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YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® WELCOME TO ® whereMAGAZINE Turin Turin February 2020 www.whereitalia.com/turin Dear Visitor, Welcome to Turin! PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE INSIDER TIPS Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. 12 the guide Our country has been a world tourism destination T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 for more than 500 years, even before the word [email protected] www.whereitalia.com/turin ‘tourism’ was coined in the XIX century. Now that 22 SHOPPING more than one billion tourists travel throughout PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF At Tonatto you can find the world annually, Italy is the fifth most visited Andrea Jarach home fragrances and ([email protected]) perfumes, or create the Andrea Jarach country in the world with 58.3 million tourists. scent that best reflects Publisher And it’s not a coincidence. MANAGING EDITOR Where® Alessandra Finzi your personality. If you’re here on a pleasure trip, you already know ([email protected])

BRENTATORE 30 DINING CORSO why Italy has such enormous appeal. If, on the CONTRIBUTORS CORSO TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO The reasons for pizzeria other hand, you’re here for business, look around and let Where® be Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana VI A PAG ANE LLI Berberè Parrocchia Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI Berberè’s success include CORSO GIULIO CESARE di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, ANZ OL A I V your guide. You can use our magazine as a manual to discover and S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, living sourdough, organic S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O the country’s most unique aspects. Whether it’s a question of Chiara Zaccarelli STRADA DI DRUENDO Yann Tiersen seasonal ingredients, 500 m HOT DATESV I A V E R O N E S E 8 history, beautiful landscapes, the number of different experiences VIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I BERGERA VENAR easily digestible dough, V ICONOGRAPHY SIGHTSEEING IA A NDREA SANSOV IA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O available, the food, or the warm, friendly people, remember that the Archivio Proedi Media, 40 & MUSEUMSVIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E and a convivial concept. REBAUDENGO

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VIA LEINI VIA CERVINO VIA ALESSANDRO CRUTO A B O L O G N C M I I RELLA BARRIERA V CORSO VENEZIA Teatro Monterosa Centro Piero cuisine and marvelousA VIA BALTEA Cristina Garbini ([email protected]) D O R A R I P A R I A VIA SOAN A VIA ERRICO PETRELLA PIAZZALE R O S A della Francesca PIAZZA DELLA LUNGO DORA Stazione Torino Dora GTT VIA GIOVANNI PAISIELLO VIA MADDALENE HOT DATES V I A P COVER 8 CORSO VERCELLI VIA ALESSANDRO SCARLAT TI AUGUSTO CROCE DI MILANO O REGIO PARCO PIAZZA ROSTAGNI ROSSA A Z Z E N A I P A I V SUPPLEMENTO DI WHERE® GENERALE RS Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp landscapes.ANTONIO C O R S O V I G E V ADiscover N O the Giardini del The snowy peaks LLA CO E VIA PIETRO COSSA BALDISSERA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA Parrocchia O C I G N A VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 This month’s round-up of art Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene THE REGGE SABAUDE A NV I T O CON ECI C H I RSO GIULIO CESARE 18 C O UROS M A BRI C O R S O V I G E V A N O PIAZZA Della Pace of the . CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI CEC FRANCESCO C O R S O U M B R I A O VIA ERRICO PETR CRISPI CO EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 © COLOMBO NICOLA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM areas of the , VIA SANTHIA’ SASC V AI D O VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE T B O Piscina scolastica comunale E8 I A F R A N PIAZZA SA DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH V VIA exhibitions, music and local Some of the best examples SSINA GIOVANNI N E IA PIOS M CORSO POTENZA V BOTTESINI VIA D O R A R I P A R I A E N VENO V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia IA NTE RO I C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A S O C O and Monferrato. O

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E PILONETTO AZZIO S T R . D E L P O R T O N E V I A G E N O V A A S U C A R I S O S R O C VIA

V I A T U N I S I VIA NIZZA L L

VIA GORIZIA I VIA ST ELLONE H

VIA THONON C A V I A F I L A D E L F I A

CORSO SPEZIA O

C O R S O C O S E N Z A VIA TRIPOLI VIA VARAZZE S C O R S O E . T A Z Z O L I R

V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Spezia O C CORSO SPEZIA V IA S A N M A R IN O

VIA BRONI

CORSO VIA C.MARTINOTTI CORSO SPEZIA VIA VARAITA

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO MONCALIERI CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICAV I A M O N T E V I D E O PIAZZA

VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA e VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO PROSPERO RICHELMY

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE

NITÀ D'ITALIA NIZZA U

C O R S O T R A IA N O R S O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CO Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi [ SIGHTSEEING]

MORE AT PAGE 40 Top in town MAP PAGES 46-47 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 4 7 13 5 wealth of the city. Reconverted by in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum LUCA SANTILLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © © © © of Cinema. 11

151 15 14 ALLIANZ Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant- garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by . One of the most picturesque ways of CKTRAVELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VINCENZO DE BERNARDO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which © © © rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

REGGIA DI MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in -style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to , who took up residence here in 1600. magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to . Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower remains of its original 18th century decorations absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its is spectacular. 4 and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie . Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Founded in 1824, Turin’s is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke the 20th century, Queen the second in terms of the value and quality of Mollino, the only part of the original building Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named LINGOTTO Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT UNESCO world heritage site. 15

4 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 5 WHERE NOW | LANDMARK The Torinese templeofcars − − − − together the initial collection of cars, chassis and engines. engines. and chassis cars, of collection initial the together Biscaretti’sRoberto son Carlo who conceived and put in 1960. opened and , di Biscaretti Roberto and Gatti Goria Cesare pioneers motoring Italian two by of idea an on Po, based the of bank 1932 in left the on established of of vintage and dream cars of world the through journey educational and entertaining an on visitors takes "Avv. Agnelli" Giovanni dell’Automobile François Confino designer set by layouts and installations by enhanced and Cino Zucchi 2011. architect by curated was project The important renovation project Italian car design

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© ANDREA GUERMANI WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-TURIN

FEBRUARY HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

PHOTOGRAPHY

NEWTON AND THE 30 3 PROVOCATION JANUARY MAY OF IMAGES ◄ For this exhibition, Matthias Harder, curator of the Helmut Newton Foundation in Berlin, worked on the immense archive of the famous master of photography, finally selecting 68 images that represent a perfect overview of Newton’s long career. The exhibition opens with an iconic portrait of Andy Warhol created in 1974 for Vogue Uomo and ends with a portrait of Leni Riefenstahl taken in the year 2000. In addition to the above, the show features numerous other famous, powerful

and innovative photographs, plus portraits of other celebrities including Paloma Picasso (1983), Catherine Deneuve (1976), Anita Ekberg (1988) and Claudia Schiffer (1992).

Helmut Newton. Works GAM Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea. Via Magenta, 31 www.gamtorino.it RUSHMORE, ITALIAN VOGUE - 1982 RUSHMORE, ITALIAN © HELMUT NEWTON FOUNDATION, BERLIN © HELMUT NEWTON FOUNDATION,

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LAST DAYS LAST DAYS EXHIBITION

THE TWILIGHT OF A RENAISSANCE MASTER CLASSICAL JAPAN ◄ Andrea Mantegna (1431-1506), one of ◄ An exhibition featuring the the greatest artists of the , 19 16 works of Katsushika Hokusai 12 4 is the star of this fabulous exhibition, that’s OCTOBER FEBRUARY (1760-1849) and Utagawa DECEMBER MAY currently showing in the monumental rooms 2019 2020 2019 2020 Hiroshige (1797-1858), of Palazzo Madama. The exhibition features two renowned 18th century masters of the ‘Fluctuating World’, more than 100 works, brought together thanks to prestigious international showcased alongside the modern prints of Kawase Hasui (1883- loans, and also includes masterpieces by several of the major protagonists of the 1957) who developed the themes and techniques of polychrome Renaissance with whom Mantegna interacted, including Donatello, Antonello da xylographs. A journey into the most evocative places of Japan, , Pisanello, Paolo Uccello, Giovanni Bellini, Cosmè Tura, Ercole de’ Roberti both real and imaginary, that tells the story of the artistic world of and Correggio. In addition to paintings, drawings and prints, the exhibition a country which evolved radically between the end of the features a display of sculptures, medals, autographed letters and precious 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. ancient printed books as well as illuminated manuscripts. The exhibition itinerary is preceded by spectacular multimedia screenings in Palazzo Madama’s Medieval Kanbara: Night Snow (Kanbara, yoru no yuki), second state, from the series Fifty-three Stations of the Tôkaidô Road Hokusai, Hiroshige, Hasui. Journey through a changing Japan (Tôkaidô gojûsan tsugi no uchi), also known as the First Tôkaidô or Great Tôkaidô - Utagawa Hiroshige I (Japanese, Courtyard. 1797–1858) - Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. William Sturgis Bigelow Collection Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli, Lingotto. Via Nizza, 230/103 Photograph © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston 2 www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it Andrea Mantegna. Making Antiquity Modern Palazzo Madama. Piazza Castello www.palazzomadamatorino.it Andrea Mantegna - Madonna con Bambino e Santi e Gerolamo - Madonna con Andrea Mantegna Musée Jacquemart-André 1453-1454 - Paris, di Tolosa Ludovico

