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A publication of the Community Services Center Centered THE WOMEN’SISSUE on Vol. 18|06 2018 MAR 2018/2/20 下午11:02 T he Great Getaway CONTENTS March 2018 volume 18 issue 6

CSC COMMUNITY From the Editors 5 Doris Brougham - Community Service Leadership Award 10 Events About Town 6 The Most Inspiring Women I Have Met 19 Book Clubs: March 6 Taitung: Colorful and Unique 22 Center Gallery 7 March Activity Highlights 7 PROFILE Kiddies Korner 8 Lily Wen – A Woman of Many Talents 12 CSC Business Classified 38 Siew Kang – A Kind and Generous Heart 14 Judy Yang, My Incredible Mom 15 My Mother – A Pillar of Strength 16 Publisher Community Services Center, Taipei Editor Suzan Babcock Chen Tso-chi – A Journey Out of Silence 17 Co-editor Richard Saunders Advertising Manager Naomi Kaly Magazine Email [email protected] FASHION & BEAUTY Tel 02-2836-8134 The Reed Dance: 02-2835-2530 Fax A Rite-of-Passage for Swazi Girls 24 Community Services Siew Kang, Fred Voigtmann Center Editorial Panel HEALTH Printed by Farn Mei Printing Co., Ltd. Yoga is a Forerunner for Women Holistic Wellness 26 1F, No. 102, Hou Kang Street, Shilin , Taipei Healthy Habits, Healthy Heart 28 Tel: 02-2882-6748 Fax: 02-2882-6749 E-mail: [email protected] OUTLOOK Centered on Taipei is a publication of the Community Services Center, Self-care – The Secret to Being a Superwoman 30 25, Lane 290, Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 6, Tianmu, Taipei, Tel: 02-2836-8134 Newton’s Cradle – Inhabiting Multiple Identities as a fax: 02-2835-2530 Foreign Woman in Taiwan 32 e-mail: [email protected] Karen Farley, Entrepreneur – Correspondence may be sent to the editor at coteditor@ KP Kitchen: the Second Year 33 communitycenter.org.tw. Freelance writers, photographers and illustrators are welcome to contact the editor to discuss editorial and graphic assignments. Your talent will find a home with us! FOOD & DRINK Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not Yonghe Dou Jian Da Wang (Yong He Soly Milk King) 36 be reproduced without the written consent of the copyright owner. COT is printed on FSC certified 100% post-consumer recycled fiber. The TRAVEL paper is certified in accordance with the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council which promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and Taiwan's Historic Chastity Arches 35 economically viable management of the world's forests. https://ic.fsc.org/

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 3 2018/2/20 下午11:00 Crown’s service offerings include: Everyone needs • International & Domestic Shipments • Transit Protection to know why... • Pet & Car Transfers • Immigration & Legalization We’ll help your whole family • Home Search • School Search prepare for the big adventure. • Settling-in Services

Tel: +886 2 2719 2618 ˙ Weekly Themes [email protected] ˙ Fun Science Experiments ˙ Cooking Classes ˙ Water Play ˙ Phonics & Mathematics ˙ Arts and Crafts ˙ Weekly Field Trips / Special Events ˙ Games Go knowing ˙ Play Time and More! www.crownrelo.com/taiwan

Register on March 12 or March 14 TYPA Campus (located inside TAS) CR ad Euroview AprMay.indd 1 22/3/2016 3:40:25 PM

TYPA Office: (02) 28731815 WWW.TYPA.ORG.TW

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 4 2018/2/20 下午11:01 COVER IMAGE: Yaki Iwan FROM Please send email submissions, comments, and feedback to [email protected]. by Tobie Openshaw THE For more information, please go to our website at EDITORS www.communitycenter.org.tw International Women’s Day, March 8th, is the global COT TEAM celebration of women’s social, artistic, economic, political and cultural achievements. The first observation of Women’s Day occurred on February 28th, 1909 in New York City. The next year, at the International Women’s Conference in Copenhagen, delegates proposed that a specific day, March 19th, be set aside to honor and promote the equal rights Suzan Babcock Richard Saunders Naomi Kaly KC Editor Co-editor Advertising Manager Graphic Designer of women and women’s suffrage. Subsequently, the first coteditor@ [email protected] naomi@communitycenter. graphicdesigntaipei. International Women’s Day observances were held in Austria, communitycenter.org.tw org.tw weebly.com Denmark, Germany and Switzerland on March 19, 1911. This date was later changed in 1913 to March 8th, and Women’s Day continues to be celebrated on this day. The March 2018 issue of Centered on Taipei is our special “Women’s Issue.” This year’s lineup contains women’s life journey narratives, cross-cultural insights, community profiles Zee Nomita Kavra Gupta Sydney Ko Editorial intern Editorial intern Editorial intern and interviews about ordinary women who are making significant and positive differences in their own lives and in the lives of those around them. They are women who have WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTORS steadily, and often quietly, pushed themselves beyond set Sue Babcock Joan H. HungryinTaipei boundaries stemming from a wide range of cultural, political, Dr. Doris Brougham Siew Kang social, economic and health-related influences. They are, as Maudie Brown Sydney Ko Chen Tso-Chi Miranda Lin Tobie Openshaw refers to in his article, “The Most Inspiring Jenna Lynn Cody Tobie Openshaw Women I have Met,” and “The glue that holds a society Liz Coetzee Joseph Reilly Malabika Das Richard Saunders together.” Sue Bardwell Detisch Rosemary Susa Spring has finally come to Taipei and the Community Zee Dlamini Grace Ting Karen Farley Lily Wen Services Center has a full-listing of events, activities and Nomita Kava Gupta tours lined up for you to enjoy. Michael Hurst will be giving, by popular demand, his POW Tour: In the Steps of the Men of Kinkaseki. Join Jennifer Tong as she leads you through Pick COT up at: the streets of old Sanxia, sharing tidbits about the area that Uptown: only locals know. And if you are in the mood for homemade Community Services Center, No. 25, Lane 290, Sec. 6, Zhongshan North Rd. noodles, Ivy Chen will teach you how to make three different Sprout – No. 33, Sec. 7, Zhongshan North Rd. noodle dishes. George Pai’s Beauty – No. 14, Tienmu East Rd. Downtown: There is a lot going on at the Center, so stop by to see us. A Ooh Cha Cha – 207, Sec.2, Nanchang Rd. cup of hot coffee or tea will be waiting for you. NakedFood – 22-1, Lane 160, Sec.1, Xingsheng South Rd. Samyama (Art) Co., Ltd. – 2F, No. 1, Lane 119, Sec.1, Daan Rd. Sue and Richard

Accountant Monica Cheng COMMUNITY SERVICES CENTER Activities Coordinator Rosemary Susa Assistant Activities Coordinator Undine Urbach The Community Services Center (CSC) is a non-profit foundation. CSC provides Coffee Mornings Coordinator John Imbrogulio outreach and early intervention through counseling, cross-cultural education and Cross-cultural Trainer Anne Jacquet life skills programs to meet the needs of the international community in Taipei. Communications Morgan Loosli CSC offers the opportunity to learn, volunteer, teach and meet others. Check out Shan Lee our website www.communitycenter.org.tw and drop by The Center to chat with us Events Coordinator about our programs. You can also email us at [email protected]. Mandarin Chinese Teacher Gloria Gwo Systems Manager Lee Ming Yeh

Director Adam McMillan Volunteers Miyuki Boice, Daniel Chan, John Imbrogulio, Anna Loose, Leslie McFarlane, Office Manager Grace Ting John McQuade, Gloria Peng, Emmy Shih

Counselors I-wen Chan, Katherine Chang, Hui-shiang Chao, Benefactors Bai Win Antiques Jung Chin, Chiao-Feng Chung, Cerita Hsu, Carol Lee, European Chamber of Commerce Miranda Lin, Emilie Ma, Kuang-Shan Wan Grand Hyatt Taipei

Consultants Wendy Evans and Michael Mullahy Premier Sponsors Concordia Consulting ICRT Counseling Admin. Joanne Chua San Fu Global

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EVENTS ABOUT TOWN Comedians’ Workshop Taipei University General Gymnasium, the Hakka people because the for nature photographers Taiwan has a flourishing 3rd floor (NTU Sports Center) economic value of its wood to capture the grey-faced performing arts market and Tickets: https://www.viagogo. was a vital resource in helping buzzards in central Taiwan has produced a wide range com/ww/Theater-Tickets/ many Hakka families make as they make their annual of enjoyable and relatable Musicals/Cats/Cats-The- ends meet. The trees were migration northward, passing programs. The comedians’ Musical-Tickets/E-2506212?affi widely planted and cover the over Mount Bagua. workshop brings its own comic liateID=624&PCID=AFFIAFFUKE mountainsides of Taoyuan, When: March 24th – 25th flair to the local performing vent14FF953148 and Miaoli, Taiwan’s Where: Mt. Bagua Visitors acts landscape, and is known Or https://www.kham.com.tw/ biggest Hakka region. Center No.13-7, Guashan for its funny sketches. Worth application/UTK02/UTK0201_. When: March to May Road, Changhua City seeing for a relaxed night out. aspx?PRODUCT_ID=M03PEN7S More Info: https://tung.hakka. More Info: http://www.eagle. When: March 23rd (7.30 pm) gov.tw/Default.aspx?lang=2 org.tw Where: Shifu Road, Xinyi Sappo LIVE District (Family Theatre, Taipei Enjoy a laid-back and cool City Hall) music environment in Tickets: https://www.stubhub. downtown Taipei. COT March 2018 com.au/comedians-workshop- Live music, dance floor, bar and Morning taipei-tickets/ev526636?afl= good food. They also offer open 1X00396LRG&utm_medium mic/jam sessions. Book Club =affiliate&utm_content=fe Tuesday to Friday, 8pm-3am Selection ed&utm_campaign=4&utm Venue: B1, No.1, Lane 102, Free Buzzard in Mt. Bagua _source=td-tech&affid=TT- Anhe Road, Section 1, Taipei As Taiwan continues to 2427504&tduid=td- Further information: embrace and work towards tech-2427504 [email protected] building a green economy that protects biological diversity, the Wild Bird Society of Changhua hosts a special event called Free Buzzard in Mt. Bagua to protect these birds for the long term. Free Buzzard in Mt. Bagua promotes a harmonious Cats - The Musical relationship between humanity The renowned musical, and nature. This is also in Cats, based on TS Eliot's Old accordance with the theme Possum's Book of Practical The Hakka Tung Blossom of the International Day The Circle by Dave Cats, with music by Andrew Festival for Biological Diversity – a Eggers will be the Morning Book Club’s Lloyd Webber, is coming back The celebration of flowering United Nations-stipulated day March selection. For to Taipei following previous tung trees is an ode to the (May 22nd) emphasizing the meeting dates, times performances in Taiwan. Hakka people, and inspired by importance of understanding & location, contact: When: March 15th – 18th their contribution to the early and valuing the living mcelroy22000@yahoo. (multiple shows) local economy of Taiwan. It organisms around us. com Where: National Taiwan is also an important tree for This is also a great opportunity

Taiwan is a perfect illustration of the saying that good things come in small packages. In comparison with more popular tourist destinations in the Far East, Taiwan is very modest in size, but despite its diminutive scale, the island has an astonishing amount to offer the curious explorer. The two volumes that make up Taiwan 101 are the perfect guide for exploring the very best of Taiwan: not only the island’s finest hikes, but also its best historic towns and cities, brightest traditional festivals, unique Chinese and aboriginal cultural riches, and its little-known natural wonders such as eternal flames, mud volcanoes and badlands. Taiwan 101: Essential Together, Taiwan 101 Volumes 1 and 2 present Taiwan’s finest Sights, Hikes and attractions to anyone who wishes to get to know this island of Experiences on Ilha kaleidoscopic charms, and comes with detailed information on getting Formosa around by public transport, and accurate GPS coordinates of nearly 800 by Richard Saunders fascinating places.

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A percentage of all proceeds of items sold at the Gallery will go MARCH 2018 to the Center. Please remember that by displaying your items or shopping at the Gallery, you will be helping the Center to continue GALLERY to provide valuable services to the international community.

CHEN CHAO PAO’S PAINTING COLLECTION Come visit the Center this month to view renowned visual artist Chen Chao Pao’s paintings, brought in by Baiwin. Chen used the ancient Chinese splash brushing technique, combined with Western painting skills, to develop new expression and new subject matter for ink and water paintings. His paintings are popular at auctions worldwide.

ADORNMENTS OF BLESSING A BEAUTIFUL SCARF AND Handcrafted in the Holy Land, ORNAMENT COLLECTION made of wood and natural stone, Shop at the Center for beautiful Balance Health International scarves and elegant ornaments brings these beautiful religious for yourself, or give as gifts for home decorations and accessories someone special. from Israel to you.

