GOD SAVE QUEENS Wie Een Eerste Keer New York Aandoet, Holt Van Fifth Avenue Naar Times Square En Daarna Naar De Top Van De Empir

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GOD SAVE QUEENS Wie Een Eerste Keer New York Aandoet, Holt Van Fifth Avenue Naar Times Square En Daarna Naar De Top Van De Empir THE BRONX MANHATTAN QUEENS BROOKLYN Wie een eerste keer New York aandoet, holt van Fifth Avenue naar Times Square en daarna naar de top van de Empire State Building en terug – en is buiten adem lang voor de buitenwijken van de stad aan de beurt zijn. Een tip voor wie terugkeert: ga kijken in Queens, de smeltkroes met verrassende keukens, fijne musea en het grootste aantal GOD SAVE QUEENS koffiebars per inwoner.DOOR INGEBORG DELEYE, FOTO’S ANNELIE VANDENDAEL 40 41 GIDS MUSEUM OF THE MOVING IMAGE WERELDWIJK IN NEW YORK H Het is de tweede keer dat we in New gend. De beste Griekse dolmades waar de geschiedenis van tv, films PICKNICK AAN HET WATERFRONT York zijn en als het aan ons had eet je in Astoria, de wijk Flushing en games wordt uitgelicht. Op de gelegen, had Queens misschien nog heeft een Chinatown dat authen - plek waar Paramount Pictures tot niet eens op de planning gestaan. tieker is dan dat van Manhattan, de 1970 films en series inblikte, wordt Brooklyn, ja, wegens genoeg in series grootste Poolse gemeenschap van nu een verzameling van 130.000 gezien, of Staten Island, wegens de Verenigde Staten is met de Polski voorwerpen uit tv-series en films met de ferry. The Bronx, desnoods? skleps in Greenpoint neergestreken bewaard. Het masker van Mrs. Patrick van Rosendaal, Belg in New en wie goed zoekt, eet hier Tibetaans, Doubtfire, het originele Chewbacca- York en stadsgids met twee reis- Oezbekistaans of Guyanees. Queens masker, de make-up van Carrie boeken over de stad op zijn conto, telt meer dan honderd nationalitei- Bradshaw uit Sex and the city: klinkt dringt aan om hem te volgen naar ten, 160 verschillende talen, de helft banaal, maar een filmliefhebber Queens, want dat is prangender. De van de twee miljoen inwoners is in met het syndroom van Erik Van wijken van Queens bruisen, de mul- het buitenland geboren. Wereldreis in Looy blijft uren bij de etalagekasten ticulturele huisstijl doet deugd, de een wereldstad, dat is het concept. hangen. In de vaste tentoonstelling mensen zijn er echt. En het eten is er Behind the scenes wordt vooral het onovertroffen. Wij naar Queens, het GEEKS IN ASTORIA technische aspect van film uitgelegd, grootste stadsdistrict van New York Patrick van Rosendaal is gek op de maar check zeker ook de tijdelijke qua oppervlakte en qua diversiteit. buurt, temeer omdat er de voorbije expo’s op de website; in het verleden Wat onze kuiten na de wandeling – jaren ingrijpende renovaties zijn waren die er al over buitenaardse lees: race – in het kielzog van Patrick doorgevoerd, waarna boetiekhotels, wezens in de Men in black-films, de gepijnigd beamen. microbrouwerijtjes en rooftopbars fancultus rond Star trek en Robert De De wereld kent Queens als de hei - met een onnavolgbaar uitzicht Niro. mat van de US Open (Flushing op Manhattan geruisloos zijn Een paar honderd meter verder kun Meadows) en Joey Tribbiani uit gevolgd. Hij begint de ontdekking je niet naast de Kaufman Astoria Friends, maar het district staat ook van Queens in Astoria, in het Studios (34-12 36th St, www. bekend als de