CINEMA ICON 14 15 FEBRUARY JUNE MADE IN ITALY IN HOLLYWOOD ◄ Cinema, art and fashion. The exhibition at the Mole Antonelliana celebrates the extraordinary ’s Annamode Costume House, renowned © NICKOLAS MURAY PHOTO ARCHIVES © NICKOLAS MURAY for the creation of stunning costumes for blockbuster productions. An interactive, FRIDA: THE Alena Baeva immersive exhibition featuring 100 WOMAN, ARTIST costumes designed for 40 films, in AND LOVER CLASSICALFAIR MUSIC which each garment is displayed like 1 3 OUT OF TOWN FEBRUARY MAY ▲ An emotional journey THE APPEAL OF THE a work of art. Highlights includes through the life of THE BATTLE costumes from films like La Dolce Vita, renowned icon Frida Kahlo. A unique exhibition that ROMANTIC VIOLIN King Vidor’s War and Peace (1956), explores the woman – renowned for her strength, Over the past twenty five years, the Lingotto OF ORANGES ▲ Vittorio De Sica’s Marriage Italian courage, talent and love – rather than the artist. 4 Music Association has made Turin one of ▲ The historic Carnival of is Style (1964), Guy Ritchie’s King Mexico’s most prolific, well-known and dearly-loveed FEBRUARY the European capitals of symphony music. 9 renowned for the fierce, three-day 26 Arthur (2017), Sofia Coppola’sMarie FEBRUARY artist is revealed through the lens of Nickolas Muray, Leading names featured on the program for the 2019-2020 "Battle of the Oranges", a reenactment Antoinette (2006), plus costumes her friend and lover. The exhibition features the season include the Malmö Symphony Orchestra conducted of the medieval revolt of the people of Ivrea against the city’s tyrant. for TV series The Witcher. complete collection of 60 photos taken by Muray, by Maestro Robert Trevino, who will perform Johannes Brahms’ For three days, every February, the citizens of Ivrea gather into nine including the iconic "Frida Kahlo on White Bench", plus Violin Concerto in D major, featuring charismatic and talented teams, grouped by geographical districts. In addition to the above, the Cinemaddosso. From reproductions of the things that Frida loved best: her violinist Alena Baeva, and Ludwig van Beethoven’s Symphony Carnival offers a long, action-packed calendar of events including Cinecittà to Hollywood the famous bed, her Mexican outfits and her jewelry. no. 7 in A major. the presentation of the beautiful ‘Mugnaia’ (the miller’s daughter), the costumes of Annamode symbol of Carnival, a historic pageant, a grand ball, a fireworks display Museo Nazionale del FRIDA KAHLO through the lens of Nickolas Muray Concerti del Lingotto on the Lungo Dora, plus unmissable tastings of local specialties. Cinema di Torino. Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi. Malmö Symphony Orchestra | Alena Baeva Via Montebello, 20 Piazza Principe Amedeo 7 – Stupinigi (TO) Auditorium "Giovanni Agnelli". Via Nizza, 280 Storico Carnevale di Ivrea 2020 www.museocinema.it www.fridatorino.it, www.ordinemauriziano.it/frieda-kahlo www.lingottomusica.it Main squares across the city of Ivrea. www.storicocarnevaleivrea.it www.annamodecostumes.com

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paradiseThis month is the perfect time to discover the alpine resorts that have made Piedmont one of Italy’s most attractive destinations. BY GIULIA MINERO

Via Lattea - Monte Fraiteve Sestriere © RINOGAS

ome of the highest peaks in Europe, ski area in western Italy that extends from as the ‘Olympic Valleys’, became one of the Via Lattea - Monte Fraiteve snow, unspoilt landscapes and Sauze d’ (Salice d’Ulzio in Italian) to the most sought-after tourist destinations in the Sbreathtaking views. A combination French town of Montgenèvre. This includes world, renowned for its offer of entertainment that makes Piedmont the perfect region for the towns of Sestriere, San Sicario, Clavière, and activities. a winter holiday. This doesn’t just apply to and , as far as the So how do you choose where to spend the Turin, where in between a cultural break or neighbouring French border. weekend? It’s simple, and based on the motto a moment’s shopping you can indulge in a A favourite hangout of the Torinese for a ‘tell me what sport you love and I’ll tell you rejuvenating break with a cup of hot chocolate, weekend dedicated to sport and relaxation, which destination best suits your needs’. This is but also the string of ski villages located only a charming out-of-town destination for tourists a detail that should not be underestimated by a two-hour drive from the city. As the name who want to spend a few days in the open those who are paralyzed by choice. Multi-resort of the region suggests (‘Piedmont’, ‘at the air either before or after visiting Turin, and a or season ski passes allow you to move freely foot of the mountains’), the area’s allure and paradise for winter sports, this must-visit from one resort in the area to another without winter attractions are inextricably linked to its area offers world-class facilities. These include paying additional fees (www.vialattea.it). mountains. more than 400km of slopes dedicated These include Pragelato, where two dedicated to the most diverse sports including Alpine slopes allow people of all ages and ability THE ‘VIA LATTEA’, skiing, freestyle skiing, Skeleton, Nordic skiing, levels to indulge in sleighing and Bobsleighing, A PARADISE OF WINTER SPORTS Bobsleigh, sleighing and Biathlon. However, the semi-flat areas like in Clavière, where you can When visiting Piedmont, you can’t think about turning point came when the city played host try your hand at cross-country skiing or its mountains without immediately reflecting to the . As a result of the snowshoeing, valleys boasting the area’s GIANCARLO GABBRIELLI on the ‘Via Lattea’ (or ‘Milky Way’), the largest winter games, this area of the Alps, now known steepest ski slopes – from Cesana, located at © Lago Fiorenza 12 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 13 WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS INSIDER TIPS | WHERE NOW

example is the Hotel La Torre in Sauze d’Oulx, served in a welcoming stone and wood setting JUST A LITTLE FURTHER ON... which offers outside guests the option of (www.chaletilcapricorno.it). In ski resorts, a Winter sports enthusiasts who have a few accessing its Spa area, where they can enjoy cocktail, known as an ‘après ski’, is a great way days to spare and are keen to explore the area massages and ad hoc treatments (www. to relax and toast your day on the pistes. A outside the surroundings of Turin should head grandhotellatorre.it). favourite haunt of locals and visitors in search to the border between Piedmont and the of a relaxing break after a long day’s skiing is Valle d’Aosta, in the spectacular Alpine CHALET DE CHARME, Chalet Raggio di Sole. Located in the area setting of the Parco del Gran Paradiso. FOR LOVERS OF TASTE of Sestriere’s amphitheatre, it’s a great place to This protected area is an ideal destination for Thanks to its stunning scenery, exquisite enjoy a platter of charcuterie and local cheeses nature lovers, offering an enormous variety cuisine and burgeoning cultural scene, it is accompanied by a good glass of wine (official of plants, flowers and mountain fauna. Here, not surprising that the region of Piedmont Facebook: @raggiodi.solesestriere). Always Alpine Ibex, roe deer and marmots wander was named one of the Italian regions in Sestriere, Last Tango Grill Restaurant, around undisturbed, allowing visitors to view best-loved by international visitors in one of the town’s oldest restaurants, delights them close-up, while walking through the 2018 by ‘Lonely Planet’, one of the world’s diners’ palates both at lunch and dinner with park or climbing its rock faces. Other options biggest guide book publishers. One of the a selection of Alpine specialties, including also include a visit to the elegant town of reasons for its success is its wealth of local cured wild game like Deer Bresaola, Lamb Courmayeur, in the region of Valle d’Aosta. gastronomic offerings, a great way to recharge Speck, Goose salami, Wild Boar Ham with This is a favourite destination for winter sports, your batteries between one downhill run Caramelized Onions or traditional hot dishes, luxury shopping, top-notch cuisine, and the and another, or as an ‘après ski’ treat at the that can be savoured in the locale’s warm, cozy nearby Pré-Saint-Didier Spa and wellness end of the day. Lovers of good food in search surroundings enhanced by an indoor fireplace centre (www.qcterme.com/pre-saint-didier). of a break – or even a few days’ retreat – in a (www.lasttango.it). The area was recently enhanced by several charming location at the edge of a wood that Les Icles is an intimate family-run restaurant, new facilities, including the amazing Skyway can only be accessed on skis or a snowmobile located in Cesana Torinese, which offers diners Monte Bianco cable car, a feat of Italian will find what they’re looking for at Chalet hearty home-cooked cuisine comprising engineering that enables visitors to ascend to Il Capricorno. This 4-star hotel resembling freshly sourced seasonal vegetables, Piedmont the Helbronner Peak (3,466 m), a breathtaking a mountain chalet, directly overlooking the Fassona beef dishes, and homemade pasta and spot located on the summit of , slopes of Sauze d’Oulx, has only eight rooms, desserts made with organic flour. An absolute whose panoramic terrace offers visitors a and a gourmet menu featuring a combination must for foodies in search of authentic old- spectacular 360-degree view of the surrounding Skyway Monte Bianco

© GEPPO COURMAYEUR of local flavours and seasonal ingredients, world Piedmontese flavours (www.lesicles.it). Alps (www.montebianco.com).

an altitude of 1,350 meters, to Cima Motta in Sestriere (2,800 meters). The latter are a delight for expert skiers and snowboarders in search of an adrenaline-filled experience. The area’s gentle slopes also make it an ideal destination for those who have decided to embark on their snow christening. Each resort offers top-notch schools specializing in skiing, snowboarding, sleighing, bobsleighing and freestyle lessons with qualified instructors and confidence- boosting slopes offering beginners a safe, gentle introduction to snow sports. When it comes to a great ski weekend, having the right gear is key. If you don’t have your own equipment, you can either purchase it from one of the numerous sports shops lining the main streets of each town, or hire it on-site for one or two days. There’s also good news for ice-skating enthusiasts. In the shadow of the high towers dominating the skyline of Sestriere, developed in the 1930s by FIAT founder as a holiday resort for FIAT’s factory workers, you can skate from dawn till dusk at the Emanuele Nasi Ice Stadium (T: 0122 755444). After an active day on the slopes, indulge in a moment’s relaxation at one of the local Spas. Almost all hotels have jacuzzis, indoor swimming pools, saunas and Turkish baths that combine the beneficial effects of hydrotherapy

Chalet Il Capricorno © RINOGAS with a relaxing Alpine ambience. One such

14 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

VANNI ▶ The "Sparks" collection of sunglasses boasts a All the magic of Turin beautifully feminine line featuring a sought-after GIFT sparkling effect, rendered even more unique by the application of original Swarovski® crystals. In addition to this cat-eye shape with accentuated tips, the collection includes GUIDE a large square rectangular version and an elongated butterfly shape. vanniocchiali.com PAOLO GALLO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PAOLO © We’ve compiled a short guide offering ideas for

him and her. ◄ DAMIANI A great opportunity to The solitaire, a ring with a single diamond, is one spend some pleasant of the most powerful expressions of the Maison’s jewelry-making tradition. This model is crafted in moments browsing the white gold with a single central diamond and a boutiques in the centre full pavé of diamonds encrusted on the shank and of Turin, while enjoying the around the setting. www.damiani.com discreet, elegant charm of the Piedmontese capital.