MARCH ACTIVITY HIGHLIGHTS Taiwanese cuisine, and where you will learn how to there are so many types determine your constitution, available for you to enjoy. In according to Chinese this class, Ivy will teach you medicine, and which foods how to make three dishes are best for you. Through this using three different types of informative course, you will Sanxia Old Street and Indigo noodles: hand-made noodles gain a better understanding Dye Center Tour known as Māo ěrdu or cat’s of Chinese medicine, and POW Tour: In the Steps of Wednesday, March 7; 9:30 ears, served with a sesame how to use it in your life to the Men of Kinkaseki am - 3:30 pm sauce; Taiwanese beef and stay healthy. Wednesday, March 21; 8:30 Guide: Jennifer Tong tomato noodle soup made am - 3:30 pm $800 with thick rice noodles; and Beginning Crochet Guide: Michael Hurst Join Jennifer for an stir-fried glass noodles with Workshop $1,500 adventure out to Sanxia, shrimp and vegetables. Thursdays, March 15 & 22; It is not a well-known fact, with its endearing Old Street 12 noon – 2 pm but in 1942, the Japanese and beautiful Zhushi Taoist Understanding Chinese Instructor: Maria Correia began bringing Allied POWs Temple. Included in this tour Medicine: Nutrition and the $1,400 to Taiwan from Southeast is a visit to one of the town’s Five Elements Have you ever wanted Asia and held them under indigo dye centers, where Thursdays, March 15 & 22; to learn how to crochet? horrendous conditions until you will have the option of 9:30 am - 11:30 am Well, then join Maria for Japan surrendered in 1945. creating a hand-dyed item Instructor: David Edsall this introductory workshop The largest of the camps of your choosing (cost not $1,200 where she will teach you in Taiwan was in Kinkaseki included). Explore Taiwan the Chinese medicine is a the basics of crocheting. In (today's Jinguashi). This way the locals do — using fascinating and ancient this beginner class you will fascinating, full-day tour MRT and public bus. Bring medicine that has evolved learn how to make "granny will take us from Ruifang to your EasyCard and a packed to the modern day. In this squares," which can be Jinguashi via Jiufen, along lunch. Tasty local snacks are two-part course, David will stitched together to create the route taken by the also available to purchase on introduce the five-element any number of items from POWs, and will include stops the Old Street. system and the basics of simple scarves to small at the Gold Mining Museum nutrition from a Chinese blankets and afghans. Take (admission fee included) Oodles of Chinese Noodles medical perspective. In this class and you will be on and the POW Memorial Park Friday, March 9; 10 am - 12 the first class, you will your way to creating a lovely on the site of the camp. noon learn which element you item made by your own Bring water, a packed lunch Instructor: Ivy Chen correspond to, and how that hands. The cost of materials and rain/sun protection as $1,200 relates to your body’s health to make approximately six needed. Noodles form a basic and functions. The second granny squares is included. component of Chinese/ class will focus on nutrition,

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 7 2018/2/20 下午11:01 KIDDIES KORNER Fun Activities for Kiddies

Here are a few exciting places to visit with your busy-bee kids to keep them buzzing!

TEXT: NOMITA KAVRA GUPTA

WHAT WHY WHEN AND WHERE

This year, the is in the Addresses: TAIWAN LANTERN FESTIVAL southern city of , and will be presented Governent 1, E. Sec., Xianghe on water, on land, and in the air. It’s aimed at 1st Road, Taibao City, Chiayi County bringing tourism, technology, culture and art (southern branch) together. 888, Gugong Boulevard, The shows will take place at fixed hours every Suantou Sugar Factory evening during the festival period, accompanied 1, Gongchang Village, Chiayi County by dance performances by professional troupes. Timeline: March 2nd to 11th https://www.taiwan.net. tw/2018taiwanlantern/EN/

HOLI FESTIVAL 2018 Holi is a Hindu spring festival which is celebrated Date & Time: Saturday, March 3rd from 10:30 throughout the Indian subcontinent. It is also to 4:30 known as the ‘festival of colors’ or ‘the festival Venue: Luguanghe’an Park (Same as last year of love’. The festival signifies the victory of good and near the Dingxi MRT Station) over evil, the end of winter and the arrival of Fee: NT$400 includes entrance, full course Indian spring. It is a time to meet friends, celebrate the food, Holi colors. Children under 5 are free. joy of life, forgive and mend broken relationships. Sponsor: The Indian Cultural Committee of It is an Indian spring festival of fun. Admission Taipei (ICCT) includes surprise performances, full course Indian For more information: ICCT 2018 Grand Holi in meal and our traditional Holi color throw. Taipei’s Facebook page Or call: Mr. Rajan Khera at 09-32-30-3939

STAGE TIME AND JUICE AT Find out why everyone is talking about Stage Time Address: Taiwan Air Force Innovation Base THE RED ROOM XXIX and Juice when you join their bi-monthly open (TAF) mic and more event. 2F library, 177, Jianguo South Road section 1 Stage Time and Juice invites talent from the Red (Intersection of Jianguo South Road and Jinan Room and Taipei community to share their gifts Road) and passions with an encouraging audience. Have Telephone: 0910-947-307 it your way and take the stage for five minutes to Date and Time: Saturday, March 17th 2:30 to share a song, dance, joke, or story! 4:30 pm Fee: NT150 per adult, NT$100 per child (ages 5-18), to cover cleaning costs http://redroomtaipei.com/events/#stj https:// www.facebook.com/redroomjuice/

YANGMING PARK The Flower Clock is a large garden artwork near Address: 1-20, Zhuzihu Road, Yangmingshan, FLOWER CLOCK the western entrance to Yangming Park, close Telephone: (02) 2861-3601 to the national park visitor center and the main Office Service hours: 8:30 am to 5 pm bus station on the mountain. The park contains (Monday to Friday) a Chinese-style garden with elegant buildings, Headquarters and Visitor Center Hours: 8:30 pavilions, kiosks, streams, fountains and ponds. am to 4:30 pm Telephone: (02)-2861-5741 From December through April, the landscape Other Visitor Center hours: 9 am to 4:30 pm is adorned with native cherry, plum, camellia, http://english.ymsnp.gov.tw/index.php?opt peach, and azalea, and this time period is known ion=com_content&view=featured&gp=0&It as the flower festival. emid=104

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PINGXI SKY LANTERN The Lantern Festival is celebrated annually on Address: Shifen Sky Lantern Square, 136, FESTIVAL the 15th day of the first lunar month to mark the Nanshanping, Pingxi District, grand finale of the Chinese New Year celebrations. Date: March 2nd It is also the very first full moon day of the New https://ilikevents.com/event/3142-new- Year, symbolizing the coming of spring. People taipei-city-pingxi-sky-lantern-festival usually celebrate this festival by enjoying family dinner together, eating yuanxiao (glutinous rice dumplings), carrying paper lanterns, and solving the riddles on the lanterns. The festival is celebrated with fanfare events in Taiwan, including the internationally famed Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival in New Taipei City.

THE CENTER NEEDS YOU! Do you have a skill or talent that you would like to share? Or have you found some great places around Taipei that you would like to take others to see? Then why not consider teaching a course or leading a tour for the Center in Fall/Winter 2018? If you are interested, or would like more information, please contact Rosemary at [email protected].

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 9 2018/2/20 下午11:01 COMMUNITY Dr. Doris Brougham – the 2017 Taipei Community Services Center Individual Community Leadership Award Recipient

TEXT: SUE BABCOCK IMAGE: DR. DORIS BROUGHAM

eadership is the ability to people. Her love of Taiwan grew with inspire others, create positive each passing day and people opened energy and turn a dream of their hearts to her. They loved and helping others into a reality. trusted her. Dr.L Doris Brougham is a woman who inspires others and helps them to OPTIMIZING RESOURCES fulfill their dreams. She is a community CREATIVELY leader who values personal interaction Doris had several things going for her and sincerity and has a belief that when she arrived on Taiwan, in 1951. goodness dwells inside each of us, no She was fluent in Mandarin; a visionary, matter how deeply buried. had excellent creative problem-solving abilities, boundless energy and was KEEPING A PROMISE curious about life. She quickly realized Doris believes that her life path that people in Taiwan were curious has been arranged by God. When about the gospel. She also recognized she was twelve years old, she had an that a large sector of the island’s opportunity to listen to the dramatic population could be reached via the stories about life in China from radio. So Doris began to set plans in returning missionaries. As she sat in the Sadly, it soon became apparent that motion to use radio broadcasts to reach congregation listening to the struggles Doris had to make a decision. It was out to the people. that people and their families were with great reluctance that she decided Her first Chinese Christian radio facing in China, she knew that she to leave China. In August of 1949, broadcasts began in 1951, from her wanted to become a missionary, so that amidst heavy gunfire, Doris and a small home in Hualien. She managed to she could help them. When it came time group of missionaries left Kansu and purchase a tape recorder, which in for people to stand up indicating their evacuated to Hong Kong. She worked those days was very expensive and commitment to serve, Doris was among with the refugees there until February began taping programs in her living the first to stand. Since she was only 1951. Then she and a few others room. She also recorded and included twelve years old, she was too young. boarded a ship for Taiwan, in hopes of choirs featuring the melodious voices However, she made a promise that day finding new opportunities for working of the indigeonous children and their to God that when she was old enough, with Chinese people. enchanting songs. These were the first she would go to China as a missionary. choirs under her direction in Taiwan. So, in 1948 at the age of 21, having TAIWAN – A SAFE HAVEN AND NEW Once these sessions were taped, completed a degree in education with HOME IN HUALIEN Doris rode her bicycle to the radio a minor in music, Doris left the United Not long after her arrival in Taiwan, studio at the Broadcasting Corporation States for mainland China. She was she began hearing about the needs of China (BCC) for the tapes to be keeping her promise to God. Little did of the people on the east coast. Doris played. This opportunity was made she know that she was embarking on a responded by moving to Hualien. Not possible through the kindness of Mr. journey that would forever change her one to waste time, she quickly settled Hollington Tong, the Director of BCC life and the lives of many others. into a routine and began reaching and a sympathetic Christian. out to the people of Hualien. She Because of the broadcasts’ THE DRUMS OF WAR could be seen everywhere, talking to popularity, Doris saw a way to help Doris arrived in China eager to begin rice farmers, local business people, promote English language learning on her life as a missionary. Even though members from Hualien’s indigenous Taiwan. Together with a hardworking WWII had ended, civil unrest was community and their children. Being team of teachers, she expanded the continuing in China. Political tensions a natural-born teacher, Doris began broadcast programs to include the mounted. Doris spent a year moving teaching the children music. To this teaching of English. In 1960, Doris from one area to another, hoping day, those children hold a very special started a new Chinese gospel group things would change for the better and place in her heart. Doris began the which eventually led to the formation she would finally be able to minister first island-wide youth camps and she of Oversea Radio & Television (ORTV) to the people she was there to help. taught adults at the Seminary for tribal and Studio Classroom. By 1962, the

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popular “Studio Classroom” program As a non-profit multi-media ministry the congregation with her enthusiastic was airing throughout Taiwan and the organization, it still continues its gospel trumpet playing. audience response was enthusiastic. mission by reaching out to non-English They saw in Doris “A Friend for Life”. speaking communities through live A WOMAN OF MERIT AND LOVE events, English teaching magazines, Doris has pushed beyond boundaries STUDIO CLASSROOM’S ENGLISH social media, YouTube, companion that were set for women coming of PUBLICATIONS AND E-MATERIALS radio and live broadcasts. Its television age in the middle of the 20th century. Studio Classroom’s three English production studio, recording studios She has lived in Taiwan her entire adult language publications, Basic, and outreach departments are life and traveled to many countries, Advanced and Let’s Talk in English equipped to meet the changing needs received advanced degrees and honors, have been successfully used for and trends of our societies. dedicated herself to her ministry and to teaching English in Taiwan’s junior high teaching English. Doris is a recognized schools, universities, companies and MUSIC – A GIFT FROM HEAVEN accomplished businesswoman, government agencies. A wide range Music continues to play an important musician, speaker, teacher, writer and of topics cover current world and local part in Doris’ life and ministry. Since humanitarian. She is truly our “Friend events, business, the environment, her arrival on Taiwan in 1951, Doris has for Life” and a worthy recipient of the travel, cultural etiquette, healthy found numerous ways to help others to 2018 Taipei Community Services Center living, music and technology. These see the talent and promise of Taiwan’s Individual Community Leadership publications continue to be distributed youth. From those early music lessons Award. and broadcast in Australia, Canada, for the indigenous children of Hualien China, Europe, New Zealand and the to the formation of the Heavenly Suzan Babcock is a long-time United States. Melody Singers choir, Doris has shown resident of Taiwan. During her her love and willingness to help stay here, she has managed ORTV Taiwan’s young people through music. four successful careers in Today, ORTV has come a long way In fact, she recently performed with the education, cross-cultural since 1960 when it first began with Heavenly Melody Singers at the Taipei relations and counseling, tape recording sessions done in Doris’s International Church’s 60th birthday although being a mother has been her living room. It is alive with activity. anniversary, delighting and inspiring favorite.

