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Contents

List of Maps vi

What’s New in 1

1 The Best of Toronto 3 1 Frommer’s Favorite Toronto 3 Best Dining Bets ...... 8 Experiences ...... 3 The Best of Toronto Online . . . .10 2 Best Hotel Bets ...... 7

2 Planning Your Trip to Toronto 12 1 Visitor Information ...... 12 The SARS Story ...... 26 2 Entry Requirements & 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .26 Customs ...... 13 Wedded Bliss for Gay & 3 Money ...... 15 Lesbian Couples ...... 29 The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. 8 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 29 Dollar & the British Pound . . . . .16 Frommers.com: The Complete What Things Cost Travel Resource ...... 31 in Toronto ...... 17 9 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 31 4 When to Go ...... 18 Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 33 Toronto Calendar of Events . . . .19 10 Getting There ...... 34 Jump Up! ...... 24 11 Packages for the Independent 5 Travel Insurance ...... 24 Traveler ...... 38 6 Health ...... 25 12 Recommended Reading ...... 39

3 Getting to Know Toronto 40 1 Orientation ...... 40 2 Getting Around ...... 47 Underground Toronto ...... 44 Fast Facts: Toronto ...... 50 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .44

4 COPYRIGHTEDWhere to Stay MATERIAL 55 1 Downtown West ...... 56 4 Uptown ...... 72 2 Downtown East ...... 64 5 The East End ...... 73 Family-Friendly Hotels ...... 66 6 At the Airport ...... 73 3 Midtown West ...... 68 02_575309 ftoc.qxd 11/16/04 11:25 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

5 Where to Dine 76 1 Restaurants by Cuisine ...... 77 5 The East End ...... 108 2 Downtown West ...... 85 Sleepless in Toronto: What Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .94 to Do When the Midnight Munchies Attack ...... 110 3 Downtown East ...... 97 6 Uptown ...... 111 Savory Surfing ...... 99 Vegetarian Delights ...... 114 4 Midtown West ...... 101 7 North of the City ...... 116 Great Greasy Spoons ...... 108

6 What to See & Do 118

Suggested Itineraries ...... 118 5 Historic Buildings ...... 141 1 The Top Attractions ...... 119 6 For Sports Fans ...... 143 Great Toronto Vistas ...... 127 7 Markets ...... 144 Where to Eat When 8 Parks, Gardens & You’re Going to ...... 132 Cemeteries ...... 145 2 More Museums ...... 133 9 Especially for Kids ...... 146 Pssst . . . Want in 10 Organized Tours ...... 148 on a Secret? ...... 133 11 Outdoor Activities ...... 150 3 Exploring the Spas & the City ...... 152 Neighborhoods ...... 135 12 Spectator Sports ...... 155 4 Architectural Highlights ...... 137

7 City Strolls 157 Walking Tour 1: Walking Tour 3: University & ...... 157 of Toronto ...... 164 Walking Tour 2: Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence Harbourfront ...... 162 & Downtown East ...... 169

8 Shopping 174 1 The Shopping Scene ...... 174 The Best Bargains ...... 184 2 Great Shopping Areas ...... 174 Same Time Next Year ...... 195 3 Shopping A to Z ...... 175

9 Toronto After Dark 200 1 The Performing Arts ...... 200 4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . . . . .218 2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .210 5 Cinemas & Movie Houses . . . .219 3 The Bar Scene ...... 214 Sweet Treats: Toronto’s Cueing Up ...... 215 Dessert Cafes ...... 220 Hotel Bars ...... 217 6 Coffeehouses ...... 220 02_575309 ftoc.qxd 11/16/04 11:25 PM Page v

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10 Side Trips from Toronto 222

1 Stratford ...... 222 Niagara Parkway Commission 2 Niagara-on-the-Lake Restaurants ...... 244 & Niagara Falls ...... 231 3 The Muskoka Lakes ...... 244 Touring Niagara-on-the-Lake The Rocky Road for Golfers . . .250 Wineries ...... 234 Rest, Relax, Recharge ...... 252 A Family Adventure ...... 242 4 Hamilton ...... 252

Appendix: Toronto in Depth 257 1 History 101 ...... 257 2 Toronto Today ...... 265 Dateline ...... 257

Index 266 General Index ...... 266 Restaurant Index ...... 276 Accommodations Index ...... 275 02_575309 ftoc.qxd 11/16/04 11:25 PM Page vi

List of Maps

Metropolitan Toronto 4 Walking Tour: Harbourfront 164 Underground Toronto 42 Walking Tour: University of The TTC Subway System 49 Toronto 167 Where to Stay in Downtown Walking Tour: St. Lawrence & West 57 Downtown East 171 Where to Stay in Downtown Midtown Shopping: Bloor/ East 65 Yorkville 177 Where to Stay in Midtown & Downtown Shopping: Uptown 70 West & West Queen West 178 Where to Dine in Downtown 78 Downtown After Dark 202 Where to Dine in Midtown After Dark from Chinatown West & Uptown 80 to Bloor Street 205 Where to Dine from Chinatown Side Trips from Toronto 223 to Bloor Street 83 Stratford 225 What to See & Do in Niagara-on-the-Lake 233 Downtown 120 Niagara Falls 243 What to See & Do in The Muskoka Lakes Region 245 Midtown 122 Hamilton 253 Walking Tour: Chinatown & Kensington Market 159