GIORGIO ARMANI ▶ Full-shell ski helmet with visor. returns to the slopes with the celebrated ‘Neve’ collection. A perfect blend of the According to legend, and brand’s unmatched elegance and together with and , sporting spirit, an indispensable factor for accessories dedicated to Turin is part of a triangle of active enjoyment. www.armani.com white magic, and of black magic with London and San Francisco. ‘ of darkness’, and allows you to immerse SHOPS AND BOOKSHOPS DEDICATED TO ESOTERICISM As a result, it finds itself in the yourself in the darker side of this city of two souls (www.getyourguide.it). > Esotericamente offers a wide assortment midst of an ongoing struggle The Torino Magica® Tour also takes you of ritualistic objects, talismans, tarot cards along a fascinating route amongst sinister and cards from all over the world, incense, CHANEL between positive and negative ▲ ◄ BRUNELLO CUCINELLI architecture, esoteric symbols, dragons and crystals and everything required for forces and, according to experts, The "Les 4 Ombres" eyeshadow palette Refined contrasts and precious alchemic caves. The tour ends with a sighting of ritualistic practices. The bookstore is large features a soft texture and easy application materials enrich the sporty style is crisscrossed by powerful a veiled woman holding the chalice of the Holy and well-stocked. www.esotericamente.it to achieve maximum colour that is of these sneakers. The ultra-soft force fields. (C.Z.) Grail (see photo). This statue, which stands in consistent and luminous. The shades, > Arethusa. At Italy’s oldest occult texture of wool felt is combined front of the Church of Gran Madre di Dio, shows bookshop, established in 1948, you can find contained in a practical case, come in a with profiles in washed suede urin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. the woman holding a chalice in her left hand, a comprehensive selection of publications variety of effects: matte, satiny, iridescent or and details in semi-shiny calfskin. Its ‘magical’ significance is attributed to a symbol that represents the presence of the dedicated to spiritual, mysterious or esoteric metallic. www.chanel.com www.brunellocucinelli.com T its geographical position, along the 45th Holy Grail in Turin (somewhere.it – subjects, plus a wide range of tarot cards, parallel, where the Po and Dora rivers meet. www.musement.com). pendulums, crystal balls, Tibetan Mala, More importantly, it creates the vertices of two A slightly different take on the subject is the runes and incense. arethusalibreria.com triangles, a triangle of white magic and a triangle Torino Noir tour. This evening walking tour ▲ CALVIN KLEIN of black magic. It would appear that numerous allows you to delve into the darker side of > Libreria Editrice Psiche publishes Designed with comfort and points of the Piedmont capital, highlighted by the city by visiting the ancient Church of the and sells works related to medicine, style in mind, this women’s esoteric and Masonic symbols, are crisscrossed Misericordia, and the underground prisons of naturopathy, psychology, spirituality, water-repellent windbreaker ◄ ST ORIGAMI by mysterious force fields. the oldest court in the city, led by a guide who sophism, Buddhism, Taoism and is made with mixed techno A real “work of art”, this reproduction of This is why the city offers tourists numerous will enthrall you with stories about criminals, the numerology at its namesake bookstore. fabrics. Available in two colours: the Mole Antonelliana has been created to tours to discover these places. These include plague and the sinister practices of witchcraft Meetings, courses and themed seminars high risk red and night sky. decorate greeting cards. A technique that Torino Occulta, a tour dedicated to black magic that took place in the Quadrilatero Romano are also organized here. www.calvinklein.it combines the ancient art of origami with and the occult arts. The two and a half hour tour (www.getyourguide.it). All tours are available in www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info the vibrancy of a pop-up movement. starts from Piazza Statuto, considered the city’s English, or other foreign languages on request. www.storigami.it

16 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Regge Sabaude

In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily the era, including Amedeo di , Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for accessible by bus or car from Turin, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo long hunting expeditions in the company of T and are among some of the best- Juvarra, who designed many of its most members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi preserved examples of 17th and 18th beautiful and widely photographed spaces, was often chosen by members of the century European architecture. They are a including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Savoy household for celebrations and living testimony to the prestige of the local Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century dynastic weddings. monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia the headquarters of the Furniture of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct Museum, and a space for events fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge the history of court life, while the apartments and concerts. Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and In addition to its original furnishings and © Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged lodges and country residences, embellished adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as with gardens that reflect the sophistication of public viewing, as is the room hosting the The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal courtly life. collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are the , above the monumental corridor public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts Located inside the Park of La Mandria, diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s The courtyard of the castle is also home the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred complex built in the mid-17th century as a Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

18 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 19 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

Located in Piedmont, just a short distance from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering year-round discounts. LUGANO MENDRISIO BERGAMO BRESCIA The Style Outlets TRIESTE ? MILANO Torino ? Outlet Village TORINO ALESSANDRIA ? Torino Outlet Village Vicolungo The Style Outlets BOLOGNA MAR ? GENOVASerravalle ADRIATICO Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village TH APPNNINI MOUNTAIN RIG ? The Mall VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE MAR LIGURE LIVORNO SIENA Serravalle Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village

PERUGIA TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO With over 90 stores of top Italian THE STYLE OUTLETS DESIGNER OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE and international brands, as well Situated 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from Situated one hour from Turin, Turin, this is the ideal place to Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the , as a selection of carefully selected eateries, guest services, and CORSICAspend a stylish day out where is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers amenities for families, this is an shopping, entertainment and Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, relaxation combine to satisfy all setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public requirements. Open 7 days a week luxury designerROMA brands with the surroundings and appealing holidays 10am-9pm). from 10 am to 8 pm. beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from • WHERE: located in Settimo • WHERE: take the A4MAR Torino- TIRRENO• WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm. Torinese, just 15 minutes from the Milano motorway and exit at and A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- centre of Turin, 30 minutes from Vicolungo. A daily shuttle exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at NAPOLI the main cities in Piedmont and 75 service, departing at 10am from service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. A free shuttle service, minutes from Milan, near the exits Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso from the A4 and A5 motorways, front of the Porta Nuova train of , Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via the Outlet is easily accessible by station) is available from Milan. For Scrivia and Novi Ligure. Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning car. The outlet provides a daily information and reservations: 02 • WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point shuttle bus service from the SARDEGNA867131 www.zaniviaggi.it. featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. city centre and a weekly service • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 from the main tourist resorts in stores, including Armani, Missoni, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious • WHAT: a must for shopping Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including a lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top apparel for the whole family, Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1 Classe, brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, sportswear, homeware and Casadei, at up to 30-70% less year- Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, beauty products at discounted round. Multiple customer services, and Liu.Jo Uomo with Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and prices of up to 70% year-round. including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, more) specializing in apparel, • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus accessories, footwear, homeware, Vicolungo The Style Outlets also well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and sports gear and personal care, with hosts art exhibitions, events and make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted year-round discounts of up to 70%. other initiatives for an entertaining experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. www.torinooutletvillage.com day’s outing. www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it

20 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN ACCESSORIES since 1931. In his shop, Carlo, the fifth generation W The Guidelines of the founding family, makes numerous models, M H E O Atelier Nina Tauro sewing the rib tips by hand and assembling the R C MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold E . T E R Established in 2006 in the vibrant San Salvario multi-coloured fabrics and materials. Customers R A V E L at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). district, this workshop produces a variety of hat can personalize their own umbrellas, choosing from styles, including unique, handmade models in different fabrics, embroidery, shafts and edgings. SHOPPING fabric, felt, leather and crochet. All materials are The handles in acacia or transparent resin can This directory, grouped by category, is a list of carefully selected, with a particular focus on quality. be filled with copper threads, shells, ribbons or establishments recommended by the editors of Inserts and details, including flowers, buckles, lace dried flowers… a real sartorial, tailor-made Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. and trimmings, are prevalently vintage. In addition umbrella. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 9.30am-6pm; Based on statistical evidence, the most popular to winning the ‘Eccellenza Artigiana’ award from Tues 9.30am-12noon/2pm-6pm; Thurs by luxury brands are grouped under the separate Piedmont in 2009, in 2010 the Atelier was awarded appointment only; Sat 8am-12noon. category “Top Brands”, which be found on page the Slow Fashion registered trademark by CNA Turin www.ombrelli.it. Via Sesia, 23/b. T: 011 852104. 28. Several unusual shops, stocking items and which guarantees 100% Made in Italy quality and Off Map rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific workmanship. The Atelier also creates made-to- Regina product categories, are listed under “Passion order hats for brides and special occasions. Open Located in the picturesque piazza Gran Madre, this Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping Tues-Sat 11am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Via S. Anselmo, 26/C. shop, selling handbags and accessories, will satisfy sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am Off Map your every whim, whether you’re lovers of Ash biker to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the boots, Golden Goose sneakers, Aquazzura pumps, traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Ombrellificio Torinese Castaner wedges or Stuart Weitzman’s jeweled Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and Located in the ancient Barriera di Milano district, this sandals. It also stocks a selection of bags, bijoux on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. artisanal workshop has created bespoke umbrellas and auteur fragrances. www.reginashoes.it. Open Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no

ADELE CHIABODO dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is © usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). The scented universe of Tonatto € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. A world of fragrances that strikes the deepest chords of the soul, where you can find home fragrances and ENTERTAINMENT perfumes, or create the scent that best reflects your personality. By Chiara Zaccarelli Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places Vicolungo The Style Outlets. rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain n Via della Rocca, not far from Piazza Vittorio Tonatto Profumi is a key representative of Italian >> www.tonatto.com our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”. Gear up for winter sport in style Veneto, there’s a hidden treasure trove perfumery throughout the world. Under the Via della Rocca, 14c. If the ski slopes are your passion, make sure to head to Vicolungo The Style Outlets for

Iwhere you can create your own scented supervision of Diletta Tonatto, the company’s T: 011 835631. Map G6 SIGHTSEEING your first off-piste experience! Thanks to the presence of big-name sports brands including portrait or purchase an element of olfactory Managing Director and Artistic Director who Several places like the Musei Reali or the Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite, Quiksilver and design that gives a distinctive identity to your boasts a degree in sociology and a doctorate Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our Odlo, you’ll find everything that you need to indulge in your favourite winter sport, with the decision to describe them in special boxes. living spaces. The Gallerie Olfattorie (Olfactory in the sociology of smell, the Maison offers added plus of even more affordable price tags thanks to the fall/winter sales. The information provided on museums and Galleries) are perfume ateliers where you can an array of 26 fragrances interpreted in a monuments is verified as meticulously as Until 1 March, you’ll have a chance to bag bargains with discounts of up to 70% on find all the fragrances of Maison Tonatto. In collection of fragrances for the home and possible. However, data such as telephone the outlet price at the centre’s 150 boutiques, featuring more than 300 Italian and addition to home fragrances and perfumes body. All the products in the collection are numbers, opening hours, prices and the international brands of clothing for men, women and children, accessories, homeware you can establish a connection with art, music, created using the traditional techniques of accessibility of sites are all subject to change, and cosmetics. on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration literature and films through the sense of smell, haute perfumery. The alcoholic compounds Located just 40 minutes from Turin, Vicolungo The Style Outlets is easily reachable by work, museum loans or changes stimulated by unique installations. However, are filtered by hand, resulting in a sought-after of management. Ask your concierge. car (A4 Motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). It is also connected to the city centre by a the real artistic heritage of the Maison is the balance of craftsmanship and innovation. All convenient shuttle service which departs on Saturdays and Sundays at 10am from Piazza All details are correct at the time of going to ‘Olfattoteca’, an archive that contains hundreds this translates into an authentic ritual that makes oress but several details can change: ask your Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova station. Additionally, Vicolungo The Style Outlets of olfactory notes where, like a haute couture Tonatto’s fragrances eminently wearable scents concierge to double-check all information. offers numerous services including tax-free shopping, free Wi-Fi and IAT tourist information. atelier, you can create your own bespoke that follow the passage of time without ever For more information visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it fragrance, based on individual requirements. being intrusive.