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LILY WEN A Woman of Many Talents

TEXT: SUE BABCOCK IMAGES: LILY WEN

community spirit for the arts. Our interview began when Lily carefully placed a well-leafed through book in the center of the table where we were sitting. Curious, I glanced her way to see if it was OK to open it. She nodded. As I opened to the first page, I saw that I was looking at her mother, Lisa Wen’s art exhibition catalog; from an exhibition that had been held on the second floor of her daughter’s restaurant. As we turned the pages of her mother’s exhibition catalog, Lily began to share stories about her mother and her own childhood. Mrs. Lisa Wen was a talented artist and exhibitions, especially among the and well-disciplined student of Chang local and expat community. Since it’s Dai Chien, one of the most important easy to get to, it is not unusual to see Chinese painters of the twentieth people around the bar or seated at century. Renowned as an impressionist tables having a good time, in front of and expressionist painter, Chien was Patrick’s Lee’s painting, “Time for a especially known for his splashed ink Drink” depicting Chiang Kai-shek and and painting techniques. Chairman Mao having a drink together. To appreciate the depth of Mrs. Lily and Patrick have been particularly Wen’s talent, training and paintings, supportive of Lili’s Gallery. Located on it is important to understand the the second floor of the restaurant, the type of instruction that she received Gallery offers local artists a creative from Master Chang Dai Chien. He space to exhibit their art. Such efforts was a perfectionist, especially when have helped to cultivate a strong instructing Mrs. Wen in the principles of

usy and successful women are fascinating. Maybe it is because they have recognized and embraced Btheir own uniqueness and talents. Or perhaps it is their process of self- actualization that holds our interest. Lily Wen is one such woman, and she is a woman of many talents. The day we met for our interview, she was sitting in her restaurant with Patrick Lee, a renowned Taiwanese artist, with their beloved Shih Tzu, Honey. Lili’s Restaurant, Bar and Gallery is well-known for its delicious Shanghai and Sichuan cuisine, and upscale art

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her passion for fashion and her brand “Isabelle Wen” is recognized internationally as one of Taiwan’s cutting edge fashion designer brands. Working in the U.S. allowed Lily to gain valuable experience and insights into Western culture and business management practices. As a successful entrepreneur, Lily draws from a broad repertoire of management styles; strategic, change, transition management and her vast cross-cultural experience. Lily and her sister work closely together. They are good business partners mainly because of their strong bond of being raised together within would take the girls fabric shopping and a rich cultural family environment. would present Isabelle’s sketches to a They also share a love of fashion and tailor for him to make her daughter’s have excellent business instincts and own clothing. experience. Lily continued. “I also liked to paint, FiFi’s Museum, located at 15 Renai but what I really loved were beautiful Road, Section 4, one of Taipei’s gem stones. When I was living in the trendiest neighborhoods, is another States, I pursued studies in gemology.” example of the sisters’ ability to create Lily studied hard and obtained her distinctive and alternative approaches certification as a gemologist. Today, she for blending Western and Eastern uses her love of gem stones and talent cultural snippets through fashion, art, to design jewelry and accessories. and the food & beverage industry. She feels that gemstones and jewelry On the first floor, a world of chic, accessories are art forms that further retro, romantic and luxurious fashion support an ensemble’s distinctive mood designs greet the visitor, immediately or tone, as well as being personal forms transporting them back in time to fine classical Chinese painting traditions. of expressions. eras when poets, writers, artists, and To master the art of Chinese painting, Those early years of receiving musicians flourished with innovation Mrs. Wen was expected to copy and nurturing support, diverse cultural and creativity. trace selected paintings over and over experiences, travel, studies and Located on the second floor of again, until she was able to develop activities, and encouragement to FiFi’s Museum is Fifi’s Tea House, her own personal style through careful try new things from their mother, a restaurant featuring a delicious imitation and creative adaptation. It eventually manifested in lucrative selection of Shanghai, Sichuan and was a tedious and exhausting process. careers for both Lily and her sister contemporary Chinese dishes, exotic But Lily’s mother’s talent emerged, Isabelle. Isabelle Wen has continued tea and homemade desserts. As one giving her well-earned and deserved reviewer recently remarked, “This is recognition as an acclaimed artist. a perfect environment for refined, As Lily looked at her mother’s leisurely dining, intimate conversations, photo, she told me that her mother’s surrounded by beautiful fashion and creativity and attention to detail was collections of art.” an inspiration to her, especially while Currently, Lily and her sister Isabelle growing-up. She remembers how are busy overseeing their store in fascinated her mother was with the Shanghai, where Lily successfully fashion industry, and how she would convinced her sister to contribute to design and sew her own patterns, the 2018 Shanghai Chinese Cup Design producing exquisite outfits, including the Contest. qipao, one of her favorite Chinese styles. As Lily carefully closed her mother’s While her mother was creating art exhibition catalog, I better her own high fashion designs, her understood the enormous legacy that daughters, Lily and Isabelle, were her mother had given to Lily. It was a experimenting on their own. Isabelle legacy of self-discovery and courage. would spend hours sketching or It is a legacy that Lily is successfully drawing clothing designs. Mrs. Wen fulfilling.

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SIEW KANG A Kind and Generous Heart

TEXT: SUE BABCOCK IMAGES: SIEW KANG

and continuing enthusiasm for this community-based project is one strong reason for its success. Each year, volunteers and their committees generously give of their time to organize and to seek out new and returning vendors, making the Bazaar a pre-Christmas shopper’s delight. With each passing year, generous donations from the Bazaar’s proceeds help to continue the good work at the St. Lucy’s Center and for the welfare of all the children under its care. Siew’s service to the Taipei Community Services Center is another example of her gift of “time” for the benefit of others. Currently, Siew is a member of the Center’s Steering Committee. In the past, she has contributed articles based on her utstanding community 2002 Siew, Laura Trinnaman and Carol experience as a docent at the Taipei service, dedication Silvestri put their heads together and National Palace Museum for the and a desire to make came up with an idea to financially Center’s magazine, Centered on Taipei. contributions for the assist the infants and children at Tainan Her articles depicted the cultural Owelfare of others describes Siew Kang. St. Lucy’s Center. Word quickly spread aspects and significance of auspicious Born and raised in Malaysia, educated among the expat community, and by symbols in Chinese art. These articles at Harvard University and Smith the late fall of 2002, the first St. Lucy’s were of great benefit to the magazine’s College in the U.S., Siew has lived as an Bazaar was launched at the American readership, especially for those who expatriate spouse in the United States, Club in Taipei, a tradition that continues wanted to go to the National Palace Japan, the Philippines, Singapore, and to this day. Museum and have a lecture-tour from now Taiwan. Siew Kang’s vision, dedication Siew to learn more about this topic. During her time in Taiwan, Siew has contributed much to a number of important organizations and to our community. She currently serves on the boards of the Taipei American School and the American Club in Taipei. In 2009, Siew was awarded the Taipei Community Services Center’s Individual Community Leadership Award for her outstanding community service and leadership for raising funds for the Tainan St. Lucy’s Center, a home for babies and children whose families are unable to take care of them, and for her service to the Taipei Community Services Center. The story behind how St. Lucy’s Bazaar began is an interesting one. In

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shared a quote by Joseph Campbell, “follow your bliss…and doors will open where you didn’t know where they would be.” Siew adds: “And that has been my experience. I have met so many people and made friends through the various musical groups that I have been a part of. One thing kept leading to another. “I get such joy when singing along with my guitar or ukulele. All the more so when I am singing with others, as with the ukulele groups that I play with. Something magical happens when people make music together. Singing from the heart, singing freely. Sharing our voices. Connecting our hearts.” And Siew Kang’s heart is a very generous one. She loves people and they love her back. It is easy to see why she is a treasured member of our community.

JUDY YANG, MY INCREDIBLE MOM

TEXT & IMAGE: SYDNEY KO

beauty and the chaos that comes from putting a magazine together. She is the reason why I have always continuously challenged myself and to put myself out there in life. My high school career comes to an end in June, and I want to take the time to thank my mom, because I feel like I don’t say this enough. I want to thank my mom for putting up with all my phases from being an obsessive tap dancer and a tortured poet to a more stable teen. I want to thank my mom for teaching he first person that I knew make many visits to Taipei. My mom me and telling me that this world from Taipei was my mom, Judy would drive hours to show my brother will hit me hard in the face, but then Yang. Even though I grew up in and me the things that we can’t find in reminding me that I need to get right Hsinchu, I have paid numerous the small, semi-conductor company- back up, because getting the wind Tvisits to Taipei throughout my life. But infested place we live in. Whether it knocked out of you is the way to remind Hsinchu city has always been the place was a harmless retail therapy trip, or a your lungs how beautiful the air tastes. I call home. My mom, on the other Yo-Yo Ma concert, my mom made sure I want to thank her for telling me hand, lived in Taipei for most of her that we got the full Taipei experience. that it is okay to ask for others’ help life, but that’s not what made her the With frequent visits, it wasn’t long sometimes, because we simply can’t do quintessential Taipei native that she is. before I started falling for Taipei too. For everything on our own. Some mothers will tell you to wear some reason, city life fascinated me. I My mom is no Lorelai Gilmore, but a jacket when it’s cold outside, but my was curious about the pedestrians that she is the person who brought me into mom (in typical Taipei fashion) would make their way down the streets. I was the world and taught me that it was not just pack an extra jacket in my backpack, intrigued by the skyscrapers that seem so scary. because not getting sick was on the to blend in with the mountains that top of her priority list. Or perhaps it surround the city. Taipei’s skyline never is because she is smart, quick with fails to impress me. Sydney Ko is an avid coffee her remarks, warm but reserved, and Maybe, if it wasn’t for my mom’s drinker and an aspiring writer occasionally funny that really makes her continual car rides to Taipei, I wouldn’t with an insatiable hunger the quintessential Taipei native. have developed my boundless curiosity for hard truths. She wishes My mom moved to Hsinchu when she for the world. I wouldn’t have decided to travel the world one day, married my dad. After the move, she to take my summer internship with but before that happens, she gradually grew fond of the suburban Centered on Taipei, and commute to will patiently sip her mocha and read the lifestyle, but that didn’t mean we didn’t Taipei every single day; witnessing the nearest book she finds.

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 15 2018/2/20 下午11:01 COMMUNITY | PROFILE My Mother – A Pillar of Strength

TEXT & IMAGES: LIZ COETZEE

hen people ask me the plant nursery to breathe “some why I chose to come to different air.” At first, my mother’s Taiwan, I always reply beautiful smile couldn’t penetrate his with: “I didn’t choose troubled mind, but as time went on WTaiwan, Taiwan chose me”. Then of and after a few visits, he started to course the rest of the ‘top ten Taiwan smile. On each visit, my mother gave questions’ would follow… him a plant and told him to watch it “Are you married?” grow and to take care of it. And as “Why not?” time passed, the care that he gave to “Don’t you want children?” the plants, turned to care and love “How old are you?” towards himself. My mother’s favorite “Where are you from?” saying (and one that she lives by), is “No, which country (not the that “nobody is resistant to a smile and continent)?” some warmth”. “Then why are you not black?” I strive to be half the woman my “What do you do here in Taiwan?” mother is by serving my community “How much do you earn?” (I always through the healing arts of fasting lied when answering this question), retreats, colon hydrotherapy and My life in Taiwan since April 27th, making natural skincare products. I feel 1994 has been, like so many of my blessed to have had a woman like my fellow foreigners, one filled with amazingly strong women. I’ve always mother in my life. adventure, growth, melancholy, had the unshakable support of my appreciation, a longing for home, love, mother, the pillar in my life. At the age and so much more. I can truly say that of 83, my mother is still serving the I call Taiwan my home. When I go to community. Each morning at 7:30 she , I’d say that “I’m going brings tea and jam sandwiches to the home,” and when I return to Taiwan, workers (all women, mostly refugees I’d say the same. I feel lucky and from neighboring countries) and works privileged to have two homes. Living with them to get plants put in straight here has taught me that I can live pretty rows, to weed, to make new cuttings, much anywhere, because the world is water and replant seedlings. It’s a place essentially a good place and I’ll always of growth, creation and an opportunity find my tribe. to observe the cycles of life. When A big part of my tribe here has been customers show up, my mother walks patiently with them through the rows of plants under the shady canopy, while listening to their life stories. Most of the customers come for the solitude, the calm and the healing that this place offers, and they often refer to it as a “sanctuary.” Through years of dealing with Liz Coetzee is a South all kinds of people, my mother African living in Taiwan has developed the ability to sense since 1994. With personal what someone needs. One day an experience with her old customer showed up with her mother getting colorectal 50-year-old son. My mom saw that cancer in 2002, she the son was wrapped in a cloud became very interested in learning of darkness, and truly so. Due to more about natural approaches to depression, he was robbed of his life. healing disease. “I follow the approach His career as a lawyer had ended, and of detoxing through colon hydrotherapy he had to move back to his mother’s (remove, repair, restore) and fasting house. His mother brought him to (cleanse, nourish, renew). ”

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CHEN TSO-CHI A Journey Out of Silence

TEXT & IMAGES: CHEN TSO-CHI

THE DUSTY, FILM-COVERED certain mysteries for me, but these WINDOW were small compared to the mystery Between 1978 and 1980, I worked of myself, which I had to solve. In order in a bank. My job required that I count to earnestly find out who I was, and money. Day-after-day, I would sit doing why certain things happened to me, I what was expected of me. I stacked decided to stay in Germany. other people’s plans, hopes and dreams Germany offered me an opportunity …not my own. to receive a formal education. However, This job caused me to think about it soon became apparent that I also what I wanted to do with my life, and needed something else. A fierce how my ideas differed from those struggle waged itself inside of me, around me. Like many, I had come from a traditional Chinese family where I was protected from the outside world. I began to realize that I was not ready for living in the world outside my window. Like a silkworm, snugly inside its wrapped strings of silk, I was living in an environment that safely housed me. As I tried to “see” through this dusty, film- covered window, all the images were blurred and distorted. ilence has occupied a major part of my life. As a young CLEANING THE WINDOW girl, I was guided towards In the early 1980s, I managed to take silence by family traditions, some firm steps to come into my own. Sand by my culture. As a result, the I left the bank job. I began to travel. ways in which I tried to express myself Germany, America and Japan held and my creativity were clouded by the shadows that silence had cast over me. There have been three major phases in my life: the dusty or film-covered window, cleaning the window and, currently, the mirror.