etnische smeltkroes noordwesten van het district. Het kaufmanastoria.com) kijken, ooit van de stad, met gemeenschap - Museum of the Moving Image (36- de grootste filmstudio van Amerika pen die zich elk organisch een deel 01 35th Ave, www.movingimage. waar Sesame Street, The Cosby show van de borough hebben toegeëi- us) is een smetteloos wit museum en Men in black zijn opgenomen. » 42 43 GIDS WERELDWIJK IN NEW YORK WIE ASTORIA VERLAAT MET EEN HONGERGEVOEL, IS EEN BODEMLOOS VAT Recenter werd er de gehypete basis van de ingrediëntenlijst niet is het Moma PS1 (22-25 Jackson Netflix-reeks Orange is the new black anders dan lekker zijn. Voor een licht Ave, www.momaps1.or). Het kleine nog ingeblikt. Geeks maken van een verteerbaar bijgerechtje (hotdogs/ broertje van het Moma exposeert trip naar Astoria bij voorkeur een hamburgers) kun je bij de buren van al sinds 1976 moderne kunst in een verlengd weekend. Dog House (37-06 30th Ave, www. voormalig schoolgebouw, vooral newyorkdoghouse.com) aanschuiven. werk van jonge talenten, en stelt OREO-RIJSTPUDDING Afsluiten met een cocktail kan bij atelierruimte voor kunstenaars Filmfreaks met honger reppen zich The Shady Lady (34-19 30th Ave, beschikbaar. De tuin ligt in deze naar Broadway, ‘Queens Boulevard’, www.facebook.com/The-Shady- tijd van het jaar verborgen onder waar alle fijne restaurantjes zijn Lady) of Sweet Afton (30-09 34th een artistiek sneeuwtapijt, maar gevestigd. Oorspronkelijk was de Street, www.sweetaftonbar.com). in de zomer zijn er op zaterdag wijk overwegend Grieks, maar Patrick gidst ons voor de beste openluchtconcerten. Ook een Patrick weet dat er de voorbije jaren Griekse schotels van de wijk nog aanrader is M. Wells Dinette , ook veel Brazilianen en Colombianen langs Ditmars Boulevard. Bij MP het bijbehorende restaurantje zijn neergestreken, wat de buurt een Taverna (31-29 Ditmars Boulevard) waar je luncht of dineert op de fijne latinovibe geeft. We vergapen en Taverna Kyclades (33-07 Ditmars schoolbanken. Via de bar Dutch ons op de kruising met Steinways Boulevard, www.tavernakyclades. Kills (27-24 Jackson Ave, www. aan jongetjes die taekwondoles vol- com) wordt al eens met een bord dutchkillsbar.com) en de Pink gen in de etalage van wat het midden gegooid. Wie Astoria verlaat met een Canary Bakery (311 Jackson Ave, houdt tussen een supermarkt en een hongergevoel, is een bodemloos vat. www.pinkcanarydesserts.com) - ‘voor sportschool: ook de Koreanen heb- als ik een prinsessenfeest voor mijn ben de weg naar Astoria gevonden. LONG ISLAND CITY dochter wil organiseren’ - gaat het Een buurt die mikt op de jonge hippe Van Astoria gidst Patrick ons richting Bierocracy (12-23 Jackson garde, telt anno 2017 minstens drie Long Island City in, de wijk met Ave, www.bierocracy.com), waar koffiebars per inwoner. Dat is in de brede lanen aan de East River. een stel jonge ondernemers een Queens niet anders. Kinship Coffee Met de metro op een kwartiertje biertent heeft geïnstalleerd in een (30-5 Steinway St, www.facebook. van Manhattan, en voor veel leuke industriële stijl, met prachtige com/kinshipcoffee) is een van de toeristen dus een budgetvriendelijk marmeren toog. Ze combineren tientallen kleine zaken waar je slow alternatief om te overnachten. onbekende bieren van lokale coffee of cold brew-koffie (extreem Court Square Diner (4530 23rd brouwerijtjes met internationale