22 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] [ RINASCENTE] Top Brands One-stop shop

ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon A stroll through the streets 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. of the centre, amidst elegant Map F4 royal porticoes (that extend for 18km across the city), and BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— squares embellished with www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. sumptuous architecture, is a T: 011 4407207. Map F4 unique opportunity to soak up the city’s authentic charm. CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. It’s also a great destination for T: 011 5613226. Map F4 shopping enthusiasts. In the CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat heart of the city, often referred 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. to as ‘little Paris’, you’ll find T: 011 5066699. Map F4 A part of the exclusive “LOUIS VUITTON x League the best fashion brands. In of Legends” capsule collection, this “Boîte Chapeau particular, the austere and GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com Souple” bag is made from an exclusive Monogram Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, canvas, patterned with blue and silver . elegant via Roma and the 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 parallel via Lagrange, do • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. T. 011 5625977. Map F4 justice to the exquisite Italian 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 and international fashions on GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- The best shopping display. Alternately, a reference 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com point for young, trendy Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. in Turin Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 fashion is via Garibaldi – one HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat Head to Rinascente: located in the of the longest pedestrian 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. T: MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat heart of the Savoy city, the store - streets in Europe – which 011 546971. Map F4 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. T: 011 4782004. Map F4 now completely renovated - offers runs from Piazza Castello to ITALIA INDEPENDENT— new aesthetics and new spaces Piazza Statuto. The ideal place www.italiaindependent.com MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat for a unique shopping experience. for lovers of antiques and 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. T: 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. 011 5618744 Map F4

Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. vintage items is via Po, which links Piazza Castello Map F5 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.Via to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Map E5 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- The Rinascente department store in Turin has or Eleventy. On the second floor, visitors include Adidas Y3, All Star Converse, Nike, 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat completed a dynamic global restyling will find themselves immersed in a world of Premiata, Puma, Reebok, Superga and more. T: 011 19468000. Map F5 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via process that has now provided the building contemporary fashion. Fans of denim will be The fourth floor is the kingdom of classic G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. Map F4 with a new façade overlooking Via Lagrange spoilt for choice, thanks to iconic brands like ready-to-wear featuring the timeless allure LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open in order to optimise the retail space inside and Armani Exchange, Calvin Klein Jeans, Diesel, of the latest collections by Aspesi, Emporio T: 011 5620678. Map E5 daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 give the new Turin Rinascente store a more Levi’s and Tommy Jeans, accompanied by a Armani, Fabiana Filippi, Herno, Fay, Polo Ralph 19886532. Map F3 distinctive identity. Following the opening of selection of streetwear labels. Lauren, MaxMara Weekend and other brands LUISA SPAGNOLI—www.luisaspagnoli.it the -1 floor dedicated to homeware, design Another groundbreaking addition is the renowned for their contemporary classic Open Mon 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— and food, now the ground floor hosts a new creation of an outdoor clothing area, where style. The floor’s 1,200 square metres also Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am- www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am- 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 61. 7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 area devoted to accessories, jewelley and brands showcased include EA7, Napapijri host an area devoted to lingerie, in a visually T: 011 547136. Map F4 sunglasses, a Beauty Hall, featuring high-end or The North Face. striking architectural display, infused with • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com makeup brands, and the new Temakinho The third floor presents contemporary a romantic mood; the collections include 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm- Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. T: 011 restaurant, where you can sample ready-to-wear, expressed to perfection for a items from Wolford, Paladini, Emporio Armani, 7pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 9bis. T: 011 543447. 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Japanese-Brazilian cuisine. complete day-to-night lifestyle look. The focal Henro, Calvin Klein, Chantelle and Lejaby. The Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso Map F3 The first floor instead acts as a showcase for point of the floor is a 250 square meter area children’s collections, featuring on-trend picks Racconigi, 32 bis. T: 011 3852651. Off Map MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com classic collections, with a focus on outerwear dedicated to footwear. Brands showcased by big-name brands complete the shopping Made from featuring exquisite blue Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. WOLFORD—www.wolford.it by brands including Emporio Armani, Fay include Casadei, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Marni, experience at the store. decorations, this “Bleu d’Ailleurs” tray by HERMÈS Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10am- and Polo Ralph Lauren. The other side of the Sergio Rossi, Tod’s, Hogan, Tory Burch, Fratelli 1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat 10am- is inspired by the typical elegance of the Orient, floor hosts more contemporary offerings, with Rossetti, Michael Kors and numerous others. >> Rinascente Torino MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com 7.30pm; Sun 3.30pm-7pm. Via A. Doria, 6. both as regards its colour and geometric shapes. brands like Corneliani Collection and Hugo Lovers of a casual-chic look will be spoilt for www.rinascente.it - Open 7 days a week. Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- T: 011 531348. Map F5

THIS PAGE IS KINDLY SPONSORED BY RINASCENTE IS KINDLY THIS PAGE Boss, or more relaxed options, including Aspesi choice when it comes to sneakers. Brands Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075.

24 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING

Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm; SO San Lorenzo Thurs-Fri 9am-7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm- An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- 7.30pm. Via Villa della Regina, 3. T: 011 8193029. after style, this stand-alone store offers a selection Map I6 of established and emerging brands including Tax Free Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel Marant and CLOTHING Giambattista Valli. Additionally, its homeware MEN & WOMEN department features furnishing fabrics, unique Refund Guide design pieces and a careful selection of tableware Antonioli and furnishing accessories. www.sosanlorenzo. 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods This multi-brand boutique for men and women it. Open Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am- and services, and is part of the European Union’s in located in piazza Carlina, one of the city’s main 7.30pm. Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5 squares. Antonioli stocks a mixture of unconventional, value added tax system. prestigious designer labels including Rick Owens, Top Ten 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a Jil Sander, Anne Demeulemeester, Maison Margiela Located in the highly central via Soleri, this two-level VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services and Gareth Pugh. The choice of designer labels and space has been, since its inception, a reference supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. point for the city’s elite. Its discreet, minimalist the store’s interior decor are a reflection of Claudio 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: architectural style is reflected in its meticulous, well- Antonioli’s personal style. His philosophy is based • you are a non-EU resident; on blending contemporary taste with alternative defined choice of brands, ranging from the avant- • the goods purchased are intended for personal or solutions in a practical manner. www.antonioli.eu. garde to the most prestigious international brands family use Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7.30pm. like Comme des Garçons, Junya and Watanabe, to only and are carried in your luggage; Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 19. T: 011 883253. mention but a few. Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds Map G5 10am-7.30pm. Via Soleri, 2. T: 011 535360. Map E5 154,94 Euro (VAT included); invoice Boggi Milano Verdelilla • the purchase is certified by an . This invoice Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic research Tucked away in a beautiful courtyard in Corso Re should include a description of the goods purchased, and high-quality fabrics, offering clients a product Umberto, this alluring space houses a selection of your personal information as well as the details of that’s excellent value for money. www.boggi.com. coveted French and Japanese brands, by designers your passport or any other equivalent document; like Tsumori Chisato, Jerome Dreyfuss and Jamin Via XX Settembre, 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the Puech, and also showcases the creations of emerging Tues- Sat 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta third month after the month that you bought them; Nuova - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 brands. Amidst fashion, accessories, bijoux, • several specific customs formalities are 5 622017. Map E6 perfumes and cosmetics, this must-visit boutique exudes an atmosphere of innovative taste, relaxed complied with; Caramello elegance and low-key femininity. www.verdelilla.it. • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer Located in the centre of Turin, this large showroom Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Corso Re Umberto, 27. within four months after the purchase was made. offers a wide selection of men and women’s fashions. T: 011 5172701. Map D6 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must The assortment ranges from Elisabetta Franchi’s shown at the customs feminine, contemporary collections to sartorial men’s be exit point when leaving brand Tagliatore, from Dondup, the queen of Made- DEPARTMENT STORE EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items in-Italy denim, to Patrizia Pepe and Manuel Ritz. Rinascente into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs Caramello also has an outlet in the Crocetta district, Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end shopping BEFORE checking in). showcasing last season’s collections at affordable is located in the city’s highly central via Lagrange. 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return prices. caramellostore.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; This department store offers the best in fashion for the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the Tues-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Corso G. men, women and children, alongside a selection customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Ferraris, 2. T: 011 5175090. Map D3 of accessories, design, homeware and beauty by must be returned within four months from the date Kristina Ti the best Italian and international brands. At its food market, you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy when the document was issued. The standalone store of Torinese brand Kristina foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian offers romantic, highly feminine collections designed international products. Don’t miss the renewed retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve by Cristina Tardito. At this warm, welcoming space, floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th floors located just a stone’s throw from piazza Castello, chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat you’ll find clothing for free spirited, independent Free” sign in its window). 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am-8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, women, who are not prepared to sacrifice a touch 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer 15. T: 011 5170075. Map F5 of seductive frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods 3.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria San Carlo dal 1973 leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4 Having abandoned its former vocation for big- the passenger from having to return the invoice to name fashion brands, this multi-functional concept the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at store focuses on collections based on a ‘no brand’ major international airports or main border crossings. approach, giving way to a selected assortment of Most major department stores have Tax Free creations by emerging designers. Besides perfumes, Refund offices essences, accessories, artisanal jewelry from British, . Japanese and American designers, the store features 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply a selection of apparel, homeware and hand-crafted the payment of a small administrative sum which Japanese items. A terrace with a bar welcomes is directly deducted from the amount of VAT customers wanting to sip a cocktail or choose their refunded to the traveller. favourite dish from the small menu that changes 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund weekly.www.sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm- 7pm; Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 161. T: within a reasonable period of time, he or she 011 5114111. Map F4 should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. Legendary and timeless, ‘CHANEL NO. 5’ exudes the However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded very essence of femininity. This eau de parfum has a floral directly by customs offices. bouquet, composed around May Rose and Jasmine, and is Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund showcased within an iconic bottle featuring minimalist lines.