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of traditions… many traditions. I can remember an old fish seller telling me how to tell the difference between a female fish and a male fish of a particular species. The male fish will always have an open mouth, he said, but the mouth of a female fish will be closed. Perhaps this was just a story, but it inspired me to continue to show others until I finally had to leave school and my awareness about women’s status in the classroom behind. I needed to go Taiwan. I drew a picture of female fish outside and see the German people lying on an ancient Chinese platter, with and see how they really lived their their mouths open, hoping to encourage lives. I needed to wander through other women to do the same. their towns and marketplaces, so that I My artwork now reflects my could see, listen and learn about their memories of Taiwan and the new lives, culture and ideas. I learned a lot, insights of my life. They are more of a especially about the openness which composite based on the different and existed regarding their expression of earlier influences, which I am now able political thought. to express with more depth and vivid When I came back to Taiwan, I was perspective. My artwork has changed. more aware of all the parts and stages That period, when I tried to view life that had made me a woman. I was no from a dirty window, was a time when I longer shy about how I looked. I had could not “see.” However, when I now come to realize that a body is nothing look at the reflection in my mirror, I to be ashamed of, nor was it meant to can see my past, my present and what be covered up under layers of clothing. I hope will be my future. But what is I could now paint the human body, as a more important is that I see my true form of natural beauty. self and I like what I see. THE MIRROR I have continued to seek out other My life in Taiwan from the 1990s women since my return to Taiwan. until now has been a period of By reaching out, I have found that reflection. Motherhood has been a I have a lot in common with them, mirror for me. As my child began to especially those from other parts of grow inside of my body, I would often our world. When we meet, we share pause and look at myself in the mirror, our thoughts, feelings, ideas, and I am to see what changes were occurring. no longer silent. This new life was transforming my thinking, and I began to look at the lives of other women, especially those that led simple lives. My feeling of being a mother has put me in touch with all women, especially my mother. I have gained feelings of contentment and peace, which are now deep within me. For me, the women I found in the marketplace represent life at its simplest. These women are receivers

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 18 2018/2/20 下午11:01 COMMUNITY The Most Inspiring Women I Have Met

TEXT & IMAGES: TOBIE OPENSHAW

n the years that I have been privileged to work with and document Taiwan’s indigenous people, I have come across some Iamazing, inspiring and humbling people. Most of those, I’ v e realized, also happen to be women. Indigenous society (with some notable ------memory) was fading. “She remembers exceptions) is largely patriarchal, but the old days well, but not so much the I soon observed that in many ways, YAKI IWAN recent events,” he said. the women let the men do their When we arrived at the large house So what does she remember? She parlays and their meetings and their perched on the mountainside, I saw remembers getting the tattoo, that’s “important” stuff – while the they get Yaki Iwan through the large sliding- for sure. It was super-painful, they had on with growing food, raising kids, glass door of her room. What a view to hold her down while they did the building community. They are the she has, I thought. The mountains were tattoo the traditional way - tapping tradition-minders and the language- shrouded in mist today, lovely in the on a set of sharp needles dipped in an teachers and the memory-keepers: way that mountains in Taiwan recede ink made from soot. And once it was welcoming to all, quick with a laugh, yet in serried silhouettes. Her grandson, healed, they gave it another pass – strong in adversity. 50-something and an elder in his own part of the reason why hers is one of That “soft power” is something that I right in these parts, welcomed us to the the clearest of all the tattoo aunties. have always admired, and it ties in with garden, where we set up our lights, and Most guidebooks say that the tattoo what I would like to share about five of a minute later she came out, under her was a rite of passage when a woman the most inspiring women I have met. own steam, and sat down in the spot demonstrated skill in weaving, but no, we had designated for her. She had she said, it was simply after her first a wizened face and impish eyes, but period. Then, the Japanese banned the most striking feature was the bold the face tattoo, tried to “civilize the and surprisingly clear tattoo that ran natives,” so she had to hide out in her Tobie Openshaw is over her cheeks down to her mouth, village. If the Japanese came round a South African- a distinctive basket weave pattern. she had to stay indoors. She tells of born filmmaker Baunay, who had agreed to be our young Atayal girls who were caught by living in Taiwan for guide today, introduced us. She was Japanese soldiers and had the tattoos nineteen years. His 104, maybe 105 years old, he told us, scraped off their faces with broken work has been seen and one of only six women remaining glass. Since there was no school in her on documentary channels such as with the traditional face tattoo. To her, village, that meant she simply went National Geographic, Discovery, and he spoke loudly and clearly, in Atayal. without an education. Al Jazeera. Tobie’s current passion Her hearing was poor and she spoke We presented Yaki Iwan with a red lies with the marginalized indigenous little Mandarin. “Yaki, this is Tobie, envelope to say thank-you for her time, people of Taiwan, where he has forged and Leo. Leo would like to take your and were somewhat quiet on the long deep connections. For the past year photo.” She smiled a brittle smile, a drive back down the mountain, each of he has been producing a full-length little uncomfortable under the close us ruminating on the beautiful soul that documentary on the Taiwan president’s attention, but this is clearly not her first had just graced us with its presence. 2016 apology to the indigenous people. time in front of the camera. Soon she A mere four months after our visit, In 2013 Tobie travelled to New Zealand was chatting with Baunay, while we Yaki Iwan succumbed to the cold air in where he attended the Wairoa Maori busied ourselves capturing the soul of the mountains, catching pneumonia Film Festival and forged connections this so very old, and so very beautiful and dying peacefully in her sleep; that are coming to fruition in various woman. Conversation was a slow another piece of Taiwan’s “Living cross-cultural and cross-Pacific projects. process because her hearing (and her Heritage” gone forever.

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Hana oversees a group of boisterous kids Hana helps clean up after a typhoon dumped mud on the Youth Center during a workshop

------Waqi’s husband is Laling, a young Atayal man who passionately guards HANA WAQI QMISAN and promotes the concept of “gaga” – Up in the Wufong mountains In the hot summer months, the Atayal “code of the mountains” if in is the Atayal Waqi’s house is beautifully cool. At you will. An activist for hunting rights village of Chingchuan. Famous for 1,500 meters above sea level, and and custodianship of the traditional its Japanese-era hot springs, in the entirely made out of bamboo, this land, he has taken his fight to the erstwhile home of the “Young Marshal” is a perfect example of living with legislature. Waqi, we are surprised Zhang Xueliang, a Chinese warlord who nature, not merely in it. We had just to learn, is not indigenous at all. She was held in these beautiful surroundings had a wonderful lunch of traditional hails from the east coast, but when in the most gentle of house arrests, vegetables, spread out on broad leaves, she married Laling, she completely and in contrast, for San Mao, a tragic when she said, “Oh wait, I make you a and wholeheartedly adopted his heroine and bohemian role model special drink.” She went outside and traditional way of life. A trained graphic of Taiwanese women of the martial- picked a few sprigs off a tree in front of artist in her own right, she has taken law-era 70s and 80s. Its most noted the house, added some water and raw on the preschool education of her current occupant is Jesuit Father Barry cane sugar, and topped it off with a few and the village’s children, in their Martinson, famous for his stained-glass kernels of makao, the lemony native native language, as the key to keeping art, and Yahwee, a Lanyu artist who peppercorn beloved of indigenous the traditions of gaga alive. Their learned stained-glass art from Fr. Barry. cooks on the island. The resultant drink 3-year-old boy plays around near the Whenever I visit there, however, my was light and with a refreshing zip. fire, “doing his part” by dragging sticks paths cross with Hana, wife to Yahwee, catechist and surrogate mother for the kids in the village, general organizer- of-everything. Whenever we want to do some activity with a group of kids, we only need to call up Hana, and on the day the kids will be there ready to go, the choir will be ready to sing, food will have been organized, everything ready. And along the way you will see Hana ever-present: providing guidance for the kids, teaching them personal hygiene, making sure they are playing fair, sharing. And of course, she will marshal everyone’s help for the cleanup afterwards. Such women very often go unrecognized, but I am always aware that they are the glue that holds a society together. Waqi Qmisan

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up to throw on it. While Waqi keeps a singers around the world, collaborating together you could see the sisterly watchful eye, you can also tell that this on a collection of works that would bonds begin to form. Then they started kid is growing up to learn the way the resonate with all indigenous people. working on the song. natural world works, and there is to be So naturally, considering that the Inka has a deeply peaceful air about no coddling. Austronesians migrated out of Taiwan her, but, when she sat down, closed Waqi tells us that she has thrown over a period of 6,000-plus years to her eyes and started rolling a few notes her net far in order to get assistance finally reach New Zealand and become around, everyone quieted down … and and information about starting an the ancestors of modern-day Maori, the next moment she opened up her immersion school for young village she was looking for Taiwan indigenous pipes and a sound so powerful came kids. The Maori in New Zealand has artists to collaborate with, to complete out of her that we all stood transfixed. developed a promising model for Te that arc across the Pacific Ocean. It was one of those rare moments when Reo Maori education, to ensure kids are I immediately thought of Inka you are in the presence of pure, raw steeped in the tradition, carried by the Mbing – a semi-retired Atayal singer talent that just spills out of the person language. She has had lots of obstacles whom I had met a few months before in front of you …. to overcome, many of them tone-deaf on another collaborative project. From the beginning it was clear that government regulations, but every time Arrangements were made, funding was there were significant differences in I spend some time up in that mountain sought, and a few months later, Moana their style, that each of them believe bamboo home, she is closer to her goal, arrived and we drove up into the in, and have strong motivations for. and I find myself uplifted by the serene mountains. They both feel a responsibility towards grace and strength of this extraordinary Moana is very famous in New their people and their culture, and woman. Zealand, has won multiple awards especially their youth – that almost (including being inducted into the goes without saying. Moana says, ------New Zealand Music Hall of Fame) and reach the kids with electronic synth is regarded as one of the foremost and beats; that way you keep them modern fusion singers in Te Reo Maori. interested. Inka, the purist, says if you She is also politically active and a do that, the next generation may think documentary filmmaker in her own THAT is “traditional music.” From right. these different perspectives, and Inka, in contrast, lives a life of relative each being strong and forceful in their solitude in the mountains, preferring position while committed to making the clear air, growing her own food and collaboration work, they managed to eating vegan. She does not often forge a compromise and a collaboration perform anymore, so it was a real that was absolutely stunning to see honor to have her even agree to this grow and develop, and open, like a project. She is slight and quiet, and flower. Observing and documenting seemed a little reserved at first. that process was fascinating. But we had managed to secure Within a day, we were all whanau a brilliant translator who could – “family,” and as family we cooked communicate really well as an together, laughed together, and interlocutor to both of them, and celebrated indigenous woman-power within half a day of cooking and eating together. I shall never forget it. MOANA AND INKA I had the privilege of meeting celebrated Maori singer Moana Maniapoto at the Indigenous Music Festival in Taoyuan. She filled the stage with her presence, and sang in Te Reo Māori with a synth background that should have sounded out of place, but didn’t – showing that the traditional and the modern can be made to work together in harmony. The audience didn’t understand the words, but the vibe and the energy was all they needed, and she received thunderous applause from the largely indigenous audience. At dinner after her set, she told us that she was working on an album, featuring songs that she recorded with Sami Museum a number of representative indigenous

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urrounded by the partly industrial relics in Taitung. dilapidated buildings of Today the Taitung Sugar Factory is the former Taitung Sugar worth a visit if you plan a trip to the Factory, a sense of nostalgia city. In 2004 the site was approved Scame over me as my imagination took for the development of a cultural me back into history, wondering about and creative industrial park, and ever how it has already stood at this spot for since many artists and creatives have ninety years. been involved in blowing new life and The Taitung Sugar Factory was built in character into the bones of this once 1913, during the Japanese occupation. buzzing factory. It first belonged to the Taitung Sugar Currently, the Taitung Sugar Factory Manufacturing Company, but this was is home to Ashui’s Workshop (阿水工 later merged with the Meiji Sugar 房). Ashui (陳正瑞．阿水) who is from Company in 1943. In 1946 it was the Amis tribe, is a well-established renamed the Taitung Sugar Factory of artist and is famous for his incredible the Taitung Sugar Corporation, when work with wood and metal. Apart it was taken over by the national from his sculptures, his showroom also government. In 1996 the factory was displays impressive wood furniture, closed and became the largest site of which is well worth seeing. Taitung: Colorful and Unique

TEXT & IMAGES: MAUDIE BROWN

Ashui, his wife, me and their two dogs.

