhr, einfach 12,50 $. Essen & Trinken Anchorage 5, ungezwun- genes Unterdeck-Ambiente bei der Houseboat Community, deftige und süße Seemannsfrüh- stücke, corned beef hash, Omelettes. Tägl. 7– 15 Uhr (So ab 8 Uhr). 475 Gate 5 Rd, www. anchorage5.com. Avatar’s, indisch-mexikanisch-mediterrane Crossover, vegetarische Optionen, köstlich das Curry-Trio (20 $). Mo–Sa 11–15 und 17–21.30 Uhr. 2656 Bridgeway, Ecke Coloma St fast auf Höhe der Houseboat Community, www.enjoy avatars.com. No Name Bar, hier betranken sich literari- sche Größen wie John Updike, Ray Bradbury oder William Saroyan. Abends Live-Jazz. Tägl. 11–2 Uhr. 757 Bridgeway nahe Fährterminal, facebook. Poggio, norditalienischer Sausalito-Klassiker, auch zum Draußensitzen, feine Pasta, Floren- tiner-Steak, Ente, Heilbutt, gehobene Preise. Tägl. 6.30–22.30 Uhr, Reservierung empfohlen. 777 Bridgeway, ι 415-3327771, www.poggio trattoria.com. 111 Tiburon Die vis-à-vis von Sausalito auf der anderen Seite der Richardson Bay gele- gene, für Fußgänger und Radfahrer San Francisco San Francisco auch mit der Fähre von San Francisco aus zu erreichende Nobelgemeinde hat mediterranes Flair. Direkt am Ufer reiht sich ein Haus ans andere und an den Hängen wachsen die Villen ins Grüne. Am Wochenende herrscht großer An- ϓ drang. Eine südländisch anmutende S. 37 Karten S. 26 und Postkartenansicht offeriert die Beach Road auf der anderen Seite der Bel- vedere Cove, einen Kilometer von der Main Street bzw. vom Tiburon Boule- vard. Für Radler besteht die Möglich- keit, anstatt von Sausalito von hier mit der Fähre nach San Francisco zu gelan- gen. Ein 20 km langer Bike Path führt von Sausalito bis zum Fährterminal in Tiburon (Ք „Mit dem Rad auf Wolke Sieben“, S. 90). Einwohner ca. 9.000 Information www.townoftiburon.org Fährverbindungen Mit der Blue & Gold Fleet (www.blueandgoldfleet.com) geht es von Anfang Mai bis Anfang Sept. (sonst weniger häufig) tägl. bis zu 9-mal vom Tiburon Ferry Terminal in 30 Min. zum Pier 41 (Fisherman’s Wharf), einfach 12,50 $; letzte Fähren 21.25 und 23 Uhr (ohne Gewähr). Mit der Golden Gate Fleet (www.goldengate ferry.org) geht es nur wochentags, i. d. R. bis in die letzte Septemberwoche bis zu 7-mal zum Ferry Building (Embarcadero), einfach ca. 12 $. Essen & Trinken Die meisten Speiselokale sind an der Main St nahe dem Fährterminal. Beliebt und fast so teuer wie andere ist die kleine und feine Don Antonio Trattoria. Salate und Vorspeisen 10–14 $, Pasta 17–22 $, Hauptspeisen 20–24 $. Di–Sa 11.30–21/21.30, So 17–21 Uhr. Reservierung empfohlen! 114 Main St, ι 415-4350400, www.donantonio marin.com. Eine Terrasse mit Blick auf den Jachthafen hat Sam’s Anchor Cafe. Kabeljau mit Pommes 20 $, hawaiianischer Thunfisch 32 $. Mo–Fr 11–21.30, Sa/So 9.30–21.30 Uhr. 27 Main St, www.samscafe.com. 112 San Francisco/Ausflüge in die Umgebung Nach dem Mount-Tam-Abzweig Von den Muir Woods führt der Panoramic Highway in Haar- bis Point Reyes nadelkurven hinab zur Bolinas Bay und Nördlich der Marin Headlands reizt das zum Stinson Beach, dem coolsten San zwischen dem Pazifischen Ozean und Sandstrand der Franziskaner – mit Franc der San