26 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 27 SHOPPING DICER

JEWELLERY & WATCHES La Belle Histoire SHOES Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, this Astrua 1860 retrò-style atelier, overlooking a picturesque Bottega Velasca ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the oldest courtyard, is a go-to destination for romantics who’ll Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east watchmakers in Europe, is located in the heart find themselves surrounded by old suitcases, trunks, of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and of Turin, between the First Italian Parliament and wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. accessories) store for men offers customers an the National Library. A key visitor attraction at the The store offers a selection of almost exclusively authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned for entrance to the boutique is an elevator operated Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception of its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, Bottega with a visible gear mechanism reminiscent of those French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss Intropia and Velasca offers a selection of classic, casual and used in watches. At its historic store, boasting an Japanese brand Takaaki. Other highlights include formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm-8pm; Tues-Fri innovative, modern concept, Astrua presents its a collection of strictly Italian-made footwear and a 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun 11am-8pm. www. contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite leather homeware line. www.labellehistoire.it. Open Mon velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 22/e. T: 02 94755460 goods and precious accessories. In addition 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; ([email protected]). Map G6 to several of the world’s most coveted watch Thurs and Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g.T: brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger- 011 8136199. Map H3 Hole LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Les Coquettes This multi-brand store located in the heart of the Panerai, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, Longines city sells high-quality footwear distinguished by Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, amidst and Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 stocks its original design. You’ll find a interesting mix vintage hat stands, drawers filled with costume Murano glass by Venini, creations by Tudor, luxury of trendy brands here, including Ixos, Moma jewelry, antiques and pink leather sofas, this unusual, accessories, Edward Green footwear, Amouage and Strategia, alongside models by Italian and whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian fragrances and Pasotti umbrellas. Open Mon 3pm- internal artisanal producers. Also sells bags and air, offers a selection of clothing, delicious bijoux, 7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www. accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing astrua.com. Via Cesare Battisti, 15 corner of Piazza 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am- accessories. www.lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat Carlo Alberto. T: 011 5613873. Map F4 12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. T: 011 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, ENY 5176602. Map E3 12/l. T: 011 531943. Map F3 Rocca 1794

ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and Rrriot shop Cribì watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district of Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by its minimalist central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand store Rocca pays homage to fine watchmaking with a decor, mixes men and women’s clothing with vintage selling minimalist, alternative footwear and selection of the world’s most prestigious brands jewelry and accessories and young, creative brands. clothing, featuring a combination of craftsmanship including Damiani, Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Thanks to ongoing research, Rrriot strives to offer and experimentation to create elegant, timeless Blancpain, Bucherer, Lange & Sohne, Longines, its customers a range of products that are always lines. Best sellers include boots by Fiorentini+Baker, Ulysse Nardin, Salvini and Venini. Rocca is different and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin pumps by Del Carlo and original clothing by Malloni acknowledged for its longstanding tradition of to Northern European brands designed exclusively and Liviana Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon professionalism and expert consultancy. Located in for the Italian market. www.rrriotshop.com. Tues-Fri 3.30pm-7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm- the shadow of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Sat 10.30am- 7.30pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. Alberto Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end 7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. T: 011 19500239. Map F7 Map F5 of the 18th century. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm, Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.rocca1794. com. Via Roma, 290. T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4 LEATHER & LUGGAGE Maledetti Toscani This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, , when the great-great grandfather of the present owners opened a leather workshop. Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues to focus religiously on time-honoured Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched artisanal bags. www. maledettitoscani.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18. T: 011 5579134. Map E4 PASSION SHOPPING Culti House Torino At this small, charming boutique decorated in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. The space houses all the brand’s collections of room and home fragrances including diffusers, room sprays, ROCCA 1794 candles, cosmetics and scented pillows. www.culti. The historic Rocca Boutique is a prestigious, luxury destination and the only retailer in the com. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. city selling the world’s most desirable jewelry and watch brands. It comprises two floors, Via C. Battisti, 3. T: 011 0361363. Map F4 four hundred square metres, nine brightly-lit shop windows and top name brands. www.rocca1794.com CITY GUIDE

28 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the The locale’s 19th century cellar, featuring barrel TRADITIONAL search for premium-quality ingredients with a vaults and open brick walls, hosts more than 300 PIEDMONTESE CUISINE particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables labels. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-midnight. €€€. (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional www.leviteletonne.com. Via San Francesco da Cannavacciuolo Bistrot charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. Map G4 Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award winning accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. Plin & Tajarin Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, will not Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio disappoint. The bistro offers guests a unique noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out

PHOTOS BRUNO GALLIZZI tasting experience featuring a combination of 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3 small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the © northern and southern flavours. Highlights include staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which Fassona beef tartare, codfish with tomatoes, Le Vitel Etonné are available with numerous fillings and sauces, eggplant parmigiana ravioli with a Provola cheese The standout at this restaurant located in the heart including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, sauce and pigeon with blueberries and burrata of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one of the great after or as an accompaniment, diners can order (a fresh Italian buffalo cheese made from classics of Piedmont cuisine, an absolute must-try meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious mozzarella and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; at its namesake restaurant. Other specialties ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. www. include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta prepared according traditional desserts, including amaretto ice cream. cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. to a traditional recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri 7.45pm- Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 of flour, served with an array of seasonal sauces, 10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. Via G. Casalis, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage and ‘agnolotti al plin’. 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3 Casa Amelie A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premium- quality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm-10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With tables spilling out onto the square in warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied Combal.zero Dolce Stil Novo by a great selection of wines. Open 12.30pm- The tastiest slices 3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: The reasons for pizzeria Berberè’s success include living sourdough, organic seasonal ingredients, 388 8767003. Map F3 Royal cuisine Consorzio easily digestible dough, and a convivial concept. By Chiara Zaccarelli In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, A visit to the Regge, a part of the historic and cultural heritage of the Savoy family Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes located just outside Turin, is also synonymous with fine dining. Over the past few re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in years, both the Reggia di Venaria Reale and the Castello di Rivoli have enriched ocated in the heart of Turin, just a short try different flavours. Another important plus >> Piazzetta Madonna degli Angeli, 2 Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese their offerings with the launch of two restaurants, Dolce Stil Novo and Combal.zero, beef, leeks, the hunchback thistles of distance from Piazza CLN, in piazzetta is the sole use of living sourdough and long corner of via Cavour. T: 011 18841142 where you can enjoy the best of contemporary Piedmontese tradition. The former, Madonna degli Angeli, you’ll find natural leavening: the dough rests for 24 hours www.berbere.it and freshly picked, garden- L grown vegetables. A harmonious combination located on the top floor of the palace, above the Galleria di Diana, and helmed by chef Berberè, the Bolognese pizza brand renowned at regulated room temperature. This makes the that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, Alfredo Russo, offers a cuisine based on respect for the past and an ongoing search for its artisanal pizza. The locale, Berberè’s pizza easier to digest than dough fermented farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced for simplicity, to highlight the outstanding quality of the produce. Some examples? second outpost in Turin, and the thirteenth with beer yeast. Based on years of research from the best local producers, with a few forays Alfredo Russo ‘Vegetable Soup’ featuring 18+ seasonal vegetable, ‘Black cod with in Europe, with seating for 50 customers, is and experimentation, Berberè uses organic, into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Riviera olives and cauliflower mayonnaise’ and ‘Dolce Stil Novo Bollito misto’ (mixed decorated with coloured boiserie and rough stone-ground, semi-whole wheat flour, that Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat boiled meats), enhanced by unexpected pairings (www.dolcestilnovo.com). exposed brickwork. The wall painting was contains fiber, hydrosoluble vitamins and all 7.30pm-11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte Alternatively, at Combal.zero, a restaurant situated next to Castello di Rivoli’s created by visual artists TO/LET, who drew the trace elements found in the grain. Other di Pietà, 23. Contemporary , where it mirrors the modern, minimalist architecture T: 011 2767661. Map E3 inspiration from the history of the space - a wine standouts include the use of organic seasonal in a striking glass and wrought iron pavilion, chef Davide Scabin combines a cellar in the 1930s - to depict a child swimming ingredients that, wherever possible, promote È Cucina solid knowledge of tradition with innovative dishes and cooking techniques. His in red wine. The elements that have determined traditional Italian production processes. The This charming restaurant owned by theatrical philosophy of cuisine is expressed to perfection in a tasting menu named ‘Viaggio Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly Berberè’s success include pizza that’s soft on menu is seasonal and focuses entirely on pizza, verso atavica’, where more complex, conceptual dishes, including his famous ‘Cervo lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary the inside and crunchy on the outside, plus with sixteen different offerings ranging from the décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular a ’, are served first, followed later by lighter offerings like ‘Baccarat artichokes the convivial idea of dividing the pizza into most classic to the most sought-after, with a few contemporary concept in . The and marinated tuna’ (www.combal.org). eight slices so that everyone at the table can forays into the vegetarian world.