NEW LIGHT THROUGH OLD WINDOWS Another attraction at the Taitung Sugar Factory is The Garage (台東糖 廠。庫空間). I can still remember the terrible broken-down condition of the old garage building during my first visit to the Taitung Sugar Factory in 2014. To my surprise, Ashui’s wife, Měi Lián Huáng (黃美蓮) took on the mission to renovate this building and managed to turn it into a magnificent creative space. Big glass windows on both sides create a clean, fresh atmosphere with an amazing view of the green rice fields which lends an opportunity for customers to connect with nature. The products that are promoted in the shop are handmade. The Garage offers different DIY activities on a weekly

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top left: an old lady is preparing banana tree trunk to turn them into weavable fibers top: Elders from Dulan village taught me how to make fabric from tree bark

introduced to the art of woodcarving, and was invited to make a sculpture out of Taiwan cedarwood. I feel really fortunate to have been able to learn from Ashui and Panay (林戎依), who basis, for a fun, interactive and creative and colorful destination. I was very are both skilled in this discipline. I was atmosphere. You can also enjoy a fresh fortunate to be one of the participants also exceptionally fortunate to visit cup of coffee or handmade ice cream at of the 2017 Taitung International many aboriginal tribes and villages, The Garage Cafe next door. Exchange Program on Cultural Crafts where I got to learn about their Taitung has its own unique culture and Design, which was hosted by the traditional crafts. I got the chance to and character compared to the rest Department of Cultural Affairs, Taitung visit a Paiwan village, where we were of Taiwan. There’s something down- County Government, during September taught how to make their traditional to-earth and unpretentious about and October of last year. I was one of beads from ceramic clay. We visited the people of Taitung that I really three international artists who were the village of Dulan, where some of appreciate. is also invited to do a residency and exchange the elders from the Amis tribe taught home to several of Taiwan’s indigenous with three local artists from Taitung us how to make fabric from tree bark. tribes, which makes it a very diverse County. During this program I was I also got to see how banana tree fiber is being used for weaving, and we got a chance to weave baskets from the shell ginger plant. This was an extremely rich experience, and I can only hope more people learn about and appreciate the diversity of the cultural beauty of this beautiful corner of Taiwan.

Maudie Brown is a South African who grew up in the village of D'kar in Botswana. She's currently residing in Taipei.

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 23 2018/2/21 下午4:38 FASHION & BEAUTY The Reed Dance: A Rite-of-Passage for Swazi Girls

TEXT: ZEE DLAMINI IMAGE: WEB

he early morning sun dances ruling structures of the Kingdom. It is to respect each other as women, over a dazzling sea of young made up of Swazi girls from all parts of no matter what their economic or girls, who have all left their the Swazi Kingdom, divided into two educational background may be. Quick homes to attend the annual age groups; 8-13 years old and 14-22 learners might even walk away with Tcultural event of the nation, the years old, and each division is led by handicraft, weaving or beading skills Umhlanga Reed Dance. They sing in a Princess from the House of Dlamini. that the girls share with each other unison, all dressed in colorful, uniform Within these two major divisions there over the period of the Reed Dance. It maiden traditional regalia. are sub-divisions which represent each is here that they learn to appreciate For as long as the Swazi Kingdom has of the 385 Chiefdoms found within camaraderie. existed, the Umhlanga Reed Dance has Swaziland. The chiefdom sub-divisions always been a source of pride for the are led by their respective Inkhosatana A MESMERIZING KALEIDOSCOPE young Swazi maiden, symbolizing her (principal daughter), where her family During the eight-day period, the chastity and willingness to work in unity is the guardian ruler on behalf of His government takes care of all logistics with her peers for her country’s service. Majesty. Each sub-division is given and expenses for the maidens and They are all members of the Imbali an older male warrior escort, who is their escorts. The girls set up camp (flower) regiment. supported by the army and national in two farms, which are designed to Although the Umhlanga Reed Dance police service to supervise and ensure house all of them in tents and mini is popularly known as the event the safety of the country’s most quarters along with outdoor makeshift where His Majesty King Swati III of precious citizens. food stations. From there they trek Swaziland chooses a bride, this is not Overall, the entire regiment is varying distances of between ten and true - it’s a juicy piece of gossip that headed by the Principal Princess of thirty kilometers to reach the two reed makes the Reed Dance a more afro- Swaziland, Her Royal Highness Princess fields (one for each age group). This centric narrative, but alas he only Sikhanyiso Dlamini, who is assisted is the toughest part of the cultural unveils his fiancé to his subjects at the by a Chief Maiden chosen by Their celebration: running into a river in second reed dance ceremony, which Majesties. cold winter temperatures to cut the a majority of non-Swazis have never best reeds is not an easy or glamorous even heard about. CARE, COMPASSION AND task. It’s here where strength, survival The true purpose of the famous CAMARADERIE instincts and wit are challenged. Reed Dance is for the young girls to The Imbali regiment represents many After reed-cutting, each member cut reeds, present them to the Queen things for the Kingdom of Swaziland, of the regiment is expected to deliver Mother, and repair the windbreak including taking pride in your feminity her load to Her Majesty the Queen around her traditional royal residence. and womanhood. In turn the country’s Mother before the big day of festivities: They then dance in celebration. citizens are expected to respect and the main Reed Dance event, in which Repairing the windbreaks is a common care for the young female warriors just maidens from the Zulu and Ndebele activity in any Swazi traditional as they would tend to their own flower Kingdoms also participate. homestead. Every year, up to forty gardens in their homes. This is the day where columns upon thousand girls voluntarily attend the It also provides leadership, columns of young women sing and eight-day festival which begins and mentorship and knowledge-sharing dance like a slow-moving centipede finishes at Ludzidzini Royal Residence, opportunities for maidens; from an across the parade grounds of Ludzidzini the official home of Her Majesty early age they learn about cooperating Royal Residence. Up close, it’s an the Queen Mother (Indlovukazi), or collaborating with other women, overwhelming immersion in noise and who assists in ruling The Kingdom learn and partake in leadership roles gorgeously-crafted costumes and color. of Swaziland, alongside her son, His and structures that undoubtedly A mesmerizing kaleidoscope. Majesty King Mswati III. influence their adult life, get an opportunity to network and mentor IMPROVING THE LIVES OF SWAZI THE IMBALI REGIMENT those who may be in need, develop GIRLS The formation of the Imbali regiment a sense of compassion towards other Over the years, The Imbali regiment, is in accordance with the traditional females, and, most important, learn led by the Principal Princess, has had

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considerable influence in matters or sexual violence against women the traditional activity. Simply because concerning the girl child. It was with and girls, and forced, by law, to alert at the heart of this ceremony are the The Reed Dance: the Imbali regiment in mind that the the rightful authorities. The Judicial values that most societies desire: the age of consent for traditional marriages branch of government was compelled ability for their young girls to learn was changed from 13 to 21 years old. to amend old laws and enact new ones how to help and empower one another Leaders of the regiment spoke against to protect girls and punish perpetrators without having to benefit from that act entering marriage without the consent with harsher sentences. of sisterhood. of the bride, and successfully added a clause in the country’s constitution that A NEW UNITY NOTE makes it illegal for any man or family to When harsh economic conditions I often joke about how modern take a bride without her consent. began to affect many of Imbali’s Swazi girls and women can wear the When Swaziland was dealing with members, the Principal Princess latest fashions, drive the best sports rapidly rising HIV infection rates, in enforced uniformity throughout all vehicle or be able to vacation in ranks of the regiment, from hairstyles a bid to protect the younger female Monaco, yet in the blink of an eye, to a no-jewelry or pricy branded populace (Imbali), Their Majesties be walking barefoot in traditional re-introduced a century-old tradition items rules, so no girl feels less than textiles, and living like a pauper for called Umcwasho, as a national decree. the others. In addition, the Imbali eight days every year for at least Every virgin girl had to wear these Foundation was created with the fifteen years of their life. And we colorful strands of wool and beads purpose to empower young women do it so effortlessly - I find that so to encourage her to wait until she within the regiment, and also to hilarious; it humbles you in ways reaches a mature age before engaging provide the basic necessities to all that nobody can understand. in sexual activity. Whether Umcwasho those who attend the Reed Dance, was successful or not is unclear, but The Taiwanese Government, along it symbolized a tipping power point with local private businesses, have in Swaziland’s patriarchal society. been dedicated donors of the Imbali Women were empowered to speak Foundation. up against rampant abuse and gender Many Swazi girls take pride in Zee Dlamini is a digital discrimination across the country. participating in the Reed Dance, and PR strategist turned As a result, the traditional courts (at some even see it as an important rite of fashion stylist/fashion which only male judges can preside) passage into adulthood. They defy the blogger, in addition to being a full-time were stripped of their powers in influences of modern society and look mommy with a zest for life and a lover matters involving any form of domestic past those who may not agree with of all things good.

Howard Brewer In Remembrance– A Longtime of Resident and Friend of Taiwan

August 18, 1928 to January 26, 2018

he local and international community was saddened Howard was one of the earliest members of the American to learn of the passing of Howard Brewer, a longtime Club Taipei’s (ACC) and a notable tennis player. He was one resident and friend of Taiwan. of the founding members of the popular men’s basketball Born in Pasco, Washington, Howard spend most of team called “The Butchers,” which is still active. Howard This childhood on his family’s ranch in Glenwood, Washington. was considered the leader (or “Chairman,” as he was He later enlisted in the United States Navy, serving in the affectionately called) of this basketball group. Korean War (1950 – 1953), subsequently earning the rank He was a kung fu and chi kung enthusiast and a practicing of Lieutenant Commander before going on to become a Buddhist and Taoist. To some, Howard may have seemed U.S. Navy intelligence officer in Japan and Taiwan during like an eccentric, and to others he was a mentor and deeply the 1960s. After retiring from the U.S. Navy in the early spiritual man. He had a quiet strength about him. 1970s, Howard returned to Taiwan as a civilian. He and some Besides his family in Washington and older brother Jim of his buddies from his days on the basketball court with Brewer in Denver, Colorado, Howard will be greatly missed by the Navy became involved in business together. In 1975, Faye Angevine, his Bai Win family and many friends. He will Howard opened his own company, Bai Win Mercantile, a be remembered fondly. manufacturer and export company, which later included an antique showroom in the Tianmu area.

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Yoga is a Frontrunner for Women Holistic Wellness

TEXT: MALABIKA DAS, PHD, MSW, RYT IMAGE: WEB

y passion for yoga and processed trauma and my spirit wounds The system is set up to medicate, not to holistic wellness ignited began to heal. So began (and continues) illuminate the strengths that women do in 2000, during a trek a transformative and interconnected have. Our innate sense of empathy and in Nepal’s Annapurna healing journey. compassion can become numb. While MountainM Range. It is there when By integrating yoga for myself, I medication is needed at times, is it so I accessed synchronistic energies discovered what many have realized; radical to seek out a new normal? and vibrations that opened me up that yoga can be an effective, “Yoga chitta vritti nirodha” reveals to the universe. My academic and integrative system of holistic wellness that the original intention of yoga professional journey ensued and my practices. Yoga has gained worldwide was to pacify/still the whirlpools/ calling to help others was reinforced. popularity more than even a few years fluctuations of our mind. Nowadays, Throughout my work with individuals ago. The majority of practitioners and yoga’s physical posture practice has and families who had experienced consumers of this reported 80-billion- dominated the application of yoga. domestic violence, sexual assault, dollar global industry, are women. However, it is only one aspect of incest, torture and conflict-induced This comes as no surprise if you have yoga’s eight limbs as described in the displacement, it became glaringly attended any yoga class. Also, not Yoga Sutras. These writings brought apparent that traditional counseling surprisingly, is that we women often forth a system of wellbeing and self- was simply not enough or at times, move through life at excessive speed development and the eight limbs suitable. An integrative, strengths based within the variety of roles we take on act as guidelines encompassing the approach, inclusive of all aspects of or are placed on us. Congruently, we, in physical, mental and spiritual path. health, was necessary to work with our own ways, challenge the oppression This includes our behaviors, morals survivors of trauma. Yogic and other and repression within these roles. and values (yamas and niyamas), complementary practices became Often, it can feel like our minds and seated meditation preparation through integral within my approach. bodies are constantly on overdrive physical postures (asana), directive While utilizing and promoting and in survival mode. Coupled with breath work (pranayama), senses holistic modalities for others, it was this, are the unrealistic and superficial withdrawal from external stimulation my personal encounters with trauma societal expectations we face. The (pratyahara), concentration (dharana), that would self-actualize the body- bombardment of disempowering sexist meditation (dhyana), and ultimately mind-spirit healing journey. Yoga, in messages and unhealthy external connection with our spiritual goals particular, became a primary healing stimulation through social media, (samadhi). modality. As I attended yoga classes, media, and sometimes even our Numerous yoga benefits include, but I noticed an array of transformation. partners, families and communities. are not limited to, increased oxygen, Physically, my strength, balance Violence against us has been overtly muscle strength, bone density, joint and flexibility increased, and toxins and subtly normalized by the machine, integrity, focus and concentration and released. Mentally, I felt more at ease, impacting our mental health and overall decreased stress, toxins, and weight. and readily able to access my innate wellbeing. Specific for women can be endocrine strengths and positivity. As my guilt Statistics support how depression system support throughout the subsided, my forgiveness towards has higher prevalence in females than developmental lifespan, particularly myself and others grew. Spiritually, I males from adolescence onwards. during puberty, pregnancy, post- reconnected to my authenticity and the Women are more likely to receive pregnancy, and post menstruation. universe, accepting the ebbs and flow anxiety and depression diagnoses, be Hormonal fluctuations impact the of life’s joys and challenges. My body prescribed prescription drugs and be physical body through weight gain, released trauma, my mind adaptively targeted by Big Pharma advertisements. toxin accumulation, and structural

