POWER Pisco makes an impression on American taste buds By Jeffery Lindenmuth Pisco

t seems that every classic has been resuscitated. From martinis and Manhattans to Sidecars and Fizzes, there’s little left to tempt the taste Ibuds of consumers seeking entirely new experiences. So, if you’re really look- ing to make an impression, you’ll have to dig deeper, maybe all the way back to mid-nineteenth century , when revelers in the thriving city con- sumed made with a largely forgotten spirit called Pisco.

What is it? In addition, Peruvian Pisco be and finally, the white spirit produced there Pisco means two very different things to two made from recently fermented from and destined to sail to San Francisco. somewhat rival neighbors: the South one or more of the approved grape varieties. American nations of and . Both And, it holds the unique distinction among Start with the Classics nations produce Pisco, and both are, in the distilled spirits of being distilled to proof, According to Diego Loret de Mola, presi- broadest sense, unaged made by meaning the distiller has to skillfully create a dent of BevMax International Inc., a spir- fermenting and distilling grapes. But, the spirit of 38% to 46% alcohol to which no its consulting company, and an enthusias- results could not be more different. water can be added. Virtually every other tic Pisco ambassador, the classic Pisco Chilean Pisco, like the popular spirit has water added to reach a nice, round- cocktails offer and consumers brand Capel, is made in a numbered proof of 70, 80, or maybe 86. the perfect gateway to his beloved home through continuous much It’s understandable that Peru should country. “Traditionally, a cocktail makes like and other neutral spirits. It is take Pisco so seriously. Lexicographers the spirit,” says Loret de Mola. “The mar- then aged in oak . Peruvian Pisco researching the word “pisco” have deter- garita made , which had been is made in copper pot stills, or occasion- mined that it comes from an indigenous around for hundreds of years. A cocktail ally more traditional “flaca” in a batch Peruvian word meaning “bird.” With the can make it easier to appreciate the spirit. process like . It is rested a mini- large number of seabirds inhabiting the And we have the as a flagship, mum of three months, but is not permit- southern coastal valley of Peru, the word invented around 1915. And, the Pisco ted to be aged in oak. soon lent itself to a river, a town, a port Punch even preceded that.” PISCO RECIPES These cocktails are steeped in history and are as easy to make as they are to enjoy. They provide the perfect talking points to add to any cocktail list.