Francisco Bay aufragende Küs- über 4 km Länge ein tolles Ausflugs- o/Au tengebirge mit tollen Panoramaausbli- ziel, um sich, keine 40 Minuten von üge cken über dem oftmals aufgestauten, Downtown, die Lungen mit Frischluft die wie in einem dramatischen Seeschlacht- zu füllen. Die Asche von Janis Joplin Umge gemälde driftenden Wolkenmeer. wurde hier dem Ozean überlassen. Falls ung Eine Meile nördlich von Sausalito mal wieder ein großer Weißer Hai geht’s vom Highway 101 abzweigend auftauchen sollte, herrscht Badeverbot auf den Küsten-Highway 1 (Shoreline – unnötigerweise, denn das Wasser ist Hwy). Auf diesem kommt nach 5 km sowieso viel zu kalt zum Baden. Der rechterhand der Abzweig auf den FKK-Abschnitt Red Rock Beach (man- Panoramic Highway und nach weiteren che sagen Mickey’s Beach) ist am süd- 1,5 km der Abzweig auf die Muir lichen, felsumrahmten Strandende, un- Woods Road zum Muir Woods National terhalb des Highway 1 (Shoreline Monument, einem 2 km2 großen Hain Hwy). Unter den Gästen sind nicht nur aus 500 bis 1000 Jahre alten, bis zu Gays und Frisbee ist nur eine der Lieb- 80 m hohen Küstenmammutbäumen lingsbeschäftigungen. (Sequoia sempervirens). Beim Spazier- ϋ Keine Parkgebühr. www.stinsonbeach gang durch den Wald der Giganten online.com. findet man Schatten und Ruhe, wo- Vis-à-vis dem nördlichen Ende des chentags in der Frühe auch Stille. An Stinson Beach, zwischen dem Pazifik Wochenenden ist es nicht leicht, einen und der Bolinas Lagoon an der Süd- Parkplatz zu ergattern. spitze der Point Reyes Halbinsel, liegt ϋ Eintritt ab 16 Jahre 10 $, gratis mit Intera- Bolinas. Diese kuriose Post-Hippie- gency/America the Beautiful Pass. Visitor Kommune war in den 1970ern das Center, je nach Jahreszeit tägl. 8–17/18/19/20 „Dichter-Ghetto“ Kaliforniens. Kein Uhr, www.nps.gov/muwo. Schild weist den Weg an der Abfahrt Dem Panaromic Highway in nord- vom Highway 1 (am Nordende der westliche Richtung folgend, führt ein Bolinas Lagune). Die Bewohner haben Abzweig über die Pantoll Road und den das ursprünglich vorhandene immer Ridgecrest Boulevard zum 784 m ho- wieder abgeschraubt, damit sie in Ruhe hen Ostgipfel des Mount Tamalpais im gelassen werden – die Straßenverwal- gleichnamigen State Park, mit herr- tung hat ein Anbringen längst aufgege- lichem Blick über die Bay Area und an ben. Die Absicht, nicht gefunden zu klaren Tagen mit Sicht bis zur Sierra werden, scheint jedoch eher das Nevada. An seinen Flanken wurde in Gegenteil zu bewirken – ein guter den 1970ern das Mountain Biking er- Promotion-Trick! In Bolinas gibt es funden. Es gibt ein gut unterhaltenes weder Bürgermeister noch Rathaus. Netz aus 400 km Radwanderwegen Dafür lässt die Literaturpolizei unpoeti- und Wanderpfaden. Populär ist der am sche und karmaschädigende Einträge Rock-Springs-Parkplatz startende Ca- von der Poet’s Wall entfernen, und in taract Trail zum Alpine Lake, je nach der ortseigenen Zeitung Hearsay News Loop-Kombination 10 km. (www.hearsaynews.org) ist jeder Be- ϋ Info-Center unterhalb des Ostgipfels, nur wohner aufgefordert, entweder zum Sa/So 11–16 Uhr.
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