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transformation, which can often be the rise of community based yoga of individual wellness create waves of stressful and taxing. Additionally, initiatives help in enabling access to community and societal wellness. hormonal changes impact mood, marginalized groups. I am happy to say that l will always energy level and cognitive beliefs There are also risks in doing yoga; be a student of yoga and of life, while around appearance and self-worth, yoga injuries are steadily on the rise. also assisting others on their wellness influencing self-confidence and self- When overlooking the golden rule of journeys. I am a tri-cultural woman, esteem. yoga- ahimsa (non harm), some often trauma survivor, a daughter, a mother, In this scenario, yoga can be helpful push through asana when their bodies a spouse, a lover of nature and creative in several ways. The breath is key in are not ready. Often this is influenced forces, a social worker, a wellness yoga; pranayama can activate the by a lack of satya (truthfulness) of facilitator, and more that I have yet to neurological and respiratory systems. where they are in the present moment, realize. While I acknowledge that yoga This can combat worry, anxiety, or lack of aparigraha (non coveting of is not suited for or liked by everyone; sadness, hypertension, and toxins others or things). Also, social media it and other holistic health practices while enhancing focus, concentration, photos of yogis in acrobatic poses represent the future of health and mindfulness and even weight loss. propagate a superficial image, creating wellness-for all. This is because they Asana can assist in balancing the a myth of yoga that is one directional, embody all aspects of health: the reproductive organs and metabolism. focused only on the physical attributes. mental, physical, spiritual, social and Restorative asana can calm the nervous However, if practiced safely and environmental. system and activate the relaxation mindfully, these risks can largely be response, encouraging a harmonious minimized. relationship between mind and body. As I have, increasingly, many women Barriers to access yoga are plenty. find themselves drawn to this ancient Malabika is an The myth that body flexibility is yet contemporary system of wellbeing. integrative social required falsely propagates an While yoga offers many individual worker trained in intimidating and self-defeating belief, wellness benefits, it also promotes Eastern and Western since flexibility can be a byproduct of service to others and a social justice therapeutic modalities. doing yoga. Some cite religious or faith lens. As we steadily improve our own She uses a strengths-based trauma based conflicts, but the Yoga Sutras aim holistic health, we are able to be of approach with her wellness initiatives. to make yoga secular. Lack of access or greater and more effective service to She currently lives in Taipei with her affordability poses a barrier, however humanity and the planet. The ripples husband and daughter (and loves it)!

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 27 2018/2/20 下午11:01 HEALTH Healthy Habits, Healthy Heart

TEXT: SUE BARDWELL DETISCH IMAGES: WEB

ife is a dime on its edge. to eliminate some risk factors many or light-headed. Common complaints Nobody knows this better years ago. I quit smoking and drinking masking heart disease can be unusual than a heart-attack survivor. alcohol. I modified my intake of red fatigue, difficulty sleeping, indigestion, It was unthinkable that a meat and carbohydrate-laden foods and and anxiety. Many women delay heartL attack should happen to me. reduced my intake of refined sugar and seeking emergency medical treatment, But it did. My doctor said, “I’m not salt. I exercised. With these changes, but if they wait too long, it may be too sure if there is anything I could have I grew complacent that I’d taken the late. Time is essential in having the done to thwart your attack,” but now necessary steps to prevent heart needed angioplasty done to open up that it has happened I have a choice disease. I thought it wouldn’t happen to blocked arteries and restore the healthy to make. I can either wallow in the me. I am a woman, and weren’t heart flow of blood to the heart muscle. muck of depression that frequently attacks more of a male domain issue Another reason that the mortality follows a trauma, or live deliberately: than female? rate is higher for women, according to renewed, challenged, exuberant, and This is a misconception. “Women Dr. Mimi Guarneri, is that ”Women are full of purpose. That said, I feel I have have gained equality in this disease, far less likely than men to receive basic a responsibility to tell other women making it the number one killer of medical care that could significantly who mistakenly believe that coronary women in the United States. Five reduce their heart attack and stroke disease is mostly gender specific to hundred thousand women die yearly risk. Many physicians order fewer men. The truth is more women die from heart disease – a figure that tests for women and prescribe fewer from heart attacks than men. exceeds the next seven causes of death preventative measures such as daily combined” It’s easy to be fooled by aspirin, diet, and cholesterol and ARM YOURSELF WITH stereotypes and presumptions of who blood-pressure-lowering medications” INFORMATION AND BE PROACTIVE! might be at risk. Heart attacks are Women need to be self-advocates. When my doctor said she didn’t indiscriminate in their choice of victims, Nobody knows her body better than know what should have been done and heart disease can be a silent killer. the body’s owner. differently, I thought about things I There are some mitigating reasons could have done. Above all, I should for the astonishing number of female A UNIQUE CHRISTMAS PRESENT have listened to my body’s warnings. deaths, including age. Although age Like many other women survivors It warned me that something was not is not always a factor, the drop in before my heart attack in December, I quite right. I dismissed my instincts. I estrogen during menopause could be lived under an umbrella of denial, false brushed off fatigue, sleep problems, a significant risk. Diabetes puts women security, and blissful ignorance. anxiety, and indigestion. I could easily at greater risk than men. And emotions It was mid-afternoon on Friday, excuse these: no red flags. are also a risk factor. Mayo Clinic December 22nd, three days before I was unaware that over the years lists mental stress, depression, and Christmas. My house dazzled with fatty deposits, called plaque, had “Broken Heart Syndrome,” (takotsubo holiday brilliance. It was clean and been forming in my arteries. This cardiomyopathy) as some. ready for family and guests. Mulling plaque had narrowed my arteries and Women are more apt to dismiss their spices infused the air. Food was bought, reduced the blood flow to my heart. symptoms than men. One reason for prepared, and stored, ready to serve. It wasn’t surprising that I was caught this is that symptoms can be vague. Worn-out ornaments were replaced unprepared: There can be no symptoms Symptoms can occur while resting or by new ones on my Christmas tree. It at all when the blockage is less than even sleeping. Most women describe sparkled with lights, ribbon, and crystal fifty percent. them as subtle and widespread ice cycles. At its top was a cute Santa I was raised on a dairy-heavy diet discomfort, although some may topper to delight my grandchildren. with cream, cheese, and butter. These experience the crushing chest pain Mid-day, I felt a discomfort in my were my choice “comfort foods,” typically associated with a heart attack. upper chest, upper back, and throat: to which I would return for baking Symptoms are possibly a squeezing a complaint I’d never felt before. It and entertaining my entire life. I was pressure or fullness in the chest area, was at once too painful to ignore and vaguely aware that heart disease ran discomfort in one or both arms, the too indeterminate to identify. Neither in my mother’s family. But it was easy back, neck, jaw, or stomach. There passing time nor attempts at resting for me to deny the potential impact of might be shortness of breath, without helped. I called out to my husband for heredity on my life: “Predisposition isn’t chest discomfort. Victims may break help. “I think I’m having a heart attack,” always destiny” However, I attempted out in a cold sweat, feel nauseated, I admitted. “You’re too healthy,” he

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protested. Finally, as the symptoms seemed to pose no problem. not depressed — four times as likely.” persisted, he suggested an ambulance. But, surprisingly every thirty yards or Type-A women can carry feelings of I begged for him to drive me: “No so I needed to stop to catch my breath. cynicism and hostility that tend to raise sirens for me, please!” It was fortunate My husband patiently waited for me to their stress hormones. High-stress that I arrived at the nearest hospital catch up to him. Each time as I huffed hormones result in higher cholesterol emergency room in the nick of time. and puffed to join him, he looked at and blood sugar levels: risk factors for The EKG alerted the cardiologist. me quizzically: “Are you all right?” He heart disease. These women may feel I was immediately carted into an wondered. “Must be the altitude,” I pushed, competitive, goal-directed, examining room. My pulse suddenly explained. When we arrived at the Tea and sometimes isolated and hostile. In dropped dangerously low, and House, another hiker approached me. many cases, the mask of hostility covers cardiologists filled the room. A catheter Smilingly, he congratulated me. “I’m emotional pain. Depression, anxiety, was inserted into the carotid artery in glad to see you made it!” Two others and a sense of low self-efficacy can be my neck. Dopamine was administered saw what I denied myself by not letting predictors of major illness, including into my IV to raise my pulse rate. my heart speak. It was warning me. heart disease. Chilled intravenous solution was Until recently it was believed that Mothers have a particular kind of pumped into my veins for therapeutic the brain is the catalyst for rushing the stress. They are caregivers. Not only hypothermia. Nevertheless, I began many emotions we feel to the rest of do they tend to their family’s tender to lose consciousness. Voices became our body. More recently, however, responsibilities, but they also take on muted blurs. I sensed my gurney being the heart is considered an organ of the near-impossible task of scheduling pushed through the corridors to the great intelligence, “…with its nervous and running children to their myriad catheter laboratory. Several hours later, system, decision-making powers, and after-school activities. They supervise after two stents were inserted into connections to the brain. It also has its their households, act as control points two of my antral arteries, and fresh logic that tunes it into the senses that for communication, are moderators, blood once again began to flow into are transformed into nerve impulses tutors, ministers, and coaches. Many my heart. I was lucky. Fortunately, I that permeate the brain.” It has been mothers do all this (and more), and got help in time by a team of skilled called “The Little Brain,” because it still find time for careers, professions, cardiac physicians, and my loving family acts independently of the cranial brain: or jobs. It’s no wonder that there is no surrounded me. to learn, remember, even sense, and time left for a rest, taking care of their feel. Does it intuit? Victims have been health and mental well-being. What LISTEN TO WHAT YOUR HEART IS noted after their heart attacks to recall time is there to consider what would TELLING YOU! premonitions of death or despair. In happen to their personal universe if If I had listened to the warnings my my case, I had trouble sleeping. I’d they should suddenly disappear? body was giving me as long ago as last become afraid to go to sleep. My daughter called me just now. June, I might have enjoyed Christmas The American Heart Association Winter break has ended, and she is due with my family. has done a good job of educating to return to her teaching job tomorrow. My husband and I visited Banff, in women of changes they can make “I don’t want to go back,” she said, her the Canadian Rocky Mountains early in their lifestyles that will help avoid voice muffled, holding back tears. summer last year when snow blanketed coronary heart disease. To live a pro- “Why not?” I asked, feeling very the mountains, but a glorious spring active life, one should quit smoking and disappointed. She is a resource bouquet of wildflowers carpeted the take control of high blood pressure, specialist for her middle school. She ground. This national park is situated cholesterol levels, and diabetes. has been nominated for city-wide nearly five thousand feet above sea Stay physically active and maintain “teacher of the year,” dynamic in level. Soon after arriving, we took the a healthy weight. Eat a low-fat, low- the classroom, and had been very two-mile Lake Agnes Tea House Hike, salt diet, rich in fruits, vegetables, enthusiastic about working with which begins by turquoise Lake Louise and whole grains. Finally, reduce and her special-needs students. She is at the famous Fairmont Chateau Hotel. manage stress. Coronary disease may ambitious, and she is an achiever. When The hike is rated “moderate,” a two- be emotional and spiritual as well as I reinforced these talents to her, she hour climb of about thirteen-hundred physical, according to Doctor Guarneri. admitted to me that she did recognize feet on a switchback trail. Below, the Other than the more recognizable risk them in herself, but… surreal Lake Louise diminishes in size, factors, others might include social, …she was struggling with the until finally, it disappears from view. psychological, and spiritual issues. politics. I let her talk. I listened to what The trail passes by tumultuous falls, Specifically, cardiologists are looking at she had to say, validated her feeling, rocky streams, and dense woods. isolation, depression, and hostility. and empathized with her. Then I I felt confident about my ability to Chronic depression “stands beside reminded her that she had just finished take the Tea House Hike. Although I high blood pressure and elevated three weeks of being very busy after am a seventy-three-year old woman, cholesterol as a major risk factor a hard semester of teaching. During I regularly chart five- to six-mile walks for heart disease. Those with heart the winter break, she occupied her along sandy ocean beaches near disease who are depressed have an elementary-aged children, caught up my home in San Diego, California. A increased risk of death after a heart with housekeeping chores she’d put off moderate hike like the Tea House Hike attack compared with those who are while working, and put Christmas magic