30 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING DINING

Porto di Savona One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital Pastry Shops of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style Michelin-starred restaurants confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing Eight starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while accessories and walls decorated with period the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be misled by its name – features classic Piedmont therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although Spazio 7 Casa Vicina it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala CAFFÈ PLATTI Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5 Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. a social and cultural reference point for Via , 10. T:011 231032 Scannabue 20th-century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded Located in the trendy San Salvario district, Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ the rooms of an old apothecary established in young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and has been run by renowned patissier Guido Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange Piedmont labels including Arneis, and LIDO VANNUCCHI

T: 011 4546151. cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily © hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. CANNAVACCIUOLO Via Nizza, 224 c/o Eataly Lingotto. can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s GHIGO mention are the locale’s savoury offerings Map E7 BISTROT TORINO T: 011 19506840. tasting menu by chef Marcello Trentini. Just a This historic pastry shop, located just steps which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, Established to offer diners an elegant, unique www.casavicina.com Off Map little further on, in the same street, the chef from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori experience, this restaurant highlights the has opened Casa Mago, a cocktail bar with served with freshly whipped cream and for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it. This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri essence of the famous Neapolitan chef CONDIVIDERE an adjacent pastry shop where you can dine, marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, Traditional is re-interpreted enjoy a drink or purchase delicious sweet with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for which sees traditional ingredients from his by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi in a treats. with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, homeland mixed and matched with those contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. T: 011 8126808. ‘’ covered with a butter icing and a First pastry shop of Iginio Massari, “Best Pastry seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the from Piedmont. The space has been designed can be enjoyed in an informal atmosphere. www.magorabin.com Map H4 generous sprinkling of icing sugar. Chef in the World” at the World Pastry Stars restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui. Particular attention is paid to raw materials www.pasticceriaghigo.it 2019 contest. Based on a new formula that is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. and to desserts that are served in a separate SPAZIO 7 Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. visualizes a series of pastry shops that differ chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional from one another, this is a multifunctional specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. Here, Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. Open guests can choose from an array of different Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, PASTICCERIA VENIER space. Open throughout the day, it houses and open-plan workshop in the basement 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. CARIGNANO Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the torino.circololettori.it/servizi/. plus two rooms where you can sample and At the restaurant located inside the Grand single-servings of desserts. of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by centre, is another go-to destination to start (or Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 Hotel Sitea, the culinary offerings are Via Bologna, 20A. c/o Nuvola Lavazza Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for purchase Massari’s sweet treats. Here you can find more tha 12 types of products, ranging inspired by Piedmont’s renowned regional T: 011 0897651. here after working at several of Piedmont’s its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass ETHNIC CUISINE cuisine, re-imagined by Milanese Chef www.condividere.com Map H1 most historic restaurants, mirrors the cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with from cakes to fruit jellies, croissants and Hafa Storie Fabrizio Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in foundation’s concept: young, contemporary foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa bite-sized pastries, plus the signature Dolce A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is Piedmont tradition with a few forays into the DEL CAMBIO and open to innovation. The wine list features powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its Torino, a unique gianduia chocolate plumcake created exclusively to honour the city of Turin. fairly common because the city’s second largest nearby region of Liguria. His menu features Established in 1757, it was among the the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, foreign community is the Moroccan community, Particolar attention is paid to packaging. traditional dishes re-imagined and re-adapted favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count regions in France. and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, in keeping with contemporary techniques of Cavour, , Honoré de Via , 20. di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate www.iginiomassari.it. Piazza C.L.N., 232. the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. T: 011 4249343. and tastes. Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and c/o Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo and two amaretti instead of shortcake. While the Piedmontese offerings are created Via Carlo Alberto, 35. c/o Grand Hotel Sitea the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real T: 011 3797626. by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. T: 011 5170171. Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous traditions, which he reinterprets with a VINTAGE 1997 In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays CASA VICINA creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose 17th As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop the foundations for a harmonious, productive Located in the headquarters of Eataly, this century aisles house 2,200 labels, is also worth old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s that turns out approximately 20 different cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm- restaurant is run by the Vicina family, who a visit. culinary offerings are also true to tradition. 12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled Galleria Massari Iginio for five generations have embraced the Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. T: 011 region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines and www.delcambio.it Map F4 authentic Piedmontese specialties including caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is 19486765. Map F2 traditional cuisine, infused with prime quality truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, infused with a warm, homely Provence-style Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar ingredients. The wine list is extensive and MAGORABIN practiced for the past twenty years with atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level well structured. Since Casa Vicina collaborates Just steps from the Mole, this starred traditional Piedmontese professionalism. French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, with Eataly, customers can choose from the restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an Piazza Solferino, 16H. T: 011 535948. vintage trays, you can purchase traditional knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the emporium’s fabulously stocked wine cellar. eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You www.vintage1997.com Map E4 traditional flavours of every region in , from its

32 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

Porto di Savona renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, waffles are deliciously light and topped with either sourced from only the finest producers. It has now sweet or savoury ingredients while you wait. Make taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s sure to try the house special whose batter is mixed best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions with cooked bacon and served with rocket leaves coast to its Food glossary of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that and Philadelphia cream cheese. Open Mon-Sat mountains, encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from 11.30am-7.30pm. €. From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s right up Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San Tommaso, to the finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4 Amazonian famous ‘’ association, an international, non-profit organization olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta forests, Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 Mollìca committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here interpreted noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com. Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, with a gourmet Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3 hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials twist. Signature cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola. dishes include Fassona Gusto Madre At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and beef tartare with fried Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish choose to have your sandwich filled with these are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve marrow bone and spicy of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted or numerous other ingredients, all sourced compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. mayonnaise, marinated with numerous dough varieties, flours and exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian B Y C. Z. scallops and tapioca, ceviches and even a South ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether American interpretation of Piedmont’s classic these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), accompanied by a that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed ‘focacciona’, there’s no way that you can go wrong carefully selected choice of Piedmont wines. Open by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese Tues-Sat 12 noon-2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 combined with the creativity and skill inherent in bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon- BAGNA CAUDA of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, noon-2.45pm. €€. kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar. time-honoured dough-making techniques, are 3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon-4pm/7pm-10.30pm. This typical winter specialty consists of a veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with business.site. Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. the reasons for the success of this healthy, easy- €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737. sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter Map F2 to-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from Map F7 oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it. and chopped nuts can also be added. regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form Oriental Daily by Kiki Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6 Street Fish In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, Although this might seem strange in a city like Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked pasta together. fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere. TASTING EXPERIENCE it encourages conviviality, on the other, PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of Options on offer include fish tartare served in a especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you the venue’s original desserts including Azuki & STREET FOOD corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats might find people avoiding you because you Piedmontese Mixed Fry bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese Gofreria piemonteisa reek of it! custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. www. Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured to watch the chefs at work, while the other half PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY musetto (a pork sausage made in part from orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 This uniquely rich local specialty of a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked Off Map noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4. famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast-based Piedmont consists of a combination of fried for several hours in boiling water. It is Bagna Cauda batter, without eggs or milk, these mouth-watering T: 389 0010612. Map F5 liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and PIZZA a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, a side of vegetables. One of the favourite A Casa di Pulcinella amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and An informal locale which, as its name suggests, by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables. Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied Not a dish for the faint-hearted. even has its own brotherhood. by a wide selection of craft and other beers. Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. VITELLO TONNATO Ingredients include the classics for which These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and

mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage. white wine, sliced thinly and served cold BOSCHERINO/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIOVANNI Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. © with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, Vitello Tonnato www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. T: 011 egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white 595 457. Off Map wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Bakery Restaurant & Pizza Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not BONET far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from ingredients. Diners can choose from among a sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti variety of classic toppings, with a few regional biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly natural culinary technique that is used to select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. LE VITEL ETONNÉ preserves the softness of the dessert and Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3 Located just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional

TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM facilitates the formation of a delicious crust

regional dishes including “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call “Vitel CAZZANTI/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VALENTINO

© Bagna Cauda Bonet Crudo fa la Pizza! Tonné”. Main dishes are based on traditional recipes, such as homemade fresh pasta, the on its surface. © Crudo is an award-winning food company, classic Tajarin, agnolotti and plin. www.leviteletonne.com boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city,

34 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 35 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN APERITIVI Gastronomia (La) ITALIAN GELATO VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you can Ballantine’s eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take cookery Gelateria Pepino Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar courses. Its dishes, all cooked with meat-free UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the heart ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre ingredients, include Seitan, Russian and Capricciosa of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice cream of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of salad and a strictly anchovy-free Piedmont green parlours that has been producing high-quality ice wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic sauce for vegans who are fans of Piedmont cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented and patented drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. specialties. The deli is located in via Dante Nenni, the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice cream on a Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. in the heart of Borgo San Paolo, Turin’s historical, stick covered with chocolate that soon became Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5 working class district. Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri popular throughout the rest of the world. In addition 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. to the classic vanilla version, Pepino offers a variety Beena Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map of different options including coffee, , mint This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena and coconut. Open Fri-Sat 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun- (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). Làit e Formagg Thurs 9.30am-8.30pm. www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and Located just steps from the centre, this small, well- Carignano, 87. T: 011 542009. Map F4 seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, Mara dei Boschi immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb-flavoured cheeses and more) Its natural ice cream made from only the finest Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high- ingredients without preservatives or additives, Map F7 quality charcuterie and other regional specialties won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours La Drogheria which translates literally as mother-in-law’s tongues) Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from the 8am-2pm/4pm-8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an ideal choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon-11pm; Sat and Sun 12noon-midnight. Via Berthollet, 30/h. bite-sized . Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; Pescheria Gallina Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. www. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com. Corso De Now run by the fourth generation, this historic Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del 8122414. Map H5 mercato has been in business for over a century. Romana (La) Lanificio San Salvatore Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the This bistrot in the Sant’Ambrogio district does a Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just 24 selection of Tuscan wines, Italian spumanti and this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers can champagne, served in a Bohemian atmosphere accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing choose their order directly from the counter or opt amidst little tables and large windows. Huge dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. for its fixed-price menu, which include the catch of selection of over 380 makes of rum, unique in the Highlights include an interesting wine list, including the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine and a bottle whole of . Open from lunch to after-supper, numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Sat 7.30am-5pm. also hosts events. cafe1926firenze.com. DANIELE CATALANO classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza della Repubblica, Via G.B. Niccolini, 30/r (Sant’Ambrogio district). © Map F2 evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs 6pm- 14/b. T: 011 5213424. T: 055 2346296. Map L2 2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7 The gourmet side of street food FOOD SHOPS Borgiattino A sandwich or a pizza? If after a long day’s sightseeing in Turin you find yourself looking for an informal place A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine for a quick but tasty snack or a drink, then the Vineria Trapizzino is your go-to address. By Giulia Minero d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, and . Located in the heart of the city, this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties from other ocated in the heart of Piazza Carlina, make the filling for burrata) with anchovies, Italian and European regions including Reblochon from France and Cheddar from Britain, accompanied nestled by the walls of the historic and tongue in a green sauce, to daily specials by wines and other high-quality artisanal products. LPalazzo Coardi di , La Vineria featuring traditional Piedmontese ingredients, Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. Trapizzino – the second gourmet branch like raw Bra sausage or Castelmagno cheese. borgiattino.com. Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. signed by Trapizzino in the city after the Other standouts include supplì, the Roman Map C4