af te raden bij min vijf) drinkt, of St, www.courtsquarediner.com) is topbieren (Rodenbach! zelfs een barista-cursus volgt als een Amerikaanse jarenvijftigdiner Lindemans!), maar ook gerechten je een grondplan van de wijk in waar je 24/24 uur binnenwandelt met bier. De steamed beer mussels melkschuim wilt kunnen tekenen. voor ontbijt of avondmaal in schijnen een aanrader te zijn. Voor Gossip Coffee (3704 30th Ave, www. Amerikaanse stijl. Lees: Virginia de liefhebbers: Queens heeft in april gossipcoffee.com) zit op 30th Avenue, ham steak & two eggs of ‘Belgian’ zijn eigen Beer Week. Bij de buren nog zo’n straat waar Patrick de vibes waffles zoals we ze hier in de van Mu Ramen(1209 Jackson Ave, hip vindt en de koffie excellent. Vlaanders allemaal graag eten: ham, Queens, ramennyc.wixsite.com/ De Oreo-rijstpudding ziet er vrij bacon, sausage or Canadian bacon. popup) eet je iets lichter, maar dan LONG ISLAND CITY onappetijtelijk uit, maar kan op Het paradepaardje van de buurt ook wel met minder bier, natuurlijk. » 44 45 SWEATLEAF COFEE EAST RIVER FERRY GOSSIP COFFEE GIDS WERELDWIJK IN NEW YORK PICKNICK AAN HET WATER voor vier dollar per persoon. Wij Patrick troont ons nog bij Peter BIEROCRACY MOMA PS1 STEINWAY STREET Long Island City zou de lijst der top- springen eraf in Greenpoint: in the- Pan Donut & Pastry Shop adressen in Queens niet gehaald orie al de meest noordelijke wijk van (727 Manhattan Ave, www. hebben als er geen koffiebar te spot- Brooklyn, in de praktijk hangt er nog peterpandonuts.com) binnen, en ten viel: Sweatleaf Coffee (10-93 het multiculturele Queens-sfeertje. als bij toverslag zijn we weer in little Jackson Ave, www.sweetleafcoffee. America, met roze geglazuurde com) heeft een laptop room voor wie SALAMI IN GREENPOINT donuts en zoet gebak dat onze op schermpjes wil zitten turen, en Lena Dunham zette Greenpoint onderkoelde januarilijven een een dining room voor wie offline kof- als haar woonplaats op de kaart in oppepper geeft. De diensters komen fiedrinkt. Girls, argument nummer één voor recht uit een sprookjesboek in Langs de Queensboro Bridge gaat Amerikaanse media om de wijk tot hun roze uniformen, de gebakjes het langs L’Inizio Pizza Bar (47- het nieuwe Williamsburg uit te roe- zijn spotgoedkoop en spotlekker. 23 Vernon Blvd) – in de zomer een pen. Zo ver is het qua naamsbekend- Tomcats Barbershop (135 India St, heerlijk terras! – richting Foodcellar heid en populariteit vandaag nog www.tomcatsbarbershop.com) is nog Market (4-85 47th Rd, www.foodcel- niet, al hebben we er genoeg meisjes zo’n Amerikaans getint bastion in de larandco.com), een supermarkt met op vintage racefietsen en rolschaat- wijk, waar Amerikaanse haarstijlen een grote versafdeling. Sprokkel hier sen gespot om alle figurantenrollen met vetkuiven en bakkebaarden met een verse picknick bij elkaar en speel in Dunhams laatste seizoen te vul- Amerikaanse motorfietsen worden die naar binnen aan het Waterfront. len. gecombineerd. Dat van Long Island City is uitgerust In Greenpoint woont de grootste Adressen om de multiculti-trip met met openbare barbecues en speel- Poolse gemeenschap van Amerika: een cocktail af te sluiten: Duke’s POOLSE SLAGER KINSHIP COFFEE TOMCATS BARBERSHOP tuintjes, en een obligatoir zicht op de het zijn de afstammelingen van Liquor Box (170 Franklin St, www.
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