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into her home. And she’d had to deal of technology, humans can connect struggle with issues of despair, when with a sick mother who was recovering to anyone, anywhere, at any time. we need to talk to a good friend, or from a heart attack. Paradoxically many complain of when we should take time for ourselves We discussed her frustrations for a feeling lonely and isolated. They see to refurbish and renew. The heart while, and she asked my advice. I told themselves as separate souls, “islands also will tell us when we are joyous, her that I felt her source of energy had of consciousness confronting an alien contented, and hopeful. Focusing on become depleted. “You are simply world.” Many struggle with issues of spiritual, emotional, and physical self- exhausted,” I said. It was time for her loneliness. Loneliness and despair care may help us avoid an attack. Being to recharge her batteries, recognize her can increase inflammation throughout aware of warning signals to keep in inner beauty and character strengths. the body, heighten levels of stress mind might keep us forearmed. In the “Do some positive reaffirming, take hormones, and create an increased risk busy life of a woman, nobody needs to some time for yourself now, today,” I of heart attacks and strokes. take time to listen to what her heart suggested. “Go into your room, shut the Contrarily, social interaction is telling her more then she herself door, and let someone else take care of improves the function of genes that does. So busy giving care to others, she your kids while you take some me-time.” produce antibodies that fight infection. needs to take time to care for herself. A But, I felt a sudden grip of fear. Didn’t According to Psychology Today, healthy healthy heart needs healthy habits. my daughter’s behaviors reflect my people share similar attributes. They own? And might they not be destructive focus on quality over quantity. While Recommended Reading: behaviors that might put her on the social media may provide a seeming The Heart Speaks path of future coronary heart disease abundance of “friends,” a few good By Mimi Guarneri, M.D., FACC (distress, frustration, and hostility)? friends are hard to find and a treasure Simon and Schuster, 2006 Hopefully she found some help in to keep. People with healthy social coming to me and venting. I listened, tools tend to seek face-to-face Program for Reversing Heart Disease validated her, and tried to support her. relationships rather than depending By Dr. Dean Ornish As someone said, the “I” in isolation on telephones and the Internet. They Random House, New York, 1990 causes illness; the “We” in wellness share personal bits of information, and heals. Perhaps in knowing that in her they listen to others responsively by family and solid spousal support she asking questions about what they hear. Sue Bardwell Detisch is has a team backing her, she will feel The heart that beats within your a long-time resident of reinforced, and pull on our loving chest is much more than merely a San Diego, California. A strength for her own. blood pump. It holds treasures of retired English teacher, she Seventeenth Century poet John memories, feelings, joy, sorrow, grief, spends her free time with Donne recognized that “No man and hopefulness. It is an organ to listen her husband, three daughters, four is an island.” Now in the Twenty- to, care for, and understand. It will tell grandchildren, and walking on the beach first Century, through the miracle us when we work too hard, when we with her German shepherd dog

OUTLOOK Self-Care: The Secret to Being a Superwoman

TEXT: MIRANDA LIN IMAGE: WEB

omen nowadays have more opportunities in to take care of that they barely have time for themselves. the workplace. But for women with families, Family demands, along with the pressure of work are more it could become a juggling contest to see who than enough to knock her out dog-tired both physically and balances all the demands of life the best. mentally before the day is over. WEven though in the millennial era gender roles have been Usually, the idea of trying to be a superwoman leaves most redefined, many women still assume the role as the main of us super-fatigued. Some become emotionally drained, caregiver in the family. Needs of spouses, needs of children, easily irritated, less motivated, and lose their appetite (or demands of her job (or jobs!), and maybe needs of parents resort to stress eating). Others even become emotionally all tug at her. What about the needs of herself? If you ask detached, forgetful, have difficulty sleeping, and experience women in the workplace, many ladies will tell you "My only a lack of accomplishment. These are signs of burnout, which wish is to have an hour of solitude." or "I just want to be able not only happens in the workplace, but also in the family. to sleep in for a day.” Many women have so many people Burnout is a result of chronic stress to the point of physical

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and mental exhaustion, and can result in a decline in job each of them to a certain category (work, leisure, rest). Some performance and dissatisfactory family relationships. The may find doing house chores productive, while others may danger of burnout is that it does not happen overnight. It refer to them as leisure. Then, draw a pie chart putting items takes a while for us to gradually deplete our physical and in each category together. The pie chart should give you an mental resources. Most alarmingly, some might not even be overall view of where your time went at a glance. It may offer aware of the signs! more clarity on the stress level you are feeling, so possible To prevent burnout, it is crucial to keep an eye on the adjustments can be made. The more unbalanced the pie red flags, so that we may adjust our workload accordingly. chart is, the more stressed we could be feeling. Even if it’s However, other than making one’s load a little lighter, which absolutely impossible to make any adjustments, sometimes is often challenging (or in some cases merely impossible) just knowing where your time went brings an awareness that there’s a secret to surviving the tug of war of family and “No wonder I feel stressed out.” Just being aware of why we work — self-care. are stressed out might lessen the anxiety and stress a little Self-care is an active and intentional way of attending to bit. At least we know what we are dealing with. our own needs in order to maintain our capacity for helping others. It requires self-awareness, intentional planning, CONNECTIONS and active adjustments to fit different lifestyles. Without Humans are social beings. True connection with another intentionally making plans to take care of ourselves, we are human soul helps us fight loneliness, which increases our not able to keep giving our energy and time to our loved health risks and feelings of anxiety and depression in stressed ones. Here are several components to a good self-care plan: times. According to research, social support is a crucial factor in stress reduction. When the demands of life pull us in every SELF-AWARENESS direction, we can send a text or make a short phone call to a Physical and emotional awareness often play a huge role in friend who understands our situation and can offer emotional emotional regulation. Many times, we can feel it in our bodies support. We can join groups on social media with the same if we have certain emotions. Discovering the connection interests or concerns. It creates a sense of connection that between them helps us come up with ways to regulate them. we are not alone, and there are other people out there going When we are able to identify our feelings, we can then through similar things in life. This is key for beating the effects reflect on the thoughts behind those feelings. The feeling of stress, both physically and emotionally. and thought connection greatly helps in resolving negative The stronger our support system is, the more backup we emotions. have when faced with stressful life situations. You might There are several ways to increase self-awareness. Keeping ask yourself the following questions to check if you have a journal is a good way to organize feelings and thoughts. A enough support. Who do you feel comfortable to be with? study by Gortner, Rude, and Pennebaker (2006) found that Who would you go to if you have a problem that requires journaling was associated with significant decreases in worry assistance? Who takes your concerns seriously? Who makes and depression. There is also a form of therapy called journal you feel encouraged and valued? If all your answers point to therapy or writing therapy that can be done individually, or the same person, it’s good you have a diehard supporter, but guided by a mental health professional. Having a few minutes at the same time you might want to reach out to a few others to yourself to focus on your feelings and thoughts is also an to build up your support system. Even though more does not efficient way to increase self-awareness. Talking to a friend necessarily mean better or stronger when it comes to social who can help you identify feelings, along with the thoughts support, quality connections with more than one person behind them, would be a great help, too. If it is too difficult to would offer us several different perspectives. identify how you are feeling physically and emotionally, you When we take care of ourselves well, we have more may want to talk to a professional therapist who will be able capacity to take care of others without burning out. We have to help you increase your awareness level. more emotional stability to tend to the needs of our loved ones and face the challenges at the workplace. We also have BALANCE more physical stamina to withstand the daily mundane tasks We all have 165 hours in a week. How we allocate our we might have to fulfill as a wife, a mom, a grandmother, or a time may shine light onto the perceived stress level we are daughter. It’s never easy to balance the demands of work and feeling. According to research, we should have an ideal, family. Taking care of yourself is the best gift one can give to comfortable balance when work, leisure, and rest each take your loved ones, and the ones working together with you. up approximately one-third of our schedule. Work constitutes things that we find productive or job-related. Leisure refers to References: things that we find fun, relaxing, and refreshing. Rest includes Gortner E, Rude SS, Pennebaker JW. Benefits of expressive the time we use to unwind and sleep, which is vital to stress writing in lowering rumination and depressive symptoms. reduction. Unfortunately, the quality of sleep is usually one Behavior Therapy, 2006; 37(3): 292-303. of the first to be sacrificed when we are stressed. When the three areas are close to reaching a balance, we will feel more comfortable and stress-free. Miranda Lin is a licensed professional counselor Here’s a good exercise to try with this idea. Try to make a in Taiwan and the States. She loves good food, list of all the events that usually happen in a week, along with her faith, and spending quality time with how much time is spent on each event. Subjectively assign family, friends, and herself.

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Newton’s Cradle Inhabiting multiple identities as a foreign woman in Taiwan

TEXT: JENNA LYNN CODY IMAGE: WEB

n the evening of January money. The wife” - not the woman, but These experiences and more caused 16th, 2016, I sat in the the wife - “takes care of the house and me to feel as though I were shuttling arrivals hall at Taoyuan children so he can work hard.” between identities: the optimistic International Airport, “Is that true in every family?” (I knew female expat who was happy with her Owaiting to greet my cousin visiting from quite well that it wasn’t.) new home one day; the determined the US. Election results were tumbling “No, but in most families,” he replied. feminist who raged inwardly at the in - Tsai Ing-wen was Taiwan’s first “Do you agree with that?” I asked. problems that persisted the next. I female president (and the first woman “Yes.” have never bought into the idea that who was not the wife, daughter or “So you think the husband should the differences were due to “culture” sister of a former male leader, to be work to earn money and the wife - Taiwan has a robust local feminist elected to lead an Asian nation). By should stay home?” I parried, knowing movement with roots deep in the the time my cousin walked out, social already that he did. 20th century, and I had personally wit- media was blazing with the news. “Yes.” nessed a number of Taiwanese women Critics tried to attack her for being “Well,” I turned to a female student, fighting against injustice in their own single, for being female, for wearing “What do you think about that?” ways. I find it patronizing to insist pants at her inauguration. None of it “Oh, I don’t know.” (Taiwanese for “I that Taiwan is not capable of working stuck - the Taiwanese people, by and don’t want to talk about it.”) towards women’s equality. large, didn’t entertain such nonsense. “Okay. Well, let’s move on.” From day to day, I might inhabit I could not say the same about the I thought to myself: is this country one identity or the other. Satisfied or country my cousin had just arrived from. really as great a place for women to live dejected, free or furious. Sometimes As we drove back towards Taipei, the as I’d been saying? We had a female I switched between them slowly, taxi radio blaring news of Tsai’s election president and safe streets, and yet plodding through phases like the moon. win, I thought to myself that we were disenfranchising notions about the Other days, I felt like a Newton’s cradle, shuttling my cousin to a city where the role of women in the family persisted. I pinging back and forth within seconds, streets were mostly safe for women at would meet with my business students the change seemingly instantaneous. all hours, from a country where most - often powerful, high-ranking women I would observe students who streets were not. in their respective work-places - and worked in finance frequently attaining I was elated at the chance to show listen to stories of their in-laws blaming high-level positions and a level of my cousin what life in a developed them, not their sons, for the non- respect in ways that seemed quite rare Asian country was like. I wanted him traditional choices they disapproved of. in the US. In one identity, I would cheer to see that most of what Americans I would feel respected at work, only to them on. Ping. often assumed of the continent was realize upon reflection that I was one I would go about my Taipei day with a based in stereotypes that did not apply of the only female instructors on staff. refreshing lack of catcalls, keep my face to Taiwan: that it was dirty, that it was It wasn’t even their fault - the majority unmarked and say openly “why should poor, that it was unsafe, that it was of foreign women in Taiwan are care I wear makeup if I don’t want to? Why irredeemably sexist. None of these, to workers (who are not protected under is my real face not good enough?” - me, described Taipei. the Labor Standards Act) or wives getting hmphs of agreement in reply The next day, as he slept off his jet from Southeast Asia (who suffer high rather than the gentle disapproving lag, I went to work. I was working with rates of abuse and harsh immigration clucks I received when I said the same university students that day; we started laws). Only a small minority of foreign thing working in an American corporate a conversation on work-life balance. professional workers are female. There office. My students with corporate jobs One of the young men piped up: just aren’t that many women for them in Taipei often didn’t wear makeup “In Taiwan, the man has to earn the to hire. either. In that same identity, we shared

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a sense of solidarity. is essentially saying - ‘having babies is build a permanent life here. How can I And yet, I was walking home after more important than your reproductive compare my life as a woman here to my one of those pumped-up sisterhood health.’” Ping. experiences in the US when I am not experiences one day to find a good Three things keep me sane. exactly the same person who left? friend had posted about being harassed First, I have at times reflected on These are the three shining silver orbs on the street in Taipei once again. To my experiences living in other Asian at the center of my Newton’s cradle. I feeling threatened yet again, simply for countries, namely China and India. Alt- might ping back and forth on the edges, existing in public. hough both have a complex history but inside I know this: Taiwan can’t “I’m enrolling in self-defense regarding feminism and the ways in really be compared to anything except classes,” she said. She was done feeling which class and gender intersect, just itself: its past and present, as well as unsafe. as Taiwan does, I have generally found the future we hope for. We can praise Unsafe? In Taipei? Ping. Taiwan to be a better place to live as a its strengths and acknowledge its faults My other identity emerged then - woman than either of them. It is also as women who live here, striving for the enraged one, the same one that one of the only places I have felt I can something better. It does no good to was furious about the treatment of travel without my gender shaping my dismiss it as inferior to the countries care workers and wives from Southeast experience in unwelcome ways. we come from when it has its own Asia. Her experiences on the streets of Second, I have also reflected on my unique history and issues to deal with. Taipei were no less valid than mine, and former life in the United States: for Nor is it necessary to have an eternally challenged everything I thought I knew every story of sexism I hear in Taiwan, sunny outlook on Taiwan, defaulting to about what life was like for foreign I can offer a parallel story from the a positive narrative even when criticism women in this city. country of my birth. It is impossible, is called for. We can acknowledge And yet, I couldn’t deny that I was however, to fully compare the two: that both are true, and both manifest safer here. I really was harassed less there is a difference in simply being at different times, and that there is often. Ping. from there, not here. I experienced nothing inherently wrong with one’s She said she’d never been catcalled life in the US as a white American identity pinging back and forth. or harassed as much in the US as she woman; I experience it in Taiwan as an had in Taiwan. Ping. obvious foreigner - and a white “foreign “Taiwan will almost certainly be professional” one at that. Jenna Lynn Cody is an the first country to legalize marriage Finally, I have reflected on the American who has lived in equality,” I said one day - something ways I’ve grown and changed from Taipei, Taiwan for eleven years that a lot of women’s rights groups had the twenty-something woman who with her husband and two supported and helped fight for. Ping. landed at Taoyuan International Airport cats. In addition to teaching, “Although paid maternity leave is with an oversize backpack and not a she blogs at Lao Ren Cha and is a mandated by the government, a benefit lot of knowledge about Taiwan, to a regular contributor to Ketagalan Media that is not guaranteed in the US, birth thirty-something heading back to that and MyTaiwanTour. She is currently control is not covered by National same airport to pick up my cousin, studying for a Master of Education at Health Insurance. So the government as a long-term resident who seeks to the University of Exeter in the UK. Karen Farley, Entrepreneur KP Kitchen: the Second Year