Mercato Centrale in Porta Palazzo - delights street food par excellence, made from fried Eataly Torino Lingotto foodies with a creative reinterpretation balls of rice with a filling of melted cheese Located in Turin’s Lingotto district, Eataly is a cult of pizza. The ‘trapizzino’ is essentially a or a selection of traditional Italian desserts. destination dedicated to Italian gastronomy, offering pocket of white pizza dough made from long The name ‘La Vineria Trapizzino’ pays tribute numerous gift ideas to satisfy every palate. Set in a large converted factory, this 11,000-sq-metre fermented sourdough, served hot and filled, to the venue’s important wine list, boasting emporium, houses a vast array of eateries, serving

like a modern-day sandwich, with the typical over 200 labels from all over Italy, with FEDERICA DI GIOVANNI

traditional Italian and Piedmontese specialties. A © ingredients of Roman and Italian cuisine. a focus on Piedmont, plus a list dedicated go-to destination for a sweet or savoury breakfast, a Recipes range from classic fillings, that are exclusively to Champagne. quick lunch, a tantalizing afternoon tea, a dinner at a MERCATO CENTRALE pizzeria or a gourmet restaurant, without forgetting always featured on the menu, including A large space on three levels encompassing food, culture and artisanship under one roof. Michelin-starred restaurant Casa Vicina (entrance chicken cacciatore, meatballs in tomato >> Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 17 Located in Porta Palazzo, a historic hub of commerce in the heart of the city, it offers the from via Nizza 224). Open daily 10am/10.30pm. Torinese and tourists a chance to share a new gastonomic experience, purchase products sauce, eggplant parmesan (parmigiana di T: 011 18755933. Map G5. T: 011 19506801. www.eataly.net. Via Nizza, 230. to take away or sample on-site. www. mercatocentrale.it melanzane), stracciatella (the cheese used to trapizzino.it Off Map

36 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium to the above, this must-visit museum offers a shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and international artists. The Art Library and the a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, Football Club whose home matches have been Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, played here since 2011, the year when the facility www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. compatible facilities in the world, in addition to J-Museum (Juventus Museum) net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. being one of the two architectural symbols of Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the Off Map modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is Mole Antonelliana major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex dedicated to the history and triumphs of the The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a Juventus Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The of the world’s best and most innovative sports , the Mole was purchased by J-Museum, the first official football museum of the museums. State-of the-art technology, memorabilia the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. and an adrenalin-filled atmosphere offer fans a of national unity. At the time of its construction it www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. Corso unique, memorable experience. By purchasing a was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. combined Museum and Stadium Tour ticket you can at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Off Map also visit several areas of the Allianz Stadium that 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole are generally off-limits to the public. Open from 16 Basilica di Superga rises through layers of windows and pseudo- September to 15 March, Mon-Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat- Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a Greek columns to a huge ribbed and a Sun and Holydays 10.30am-7.30pm. Closed on 25 thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed December and every Tuesday (unless matchday). deliverance from the French siege of 1706, star is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. The ticket office closes one hours before the the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces Inside, a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors museum. Matchday opening hours: see official site. by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it on a ride through the roof of the museum’s vast Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/it/stadium- according to the style of the era with a colonnaded atrium and up 85 metres inside the tower to the e-museum. Via 153. T: 011 4530486. portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ 360-degree observation platform at the top of Off Map convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the the cupola. The view of Turin and its surrounding hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine Lingotto Alpine range is absolutely spectacular. Visitors mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass can also access the panoramic deck on foot by and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté climbing the 573 steps located inside the cavity of more stunning when viewed from the top of the Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still the cupola (by reservation from Monday to Friday, dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by and without reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions public holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana apartments, you can walk around the building to of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. Via see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Map H4 football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on

BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car © or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map The “Living Room” of Turin Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte With its arcades, period palaces and historic cafés, Piazza San Carlo holds the record for the most elegant Contemporanea The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of and picturesque square in the city. By Chiara Zaccarelli Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the ormerly a parade ground and the century Palazzo Solaro del Borgo which still football team. The square is lined with an city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the city’s marketplace, Piazza San Carlo is retains the imprint of the original design by array of cafes, where intellectuals and men latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by Flocated along an axis bisected by the Castellamonte. Featuring lavishly decorated of culture, but also noblemen and members Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, , highly central via Roma. Considered the most 18th century rooms, the Palazzo is now home of the royal family, would meet. Among these, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa beautiful square in the city, it still preserves to the Accademia Filarmonica (Philharmonic standouts include Caffè San Carlo, which Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on the harmonious 17th century appearance Accademy). The short, south-westerly side opened in 1842 and was one of the favourite Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. that architect gave it of the square is bordered by the Baroque haunts of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. when it was originally built. Spread over an facades of the twin churches of Santa Cristina Caffè Torino, which was patronized by Cesare Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. area of 12,768 square meters, it is a rectangle and San Carlo. However, Piazza San Carlo is Pavese and Alcide De Gasperi and Confetteria Off Map of perfect proportions with an equestrian not as famous for its monumental appearance Stratta, which still boasts its original 1836 GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e ITALYPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ENRICOALIBERTI statue of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of as it is for the important social role that it has furnishings. Here, in addition to numerous Contemporanea PALAZZO CARIGNANO Savoy, affectionately known to locals as played since it was first built. It is not therefore sweet treats, you’ll also find traditional GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of Built between 1679 and 1684 by , this impressive Baroque building in Piazza the ‘Caval ëd Bronz’ (the Bronze Horse), at surprising that it is described as “The Living giandujotti, the delicious and most symbolic 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout its centre. The monument shows the 16th Room of Turin”: it was, and continues to be, hazelnut chocolate of Piedmont. Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento century Italian hero in the act of sheathing a site for concerts, political demonstrations Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original his sword after the victory of San Quintino. and various social and cultural events, as well >>Piazza San Carlo installations, videos and photos, plus one of the parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it Overlooking the square to the east is the 17th as celebrations honouring Juventus, Turin’s Map F4 most important collections of video art. In addition

38 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events Museo Egizio TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Museum, the Savoy Gallery, A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza cup at the entrance. This Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7 when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Piazza San Carlo comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence collections through an evocative, interactive Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the itinerary. In addition to a vast film library Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of Castellamonte, while building on the latter began it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing Museo della Sindone big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according to the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ to piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am- several of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with 11pm. Closed on Tues shops. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Have you heard of Jean-François headquarters – the imposing Palazzo four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from www.museocinema.it. Mole Antonelliana. Via Caffè San Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino or the Champollion? A French archaeologist delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 and Egyptologist and the director of the back to the 17th century – the museum is the property of the ), as well as by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European Map H4 Egyptian sector of the in Paris, extremely modern in terms of both its layout the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred he is the man who deciphered and immersive visitor experience. the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located the mystery of hieroglyphics Remodelled by Oscar-winning set on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened through the Rosetta Stone designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, approximately seven hectares of land, 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) in 1822. It is also thanks to the exhibition space was doubled, and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a Champollion’s expertise following massive renovations, beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and and former opulent splendour. Due to culture. The venue hosts a rich program of that we owe the defining and is now spread over four Museo Egizio exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique ongoing renovations, today only a portion of statement: “The road to levels, three above ground and Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian and electronic – as well as events dedicated to collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 Memphis and Thebes one below ground, organized the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani passes through Turin.” in chronological order. important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works When mentioning Here you’ll find mummies, in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Turin, he was referring tombs, papyrus sheets and expert . It is housed inside the Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance housed in the new underground space lying T: 011 4365832. Map G4 to its unique and everything related to ancient adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In Parco del Valentino extraordinary (included embalmed PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Egyptian Museum, animals) from the Paleolithic lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. the world’s first to the Coptic era. If you’re so stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Egyptian museum overwhelmed that you don’t frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts houses numerous treasures including the Castello Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, Off Map founded in 1824, the know where to begin your official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty second in terms of the tour, get an audio guide. It’s free Teatro Regio 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, value and number of and allows you to choose and faithful 19th century reconstructions based on Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm artifacts (around 40,000) personalize your itinerary to suit the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, outside of Cairo, and individual requirements. A tip? between the 18th and 19th centuries. your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, for educational purposes and open to the public and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo the eighth most widely The Restoration Area on the first PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind Mollino, the only part of the original building visited museum in Italy. floor that allows visitors to watch on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. or partially sighted visitors are also available. The British newspaper animal mummies being restored. an 18th century building that, over the T: 011 4406903. Map F4 Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from “The Times” listed it as one centuries, was used as a residence for cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea Museo Lavazza members of the Savoy family, house paths. The park is always open, but the Castello Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous of the 50 best museums >> Museo Egizio Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands the temporary exhibitions of the Royal del Valentino is not open to the public. The artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio on the planet. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, is one of the most important Italian theatres on Museums. Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April Despite its longstanding T: 011 4406903. Map F4 it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di the European scene, and offers an action-packed history and historic www.museoegizio.it advertisements and celebrities that have become an Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and integral part of its public image. The museum uses a Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. circular route to focus on its creative collaborations di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

40 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 OUT OF TOWN FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN because the temperature inside them remains constant. Several of these old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape harvest) or on special occasions (www.ecomuseopietracantoni.it). If you feel like sampling some wine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also find a good

MIKEDOTTA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM selection of whites, including Moscato. An © absolute ‘must’ for wine connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca Regionale di Monferrato. Located in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase some of the area’s best local wines (www.enotecadelmonferrato.it).