Pisco Punch Pisco Sour The Pisco Punch is associated with Few recipes could be simpler and more Pisco alambic copper pots the Bank Exchange Saloon at the cor- refreshing than a classic sour, especial- ner of Montgomery and Washington ly in a ratio of 2:1:1. The egg white Streets in San Francisco. It was gives a beautiful texture and frothiness refined over a succession of bartenders to the drink, but if you are serving culminating with Duncan Nichol who customers you may choose to avoid it never divulged the actual recipe. Even or use pasteur- the death of Nichol in 1926 and the ized egg whites. efforts of Prohibition did not quench This drink, the public’s thirst for this drink, and invented by Choosing a Pisco There are still relatively few widely variations of it remained popular into the American available in the United States. In both the the 1970s. Victor Morris, U.K. and the U.S., the spirit has not exceed- (Morris , ed 20,000 9-liter cases, according to Loret de -Peru, Mola. Part of his challenge with Pisco edu- The Classic Recipe 1915-1933) cation is making bartenders aware of the This classic remains the potential of these drinks, and to educate recipe was pre- most popular their customers. pared in the drink in Peru today. In Chile, Pisco is “The consumer, in general, is blind to the Peruvian more commonly enjoyed in the differences among Piscos. And most bars that restaurant , a long drink of Pisco and cola. Malabar in Peru are new to Pisco only think to buy the cheap- where Jose Classic Pisco Sour est one and don’t realize the differences in the Antonio 2 oz Pisco processes. The Peruvian Pisco reflects its cre- Schiaffino 1 oz fresh lime ation in a copper pot versus a continuous still researched 1 oz simple in Chile. That alone is a huge differentiation,” Duncan 1 tsp pasteurized egg white says Loret de Mola. Nichol’s recipe Dash Angostura bitters Without viewing the actual bottle, it can for many years be difficult to distinguish which country a Combine all ingredients in a shaker with and arrived to a Pisco is from. However, the brands with the ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a very close approximation of the classic largest U.S. distribution are Capel from Chile, chilled . Top with a dash flavor profile of the 1800s: and the premium BarSol from Bodega San of bitters. Isidro Distillery in Peru. Within Peruvian 1 1/2 oz Pisco Pisco, there is a vast range of style and flavor 1 oz pineapple syrup made possible by careful regulation of the 3/4 oz fresh lime Classic Pisco Blast types of grapes used and traditional blending 1 1/2 oz water To make his award-winning “Pisco techniques. The flavor profiles can range from Blast”, Gaston Martinez bold and phenolic with chocolate, smoke and Combine all ingredients in a shaker combines: rubber to delicate floral and fruity, or highly with ice. Shake vigorously and strain aromatic and confectionary depending on the into a chilled flute. Garnish with a 1 1/2 oz Pisco grapes and the method of production. pineapple wedge and a 3/4 oz Marie Brizard Peach Knowing just a little nomenclature can cherry. 1/2 oz yuzu juice help you pinpoint one or more Peruvian 3/4 oz raspberry coulis Pineapple syrup Piscos to experiment with, offering even more 2 1/2 oz fresh 1 pineapple, peeled & cut into 1” options and variations on the classic cocktails sour mix chunks for customers. 2 lbs granulated The drink is The first two words to look for on a 1 1/2 pints of water shaken with Peruvian Pisco are “puro,” which indicates the ice and can be Pisco made from a single grape (think varietal Bring all ingredients to a boil until served up or ) or “acholado,” which indicates the pineapple begins to soften. Allow to as a long drink. Pisco is a house blend of multiple grapes. cool for 24 hours. Remove pineapple and strain through a chinois. Within puro, the grapes are broadly cat- petition held in Lima in egorized as aromatic, or non-aromatic. The August 2006. Martinez aromatic grapes tend to be white or lighter showed his confidence purple and impart the Pisco with their dis- with the spirit by proffer- tinctive floral and fruit aromas. ing a Pisco cocktail on the Peruvian’s home turf. Martinez was attract- ed to Pisco as a spirit that The aromatic The non-aro- offers personality and ver- grapes include: matic grapes, satility. “Vodka is very less overt in versatile because it has no Italia L-R: Jorge Picasso (Bodega Vista Alegre - Pisco Sol de Ica), Carlos Ferreyros (Bodega San Isidro - Barsol their aroma and flavor. You put vodka in a Mustcatel Pisco), Diego Loret de Mola (Bevmax International, Inc.), and Jeffery Lindenmuth (writer) learning about flavor, include: drink with Ocean Spray Torontel pisco and enjoying a Pisco Sour (Torrontes) Negra Corriente or other and it’s the Albilla Quebranta Mollar Ubina Pisco offers personality and

A New for versatility, and its flavor is not as Top ‘Tenders strong as a brown spirit or tequila.” While Pisco certainly has the potential to capitalize on the ongoing fervor for things — Gaston Martinez, general manager latin, riding the crest of rum and cachaca, it is also taking off in cities that are cocktail at Nora’s Cuisine in Las Vegas strongholds. “It’s the other white spirit for cocktail making,” says Loret de Mola. “It’s big in New York, Miami, Washington DC, sive palette of flavors, including lychee, San Francisco, and through- same drink but with alcohol. blackberry, raspberry, blood orange, mint Gaston Martinez out New Jersey. But it also With Pisco, you have alcohol and cilantro, resulting in over 20 original belongs in Dallas, Boston, content but also a distinct fla- cocktails based on the Peruvian spirit. Nashville, Seattle, Chicago vor. Yet the flavor is not as According to Martinez, the classic Pisco and anywhere great cocktail strong as a brown spirit, or even Sour outsells other drinks 10 to 1, at Nora’s mixing is going on.” tequila. Pisco is the best of both Cuisine, but for those looking to expand Indeed, Pisco has found worlds. You don’t change the their list he offers some advice: “The non- fans among some of America’s color or change the flavor too aromatics, and acholado, are more versatile. top bartenders, like Gaston much, but it makes distinctive You’re getting closer to a vodka, so you Martinez, general manager at drinks,” says Martinez. might want to start non-aromatic and then Nora’s Cuisine in Las Vegas, Martinez stumbled on the move on,” says Martinez. “I, on the other who demonstrated his mixo- bright combination of yuzu and hand, like the aromatic. To some degree, it’s logical prowess by taking top honors at the Pisco when he was inspired by tasting the a personal preference. But I like the chal- Pan-American Cocktail Competition, an bold citrus fruit while dining at Nobu. lenge, and I want people to smell and taste International Bartenders Association com- However, he also marries Pisco to an expan- this beautiful spirit.” the pisco process