TEXT & IMAGE: KAREN FARLEY

What does being a business owner lot of satisfaction around developing mean to you? new ways to use our DIY mixes, which Being in business means I make, photograph (another lifelong independence, creativity and learning. hobby) and publish as inspirational It also comes with a lot of hard work recipes on our blog. I also enjoy the and responsibility. Sometimes it’s lonely personal interaction I have with other being the laoban too. bakers – both those just starting out I love being in business and creating and more experienced bakers – which a range of products and a community is why the community aspect of the around something I’m passionate business is important to me. about – baking and cooking. I gain a There are definitely parts of the

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business I don’t enjoy as much, or I’m new connections to help make our of our ability to reach more customers not as experienced at doing. Running a future plans a reality and, of course, and build our community of home business is a lot less glamourous than it great exposure for the business. The bakers/cooks. may seem. There is a lot of routine work benefit has also gone way beyond the that has to happen behind the scenes actual event itself in that we are now What is one thing that you have to make the business appear seamless spending more focused time working learned over the past year(s) that has from the outside. Keeping the books is “on” the business, and not simply “in” served you well? drudgery to me, and usually involves the business, with big plans for 2018 An entrepreneur is never short of a lot of coffee. In the baking business and beyond. ideas, but having too many ideas can there’s plenty of physical work – I’ve be overwhelming. Even if it’s a good developed new arm muscles from lifting What’s the best advice you would like idea, perhaps it’s not a good idea for fifty pound bags of flour and carrying to pass on to readers? the business right now. Before jumping crates of product around the city. • Work on the business, not only in the from one idea to the next, ask yourself And doing business in two languages business: In the beginning it’s easy to whether it fits with the direction your presents its own challenges too. be consumed with maintaining the business is taking right now, and in the At the end of the day, it’s about business at the expense of growing future. If not, delete it. If it’s a good finding a balance between the two it. I’m working on scheduling regular idea in the future, you will think of it sides. Even better to is aim to tip the chunks of time for developing it. again then. scales towards the aspects of business • Plan change in manageable chunks: Also, surround yourself with good I find the most rewarding, and get help With an abundance of ideas and people. where I need it too. plans, it’s easy to have lots of projects sitting at 80% done. I make time each Do you have any new projects coming What or who has been your greatest week and month for finishing off that up, or have you just completed a big influence this past year, and why? last 20% of a project or task, so that project that helped you to reach a In the second year of KP Kitchen the hard work that’s been put in can milestone? Taiwan, I’ve tried to find more of this actually be implemented. There’s always something on the go. balance by focusing on the parts of the • Be prepared to adapt: Whether it be After examining the business late last business that bring joy. I’ve developed listening to a customer’s comments, year, we’re moving towards establishing partnerships with people who have responding to changes in social a wider market place for our DIY mixes. the skills I don’t, such as accounting, media marketing, or reacting to shifts We’re also working on developing translation and more. I’ve systematized in the economic environment, the more online resources focused on the more routine aspects of the flexibility to change is essential in a baking and cooking in small kitchens in business so they are less dependent on small business. Taiwan. Already this year we’ve taken me. And I’ve tried to take more time • Take time to recharge: in the heady a significant step in creating our first to enjoy life outside the business with days of starting a business and “how to…?” video, which has been a personal time with Patrick, as well as beyond it may seem impossible to lot of fun and required a huge learning rekindling some of my other interests maintain any semblance of outside curve. (including travel and being outdoors) life. I plan-in break times, whether that had been put aside. it’s coffee with a friend or a short KP Kitchen Taiwan On a separate note, one of the vacation with my love disconnected biggest influences on the business from it all, as often as possible. Facebook: this year involved stepping outside my www.fb.com/KPKitchenTaiwan comfort zone, both on a personal and a What has been the most effective Instagram: business level. In October, we decided marketing strategy or program you https://instagram.com/kpkitchentaiwan to apply for a spot in the Dragon’s have used to promote your business, Email: [email protected] For recipes, tips and to buy our DIY Chamber – an event for foreign-owned or plan to use to promote your Baking and Spice Mixes: small businesses modelled on the business? www.kpkitchen.tw Dragon’s Den/Shark Tank concept, Social media marketing, networking hosted by the Canadian Chamber of and external events have all played Commerce in Taiwan. a part in spreading the word about This experience really forced us to what we do at KP Kitchen Taiwan. think strategically and critically about Our best marketing asset, and the Karen Farley runs KP Kitchen Taiwan the business in a way that is often most successful by far, is our happy which produces and sells DIY Baking overlooked when one is consumed customers, who share their experiences Mixes throughout Taiwan. As a serial with its day-to-day running. We were baking and cooking KP Kitchen Taiwan, entrepreneur and serial expat, Karen selected as one of the five teams that whether using our DIY mixes at home, grabs adventures in business and took part in the event on November or joining us for special events in our life with both hands. When she’s not 19th. Taking this step has been cozy kitchen, with their family, friends baking, Karen can be found dreaming invaluable in terms of getting tough and colleagues. Word-of-mouth of her next travel destination. Karen can feedback from the Dragons, making marketing has been an essential part be contacted at [email protected].

34 MARCH 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

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RICHARD SAUNDERS EXPLORES TAIWAN'S LESS-TRODDEN PATHS

Taiwan’s Historic Chastity Arches TEXT & IMAGES: RICHARD SAUNDERS

tribute to a lady who lived a widow’s life for 46 years following the early death of her husband. Jigonghaoyi Arch (急公好義坊), just south of the park amphitheater, was erected in 1887, and, unusually, commemorates the charity of a businessman who donated money to build an exam hall to accommodate students taking government exams in Taipei, thus saving them a long journey down to Tainan. It used to stand in nearby Hengyang Road (then called “stone arch street”). The third arch, the Zhou Family Widow’s Memorial (周氏節孝坊), stands close to Beitou MRT station, and was erected in 1861 to commemorate the chastity of a lady called Zhou Juan t first glance, Taiwan’s historic and admirers of dusty old temples, (who died 15 years before the arch relics seem rather humble in private residences, forts, academic was built) after the early death of comparison with the island’s institutions and whatnot will find plenty her husband. To get there walk out magnificent natural beauty to enjoy in the old towns of Lukang, of Beitou MRT station and follow the Aand its extraordinary cultural richness. Tainan, on the island of , and path underneath the elevated tracks It’s a sad fact that much of Taiwan’s also (to a lesser extent) in Changhua north (away from Taipei), branching history has been lost for good owing to and Hsinchu cities. Taipei is also right along the branch line towards a lack of money in the past to preserve remarkably rich in fine old buildings, Xinbeitou. The arch is a few meters many old and crumbling structures, especially from the Japanese colonial down a road on the right about 200 combined with an unfortunate era. Among the other eight categories meters from the MRT station, and is eagerness to tear down historic houses featuring on the list however are some signposted (in English). to make room for more modern curiosity-arousing listings, including one structures, or rebuild precious old listed as as “memorial arches.” temples simply to make them bigger Today about twenty of these fine and grander. Thankfully though, the structures remain on Taiwan and the Taiwanese authorities are generally far outlying island of Kinmen, including better these days at looking after the no less than three in Taipei city. Two island’s remaining historic relics, and, now stand in 228 Peace Park, after although Taiwan has little that’s likely they were moved from their original to quicken the pulse of the average positions during the Japanese colonial European historian, there’s a great era when the city’s streets were deal of pleasure and fascination to be widened. The Huang Family Widow’s found by exploring the island’s heritage Memorial (黃氏節孝坊), which once structures. stood in today’s Ketagalan Boulevard Taiwan’s lawmakers classified the but is now near the north entrance of island’s heritage into twelve categories, the park, dates from 1882, and pays

Richard Saunders is a trained classical musician and writer who has lived in Taipei since 1993. He has written several books (available at the Center and in bookshops around Taipei), including Yangmingshan: the Guide (a complete guide to the National Park on Taipei’s doorstep), Taipei Escapes I and 2, which together detail sixty day trips and hikes within easy reach of Taipei city, and The Islands of Taiwan, a guide to Taiwan’s offshore islands. His latest book, Taiwan 101: Essential Hikes, Sights and Experiences around Ilha Formosa, is out now.

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March 2018_p3-end.indd 35 2018/2/20 下午11:01 FOOD & DRINK YONGHE DOU JIANG DA WANG (Yong He Soy Milk King)

Perfectly hot and crispy youtiou, soft on the inside. At some places, they feel a bit stale, but here, it tastes like it just came from a vat of bubbling oil. Even after it's cooled, it still retains a satisfying crunch. You know that everything is fresh, as there is a mini-army of hands rolling out dough and cutting out strips to make TEXT: JOAN H, HUNGRYINTAIPEI f you're visiting Taipei, you must try delicious snacks such as soubing. And IMAGES: HUNGRYINTAIPEI the Chinese breakfast experience you seriously cannot beat the prices at least once, and I'd definitely - you can feed two people for about recommend that you try it here. I've NT$100, or gorge yourself for less than Ibeen slow to try out Yonghe Dou Jiang the price of a McBreakfast. You also Da Wang (despite hearing raves about have the option to mix and match items it for awhile) thinking all Yonghe Dou to your stomach's desire. Put egg, pork Jiangs would be about the same. But I floss or a sticky rice roll in the soubing, was wrong. It is definitely the "King," or put youtiao, sticky rice roll or pork like its name. floss in a danbing. You can even put And what makes it better than the fried turnip cake in an egg, or egg in a rest? mantou. Joan created Hungry in Taipei in 2005 when she moved to Taiwan from California and couldn't find much information online about restaurants in English. She has since blogged about over six hundred Taipei restaurants, found places to fulfill her Mexican, cupcake, BBQ and pho cravings. She has explored Taipei's night markets, shaved ice, dumplings and fine-dining scene extensively. Hungry in Taipei has been mentioned by BuzzFeed, CNN Travel, NY Post, Lonely Planet Taiwan, Taipei Times, Bizarre Foods and the Culinary Institute of America. http:// hungryintaipei.blogspot.tw/

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youtiao (NT$15) and a salty soy soy, vinegar, and chili sauces available, milk (NT$25) which is more like a and enjoy the immediate satisfaction of breakfast tofu stew with chunks of soft, eating the youtiao hot. coagulated soy milk, with bits of dried The space looks and feels like it's baby shrimp, pickled vegetables and been there forever, but it's clean and a diced youtiao, which give it a wonderful place to eat and go. milky, salty flavor. The portion was quite huge and I was Yong He Dou Jiang Da Wang too full to eat lunch after finishing the 102 Fuxing South Road, Section 2 bowl, so I'm sure it's enough to share. (02) 2703-5051 The mini shrimp with miniature black (復興南路二段102號 ) eyes freaked me out a little bit, but I Hours: 24 hours/7 days a week tried to enjoy it as it was meant to be. But if you're the type to avoid eyes in your breakfast, then I'm sure you can ask that they leave it out. Other items on the Chinese-only Salty soy milk isn't for everyone - menu include handmade xiao longbao the appearance and texture can be or steamed dumplings, and sticky rice unappetizing to the uninitiated. I only roll (fantuan). first tried it last year. First timers should On my first visit, I got a trio of items: try the sweet cold soy milk instead. If a soubing youtiao, which is like a you like it less sweet, you can get warm carbilicious breakfast sandwich - an or hot soy milk. airy and flaky flatbread enveloping a I found that the youtiao seem more crispy fried chinese cruller (NT$30), a lithe than the ones from other places, danbing (NT$20; a scrambled egg in a but they get the right combination of thin crepe-like wrapper), and a warm crispy and soft. soy milk (NT$20) or doujiang. I got my items to go, but if you eat On my second visit, I got just a there, be sure to take advantage of the

Celebrating Women in Taipei 2018 Sunday, March 11 at 12 PM – 10 PM

In the Flesh : Glow Your Mind / 思維熠熠而響 Saturday, March 31 at 12 PM – 10 PM

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#14 Tienmu E. Road | Telephone 2871-1515 | [email protected]

38 MARCH 2018 www.communitycenter.org.tw

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