ROERO Roero is situated in the northeastern part of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, this area is renowned for its enogastronomic and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Historic wine cellar in Langhe Castle of is particularly noteworthy. The castle is located in the province of Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal and currently home to the headquarters of the to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido residences of the House of Savoy ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the castle, in addition restaurant located in the nature reserve of (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just to stocking several of the region’s finest Doc Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). a short distance from Alba, the Castle of and Docg wines, also hosts the interesting Monticello is one of the most imposing and Langhe Museum (www.castellogrinzane. MONFERRATO best-preserved medieval buildings in the area com). Other must-sees include the Castle of Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been LEOKS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © Barolo and its surrounding town, which gives the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area owned and inhabited by the Roero family of Castle its name to the most famous Italian red wine occupies a fertile tract of terrain between the Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). There’s and is thought to date back to mediaeval times. provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In addition nothing that says ‘royal highness’ more than The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine to numerous historic, cultural and outdoor a castle. Experience what it feels like to be a museum that takes visitors on an immersive activities, Monferrato is renowned for its prince or princess for one night and stay at the Discovering Piedmont journey through the history of viticulture via gastronomic specialties. Nature, culture, art Castle of , an important stopover on light, film and installations. The museum is and religion combine in a walk that takes the Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also set over three floors of the village’s stunning visitors on a journey to discover the Nature hosts a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux Avant-garde wineries, a legacy medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit to Park of the , in the province chain (www.castellodiguarene.com). his is UNESCO’s official reason for adding and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, the building’s panoramic terrace and its ancient of Alessandria, a real feat of architectural For real foodies, an absolute must is the famous of world-class cuisine and the wine-growing regions of the they all have different morphologies, and wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). After visiting design that encompasses Mount Crea and its sausage of Bra, a delectable product made from marvelous landscapes. All of T Langhe-Roero and Monferrato to cultural characteristics. The region’s varied the museum in Barolo, stop in the village of sanctuary, which in turn, is a UNESCO World lean beef and bacon. Since it requires hardly these things have earned the its world heritage list in 2014. “An exceptional landscape provides fertile soil for an impressive , better known as ‘the terrace of the Heritage site. If you prefer a historical visit to any ageing, it’s eaten fresh year-round and living testimony to the historical tradition of array of local specialties: from superlative wine, Langhe’ thanks to its spectacular views, and an excursion, don’t miss the Eco Museum traditionally served raw, usually as an antipasto, areas of the Langhe, Roero and grape growing and winemaking processes, of to the prized white truffles of Alba, porcini head to Massimo Camia’s starred restaurant for of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a type of sandstone or cooked in a sauce that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ Monferrato UNESCO World a social context, and a rural economy based on mushrooms and IGP hazelnuts. Located just a fabulous gourmet meal (www.massimocamia. only found in this area – in . In (typically fresh Piedmontese pasta) or polenta Heritage status, resulting in viticulture. The vineyards of the Langhe-Roero an hour’s drive from Turin, these regions can be it). In addition to other specialties, the area is addition to informing visitors about the history, (www.salsicciadibra.it). and Monferrato are an outstanding example of accessed by car (several of the larger centres renowned for its famous three-lobed hazelnut, landscapes and art of Monferrato, the museum Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to an elite tourist destination. man’s interaction with his natural surroundings.” can also be reached by train). Other options boasting ‘Protected Geographical Indication’ also organizes initiatives and events targeted the architectural complex of the Agenzia BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ include one of the many organized wine and status and used to make various sweet treats. at highlighting the historical characteristics of di Pollenzo is well worth your time. Built in which is symbolic, because man has managed tasting tours on offer. Ask your concierge. If you want to purchase these tantalizing the place. For some years now, the museum 1833, as a country residence for the House to shape it, giving it the unique characteristics specialties and see how they’re made, visit has undertaken the arduous but worthwhile of Savoy, it now hosts the first University that it boasts today. THE LANGHE Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal workshop (www. task of taking an inventory of the ‘infernot’ in of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. In this area, the vineyards of several of the The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro giovannicogno.it). Lastly, an absolute ‘must’ for the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless underground This university was founded and promoted world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, River and Liguria, between the provinces lovers of medieval history and architecture is spaces, carved out in stone, located beneath by the international Slow Food association, Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy a visit to the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a houses and cellars that, in some instances, are which studies, protects and disseminates the stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display among the area’s many tourist attractions beautifully preserved Gothic stronghold (www. real underground . These works of arts, agricultural and enogastromic traditions of of changing colours and softly rolling hills. are its numerous castles, including that of castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up carved and modeled by artists, were either countries worldwide Although geographically the Langhe, Roero Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century to the castle, take a break and treat yourself used to store bottles of wine, or as pantries, (www.agenziadipollenzo.com).

42 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle If the caller does not know where he or she Airport is, the operator will identify where the person Malpensa making the call is physically located and will pass Airport this information to the emergency services. OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city of the Alps from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Fast train network from Turin ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash www.italotreno.it. payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway T PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS available on the website). Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Airports One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12. each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: TORINO CASELLE “” (TRN) - Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open the Lingotto Fiere terminus. 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, to . 2 hours 55 min • : 3 hours 35 min • : Extending over a surface area of less than to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 4 hours 30 min • : 5 hours 30 min. minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is motorway junction. The junction is connected only pay €5 for your ticket. longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. www.wetaxi. depart from there. www.aeroportoditorino.it One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan • Connections to the airport Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm fee for night or holiday travel). rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. www.trenitalia.com. Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays).

44 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 45 BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

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VIA VENTIMIGLIA POLONIA V I A B U E N O S A I R E S Parrocchia VIA ARNALDO DA BRESCIA Madonna delle Rose VIA GIULIOEataly BIGLIERI Torino Cimitero Parco VIA PIETRO BAIARDI Ospedale Regina Margherita VIA ELLERO

VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI V I A G E N O V A

CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO Lingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE NIZZA C O R S O T R A IA N O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi ESSENTIALS

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Your personal travel assistant now in the The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the own car and staying in a hotel in the central city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Where Turin Magazine best hotels in Turin! car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. and departure only, filling out a form at the [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] Information desk T: 02 232323. hotel reception (ask your concierge for more www.milanomalpensa-airport.com information). • Connections to the airport In the same way it is possible to reach paid Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also the same parking lot with the request for transit from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. authorization no later than 11am. FREE FREE HOTSPOT www.aeroportoditorino.it Tourist Information CALLS INTERNET WIFI CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza Carlo of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. www. Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 aeroporto.cuneo.it 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. • Connections to the airport TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Piazza BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. T: 011 535181. connection from Turin with departure and arrival Open daily 9am-6pm. of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy HOTEL INFO CITY TICKETS & ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Special Tours & SERVICES GUIDE by EVENTS Getting around Turin CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public Hallmark red double-decker bus offering 3 routes: Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it Line A to explore the city center and the hill; Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the 800 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 village and the medieval fortress; Bike Sharing 0672000. Line B to access various sites including the GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the [TO]BIKE - the bike sharing [TO]Bike service offers Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri more than 140 stations scattered around the Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and 5 STARS 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; city from which to pick up and deposit rental Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di bikes. Various subscription options are available: Map E4-5 and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting annual €25, weekly €8 or daily €5. The use is free Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost point: at any bus stop. for rides of less than 30 minutes, even several Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the Assistance at Ticket Point City Sightseeing Torino times a day, after which the rate provided for by Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they (Piazza Castello corner of Via Po). 8 language • your Map F5 subscription formula is applied by scaling can be collected after 48 hours from the time of commentary. 4the STARS amount from the credit on the card. To loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci 4. Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). Acaccess Hotel Torino the service by Marriott you – need Via Bisalta, to be 11 •a Off credit Map card Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also Artholder. Hotel BostonFor more Torino information – Via A. Massena, and 70 other • Off typesMap Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus available. Artof Hotelsubscription Olympic – visitVia Verolengo, the website 19 • Off www..it Map . or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin BestGreen Western Line Crystal 800 548040. Palace Hotel Store – Via [TO]Bike Nizza, 11 Via • Map Santa E6 minutes on buses, trams or metro. BestChiara, Western 26/f. Hotel Open Luxor Mon-Fri – Corso 10am-7pm.Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 • Off Map – this ‘free floating’ system allows you Bestto book Western a bike Plus Hotelvia a Genovasmartphone – Via P. Sacchi, App, 14/Bidentify • Map E6 Concordthe position – Via G.L. of Lagrange, the bike 47 •nearest Map F6 to you and then TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD Dinastyleave itSuites in any – Piazza authorized Carlo Felice, parking 7 • Map E5area in the city. DiplomaticCost: 1 euro – Via deposit, Cernaia, 42 and • Map 0.30 C3 euros every 30 Doubleminutes. Tree Forby Hilton more Turin informations Lingotto – Via visit Nizza, 230 • Offwww.mobike.com. Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • OFO – Ofo, the world largest station-free bike Off Map sharing company, has launched in Turin. Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Operating across 180 cities worldwide, Ofo’s Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 mission is to provide a convenient, affordable Hoteland Principelow carbon di Torino method – Corso ofMoncalieri, travel. 85Users • Off canMap Lancasterdownload Torino an –App Corso on Filippo their Turati, smartphone 8 • Off Map to find J nearbyHotel – Via bikes Traves, and 40 • scan Off Mapthe QR code located on Nheither Collection the frameTorino Piazzaor smart Carlina lock – Piazzato unlock Carlo Emanuele them. II, 15The • Map company’s G5 yellow bikes have airless tyres Nh(to Torino prevent Centro punctures) – Corso Vittorio and Emanuele a 3-speed II, 104 gear • Map shift. B4 NhCosts: Torino 0.20 Lingotto euros Congress for the – first Via Nizza, half 262 hour; • Off 0.30Map euros Nhfor Torino the secondSanto Stefano half hour; – Via Porta 0.50 Palatina, euros 19for • Mapevery F2-3 30 Novotelminutes Torino thereafter Corso Giulio and Cesare 5 euros – Corso per Giulio day. Cesare, RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© 338/34For more • Off informationsMap visit www.ita.ofo.com This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map OBIKEStarhotels - oBike Majestic is a –global Corso Vittorio leader Emanuele in bike-sharing II, 54 • Map E6 free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and Thewithout Originals stations Hotel Turin offering Royal – an Corso innovative Regina Margherita, service the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also 249for • Offshort Map distance transport. The platform is offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on TownHousecurrently 70present – Via XX on Settembre, 3 different 70 • Map continents F3 for a Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Turintotal Palace of 26 Hotel states – Via and P. Sacchi, over 840 • Map cities E6 worldwide. For more information www.turismotorino.org VictoriaThe app, Torino which – Via N.can Costa, be 4 downloaded • Map F5 comfortably Villaon Savoiayour smartphone, – Corso Sicilia, 1, allows angolo Corso users Moncalieri to locate • Off and Map *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit. rent bicycles using a completely innovative www.manetmobile.com [email protected] 48 WHERE TURIN I FEBRUARY 2020